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TE TILEX
VALUE CHAIN
Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707
Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2015-17 published on 5th of every month,TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai
Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar- 75, posting date 17/18 of month
September 2016 Volume 4 Issue 9 Pages 44
Market Report : Cotton / Yarn/ Surat/ Apparel Index
Interview : Amarjothi & Raymond
Article : Strategy Management / Business of Hygiene products
Technical Article: Effects of different weaves on thermal resistance
properties shirting cotton fabric
Knitting : the most innovative segment
è Fancy Yarn
è Grindle Yarn
è Magic Grindle Duel
è 100% Viscose Fibre Yarn
è 100% Polyester Fibre Yarn
è 100% Glow Fibre Yarn
è Modal
è Slub Yarn
è Magic Grindle Injection
è Glow Neps Yarn
è PP Galaxy
è Solid Dual Injection
è Organic Cotton
è Bamboo
è Neps Yarn
è Magic Grindle Streak
è Lurex Glittering
è Melange Injection
è Magic Melange Streak
è Blended Cotton
è ensile
Range of Yarn Products
Corporate Office:
Amarjothi House
157, Kumaran Road
Tirupur 641601
TN, India
T +91 421 4311600
F +91 421 4326694
info@amarjothi.net
www.amarjothi.net
Depot:
15, Kumaran Complex
Kumaran Road
Tirupur 641601
TN, India
T +91 421 2201516
& +91 421 2206466
F +91 421 2200389
depo@amarjothi.net
Mills:
Gobi Main Road
Pudhusuripalayam
Nambiyur 638458
TN, India
T +91 4285 267201
& +91 4285 267301
F +91 4285 267565
mill@amarjothi.net
Dyeing Unit:
No. E 7, 8 & 9
SIPCOT
Perundurai 638052
Erode Dist.
TN, India
T +91 4294 234093
F +91 4294 234092
dyeing@amarjothi.net
6 September 2016www.textilevaluechain.com
EDITORIAL
Ms. Jigna Shah
Editor & Publisher
All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of
any of the content from this issue is prohibited
without explicit written permission of the
publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure
and present factual and accurate information.
The views expressed in the articles published in
this magazine are that of the respective authors
and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile
Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely
errors that might occur or any steps taken
based in the information provided herewith.
Registered Office
Innovative Media and Information Co.
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Email: info@textilevaluechain.com
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Web: www.textilevaluechain.com
Owner, Publisher, Printer &
Editor
Ms. Jigna Shah
Printed & Processed by her at,
Impression Graphics,
Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate,
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We have honoured that Indian Textile Industry is in the hands of 2 dynamic Women. First one is Ex- TV
Personality, Textile Minister Mrs. Smriti Irani; second one is Economic Doctorate Textile Commissioner Dr.
Kavita Gupta. Both are non textile professionals, but determined to change the industry by their pres-
ence.
Dr. Kavita Gupta mentioned in one of the meeting that Mrs. Smriti Irani considered TRA (Textile Re-
search Associations) & COE (Centre of Excellence for Technical Textiles) is not up to the international
standard. Running TRA is a challenge due to lack of financial support. But she stated that there was no
constraint for funds to support the sector, she said of the Rs 9 crore released out of the allocated Rs 13.5
crore to BTRA’s Centre of Excellence for Geotech & had utilised only Rs 3.01 crore. While South India Tex-
tile Research (SITRA) has utilised Rs 9.72 crore of the released fund of Rs 11.43 crore, Ahmedabad Textile
Industry Research Association (ATIRA) has kept pending Rs 2.46 crore of the release amount of Rs 22.99
crore. Describing technical textiles as the future of the industry, she said the market size is projected to
increase from Rs 75,925 crore in 2012-13 to Rs 1,58,540 crore in 2016-17, with a growth rate of 20 per cent
year-on-year.
Today, there are mix emotions in the industry. Any Industry developed & run by Manufacturer/Export-
ers, Traders/ Importer, Retailers, Association of the value chain. But our industry looks so much dark for
new entrants like Students, investors, banks, credit rating agencies, and consultants. They feel insecure &
de-motivated to enter, though there is no entry barrier.
Textile industry will exist forever till the man kind alive in earth. There may be ups and down, but Fash-
ion & glamour can never alter any technology products. Classic Example of ZARA Founder Mr. Amancio
Ortega, has beaten Mr. Bill Gates Founder of Microsoft to become world’s richest person.
We should Stay Positive and Think more productive, innovative...!!
Wish you a very Happy Festival Season..!!!
Textile Economy; Stay Positive...!
Contact:
Suresh Saraf+91 9322 50 4449 / +91 9322 10 4449 | Nayan Saraf - +91 7498 88 1400
Office Landline - 91-22-6002 0119 /
Email : sureshsaraf2000@yahoo.co.in | info@shreebalajisynfabs.com
sureshsaraf@shreebalajisynfabs.com | Website : www.shreebalajisynfabs.com
Address: Room No.-17, Ground Floor, 342 Kalbadevi Road, Mumbai- 400002
SKBS
SHREE BALAJI SYNFABSSHREE BALAJI SYNFABSSHREE BALAJI SYNFABS
Advt.
9699 25 8834
8 September 2016www.textilevaluechain.com
EDITORIAL TEAM
Editor & Publisher
Ms. Jigna Shah
Consulting Editor
Mr. Avinash Mayekar
Graphic Designer
Mr. Anant A. Jogale
INDUSTRY
Mr. Devchand Chheda
City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group)
Mr. Manohar Samuel
President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries
Dr. M. K. Talukdar
VP, Kusumgar Corporates
Mr. Shailendra Pandey
VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon
Mr. Ajay Sharma
GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
Mr. B.V. Doctor
HOD knitting, SASMIRA
Dr. Ela Dedhia
Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College
Dr. Mangesh D. Teli
Professor, Dean ICT
Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay
Principal Scientist & Head MPD
Dr. Rajan Nachane
Retired Scientist, CIRCOT
CONSULTANT / ASSOCIATION
Mr. Shivram Krishnan
Senior Textile Advisor
Mr. G. Benerjee
Management & Industrial Consultant
Mr. Uttam Jain
Director PDEXCIL; VP of Hindustan Chamber of Commerce
Mr. Shiv Kanodia
Sec General, Bharat Merchant Chamber
Mr. N.D. Mhatre
Dy. Director, ITAMMA
September 2016 ISSUE
CONTENT
Advertiser Index
NEWS
9- Madhu Jain : Craft Revivalist & Textile Conservationist
10- Stanford Scientist develop skin line fabric
COVER STORY
11- Skill Development – Need of an hour for Tirupur Knitting
hub by Mr. Avinash Mayekar
12- Review of Polyester Yarn Mark by Mr. Saurabh Agarwal
14- Effects of different weaves on thermal resistance proper-
ties shirting cotton fabric by DKTE professor
INTERVIEWS
17- Interview with Mr. Rajan Premchandar, MD of Amarjothi
Spinning Mills Ltd.
18- Interview with Mr. Ram Bhatnagar , VP & Head of Sales &
Distribution , Raymond Limited.
ARTICLE
19- Strategic Management: The Art, The science & Craft of
Business by Mr. Rushin Vadhani
21- Business of Hygiene products in India by Textile Consult-
ants
EVENT REPORT
24- TMMA : Export Excellence and R&D Awards 2015-2016
26- Dollar Business : Business Power Series Conclave 2016-17
29- YFA : Denim Zone and China Pavilion to be highlighted
on show
MARKET REPORT
27- Cotton Report
28- Surat Report
30- Yarn Report
34- CMAI Apparel Index
33- SHOW CALENDAR
Back Page : Raymond
Back Inside : RSWM
Front Inside : Raysil
Page 3 : Amarjothi
Page 4: Intex 2016
Page 5 : SGS Innovation
Page 7 : SKBS
Page 10 : Bhatia Exports
Page 37 : Rieter
Page 38 : Sanjay Plastic
Page 39 : Varnita Tex
Page 40: Non Woven
Tech Asia
Page 41 : Amith Garment
& Vora Associates
Page 42 : YFA
9September 2016 www.textilevaluechain.com
NEWS
Thehandloomssector,whichrepresents
the rich diversity of India’s 2,000-year-old
textiles tradition, has a hands-on advocate
in Craft Revivalist and Textile Conservation-
ist Madhu Jain, designer extraordinaire,
whose name is synonymous with swadeshi.
Madhu is a doyen in the Indian crafts sector,
evident from her many partnerships over
the years with Government of India’s Min-
istry of Textiles.
Crafts call for sustained effort. From the
time she launched her label in 1987, Madhu
has worked only with natural fibres that are
quintessentially Indian in ethos and execu-
tion. This gravitation towards traditional,
organic textiles is a reflection of her per-
sonal sensibility, and she has carved a niche
for herself as the country’s most respected
craft and textile revivalist, whose fine crea-
tions and revival of rare and extinct motifs
and textiles are embedded in strong Indian
roots.
Updating Indian Textiles
Madhu has experimented extensively
with textiles and continues to innovate to
craft unique blends that are characteristical-
ly true to her “made-in-India” natural fibres
label. After travelling extensively through
rural India to meet master craftsmen and
weavers, Madhu’s research led her to de-
velop textiles in distinctive combinations of
two different weaving traditions from two
states to create new textiles, high on quality
and design. This seamless blending is Mad-
hu’s speciality, making her a forerunner in
the indigenous traditional weaves industry.
Madhu has experimented with Odi-
sha’s Ikkat weave, Andhra Pradesh’s Kal-
amkari craft, Assamese Mekhla Chaddar,
and Andhra Uppada. In keeping with her
passion for eco-friendly textiles, she was in-
strumental in introducing bamboo fibre as
an alternative textile in India. Additionally,
she has collaborated with several NGOs in
India and Bangladesh that work with rural
artisans and local weavers. Her innovations
have resulted in a resurgence of interest in
Indian’s traditional textiles.
Providing Livelihoods to Artisans
Increasingly, factory-produced textiles
are inundating the market and fast overtak-
ing the natural fibres sector, forcing artisan
communities into outmigration in search of
other work options. Pained to see the denu-
dation of India’s traditional crafts markets,
Madhu felt an urgent need to ensure these
traditions would not languish and slowly die
out.
Madhu realised that for the traditional
natural textiles industry to survive and re-
tain its supremacy in urban markets, the
key was to contemporise textiles while at
the same time, being true to tradition. This
meant relying on the dextrous skills of In-
dia’s master weavers and craftsmen whose
craft has been handed down to them gen-
erationally. In doing so, she sources artisans
who were once famous for their crafts and
who still practice them. Madhu’s work has
given a much-needed boost to this industry,
providing employment to over 500 master
weavers and craftsmen across India.
After Madhu used bamboo textile as a
base for the Kalamkari “Tree of Knowledge”
for the 2010 Commonwealth Games Open-
ing Ceremony, the Kalamkari sector has wit-
nessed a 500% growth. Her exceptional con-
tribution to the crafts of Andhra Pradesh
is “figurative” Kalamkari, accomplished by
incorporating innovative features to the
traditional craft by using influences such as
Raja Ravi Verma’s paintings. Madhu’s twist
in design sensibility has given a new lease of
life to this craft form.
Popularising Craft by using Fashion as a
Platform
To preserve India’s endangered crafts
heritage, the obvious solution is to ensure
markets. Madhu has succeeded in increas-
ing awareness around handcrafted textiles
and craft-based clothes. To reach out to a
larger, national and international audience,
she uses the platform of fashion to show-
case India’s heritage, and to assure urban
markets for rural weavers.
Next Steps
Having worked with various govern-
ment and NGOs in development, design,
and marketing of indigenous textiles and
crafts, Madhu aims to set up a chain of sup-
port to ensure steady volumes of work to
India’s artisans, independent of season or
the vagaries of fashion.
Highly regarded as a handlooms special-
ist whose life quest is revitalising and rein-
vigorating dying crafts, Madhu has impact-
ed the sector by giving it a fresh lease of life.
Patrons
Government of India; J&K Govern-
ment; Ministry of Textiles; Sonal Mansingh;
Nita Ambani; Rani Mukerji; Vandana Lu-
thra; Maneka Gandhi; Waheeda Rehman;
Raveena Tandon; Juhi Chawla; Milind So-
man; Neelam Pratap Rudy; Princess Maha Al
Sauduri of Saudi Arabia; Mariam Fayesalle,
First Lady of Senegal.
Major Contributions to the Handlooms Sec-
tor, Including Awards and Memberships
§ 1987: Launched Madhu Jain label to
revive the handlooms sector.
§ 1987: Created a collection blending
Baluchari of West Bengal with Kalakshetra
motifs of Tamil Nadu.
§ 1996: Revived folk art Nakshi Kantha in
collaboration with BRAC (Bangladesh), one
of the largest NGOs in the world.
§ 1996: Reintroduced the legendary
Dhaka Muslin, which had disappeared from
India after partition.
§ 1997: At Miss World Pageant show-
cased Nakshi Kantha and Dhaka Muslin
craft, winning international acclaim.
§ 2000: Associate Designer Member,
Fashion Design Council of India.
§ 2003: Launched “Projekt M” with
Milind Soman to catapult Indian textiles
onto the world map.
§ 2003: In tandem with Indian Textiles
Ministry, Madhu introduced bamboo as an
alternative, eco-friendly textile.
§ 2003: Showcased a Kalamkari collec-
tion at Singapore Fashion Week.
§ Feb 2004: At 7th World Bamboo Con-
gress New Delhi, formally introduced bam-
boo-based textiles into India.
§ 2005: Embarked on “Kashmir Project”
with J&K government to restore employ-
ment lifelines to local artisans by sourcing,
developing, marketing and popularising
Kashmiri handicrafts in India and abroad
through museums. Dr Karan Singh’s per-
sonal collection in Amar Mahal museum
provided critical reference points. For the
“Kashmir Project” Madhu mixed traditional
and contemporary design in Kashmiri handi-
crafts, presenting this to leading museums
in New York—Metropolitan Museum, Mu-
seum of Arts and Design, American Museum
of Natural History, Rubin Museum of Art.
§ 2005: Published “The Living Art and
Madhu Jain: Craft Revivalist and Textile Conservationist
10 September 2016www.textilevaluechain.com
Craft Tradition of Jammu and Kashmir”, a
book that charts the history of Kashmiri
crafts and details its myriad crafts.
§ 2007 Member, Culture Committee,
South Asia Foundation, which promotes
better understanding between SAARC na-
tions through crafts and culture.
§ 2008: Entrepreneured a special show-
ing of Great Living Traditions of Indian
Weaves and Exquisite Craftsmanship with
especial focus on the sari.
§ May 2008: Invited by J&K government
to present a paper on “A Journey into the
Living Arts and Crafts of J&K”, at South Asia
Foundation Summit, Srinagar.
§ Jan 2009: Official Style and Design
partner, Miss India Worldwide 2009, to pro-
mote the traditional sari.
§ 2009: Nominated for “Marie Claire
Fashion Award” for contribution to Indian
crafts
§ April 2009: Awarded “25 Women of
Excellence” FICCI FLO award in recognition
of excellence in field of creative arts.
§ 2010: Designed a carpet for People for
Animals fundraiser.
§ Oct 2010: In recognition of her excel-
lence in revitalising the crafts sector, for the
Opening Ceremony of the Commonwealth
Games 2010, was given the rare honour
of crafting an installation in the “Fabric
of India” segment. Using the skills of 300
weavers, 500 craftsmen and 200 hand em-
broidery artisans, Madhu designed and ex-
ecuted a giant 115-feet eco-friendly craft in-
stallation using bamboo fibre and Kalamkari
craft technique.
§ 2011: Restored a rare khadi sari woven
in prison in 1941 by Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru.
§ October 2012: In collaboration with Je-
hangir Art Gallery (Mumbai) and Ensemble
boutique, Madhu curated a retrospective
of 25 years of her contribution to reviving
crafts.
§ 2013: Curated a restrospective of mu-
seum-quality textiles and craft at Ogaan,
New Delhi.
§ 2015: Curated an exhibition, Rare Tex-
tiles of Gujarat, in New Delhi, which was in-
augurated by Smt. Menaka Gandhi, Union
Cabinet Minister for Women & Child Devel-
opment.
A team of multidisciplinary researchers
at Stanford University has developed skin-
like fabric material that cools the body more
efficiently.
In today’s Science journal, the research-
ers from Stanford report that they used na-
noporous polyethylene to develop a textile
material which aides radiative cooling while
maintaining breathability, wicking and nec-
essary mechanical strength.
According to the report in Science, the
researchers have also devised an instrument
to simulate skin temperature. The use of
nanoporous polyethylene fabric resulted in
the lowering of skin temperature by about
2.7 degree centigrade when compared with
another commonly used next-to-skin fabric.
According to Yi Cui, an associate profes-
sor of materials science at Stanford and the
lead author of the study, the fabric effec-
tively cools the person, which makes cool-
ing the building unnecessary thereby saving
energy.
Nanoporous plastic textile transports
the body heat as infrared rays due to the
nanostructured polyethylene. Researchers
modified the polyethylene material that is
commonly used in battery development
which enables it to be opaque to visible
light but transparent to infrared rays so that
the heat can be dissipated.
According to Professor Shanhui Fan,
professor of electrical engineering at Stan-
ford, who co-authored the study, this re-
search can lead to the development of new
materials that can trap or let go infrared
radiations.
The research is multidisciplinary one
involving photonics, nanotechnology and
chemistry. Indeed, it shows that new de-
velopments in advanced textiles can come
from schools that are nontraditional textile
strongholds, reflecting the nature of the
next phase of textile research and develop-
ment.
Stanford Scientists Develop Skin Line Fabric
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
NEWS
BHATIA EXPORTS
Mr. Rajesh Bhatia
Address : 389, Trichy Main road, Gugai, Salem : 6, Tamilnadu, India.
Landline : +91-427-2465479 / +91-427-2465489
Mobile No : +91-98946-46789
Email : bhatiaexports@gmail.com
Advt.
Manufacturer of all types of yarn dyed woven fabrics in 100% Coton
& PV Rayon, Melange & specialised of dobby & Fancy yarns.
11September 2016 www.textilevaluechain.com
Skill Development – Need of an hour for Tirupur
Knitting Hub’
Introduction
Indian knitwear segment is witnessing tremendous growth.
India has more than 65% young population below the age of 35 &
most of the young population prefers to wear casual wear like t-
shirts & track pants on day to day basis. In fact senior citizens seem
to be inclined more towards western casual wear for morning walk,
reason being the comfort & flexibility offered by knitted garments
compared to woven ones. Already there is huge demand for knit-
ted garments in export market. So, knitted garments forms major
chunk in domestic as well as export market.
Tirupur,is one the major garment clusters in India providing di-
rect & indirect employment to more than 3 lakhs people. Out of In-
dia’s total cotton knitwear exports earning 50%comes from Tirupur
itself. The demands for knitted garments from domestic & interna-
tional markets will be growing multi folds in coming future. So, in
order to meet these ever growing demands, Tirupur industry has to
be revived. The major hurdle in growth of Tirupur cluster is lack of
availability of technically qualified managerial level manpower like
professional knitting master, merchandisers and marketing per-
sonnel for selling in the international market/designers etc.
Skills gap analysis:
In order to achieve higher control on their target market, global
competition andcustomised niche markets; the managers in Tiru-
pur Knitwear units need to motivate people, create new direction,
generate new opportunities. They have to combine creativity, im-
agination, intellect and sensitivity towards needs of new breed
of employees. The strengths of these people can be fully utilized
only through their involvement and co-operation which need ef-
fective training and development techniques. The Knitwear unit
managers need to remain self-motivated. Increased responsibility,
fair recognition, due appreciation and rewards for beyond normal
efforts are great motivators. Current managers are under greater
scrutiny. Their model behaviour can create the spirit of excellence.
They have to set personal examples for others to follow. Effective
communication is the key to effectiveness of actions. It helps to
obtain better support and willing involvement of team members.
It is also vital in order to ensure proper appreciation of actions and
constraints by the top management; thereby garnering support.
Managing people is an art and lending a sincere hearing solves even
the most difficult of problems. The managers are responsible both
for discovering and defining their role as well as discharging the
same. The bottom line thus is that the onus of fine tuning between
the old and new management philosophies lies on the managers of
today by which they can enhance productivity and motivation. The
managerial skill gap analysis would provide solutions to overcome
the prevailing skill gap, so it is important to study the possibilities
of how the prevailing skills gap could be effectively narrowed. The
detailed study will help in identification of various modes of train-
ing that could be adopted.This would lead to empowering the or-
ganizations with a strong skilled workforce, enabling them to im-
prove on their productivity. This in turn would enable the knitwear
exports to take up a better share in the global market, thus lending
an extra avenue to boost our Indian economy.
Skill development
The basic skills for managing a small team can be viewed in
three categories i.e. organization, leadership, and communication.
Of these three, leadership is the hardest skill to acquire. Without
detracting from the main work, managers should stimulate their
teams with changes of focus. This includes drives for specific qual-
ity improvements, mission statements, team-building activities,
and delegated authority, though decisions must be made on how
often to raise excitement about new issues. One of the most cited
characteristics of successful managers is vision. For managers, vi-
sion is a vivid idea of what the future should be. The best managers
are those who recognize problems, seize opportunities, and create
their own future.
Many organizations across the countries have recognized that
training is a strategic priority rather than a tactical response, which
may be used as a catalyst for change and also as an aid to give an
organization a competitive edge. Both the availability of required
quality and quantity of Human Resource (HR), maintenance of
such employment through training, as well as the HR’s strategic re-
sponses to the worldwide changes ultimately determine the com-
petitive strength of afirm within a nation or across the countries.
Hence organizations in today’s world need to follow the principle
“innovation-training-development-action-sustainable growth”
with true concern for the meaningful development.
Suggestions
• Communication skill: There is significant gap in the managerial
communication skills inTirupur knitwear industry. Hence it is
needed to improve the communication skills of the manger to
improve their performance.
• Greater Management Support and Commitment: In today’s
competitive environment, the management of the knitwear
companies should give serious attention and effort towards
training the managers in the organization. The top management
has to be committed to talent development and they must take
a long term approach.
• Improved Budgets for Training and Development: Without suf-
ficient resources any effort to improve managerial talent will
be stifled. Thus return on investment and cost benefit analysis
should be done to clearly demonstrate that the payback on such
initiatives will be quick and significant.
• Allocate Better Time Necessary to Train and Develop
Managers:Knitwear organizations are exceptionally busy places
and the urgent issue can push put theimportant issue. Any or-
ganization wanting to develop the top management should be
willing to allocate time in addition to financial resources. Mana-
gerial skill development takes time on the job and off the job.
This has to be budgeted and allocated properly.
• Assess Individual Management Competency: While organiza-
tional needs assessment are important for identifying specific
skill sets individual needs assessments are important for deter-
mining the competencies of individual managers.Formal assess-
Shri Avinash Mayekar
MD, Suvin Advisor Pvt. Ltd.
COVER STORY
12 September 2016www.textilevaluechain.com
ments, 360 degree Feedback tools and self-assessment are just
a few tools that can be used to determine the managerial tal-
ents necessary to succeed.
• Each Knitwear Company Should Have Clear Management Skill
Sets Defined
Every organization has its own skill sets that they deem most
important for success. Effective needs assessment can be used to
identify these skill sets that can become the basis for establishing
clearly defined learning objectives and processes to acquire these
specific skills.
Government Initiatives:
Government approved aRs 6,000 crore special package for
textiles & apparel sector to create one crore new jobs in 3 years,
attracting investments of $11 billion and generating $30 billion in
exports. The measures approved include additional incentives for
duty drawback scheme for garments, flexibility in labour laws to
increase productivity as well as tax and production incentives for
job creation in garment manufacturing. The package breaks new
ground in moving from input to outcome based incentives by in-
creasing subsidy under Amended-TUFS from 15% to 25% for the gar-
ment sector as a boost to employment generation.
The Government of India also launched the National Skill Cer-
tification & Monetary Reward Scheme to encourage skill develop-
ment for youth by providing monetary rewards for successful com-
pletion of approved training programs. The scheme will benefit 10
lakh youth at an approximate total cost of ₹ 1,000 Crores with an
average monetary reward of ₹ 10,000
About us
With the continuous efforts to serve Textile Industry, Suvin has
smartly identified the need of textile industry for skilled manpower
to cater to the global markets & ventured into Suvin HR Solutions
LLP. We will be offering services like development of HR processes,
people development & leadership development. Our unique pro-
grams will benefit organisations as well as individuals to grow. Our
expert team brings more than 25 years of industry experience in
conducting training programs. They will develop human resource
to meet business challenges with effective soft skill development
programs. We are all set to fulfill the demands of Indian Textile In-
dustry for good human resource & training programs
COVER STORY
Review on Polyester Yarn Mark
History Of Polyester
The History of POLYESTER” is quite interesting, which I
thought needs to be pointed out before reviewing the Industry as
a whole. Polyester, as a specific material, most commonly refers to
a type called PET (polyethylene terephthalate) Polyesters include
naturally occurring chemicals, such as in the cutin of plant cuticles,
as well as synthetics through step-growth polymerization such as
polybutyrate.
Natural polyesters and a few synthetic ones are biodegrad-
able, but most synthetic polyesters are not. Polyester is used very
widely in clothing. Depending on the chemical structure, polyester
can be a Thermoplastic or Thermoset. There are also polyester res-
ins cured by hardeners. However, the most common polyesters are
Thermoplastics.
Polyester yarn is not a very old yarn as compared to conven-
tional yarn like Cotton or woollen Yarn, which are much older yarns
available in the market.
Polyester cloth was invented by British scientists John Whin-
field and James Dickson in 1941 in England. In 1945, afterWorld War
II was over, the United States Company DuPont bought the right to
make polyester and by 1950, a factory in Delaware was beginning
to manufacture it.
In 1960, in India, it was Mr. DhirubhaiAmbani and his co-brother-
Mr. ChampaklalDamani, who started Reliance Commercial Corpo-
ration. In 1965, the partnership ended and Dhirubhai continued the
polyester business of the firm. In 1966, Reliance Textiles Industries
Pvt Ltd was incorporated in Maharashtra. It established a synthetic
fabrics mill in the same year at Naroda in Gujarat in 1975. Since then,
the core business of Reliance Industries till today, is manufacturing
of different kinds of polyester yarn.
This is documented in a very interesting book called ‘The Poly-
ester Prince’ by Hamish McDonald, which was published in 2011, but
the book was banned in India.
The book takes a balanced look at India’s own robber baron.
Mr. McDonald pays tribute to Gujarati traders/ Banias in the first
few chapters, by acknowledging their exuberance of speech, in-
ventiveness, and commercial drive. Dhirubhai first displayed his
diplomatic and negotiating skills during the Junagadh freedom
struggle. At Yemen, he exploited the fact that silver content in the
Rial, was higher than in the pound.
Source:https://indianvanguard.wordpress.com/2011/08/12/poly-
ester-prince-the-real-story-of-dhirubhai-ambanibanned-in-india/
Review Of Polyester Yarn
The Analysis of Fibres, Yarns &
Threads, is an essential activity for the
whole fibre and yarn industry, as these
are important components of the tex-
tile industry. As per the fibre report, the
trends favour man made fibres, yarns and
threads. They have grown considerably in
the recent years which has resulted in sig-
nificant increase in their production and
consumption. However, this rise is due
to increased consumption in China which
sustains global demand. But demands in
fibre industry of other developed countries have decreased due to
restructuring of their textile industry.
Shri Saurabh Agarwal
Voice: 91-22-22829696 / 22829797
Mobile: +919892337579
email: saurabh@netitb.in
Web: www.thetalentmart.com
13September 2016 www.textilevaluechain.com
The output of manmade fibre had increased in Asia by 11.9%. The
consumption of wool and cotton has also increased here by 2.5%. A
decline was seen in Europe and Americas at nearly 4.5% each. The
growth in today’s booming markets is predicted to be restricted by
energy and raw material shortages.
In India, the oldest textile market is in Surat, Gujrat. In Surat
there are thousands of yarn manufacturing units, which manufac-
ture different kinds of yarn, ranging from cotton yarn to polyester
yarn and many more.
The textile industry in Surat is mainly engaged in the activities
of yarn production, weaving, processing, as well as embroidery.
Surat is well known for its synthetic products market. It is mainly
engaged in the production and trading of synthetic textile prod-
ucts. Nearly 30 million metres of raw fabric and 25 million metres
of processed fabric are produced in Surat daily. The city has several
textile markets that exist since times immemorial.
There are many other places where the textile Industry has
flourished well; places in Rajasthan, Punjab, and Karnataka like Ban-
swara, Bhilwara, and Belgaum etc.
The Surat textile industry has grown considerably over time. As
per recent figures, textile production in Surat has grown by 10% in
the last 5 years, while the market for embroidery has grown from
an almost negligible amount to around Rs. 30000 million over the
same period.
Though there is high supply of Polyester, the demand in domes-
tic market is not as much, due to tropical climate in India. In recent
years, the exports have fallen, the Chinese manufacturers have also
emerged as competitors to Indian manufacturers, as they are pro-
ducing the same quality at lesser price.
According to correspondence in May 2015 in the Business
Standard, the polyester yarn Industry was expected to perform
better as compared to the last few years.
After tough competition from cotton last year, the manmade
yarn and fabric industry is expected to grow at a higher rate of five
to seven per cent in 2015-16 due to stable crude oil prices. However,
it is the domestic market that will see the larger growth, as Indian
synthetic yarn and fabric performance, has not been one of the
best internationally.
So, while companies in this segment are not expecting much
from exports, the domestic market might bring back some sheen,
they say. “While normal growth of five to seven per cent is antici-
pated, if the economy does well, this could go up to double-digit
growth,” said O P Lohia, chairman, Indo Rama Synthetics (India)
Ltd.
Source: http://www.business-standard.com/article/companies/polyester-
sector-expects-better-year-115050600754_1.html
Conclusion
The Indian manmade fibre industry consists of two main sets
of players: The 1st, are erstwhile textile players, and the 2nd have a
presence only in manmade fibres (that is, non-diversified players).
Further, there are some companies that have been established
by equity contribution from the technology licensors. The Indian
petrochemical companies have a presence, mainly in the fibre in-
termediates segment of the fibre value chain (excluding Reliance
Industries Limited, or RIL, which can be considered as a former tex-
tile player).
After understanding the polyester yarn industry in India for pol-
yester yarn, the domestic market has become very tough for the
manufacture’s to survive, hence most of the small manufacturers in
Surat, especially do not just focus only on polyester yarn but other
different yarn and fibres too for their survival !!
COVER STORY
Textile Industry, especially spinning sector is predominantly af-
fected immediately by variation in supply and demand of raw mate-
rial and its prices. It is known reason to all of us that more than 60
% of input cost is raw material cost.
Even though this year India is largest cotton producer, availabil-
ity of raw materials and their pricing are crucial concerns for spin-
ners. Spinning industry is further affected by ever increasing costs
of energy, availability of skilled labour and trained manpower to
run plants effectively and efficiently.
Therefore, making decision has also become very complex es-
pecially with varied challenges posed by ever changing external
environment.
Textile sector of India encountered tough times from 2008,
after having good business over two/three years. Effect of chang-
ing global scenario is having direct impact on small decisions also,
which was not the case earlier. Every change, be it exist of England
from Euro zone or implementation of GST or natural/manmade ca-
lamity anywhere in the world has become an important factor to be
considered before making business decision or taking call for any
additional investments.
Every businessman aims for profits and growth. Naturally busi-
nessman’s drive leads to either value additions for efficient use of
available resources, investment into newer technology, expansion
of capacities, developing new products, finding new usages of
products inorder to reach new or different set of customers and
explore new market, or alternatively finding better options for cost
optimisation by way of energy saving, using different raw material,
finding cheaper solutions etc.
In the present scenario, the job of management or professional
managers has become more challenging; it is not only managing
daily affairs of business and people but to always look for finding
even better ways – be it expansion, diversification, integration,
entering new segments etc. Their role in business calls for taking
prompt but right decisions and simultaneously be prepared for un-
certain future.
In the view of all the above illustrations, to survive and add val-
ue to business, one needs to :
• Have prompt and informed decisions
• Have a gist of timely market situation and demands
• Have correct information –ideal market networking and devel-
oping sources
• Invest into value addition
• Invest into solutions offering direct energy saving
• Invest in solutions for optimised use of available resources
• Invest into right technology and work closely with technology
provider as partner in order to see benefits such as :where di-
rect energy saving is possible or comparatively less skilled or
even new untrained operator can handle work.
Spinning Sector brief
14 September 2016www.textilevaluechain.com
EFFECT OF DIFFERENT WEAVES ON THERMAL RESIST-
ANCE PROPERTIES SHRTING COTTON FABRIC
R. G. Shrivas and L.G. Patil
Department of Textiles
D.K.T.E. Society’s Textile and Engineering Institute,
Email*:rashmi.shrivas89@gmail.com
Abstract
This paper represents the new research on various comfort as-
pects of woven cotton fabric. This paper aims to investigate the
relationship between different fabric weave structure (weaves)
and its comfort properties. In this connection seven different basic
weaves as well as derivatives of basic weave structure were stud-
ied. Comfort properties of fabric in terms of air permeability and
thermal resistance were determined. It was found that the fabric
with plain weave structure showed the highest thermal resistance
making it suitable for cold climatic conditions. The crepe and 2/2
matt weave depicted the lowest thermal resistance which makes it
appropriate for hot climatic conditions.
Keywords: Fabric Structure, comfort, weaves, thermal resist-
ance, air permeability, etc.
Introduction
Clothing is an integral part of human life. The primary role
of clothing is to form a layer/s of barriers that protects the body
against unsuitable physical environments. This protection of body
fulfill number of functions like maintaining the right thermal envi-
ronment to the body, which is essential for its survival and prevent-
ing the body from being injured by abrasion, radiation, wind, elec-
tricity, chemical and microbiological substances. These traditionally
classified functions of clothing clearly indicate that it plays a very
important role at the interface between human body and its sur-
rounding environment in determining the subjective perception of
comfort status of wearer.[1]
Clothing has a number of functions like adornment, status,
modesty & protection. To be competitive, modern clothing besides
having good mechanical and technological properties and being of
easy care, must possess good comfort characteristics. Comfort has
totally replaced the durability as far as the selection of garment is
concerned [1].
1. Factors Influencing Comfort Properties of Textiles
The comfort is considered as a fundamental property when
a textile product is valued. The comfort characteristics of fabrics
mainly depend on the structure, type of row material used, weight,
moisture absorption, heat transmission and skin perception.[11]
The clothing system which is suitable for one climate may not
be suitable for another climate. For example, good thermal insula-
tion properties are needed for clothing which is to be worn in cold
climates. The thermal insulation of textiles depends on number of
factors namely thickness, number of layers, drape, fiber density,
flexibility of layers and adequacy of closures [1]. The main factors
which are affect to the comfort properties of textiles are:
Fabric Structure
Yarn structure
Fiber
From the comfort point of view, the suitable fabric must be
developed by textile technologist through the proper selection of
fiber content, yarn and fabric construction techniques and finishing
treatments. The fabric properties depend on fiber properties, yarn
structure, fabric structure and the mechanical and chemical finish-
ing given to fabric.
1.2 Thermal comfort
Thermal comfort of a clothing system is associated with the
thermal balance of the body and its thermoregulatory responses to
the dynamic interactions with the clothing and the environment. It
is necessary to design fabrics with necessary thermal properties for
a specific end use. In actual wearing condition, the transmission of
moisture and heat through the clothing system take place in steady
state, but is continuously exposed to transients in physical activity
and environmental conditions [11].
Need of thermal comfort
Human body tries to maintain a constant core temperature that
is 37.4₹C. The actual value of this temperature may vary slightly
from person to person but it is always in a narrow range. The com-
fortable surrounding environment temperature for human body in
India is 21₹C. When temperature is more or less than this, body feels
discomfort as a result human body needs some external agency to
maintain this temperature and clothing is one of the most common
devices to provide comfort in this regard. The body must be kept
in thermal balance in order to maintain the required comfort lev-
el; the metabolic heat generated together with the heat received
from external sources must be matched by the loss from the body
of an equivalent amount of heat. If the heat gain and the heat loss
are not in balance then the body temperature will either rise or fall,
leading to a serious threat to life [3].
Factor Affecting the Thermal Performance of Fabrics
There are several factors which affects the thermal properties
of fabric among which thermal insulation plays vital role in prevent-
ing heat loss from body. A. Gericke and J. van der Pol [4] stated
that thermal comfort is influenced by textile fabric properties such
as thermal resistance. Research carried out by H. N. Yoon and A.
Buckley [5] with series of polyester, cotton, and polyester/cotton
blend fabrics concluded that both the fabric construction and the
constituent fiber properties affect thermal transport. Further they
stated that thermal insulation, air permeability, and water vapor
transmission rate are dependent mainly on the fabric geometrical
parameters like thickness and porosity etc. S. Gunesoglu et al [6]
found that the thermal protective performance increases with the
entrapped air inside the fabric in both convective and radiant ex-
posures. Frydrych I. et al [7] studied thermal insulation properties
COVER STORY
15September 2016 www.textilevaluechain.com
of fabrics made of natural and manmade cellulose fibers and they
found that the type of raw material and fabric structure influences
the properties of the finished goods. They also stated that, there
are many possibilities to create fabric with properties which influ-
ence their comfort and comfort properties of woven fabrics can be
achieved not only by the choice of thickness or the fabric cover fac-
tor, but also by applying appropriate weaves, appropriate finishing
processes and raw materials.
Fabric properties like cover factor and thickness also have an
impact on the thermal comfort of the fabric. Bilska et al. [8] studied
the effect of weave design on thermal comfort properties of the
fabric and found that plain fabrics have the highest value of ther-
mal resistance following their compact structure. The compactness
of the structure of plain weave reduces the porosity of the fabric,
which results in lower thermal conductivity; canvas weave has a
better thermal conductivity due to a comparatively open structure;
and twill weave has the lowest value of thermal resistance and the
highest value of thermal conductivity due to its open structure
which has large floats of yarns, which is the cause behind the higher
porosity of the fabric.
2. Material and Method
2/80 Ne cotton yarn was used both in warp and weft for manu-
facturing of fabric. Before manufacturing of fabric all yarn tested
for tensile properties, evenness, hairiness and twist level. Seven dif-
ferent basic weaves as well as derivatives of basic weave structure
viz. Plain, 2/2 matt, warp rib, 3/1 Twill, Herringbone twill, 8 end satin
and crepe were manufactured on rapier weaving machine. The de-
sign of different fabric weaves shown in Table2.1. Finishing was fol-
lowed after fabric manufacturing, with normal process sequence
as followed in the shirting industry. Finished fabric specimens were
evaluated for fabric thickness, areal density, air permeability and
thermal resistance under standard atmospheric condition.
Table: 2.1 Fabric Structure/ weave
Sr.
No.
weaves Weave design
01 Plain
02 Twill 3/1
03 Warp rib
04 Satin
05 Crepe
06 HB Twill
07 Matt
Result and Discussion
yarn properties
Table 3.1 result for the yarn properties
Yarn characteristics Cotton
Count (Ne) 40.3
Tensile Strength (gf) 231.41
Elongation (%) 3.45
Hairiness Index 3.1
Unevenness 7.63
Twist Per Inch 27.2
Fabric Properties
Table 3.2 Fabric Properties
Weaves C o m b i n a -
tion
Airpermiability
(Cm2/cm2.
sec)
Thermal Resistance
Value
Plain C X C 5.62 30.377
Twill 3/1 C X C 8.716 28.514
Warp rib C X C 8.716 28.514
Satin C X C 10.164 29.112
Crepe C X C 17.8 22.538
HB Twill C X C 9.174 29.735
Matt 2/2 C X C 14.35 24.504
COVER STORY
16 September 2016www.textilevaluechain.com
3.1 Effect of weaves on air permeability
The air permeability of a fabric is closely related to the construc-
tion characteristics of the yarns and fabrics in which large volumes
are occupied by air. The air permeability of a fabric is a measure of
how well it allows the passage of air through it and is defined as the
volume of air passed in one second through 100 sq.mm of the fabric
at a pressure difference of 10 mm of water [9]. Air permeability of
fabric was tested according to [ASTM D737].
Figure 3.1 Effect of weave on Air permeability of fabrics
As shown in figure 3.1 there is a significant effect of weaves on
air permeability of fabrics. The crepe weave exhibits higher air per-
meability values were as plain weave exhibits lower air permeabil-
ity value as compare to other weaves.
The difference observed between the air permeability values
of weaves were due to difference in their characteristic covering
properties. For equivalent weaving parameters, crepe weave result
in a looser structure as compare to other structures, other weaves
which has more firm structure than crepe weave. At the other plain
weave fabric has shortest float length, hence it possesses tighter
fabric structure is tight. Therefore crepe fabrics show high perme-
ability than other weaves.
3.2 Effect of Weaves on Thermal Resistance
Thermal Resistance of fabric was tested according to ASTM
D1518. The results are represented graphically and discussed be-
low. The result shows that, a different kind of weaves has influence
on thermal properties of fabrics.
Thermal resistance of a fabric refers to its ability to resist the
heat flow through it. Lower the thermal resistance; the better will
be the comfort for hot climatic conditions. The individual value plot
for air permeability and weave structure is shown in fig.3.2.
Figure 3.2 Effect of weaves and material on the thermal resist-
ance
The results depicted that the 1/1 plain weave has the highest
thermal resistance. This is because of the fact that 1/1 plain weave
has the maximum yarn interlacing points between warp and weft.
High thermal resistance of this weave makes it suitable for cold
climatic conditions. On the contrary, crepe and 2/2 matt weave
showed the lowest thermal resistance because of its relatively less
number of yarn interlacing points between warp and weft. Minimal
thermal resistance of crepe and 2/2 matt weave makes it appropri-
ate for hot climatic conditions [10].
Conclusion
The research results proved that weave structure has a statisti-
cally significant effect on the air permeability and thermal resist-
ance of the fabric. The observed parameters contributed to the
thermo-physiological comfort of the fabrics. Each weave structure
has a specific pattern of yarn interlacing points between the warp
and the weft. It can be concluded from the experimental results
that the higher the yarn interlacing points, the lower will be the air
permeability which means higher thermal resistance. The experi-
ments illustrated that 1/1 plain weave has the highest thermal resist-
ance among the selected weaves and hence suitable for cold cli-
matic conditions. On the other contrary, crepe and 2/2 matt weaves
demonstrated lower thermal resistance which makes it suitable for
hot climatic conditions.
REFERENCES
N. Gokarneshan Fabric Structure and Design, New Age International (p)
Limited, Publishers, 2004. pp. 7-39.
A. Mukhopadhyay, I. C. Sharma and M. Sharma. Evaluation of comfort prop-
erties of polyester-viscose suiting fabrics. Indian Journal of Fiber & Tex-
tile Research, 27, March 2002, pp. 72-76.
S. B. Mhetre & N. Sarada, Effect of different weaves and picks densities on
thermal properties of fabric. Journal of Textile Association, March-April
2014 pp.342-335.
A. Gericke & J. van der Pol, A Comparative Study of Regenerated Bamboo,
Cotton and Viscose Rayon Fabrics. Part 1: Selected Comfort Properties
Journal of Family Ecology and Consumer Science, 38, 2010, pp.63-73.
H. N. Yoon and A. Buckley, Improved comfort polyester part 2: mechani-
cal and surface properties. Textile Research Journal, 54, June 1984, pp.
357-365.
S. Gunesoglu, B. Meric, and C. Gunesoglu, Thermal Contact Properties of
2-Yarn Fleece Knitted Fabrics, Fibers & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 13,
2(50), April/ June 2005, pp.46-50.
I. Frydrych, G. Dziworsha and J. Bilsha, Fibbers & Textiles in Eastern Europe,
October/ December 2002.
Frydrych, I., Dziworska, G. and Bilska, J. Comparative analysis of the thermal
insulation properties of fabrics made of natural and man-made cellulose
fibers. Fibers and Textiles in Eastern Europe, 39(4), 2002, pp. 40-44.
B. P. Saville, Physical Testing of Textile, Wood Head Publishing in Textiles,
Cambridge, England, T209, 2000.pp 195.
S. Ahmad, F. Ahmad, A. Afzal, A. Rasheed, M. Mohsin and N. Ahmad, Effect
of weave structure on thermo-physiological properties of cotton fabrics,
Autex Research Journal, 15, (1), March 2015, pp.30-34.
http://www.slideshare.net/kotharivr/comfort-properties-of-fab-
rics-5262746.
COVER STORY
17September 2016 www.textilevaluechain.com
INTERVIEW
In Conversation with Mr. Rajan Premchander, MD, Amarjothi
Spinning Mills Ltd., TVC felt that they are talking to any fashion
colour specialist not Spinning Industrialist. Though Yarn segment
is not very interesting as compare to Fashion in Textile Value
Chain. But Making Yarn segment interesting it’s an Art and Sci-
ence we can learn from Mr. Rajan Premchander.
Amarjothi Spinning known for their wide range of colour mé-
lange yarns for the readymade garment industry in India, Cambo-
dia, Sri Lanka and Vietnam. Amarjothi Spinning Mills Ltd. is con-
tinuously growing through technological advancement to become
one of the leading producers of colour mélange, fancy yarns and
dyed yarns in the Asian continent.
A very productive brand with a global mindset, Amarjothi has
always thrived on being different from other spinning mills in the
Coimbatore-Tirupur belt with focus on product development and
differentiation. In its journey to be different, various technological
advancements and learning supported Amarjothi’s quest for excel-
lence, one such being its association with an Italian MNC for impart-
ing certain technology on quality enhancement for two years in lieu
of picking up 50 per cent of their production, as increasing labour
cost in Italy was detrimental to competitive production in the coun-
try. “They gave us technical support to improve quality of yarn. So
this was a huge difference with a little change. We learned a lot as
they imparted to us better training on quality,” informs Prem. With
constant upgradation, team effort and commitment to quality, the
company has successfully ventured into different arenas by gaining
sound knowledge in each one of them.
Amarjothi is very strong as in yarn as their core product is high
on demand and they have a well-equipped sample unit which pro-
duces 150¬-200 shades per day… They develop peculiar and unique
shades that are not available in the market and they try to compli-
cate it so that it cannot be duplicated. They create colours so, their
caption for this year says COLOUR CREATORS.
Although the company boasts of multiple businesses globally,
such as fabrics, real estate, software, animation, food products,
hospitals, etc., the company’s core business is still textile, which
was started in 1991 with Amarjothi being one of the few companies
in India to venture into trading of mélange. The production unit fol-
lowed later and now the company specializes in colour mélange,
which surely sets it apart from competition. The last 3 years have
been challenging for the company as the market has been tough
and the competition continuously increasing. “But we are very
strong as our core product is high on demand and we have a well-
equipped sample unit which produces 150¬-200 shades per day. We
develop peculiar and unique shades that are not available in the
market and we try to complicate it so that it cannot be duplicat-
ed…, this is the USP. If anyone picks up a colour from us, they find
it difficult to get the same colour in the market,” claims Prem. He
adds jokingly that sometimes it is even difficult for them to recreate
the sample!
Fighting to stay ahead of competition, the company has in the
last three years ventured into fancy yarns in answer to the market
demand as people are no longer looking at basics. The company
offers internationally comparable shade cards with different tex-
tures, blends, colours and different effects, mainly catering to the
knitting industry and pushing further into the woven segment. “We
have spent huge money on the shade cards and have received very
positive feedback from customers. Our current spindleage capac-
ity is in majorly colour mélange. We have dyeing, washing, etc. all
in-house, but we also outsource some processing due to over de-
mand. We utilize wind energy, have an ETP plant, a lab, fibre dye-
ing and fibre mixing plant and we are very eco¬-friendly,” informs
Prem. The company is into inspirational developments with its list
of fancy yarns including grindle, 100 per cent glow fibres, viscose,
polyester fibre yarn, mélange injections, magic grindle injections,
solid dual injection, to name a few high--end offerings.
The company offers internationally comparable shade cards
with different textures, blends, colours and different effects, main-
ly catering to the knitting industry.
Constant innovation is possible through the company’s product
development team that consists of around 25 people, whose core
job is to work on new developments, coupled with the company’s
QC department. “Whatever we introduce needs to be commercial-
ly viable. Producing takes a lot of time, and also the marketing. We
have a 4-point standard that we maintain throughout the produc-
tion chain. Even in our fabric division, once the yarn is knitted the
fabric comes for inspection, and then goes for colour and washing
and then again we get it for QC. We have a stringent quality sys-
tem in place and we follow all norms. If Amarjothi is getting into
fabrics, it has to be glamorous, away from the usual runoff the mill
fabrics in the market. Through my fancy yarn I am giving a fancier
product,” maintains Prem. Such is its quality standards that the
company is nominated by brands such as Next, M&S, Tesco, Levi’s,
Nike, Original Marines and many more highly recognized brands.
The last 2¬3 years have seen the company going in for total
modernization rather than expansion, replacing its older machines
with new technology, which is also helping the company in times of
shortage of labour. Growing modernisation demands for its work-
force to be trained accordingly, which the company is already do-
ing through animation at its training centre by making smaller mod-
ules and promoting interactive learning. “I have been conducting
training through animation for different industries. At the KSRTC, I
am training 14 lakh people through animation that is Government-
approved. So why shouldn’t I train my people through animation,”
reveals Prem, as the group also has a very successful venture in the
Melange yarns & Vibrant Colours, the
Code of Amarjothi
Mr. Rajan Premchander,
MD, Amarjothi Spinning Mills Ltd.
18 September 2016www.textilevaluechain.com
animation industry.
Nonetheless, like others, the company faces its share of chal-
lenges such as the quality of products, right pricing and also its
timely delivery. But the company through its service team ensures
a smoother transition for its customers, whether through its on-
line¬ check of order status or by being responsive to its customers’
needs. Also, facilitating further is the growing demand for experi-
mentation of fibre that keeps on evolving with various segments
such as ladies, innerwear, children, babies, men, etc. By making its
mark in the market for its quality, innovation and service, Amarjothi
has made its niche in the market and is being recognized for its
product offerings which are unlike any other in the market. Send-
ing 30 per cent of its produce for exports to markets such as Cam-
bodia, Ethiopia, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh and Vietnam and rest 70 per
cent to the domestic market, mostly used for garments exported
to western countries, the company is looking towards more mod-
ernization and growth, besides newer countries to conquer.
During the launch event of Champion’s Collection of Raymond,
we candidly asked few questions
TVC: What’s Vision & Purpose behind the new champions col-
lection launch ?
RB: The sole reason to launch Champions collection is our Chair-
man & Managing Director – Gautam Hari Singhania who is a true
champion. The entire collection showcased at the launch is inspired
by him. The collection is dynamic with a versatile product mix that
showcases the expertise Raymond has in product development
and innovation. Mr. Singhania secured a total of 10 podiums in the
entire season of Ferrari Challenge Series Europe Championship
2015 and stood 2nd in overall standings in the entire season which
is the first ever person to achieve this feat ever in the debut season.
TVC: What’s USP about collection as compared to your current
brand in the market.
RB: The entire collection has All Wool, Wool Rich, Poly Wool,
PW TR, Cotton/Linen and range of Innovative fibers & Yarns. A ver-
satile range designed with the spirit of leadership to create its own
identity. The entire collection range is inspired by different race
wins like Monza, Budapest, Le Castellet, Imola, Valencia, Mugello
and Jubilee.
TVC: What’s your Distribution Strategy ?
RB: The champions collection will be available across all leading
The Raymond Shops in the country. We have currently more than
750 stores across 380 towns.
TVC: What is your targeted Revenue of next one year?
RB: We are targeting a total revenue of 65 crores this year only
from the Champions collection range.
TVC: Send Collection details of each sub brands
RB: Monza – This range offers products with excellent features
and value proposition. Includes 2 products –
1. New trend setting collection in Poly wool and
2. An innovative product with excellent stretch and recovery
feature.
Budapest – This range is a collection of cotton and linen aligned
as per latest colours and designs
Le Castellet – This range offers fine poly wool blended fabrics in
super 90s and super 100s with innovative features.
Imola – This range includes superior fabric with unique quali-
ties. Fine fabric crafted from compact yarns with rich look and
outstanding design clarity. World class range of jacketing fabrics
designed in new colour combinations and design patters.
Valencia – This range caters to luxurious fabrics crafted for spe-
cial occasions. Ceremonial fabrics with unique design elements like
jacquards, glitter yarn effect, shiny textural patterns and unique
placement designs. Also few fabrics crafted from Kroy wool with
easy care features.
Mugello – The collection is of high end products crafted from
noble fibers with luxurious handle and rich look. The range offers
ultimate black fabric in the world, fine suiting fabric crafted from
vicuna and wool. Luxurious suiting fabric made from Guanaco fiber
and wool, fine fabric crafted from Yak fiber and wool, fine fabric
made from cashmere and wool silk and super 180s wool.
Jubilee – A special collection created with the essence of charm
and festivity to cater to a unique range. Rich sheen and fabulous
handle has been fused with the creativity of designs.
Mr. Ram Bhatnagar
Vice President & Head
Sales & Distribution, Raymond Limited
INTERVIEW
Raymond : Brand Launch of “ Champion’s
Collection”
19September 2016 www.textilevaluechain.com
Strategic Management: The Art, The Science &
The Craft of Business
Business (or Strategic) management is the art, science, and
craft of formulating, implementing and evaluating cross-functional
decisions that will enable an organization to achieve its long-term
objectives. It is the process of specifying the organization’s mis-
sion, vision and objectives, developing policies and plans, often
in terms of projects and programs, which are designed to achieve
these objectives and then allocating resources to implement. Stra-
tegic management seeks to coordinate and integrate the activities
of the various functional areas of a business in order to achieve
long-term organizational objectives. A balanced scorecard is often
used to evaluate the overall performance of the business and its
progress towards objectives.
Strategic management is the highest level of managerial activ-
ity. Strategies are typically planned, crafted or guided by the Chief
Executive Officer, approved or authorized by the Board of direc-
tors and then implemented under the supervision of the organiza-
tion’s top management team or senior executives. Strategic man-
agement provides overall direction to the enterprise and is closely
related to the field of Organization Studies. In the field of business
administration it is useful to talk about “strategic alignment” be-
tween the organization and its environment or “strategic consist-
ency”. According to Arieu“There is strategic consistency when the
actions of an organization are consistent with the expectations of
management and these in turn are with the market and the con-
text.”
Three-step strategy formulation process is sometimes referred
to as determining where the organization or business is now, deter-
mining where it wants to go and then suggesting how to get there.
Strategy formulation :
• Performing a situation analysis, self-evaluation and competi-
tor analysis: both internal and external; both micro-environmental
and macro-environmental.
• Concurrent with this assessment, objectives are set. These
objectives should be parallel to a timeline; some are in the short-
term and others on the long-term. This involves crafting vision
statements (long term view of a possible future), mission state-
ments (the role that the organization gives itself in society), overall
corporate objectives (both financial and strategic), strategic busi-
ness unit objectives (both financial and strategic) and tactical ob-
jectives.
• These objectives should, in the light of the situation analysis,
suggest a strategic plan. The plan provides the details of how to
achieve these objectives.
Strategy Implementation :
• Allocation and management of sufficient resources (financial,
personnel, time, technology support)
• Establishing a chain of command or some alternative struc-
ture (such as cross functional teams)
• Assigning responsibility of specific tasks or processes to spe-
cific individuals or groups
• It also involves managing the process. This includes monitor-
ing results, comparing to benchmarks and best practices, evaluat-
ing the efficacy and efficiency of the process, controlling for vari-
ances, and making adjustments to the process as necessary.
• When implementing specific programs, this involves acquir-
ing the requisite resources, developing the process, training, pro-
cess testing, documentation, and integration with (and/or conver-
sion from) legacy processes.
In order for a policy to work, there must be a level of consist-
ency from every person in an organization, including from the man-
agement. This is what needs to occur on the tactical level of man-
agement as well as strategic.
Strategy Formulation vs Strategy Implementation
Following are the main differences between Strategy Formula-
tion and Strategy Implementation-
Shri Rushin H.Vadhani
AGM – Market Research & Product Development
AYM Syntex Limited (Formely Welspun Syntex Ltd)
BRAND STRATEGY
20 September 2016www.textilevaluechain.com
Strategy Evaluation :
• Measuring the effectiveness of the organizational strat-
egy, it’s extremely important to conduct a SWOT analysis to figure
out the strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats (both in-
ternal and external) of the entity in question. This may require to
take certain precautionary measures or even to change the entire
strategy.
In corporate strategy, Johnson and Scholes present a model
in which strategic options are evaluated against three key success
criteria:
• Suitability (would it work?)
• Feasibility (can it be made to work?)
• Acceptability (will they work it?)
One of the most important tool of strategic management along
with SWOT-Analysis, is the matrix developed by BCG- Boston Con-
sultancy Group.BCG-Matrix also called as growth-share matrix, is
a corporate planning tool, used to portray firm’s brand portfolio
or SBUs on a quadrant along relative market share axis (horizontal
axis) and speed of market growth (vertical axis) axis.
Growth-share matrix is a business tool, which uses relative
market share and industry growth rate factors to evaluate the po-
tential of business brand portfolio and suggest further investment
strategies.
The analysis requires that both measures be calculated for each
SBU-Strategic Business Unit. The dimension of business strength,
relative market share, will measure comparative advantage indi-
cated by market dominance. The key theory underlying this is exist-
ence of an experience curve and that market share is achieved due
to overall cost leadership.
BCG matrix has four cells, with the horizontal axis representing
relative market share and the vertical axis denoting market growth
rate. The mid-point of relative market share is set at 1.0. if all the
SBU’s are in same industry, the average growth rate of the industry
is used. While, if all the SBU’s are located in different industries,
then the mid-point is set at the growth rate for the economy.
Resources are allocated to the business units according to their
situation on the grid. The four cells of this matrix have been called
as stars, cash cows, question marks and dogs. Each of these cells
represents a particular type of business.
10x 1X 0.1 x
Figure: BCG Matrix
1. Stars-
Stars represent business units having large market share in a
fast growing industry. They may generate cash but because of fast
growing market, stars require huge investments to maintain their
lead. Net cash flow is usually modest. SBU’s located in this cell are
attractive as they are located in a robust industry and these busi-
ness units are highly competitive in the industry. If successful, a star
will become a cash cow when the industry matures.
2. Cash Cows-
Cash Cows represents business units having a large market
share in a mature, slow growing industry. Cash cows require little
investment and generate cash that can be utilized for investment in
other business units. These SBU’s are the corporation’s key source
of cash, and are specifically the core business. They are the base
of an organization. These businesses usually follow stability strate-
gies. When cash cow s loose their appeal and move towards dete-
rioration, then a retrenchment policy may be pursued.
3. Question Marks-
Question marks represent business units having low relative
market share and located in a high growth industry. They require
huge amount of cash to maintain or gain market share. They re-
quire attention to determine if the venture can be viable. Question
marks are generally new goods and services which have a good
commercial prospective. There is no specific strategy which can be
adopted. If the firm thinks it has dominant market share, then it
can adopt expansion strategy, else retrenchment strategy can be
adopted. Most businesses start as question marks as the company
tries to enter a high growth market in which there is already a mar-
ket-share. If ignored, then question marks may become dogs, while
if huge investment is made, then they have potential of becoming
stars.
4. Dogs-
Dogs represent businesses having weak market shares in low-
growth markets. They neither generate cash nor require huge
amount of cash. Due to low market share, these business units face
cost disadvantages. Generally retrenchment strategies are adopt-
ed because these firms can gain market share only at the expense
of competitor’s/rival firms. These business firms have weak market
share because of high costs, poor quality, ineffective marketing,
etc. Unless a dog has some other strategic aim, it should be liqui-
dated if there is fewer prospects for it to gain market share. Num-
ber of dogs should be avoided and minimized in an organization.
Limitations of BCG Matrix :
The BCG Matrix produces a framework for allocating resources
among different business units and makes it possible to compare
many business units at a glance. But BCG Matrix is not free from
limitations, such as-
1. BCG matrix classifies businesses as low and high, but generally
businesses can be medium also. Thus, the true nature of busi-
ness may not be reflected.
2. Market is not clearly defined in this model.
3. High market share does not always leads to high profits. There
are high costs also involved with high market share.
4. Growth rate and relative market share are not the only indica-
tors of profitability. This model ignores and overlooks other in-
dicators of profitability.
5. At times, dogs may help other businesses in gaining competi-
tive advantage. They can earn even more than cash cows some-
times.
6. This four-celled approach is considered as to be too simplistic.
Benefits of Strategic Management :
There are many benefits of strategic management and they
include identification, prioritization, and exploration of opportu-
nities. For instance, newer products, newer markets, and newer
forays into business lines are only possible if firms indulge in stra-
tegic planning. Next, strategic management allows firms to take an
objective view of the activities being done by it and do a cost ben-
BRAND STRATEGY
21September 2016 www.textilevaluechain.com
efit analysis as to whether the firm is profitable.
Just to differentiate, by this, we do not mean the financial ben-
efits alone (which would be discussed below) but also the assess-
ment of profitability that has to do with evaluating whether the
business is strategically aligned to its goals and priorities.
The key point to be noted here is that strategic management al-
lows a firm to orient itself to its market and consumers and ensure
that it is actualizing the right strategy.
Financial Benefits
It has been shown in many studies that firms that engage in
strategic management are more profitable and successful than
those that do not have the benefit of strategic planning and strate-
gic management.
When firms engage in forward looking planning and careful
evaluation of their priorities, they have control over the future,
which is necessary in the fast changing business landscape of the
21st century.
It has been estimated that more than 100,000 businesses fail in
the US every year and most of these failures are to do with a lack
of strategic focus and strategic direction. Further, high performing
firms tend to make more informed decisions because they have
considered both the short term and long-term consequences and
hence, have oriented their strategies accordingly. In contrast, firms
that do not engage themselves in meaningful strategic planning
are often bogged down by internal problems and lack of focus that
leads to failure.
Non-Financial Benefits
The section above discussed some of the tangible benefits of
strategic management. Apart from these benefits, firms that en-
gage in strategic management are more aware of the external
threats, an improved understanding of competitor strengths and
weaknesses and increased employee productivity. They also have
lesser resistance to change and a clear understanding of the link
between performance and rewards.
The key aspect of strategic management is that the problem
solving and problem preventing capabilities of the firms are en-
hanced through strategic management. Strategic management
is essential as it helps firms to rationalize change and actualize
change and communicate the need to change better to its employ-
ees. Finally, strategic management helps in bringing order and dis-
cipline to the activities of the firm in its both internal processes and
external activities.
In recent years, virtually all firms have realized the importance
of strategic management. However, the key difference between
those who succeed and those who fail is that the way in which
strategic management is done and strategic planning is carried out
makes the difference between success and failure. Of course, there
are still firms that do not engage in strategic planning or where
the planners do not receive the support from management. These
firms ought to realize the benefits of strategic management and
ensure their longer-term viability and success in the marketplace.
Key References :
• Perspectives on Strategies – Boston Consultancy Group by Carl W.Stern
• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki
• www.strategicmanagementguide.com
• www.insead.edu
• www.strategicmanagementreview.com
• Business Strategy : Managing Uncertainty, Opportunity & Enterprise by
J.C.Spender
• Reference Case studies on Strategic Management
*Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed in this article are those of
the author in his personal capacity of knowledge & perspectives on the
mentioned subject.
BRAND STRATEGY
BusinessofHygieneProductsinIndia–New
Business, New Product, New Opportunity
Dr. Prabhakar Bhat and Mr. B.S. Pancholi
(Textiles Consultant)
Introduction:
Various new products are hitting the market in the recent past
in India and one of the most exciting products catching the atten-
tion of investors are hygiene applications. This has a global mar-
ket size of US$80 billion estimated for the year 2015. Though they
originated in developed in countries their spread across the globe
is clearly visible and today developing countries have the highest
growth rate. In Europe and America the market has matured and
growth is near stagnant. Asia Pacific, Middle East and Africa are
showing high growth rate mainly because of increase in per capita
income and low penetration level so far.
Out of various products under hygiene the major market share
is of baby diapers, sanitary napkins and adult incontinence. No
doubt wipes are the other category calling attention of investors
due to innovation and flushable product development in personal
care wipes.
Global Market
According to UN estimate current world population is above
7 bn and it is likely to touch 9 bn by 3050 and 11 billion by 2100.
No doubt the child birth rate is reducing at most of the regions ex-
cept Africa. The consumption of hygiene products is depending on
the population, their per capita income and the education or the
awareness. Of the total population 49.6% is of female and 7.6% is
of aged above 65 years. The birth rate stands at 1.9% or 133 million
children born every year or close to 200 million is the child popula-
tion at 0 – 2 age group.
Of the total US$80bn market of hygiene products, according
to Euromonitor, US$43bn is of baby diaper, followed by sanitary
napkins and adult incontinence. Sanitary napkin market is expected
to reach US$42.7bn by 2022 of which Asia Pacific having a share of
48.9% owing to increasing awareness and adoption of better hy-
22 September 2016www.textilevaluechain.com
giene practices at China, Japan and others (as per the report of Al-
lied Market Research). The future growth in hygiene products is
obviously in Asia and Africa.
Fig. 1. World population 1750 – 2050
Fig.2. Global Market of Hygiene Products
Indian Market
Indian market for hygiene products is at the verge of pace
change especially for baby diapers and sanitary napkins with their
penetration level being 2% and 12% (? – this figure quoted at various
sources remain unchanged during the last few years though mar-
ket size estimation speaks higher level) respectively. The estima-
tion of population of babies below 2 years in India is about 70.2 mn.
At 2% penetration level the yearly consumption should have been
INR15bn at 3pcs/day/baby usage and at INR 10/pc. But the market
size data from different sources indicate at INR 30bn in 2015. That
means our penetration level has crossed 4% in baby diaper.
Similarly the sanitary napkin market penetration is question-
able. India has 355mn female population in the menstruation age
group (as per 2011 report). That means at 12% penetration level
42.6mn ladies should use napkins. In 2011 the population was 1.22bn
and in 2016 it is 1.33bn if female population is projected in that ratio
then number of female in menstruation age is 387mn. According
to NPCS report the sanitary napkin market is expected to touch
INR45.9bn by 2017. If a lady uses 3pcs/day for 4 days having 13 cy-
cles per year and at INR3.5/pc of sanitary napkin the penetration
level works out to 21.56% by 2017 (change in women population
from 2016 to 2017 is neglected in approximation). Interestingly the
hygiene products in India are maintaining a growth rate well above
20% for the last 5-6 years.
There is no clear data available in terms of percentage use of
adult incontinence in India. The population of persons above 70
years in India is increasing year after year; 5.8% of India’s popula-
tion is above 65 years and their physical mobility falls down from
94% in age group of 60-64 for men to 72% by 80 years. The use of
adult diaper is still considered as taboo; however the awareness of
its usage is growing. The market of adult diapers in India can best
be explained by example of Nobel Hygiene Pvt. Ltd. which started
in 2010 and today it has 5 European machines with a turnover of
INR 1.25bn. Every year at least one machine is added for making
adult diapers. However, major market is still with institutional buy-
ers, limiting to hospitalized patients.
At the outset one can say that India is at the verge of rapid
growth in future in the area of hygiene products. Market expansion
BOMB is about to explode, it is just a matter of time!
New Business
If anyone in India is thinking of starting a new business as a di-
versification or due to attraction of high profit margin or thinking
of entry into the product segment at right time or for using exist-
ing market network or as new product into the basket of existing
business or planning for new business for the young generation in
the family, hygiene products are the right choice. It is because the
awareness in use of these products for health and hygiene, con-
venience, free from embarrassment, comfortness and many more
has reached every corner of the society, thanks to media and the
Government of India initiative. Fast growth of electronic media and
spread of organized retailing to small towns supported by e-mar-
keting are creating excellent platform for easy promotion of new
brands; educating the customer is cost effective. The new entrants
needn’t be scared of MNC bands. Indian market has resemblance
to that of China in terms of size, growth pattern and economic sta-
tus, may be last two aspects compared to status 2-3 decades back.
The middle class of India has high purchase power and passion for
modern and comfortable products. Every year 1% of the population
adds to the middle class which is equal to 13mn, a huge size for
promotion of any new product.
Let the calculation be done the other way. Each of these 3 prod-
ucts under hygiene products is growing at 20-22%; let it be consid-
ered as 20% for calculation purpose. Baby diaper market was INR 30
billion in 2015 and addition of 20% for 2016 that means INR 6 billion
or scope for additional production of 600 million pieces. A state-of
art machine in the market produces 162 million pieces in a year at
the rate of 500pcs/min and 22.5 hrs a day. This shows that every
year 3-4 new machines can be added in baby diaper segment.
If the same logic is used for sanitary napkins, 20% growth rate
for INR 40bn market an addition of INR 8bn every year. When a
new entrant invests on machine in all probability the machine
speed will not be more than 800 pcs/min which will produce 259mn
pcs/yr having sales value (@INR3.5/pc) INR 0.9 bn/yr. Here again
scope for adding machines could be 9/yr. In adult diaper the current
manufacturers are adding machines regularly.
The scope therefore in this business is very high and no need of
any fear for entering; one has to understand the market dynamics
before entering. A rough estimate of investment is given in table 1.
Product Machine cost in INR
(millions)
Project cost in INR
(millions) apprx*
Sanitary Napkin 10 to 250 20 to 400
Baby Diaper 40 to 400 70 to 600
Adult Diaper 50 to 400 75 to 600
Maternity Pads 10 to 200 18 to 350
Hospital Under Pads 17 to 150 25 to 250
Table 1. Investment Required for Hygiene Products
The figures for project cost in the table 1 are excluding land and
building cost, in other words it includes plant and machines and
TECHNICAL TEXTILE
23September 2016 www.textilevaluechain.com
working capital. Cost wise machines are available in wide range of
and selection depends on investment capacity, the type of prod-
ucts to be manufactured and business approach. The profitability
ranges from 25% to 75% of the MRP, again depending on the busi-
ness plan of the company. No doubt this is a very technical product;
though not very complicated, familiarizing the same before invest-
ment is a must.
New Product:
The current players are continuing in business and for most of
the others it can be a new business or new product. These prod-
ucts are used for personal hygiene and the customer will directly
experience the comfort or uncomfortness it. The product is used
at sensitive area of the body and customer is very cautious about
any visible embarrassment or any inconvenience in usage. Any
botheration in use may lead to switch over of the product, espe-
cially the customers from urban area who understands it. Hence
product design is very important. More than 80% of market share is
dominated by MNCs. They have many patents on various features
of the products. Simple copying of the features will be disastrous.
The investor has to decide his product profile carefully. There are
different aspects need to be considered while deciding the product
profile. Any general guideline in this regard would be misleading;
involving experts is the only solution for success in this business.
All the three products under discussion in the article have a
common function i.e. absorbing a fluid, blood or urine. Its rate of
discharge is different, quantity is different, fit in use is different and
hence structure is different. All of them use a top sheet made of
nonwoven or aperture film, a core consisting pulp with or without
SAP or air laid, and a bottom sheet as barrier for fluid. Many other
components are included that are product specific. The absorbency
during usage purely depends on design of the product, apart from
the type of raw materials used. Design of structure is the most cru-
cial part of the product. Machine is custom built for this purpose
and flexibility in changing this later will be limited.
For the same product there are varieties of raw materials avail-
able. Selection of them influences aesthetic as well as functional
properties, in addition to cost. For example top sheet is mostly non-
woven in 15 to 25 gsm; they are available in S, SS, SSS, air through, ES
Air through, carded, etc. and SMS, SSMMSS, and many more com-
binations for other applications. They are available with treatments
for quick absorption and itching free, rashes free or embossed to
3D, embossed but without 3D effect, and many more; the products
with different features keep on flowing to the market. Selection
of them is critical and thoughtful process. There are at least 5 to
15 different raw materials in a product, their selection, dimension,
position, design, synchronization can only make the product suc-
cessful in the market. Most of the raw materials are available from
Indian sources.
There are number of companies in the world who supply the
machine, especially in China. They are available in all categories and
in all price range, though not a single one in India. Machine costing
as low as INR 4mn to 0.3bn are available. Selection of them is not
only crucial for product quality and features but also for product
cost. Each machine is customized as per the product profile and the
requirement of the customer. Since machines are highly automatic
and all operations are synchronized a little failure in it can lead to
lot of wastages. Hence selection of machine has to be done very
carefully. But beauty of these machines is, operations are made
simple and maintaining them is not very critical.
Apart from these three there products few more products un-
der hygiene applications have good potential for investment. Wet
wipes for various applications, maternity pads, and hospital under
pads have made their entry in the market. The breast pads, shoul-
der pads, under arm pads, cotton swabs, etc. are the products that
will be seen in the market near future.
New Opportunities:
Hygiene products are excellent opportunities for business di-
versification or for new investment. The profit margin can be very
high and need not to worry much for major brands in market. The
investor has to plan how to position himself in the market. In Hong
Kong the per capita usage of sanitary napkin in 2015 was 182 (Eu-
romonitor) while it is much less in India. China had 1200 brands
from 506 companies in baby diaper segment before 2013. It added
200 more brands in 2 years, both domestic and foreign. The mar-
ket share of 10 brands in China is about 80% and rest is of others,
interestingly the top brand is a domestic one. In India there are
only three countable brands in baby diaper and sanitary napkins
and hence ample scope is available for local brands to occupy the
market space.
The growth drivers for these products are not just the spread
of awareness but the emergence of social media reaching to rural
market, new buzz in the market, e-commerce and organized retail-
ing. E-commerce as well is reaching to rural India; it has caught-up
well in urban India, and hygiene products are one of the common
products because there is no need to personally observe the prod-
uct before purchase. India’s e-commerce market is expected to
reach US$ 220 billion in terms of gross merchandise value (GMV)
and 530 million shoppers by 2025, led by faster speeds on reliable
telecom networks, faster adoption of online services and better va-
riety as well as convenience – McKinsey Global Institute. Research
firm Nielsen projected that rural India’s FMCG market will surpass
the US$ 100 billion mark by 2025.
Market share of the hygiene products in urban is more than ru-
ral mass. In 1951, the urban population of India was 62mn, 17% of the
total population. By 2011 the urban population was 377 mn or 31%,
it is estimated to be 42.5% by 2025. With more literacy and more job
creations in cities the migration will boost up in near future. This
migration adds to the opportunity for hygiene products market.
India’s female workforce participation is growing at the rate of
5.6% compared to 3% of males in urban or compared to 2% of female
in rural areas (2011 data); this might have improved further by now.
This will support the growth of feminine hygiene and baby diaper
market.
Conclusion:
The business of disposable hygiene products in India is a lucra-
tive proposal. The business cycle is fast approaching the threshold
point of rapid growth, a right time to enter the market. Anyone
planning to diversify into new products or planning for new busi-
ness or intends to add new products to the existing basket, dis-
posable hygiene products are the right choice. A huge domestic
market is available to grab, presence of MNCs is not a worry, and
enormous space is available for new players. The investor has to
plan properly, select a right product profile, do homework for raw
material selection, not to follow herd mentality in machine selec-
tion, and be ready for establishing his own marketing network. A
huge opportunity is in front of the investor, customer is still looking
for right product.
Hence the opportunity for business in hygiene products is plen-
ty, many call it as “Gold Mine”.
TECHNICAL TEXTILE
24 September 2016www.textilevaluechain.com
The Association’s Export Awards Scheme covers the following
categories of Awards :-
1) Apex Export Award
2) Segment Export Awards for each of the major sectors of
the Textile Machinery Industry i.e.
(i) Textile Machinery Sector
(ii) Parts and Accessories Sector
(iii) Textile Testing, Monitoring & Controlling Instruments Sec-
tor
3) Special Export Awards: Category-wise
The Association also presents Research and Development
Awards for indigenous development of new technology/processes
under different categories in the field of Textile Machinery Industry.
1) EXPORT EXCELLENCE AWARDS :
The Association received Ten nominations for Export Excellence
Awards. These nominations were evaluated by the Awards
Committee of the Association and selected the following win-
ners.
a) Apex Export Award :
This year the jury decided to Apex award to two member be-
cause of slight marks variation
The first Apex Award Winner is : Rieter India Pvt. Ltd., Pune
During the year 2015-16 Rieter India Pvt. Ltd. exported Textile
Spinning Machinery to the tune of Rs.437 Crores which formed 48%
of the total turnover. The countries to which they had exported to
are Switzerland, Netherlands, Malaysia, Germany, Czech Republic,
China and Vietnam etc.
Recipient of the Award is : Mr. Aananda Nair , Vice President
After Sales Service of the Company.
The second Apex Award winner is : Lakshmi Machine Works
Ltd., Coimbatore
During the year 2015-16 Lakshmi Machine Works Ltd. exported
Textile Spinning Machinery and Parts to the tune of Rs.523 Crores
which formed 24% of the total turnover. The countries to which
they have exported to are Bangladesh, Vietnam, Indonesia, China,
Turkey, Nepal, Pakistan, Bahrain, Thailand, Kenya, Tanzania and
Uganda etc..
Recipient of the Award is : Mr. C. Arunachalam, Senior General
Manager-Sales (Global) of the Company
b) Segment Export Awards :
i) Machinery Sector :-
WinneroftheAwardis:TruetzschlerIndiaPvt.Ltd.,Ahmedabad
During the year 2015-16, Truetzschler India Pvt. Ltd. have ex-
ported Spinning Machinery to the tune of Rs.88 Crores which
formed 16% of the total turnover. The countries to which they have
exported to are Germany, Brazil, Iran, China, USA, Austria and Ja-
pan.
Recipients of the Award is : Mr. Kashyap Bhavsar – General
Manager Finance of the Company.
ii) For Parts & Accessories Sector :
Winner of the Award is : Lakshmi Card Clothing Mfg. Co. Pvt.
Ltd., Coimbatore
During the year 2015-16, Lakshmi Card Clothing Mfg. Co. Pvt.
Ltd. exported their Card Clothing and Card Room Accessories
worth Rs.27 Crores which formed 22% of the total turnover. The re-
gions to which they had exported their products are Far East, Asia,
Middle East, Africa and South America.
Recipient of the Award is : Mr. R. Jagadeesan, Vice-President-
Corporate Administration of the Company.
iii) For Textile Testing, Monitoring & Controlling Instruments Sec-
tor :
Winner of the Award is : Premier Evolvics Pvt. Ltd., Coimbatore
During the year 2015-16, Premier Evolvics Pvt. Ltd. exported
Textile Testing, Monitoring & Controlling Instruments to the tune
of Rs.17 Crores which formed 22% of the total turnover. The coun-
tries to which they had exported to are Bangladesh, China, Viet-
nam, Brazil, Turkey, Indonesia, and Nepal.
Recipient of the Award is : Mr. C.R. Srinivasan, Vice-President
of the Company.
c) Special Export Awards :-
i) Weaving Preparatory & Weaving Machinery Sector :-Winner of
the Award is: Peass Industrial Engineers Pvt. Ltd., Navsari
During the year 2015-16, Peass Industrial Engineers Pvt. Ltd.
exported Weaving Machinery to the tune of Rs.23 Crores which
formed 31% of the total turnover. They had exported their products
to various Countries. Major export destinations are Vietnam, Bang-
ladesh, Indonesia, China, Pakistan, Turkey, Kenya, Nepal, Egypt
Iran Thailand etc.
As there was no recipient from the Company present at the
function, the Award will be sent to their Company.
ii) Processing Machinery Sector :-
Winner of the Award is : Dhall Enterprises & Engineers Pvt.
Ltd., Ahmedabad
During the year 2015-16, Dhall Enterprises & Engineers Pvt. Ltd.
exported Textile Processing Machinery to the tune of Rs.22 Crores
which formed 36% of the total turnover. The countries to which
they had exported to are Bangladesh, Ethiopia and Turkey.
As there was no recipient from the Company present at the
function, the Award will be sent to their Company.
iii) Parts and Accessories Sector :-
Winner of the Award is : InspirOn Engineering Pvt. Ltd.,
Ahmedabad
During the year 2015-16, InspirOn Engineering Pvt. Ltd. export-
ed Textile Machinery Parts and Accessories to the tune of Rs.22
Crores which formed 53% of the total turnover. The countries to
which they have exported to are Germany, Italy, Spain, Indonesia,
Turkey, China Thailand, Netherlands, Bangladesh etc.
Recipient of the Award is : Mr. Sanjay R. Kowarkar, Vice-Presi-
dent – Sales & Marketing of the Company.
iv) Small Scale Sector – Textile Machinery
TEXTILE MACHINERY MANUFACTURERS’ ASSOCIATION (INDIA)
Citation of Export Excellence and R&D Awards 2015-16
POST EVENT REPORT
25September 2016 www.textilevaluechain.com
Winner of the Award is : Palod Himson Machines Pvt. Ltd., Surat
During the year 2015-16, Palod Himson Machines Pvt. Ltd. ex-
ported Textile Machinery worth Rs.3 Crores which formed 25% of
the total turnover. The country which they had exported to is Iran,
Nepal, Rusia and Sri Lanka.
Recipient of the Award is : Mr. Pratik R. Bachkaniwala, Direc-
tor of the Company.
2) RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT AWARDS:
Four members nominations were received for five product de-
velopments for R&D Awards. The Jury considered three nomina-
tions eligible for the Award for their R&D efforts for the year 2015-
16. The winner are :
Lakshmi Machine Works Ltd., Coimbatore for their develop-
ment of “Draw Frame LDAZ” .
The newly developed “Draw Frame LDAZ” has various unique
features such as 4/3 drafting system, Duo Digital processor auto
levelling and sliver monitoring.
The “Draw Frame LDAZ” is with 4-over-3 drafting arrange-
ment with pressure bar, wherein the reduced web travel distance
after drafting guarantees less sliver breakages and higher delivery
speeds. Dual digital Processor (feed & delivery) in LDAZ ensures the
accurate functioning of the autoleveller even at the higher delivery
speeds. The Online Quality Monitoring System displays the quality
parameters like U%,CV%,A%, 1Meter CV% and spectrogram. Hence
the quality of the delivered sliver is assured with increase produc-
tion of 25-40% and reduces the delivery breaks by 10-15/%. This prod-
uct is Patented and LMW has accreditation under ISO 9001 & 14001
Standards with OHSAS 18001 certification.
Recipient of the Award is : Mr. R. Satheesh Kumar Team Lead-
er, Draw Frame - R&D - of the Company
The next R&D Award winner is
MAG Solvics Pvt. Ltd., Coimbatore for their development “Ac-
cuTrash” Automatic Trash Separator
Trash in cotton has the impact right from the ginning till yarn &
fabric production. Commercial decision in cotton procurement and
yarn realization in spinning mills is dependent on the percentage of
trash preset in the cotton.
The “AccuTrash” is a testing equipment developed by the MAG
Solvics has the minimum manual intervention, Automatic & accu-
rate Trash measurement through Gravimetric method. It measures
real Trash content by actual extraction using buoyancy separation
technique by use of air current. Air current is automatically adjusted
for better Trash separation on continues basis. It has optimal sam-
ple size and testing speed. Faster testing: single pass most of the
time and has long term data storage and analysis. This standalone
product ; can be integrated with High Volume Fibre Tester. 80% of
HVT is supplied with AccuTrash; which shows the acceptability of
this instrument.
It benefits to fixing the price during cotton procurement, set-
ting up machine/process parameters in spinning preparatory, As-
sessment of yarn realization, Quality of the products (Yarn & Gray
fabric) and improves working performance in spinning and fabric
forming. Output from this product also helps in wastage reduction,
Capital Cost reduction, Value addition and Labour.
Recipient of the Award is : Mr. Manikanda Murthy, Managing
Director of the Company.
The next R&D Award winner is :
The Indian Card Clothing Co. Ltd., Pune to a “Device for measur-
ing Height of Revolving Flat Tops On Card of a Carding Machine”
One of the key factors required for consistent yarn quality is the
proximity between the revolving flat tops and the cylinder clothing.
The On Card flat measurement system developed by ICC enables
an accurate measurement of the height of the tops in position on
the card. With the aid of a digital dial and a proprietary software,
the flat tops can be measured and only those tops, which require
leveling may be selected for re-sharpening to achieve the desired
tolerance in the flat top height. Measurements of the revolving flat
tops are transmitted on a data storing Programmable Logic Con-
troller or computer removing the possibility of any transcription
errors which occurs if the measurement is done manually. The soft-
ware enables the data to be analyzed and identifies those revolving
flat tops which need correction. The precise sharpening for only
the relevant revolving flat tops is possible, thereby enhancing the
life of the tops, maintaining consistency of the card sliver reducing
wastage of fibre and improving power consumption and labour
productivity.
Recipient of the Award is : Mr. Ashok Kumar Pal, General Man-
ager ( Product Application) of the Company.
POST EVENT REPORT
SEPTEMBER 2016 ISSUE
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SEPTEMBER 2016 ISSUE

  • 1. www.textilevaluechain.com TE TILEX VALUE CHAIN Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2015-17 published on 5th of every month,TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar- 75, posting date 17/18 of month September 2016 Volume 4 Issue 9 Pages 44 Market Report : Cotton / Yarn/ Surat/ Apparel Index Interview : Amarjothi & Raymond Article : Strategy Management / Business of Hygiene products Technical Article: Effects of different weaves on thermal resistance properties shirting cotton fabric Knitting : the most innovative segment
  • 2.
  • 3. è Fancy Yarn è Grindle Yarn è Magic Grindle Duel è 100% Viscose Fibre Yarn è 100% Polyester Fibre Yarn è 100% Glow Fibre Yarn è Modal è Slub Yarn è Magic Grindle Injection è Glow Neps Yarn è PP Galaxy è Solid Dual Injection è Organic Cotton è Bamboo è Neps Yarn è Magic Grindle Streak è Lurex Glittering è Melange Injection è Magic Melange Streak è Blended Cotton è ensile Range of Yarn Products Corporate Office: Amarjothi House 157, Kumaran Road Tirupur 641601 TN, India T +91 421 4311600 F +91 421 4326694 info@amarjothi.net www.amarjothi.net Depot: 15, Kumaran Complex Kumaran Road Tirupur 641601 TN, India T +91 421 2201516 & +91 421 2206466 F +91 421 2200389 depo@amarjothi.net Mills: Gobi Main Road Pudhusuripalayam Nambiyur 638458 TN, India T +91 4285 267201 & +91 4285 267301 F +91 4285 267565 mill@amarjothi.net Dyeing Unit: No. E 7, 8 & 9 SIPCOT Perundurai 638052 Erode Dist. TN, India T +91 4294 234093 F +91 4294 234092 dyeing@amarjothi.net
  • 4.
  • 5.
  • 6. 6 September 2016www.textilevaluechain.com EDITORIAL Ms. Jigna Shah Editor & Publisher All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith. Registered Office Innovative Media and Information Co. 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel : +91-22-21026386 Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com tvcmedia2012@gmail.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com Owner, Publisher, Printer & Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed & Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India. We have honoured that Indian Textile Industry is in the hands of 2 dynamic Women. First one is Ex- TV Personality, Textile Minister Mrs. Smriti Irani; second one is Economic Doctorate Textile Commissioner Dr. Kavita Gupta. Both are non textile professionals, but determined to change the industry by their pres- ence. Dr. Kavita Gupta mentioned in one of the meeting that Mrs. Smriti Irani considered TRA (Textile Re- search Associations) & COE (Centre of Excellence for Technical Textiles) is not up to the international standard. Running TRA is a challenge due to lack of financial support. But she stated that there was no constraint for funds to support the sector, she said of the Rs 9 crore released out of the allocated Rs 13.5 crore to BTRA’s Centre of Excellence for Geotech & had utilised only Rs 3.01 crore. While South India Tex- tile Research (SITRA) has utilised Rs 9.72 crore of the released fund of Rs 11.43 crore, Ahmedabad Textile Industry Research Association (ATIRA) has kept pending Rs 2.46 crore of the release amount of Rs 22.99 crore. Describing technical textiles as the future of the industry, she said the market size is projected to increase from Rs 75,925 crore in 2012-13 to Rs 1,58,540 crore in 2016-17, with a growth rate of 20 per cent year-on-year. Today, there are mix emotions in the industry. Any Industry developed & run by Manufacturer/Export- ers, Traders/ Importer, Retailers, Association of the value chain. But our industry looks so much dark for new entrants like Students, investors, banks, credit rating agencies, and consultants. They feel insecure & de-motivated to enter, though there is no entry barrier. Textile industry will exist forever till the man kind alive in earth. There may be ups and down, but Fash- ion & glamour can never alter any technology products. Classic Example of ZARA Founder Mr. Amancio Ortega, has beaten Mr. Bill Gates Founder of Microsoft to become world’s richest person. We should Stay Positive and Think more productive, innovative...!! Wish you a very Happy Festival Season..!!! Textile Economy; Stay Positive...!
  • 7. Contact: Suresh Saraf+91 9322 50 4449 / +91 9322 10 4449 | Nayan Saraf - +91 7498 88 1400 Office Landline - 91-22-6002 0119 / Email : sureshsaraf2000@yahoo.co.in | info@shreebalajisynfabs.com sureshsaraf@shreebalajisynfabs.com | Website : www.shreebalajisynfabs.com Address: Room No.-17, Ground Floor, 342 Kalbadevi Road, Mumbai- 400002 SKBS SHREE BALAJI SYNFABSSHREE BALAJI SYNFABSSHREE BALAJI SYNFABS Advt. 9699 25 8834
  • 8. 8 September 2016www.textilevaluechain.com EDITORIAL TEAM Editor & Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Consulting Editor Mr. Avinash Mayekar Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale INDUSTRY Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group) EDUCATION / RESEARCH Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist & Head MPD Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT CONSULTANT / ASSOCIATION Mr. Shivram Krishnan Senior Textile Advisor Mr. G. Benerjee Management & Industrial Consultant Mr. Uttam Jain Director PDEXCIL; VP of Hindustan Chamber of Commerce Mr. Shiv Kanodia Sec General, Bharat Merchant Chamber Mr. N.D. Mhatre Dy. Director, ITAMMA September 2016 ISSUE CONTENT Advertiser Index NEWS 9- Madhu Jain : Craft Revivalist & Textile Conservationist 10- Stanford Scientist develop skin line fabric COVER STORY 11- Skill Development – Need of an hour for Tirupur Knitting hub by Mr. Avinash Mayekar 12- Review of Polyester Yarn Mark by Mr. Saurabh Agarwal 14- Effects of different weaves on thermal resistance proper- ties shirting cotton fabric by DKTE professor INTERVIEWS 17- Interview with Mr. Rajan Premchandar, MD of Amarjothi Spinning Mills Ltd. 18- Interview with Mr. Ram Bhatnagar , VP & Head of Sales & Distribution , Raymond Limited. ARTICLE 19- Strategic Management: The Art, The science & Craft of Business by Mr. Rushin Vadhani 21- Business of Hygiene products in India by Textile Consult- ants EVENT REPORT 24- TMMA : Export Excellence and R&D Awards 2015-2016 26- Dollar Business : Business Power Series Conclave 2016-17 29- YFA : Denim Zone and China Pavilion to be highlighted on show MARKET REPORT 27- Cotton Report 28- Surat Report 30- Yarn Report 34- CMAI Apparel Index 33- SHOW CALENDAR Back Page : Raymond Back Inside : RSWM Front Inside : Raysil Page 3 : Amarjothi Page 4: Intex 2016 Page 5 : SGS Innovation Page 7 : SKBS Page 10 : Bhatia Exports Page 37 : Rieter Page 38 : Sanjay Plastic Page 39 : Varnita Tex Page 40: Non Woven Tech Asia Page 41 : Amith Garment & Vora Associates Page 42 : YFA
  • 9. 9September 2016 www.textilevaluechain.com NEWS Thehandloomssector,whichrepresents the rich diversity of India’s 2,000-year-old textiles tradition, has a hands-on advocate in Craft Revivalist and Textile Conservation- ist Madhu Jain, designer extraordinaire, whose name is synonymous with swadeshi. Madhu is a doyen in the Indian crafts sector, evident from her many partnerships over the years with Government of India’s Min- istry of Textiles. Crafts call for sustained effort. From the time she launched her label in 1987, Madhu has worked only with natural fibres that are quintessentially Indian in ethos and execu- tion. This gravitation towards traditional, organic textiles is a reflection of her per- sonal sensibility, and she has carved a niche for herself as the country’s most respected craft and textile revivalist, whose fine crea- tions and revival of rare and extinct motifs and textiles are embedded in strong Indian roots. Updating Indian Textiles Madhu has experimented extensively with textiles and continues to innovate to craft unique blends that are characteristical- ly true to her “made-in-India” natural fibres label. After travelling extensively through rural India to meet master craftsmen and weavers, Madhu’s research led her to de- velop textiles in distinctive combinations of two different weaving traditions from two states to create new textiles, high on quality and design. This seamless blending is Mad- hu’s speciality, making her a forerunner in the indigenous traditional weaves industry. Madhu has experimented with Odi- sha’s Ikkat weave, Andhra Pradesh’s Kal- amkari craft, Assamese Mekhla Chaddar, and Andhra Uppada. In keeping with her passion for eco-friendly textiles, she was in- strumental in introducing bamboo fibre as an alternative textile in India. Additionally, she has collaborated with several NGOs in India and Bangladesh that work with rural artisans and local weavers. Her innovations have resulted in a resurgence of interest in Indian’s traditional textiles. Providing Livelihoods to Artisans Increasingly, factory-produced textiles are inundating the market and fast overtak- ing the natural fibres sector, forcing artisan communities into outmigration in search of other work options. Pained to see the denu- dation of India’s traditional crafts markets, Madhu felt an urgent need to ensure these traditions would not languish and slowly die out. Madhu realised that for the traditional natural textiles industry to survive and re- tain its supremacy in urban markets, the key was to contemporise textiles while at the same time, being true to tradition. This meant relying on the dextrous skills of In- dia’s master weavers and craftsmen whose craft has been handed down to them gen- erationally. In doing so, she sources artisans who were once famous for their crafts and who still practice them. Madhu’s work has given a much-needed boost to this industry, providing employment to over 500 master weavers and craftsmen across India. After Madhu used bamboo textile as a base for the Kalamkari “Tree of Knowledge” for the 2010 Commonwealth Games Open- ing Ceremony, the Kalamkari sector has wit- nessed a 500% growth. Her exceptional con- tribution to the crafts of Andhra Pradesh is “figurative” Kalamkari, accomplished by incorporating innovative features to the traditional craft by using influences such as Raja Ravi Verma’s paintings. Madhu’s twist in design sensibility has given a new lease of life to this craft form. Popularising Craft by using Fashion as a Platform To preserve India’s endangered crafts heritage, the obvious solution is to ensure markets. Madhu has succeeded in increas- ing awareness around handcrafted textiles and craft-based clothes. To reach out to a larger, national and international audience, she uses the platform of fashion to show- case India’s heritage, and to assure urban markets for rural weavers. Next Steps Having worked with various govern- ment and NGOs in development, design, and marketing of indigenous textiles and crafts, Madhu aims to set up a chain of sup- port to ensure steady volumes of work to India’s artisans, independent of season or the vagaries of fashion. Highly regarded as a handlooms special- ist whose life quest is revitalising and rein- vigorating dying crafts, Madhu has impact- ed the sector by giving it a fresh lease of life. Patrons Government of India; J&K Govern- ment; Ministry of Textiles; Sonal Mansingh; Nita Ambani; Rani Mukerji; Vandana Lu- thra; Maneka Gandhi; Waheeda Rehman; Raveena Tandon; Juhi Chawla; Milind So- man; Neelam Pratap Rudy; Princess Maha Al Sauduri of Saudi Arabia; Mariam Fayesalle, First Lady of Senegal. Major Contributions to the Handlooms Sec- tor, Including Awards and Memberships § 1987: Launched Madhu Jain label to revive the handlooms sector. § 1987: Created a collection blending Baluchari of West Bengal with Kalakshetra motifs of Tamil Nadu. § 1996: Revived folk art Nakshi Kantha in collaboration with BRAC (Bangladesh), one of the largest NGOs in the world. § 1996: Reintroduced the legendary Dhaka Muslin, which had disappeared from India after partition. § 1997: At Miss World Pageant show- cased Nakshi Kantha and Dhaka Muslin craft, winning international acclaim. § 2000: Associate Designer Member, Fashion Design Council of India. § 2003: Launched “Projekt M” with Milind Soman to catapult Indian textiles onto the world map. § 2003: In tandem with Indian Textiles Ministry, Madhu introduced bamboo as an alternative, eco-friendly textile. § 2003: Showcased a Kalamkari collec- tion at Singapore Fashion Week. § Feb 2004: At 7th World Bamboo Con- gress New Delhi, formally introduced bam- boo-based textiles into India. § 2005: Embarked on “Kashmir Project” with J&K government to restore employ- ment lifelines to local artisans by sourcing, developing, marketing and popularising Kashmiri handicrafts in India and abroad through museums. Dr Karan Singh’s per- sonal collection in Amar Mahal museum provided critical reference points. For the “Kashmir Project” Madhu mixed traditional and contemporary design in Kashmiri handi- crafts, presenting this to leading museums in New York—Metropolitan Museum, Mu- seum of Arts and Design, American Museum of Natural History, Rubin Museum of Art. § 2005: Published “The Living Art and Madhu Jain: Craft Revivalist and Textile Conservationist
  • 10. 10 September 2016www.textilevaluechain.com Craft Tradition of Jammu and Kashmir”, a book that charts the history of Kashmiri crafts and details its myriad crafts. § 2007 Member, Culture Committee, South Asia Foundation, which promotes better understanding between SAARC na- tions through crafts and culture. § 2008: Entrepreneured a special show- ing of Great Living Traditions of Indian Weaves and Exquisite Craftsmanship with especial focus on the sari. § May 2008: Invited by J&K government to present a paper on “A Journey into the Living Arts and Crafts of J&K”, at South Asia Foundation Summit, Srinagar. § Jan 2009: Official Style and Design partner, Miss India Worldwide 2009, to pro- mote the traditional sari. § 2009: Nominated for “Marie Claire Fashion Award” for contribution to Indian crafts § April 2009: Awarded “25 Women of Excellence” FICCI FLO award in recognition of excellence in field of creative arts. § 2010: Designed a carpet for People for Animals fundraiser. § Oct 2010: In recognition of her excel- lence in revitalising the crafts sector, for the Opening Ceremony of the Commonwealth Games 2010, was given the rare honour of crafting an installation in the “Fabric of India” segment. Using the skills of 300 weavers, 500 craftsmen and 200 hand em- broidery artisans, Madhu designed and ex- ecuted a giant 115-feet eco-friendly craft in- stallation using bamboo fibre and Kalamkari craft technique. § 2011: Restored a rare khadi sari woven in prison in 1941 by Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru. § October 2012: In collaboration with Je- hangir Art Gallery (Mumbai) and Ensemble boutique, Madhu curated a retrospective of 25 years of her contribution to reviving crafts. § 2013: Curated a restrospective of mu- seum-quality textiles and craft at Ogaan, New Delhi. § 2015: Curated an exhibition, Rare Tex- tiles of Gujarat, in New Delhi, which was in- augurated by Smt. Menaka Gandhi, Union Cabinet Minister for Women & Child Devel- opment. A team of multidisciplinary researchers at Stanford University has developed skin- like fabric material that cools the body more efficiently. In today’s Science journal, the research- ers from Stanford report that they used na- noporous polyethylene to develop a textile material which aides radiative cooling while maintaining breathability, wicking and nec- essary mechanical strength. According to the report in Science, the researchers have also devised an instrument to simulate skin temperature. The use of nanoporous polyethylene fabric resulted in the lowering of skin temperature by about 2.7 degree centigrade when compared with another commonly used next-to-skin fabric. According to Yi Cui, an associate profes- sor of materials science at Stanford and the lead author of the study, the fabric effec- tively cools the person, which makes cool- ing the building unnecessary thereby saving energy. Nanoporous plastic textile transports the body heat as infrared rays due to the nanostructured polyethylene. Researchers modified the polyethylene material that is commonly used in battery development which enables it to be opaque to visible light but transparent to infrared rays so that the heat can be dissipated. According to Professor Shanhui Fan, professor of electrical engineering at Stan- ford, who co-authored the study, this re- search can lead to the development of new materials that can trap or let go infrared radiations. The research is multidisciplinary one involving photonics, nanotechnology and chemistry. Indeed, it shows that new de- velopments in advanced textiles can come from schools that are nontraditional textile strongholds, reflecting the nature of the next phase of textile research and develop- ment. Stanford Scientists Develop Skin Line Fabric By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA NEWS BHATIA EXPORTS Mr. Rajesh Bhatia Address : 389, Trichy Main road, Gugai, Salem : 6, Tamilnadu, India. Landline : +91-427-2465479 / +91-427-2465489 Mobile No : +91-98946-46789 Email : bhatiaexports@gmail.com Advt. Manufacturer of all types of yarn dyed woven fabrics in 100% Coton & PV Rayon, Melange & specialised of dobby & Fancy yarns.
  • 11. 11September 2016 www.textilevaluechain.com Skill Development – Need of an hour for Tirupur Knitting Hub’ Introduction Indian knitwear segment is witnessing tremendous growth. India has more than 65% young population below the age of 35 & most of the young population prefers to wear casual wear like t- shirts & track pants on day to day basis. In fact senior citizens seem to be inclined more towards western casual wear for morning walk, reason being the comfort & flexibility offered by knitted garments compared to woven ones. Already there is huge demand for knit- ted garments in export market. So, knitted garments forms major chunk in domestic as well as export market. Tirupur,is one the major garment clusters in India providing di- rect & indirect employment to more than 3 lakhs people. Out of In- dia’s total cotton knitwear exports earning 50%comes from Tirupur itself. The demands for knitted garments from domestic & interna- tional markets will be growing multi folds in coming future. So, in order to meet these ever growing demands, Tirupur industry has to be revived. The major hurdle in growth of Tirupur cluster is lack of availability of technically qualified managerial level manpower like professional knitting master, merchandisers and marketing per- sonnel for selling in the international market/designers etc. Skills gap analysis: In order to achieve higher control on their target market, global competition andcustomised niche markets; the managers in Tiru- pur Knitwear units need to motivate people, create new direction, generate new opportunities. They have to combine creativity, im- agination, intellect and sensitivity towards needs of new breed of employees. The strengths of these people can be fully utilized only through their involvement and co-operation which need ef- fective training and development techniques. The Knitwear unit managers need to remain self-motivated. Increased responsibility, fair recognition, due appreciation and rewards for beyond normal efforts are great motivators. Current managers are under greater scrutiny. Their model behaviour can create the spirit of excellence. They have to set personal examples for others to follow. Effective communication is the key to effectiveness of actions. It helps to obtain better support and willing involvement of team members. It is also vital in order to ensure proper appreciation of actions and constraints by the top management; thereby garnering support. Managing people is an art and lending a sincere hearing solves even the most difficult of problems. The managers are responsible both for discovering and defining their role as well as discharging the same. The bottom line thus is that the onus of fine tuning between the old and new management philosophies lies on the managers of today by which they can enhance productivity and motivation. The managerial skill gap analysis would provide solutions to overcome the prevailing skill gap, so it is important to study the possibilities of how the prevailing skills gap could be effectively narrowed. The detailed study will help in identification of various modes of train- ing that could be adopted.This would lead to empowering the or- ganizations with a strong skilled workforce, enabling them to im- prove on their productivity. This in turn would enable the knitwear exports to take up a better share in the global market, thus lending an extra avenue to boost our Indian economy. Skill development The basic skills for managing a small team can be viewed in three categories i.e. organization, leadership, and communication. Of these three, leadership is the hardest skill to acquire. Without detracting from the main work, managers should stimulate their teams with changes of focus. This includes drives for specific qual- ity improvements, mission statements, team-building activities, and delegated authority, though decisions must be made on how often to raise excitement about new issues. One of the most cited characteristics of successful managers is vision. For managers, vi- sion is a vivid idea of what the future should be. The best managers are those who recognize problems, seize opportunities, and create their own future. Many organizations across the countries have recognized that training is a strategic priority rather than a tactical response, which may be used as a catalyst for change and also as an aid to give an organization a competitive edge. Both the availability of required quality and quantity of Human Resource (HR), maintenance of such employment through training, as well as the HR’s strategic re- sponses to the worldwide changes ultimately determine the com- petitive strength of afirm within a nation or across the countries. Hence organizations in today’s world need to follow the principle “innovation-training-development-action-sustainable growth” with true concern for the meaningful development. Suggestions • Communication skill: There is significant gap in the managerial communication skills inTirupur knitwear industry. Hence it is needed to improve the communication skills of the manger to improve their performance. • Greater Management Support and Commitment: In today’s competitive environment, the management of the knitwear companies should give serious attention and effort towards training the managers in the organization. The top management has to be committed to talent development and they must take a long term approach. • Improved Budgets for Training and Development: Without suf- ficient resources any effort to improve managerial talent will be stifled. Thus return on investment and cost benefit analysis should be done to clearly demonstrate that the payback on such initiatives will be quick and significant. • Allocate Better Time Necessary to Train and Develop Managers:Knitwear organizations are exceptionally busy places and the urgent issue can push put theimportant issue. Any or- ganization wanting to develop the top management should be willing to allocate time in addition to financial resources. Mana- gerial skill development takes time on the job and off the job. This has to be budgeted and allocated properly. • Assess Individual Management Competency: While organiza- tional needs assessment are important for identifying specific skill sets individual needs assessments are important for deter- mining the competencies of individual managers.Formal assess- Shri Avinash Mayekar MD, Suvin Advisor Pvt. Ltd. COVER STORY
  • 12. 12 September 2016www.textilevaluechain.com ments, 360 degree Feedback tools and self-assessment are just a few tools that can be used to determine the managerial tal- ents necessary to succeed. • Each Knitwear Company Should Have Clear Management Skill Sets Defined Every organization has its own skill sets that they deem most important for success. Effective needs assessment can be used to identify these skill sets that can become the basis for establishing clearly defined learning objectives and processes to acquire these specific skills. Government Initiatives: Government approved aRs 6,000 crore special package for textiles & apparel sector to create one crore new jobs in 3 years, attracting investments of $11 billion and generating $30 billion in exports. The measures approved include additional incentives for duty drawback scheme for garments, flexibility in labour laws to increase productivity as well as tax and production incentives for job creation in garment manufacturing. The package breaks new ground in moving from input to outcome based incentives by in- creasing subsidy under Amended-TUFS from 15% to 25% for the gar- ment sector as a boost to employment generation. The Government of India also launched the National Skill Cer- tification & Monetary Reward Scheme to encourage skill develop- ment for youth by providing monetary rewards for successful com- pletion of approved training programs. The scheme will benefit 10 lakh youth at an approximate total cost of ₹ 1,000 Crores with an average monetary reward of ₹ 10,000 About us With the continuous efforts to serve Textile Industry, Suvin has smartly identified the need of textile industry for skilled manpower to cater to the global markets & ventured into Suvin HR Solutions LLP. We will be offering services like development of HR processes, people development & leadership development. Our unique pro- grams will benefit organisations as well as individuals to grow. Our expert team brings more than 25 years of industry experience in conducting training programs. They will develop human resource to meet business challenges with effective soft skill development programs. We are all set to fulfill the demands of Indian Textile In- dustry for good human resource & training programs COVER STORY Review on Polyester Yarn Mark History Of Polyester The History of POLYESTER” is quite interesting, which I thought needs to be pointed out before reviewing the Industry as a whole. Polyester, as a specific material, most commonly refers to a type called PET (polyethylene terephthalate) Polyesters include naturally occurring chemicals, such as in the cutin of plant cuticles, as well as synthetics through step-growth polymerization such as polybutyrate. Natural polyesters and a few synthetic ones are biodegrad- able, but most synthetic polyesters are not. Polyester is used very widely in clothing. Depending on the chemical structure, polyester can be a Thermoplastic or Thermoset. There are also polyester res- ins cured by hardeners. However, the most common polyesters are Thermoplastics. Polyester yarn is not a very old yarn as compared to conven- tional yarn like Cotton or woollen Yarn, which are much older yarns available in the market. Polyester cloth was invented by British scientists John Whin- field and James Dickson in 1941 in England. In 1945, afterWorld War II was over, the United States Company DuPont bought the right to make polyester and by 1950, a factory in Delaware was beginning to manufacture it. In 1960, in India, it was Mr. DhirubhaiAmbani and his co-brother- Mr. ChampaklalDamani, who started Reliance Commercial Corpo- ration. In 1965, the partnership ended and Dhirubhai continued the polyester business of the firm. In 1966, Reliance Textiles Industries Pvt Ltd was incorporated in Maharashtra. It established a synthetic fabrics mill in the same year at Naroda in Gujarat in 1975. Since then, the core business of Reliance Industries till today, is manufacturing of different kinds of polyester yarn. This is documented in a very interesting book called ‘The Poly- ester Prince’ by Hamish McDonald, which was published in 2011, but the book was banned in India. The book takes a balanced look at India’s own robber baron. Mr. McDonald pays tribute to Gujarati traders/ Banias in the first few chapters, by acknowledging their exuberance of speech, in- ventiveness, and commercial drive. Dhirubhai first displayed his diplomatic and negotiating skills during the Junagadh freedom struggle. At Yemen, he exploited the fact that silver content in the Rial, was higher than in the pound. Source:https://indianvanguard.wordpress.com/2011/08/12/poly- ester-prince-the-real-story-of-dhirubhai-ambanibanned-in-india/ Review Of Polyester Yarn The Analysis of Fibres, Yarns & Threads, is an essential activity for the whole fibre and yarn industry, as these are important components of the tex- tile industry. As per the fibre report, the trends favour man made fibres, yarns and threads. They have grown considerably in the recent years which has resulted in sig- nificant increase in their production and consumption. However, this rise is due to increased consumption in China which sustains global demand. But demands in fibre industry of other developed countries have decreased due to restructuring of their textile industry. Shri Saurabh Agarwal Voice: 91-22-22829696 / 22829797 Mobile: +919892337579 email: saurabh@netitb.in Web: www.thetalentmart.com
  • 13. 13September 2016 www.textilevaluechain.com The output of manmade fibre had increased in Asia by 11.9%. The consumption of wool and cotton has also increased here by 2.5%. A decline was seen in Europe and Americas at nearly 4.5% each. The growth in today’s booming markets is predicted to be restricted by energy and raw material shortages. In India, the oldest textile market is in Surat, Gujrat. In Surat there are thousands of yarn manufacturing units, which manufac- ture different kinds of yarn, ranging from cotton yarn to polyester yarn and many more. The textile industry in Surat is mainly engaged in the activities of yarn production, weaving, processing, as well as embroidery. Surat is well known for its synthetic products market. It is mainly engaged in the production and trading of synthetic textile prod- ucts. Nearly 30 million metres of raw fabric and 25 million metres of processed fabric are produced in Surat daily. The city has several textile markets that exist since times immemorial. There are many other places where the textile Industry has flourished well; places in Rajasthan, Punjab, and Karnataka like Ban- swara, Bhilwara, and Belgaum etc. The Surat textile industry has grown considerably over time. As per recent figures, textile production in Surat has grown by 10% in the last 5 years, while the market for embroidery has grown from an almost negligible amount to around Rs. 30000 million over the same period. Though there is high supply of Polyester, the demand in domes- tic market is not as much, due to tropical climate in India. In recent years, the exports have fallen, the Chinese manufacturers have also emerged as competitors to Indian manufacturers, as they are pro- ducing the same quality at lesser price. According to correspondence in May 2015 in the Business Standard, the polyester yarn Industry was expected to perform better as compared to the last few years. After tough competition from cotton last year, the manmade yarn and fabric industry is expected to grow at a higher rate of five to seven per cent in 2015-16 due to stable crude oil prices. However, it is the domestic market that will see the larger growth, as Indian synthetic yarn and fabric performance, has not been one of the best internationally. So, while companies in this segment are not expecting much from exports, the domestic market might bring back some sheen, they say. “While normal growth of five to seven per cent is antici- pated, if the economy does well, this could go up to double-digit growth,” said O P Lohia, chairman, Indo Rama Synthetics (India) Ltd. Source: http://www.business-standard.com/article/companies/polyester- sector-expects-better-year-115050600754_1.html Conclusion The Indian manmade fibre industry consists of two main sets of players: The 1st, are erstwhile textile players, and the 2nd have a presence only in manmade fibres (that is, non-diversified players). Further, there are some companies that have been established by equity contribution from the technology licensors. The Indian petrochemical companies have a presence, mainly in the fibre in- termediates segment of the fibre value chain (excluding Reliance Industries Limited, or RIL, which can be considered as a former tex- tile player). After understanding the polyester yarn industry in India for pol- yester yarn, the domestic market has become very tough for the manufacture’s to survive, hence most of the small manufacturers in Surat, especially do not just focus only on polyester yarn but other different yarn and fibres too for their survival !! COVER STORY Textile Industry, especially spinning sector is predominantly af- fected immediately by variation in supply and demand of raw mate- rial and its prices. It is known reason to all of us that more than 60 % of input cost is raw material cost. Even though this year India is largest cotton producer, availabil- ity of raw materials and their pricing are crucial concerns for spin- ners. Spinning industry is further affected by ever increasing costs of energy, availability of skilled labour and trained manpower to run plants effectively and efficiently. Therefore, making decision has also become very complex es- pecially with varied challenges posed by ever changing external environment. Textile sector of India encountered tough times from 2008, after having good business over two/three years. Effect of chang- ing global scenario is having direct impact on small decisions also, which was not the case earlier. Every change, be it exist of England from Euro zone or implementation of GST or natural/manmade ca- lamity anywhere in the world has become an important factor to be considered before making business decision or taking call for any additional investments. Every businessman aims for profits and growth. Naturally busi- nessman’s drive leads to either value additions for efficient use of available resources, investment into newer technology, expansion of capacities, developing new products, finding new usages of products inorder to reach new or different set of customers and explore new market, or alternatively finding better options for cost optimisation by way of energy saving, using different raw material, finding cheaper solutions etc. In the present scenario, the job of management or professional managers has become more challenging; it is not only managing daily affairs of business and people but to always look for finding even better ways – be it expansion, diversification, integration, entering new segments etc. Their role in business calls for taking prompt but right decisions and simultaneously be prepared for un- certain future. In the view of all the above illustrations, to survive and add val- ue to business, one needs to : • Have prompt and informed decisions • Have a gist of timely market situation and demands • Have correct information –ideal market networking and devel- oping sources • Invest into value addition • Invest into solutions offering direct energy saving • Invest in solutions for optimised use of available resources • Invest into right technology and work closely with technology provider as partner in order to see benefits such as :where di- rect energy saving is possible or comparatively less skilled or even new untrained operator can handle work. Spinning Sector brief
  • 14. 14 September 2016www.textilevaluechain.com EFFECT OF DIFFERENT WEAVES ON THERMAL RESIST- ANCE PROPERTIES SHRTING COTTON FABRIC R. G. Shrivas and L.G. Patil Department of Textiles D.K.T.E. Society’s Textile and Engineering Institute, Email*:rashmi.shrivas89@gmail.com Abstract This paper represents the new research on various comfort as- pects of woven cotton fabric. This paper aims to investigate the relationship between different fabric weave structure (weaves) and its comfort properties. In this connection seven different basic weaves as well as derivatives of basic weave structure were stud- ied. Comfort properties of fabric in terms of air permeability and thermal resistance were determined. It was found that the fabric with plain weave structure showed the highest thermal resistance making it suitable for cold climatic conditions. The crepe and 2/2 matt weave depicted the lowest thermal resistance which makes it appropriate for hot climatic conditions. Keywords: Fabric Structure, comfort, weaves, thermal resist- ance, air permeability, etc. Introduction Clothing is an integral part of human life. The primary role of clothing is to form a layer/s of barriers that protects the body against unsuitable physical environments. This protection of body fulfill number of functions like maintaining the right thermal envi- ronment to the body, which is essential for its survival and prevent- ing the body from being injured by abrasion, radiation, wind, elec- tricity, chemical and microbiological substances. These traditionally classified functions of clothing clearly indicate that it plays a very important role at the interface between human body and its sur- rounding environment in determining the subjective perception of comfort status of wearer.[1] Clothing has a number of functions like adornment, status, modesty & protection. To be competitive, modern clothing besides having good mechanical and technological properties and being of easy care, must possess good comfort characteristics. Comfort has totally replaced the durability as far as the selection of garment is concerned [1]. 1. Factors Influencing Comfort Properties of Textiles The comfort is considered as a fundamental property when a textile product is valued. The comfort characteristics of fabrics mainly depend on the structure, type of row material used, weight, moisture absorption, heat transmission and skin perception.[11] The clothing system which is suitable for one climate may not be suitable for another climate. For example, good thermal insula- tion properties are needed for clothing which is to be worn in cold climates. The thermal insulation of textiles depends on number of factors namely thickness, number of layers, drape, fiber density, flexibility of layers and adequacy of closures [1]. The main factors which are affect to the comfort properties of textiles are: Fabric Structure Yarn structure Fiber From the comfort point of view, the suitable fabric must be developed by textile technologist through the proper selection of fiber content, yarn and fabric construction techniques and finishing treatments. The fabric properties depend on fiber properties, yarn structure, fabric structure and the mechanical and chemical finish- ing given to fabric. 1.2 Thermal comfort Thermal comfort of a clothing system is associated with the thermal balance of the body and its thermoregulatory responses to the dynamic interactions with the clothing and the environment. It is necessary to design fabrics with necessary thermal properties for a specific end use. In actual wearing condition, the transmission of moisture and heat through the clothing system take place in steady state, but is continuously exposed to transients in physical activity and environmental conditions [11]. Need of thermal comfort Human body tries to maintain a constant core temperature that is 37.4₹C. The actual value of this temperature may vary slightly from person to person but it is always in a narrow range. The com- fortable surrounding environment temperature for human body in India is 21₹C. When temperature is more or less than this, body feels discomfort as a result human body needs some external agency to maintain this temperature and clothing is one of the most common devices to provide comfort in this regard. The body must be kept in thermal balance in order to maintain the required comfort lev- el; the metabolic heat generated together with the heat received from external sources must be matched by the loss from the body of an equivalent amount of heat. If the heat gain and the heat loss are not in balance then the body temperature will either rise or fall, leading to a serious threat to life [3]. Factor Affecting the Thermal Performance of Fabrics There are several factors which affects the thermal properties of fabric among which thermal insulation plays vital role in prevent- ing heat loss from body. A. Gericke and J. van der Pol [4] stated that thermal comfort is influenced by textile fabric properties such as thermal resistance. Research carried out by H. N. Yoon and A. Buckley [5] with series of polyester, cotton, and polyester/cotton blend fabrics concluded that both the fabric construction and the constituent fiber properties affect thermal transport. Further they stated that thermal insulation, air permeability, and water vapor transmission rate are dependent mainly on the fabric geometrical parameters like thickness and porosity etc. S. Gunesoglu et al [6] found that the thermal protective performance increases with the entrapped air inside the fabric in both convective and radiant ex- posures. Frydrych I. et al [7] studied thermal insulation properties COVER STORY
  • 15. 15September 2016 www.textilevaluechain.com of fabrics made of natural and manmade cellulose fibers and they found that the type of raw material and fabric structure influences the properties of the finished goods. They also stated that, there are many possibilities to create fabric with properties which influ- ence their comfort and comfort properties of woven fabrics can be achieved not only by the choice of thickness or the fabric cover fac- tor, but also by applying appropriate weaves, appropriate finishing processes and raw materials. Fabric properties like cover factor and thickness also have an impact on the thermal comfort of the fabric. Bilska et al. [8] studied the effect of weave design on thermal comfort properties of the fabric and found that plain fabrics have the highest value of ther- mal resistance following their compact structure. The compactness of the structure of plain weave reduces the porosity of the fabric, which results in lower thermal conductivity; canvas weave has a better thermal conductivity due to a comparatively open structure; and twill weave has the lowest value of thermal resistance and the highest value of thermal conductivity due to its open structure which has large floats of yarns, which is the cause behind the higher porosity of the fabric. 2. Material and Method 2/80 Ne cotton yarn was used both in warp and weft for manu- facturing of fabric. Before manufacturing of fabric all yarn tested for tensile properties, evenness, hairiness and twist level. Seven dif- ferent basic weaves as well as derivatives of basic weave structure viz. Plain, 2/2 matt, warp rib, 3/1 Twill, Herringbone twill, 8 end satin and crepe were manufactured on rapier weaving machine. The de- sign of different fabric weaves shown in Table2.1. Finishing was fol- lowed after fabric manufacturing, with normal process sequence as followed in the shirting industry. Finished fabric specimens were evaluated for fabric thickness, areal density, air permeability and thermal resistance under standard atmospheric condition. Table: 2.1 Fabric Structure/ weave Sr. No. weaves Weave design 01 Plain 02 Twill 3/1 03 Warp rib 04 Satin 05 Crepe 06 HB Twill 07 Matt Result and Discussion yarn properties Table 3.1 result for the yarn properties Yarn characteristics Cotton Count (Ne) 40.3 Tensile Strength (gf) 231.41 Elongation (%) 3.45 Hairiness Index 3.1 Unevenness 7.63 Twist Per Inch 27.2 Fabric Properties Table 3.2 Fabric Properties Weaves C o m b i n a - tion Airpermiability (Cm2/cm2. sec) Thermal Resistance Value Plain C X C 5.62 30.377 Twill 3/1 C X C 8.716 28.514 Warp rib C X C 8.716 28.514 Satin C X C 10.164 29.112 Crepe C X C 17.8 22.538 HB Twill C X C 9.174 29.735 Matt 2/2 C X C 14.35 24.504 COVER STORY
  • 16. 16 September 2016www.textilevaluechain.com 3.1 Effect of weaves on air permeability The air permeability of a fabric is closely related to the construc- tion characteristics of the yarns and fabrics in which large volumes are occupied by air. The air permeability of a fabric is a measure of how well it allows the passage of air through it and is defined as the volume of air passed in one second through 100 sq.mm of the fabric at a pressure difference of 10 mm of water [9]. Air permeability of fabric was tested according to [ASTM D737]. Figure 3.1 Effect of weave on Air permeability of fabrics As shown in figure 3.1 there is a significant effect of weaves on air permeability of fabrics. The crepe weave exhibits higher air per- meability values were as plain weave exhibits lower air permeabil- ity value as compare to other weaves. The difference observed between the air permeability values of weaves were due to difference in their characteristic covering properties. For equivalent weaving parameters, crepe weave result in a looser structure as compare to other structures, other weaves which has more firm structure than crepe weave. At the other plain weave fabric has shortest float length, hence it possesses tighter fabric structure is tight. Therefore crepe fabrics show high perme- ability than other weaves. 3.2 Effect of Weaves on Thermal Resistance Thermal Resistance of fabric was tested according to ASTM D1518. The results are represented graphically and discussed be- low. The result shows that, a different kind of weaves has influence on thermal properties of fabrics. Thermal resistance of a fabric refers to its ability to resist the heat flow through it. Lower the thermal resistance; the better will be the comfort for hot climatic conditions. The individual value plot for air permeability and weave structure is shown in fig.3.2. Figure 3.2 Effect of weaves and material on the thermal resist- ance The results depicted that the 1/1 plain weave has the highest thermal resistance. This is because of the fact that 1/1 plain weave has the maximum yarn interlacing points between warp and weft. High thermal resistance of this weave makes it suitable for cold climatic conditions. On the contrary, crepe and 2/2 matt weave showed the lowest thermal resistance because of its relatively less number of yarn interlacing points between warp and weft. Minimal thermal resistance of crepe and 2/2 matt weave makes it appropri- ate for hot climatic conditions [10]. Conclusion The research results proved that weave structure has a statisti- cally significant effect on the air permeability and thermal resist- ance of the fabric. The observed parameters contributed to the thermo-physiological comfort of the fabrics. Each weave structure has a specific pattern of yarn interlacing points between the warp and the weft. It can be concluded from the experimental results that the higher the yarn interlacing points, the lower will be the air permeability which means higher thermal resistance. The experi- ments illustrated that 1/1 plain weave has the highest thermal resist- ance among the selected weaves and hence suitable for cold cli- matic conditions. On the other contrary, crepe and 2/2 matt weaves demonstrated lower thermal resistance which makes it suitable for hot climatic conditions. REFERENCES N. Gokarneshan Fabric Structure and Design, New Age International (p) Limited, Publishers, 2004. pp. 7-39. A. Mukhopadhyay, I. C. Sharma and M. Sharma. Evaluation of comfort prop- erties of polyester-viscose suiting fabrics. Indian Journal of Fiber & Tex- tile Research, 27, March 2002, pp. 72-76. S. B. Mhetre & N. Sarada, Effect of different weaves and picks densities on thermal properties of fabric. Journal of Textile Association, March-April 2014 pp.342-335. A. Gericke & J. van der Pol, A Comparative Study of Regenerated Bamboo, Cotton and Viscose Rayon Fabrics. Part 1: Selected Comfort Properties Journal of Family Ecology and Consumer Science, 38, 2010, pp.63-73. H. N. Yoon and A. Buckley, Improved comfort polyester part 2: mechani- cal and surface properties. Textile Research Journal, 54, June 1984, pp. 357-365. S. Gunesoglu, B. Meric, and C. Gunesoglu, Thermal Contact Properties of 2-Yarn Fleece Knitted Fabrics, Fibers & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 13, 2(50), April/ June 2005, pp.46-50. I. Frydrych, G. Dziworsha and J. Bilsha, Fibbers & Textiles in Eastern Europe, October/ December 2002. Frydrych, I., Dziworska, G. and Bilska, J. Comparative analysis of the thermal insulation properties of fabrics made of natural and man-made cellulose fibers. Fibers and Textiles in Eastern Europe, 39(4), 2002, pp. 40-44. B. P. Saville, Physical Testing of Textile, Wood Head Publishing in Textiles, Cambridge, England, T209, 2000.pp 195. S. Ahmad, F. Ahmad, A. Afzal, A. Rasheed, M. Mohsin and N. Ahmad, Effect of weave structure on thermo-physiological properties of cotton fabrics, Autex Research Journal, 15, (1), March 2015, pp.30-34. http://www.slideshare.net/kotharivr/comfort-properties-of-fab- rics-5262746. COVER STORY
  • 17. 17September 2016 www.textilevaluechain.com INTERVIEW In Conversation with Mr. Rajan Premchander, MD, Amarjothi Spinning Mills Ltd., TVC felt that they are talking to any fashion colour specialist not Spinning Industrialist. Though Yarn segment is not very interesting as compare to Fashion in Textile Value Chain. But Making Yarn segment interesting it’s an Art and Sci- ence we can learn from Mr. Rajan Premchander. Amarjothi Spinning known for their wide range of colour mé- lange yarns for the readymade garment industry in India, Cambo- dia, Sri Lanka and Vietnam. Amarjothi Spinning Mills Ltd. is con- tinuously growing through technological advancement to become one of the leading producers of colour mélange, fancy yarns and dyed yarns in the Asian continent. A very productive brand with a global mindset, Amarjothi has always thrived on being different from other spinning mills in the Coimbatore-Tirupur belt with focus on product development and differentiation. In its journey to be different, various technological advancements and learning supported Amarjothi’s quest for excel- lence, one such being its association with an Italian MNC for impart- ing certain technology on quality enhancement for two years in lieu of picking up 50 per cent of their production, as increasing labour cost in Italy was detrimental to competitive production in the coun- try. “They gave us technical support to improve quality of yarn. So this was a huge difference with a little change. We learned a lot as they imparted to us better training on quality,” informs Prem. With constant upgradation, team effort and commitment to quality, the company has successfully ventured into different arenas by gaining sound knowledge in each one of them. Amarjothi is very strong as in yarn as their core product is high on demand and they have a well-equipped sample unit which pro- duces 150¬-200 shades per day… They develop peculiar and unique shades that are not available in the market and they try to compli- cate it so that it cannot be duplicated. They create colours so, their caption for this year says COLOUR CREATORS. Although the company boasts of multiple businesses globally, such as fabrics, real estate, software, animation, food products, hospitals, etc., the company’s core business is still textile, which was started in 1991 with Amarjothi being one of the few companies in India to venture into trading of mélange. The production unit fol- lowed later and now the company specializes in colour mélange, which surely sets it apart from competition. The last 3 years have been challenging for the company as the market has been tough and the competition continuously increasing. “But we are very strong as our core product is high on demand and we have a well- equipped sample unit which produces 150¬-200 shades per day. We develop peculiar and unique shades that are not available in the market and we try to complicate it so that it cannot be duplicat- ed…, this is the USP. If anyone picks up a colour from us, they find it difficult to get the same colour in the market,” claims Prem. He adds jokingly that sometimes it is even difficult for them to recreate the sample! Fighting to stay ahead of competition, the company has in the last three years ventured into fancy yarns in answer to the market demand as people are no longer looking at basics. The company offers internationally comparable shade cards with different tex- tures, blends, colours and different effects, mainly catering to the knitting industry and pushing further into the woven segment. “We have spent huge money on the shade cards and have received very positive feedback from customers. Our current spindleage capac- ity is in majorly colour mélange. We have dyeing, washing, etc. all in-house, but we also outsource some processing due to over de- mand. We utilize wind energy, have an ETP plant, a lab, fibre dye- ing and fibre mixing plant and we are very eco¬-friendly,” informs Prem. The company is into inspirational developments with its list of fancy yarns including grindle, 100 per cent glow fibres, viscose, polyester fibre yarn, mélange injections, magic grindle injections, solid dual injection, to name a few high--end offerings. The company offers internationally comparable shade cards with different textures, blends, colours and different effects, main- ly catering to the knitting industry. Constant innovation is possible through the company’s product development team that consists of around 25 people, whose core job is to work on new developments, coupled with the company’s QC department. “Whatever we introduce needs to be commercial- ly viable. Producing takes a lot of time, and also the marketing. We have a 4-point standard that we maintain throughout the produc- tion chain. Even in our fabric division, once the yarn is knitted the fabric comes for inspection, and then goes for colour and washing and then again we get it for QC. We have a stringent quality sys- tem in place and we follow all norms. If Amarjothi is getting into fabrics, it has to be glamorous, away from the usual runoff the mill fabrics in the market. Through my fancy yarn I am giving a fancier product,” maintains Prem. Such is its quality standards that the company is nominated by brands such as Next, M&S, Tesco, Levi’s, Nike, Original Marines and many more highly recognized brands. The last 2¬3 years have seen the company going in for total modernization rather than expansion, replacing its older machines with new technology, which is also helping the company in times of shortage of labour. Growing modernisation demands for its work- force to be trained accordingly, which the company is already do- ing through animation at its training centre by making smaller mod- ules and promoting interactive learning. “I have been conducting training through animation for different industries. At the KSRTC, I am training 14 lakh people through animation that is Government- approved. So why shouldn’t I train my people through animation,” reveals Prem, as the group also has a very successful venture in the Melange yarns & Vibrant Colours, the Code of Amarjothi Mr. Rajan Premchander, MD, Amarjothi Spinning Mills Ltd.
  • 18. 18 September 2016www.textilevaluechain.com animation industry. Nonetheless, like others, the company faces its share of chal- lenges such as the quality of products, right pricing and also its timely delivery. But the company through its service team ensures a smoother transition for its customers, whether through its on- line¬ check of order status or by being responsive to its customers’ needs. Also, facilitating further is the growing demand for experi- mentation of fibre that keeps on evolving with various segments such as ladies, innerwear, children, babies, men, etc. By making its mark in the market for its quality, innovation and service, Amarjothi has made its niche in the market and is being recognized for its product offerings which are unlike any other in the market. Send- ing 30 per cent of its produce for exports to markets such as Cam- bodia, Ethiopia, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh and Vietnam and rest 70 per cent to the domestic market, mostly used for garments exported to western countries, the company is looking towards more mod- ernization and growth, besides newer countries to conquer. During the launch event of Champion’s Collection of Raymond, we candidly asked few questions TVC: What’s Vision & Purpose behind the new champions col- lection launch ? RB: The sole reason to launch Champions collection is our Chair- man & Managing Director – Gautam Hari Singhania who is a true champion. The entire collection showcased at the launch is inspired by him. The collection is dynamic with a versatile product mix that showcases the expertise Raymond has in product development and innovation. Mr. Singhania secured a total of 10 podiums in the entire season of Ferrari Challenge Series Europe Championship 2015 and stood 2nd in overall standings in the entire season which is the first ever person to achieve this feat ever in the debut season. TVC: What’s USP about collection as compared to your current brand in the market. RB: The entire collection has All Wool, Wool Rich, Poly Wool, PW TR, Cotton/Linen and range of Innovative fibers & Yarns. A ver- satile range designed with the spirit of leadership to create its own identity. The entire collection range is inspired by different race wins like Monza, Budapest, Le Castellet, Imola, Valencia, Mugello and Jubilee. TVC: What’s your Distribution Strategy ? RB: The champions collection will be available across all leading The Raymond Shops in the country. We have currently more than 750 stores across 380 towns. TVC: What is your targeted Revenue of next one year? RB: We are targeting a total revenue of 65 crores this year only from the Champions collection range. TVC: Send Collection details of each sub brands RB: Monza – This range offers products with excellent features and value proposition. Includes 2 products – 1. New trend setting collection in Poly wool and 2. An innovative product with excellent stretch and recovery feature. Budapest – This range is a collection of cotton and linen aligned as per latest colours and designs Le Castellet – This range offers fine poly wool blended fabrics in super 90s and super 100s with innovative features. Imola – This range includes superior fabric with unique quali- ties. Fine fabric crafted from compact yarns with rich look and outstanding design clarity. World class range of jacketing fabrics designed in new colour combinations and design patters. Valencia – This range caters to luxurious fabrics crafted for spe- cial occasions. Ceremonial fabrics with unique design elements like jacquards, glitter yarn effect, shiny textural patterns and unique placement designs. Also few fabrics crafted from Kroy wool with easy care features. Mugello – The collection is of high end products crafted from noble fibers with luxurious handle and rich look. The range offers ultimate black fabric in the world, fine suiting fabric crafted from vicuna and wool. Luxurious suiting fabric made from Guanaco fiber and wool, fine fabric crafted from Yak fiber and wool, fine fabric made from cashmere and wool silk and super 180s wool. Jubilee – A special collection created with the essence of charm and festivity to cater to a unique range. Rich sheen and fabulous handle has been fused with the creativity of designs. Mr. Ram Bhatnagar Vice President & Head Sales & Distribution, Raymond Limited INTERVIEW Raymond : Brand Launch of “ Champion’s Collection”
  • 19. 19September 2016 www.textilevaluechain.com Strategic Management: The Art, The Science & The Craft of Business Business (or Strategic) management is the art, science, and craft of formulating, implementing and evaluating cross-functional decisions that will enable an organization to achieve its long-term objectives. It is the process of specifying the organization’s mis- sion, vision and objectives, developing policies and plans, often in terms of projects and programs, which are designed to achieve these objectives and then allocating resources to implement. Stra- tegic management seeks to coordinate and integrate the activities of the various functional areas of a business in order to achieve long-term organizational objectives. A balanced scorecard is often used to evaluate the overall performance of the business and its progress towards objectives. Strategic management is the highest level of managerial activ- ity. Strategies are typically planned, crafted or guided by the Chief Executive Officer, approved or authorized by the Board of direc- tors and then implemented under the supervision of the organiza- tion’s top management team or senior executives. Strategic man- agement provides overall direction to the enterprise and is closely related to the field of Organization Studies. In the field of business administration it is useful to talk about “strategic alignment” be- tween the organization and its environment or “strategic consist- ency”. According to Arieu“There is strategic consistency when the actions of an organization are consistent with the expectations of management and these in turn are with the market and the con- text.” Three-step strategy formulation process is sometimes referred to as determining where the organization or business is now, deter- mining where it wants to go and then suggesting how to get there. Strategy formulation : • Performing a situation analysis, self-evaluation and competi- tor analysis: both internal and external; both micro-environmental and macro-environmental. • Concurrent with this assessment, objectives are set. These objectives should be parallel to a timeline; some are in the short- term and others on the long-term. This involves crafting vision statements (long term view of a possible future), mission state- ments (the role that the organization gives itself in society), overall corporate objectives (both financial and strategic), strategic busi- ness unit objectives (both financial and strategic) and tactical ob- jectives. • These objectives should, in the light of the situation analysis, suggest a strategic plan. The plan provides the details of how to achieve these objectives. Strategy Implementation : • Allocation and management of sufficient resources (financial, personnel, time, technology support) • Establishing a chain of command or some alternative struc- ture (such as cross functional teams) • Assigning responsibility of specific tasks or processes to spe- cific individuals or groups • It also involves managing the process. This includes monitor- ing results, comparing to benchmarks and best practices, evaluat- ing the efficacy and efficiency of the process, controlling for vari- ances, and making adjustments to the process as necessary. • When implementing specific programs, this involves acquir- ing the requisite resources, developing the process, training, pro- cess testing, documentation, and integration with (and/or conver- sion from) legacy processes. In order for a policy to work, there must be a level of consist- ency from every person in an organization, including from the man- agement. This is what needs to occur on the tactical level of man- agement as well as strategic. Strategy Formulation vs Strategy Implementation Following are the main differences between Strategy Formula- tion and Strategy Implementation- Shri Rushin H.Vadhani AGM – Market Research & Product Development AYM Syntex Limited (Formely Welspun Syntex Ltd) BRAND STRATEGY
  • 20. 20 September 2016www.textilevaluechain.com Strategy Evaluation : • Measuring the effectiveness of the organizational strat- egy, it’s extremely important to conduct a SWOT analysis to figure out the strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats (both in- ternal and external) of the entity in question. This may require to take certain precautionary measures or even to change the entire strategy. In corporate strategy, Johnson and Scholes present a model in which strategic options are evaluated against three key success criteria: • Suitability (would it work?) • Feasibility (can it be made to work?) • Acceptability (will they work it?) One of the most important tool of strategic management along with SWOT-Analysis, is the matrix developed by BCG- Boston Con- sultancy Group.BCG-Matrix also called as growth-share matrix, is a corporate planning tool, used to portray firm’s brand portfolio or SBUs on a quadrant along relative market share axis (horizontal axis) and speed of market growth (vertical axis) axis. Growth-share matrix is a business tool, which uses relative market share and industry growth rate factors to evaluate the po- tential of business brand portfolio and suggest further investment strategies. The analysis requires that both measures be calculated for each SBU-Strategic Business Unit. The dimension of business strength, relative market share, will measure comparative advantage indi- cated by market dominance. The key theory underlying this is exist- ence of an experience curve and that market share is achieved due to overall cost leadership. BCG matrix has four cells, with the horizontal axis representing relative market share and the vertical axis denoting market growth rate. The mid-point of relative market share is set at 1.0. if all the SBU’s are in same industry, the average growth rate of the industry is used. While, if all the SBU’s are located in different industries, then the mid-point is set at the growth rate for the economy. Resources are allocated to the business units according to their situation on the grid. The four cells of this matrix have been called as stars, cash cows, question marks and dogs. Each of these cells represents a particular type of business. 10x 1X 0.1 x Figure: BCG Matrix 1. Stars- Stars represent business units having large market share in a fast growing industry. They may generate cash but because of fast growing market, stars require huge investments to maintain their lead. Net cash flow is usually modest. SBU’s located in this cell are attractive as they are located in a robust industry and these busi- ness units are highly competitive in the industry. If successful, a star will become a cash cow when the industry matures. 2. Cash Cows- Cash Cows represents business units having a large market share in a mature, slow growing industry. Cash cows require little investment and generate cash that can be utilized for investment in other business units. These SBU’s are the corporation’s key source of cash, and are specifically the core business. They are the base of an organization. These businesses usually follow stability strate- gies. When cash cow s loose their appeal and move towards dete- rioration, then a retrenchment policy may be pursued. 3. Question Marks- Question marks represent business units having low relative market share and located in a high growth industry. They require huge amount of cash to maintain or gain market share. They re- quire attention to determine if the venture can be viable. Question marks are generally new goods and services which have a good commercial prospective. There is no specific strategy which can be adopted. If the firm thinks it has dominant market share, then it can adopt expansion strategy, else retrenchment strategy can be adopted. Most businesses start as question marks as the company tries to enter a high growth market in which there is already a mar- ket-share. If ignored, then question marks may become dogs, while if huge investment is made, then they have potential of becoming stars. 4. Dogs- Dogs represent businesses having weak market shares in low- growth markets. They neither generate cash nor require huge amount of cash. Due to low market share, these business units face cost disadvantages. Generally retrenchment strategies are adopt- ed because these firms can gain market share only at the expense of competitor’s/rival firms. These business firms have weak market share because of high costs, poor quality, ineffective marketing, etc. Unless a dog has some other strategic aim, it should be liqui- dated if there is fewer prospects for it to gain market share. Num- ber of dogs should be avoided and minimized in an organization. Limitations of BCG Matrix : The BCG Matrix produces a framework for allocating resources among different business units and makes it possible to compare many business units at a glance. But BCG Matrix is not free from limitations, such as- 1. BCG matrix classifies businesses as low and high, but generally businesses can be medium also. Thus, the true nature of busi- ness may not be reflected. 2. Market is not clearly defined in this model. 3. High market share does not always leads to high profits. There are high costs also involved with high market share. 4. Growth rate and relative market share are not the only indica- tors of profitability. This model ignores and overlooks other in- dicators of profitability. 5. At times, dogs may help other businesses in gaining competi- tive advantage. They can earn even more than cash cows some- times. 6. This four-celled approach is considered as to be too simplistic. Benefits of Strategic Management : There are many benefits of strategic management and they include identification, prioritization, and exploration of opportu- nities. For instance, newer products, newer markets, and newer forays into business lines are only possible if firms indulge in stra- tegic planning. Next, strategic management allows firms to take an objective view of the activities being done by it and do a cost ben- BRAND STRATEGY
  • 21. 21September 2016 www.textilevaluechain.com efit analysis as to whether the firm is profitable. Just to differentiate, by this, we do not mean the financial ben- efits alone (which would be discussed below) but also the assess- ment of profitability that has to do with evaluating whether the business is strategically aligned to its goals and priorities. The key point to be noted here is that strategic management al- lows a firm to orient itself to its market and consumers and ensure that it is actualizing the right strategy. Financial Benefits It has been shown in many studies that firms that engage in strategic management are more profitable and successful than those that do not have the benefit of strategic planning and strate- gic management. When firms engage in forward looking planning and careful evaluation of their priorities, they have control over the future, which is necessary in the fast changing business landscape of the 21st century. It has been estimated that more than 100,000 businesses fail in the US every year and most of these failures are to do with a lack of strategic focus and strategic direction. Further, high performing firms tend to make more informed decisions because they have considered both the short term and long-term consequences and hence, have oriented their strategies accordingly. In contrast, firms that do not engage themselves in meaningful strategic planning are often bogged down by internal problems and lack of focus that leads to failure. Non-Financial Benefits The section above discussed some of the tangible benefits of strategic management. Apart from these benefits, firms that en- gage in strategic management are more aware of the external threats, an improved understanding of competitor strengths and weaknesses and increased employee productivity. They also have lesser resistance to change and a clear understanding of the link between performance and rewards. The key aspect of strategic management is that the problem solving and problem preventing capabilities of the firms are en- hanced through strategic management. Strategic management is essential as it helps firms to rationalize change and actualize change and communicate the need to change better to its employ- ees. Finally, strategic management helps in bringing order and dis- cipline to the activities of the firm in its both internal processes and external activities. In recent years, virtually all firms have realized the importance of strategic management. However, the key difference between those who succeed and those who fail is that the way in which strategic management is done and strategic planning is carried out makes the difference between success and failure. Of course, there are still firms that do not engage in strategic planning or where the planners do not receive the support from management. These firms ought to realize the benefits of strategic management and ensure their longer-term viability and success in the marketplace. Key References : • Perspectives on Strategies – Boston Consultancy Group by Carl W.Stern • https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki • www.strategicmanagementguide.com • www.insead.edu • www.strategicmanagementreview.com • Business Strategy : Managing Uncertainty, Opportunity & Enterprise by J.C.Spender • Reference Case studies on Strategic Management *Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed in this article are those of the author in his personal capacity of knowledge & perspectives on the mentioned subject. BRAND STRATEGY BusinessofHygieneProductsinIndia–New Business, New Product, New Opportunity Dr. Prabhakar Bhat and Mr. B.S. Pancholi (Textiles Consultant) Introduction: Various new products are hitting the market in the recent past in India and one of the most exciting products catching the atten- tion of investors are hygiene applications. This has a global mar- ket size of US$80 billion estimated for the year 2015. Though they originated in developed in countries their spread across the globe is clearly visible and today developing countries have the highest growth rate. In Europe and America the market has matured and growth is near stagnant. Asia Pacific, Middle East and Africa are showing high growth rate mainly because of increase in per capita income and low penetration level so far. Out of various products under hygiene the major market share is of baby diapers, sanitary napkins and adult incontinence. No doubt wipes are the other category calling attention of investors due to innovation and flushable product development in personal care wipes. Global Market According to UN estimate current world population is above 7 bn and it is likely to touch 9 bn by 3050 and 11 billion by 2100. No doubt the child birth rate is reducing at most of the regions ex- cept Africa. The consumption of hygiene products is depending on the population, their per capita income and the education or the awareness. Of the total population 49.6% is of female and 7.6% is of aged above 65 years. The birth rate stands at 1.9% or 133 million children born every year or close to 200 million is the child popula- tion at 0 – 2 age group. Of the total US$80bn market of hygiene products, according to Euromonitor, US$43bn is of baby diaper, followed by sanitary napkins and adult incontinence. Sanitary napkin market is expected to reach US$42.7bn by 2022 of which Asia Pacific having a share of 48.9% owing to increasing awareness and adoption of better hy-
  • 22. 22 September 2016www.textilevaluechain.com giene practices at China, Japan and others (as per the report of Al- lied Market Research). The future growth in hygiene products is obviously in Asia and Africa. Fig. 1. World population 1750 – 2050 Fig.2. Global Market of Hygiene Products Indian Market Indian market for hygiene products is at the verge of pace change especially for baby diapers and sanitary napkins with their penetration level being 2% and 12% (? – this figure quoted at various sources remain unchanged during the last few years though mar- ket size estimation speaks higher level) respectively. The estima- tion of population of babies below 2 years in India is about 70.2 mn. At 2% penetration level the yearly consumption should have been INR15bn at 3pcs/day/baby usage and at INR 10/pc. But the market size data from different sources indicate at INR 30bn in 2015. That means our penetration level has crossed 4% in baby diaper. Similarly the sanitary napkin market penetration is question- able. India has 355mn female population in the menstruation age group (as per 2011 report). That means at 12% penetration level 42.6mn ladies should use napkins. In 2011 the population was 1.22bn and in 2016 it is 1.33bn if female population is projected in that ratio then number of female in menstruation age is 387mn. According to NPCS report the sanitary napkin market is expected to touch INR45.9bn by 2017. If a lady uses 3pcs/day for 4 days having 13 cy- cles per year and at INR3.5/pc of sanitary napkin the penetration level works out to 21.56% by 2017 (change in women population from 2016 to 2017 is neglected in approximation). Interestingly the hygiene products in India are maintaining a growth rate well above 20% for the last 5-6 years. There is no clear data available in terms of percentage use of adult incontinence in India. The population of persons above 70 years in India is increasing year after year; 5.8% of India’s popula- tion is above 65 years and their physical mobility falls down from 94% in age group of 60-64 for men to 72% by 80 years. The use of adult diaper is still considered as taboo; however the awareness of its usage is growing. The market of adult diapers in India can best be explained by example of Nobel Hygiene Pvt. Ltd. which started in 2010 and today it has 5 European machines with a turnover of INR 1.25bn. Every year at least one machine is added for making adult diapers. However, major market is still with institutional buy- ers, limiting to hospitalized patients. At the outset one can say that India is at the verge of rapid growth in future in the area of hygiene products. Market expansion BOMB is about to explode, it is just a matter of time! New Business If anyone in India is thinking of starting a new business as a di- versification or due to attraction of high profit margin or thinking of entry into the product segment at right time or for using exist- ing market network or as new product into the basket of existing business or planning for new business for the young generation in the family, hygiene products are the right choice. It is because the awareness in use of these products for health and hygiene, con- venience, free from embarrassment, comfortness and many more has reached every corner of the society, thanks to media and the Government of India initiative. Fast growth of electronic media and spread of organized retailing to small towns supported by e-mar- keting are creating excellent platform for easy promotion of new brands; educating the customer is cost effective. The new entrants needn’t be scared of MNC bands. Indian market has resemblance to that of China in terms of size, growth pattern and economic sta- tus, may be last two aspects compared to status 2-3 decades back. The middle class of India has high purchase power and passion for modern and comfortable products. Every year 1% of the population adds to the middle class which is equal to 13mn, a huge size for promotion of any new product. Let the calculation be done the other way. Each of these 3 prod- ucts under hygiene products is growing at 20-22%; let it be consid- ered as 20% for calculation purpose. Baby diaper market was INR 30 billion in 2015 and addition of 20% for 2016 that means INR 6 billion or scope for additional production of 600 million pieces. A state-of art machine in the market produces 162 million pieces in a year at the rate of 500pcs/min and 22.5 hrs a day. This shows that every year 3-4 new machines can be added in baby diaper segment. If the same logic is used for sanitary napkins, 20% growth rate for INR 40bn market an addition of INR 8bn every year. When a new entrant invests on machine in all probability the machine speed will not be more than 800 pcs/min which will produce 259mn pcs/yr having sales value (@INR3.5/pc) INR 0.9 bn/yr. Here again scope for adding machines could be 9/yr. In adult diaper the current manufacturers are adding machines regularly. The scope therefore in this business is very high and no need of any fear for entering; one has to understand the market dynamics before entering. A rough estimate of investment is given in table 1. Product Machine cost in INR (millions) Project cost in INR (millions) apprx* Sanitary Napkin 10 to 250 20 to 400 Baby Diaper 40 to 400 70 to 600 Adult Diaper 50 to 400 75 to 600 Maternity Pads 10 to 200 18 to 350 Hospital Under Pads 17 to 150 25 to 250 Table 1. Investment Required for Hygiene Products The figures for project cost in the table 1 are excluding land and building cost, in other words it includes plant and machines and TECHNICAL TEXTILE
  • 23. 23September 2016 www.textilevaluechain.com working capital. Cost wise machines are available in wide range of and selection depends on investment capacity, the type of prod- ucts to be manufactured and business approach. The profitability ranges from 25% to 75% of the MRP, again depending on the busi- ness plan of the company. No doubt this is a very technical product; though not very complicated, familiarizing the same before invest- ment is a must. New Product: The current players are continuing in business and for most of the others it can be a new business or new product. These prod- ucts are used for personal hygiene and the customer will directly experience the comfort or uncomfortness it. The product is used at sensitive area of the body and customer is very cautious about any visible embarrassment or any inconvenience in usage. Any botheration in use may lead to switch over of the product, espe- cially the customers from urban area who understands it. Hence product design is very important. More than 80% of market share is dominated by MNCs. They have many patents on various features of the products. Simple copying of the features will be disastrous. The investor has to decide his product profile carefully. There are different aspects need to be considered while deciding the product profile. Any general guideline in this regard would be misleading; involving experts is the only solution for success in this business. All the three products under discussion in the article have a common function i.e. absorbing a fluid, blood or urine. Its rate of discharge is different, quantity is different, fit in use is different and hence structure is different. All of them use a top sheet made of nonwoven or aperture film, a core consisting pulp with or without SAP or air laid, and a bottom sheet as barrier for fluid. Many other components are included that are product specific. The absorbency during usage purely depends on design of the product, apart from the type of raw materials used. Design of structure is the most cru- cial part of the product. Machine is custom built for this purpose and flexibility in changing this later will be limited. For the same product there are varieties of raw materials avail- able. Selection of them influences aesthetic as well as functional properties, in addition to cost. For example top sheet is mostly non- woven in 15 to 25 gsm; they are available in S, SS, SSS, air through, ES Air through, carded, etc. and SMS, SSMMSS, and many more com- binations for other applications. They are available with treatments for quick absorption and itching free, rashes free or embossed to 3D, embossed but without 3D effect, and many more; the products with different features keep on flowing to the market. Selection of them is critical and thoughtful process. There are at least 5 to 15 different raw materials in a product, their selection, dimension, position, design, synchronization can only make the product suc- cessful in the market. Most of the raw materials are available from Indian sources. There are number of companies in the world who supply the machine, especially in China. They are available in all categories and in all price range, though not a single one in India. Machine costing as low as INR 4mn to 0.3bn are available. Selection of them is not only crucial for product quality and features but also for product cost. Each machine is customized as per the product profile and the requirement of the customer. Since machines are highly automatic and all operations are synchronized a little failure in it can lead to lot of wastages. Hence selection of machine has to be done very carefully. But beauty of these machines is, operations are made simple and maintaining them is not very critical. Apart from these three there products few more products un- der hygiene applications have good potential for investment. Wet wipes for various applications, maternity pads, and hospital under pads have made their entry in the market. The breast pads, shoul- der pads, under arm pads, cotton swabs, etc. are the products that will be seen in the market near future. New Opportunities: Hygiene products are excellent opportunities for business di- versification or for new investment. The profit margin can be very high and need not to worry much for major brands in market. The investor has to plan how to position himself in the market. In Hong Kong the per capita usage of sanitary napkin in 2015 was 182 (Eu- romonitor) while it is much less in India. China had 1200 brands from 506 companies in baby diaper segment before 2013. It added 200 more brands in 2 years, both domestic and foreign. The mar- ket share of 10 brands in China is about 80% and rest is of others, interestingly the top brand is a domestic one. In India there are only three countable brands in baby diaper and sanitary napkins and hence ample scope is available for local brands to occupy the market space. The growth drivers for these products are not just the spread of awareness but the emergence of social media reaching to rural market, new buzz in the market, e-commerce and organized retail- ing. E-commerce as well is reaching to rural India; it has caught-up well in urban India, and hygiene products are one of the common products because there is no need to personally observe the prod- uct before purchase. India’s e-commerce market is expected to reach US$ 220 billion in terms of gross merchandise value (GMV) and 530 million shoppers by 2025, led by faster speeds on reliable telecom networks, faster adoption of online services and better va- riety as well as convenience – McKinsey Global Institute. Research firm Nielsen projected that rural India’s FMCG market will surpass the US$ 100 billion mark by 2025. Market share of the hygiene products in urban is more than ru- ral mass. In 1951, the urban population of India was 62mn, 17% of the total population. By 2011 the urban population was 377 mn or 31%, it is estimated to be 42.5% by 2025. With more literacy and more job creations in cities the migration will boost up in near future. This migration adds to the opportunity for hygiene products market. India’s female workforce participation is growing at the rate of 5.6% compared to 3% of males in urban or compared to 2% of female in rural areas (2011 data); this might have improved further by now. This will support the growth of feminine hygiene and baby diaper market. Conclusion: The business of disposable hygiene products in India is a lucra- tive proposal. The business cycle is fast approaching the threshold point of rapid growth, a right time to enter the market. Anyone planning to diversify into new products or planning for new busi- ness or intends to add new products to the existing basket, dis- posable hygiene products are the right choice. A huge domestic market is available to grab, presence of MNCs is not a worry, and enormous space is available for new players. The investor has to plan properly, select a right product profile, do homework for raw material selection, not to follow herd mentality in machine selec- tion, and be ready for establishing his own marketing network. A huge opportunity is in front of the investor, customer is still looking for right product. Hence the opportunity for business in hygiene products is plen- ty, many call it as “Gold Mine”. TECHNICAL TEXTILE
  • 24. 24 September 2016www.textilevaluechain.com The Association’s Export Awards Scheme covers the following categories of Awards :- 1) Apex Export Award 2) Segment Export Awards for each of the major sectors of the Textile Machinery Industry i.e. (i) Textile Machinery Sector (ii) Parts and Accessories Sector (iii) Textile Testing, Monitoring & Controlling Instruments Sec- tor 3) Special Export Awards: Category-wise The Association also presents Research and Development Awards for indigenous development of new technology/processes under different categories in the field of Textile Machinery Industry. 1) EXPORT EXCELLENCE AWARDS : The Association received Ten nominations for Export Excellence Awards. These nominations were evaluated by the Awards Committee of the Association and selected the following win- ners. a) Apex Export Award : This year the jury decided to Apex award to two member be- cause of slight marks variation The first Apex Award Winner is : Rieter India Pvt. Ltd., Pune During the year 2015-16 Rieter India Pvt. Ltd. exported Textile Spinning Machinery to the tune of Rs.437 Crores which formed 48% of the total turnover. The countries to which they had exported to are Switzerland, Netherlands, Malaysia, Germany, Czech Republic, China and Vietnam etc. Recipient of the Award is : Mr. Aananda Nair , Vice President After Sales Service of the Company. The second Apex Award winner is : Lakshmi Machine Works Ltd., Coimbatore During the year 2015-16 Lakshmi Machine Works Ltd. exported Textile Spinning Machinery and Parts to the tune of Rs.523 Crores which formed 24% of the total turnover. The countries to which they have exported to are Bangladesh, Vietnam, Indonesia, China, Turkey, Nepal, Pakistan, Bahrain, Thailand, Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda etc.. Recipient of the Award is : Mr. C. Arunachalam, Senior General Manager-Sales (Global) of the Company b) Segment Export Awards : i) Machinery Sector :- WinneroftheAwardis:TruetzschlerIndiaPvt.Ltd.,Ahmedabad During the year 2015-16, Truetzschler India Pvt. Ltd. have ex- ported Spinning Machinery to the tune of Rs.88 Crores which formed 16% of the total turnover. The countries to which they have exported to are Germany, Brazil, Iran, China, USA, Austria and Ja- pan. Recipients of the Award is : Mr. Kashyap Bhavsar – General Manager Finance of the Company. ii) For Parts & Accessories Sector : Winner of the Award is : Lakshmi Card Clothing Mfg. Co. Pvt. Ltd., Coimbatore During the year 2015-16, Lakshmi Card Clothing Mfg. Co. Pvt. Ltd. exported their Card Clothing and Card Room Accessories worth Rs.27 Crores which formed 22% of the total turnover. The re- gions to which they had exported their products are Far East, Asia, Middle East, Africa and South America. Recipient of the Award is : Mr. R. Jagadeesan, Vice-President- Corporate Administration of the Company. iii) For Textile Testing, Monitoring & Controlling Instruments Sec- tor : Winner of the Award is : Premier Evolvics Pvt. Ltd., Coimbatore During the year 2015-16, Premier Evolvics Pvt. Ltd. exported Textile Testing, Monitoring & Controlling Instruments to the tune of Rs.17 Crores which formed 22% of the total turnover. The coun- tries to which they had exported to are Bangladesh, China, Viet- nam, Brazil, Turkey, Indonesia, and Nepal. Recipient of the Award is : Mr. C.R. Srinivasan, Vice-President of the Company. c) Special Export Awards :- i) Weaving Preparatory & Weaving Machinery Sector :-Winner of the Award is: Peass Industrial Engineers Pvt. Ltd., Navsari During the year 2015-16, Peass Industrial Engineers Pvt. Ltd. exported Weaving Machinery to the tune of Rs.23 Crores which formed 31% of the total turnover. They had exported their products to various Countries. Major export destinations are Vietnam, Bang- ladesh, Indonesia, China, Pakistan, Turkey, Kenya, Nepal, Egypt Iran Thailand etc. As there was no recipient from the Company present at the function, the Award will be sent to their Company. ii) Processing Machinery Sector :- Winner of the Award is : Dhall Enterprises & Engineers Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad During the year 2015-16, Dhall Enterprises & Engineers Pvt. Ltd. exported Textile Processing Machinery to the tune of Rs.22 Crores which formed 36% of the total turnover. The countries to which they had exported to are Bangladesh, Ethiopia and Turkey. As there was no recipient from the Company present at the function, the Award will be sent to their Company. iii) Parts and Accessories Sector :- Winner of the Award is : InspirOn Engineering Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad During the year 2015-16, InspirOn Engineering Pvt. Ltd. export- ed Textile Machinery Parts and Accessories to the tune of Rs.22 Crores which formed 53% of the total turnover. The countries to which they have exported to are Germany, Italy, Spain, Indonesia, Turkey, China Thailand, Netherlands, Bangladesh etc. Recipient of the Award is : Mr. Sanjay R. Kowarkar, Vice-Presi- dent – Sales & Marketing of the Company. iv) Small Scale Sector – Textile Machinery TEXTILE MACHINERY MANUFACTURERS’ ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Citation of Export Excellence and R&D Awards 2015-16 POST EVENT REPORT
  • 25. 25September 2016 www.textilevaluechain.com Winner of the Award is : Palod Himson Machines Pvt. Ltd., Surat During the year 2015-16, Palod Himson Machines Pvt. Ltd. ex- ported Textile Machinery worth Rs.3 Crores which formed 25% of the total turnover. The country which they had exported to is Iran, Nepal, Rusia and Sri Lanka. Recipient of the Award is : Mr. Pratik R. Bachkaniwala, Direc- tor of the Company. 2) RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT AWARDS: Four members nominations were received for five product de- velopments for R&D Awards. The Jury considered three nomina- tions eligible for the Award for their R&D efforts for the year 2015- 16. The winner are : Lakshmi Machine Works Ltd., Coimbatore for their develop- ment of “Draw Frame LDAZ” . The newly developed “Draw Frame LDAZ” has various unique features such as 4/3 drafting system, Duo Digital processor auto levelling and sliver monitoring. The “Draw Frame LDAZ” is with 4-over-3 drafting arrange- ment with pressure bar, wherein the reduced web travel distance after drafting guarantees less sliver breakages and higher delivery speeds. Dual digital Processor (feed & delivery) in LDAZ ensures the accurate functioning of the autoleveller even at the higher delivery speeds. The Online Quality Monitoring System displays the quality parameters like U%,CV%,A%, 1Meter CV% and spectrogram. Hence the quality of the delivered sliver is assured with increase produc- tion of 25-40% and reduces the delivery breaks by 10-15/%. This prod- uct is Patented and LMW has accreditation under ISO 9001 & 14001 Standards with OHSAS 18001 certification. Recipient of the Award is : Mr. R. Satheesh Kumar Team Lead- er, Draw Frame - R&D - of the Company The next R&D Award winner is MAG Solvics Pvt. Ltd., Coimbatore for their development “Ac- cuTrash” Automatic Trash Separator Trash in cotton has the impact right from the ginning till yarn & fabric production. Commercial decision in cotton procurement and yarn realization in spinning mills is dependent on the percentage of trash preset in the cotton. The “AccuTrash” is a testing equipment developed by the MAG Solvics has the minimum manual intervention, Automatic & accu- rate Trash measurement through Gravimetric method. It measures real Trash content by actual extraction using buoyancy separation technique by use of air current. Air current is automatically adjusted for better Trash separation on continues basis. It has optimal sam- ple size and testing speed. Faster testing: single pass most of the time and has long term data storage and analysis. This standalone product ; can be integrated with High Volume Fibre Tester. 80% of HVT is supplied with AccuTrash; which shows the acceptability of this instrument. It benefits to fixing the price during cotton procurement, set- ting up machine/process parameters in spinning preparatory, As- sessment of yarn realization, Quality of the products (Yarn & Gray fabric) and improves working performance in spinning and fabric forming. Output from this product also helps in wastage reduction, Capital Cost reduction, Value addition and Labour. Recipient of the Award is : Mr. Manikanda Murthy, Managing Director of the Company. The next R&D Award winner is : The Indian Card Clothing Co. Ltd., Pune to a “Device for measur- ing Height of Revolving Flat Tops On Card of a Carding Machine” One of the key factors required for consistent yarn quality is the proximity between the revolving flat tops and the cylinder clothing. The On Card flat measurement system developed by ICC enables an accurate measurement of the height of the tops in position on the card. With the aid of a digital dial and a proprietary software, the flat tops can be measured and only those tops, which require leveling may be selected for re-sharpening to achieve the desired tolerance in the flat top height. Measurements of the revolving flat tops are transmitted on a data storing Programmable Logic Con- troller or computer removing the possibility of any transcription errors which occurs if the measurement is done manually. The soft- ware enables the data to be analyzed and identifies those revolving flat tops which need correction. The precise sharpening for only the relevant revolving flat tops is possible, thereby enhancing the life of the tops, maintaining consistency of the card sliver reducing wastage of fibre and improving power consumption and labour productivity. Recipient of the Award is : Mr. Ashok Kumar Pal, General Man- ager ( Product Application) of the Company. POST EVENT REPORT