1. Effect of fabric softener on
properties of a single jersey
knitted fabric made of cotton
and spandex yarn
Roqaya Sadek
Textile Engineering Department, Mansoura University, Mansoura, Egypt
Abstract
Purpose – The purpose of this research is to study the effect of softener treatment on plain jersey
fabrics with properties made of cotton and spandex yarn.
Design/methodology/approach – Samples with 100 percent cotton yarns, spandex yarns in
alternating courses (half plating) and spandex yarns in every courses (full plating) were produced on a
circular knitting machine where the two latter cases were produced at five different levels of spandex
extension. After the dyeing process, fabrics were treated with fabric softener using two softener types
(cationic and silicon) and all type two concentrations (3 percent, 6 percent) to evaluate the most
appropriate softener type and concentration on fabric friction force, sewing needle penetration force
and weight loss percent under different levels of spandex extension.
Findings – Results showed that silicon softener treatment results in high decreases in fabric sewing
needle penetrating force, friction force and while treatment with cationic softener results in high
decreases in weight loss percent for 100 percent cotton, half and full plating fabrics.
Originality/value – There is a growing need to study the effect of softeners when spandex yarns are
used in the production of knitted fabric which results in high increase of stitch density. This research
compares the effects of two different softener types at different concentrations on the properties of
both plain jersey fabric produced from 100 percent cotton yarns and from cotton/spandex yarns with
different stitch density.
Keywords Silicon, Cationic, Bare spandex yarn, Half and full plating, Fabric softeners, Fabric testing
Paper type Research paper
1. Introduction
Fabric damage is also one of knitted fabrics defects which occur during sewing
process as shown in Figure 1. So, knitted fabrics are treated with fabric softeners
applied in the final finishing stages in order to improve fabric performance during
sewing process, to improve fabric handle and the appearance and to increase fabric life
time.
Softeners act as fiber lubricants which reduce the coefficient of friction in between
fibers, in between yarns and in between fabric and other surfaces thus reduce the
sewing needle penetration force during sewing which in turn increase needle life time
and reduce needle temperature especially when sewing fabric made from man made
fibers at high sewing speed (Tomasino, 1992). Lower coefficients of friction also
increase the abrasion resistance. But there are some fabric softener influences on the
properties of color shade and is then capability of soiling.
There is a growing need to study the effect of softeners when spandex yarns are used
in the production of knitted fabric which results in high increase of stitch density.
The current issue and full text archive of this journal is available at
www.emeraldinsight.com/0955-6222.htm
Effect of
fabric softener
251
Received 22 October 2011
Revised 9 February 2012
Accepted 9 February 2012
International Journal of Clothing
Science and Technology
Vol. 24 No. 4, 2012
pp. 251-272
q Emerald Group Publishing Limited
0955-6222
DOI 10.1108/09556221211232847

2. The aim of this research is to compare between the effects of two different softener types
at different concentrations on the properties of both plain jersey fabric produced from
100 percent cotton yarns and from cotton/spandex yarns with different stitch density.
2. Literature survey
Jang and Yeh (1993) studied the effect of silicone softeners and silane-coupling agents on
the performance properties of twill cotton fabrics. A cationic softener was also used for
comparison. Cotton fabric samples were treated with a pad-dry-cure process from an
aqueous bath containing the softener and other additives. The results indicated that
silicone softeners provide better durable press performance with a higher retention of
mechanical properties and durability compared with the cationic softener. In addition,
the type of reactive group, the viscosity, and the adsorption mechanism of the softener,
as well as treatment conditions such as curing temperature, are crucial factors affecting
the performance properties of the treated fabrics. Furthermore, the study of
the silane-coupling agent revealed that it plays an important role in improving the
durability and performance of silicone softeners, especially the linear reactive type.
The results also suggested that improvements in wrinkle recovery are mainly due to the
formation of an elastic silicone polymer network, which entraps fibers within its matrix,
thus improving the fabric’s ability to recover from deformation.
Min and Tae (2002) studied to improve the dimensional properties of wool fabric, two
kinds of silicone polymers are applied to plasma pretreated wool. With this treatment,
hygral expansion increases slightly but remains smaller than that of silicone treated
wool without the plasma pretreatment. The wrinkle recovery angles of wool increase
with the treatment, and the values of fabric treated with plasma and silicone polymers
are higher than those with no plasma as pretreatment. In addition, the harsher handle
imparted by plasma modification is improved with silicone treatment. The results
showed that the plasma pretreatment modifies the cuticle surface of the wool fibers and
increases the reactivity of the wool fabric toward silicone polymers. Therefore, the
combination of plasma and silicone treatments can improve the dimensional stability,
wrinkle resistance, and performance properties of the wool.
Nihat (2008) studied the effect of nano-silicon softener on abrasion, pilling resistance
and color fastness properties of knitted fabrics. Nano-silicon softeners are applied
Figure 1.
Fabric damage during
sewing process
(a) (b)
Notes: (a) Damage in fabric; (b) damage shape after focus
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3. to knitted fabric produced from with a wide range of raw materials and different knit
structure. Results showed that fabric with nano-silicon softener exhibited poor abrasion
but better pilling resistance and does not have significant effect on color fastness
properties.
Darko and Dubravko (2008) studied the processing parameters during the process of
garment production influence on knitted garment quality. Penetration force values were
observed in view of the quantity and type of softeners, different sewing needle size and
number of layers of the stitched sample of a dyed plain jersey. The results showed that
reduction of sewing needle penetration force depends on knitted fabric finishing, type
and quantity of softeners, their quantity, sewing needle size and number of layers of the
stitched sample. The highest reduction of penetration force was observed when using
wax emulsion with fatty acid, and the lowest one when using fatty acid. By increasing
the number of layers of the stitched sample, an increase in the value of sewing needle
penetration force was also observed.
Tae (2001)studied theeffects of silicone softeners onthedimensionalproperties ofwool
fabric. A scoured and crabbed plain-weave worsted fabric samples treated with a simple
pad-dry-cure process in an aqueous bath with amino functional and epoxy functional
silicone softeners. The results indicated that dimensional stability and performance
properties improved. In addition, a hydrophilic epoxy functional silicone softener was
seemed to increase fiber swelling and prevents the reduction of hygral expansion.
However, for the other properties, there were no significant variations when different
kinds of epoxy functional silicone softeners were used. Finally the most significant effect
of the softeners was the surface coating, which reduces inter fiber or inter yarn friction.
Ana et al. (2005) studied the influence of pretreatment on cotton knitted fabrics handle
properties. Greige 100 percent carded cotton knitted fabric. Adding softener treatment
during every process from finishing processes and tested cotton knitted fabric was alkali
and enzymatic scoured, pre-bleached and bleached in laboratory and in industrial
conditions. The results showed that the lower penetration force obtained for enzymatic
scoured cottons is because not only such cotton is not damaged but also due to the
removal of some cotton impurities that poor handle. The mkin mean value for alkali
scoured and pre-bleached cotton is lower than enzymatic scoured.
Ayca and Binnaz (2005) studied the effects of elastane draw ratio, pre-setting
temperature and finishing process on the penetration forces of a sewing needle and
damage to elastane yarn during the sewing of cotton/elastane woven fabrics. Three
fabric types with three different elastane weft yarn draw ratios were used. A pre-setting
process was applied to all three types of fabric at two different temperatures and at the
finishing process half of the samples were treated with silicone and the other half were
washed only. Results showed that the sewability value in the warp direction of the
samples which were only washed was 68 percent and for the samples which were treated
with silicone it was 40 percent. As a result, the sewability was considered to be poor,
especially for samples, which were only washed.
Gurarda and Meric (2007) presented the effects of elastane yarn type and fabric
density on the seam performance of PET/elastane woven fabrics. The weft and warp
yarns of the weft stretched fabrics were polyester-elastane covered yarn and polyester
yarn, respectively. Air-covered and twisted elastane weft yarns were used at twill and
plain fabrics. Needle penetration forces were determined on an L&M sewability tester
for seam performance. The values of the needle penetration forces were between
Effect of
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253

4. 64 and 370 cN and the needle damage index values varied between 18 and 73 percent.
Elastane yarn type and fabric density had significant effects on the needle
penetration force.
George and Xu (1995) studied the distributions of the tangential and radial stresses
acting on the yam of a fabric during sewing as the sewing needle is inserted into the
fabric by means of the mechanical principles of elasticity.
Carvalho et al. (2009) presented a system that allows the measurementof parameters of
needle penetration during high-speed sewing. The system has been developed as a tool
for analysis of the most important mechanical effects occurring during high-speed
sewing.
Stylios and Lloyd (1990), used low cost technique for predicting the degree of pucker
by correlating measured values of fabric and thread mechanical properties and
geometrical relationships with the degree of pucker obtained in the seams.
3. Experimental work
3.1 Material and method
In order to achieve the purpose of this research, half and full plating single jersey fabrics
were produced with five different levels of spandex extensions. Also 100 percent cotton
single jersey fabrics were produced. Experimental samples were knitted on a Relanit
3.2 Mayer & Cie circular knitting machine with the following specifications:
. 24 gauges, 2,268 total needle count, 96 systems, with positive yarn feeding
system during the knitting process.
.
40 dtex Bare spandex yarn was used, spandex means manufactured fibers in
which the fibers forming substance is long-chain synthetic polymer comprised of
at least 85 percent of segmented polyurethane. Also 30/1 Ne combed cotton spun
yarn was used.
Fabrics were prepared and dyed in a finishing mill as follows:
(1) Silt opening. The knitted fabric tube is silt open and laid flat.
(2) Heat setting. Samples were heat set without any traverse tension on the same
width produced on knitting machine to keep the same fabric specifications, heat
setting machine was used with a speed of 5 m/min at 1858C.
(3) Closed width. Fabric was sewed back into tubular shape using industrial sewing
machine.
(4) Scouring. Fabric was fed to (250, LDT) GMBH jet dyeing machine and the
scouring bath consists of (soap 2 gm/l and 4 gm/l caustic soda) which performs
the following operations:
.
boiling for 45 min, then flotation in cold water;
.
adding acetic acid (2 gm/l) at 508C for 10 min;
.
immersion in hot water at 808C for 10 min; and
.
flotation in cold water.
(5) Dyeing. The dyeing bath consists of (red reactive dye, 80 gm/l salt and 5 gm/l
soda ash). Red reactive dye consists of sun fix yellow S P D 1.5 percent and sun
fix red S P D 3.5 percent which performs the following operations:
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5. .
adding salt on the cold for 15 min;
.
dye withdrawal gradually for 20 min;
.
raising temperature to 608C for 20 min;
.
soda ash withdrawal on three times and continuing to the end of dye process;
.
flotation; and
.
fabric exit from machine without any softener treatment.
(6) Squeezing.Helintballoonsqueezermachine wasused,theairpressurewas2.4bar
with a speed from (20 to 80) m/min. The principle of this machine is stretching the
fabric in the traverse direction to retain the fabric extension which appears in the
fabric during dyeing process.
(7) Drying. GM6H kranz relax dryer was used at 1508C.
(8) Fabric softeners treatment in laboratory using automatic washing machine. After
dyeing process, fabric samples were classified into five groups and each group
consists of 11 samples produced from (one is 100 percent cotton, half and full
plating each of them is at five different spandex extension percent): the used
automatic washing machine was WPW 4022 automatic washing machine using
(B) program:
.
First group was washed at 458C for 20 min without any softener treatment
then, dried in sunlight at room temperature at 308C for 12 h.
.
Rest of groups were softener treated at 458C for 20 min, with two types of
fabric softeners: cationic softener (A) of clariant company under (Uni soft NCS
trade name) based on fatty acid and polyethylene and silicon softener (B) of
eksoy company under (knit soft wa-et trade name) based on polysiloxane
polymers) with two level of softener concentrations (3 and 6 percent) with
adding acetic acid to achieve pH 5.5 then dried in sunlight at room
temperature 308C for 12 h.
3.2 Testing method
The following properties were measured for with and without softener treatment, in
accordance to standard methods as follows:
.
Fabric abrasion resistance was tested using M249 AATCC accelerator equipped
tester by using AATCC 93 standard test method.
.
Sewing needle penetration force and friction force measuring system.
In order to measure needle penetration force the measuring system which was used
and shown in Figure 2. This system was used with a home sewing machine due to low
weight parts and simple basic mechanism.
The heavy pulley was replaced by a light pulley and the AC sewing machine motor
was replaced by a direct current DC servo motor, which always trying to keep its speeds
constant by consuming more or less electric power under different mechanical loading.
An electronic circuit was built up to measure the change of current
intensity consumed on the servo motor as an indication to the change of the feeding
and needling mechanical loads. To determine the start of the sewing cycle the electronic
marker (micro-switch) this is shown in Figure 2 is used to specify the beginning
Effect of
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255

6. of the sewing cycle. It depends on a switch works only when tension rod reaches its
maximum stroke up as it closes the electric circuit a voltage value is recorded. Machine
signal and micro switch signal were recorded simultaneously by PCSu1000 which is a
digital storage oscilloscope as shown in Figure 2 that uses an IBM compatible computer
and a monitor to display wave forms. It is used as a data acquisition system by means of
converting analog signal to digital signal.
The results can be recorded as a data file which can be then analyzed by computer
programs. The oscilloscope records 2,000 samples in each record.
The specifications of the sewing machine and PC laptop as follow.
A Pfaff sewing machine is used with 301 stitch type, 5 stitches/cm, needle number of
14 and a speed of max 300 stitches/min and the specifications PC laptop Processor
Intelw
celeronw
cpu, 2.2 GHz and 2 GB of RAM.
The measured property of 100 percent cotton, half and full plating cotton/spandex
fabrics with softener treatment was calculated as a percent from the measured
property of the fabric without softener treatment as follows:
Decrease Percent ¼
ðC 2 DÞ
D
*100 ð1Þ
where:
C ¼ value of the property for fabric with softener treatment.
D ¼ value of the property for fabric without softener treatment.
4. Results and discussion
4.1 Sewing needle penetration force in case of 100 percent cotton fabric
Figure3showstheeffectofsoftenerstypeandconcentrationpercentonthesewingneedle
penetration force (cN) for 100 percent cotton single jersey fabric at stitch density
241 stitch/cm2
. As shown, generally the softener treatment decreases the sewing needle
penetrationforcebyanaveragevalue(59percent)comparedtothefabricwithoutsoftener
treatment. The decrease percent of softener (A) at concentrations (3 percent, 6 percent)
Figure 2.
The diagrammatical
sketch of the measuring
system of sewing needle
penetration force
Power supply
Servo
motor
Sewing machine
Micro Switch
12 Ω
Ch1 Ch2
Digital
Oscilloscope
P.C.
6 Ω
9 V
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7. was (27 percent, 58 percent), while the decrease percent of softener (B) at concentrations
(3 percent, 6 percent) was (71 percent, 80 percent), respectively. The decrease percent
of softener (B) was higher than softener (A), where the decrease percent of softener (B)
at (3 percent) was more than twice the decrease percent of softener (A) and at 6 percent
was one and half time the decrease percent of softener (A). Statistical analysis one-way
ANOVA test shows that the fabric softener treatment (with and without softener) affects
on the sewing needle penetration force significantly at confidence limit 99.9 percent when
using softener (B) at concentration 6 percent as shown in Table I.
4.2 Sewing needle penetration force in case of half plating fabric
Figure 4 shows the effect of softeners type and concentration percent on sewing needle
penetration force (cN) for half plating single jersey fabric at different levels of stitch
density. As shown, generally softener treatment decreases sewing needle penetration
force by an average value of (41.6 percent) compared to fabric without softener treatment.
For softener (A), the average value of decrease percent for the different levels of stitch
density is higher for concentration 6 percent (50 percent) compared to concentration
3 percent (29 percent).
For softener (B), the average value of decrease percent for the different levels of stitch
density is higher for concentration 3 percent (49 percent) compared to concentration
3 percent (38 percent). The difference between softener A at concentration 6 percent and
softener B at concentration 3 percent is very low so that softener B is considered more
economic.
Also, results show that softener (B) at concentration (3 percent) gives the max
decrease percent (63 percent) at the lower density and softener (A) at concentration
ANOVA
Sum of squares df Mean square F Sig.
PENETFOR Between groups 175,202.3 1 175,202.3 135,525.8 0.000
Within groups 10.342 8 1.293
Total 175,212.6 9
Table I.
One-way ANOVA
for the effect of softener
treatment (with softener
B 6 percent and without
softener) on sewing
needle penetration force
for 100 percent cotton
fabric
Figure 3.
Effect of softeners type
and concentration percent
on the sewing needle
penetration force for
100 percent cotton
single jersey fabric
0
50
100
150
200
250
300
350
without
softener
with
softener
A(3%)
with
softener
A(6%)
with
softener
B(3%)
with
softener
B(6%)
PenetrationForce(cN)
Effect of
fabric softener
257

8. (3 percent) gives the max decrease percent (67 percent) at the highest density. The effect
of stitch density is not clear which may be due to the low range of stitch density levels
(294-345 s/cm2
).
Statistical analysis (two way and three way) M-ANOVA test shows that the softener
type, concentration and stitch density affect on the sewing needle penetration force
significantly at confidence limit 99.9 percent as shown in Table II. Fabric softener
treatment (with and without softener) affects on the sewing needle penetration force
significantly at confidence limit 99.9 percent when using softener (B) at concentration
3 percent as shown in Table III.
4.3 Sewing needle penetration force in case of full plating fabric
Figure 6 shows the effect of softeners type and concentration percent on sewing needle
penetration force (cN) for full plating single jersey fabric at different levels of stitch
density. As shown, generally softener treatment decreases sewing needle penetration
force by an average value of (37 percent) compared to fabric without softener treatment.
For softener (A), the average value of decrease percent for the different levels of stitch
density is higher for concentration 6 percent (39 percent) compared to concentration
3 percent (32 percent). For softener (B), the average value of decrease percent for the
different levels of stitch density is higher for concentration 6 percent (43 percent)
compared to concentration 3 percent (34 percent).
Also,resultsshow thatsoftener(A)atconcentration(6percent)givesthemaxdecrease
percent(60percent)atthelowerdensityandsoftener (B)atconcentration(6percent) gives
the max decrease percent (30 percent) at the highest density. The high difference between
decrease percent lower and higher density in this case compared to the case of half
plating may be due to the higher range of stitch density level (363-499 s/cm2
) in the case
Figure 4.
Effect of softeners type
and concentration percent
on sewing needle
penetration force (cN)
for half plating fabric
250
349 Stitch/cm2
311 Stitch/cm2 294 Stitch/cm2
337 Stitch/cm2 321 Stitch/cm2
200
150
100
50
0
without
softener
PenetrationForce(cN)
with softener
A(3%)
with softener
A(6%)
with softener
B(3%)
with softener
B(6%)
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9. ANOVAa,b
Uniquemethod
SumofsquaresdfMeansquareFSig.
PENHALFMaineffects(Combined)5,533.4956922.2495,695.2400.000
SOFTCON1,269.41611,269.4167,839.1270.000
SOFTTYPE633.1001633.1003,909.6350.000
STITCH3,630.9794907.7455,605.6690.000
Two-wayinteractions(Combined)31,646.97593,516.33121,714.6800.000
SOFTCON*SOFTTYPE11,333.302111,333.30269,987.4580.000
SOFTCON*STITCH13,580.99043,395.24720,966.9460.000
SOFTTYPE*STITCH6,732.68341,683.17110,394.2200.000
Three-wayinteractionsSOFTCON*SOFTTYPE*STITCH2,863.6824715.9204,421.0810.000
Model40,044.151192,107.58713,015.1520.000
Residual6.477400.162
Total40,050.62959678.824
Notes:a
PENHALFbySOFTCON,SOFTTYPE,STITCH;b
alleffectsenteredsimultaneously
Table II.
M-ANOVA for the effect
of softener type,
concentration and stitch
density on sewing needle
penetration force for half
plating fabrics
Effect of
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259

10. of full plating, from Figures 4 and 5, softener B gives the highest decrease percent in both
case of half and full plating.
Statistical analysis (two way and three way) M-ANOVA test shows that the softener
type, concentration and stitch density affect on the sewing needle penetration force
significantly at confidence limit 99.9 percent as shown in Table IV. Fabric softener
treatment (with and without softener) affects on the sewing needle penetration force
significantly at confidence limit 99.9 percent when using softener (B) at concentration
(6 percent) as shown in Table V.
We find that softener B (silicon) is better than softener A (cationic) with 100 percent
cotton, half and full plating fabrics. As there is a strong chemical bond between fibre
surface and silicon softeners while there is a weak ionic attraction between fibre surface
and cationic softeners the maximum decrease was found in the case of silicon softener
ANOVAa,b
Unique method
Sum of
squares df
Mean
square F Sig.
PENHALF Main effects (Combined) 72,475.930 5 14,495.186 14,495.186 0.000
SOFRENER 58,842.808 1 58,842.808 58,842.808 0.000
STITCH 13,633.122 4 3,408.280 3,408.28 0.000
Two-way
interactions
SOFRENER*STITCH 14,816.884 4 3,704.221 3,704.221 0.000
Model 87,292.814 9 9,699.202 9,699.202 0.000
Residual 20.000 20 1.000
Total 87,312.814 29 3,010.787
Notes: a
PENHALF by SOFRENER, STITCH; b
all effects entered simultaneously
Table III.
M-ANOVA for the effect
of softener treatment
(with softener B 3 percent
and without softener)
with different levels
stitch density on sewing
needle penetration force
for half plating fabric
Figure 5.
Effect of softeners type
and concentration percent
on sewing needle
penetration force (cN)
for full plating fabric
250
499 Stitch/cm2
402 Stitch/cm2 363 Stitch/cm2
472 Stitch/cm2 425 Stitch/cm2
200
150
100
50
0
without
softener
PenetrationForce(cN)
with softener
A(3%)
with softener
A(6%)
with softener
B(3%)
with softener
B(6%)
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11. ANOVAa,b
Uniquemethod
SumofsquaresdfMeansquareFSig.
PENFULLMaineffects(Combined)17,835.75762,972.46028,459.5530.000
SOFTCON3,821.49213,821.49236,588.5360.000
SOFTTYPE3,35.8691335.8693,215.7450.000
STITCH13,677.39743,419.34932,738.2590.000
Two-wayinteractions(Combined)19,158.96292,128.77420,381.7550.000
SOFTCON*SOFTTYPE62.755162.755600.8380.000
SOFTCON*STITCH11,121.76542,780.44126,621.0910.000
SOFTTYPE*STITCH7,974.44241,993.61119,087.6490.000
Three-wayinteractionsSOFTCON*SOFTTYPE*STITCH17,718.34444,429.58642,410.6810.000
Model54,712.063192,879.58227,570.3070.000
Residual4.178400.104
Total54,716.24159927.394
Notes:a
PENFULLbySOFTCON,SOFTTYPE,STITCH;b
alleffectsenteredsimultaneously
Table IV.
M-ANOVA for the
effect of softener type,
concentration and stitch
density on sewing needle
penetration force for full
plating fabrics
Effect of
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261

12. with 6 percent concentration for 100 percent cotton, half and full plating fabric. These
results are consistent with the former studies of Ayca and Binnaz (2005).
4.4 Friction force in case of 100 percent cotton fabric
Figure 6 shows the effect of softeners type and concentration percent on the friction force
(cN) for 100 percent cotton single jersey fabric at stitch density 241 stitch/cm2
. As shown,
generally softener treatment decreases the friction force by an average value (15 percent)
compared to the fabric without softener treatment. The decrease percent of softener (A) at
concentrations (3 percent, 6 percent) was (11 percent, 19 percent), while the decrease
percent of softener (B) at concentrations (3 percent, 6 percent) was (12 percent, 18 percent),
respectively. The results show that the effect of softener (B) is approximately equal to the
effect of softener (A) either at concentrations (3 or 6 percent). Statistical analysis one-way
ANOVA test shows that the fabric softener treatment (with and without softener) affects
onthefrictionforcesignificantlyatconfidencelimit99.9percentwhenusingsoftener(B)at
concentration 6 percent as shown in Table VI.
ANOVAa,b
Unique method
Sum of
squares df
Mean
square F Sig.
PENFULL Main effects (Combined) 66,462.933 5 13,292.587 13,292.587 0.000
SOFRENER 55,004.003 1 55,004.003 55,004.003 0.000
STITCH 11,458.930 4 2,864.733 2,864.733 0.000
Two-way
interactions
SOFRENER*STITCH 4,582.594 4 1,145.649 1,145.649 0.000
Model 71,045.527 9 7,893.947 7,893.947 0.000
Residual 20.000 20 1.000
Total 71,065.527 29 2,450.535
Notes: a
PENFULL by SOFRENER, STITCH; b
all effects entered simultaneously
Table V.
M-ANOVA for the effect
of softener treatment
(with softener B 6 percent
and without softener) and
stitch density on sewing
needle penetration force
for full plating fabrics
Figure 6.
Effect of softener type and
concentration on friction
force for 100 percent
cotton single jersey fabric
0
50
100
150
200
250
FrictionForce(cN)
without
softener
with
softener
A(3%)
with
softener
A(6%)
with
softener
B(3%)
with
softener
B(6%)
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13. 4.5 Friction force in case of half plating fabric
Figure 7 shows the effect of softeners type and concentration percent on the friction force
(cN) for half plating single jersey fabric at different levels of stitch density. As shown,
generally softener treatment decreases the friction force by an average value of
(21 percent) compared to fabric without softener treatment.
For softener (A), the average value of decrease percent for the different levels of stitch
density is higher for concentration 6 percent (23 percent) compared to concentration
3 percent (14.6 percent).
For softener (B), the average value of decrease percent for the different levels of
stitch density is higher for concentration 6 percent (28.5 percent) compared to
concentration 3 percent (19 percent).
Also, results show that softener (B) at concentration (6 percent) gives the max
decrease percent (32 percent) at the lower density and at softener (B) at concentration
(6 percent) gives the max decrease percent (20 percent) the highest density. Therefore,
the highest decrease percent they are using softener B at concentration 6 percent and to
confirm the result with the softener B at high and low density.
Statistical analysis (two way and three way) M-ANOVA test shows that the softener
type, concentration and stitch density affect the friction force significantly at
ANOVA
Sum of squares df Mean square F Sig.
FRICTFOR Between groups 5,314.408 1 5,314.408 5,742.699 0.000
Within groups 7.403 8 0.925
Total 5,321.811 9
Table VI.
One-way ANOVA for the
effect of softener
treatment (with softener
A 6 percent and without
softener) on friction force
for 100 percent
cotton fabric
Figure 7.
Effect of softener type and
concentration percent on
friction force (cN) for
half plating fabric
0
50
100
150
200
250
300
without
softener
with softener
A(3%)
with softener
A(6%)
with softener
B(3%)
with softener
B(6%)
FirictionForce(cN)
394 Stitch/cm2
311 Stitch/cm2 294 Stitch/cm2
337 Stitch/cm2 321 Stitch/cm2
Effect of
fabric softener
263

14. confidence limit 99.9 percent as shown in Table VII. Fabric softener treatment (with and
without softener) affects on the friction force significantly at confidence limit
99.9 percent when using softener B at concentration 6 percent as shown in Table VIII.
4.6 Friction force in case of full plating fabric
Figure 8 shows the effect of softeners type and concentration percent on friction force
(cN) for full plating single jersey fabric at different levels of stitch density. As shown,
generally softener treatment decreases friction force by an average value of (20 percent)
comparing to fabric without softener treatment.
For softener (A), the average value of decrease percent for the different levels of stitch
density is higher for concentration 6 percent (20 percent) compared to concentration
3 percent (13 percent).
For softener (B), the average value of decrease percent for the different levels of stitch
density is higher for concentration 3 percent (25 percent) compared to concentration
6 percent (22 percent).
Also, results show that softener (B) at concentration (3 percent) gives the max
decrease percent (18 percent) at the lower density and softener (B) at concentration
(6 percent) gives the max decrease percent (30 percent) at the highest density.
Statistical analysis (two way and three way) M-ANOVA test shows that the softener
type, concentration and stitch density affect on the friction force significantly at
confidence limit 99.9 percent as shown in Table IX. Softener treatment (with and without
softener) affects on the friction force significantly at confidence limit 99.9 percent when
using softener (B) at concentration (3 percent) as shown in Table X.
We find that the decrease percent with softener B (silicon) is equal softener
A (cationic) for 100 percent cotton fabric while the decrease percent with softener B
(silicon) at concentration 6 percent better than softener A (cationic) for half and full
plating fabrics. Softeners act as fiber lubricants and reduce the coefficient of friction
between fibers, yarns, and between a fabric and an object (Tomasino, 1992). These
results are consistent with the former studies of Ana et al. (2005).
4.7 Abrasion resistance (weight loss percent) in case of 100 percent cotton fabric
Figure 9 shows the effect of softeners type and concentration percent on the weight loss
percent for 100 percent cotton single jersey fabric at stitch density 241 stitch/cm2
.
As shown, the decrease percent of softener (A) at concentration (3 percent, 6 percent)
was (27 percent, 25 percent), while the decrease percent of softener (B) at concentrations
(3 percent) was (10 percent). The weight loss percent for softener B at concentration
(6 percent) was higher than that for fabric without softener treatment by (34 percent).
The highest decrease percent achieved with softener (A) at concentration (3 percent).
Statistical analysis one-way ANOVA test shows that the fabric softener treatment (with
and without softener) affects on the abrasion resistance (weight loss percent)
significantly at confidence limit 99.9 percent when using softener (A) at concentration
3 percent as shown in Table XI.
4.8 Abrasion resistance (weight loss percent) in case of half plating fabric
Figure 10 shows the effect of softeners type and concentration percent on weight loss
percent of half plating single jersey fabric at different levels of stitch density. As shown,
generally softener treatment decreases weight loss percent by an average value of
(32 percent) compared to fabric without softener treatment.
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264

15. ANOVAa,b
Uniquemethod
SumofsquaresdfMeansquareFSig.
FEEDHALFMaineffects(Combined)11,539.88361,923.3149,278.1490.000
SOFTCON7,381.28217,381.28235,607.6240.000
SOFTTYPE2,441.62612,441.62611,778.5090.000
STITCH1,716.9754429.2442,070.6900.000
Two-wayinteractions(Combined)1,434.7139159.413769.0130.000
SOFTCON*SOFTTYPE10.425110.42550.2910.000
SOFTCON*STITCH505.0144126.254609.0530.000
SOFTTYPE*STITCH919.2744229.8181,108.6540.000
Three-wayinteractionsSOFTCON*SOFTTYPE*STITCH297.694474.423359.0220.000
Model13,272.29019698.5423,369.7950.000
Residual8.292400.207
Total13,280.58259225.095
Notes:a
FEEDHALFbySOFTCON,SOFTTYPE,STITCH;b
alleffectsenteredsimultaneously
Table VII.
M-ANOVA for the effect
of softener type,
concentration and stitch
density on friction force
for half plating fabrics
Effect of
fabric softener
265

16. For softener (A), the average value of decrease percent for the different levels of stitch
density is higher for concentration 3 percent (50 percent) compared to concentration
6 percent (46 percent).
For softener (B), the average value of decrease percent for the different levels of stitch
density is higher for concentration 3 percent (17 percent) compared to concentration
6 percent (16 percent).
Also, results show that softener (A) at concentration (3 percent) gives the max
decrease percent (64 percent) at the lower density and softener (A) at concentration
(6 percent) gives the max decrease percent (54 percent) at the highest density.
Statistical analysis (two way and three way) M-ANOVA test shows that the softener
type, concentration and stitch density affect on the weight loss percent significantly at
confidence limit 99.9 percent as shown in Table XII. Fabric softener treatment
ANOVAa,b
Unique method
Sum of
squares df
Mean
square F Sig.
FEEDHAL Main effects (Combined) 806.969 5 8,161.394 8,161.394 0.000
SOFRENE 8,401.959 1 8,401.959 8,401.959 0.000
STITCH 2,405.010 4 601.253 601.253 0.000
Two-way
interactions
SOFRENER*STITCH 2,350.294 4 587.573 587.573 0.000
Model 3,157.263 9 4,795.251 4,795.251 0.000
Residual 20.000 20 1.000
Total 3,177.263 29 1,488.871
Notes: a
FEEDHALF by SOFRENER, STITCH; b
all effects entered simultaneously
Table VIII.
M-ANOVA for the effect
of softener treatment
(with softener B 6 percent
and without softener) and
stitch density on friction
force for half
plating fabrics
Figure 8.
Effect of softener type and
concentration percent on
friction force (cN) for
full plating fabric
499 Stitch/cm2
402 Stitch/cm2 363 Stitch/cm2
472 Stitch/cm2 425 Stitch/cm2
250
300
200
150
100
50
0
without
softener
FrictionForce(cN)
with softener
A(3%)
with softener
A(6%)
with softener
B(6%)
with softener
B(6%)
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266

17. ANOVAa,b
Uniquemethod
SumofsquaresdfMeansquareFSig.
FEEDFULLMaineffects(Combined)8,553.64661,425.6086,249.8790.000
SOFTCON288.6431288.6431,265.4120.000
SOFTTYPE4,530.61814,530.61819,862.2770.000
STITCH3,734.3854933.5964,092.8960.000
Two-wayinteractions(Combined)5,376.7919597.4212,619.1000.000
SOFTCON*SOFTTYPE1,935.51711,935.5178,485.3250.000
SOFTCON*STITCH1,876.1534469.0382,056.2690.000
SOFTTYPE*STITCH1,565.1204391.2801,715.3760.000
Three-wayinteractionsSOFTCON*SOFTTYPE*STITCH2,262.5424565.6352,479.7510.000
Model16,192.97919852.2623,736.3250.000
Residual9.124400.228
Total16,202.10359274.612
Notes:a
FEEDFULLbySOFTCON,SOFTTYPE,STITCH;b
alleffectsenteredsimultaneously
Table IX.
M-ANOVA for the effect
of softener type,
concentration and stitch
density on friction force
for full plating fabrics
Effect of
fabric softener
267

18. (with and without softener) affects on weight loss percent significantly at confidence
limit 99.9 percent when using softener (A) at concentration (3 percent) as shown in
Table XIII.
4.9 Abrasion resistance (weight loss percent) in case of full plating fabric
Figure 11 shows the effect of softeners type and concentration percent on weight loss
percent for full plating single jersey fabric at different levels of stitch density. As shown,
generally softener treatment decreases the weight loss percent by an average value of
(35 percent) comparing to fabric without softener treatment.
ANOVAa,b
Unique method
Sum of
squares df
Mean
square F Sig.
FEEDHAL Main effects (Combined 2,609.304 5 4,521.861 4,639.646 0.000
SOFRENE 2,323.224 1 2,323.224 2,904.698 0.000
STITCH 286.080 4 71.520 73.383 0.000
Two-way
interaction
SOFRENE*STITCH 1,515.819 4 378.955 388.826 0.000
Model 4,125.123 9 2,680.569 2,750.393 0.000
Residual 19.492 20 0.975
Total 4,144.615 29 832.573
Notes: a
FEEDHALF by SOFRENER, STITCH; b
all effects entered simultaneously
Table X.
M-ANOVA for the effect
of softener treatment
(with softener B 3 percent
and without softener) and
stitch density on friction
force for full plating
fabrics
ANOVA
Sum of squares df Mean square F Sig.
ABRASION Between groups 3.306 1 3.306 225.683 0.000
Within groups 0.117 8 1.465 £ 10202
Total 3.423 9
Table XI.
One-way ANOVA for
the effect of softener
treatment (with softener
A 6 percent and without
softener) on abrasion
resistance for 100 percent
cotton fabric
Figure 9.
Effect of softener type and
concentration on abrasion
resistance for 100 percent
cotton single jersey fabric
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
WeightLoss%
without
softener
with
softener
A(3%)
with
softener
A(6%)
with
softener
B(3%)
with
softener
B(6%)
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268

19. For softener (A), the average value of decrease percent for the different levels of stitch
density is higher for concentration 3 percent (53 percent) compared to concentration
6 percent (33.5 percent). For softener (B), the average value of decrease percent for the
different levels of stitch density is higher for concentration 6 percent (34 percent)
compared to concentration 3 percent (19 percent).
ANOVAa,b
Unique method
Sum of
squares df Mean square F Sig.
ABRASHAF Main effects (Combined) 36.341 6 6.057 1,329.721 0.000
SOFTCON 0.273 1 0.273 60.016 0.000
SOFTTYPE 35.620 1 35.620 7,820.025 0.000
STITCH 0.448 4 0.112 24.571 0.000
Two-way
interactions (Combined)
3.199 9 0.355 78.044 0.000
SOFTCON*
SOFTTYPE
5.954 £ 10202
1 5.954 £ 10202
13.070 0.001
SOFTCON
*STITCH
1.398 4 0.349 76.704 0.000
SOFTTYPE
*STITCH
1.742 4 0.436 95.626 0.000
Three-way
interactions
SOFTCON
*SOFTTYPE
*STITCH
5.154 4 1.289 282.881 0.000
Model 44.695 19 2.352 516.434 0.000
Residual 0.182 40 4.555 £ 10203
Total 44.877 59 0.761
Notes: a
ABRASHAF by SOFTCON, SOFTTYPE, STITCH; b
all effects entered simultaneously
Table XII.
M-ANOVA for the
effect of softener type,
concentration and stitch
density on weight loss
percent due to abrasion
for half plating fabrics
Figure 10.
Effect of softener type and
concentration percent on
the abrasion resistance
(weight loss percent) for
half plating fabrics
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
Weightloss% 349Stitch/cm2 337 Stitch/cm2
321 Stitch/m2 311Stitch/cm2
294 Stitch/cm2
without
softener
with
softener
A(3%)
with
softener
A(6%)
with
softener
B(3%)
with
softener
B(6%)
Effect of
fabric softener
269

20. Also, results show that softener (B) at concentration (6 percent) gives the max decrease
percent (55 percent) at the lower density and softener (A) at concentration (3 percent)
gives the max decrease percent (55.3 percent) at the highest density. Statistical analysis
(two way and three way) M-ANOVA test shows that the softener type, concentration and
the stitch density affect on the weight loss percent significantly at confidence limit
99.9 percent as shown in Table XIV. Softener treatment affect on weight loss percent
significantly at confidence limit 99.9 percent when using softener A at concentration
3 percent as shown in Table XV.
We find that softener A better than softener B so, the chemical bond between fibres
and silicon softener weaken tensile fiber properties or facilitate the slippage of fibres
from fabric surface the maximum decrease in weight loss percent was found in case of
cationic softener with 3 percent concentration for 100 percent cotton, half and full plating
fabrics. These results are consistent with the former studies of Nihat (2008).
Figure 11.
Effect of softener type and
concentration percent on
abrasion resistance
(weight loss percent)
for full plating fabrics
0
1
2
3
4
5
Weightloss%
499 Stitch/cm2 472 Stitch/cm2
425 Stitch/cm2 402 Stitch/cm2
363 Stitch/cm2
without
softener
with
softener
A(3%)
with
softener
A(6%)
with
softener
B(3%)
with
softener
B(6%)
ANOVAa,b
Unique method
Sum of
squares df Mean square F Sig.
ABRAHALF Main effects (Combined) 51.427 5 10.285 2,533.340 0.000
SOFRENER 45.313 1 45.313 11,160.894 0.000
STITCH 6.114 4 1.528 376.452 0.000
Two-way
interactions
SOFRENER
*STITCH
0.831 4 0.208 51.196 0.000
Model 52.258 9 5.806 1,430.165 0.000
Residual 8.120 £ 10202
20 4.060 £ 10203
Total 52.339 29 1.805
Notes: a
ABRAHALF by SOFRENER, STITCH; b
all effects entered simultaneously
Table XIII.
M-ANOVA for the effect
of softener treatment
(with softener A 3 percent
and without softener) and
stitch density on weight
loss percent due to
abrasion for half
plating fabrics
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270

21. 5. Conclusion
Generally adding softener to 100 percent cotton, half and full plating samples results in
decrease in:
. The sewing needle penetration force by (59, 42 and 37 percent), respectively.
.
The friction force by (15, 21.4 and 20 percent), respectively.
.
The weight loss percent due to abrasion resistance by (7, 32 and 35 percent),
respectively.
.
Softener B (silicon) improves two properties for the 100 percent cotton fabric, half
and full plating samples which are the sewing needle penetration force and the
friction force.
ANOVAa,b
Unique method
Sum of
squares df Mean square F Sig.
ABRASFUL Main effects (Combined) 5.904 6 0.984 320.533 0.000
SOFTCON 0.212 1 0.212 69.191 0.000
SOFTTYPE 5.169 1 5.169 1,683.562 0.000
STITCH 0.523 4 0.131 42.611 0.000
Two-way
interactions
(Combined) 11.424 9 1.269 413.455 0.000
SOFTCON*SOFTTYP 5.673 1 5.673 1,848.005 0.000
SOFTCON*STITCH 1.043 4 0.261 84.923 0.000
SOFTTYPE*STITCH 4.708 4 1.177 383.35 0.000
Three-way
interactions
SOFTCON*SOFTTYP
*STITCH
4.610 4 1.153 375.415 0.000
Model 21.938 19 1.155 376.103 0.000
Residual 0.123 40 3.070 £ 10203
Total 22.061 59 0.374
Notes: a
ABRASFUL by SOFTCON, SOFTTYPE, STITCH and b
all effects entered simultaneously
Table XIV.
M-ANOVA for the effect
of softener type,
concentration and stitch
density on weight loss
percent due to abrasion
for full plating fabrics
ANOVAa,b
Unique method
Sum of
squares df
Mean
square F Sig.
ABRASFUL Main effects (Combined) 31.842 5 6.368 62.146 0.000
SOFRENER 29.976 1 29.976 292.519 0.000
STITCH 1.866 4 0.467 4.553 0.009
Two-way
interactions
SOFRENER*STITCH 1.086 4 0.271 2.649 0.064
Model 32.928 9 3.659 35.703 0.000
Residual 2.050 20 0.102
Total 34.977 29 1.206
Notes: a
ABRASFUL by SOFRENER, STITCH; b
all effects entered simultaneously
Table XV.
M-ANOVA for the effect
of softener treatment
(with softener A 3 percent
and without softener) and
stitch density on weight
loss percent due to
abrasion for full
plating fabrics
Effect of
fabric softener
271

22. .
Softener A (cationic) improves only weight loss percent for the 100 percent cotton
fabric, half and full plating samples.
. The results show that, adding the spandex yarn increases the density of Wales
and courses, so, there is difficult sewing needle penetration force, and silicon has
the best results with sewing needle penetration force.
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Corresponding author
Roqaya Sadek can be contacted at: R_sadek@mans.edu.eg
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