OCTOBER 2015

4
October 2015www.textilevaluechain.com
EDITORIAL
Ms. Jigna Shah
Editor & Publisher
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“Men’s are from Mars and Women’s are from Venus” How
true it is..!!! Women’s are compared with Venus ; the planet of
creativity. Women’s have many choices in dressing from Indian
to Western, from Asian to Middle east. World has seen wom-
en’s changes diơerent wear from time to time, from country to
country. Covering body parts are the main objective for clothes
introduction in the world. Clothing started from Tree leaves to
natural Ƥbers ( Cotton, silk, wool, Jute etc) then man-made
Ƥbers ( Polyester, Viscose, etc). Today clothing not just a basic
need but it’s a self expression of Personality / Style/ Self image
of conƤdent, independent women of today.
According to Technopak report: The INR 78, 500 crore (USD
14.4 billion) worth womens wear market contributes 38% of the
total apparel market of India. The growth of this market is more
rapid than the menswear market. With the relatively lower
penetration of brands, and the growing disposable income of
modern women, this segment has become the focus of many
Indian and international brands. Growing at 9 % CAGR. Denim is
growing at CAGR of 17%, women’s innerwear at 14%, and tops/
shirts/T-shirts at 11%.
Men’s Suiting / shirting segment which are branded in India
and internationally with a class and sophistication. But Wom-
en’s wear still not considered “the branded segment”. Wom-
en’s category divides the segments in local brands, Designer la-
bel, International / National brands, Roadside or Export Reject.
When we visit CMAI fair (India’s largest local branded gar-
ment show), we can see women’s wear brand participants are
highest which include collection of ethnic, indo western, Indian (
Salwar-suit/ Kurties/ Leg wear) garments. This local brands sells
only in Indian market. Selling / Marketing dynamics changed
now. Local Brands not only depend upon their channel partners
like wholesale, retail, MBO or EBO but now home based Women
entrepreneur who sells from home or local exhibition also tak-
ing it up at great speed.
Second category we see as Fashion Designer Label, which
are majorly marketed though Fashion weeks. Eg. LFW. Majorly
ethic wears with hefty price tag for special occasions like wed-
ding, engagement etc. Sell through personal showroom or
malls.
Third category, International/ National men’s brand are
owners stepping to women’s category. Eg Ven Heusen, Si-
yaram, many more. These brands noticing the growth rate of
women’s wear is faster than men’s wear.
Fourth category is Road side garments, this may be export
reject or samples made by manufactures, which is fashionable
yet aơordable to lower and middle class consumer. Sold in
street, trains, unorganized market.
According to technopak advisor “The future of the apparel
market and the innerwear category, looks promising. At the
same time, fashion retailers have to face some daunting chal-
lenges prior to tapping the extant opportunities. Rising real es-
tate costs, increasing power tariơs and supply chain ineƥcien-
cies are some of the issues that have to be tackled with utmost
prudence. The growth story of Indian consumption is expected
to revive in the medium to long term, but it will require improve-
ments in the overall business performance and managerial pru-
dence of the highest degree to beneƤt from this growth. To
emerge a winner in a market marked by the presence of mul-
tiple players, brands and retailers have to optimize their busi-
ness operations by addressing the challenges and harnessing
market opportunities. Understanding the psyche of the Indian
consumer, amalgamating the Indian style of functioning with
western management techniques, and tailoring fashion oơer-
ings to deƤned consumer segments, are some of the key areas
upon which fashion and innerwear players have to focus.”
Thanks for reading, your feedback will be highly appreci-
ated. ‰
Changing the women’s wear, Challenge for
the Market

6
EDITORIAL TEAM
Editor & Publisher
Ms. Jigna Shah
Editorial Advisor
Shri V.Y. Tamhane
Consulting Editor
Mr. Avinash Mayekar
Graphic Designer
Mr. Anant A. Jogale
INDUSTRY
Mr. Devchand Chheda
City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group)
Mr. Manohar Samuel
President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries
Dr. M. K. Talukdar
VP, Kusumgar Corporates
Mr. Shailendra Pandey
VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon
Mr. Ajay Sharma
GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
Mr. B.V. Doctor
HOD knitting, SASMIRA
Dr. Ela Dedhia
Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College
Dr. Mangesh D. Teli
Professor, Dean ICT
Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay
Principal Scientist & Head MPD
Dr. Rajan Nachane
Retired Scientist, CIRCOT
CONSULTANT / ASSOCIATION
Mr. Shivram Krishnan
Senior Textile Advisor
Mr. G. Benerjee
Management & Industrial Consultant
Mr. Uttam Jain
Director PDEXCIL; VP of Hindustan Chamber of Commerce
Mr. Shiv Kanodia
Sec General, Bharat Merchant Chamber
Mr. N.D. Mhatre
Dy. Director, ITAMMA
October 2015 ISSUE
CONTENT
$'9(57,6(5 ,1'(;
COVER STORY: Changing Women’s wear, Challenge for the market
11- From the Cabin to Cockpit by Mr. Vishnu Govind
12- Changing habits of Women’s wear in India
by Mr. Avinash Mayekar
13-Example : Visgar Polytex
14- Garbage to Glamour by Dr. Sabita Baruah & Mrs. Milan Desai
15- Siyaram in women’s category by Mr. Harshit Poddar
16- 109f & Fusion bears Collection AW 2015
NEWS
CORPORATE
17- Suryalaxmi Cotton Mills & Aditya Birla
18- Cotton USA & Birla Liva brand
19- Threadsol & Global Change Award
ASSOCIATION
20- ATDC & FOHMA
21- FICCI & BOMBAY YARN MERCHANT
22- ITAMMA
ARTICLES
23-
”ƒ†‹‰ ‘ˆ ‡•–ƒ Ƥ„”‡ ‹ Ƭ by Ms. Juhi Agarwal Dr. Ela Dedhia
26- Financial Currency War ( Yuan Vs USD) by Mr. Arvind Sinha
SHOW/ EVENT REPORT
28- PRESS MEET: INDIA ITME 2016
29- AGM MEET: FAITMA
30- Post Show : ITF- Dubai
31- Post Event : All India Exporters Chamber
32- Seminar by Kushal in Surat
33-Post Show : Yarnex Texindia
34- CIRCOT Visit by Textile Friends Group
ITMA 2015 PRODUCT LAUNCH
27- Rieter
35- Colorjet
36- Jupiter Kuster Calico
37- Textechno
38- Picanol
REPORT
39- Cotton
42- Show Calendar
Back Page: Raymond
Back Inside : Liva
Front Inside : RSWM
Page 3: Narain Synthetics
Page 5: Bajaj Fab
Page 7 : SGS Innovation
Page 8 : INTEX
Page 9 :Rabatex
Page 10 : YFA
Page 43 : BSL Suiting
Page 44 : Non Woven Tech
Page 45 : Sanjay Plastic
Page 46 : PRD cotton
Page 47: Dalal Engineering
Page 48 : ITMACH
Page 49 : Dynamic Loom

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN |MARCH- 2015
5

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June 2015www.textilevaluechain.com
VISIT US: Hall No. 1
Stall No. G116

11October 2015 www.textilevaluechain.com
L
ast evening when I was ƪying into Mumbai, we were
greeted by a femaie voice from the cockpit of the plane,
she told us about the ƪight path and gave us an idea
aboutwhat to expect in the journey; in about anhours’ time, she
instructed the cabin crew to prepare for landing; she seemed to
be on top of her job and made us feel we were in safe hands!I was
coming back home after judging a Management Case Competition
in which each participating team had four members, all B-School
students, who will be our managers of tomorrow, building the in-
dustry in the coming days. It was an intensely competitive event
with each team trying their best to make the right impression. As
it turned out, the winning team comprised of four girls. So as I
got into the car for the drive home, I ruminated over the events
of a busy day. One of the things that kept coming to my mind is
the arrival of the young, ambitious Indian woman. She has started
breaking through corporate stereotypes and has begun making a
mark in professions that were hitherto considered male bastions.
Talking of stereotypes, when we think of Cabin Crew, who comes
to your mind-a man or a woman? And how about when we think of
an airline pilot? Well, this is exactly the point I was making. Allow
me to clarify one thing here, I am talking only of stereotypes and
breaking down of territorial boundaries between men and women
in a working environment, as an observation, and not being judg-
mental ofwhat is aspirational and who suits what- I don’t consider
myself qualiƤed enough for that!
Urban India has been a witness in recent years, to a huge rise
in the number of ‘working women’- a term that I don’t agree with,
for it hints at the fact that women who do not seek an employment
and stay at home to manage domestic aơairs, are not ‘working’
- and nothing can be farther from the truth. Coming back to the
point I was making, there is an increasing number of women who
work in the corporate world, this has triggered a huge demand for
business wear for women in India. The sari for long has been, and
continues to be, a symbol of elegance and it’s been a while since
the Salwar Kameez has become a ‘core product’ in every part of
the country, to use a marketing term. Western Wear, owing to the
emerging scenario, is now on a high and has become a fast grow-
ing segment. There is a huge business opportunity out there and
quite a few challenges too. We will take a look at some of these
aspects, in this article.
Indian readymade market has been on a boom in the last two
decades; this has largely been driven by menswear brands with
large corporates playing a signiƤcant role. Brand penetration has
been low in womenswear and many menswear brands have ven-
tured into womenswear in an attempt to grow their user base
and to scale up their businesses. It was not easy for anyone in the
beginning, some persisted, while some decided to wind up after
initial turbulence as they realized the enormity of the challenge.
For those who decided not to pursue, widening their oơering in
menswear and building a brand architecture around that seemed
more feasible. Around 2008, when there was a downturn in the
economy causing immense pressure on growth and proƤtability,
many brands found it not justiƤable to incubate new business ideas
which could not make money in the short term, though they held
good long-term potential.
Brands found it hugely challenging to handle the variety in Ƥts
and cuts that womenswear comes in; organizations with a long
legacy in menswear found it diƥcult to adapt to the challenges
posed by the new category. Getting the body sizes right is some-
thing brands found most diƥcult and the ones that persisted with
it, have managed to get closer to the requirements over a period
of time. Traditionally, womenswear in India was largely about
clothing that is draped with “one-size-Ƥts-all” being the order of
the day; hence getting a stitched garment to Ƥt speciƤc sizes was
challenging and a territory not well-explored before.One way to
pick learning on an emerging category is to look at how it evolved
in markets where is has matured as a business. If we look at West-
ern countries, they have well-developed sizing practices which are
achieved through ‘anthropometric’ processes that involve large
sizing surveys. The knowledge base that comes through such ini-
tiatives is very low in India, when it comes to clothing for women.
With women in leadership positions in businesses, there is a
rising demand for formals and business suits. Getting a perfect
business suit stitched is tougher for a woman in India than it is for
man, for the simple reason that there are not as many established
businesses that deal with it. The ethnic and regional diversity in the
country makes itimmensely challenging for a readymade business
to cater to the sizing demands all across the country. The need for
good quality plus size clothing is felt strongly in the country, this is
yet another reason for us to feel that custom tailoring of Western
Wear for women is a business with ample scope. There are many
women who look for larger Ƥts and fulƤll their needs when they
travel abroad or through the online route from foreign brands and
retailers. These are people with good purchasing power and will-
ingness to spend, butare not getting what they want.
Made to Measure clothing is an emerging branded service that
is gaining ground. While readymade brands have snatched mass
markets from fabric brands, there is still a demand for precision-
stitched garments for special occasions, or for even regular occa-
sions if the user has a certain bent of mind that seeks perfection.
There are consumers who are in genuine need for tailored gar-
ments who may not get their desired sizes in regular brands, and
might have to rely on brands that make extra large clothes, that,
as of now, do not oơer them suƥcient variety. Made to Measure
is a premium service that gives you factory Ƥnish with customized
Ƥts; if the customer has enough disposable income and is positively
predisposed to the idea that Made to Measure stands for, they will
Ƥnd an attractive proposition in it. This scenario is applicable for
womenswear, just as it is the case with menswear.
FROM THE CABIN TO THE COCKPIT
COVER STORY
Shri Vishnu Govind
Independent Brand Consultant
Business Director - Thinkkloud

12
Finding the right service provider for their sartorial needs is
something many women don’t Ƥnd easy. There are many bou-
tique businesses that are set up keeping mind the needfor tailored
businesswear among women, however they need to be scaled up
from the perspective of quality as well as capacity. Currently e-
commerce is riding a wave as far as apparel business is concerned;
at the face of it, custom-tailored solutions have some inherent dis-
advantages given the fact that they may not come with the same
level of convenience that readymade apparel does. The fact of the
matter, however, is that custom tailoring is not about conveni-
ence; it is about precision, or a speciƤc need that is not met other-
wise. A robust technology-based platform can give the service pro-
viders an interface with their target customer. Even in India, there
are pure-play online retailers who are into custom tailoring.In most
cases, for a reasonable time frame, getting a customer’s measure-
ments is a one-time activity; once the customer’s measurements
are available with the retailer, reordering tailored garments as per
the same sizes can be made to be as simple as online shopping of
readymade garments. There could be business ideas emerging out
of this model as well.
What you wear speaks a lot about you; your clothes start talk-
ing on behalf of you even before you have uttered a word. Corpo-
rate World is fast-paced and as they say, you do not get a second
chance to make a good Ƥrst impression. The upwardly mobile and
socially active woman of today is ambitious and keen to make a
mark for herself in the work place; she is building her career and
not just doing a job to augment the family income. She appreciates
quality and is willing to pay a premium for it. Each woman is unique
and likes making a style statement that is unique- which is exactly
what customized clothing gives her! ‰
Changing Habits of Women’sWear in India
What appeals most to the global fashion culture as far as India
is concerned is, “Indian beautiful and fashionable woman.” Right
from likes of SushmitaSenAishwairyaRai, since beauty pageants
started happening; Indian women has come out with ƪying colour-
sin global fashion world like colourful India. From traditional wear
to ethnic wear Indian woman changes style from Kanyakumari to
Himalaya and Modern Mumbai to Untouched culture of North East.
However, Today’s Indian woman is self-styled, conƤdent, and inde-
pendent. There is a drastic change not only in her body language
but also her clothing style.
Textile industry is most ancient industry in India. Our clothing
style changes not only with the religion, state or caste but also
with festivals occasions. We have diơerent roles to play in this
diversity of clothing styles. Indian
woman is highly fashion conscious
with very good sense of color. If
we see the woman from lowest of
the class in India, she is very well
conscious about her matching e.g.
the maid coming to our house for
daily chores is also wearing match-
ing blouse petticoat with her
sari. One can deƤnitely say, “Indian
woman is born with inherent color
sense in her genes”.
With the changing time, number of working women has in-
creased this has given them more freedom to spend on their
clothing. Today, most of the working women prefer western for-
mal wear like shirts, blazers, trousers skirts over Indian wear like
punjabi dresses, kurtis saris. Mrs. Nainapanchalwho works with
top MNC says “Western formal wear oơers me sense of conƤ-
dence. It also gives me comfort ease of movement. Being a mar-
ried woman with two kids, I left with very less time for myself to
get ready. Western wear are less time consuming to wear so I pre-
fer wearing western than Indian formals at work place”. So, apart
from Indian wear, we can Ƥnd western wear like shirts, trousers,
skirts blazer in today’s working woman wardrobe.
College goer girlsform a major chunk in the total woman popu-
lation in India. Today’s college going teenage girl has strong impact
of movies on her clothing style. Sheis conƤdently following most of
current fashion trends
from latest movies.
If you check out the
wardrobe of a college
going teenage girl,
you will Ƥnd denims,
T-shirts, tops, skirts,
shorts, shrugs jack-
ets. Today’s teenage
girl is deƤnitely more
Shri Avinash Mayekar
MD, Suvin Advisor Pvt. Ltd.

conscious about her looks. Her clothing style has become part of
her personality. She likes to set her own style statement. If I recall
my college days there was not much of fashion awareness as com-
pared to today’s generation. They are more conƤdent in adapting
current fashion trends than past generations.
Today, the woman in 40’s50’s is equally fashion conscious as
teenage. We see her trying new clothing styles. Apart from Punjabi
dresses saris, we often see her in denims t-shirts. 48 years old
Mrs. SmritiVaidya (a house wife) says “My daughter once bought
me pair of denims T-shirts which I wore Ƥrst time in my life. To-
day, I am confortable in wearing western wear. It gives me sense of
being young also connects more to my young daughter”
Designer clothing is becoming
popular trend amongst Indian wom-
an. For the occasions like weddings,
engagements other parties, they
prefer to wear specially designed
clothes by designers rather than buy-
ing from normal shops. Mrs. Abha
Bose says “Designer clothes make me
stand out in the parties. I do not want
to look common, so I specially use de-
signer clothes for parties”. Few years
back designer clothes were only lim-
ited to celebrities, but today common
woman is also ƪaunting her with designer clothes.
Though, today westernization has great impact on Indian wom-
en wear, “Sari” is most commonly used attire in India. The Sari is
associated with grace. There are more than 80 recorded ways to
wear a sari. The Sari is the commonly worn when it comes to occa-
sions like wedding festivals. Sari has crossed all boundaries is
now famous amongst western countries as well.
The fashion evolutionis driven by the changing lifestyles of In-
dian woman. Growing income levels increasing fashion aware-
ness are major growth drivers to changing habits of Indian woman
wear. Online shopping is new craze in Indian woman. It gives them
exposure to latest fashion trends. Some of beneƤts like thousands
of brands under one roof, heavy discounts, no long queues, no
traƥcs, easy price comparison, user friendly shopping websitesor
apps easy return policy make it more popular amongst woman.
Not surprisingly, online retail-
ers, such as Snapdeal, Myn-
tra, eBay, Fashion and You,
Shopclues and American
Swan have also seen a 16-20
per cent increase in the sale
of dresses in the last three
months.
When it comes to new
fashion trend, it Ƥrst hit tier-1
cities which gradually moves to tier-2 tier- 3 cities in India. Rural
areas are still in nascent stage in adapting new fashion trends. Tel-
evision has played major contribution to changing fashion trends
in Indian women. As tel-
evision has reached to
farthest of rural region in
India, rural population is
becoming aware on up-
coming trends in woman
wear.
Today, fashion has
no money barrier. Styl-
ish clothing is available at
cheaper rates in roadside
shops. Theseare most
popular in college goers low income groups. Most of the latest
trend clothings are available in these shops. Some of famous fash-
ion markets like Linking road, Fashion Street Sarojini Nagarare
crowded round the year.
On the other hand, market for branded clothes in women wear
is also on rise in past few years. Growing population of working
woman is major growth driver for the rise in purchase of brand-
ed clothes. Many of the retailers consider this as an opportunity.
Multi-brand fashion retailer Lifestyle has introduced more styles
across brands such as Code, Ginger and Van Heusen to further
strengthen their dress oơerings. International brands like Zara,
HennesMauritz are planning to grow their capacities in multi
folds in coming future considering the growing demand from In-
dian woman.
This is surely a golden period for Indian women wear as to-
day’s Indian woman is conƤdently adapting new fashion trends
not just blindly following it. It’s not just red-carpet-hopping Ash,
Sonam and Katrina who are ‘dress’-ing up with a vengeance these
days. From kitty party habitués to cool moms and execs to trendy
students, thousands of Indian women are following suit. Modern
nanisdadis are seen wearing trendy clothes today.Fashion has
certainly grown from classes to masses. Indian women wear mar-
ket is set to grow in multi folds in coming years which is a huge
opportunity for retailers Indian fashion industry! ‰
Also, aims to empower women through its unique franchisee
model; targets Rs 5-7 crore turnover within 12 months
Mumbai based Visagar Polytex Limited, which is engaged into
manufacturing, retail and trading of women’s ethnic wear has
launched its Ƥrst retail outlet in Mumbai. This is the company’s 14th
retail outlet in the country under the brand name - VIVIDHA, others
being present at Rajasthan, Gujarat and West Bengal.
Visagar Polytex also aims at partnering with aspiring women
entrepreneurs through its unique franchisee model. Coming out
with an innovative way of doing business, Visagar Polytex (VPL)
has launched the ‘Home Based Opportunity Scheme’ (HBO), which
brings on board aspiring women entrepreneurs who have ƪair for
doing business. The scheme will be operated from the Mumbai’s
VIVIDHA Showroom.
With the belief in empowering women the company aims to
eliminate the need for wholesale channel and use the strong per-
sonal relations and network of these women to drive the sales of
women’s ethnic wear.
Visagar Polytex launches Ƥrst retail outlet in Mumbai

14
With the Ƥrst launch city being Mumbai, the company expects
a gradual but mass participation in this scheme. The company is
already seeing good response for the scheme and expects an en-
rollment of atleast 500 members with a turnover of Rs 5 - 7 crore
within the 12 months from Mumbai itself.To become a HBO mem-
ber and start her business, the woman would be required to bring
in a minimum investment of Rs. 25,000/-. This being a semi-refunda-
ble deposit, against which, the company would provide her a stock
of approximately Rs. 31,000/- (at factory prices) to be sold using
her network.
Members will get 10 days facility to return the goods and take
refund (upto Rs. 15,000/-) of their deposits and a 20 day credit to
settle the bill.
If the members clear the entire bill within 15 days without tak-
ing refund, the member would be entitled to a pre-payment bonus.
Commenting on the launch, Mr Tilokchand Kothari CMD, VPL
said, “The launch of VIVIDHA is a signiƤcant achievement for us and
we hope this store will give us an opportunity to increase our brand
presence and to reach out to a wider target audience.”
He also mentioned, “We are pleased to launch this unique
scheme, which an aspiring woman can eơortlessly start her busi-
ness with minimum entry barriers, a range of facilities, earn pride
and respect amongst her family members and social circles by re-
alizing dreams of owning and managing a successful ethnic wear
home based business.”
He further added, “Woman have always preferred references
from other women while buying sarees or ethnic wear, which gives
her a feel of reliability and trust. This works much faster than the
traditional model of a walk-in customer. We understand this and
hence we have gone ahead with model.”
About Visagar Polytex
Visagar Polytex Ltd is engaged in textile manufacturing, whole-
sale, retail trading business. They manufacture wholesale Sa-
rees/ Lehangas/ Suits through our oƥces at Surat Kolkata. Its
in-house design teams at Surat Kolkata enable trend-setting
and high quality products ensuring wonderful response from our
clients based all over the country. The company also retails ethnic
wear through a chain of company owned ‘VIVIDHA’ branded retail
showrooms with plans to roll out franchise showrooms soon all
over the country especially North West India.
It is the only company in the huge Saree/ Lehanga/ Suit segment
(Design /Manufacturing/ Wholesale/ Retail) to be listed on the BSE
NSE. ‰
Garbage to Glamour
In the city of Mumbai, crows perched upon rooftops caw in-
cessantly every morning to draw man’s attention to the menace
of plastic bags strewn in the streets. Nevertheless, the pleas of the
crows to rid the city of plastic bags seem to fall on deaf ears. Inci-
dentally, Indian society has been known to display a spiritual indif-
ference to the garbage crisis!
Most modern societies joining the industrial rat race are not
seriously committed to the idea of recycling plastic waste. In fact,
the idea of recycling plastic bags usually conjures up images of an
army of a rag pickers rum-
maging through a mound
of garbage. However, most
people might be unaware
that discarded plastic bags
can be given a new lease of
life when intelligently con-
verted into attractive con-
sumer products and fashion
accessories Ƥt for the roy-
alty. In this paper therefore,
an attempt is being made to
inspire students of Fashion Design
to use discarded plastic bags and create a new range of prod-
ucts as a part of the Make in India initiative.
As a basic raw material, plastic provides an inexpensive light-
weight alternative that has the added advantage of being molded
easily into intricate shapes. Plastic products are also highly durable.
Unfortunately however, when plastic is used in the manufacture of
disposable products for everyday use, their durability becomes a
curse. Durability leads to serious environmental problems.
One approach would be to introduce a Permit Raj in India se-
verely curtail the use of plastic by industry. Another approach
would be to make plastic products highly recyclable. This way, dis-
carded plastic goods can take to reincarnation and appear on store
shelves in their new avatar. All this begins with recycling, and with
a little help from the local rag picker.
As a starter, discarded plastic bags can be converted into trendy
hand bags. By using the traditional crochet technique, garbage bag
remnants of diơerent colors can be locked into exciting geometri-
cal patterns to produce hand bags Ƥt for the fashion ramps.
Trash bags that had once been banished to landƤlls have now
come back to haunt mainstream civil society in the form of exqui-
site swim ware. Thanks to recycling. What was once good for the
Ƥlthy landƤll is now good for the
local celebrity’s wardrobe. Sure-
ly, recycling has hit a new level
and is breathing new life into
trash.
Acknowledgement
Thanks to Samidha Singh ,stu-
dent of Fashion design, for mod-
eling and Sweta Patel, student of
fashion ‰
Dė. SĆćĎęĆ BĆėĚĆč,
CĔĔėĉĎēĆęĔė, FĆĘčĎĔē DĊĘĎČē
SVT CĔđđĊČĊ Ĕċ HĔĒĊ SĈĎĊēĈĊ
SNDT WĔĒĊē’Ę UēĎěĊėĘĎęĞ
MėĘ. MĎđĆē DĊĘĆĎ,
AĘĘĔĈĎĆęĊ PėĔċĊĘĘĔė
SVT CĔđđĊČĊ Ĕċ HĔĒĊ SĈĎĊēĈĊ
SNDT WĔĒĊē’Ę UēĎěĊėĘĎęĞ

Siyaram’s Silk Mills Ltd. is a company known for its textile prow-
ess. Our forte for decades has been our product line in the mens-
wear capacity. Over the last few years we have decided to diversify
our portfolio and extend our product range to a new spectrum of
women’s wear along with men’s casual wear from our traditional
men’s formal clothing line.
Women’s wear as an industry in India has traditionally been
rather conservative. It’s only since the last few years that West-
ern ideology has percolated this segment of Indian clothing. The
rural or B-town markets have usually been more concerned with
value for money on their products. If a designer charged a certain
amount of money, the product should display that kind of work (for
example – if it is more expensive, then that much of embroidery
should be noticed on the product). Now as a whole the consumer
purchasing pattern seems to have shifted towards styling and bet-
ter fabrics. This shift is a welcome change for clothing lines such as
ours. Women’s wear was and is a design dependent industry, but
the consumer is starting to take notice of comfort and better fab-
rics. Customers are
beginning to pay
more money for a
fabric that might
have a better fall
(look) or better
comfort.Siya, our
recently launched
women’s clothing
brand, stands to
beneƤt from this
change and pro-
vides the customers
with a more modern
outlook of the tradi-
tional Indian dress-
ing style.
We, as innova-
tors in the textile
segment are look-
ing to tap into the
women’s wear industry with the approach that we will be able to
provide the latest designs in the most comfortable fabrics. This will
mark a shift in women’s wear from the traditional styling and use
of fabrics. Customers will be able to pick and choose new designs
and colors in fabrics that may not have been available before. Our
in house designers currently cater to our varied and extensive ex-
port brands. This plays a major role in honing their skills and in-
creases their expertise on a global front and ensures fresh and
modern approach to our Indian clothing line.
The unorganized nature of this industry and a lack of national
brands, leads us to believe that the modern consumer will be able
to relate to our brand. The conƤdence of the Indian consumer in
the decades old Siyaram’s brand will instill an inherent conƤdence
in our new clothing line. Our quality standards and commitment
to excellence will ensure that the consumer will be getting exactly
what is promised to them on our product.
We foresee brands to play a big role in the women’s wear in-
dustry as they will help establish trust and a certain consistency in
the product that may have been missing in this segment due to its
incoherent nature.
With the continuous growth in the Indian economy,we notice
a sharp growth in the consumer purchasing parity, especially in
the women’s wear industry. With more number of women work-
ing and contributing to household incomes, a fresh approachand
demandin the segment is expected.
There’s a stark diơerence between Men’s and Women’s wear.
Men’s wear is not as design dependent as women’s wear. The vari-
ations in design, color and styling are much more subtle. Products
tend to last longer and
overall have a larger life
cycle. On the other hand,
in women’s clothing we
notice that product life
cycles last for very small
periods of time and there
is always a hunger for
new designs and a crav-
ing for something diơer-
ent, fresh and exclusive,
a need to break out of
the monotonous styling.
Our brand specializes
in fabrics with innovative
Ƥnishes. We have created
new wrinkle free fabrics,
which in comparison to
existing fabrics wrinkle
to a much lesserdegree.
We are also heralding new Innovative weaves that will project
themselves asa design on their own without any value addition.
The last year of market research suggests that the trend is shift-
ing towards the end consumerchoosing more convenient methods
of clothing. They are moving towards salwar suits from saris, and
from unstitched to readymade. Convenient and attractive designs
are taking the forefront across the segment and are gaining a lot
of movement from the end consumers.
The products that we supply at present include SalwarKa-
meezDupatta (unstitched, ready to stitch, semi–stitched), Indian
Siyaram in woman’s category
Mė. HĆėĘčĎę PĔĉĉĆė
SĎĞĆėĆĒ SĎđĐ MĎĎđđ
COVER STORY

16
embroidered gowns, Kurtis (stitched), Leggings and Palazzos.
Fashion itself seems to work in a cycle. If we look at today’s
trends we can see women starting to move back to designs and
styles from the 80’s or 90’s, where women wore high waist pants,
or slim Ƥts. We are also trying to understand this shift in styling and
cyclical nature and are always evolving and adapting to the con-
sumer’s choice.
Colouris one of the greatest design elementsin a woman’s deci-
sion making process. In this we take our inspiration from the west.
Our tie – ups with brands in the UK and Italy, and also other estab-
lished design houses in Europe have helped us become trendset-
ters in the Indian market in terms of productdesigns with the right
colours, fabric, and styling and gives us a leap start for marketing
and creating a foothold in the Indian consumer’s heart.
We endeavor to establish ourselves as a national brand in the
segment and innovators in the years to come.
Siyaram’s Silk Mills Ltd. has a well-knownslogan, “Coming
home to Siyaram’s”. With the addition of SIya, our women’s wear
brand, bringing the best products in the segment for the quintes-
sential Indian woman at aơordable prices, we can now say “Come
home to family”. ‰
Leading women’s fash-
ion apparel brands, 1090 F
and Fusion Beats unveiled
their much-awaited Autumn-
Winter 2015 Collection. When
comfort blends with style, the
outcome is the vivacious and
trendy collections that make
up the 1090F AW’15 Diva Col-
lection. The Fusion Beats AW
’15 range revolves around the
‘ESCAPADE’ of the urban girl
who is passionate and often
inspired by diơerent ideas, at-
titudes and experiences.
The Diva Collection by
1090F has been carefully designed keeping in mind the young cos-
mopolitan women, who have multiple facets. From corporate chic
to poolside chill, the Diva is constant in all your looks. For the Fu-
sion Beats girls, her escapades bring out the various inspirations
that deƤne her sense of style which she picks up on her adventur-
ous journeys.
Commenting on the collection, Mr. Radhesh Kagzi said, “Our
Autumn Winter 2015 Collection is for the contemporary young
women across age groups and geographical dimensions. The
contemporary 1090 F Fusion Beats woman works towards her
dreams and makes a diơerence. We at Creative Lifestyles have al-
ways been committed to fostering a culture that empowers wom-
en. The Autumn Winter 2015 Collection is inspired by and dedicated
to these very women.”
About 1090 F Autumn – Winter 2015 Collection:
The collection of 1090 F A/W 2015 is inspired by contemporary
times. It celebrates the Diva in every woman, across every walk
of life. Making every day an occasion worthy of celebration. This
trendy collection oơers the complete package of colors and style
ready to Ƥt seamlessly into all wardrobes. It is an amalgamation of
prints and patterns, which oơer a wide range of perfect prêt. The
monochromatic color combo oơers 80s and 90s inspired geomet-
rics in a more subtle monochrome, alternative with fun shapes re-
peated in a mature colorway. This brings an uncomplicated clarity
that is ƪattering for all body types. Pink continues to be a major
colour trend this season. It manages to take an elegant twist with
vintage inspirations on contemporary fashion while still being de-
mure and reƤned. The timely elegant lace patterns and smudgy
ikats are simple but a stunning aơair. It takes the ordinary detail
that often gets overlooked and elevates it to new heights. With
inspirations taken from the Rubik’s Cube, we see bold graphic pop
geometrics seemingly random in shape. A classic approach is seen
in clear cut dainty shapes that forms a mix of sophistication and
smartness. The essential new attributes seen in the collection are
mix patterns, cutwork, laces, sheers and layers.
About Fusion Beats Autumn – Winter 2015 Collection:
The range draws its inspiration from the elaborate Moroccan
rugs and exquisite tile arts. The staple bohemian touch comes
through the RABARI tribe inspired collection which has subtle hints
of gold. The FUSION festive range is put together with palazzos
and free ƪowing skirts in jacquards which are fashionably teamed
with corset Ƥt tops with long and short layering.
The winter line has Ƥnely
woven jacquards that fall
into lovely capes and throws.
The detachable jackets, rug
inspired sweaters and bomb-
ers inspire a high-winter trend
that combines the keen sense
of adventure with a fascina-
tion for the great outdoors.
This lifestyle trend combines
modern functionality with tra-
ditional inspiration. The per-
fect Fusion of modern meets
earthy on their way to self-dis-
covery. ‰
109 F FUSION BEATS LAUNCHES THE DIVA ESCAPADE
COLLECTION FOR AUTUMN-WINTER 2015

CORPORATE NEWS
India’sleading Denim pro-
ducer Suryalakshmi Cotton
successfully commissions
its 4thstate-of-the-art plant
in Amravati, Maharashtra
y Built at a cost of Rs.131crore, the fully
automated and ultra-modern unitwill-
manufacture high-grade, value-added
fancy yarns such as Ring Slub, Stretch,
Elli Twist and Compact.
y 40% of the yarns manufactured in
the plant will be consumed by the
company’s captive denim fabric unit at
Nagpur, Maharashtra and the balance
will be sold to global and domestic
players.
y The state-of-the-art plant deploys
world-class technologiesand will help
Suryalakshmi Cotton to continue its
market leadership through premium
products at premium prices.
Suryalakshmi Cotton, India’s leading
integrated yarn-to-garment manufacturing
company, announced the successful com-
missioning of its 4thstate-of-the-art plant
in Amravati, Maharashtra.With a total in-
vestment of Rs.131crore, the plant has com-
menced operations with the world’s most
advanced and energy eƥcient technology.
The plant includes fully automated, state-
of-the art, imported spinning technology
and is in line with the company’s strategy
to produce value-added and premium fancy
yarns. With the addition of 26,000spindles
to its existing capacity of 61,000, the total
spindle capacity at Suryalakshmi Cotton
goes up to 87,000 spindles.Trial runs at the
plant have been successfully completed
and theplant is entering commercial pro-
duction of yarnsfrom 25thSeptember, 2015.
Commenting on the Company’s latest
milestone, Mr.ParitoshAgarwal, Managing
Director, said, “The plant is a strategic land-
mark in our company’s vision of building
world-class facilities in line with ever chang-
ing global fashion trends.Set up within
stipulated timelines with no cost overruns,
it proves our superior execution and pro-
cess skills. With commencement of opera-
tions at the new plant, we will signiƤcantly
cut down our dependence on third-party
vendors for procuring yarnenabling better
quality control and increased cost eƥcien-
cies.
“With fancy yarns being a premium
product and high margin business, we an-
ticipate annual revenues of Rs.150 crore
plus from this plantalone.Most important-
ly, the in-house unit expands our scope
to invest in RD enabling us to be in sync
with the latest trends in the world of denim
and to cater to international and domestic
fashion demands more eơectively.The high
value yarns produced in this plant would be
used for captive consumption in our denim
division. Also, the plant shall utilize power
from our 25 MW captive power plant, fur-
ther addingto the Company’s bottom line”
he added.
Taking inspiration from our honorable
Prime Minister ShriNarendraModi’s call
for‘Made in India, Sold to the World’, Sury-
alakshmi Cotton hopes to produce interna-
tional quality fancy yarns and sell it to buy-
ers across the globe and in India.
Located in Amravati, which is the cot-
ton belt of Maharashtra, the unit has abun-
dant access to high quality raw material and
labor. Further, it is fully compliant to lever-
age the interest subsidy beneƤts provided
by the Central and State Governments. The
plant would provide direct employment to
around 250 people and indirect employ-
ment to many more.The plant will utilize
power from the Company’s 25MW captive
thermal power plant at Ramtek and thus
enable substantial lowering of power costs.
On its part, the Ramtek power plantwould
increase its production of electricity to ca-
ter to the needs of the Amravati unit.
Suryalakshmi Cotton is a leading pro-
ducer of denim fabric in the country with
a capacity of 40 million meters p.a. and
well positioned as an Original Denim Manu-
facturer (ODM) to both international and
domestic markets. This step is in continua-
tion ofthe company’s strategic endeavor to
create presence across all 3 value chains of
clothing– yarn, denim fabric and garments.
The plant will help the company in creating
a robust strategy to intertwinelatest fash-
ion trends across the three divisions. This
will also de-risk the company’s revenues
and at the same time help in maintaining
a focus on high-value high-margin busi-
nesses.
About Suryalakshmi Cotton:
Founded in 1962, Suryalakshmi Cotton is
a vertically integrated business leveraging
Ƥve decades of successful spinning, denim
and garment operations.With cutting-edge
design, latest spinning technology and end-
to-end manufacturing plants, the company-
manufactures the Ƥnest yarn, premium
denim fabric and garments for leading pri-
vate labels, fashion brands and retail chains
in 29 countries across the globe. ‰
Aditya Birla Private Equity
invests for a minority stake
in Creative Lifestyle with
a valuation over Rs. 300
Crore
Aditya Birla Private Equity, has invested
for a minority stake in Creative Lifestyles
Pvt. Ltd,(Creative Lifestyle) with a valua-
tion of over Rs. 300 Crore. Creative Lifestyle
is the owner of Women’s apparel brands,
109F, Fusion Beats and O2xygen.
Aditya Birla Private Equity has invested
through it’s Sunrise Fund. The consumption
space to which Creative belongs is one of
the four stated focus areas of the fund.
Founded in 2006, Creative Lifestyle, is a
ƪagship company of the Mumbai based Cre-
ative Garments group which has been in op-
erations since 1973. Mr. Birendra Agarwal
teamed up with industry veteran Mr Rahul
Mehta to setup Creative Lifestyle, to foray

18
BRUCE ATHERLEY NAMED
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF
COTTON COUNCIL INTER-
NATIONAL
Bruce Atherley, who most recently
served as vice president, Global Marketing
for KAO, Inc., a Tokyo-based global manu-
facturer of personal care and household
products, has been named executive direc-
tor of Cotton Council International (CCI), ef-
fective October 1.
CCI is the export promotions arm of the
Memphis-based National Cotton Council of
America (NCC). Headquartered in Wash-
ington, DC, and with a reach extending to
more than 50 countries through 17 oƥces
worldwide, CCI uses trade services and
consumer promotion activities to increase
exports of U.S. cotton Ƥber, manufactured
cotton goods, cottonseed and their prod-
ucts in Asia, Europe, Africa, and Central and
South America.
“While new to the cotton industry,
Bruce brings an outstanding record of suc-
cessinglobalmarketingandmanagement,”
NCC President/CEO Gary Adams said. “His
marketing career has established a track
record of
introducing
brands and
p r o d u c t s
into global
markets in
Asia, Latin America and Europe.”
Atherley previously worked with the
William Wrigley Jr Company, serving as its
vice president of North American Confec-
tions Marketing, and as president and gen-
eral manager of Wrigley Canada. Prior to
that, he held the position of vice president
of Retail Marketing for the H.J. Heinz Com-
pany.
Atherley earned a B.S. in Accounting
from Bucknell University and a MBA from
the University ofVirginia’s Darden School of
Business Administration. He and his wife,
Meredith, have threesons. ‰
Experience the season’s
hottest new trend – Natu-
ral Fluid Fashion
(Now available across all leading
brands)
LIVA – the recently launched brand
of fabric from the Aditya Birla Group, un-
veils its latest campaign with the fashion
goddess and brand ambassador –Kanga-
naRanaut. Made with natural Ƥbers, LIVA
promises an experience of natural ƪuid
fashion with an all new perspective this
season. Fluid fashion is about wearing ƪuid
garments that transform the way you look
and feel.
The entire range of garments made of
Liva fabrics can be experienced at leading
retail outlets like Global Desi, Pantaloon,
Lifestyle, Shoppers Stop, Allen Solly, Van-
Huesen among other stores. The way to
identify Liva garments is through the vi-
brant pink Liva tag. The tag assures that the
fabric in the garment has the most liquid
and soft drape and is made of natural, eco-
friendly Ƥbres.
The latest campaign with Kangana,
brings alive the unique attribute of the fab-
ric i.e. ƪuidity.
This dramatic expression of ƪuidity and
dynamism has been achieved on the static
medium i.e. Print and Outdoor through a
unique shoot and post production work.
The campaign will be out this week and will
continue till mid-December.
Speaking on the occasion and why she
chose to endorse the brand, Liva’s brand
ambassador and Bollywood queen, Kanga-
naRanaut said,
.“LIVA is a very special fabric. I was
pleasantly surprised Ƥrst time I wore it. It is
ƪuid, it is comfortable. Just like liquid, you
move it moves. And it is also natural. It de-
livers its promise of Natural Fluid Fashion!I
love fashion! I love dressing up, I think most
girls do. So it is great if people Ƥnd me fash-
ionable. But fashion for me is about being
myself, having a sense of spontaneity that
comes from being free spirited. This is
what attracted me the most to LIVA fabric
when I chose to endorse it .”
Speaking further, to the media Kanga-
na said, “my fashion tip to all is to be ƪuid!
Don’t restrict yourself to one style. Keep
experimenting.Use free ƪowing silhouettes
as they ƪatter all body types. Add garments
made with ƪuid fabrics in your wardrobe.”
Mr K KMaheshwari, Managing Director,
Grasim Industries Limited and Group Direc-
tor Textiles said, “LIVA is an initiative of the
Aditya Birla Group towards connecting with
the end consumer directly. Consumer love
Liva, the natural fabric for its great ƪow and
feel.This is the second season of Liva being
present in the market. During Summer-
Spring 15, when we launched Liva, we had
received an overwhelming response. This
Autumn-Winter 15 we have added many
more brands and partner in this endeavour,
so our consumers will be seeing a lot more
width and breadth in the designs and gar-
ment collections made of Liva fabric.”
Currently Liva is available across major
fashion retail partners - Global Desi, Panta-
loon, Allen Solly , 109 F, Fusion Beats, Peo-
ple, Lifestyle, Melange, Van Huesen, Shop-
pers Stop, Wills Lifestyle, Reliance Trends,
Desi Belle, Ethnicity, Fashion at Big Bazaar,
Max. ‰
into Women’s branded apparel. .
Commenting on the investment Mr. D
Muthukumaran, CEO of Aditya Birla Private
Equity said, “We are excited to be part of
the growth story at Creative Lifestyle. In the
last 9 years, the Creative team has built up
a strong presence in the Women’s branded
apparel segment., which we believe has
high potential for exponential growth in the
coming years”.
Mr Birendra Agarwal, Founder and
Chairman at Creative Lifestyle stated that
“We believe our partnership with Aditya
Birla Private Equity will help in taking the
Company to the next level on the back of
an impressive growth we have already
achieved since inception in 2006. We will
beneƤt from the right impetus, drive and
experience and we are looking forward to
working closely with the Aditya Birla team
to fully exploit our potential”.
109F, launched in 2006, which caters
to casual western wear, has presence in
over 366 retail outlets including 35EBOs
331 Large Format stores. Fusion Beats, an
indo western oơering catering to the Indian
Women, launched in 2011-12 sells across 10
EBOs and 200 LFOs. ‰

ThreadSol introduces
world’s Ƥrst NFC based
Production Management
System- at CISMA 2015
ThreadSol, the pioneer in en-
terprise material management for sewn
products’ industry, is pleased to announce
that its participation in CISMA 2015 (China
International Sewing Machinery Accesso-
ries Fair) witnessed huge success and over-
whelming response from the top garment
manufacturers across23 geographies.
ThreadSol participated in CISMA with
a debutante charm, recognizing the thriv-
ing apparel industry in China. The roaring
and transmittable energy of the booth
with Founders ManasijGanguli, Mausmi-
Ambastha and Team ThreadSol made Hall
E1 (CAD/CAM section) a discernible centre-
point for many.
ThreadSol launched the most promising
production management tool ever seen in
the apparel world- intelloTrace which brings
a truly unrivalled and highly potent technol-
ogy- NFC- to apparel production ƪoor, much
to the likes of Google Wallet and Apple Pay,
the latest innovations using NFC.
The thriving need of the industry for a
credible and intelligent tracking product is
very smartly accomplished by IntelloTrace
which encompasses some very exclusive
beneƤts for the global apparel industry.
Apart from the advanced technology, intel-
loTrace streamlines the factory processes
and facilitates customisation as per a fac-
tory’s requirement.
“IntelloTrace oơers complete visibility
right from inventory to shipment, be it op-
erator, department or any section of the
factory”, states Ziya KÇlÇç, General Manager
at Ozbilim, Turkey. “Moreover one can also
track the critical operations as per real-time
production requirement of quality or bot-
tleneck, making the deployment ƪexible
and cost eơective. Tracking cannot get any
simpler.”
Predictive AI (Actionable Intelligence
reporting) forms the backbone of intel-
loTrace, which provides visual and interac-
tive reports of past performance, present
status and future predictions. Click here for
the explainer video of intelloTrace.
“IntelloTrace is the world’s Ƥrst com-
pletely mobile phone based production
tracking and management system. With a
simple click on your phone, you can view
-the problem, the plausible solution and
associated reports”, explains ManasijGan-
guli, CEO at ThreadSol. “The hardware inde-
pendent nature of IntelloTrace is our strik-
ing edge. All NFC-enabled devices are cloud
connected, so you get all reports and red
ƪags onyour Ƥngertips on the go.All this, at
a much cheaper price than the existing RFID
trackers.”
ThreadSol solutions- intelloCut and in-
telloBuy, currently used by manufacturers
in India, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Pakistan,
Vietnam, Thailand, Indonesia and Turkey,
have already set standards amongst Sewn
Products’ automation solutions worldwide.
IntelloCut helps in planningthe cutting ƪoor
processes by minimizing wastage and maxi-
mizing fabric utilization. IntelloBuy helps
in buying right yardages of fabric for the
factory. The revolutionary solutions are
presently beneƤting more than 50 apparel
factories helping them save up to 10% fabric
cost. ‰
HM Conscious Founda-
tion gives €1 million grant
to pioneering ideas closing
the loop for fashion
the HM Conscious Foundation launch-
es the Ƥrst ever Global Change Award Ϋ one
of the world’s biggest challenges for early
stage innovation and the Ƥrst such initiative
in the fashion industry. By catalysing green,
truly ground-breaking ideas the aim of the
challenge is to protect the earth’s natural
resources by closing the loop for fashion.
Five winners, chosen by an expert jury,
will share a grant of €1 million and get access
to a tailor-made innovation accelerator. The
global public will be invited to distribute half
of the total grant through an online vote.
The result will be revealed at a grand award
ceremony in Stockholm, in February 2016.
“The question for fashion is no longer
“What is the new black?” but rather “What
innovative ideas can close the loop?” The
Global Change Award is looking for ideas
that will protect the earth’s natural resourc-
es, and I am excited to be part of it,” says
Rebecca Earley, Professor in Sustainable
Textile and Fashion Design at University of
the Arts London, Director of its Textile Fu-
tures Research Centre and member of the
Global Change Award Jury.
The HM Conscious Foundation is a
non-proƤt global foundation, funded by the
Stefan Persson family Ϋ founders and main
owners of the Swedish fashion company
HM. The mission of the Foundation is to
drive long-lasting positive change and im-
prove living conditions by investing in peo-
ple, communities and innovative ideas. The
Global Change Award takes on one of the
biggest challenges facing today’s fashion
industry – to create fashion for a growing
population while reducing its impact on the
environment. Neither the Foundation nor
the company HM will take any equity or in-
tellectual property rights in the innovations.
“Ground-breaking, game-changing ide-
as can come from anywhere, so the chal-
lenge is open to anyone. Each year the Glob-
al Change Award aims to Ƥnd the truly brave
and bold ideas that make change. I’m also
eager to see how the fashion industry as a
whole will embrace the challenge of closing
the loop,” says Karl-Johan Persson, board
member of the HM Conscious Foundation
and CEO of HM.
The innovation accelerator Ϋ a collabo-
ration with Accenture and KTH Royal Insti-
tute of Technology in Stockholm Ϋ will give
the Ƥve winners the support and knowl-
edge they need to actualize their ideas.
Starting oơ with an innovation boot camp
in Stockholm, provided by KTH Innovation,
it will be followed up by guidance from Ac-
centure Strategy on how to develop the
winning ideas further. This includes the pro-
vision of a one-year training and coaching
programme with a particular focus on circu-
lar economy.
The innovation accelerator will also pro-
vide exclusive fashion industry access and
oơer possibilities to build networks and try
out the ideas within the fashion value chain.
Information about the Global Change
Award, how to apply for a grant and up-
dates on the challenge are available at
www.globalchangeaward.com (hashtag
#gca2015)
Close the Loop and Circular Economy
In a world with increasingly constrained
resources and environmental challenges,
the circular approach represents a radical
departure from the old linear “take, make,
waste” production and consumption mod-
els to a model where products and resourc-
es are designed to have more than one life.
Closing the loop for fashion means Ƥnding
new approaches in the whole value chain
of the industry; changing the way garments
are designed, produced, shipped, bought,
used and recycled.
The theory about circular economy may
be the biggest revolution in the global econ-
omy in 250 years as it challenges companies
to rethink their business models and cus-
tomer relationships by detaching growth
from the single-use of natural resources and
environmental impact. This creates new
business opportunities as well as an unas-
sailable competitive advantage. ‰

20
ASSOCIATION NEWS
Apparel Training and De-
sign Centre (ATDC) Signs
MoU with Andhra Pradesh
State Skill Development
Corporation (APSSDC)
In order to accomplish the ever increasing
requirement of skilled-youth in the rapidly
growing textile/Fashion related sectors,
Apparel Training and Design Centre (ATDC)
signed an MOU (Memorandum of Under-
standing) with Andhra Pradesh State Skill
Development Corporation (APSSDC). The
MoU was signed in the presence of Honor-
able Chief Minister of Andhra Pradesh Shri
N Chandrababu Naidu, Minister Atchan-
naidu Kinjarapu, Labour Employment,
Factories, Youth Sports, Skill Develop-
ment and Entrepreneurship and Shri.
Mallikarjuna Rao, Chairman APSSDC at
Vijayawada Andhra Pradesh for skill devel-
opment in textile and garment sector. The
MoU was signed between Dr. Darlie Koshy,
DGCEO, ATDC and Dr. Subbarao Ghanta,
MD CEO, APSSDC.
The MoU has been signed initially for a
period of 2 Years and it aims at imparting
employment oriented training and encour-
ages entrepreneurship through Skill Devel-
opment to the youth women. According
to the MoU ATDC and APSSDC will oơer skill
training programs in the capital area for the
village population who have been engaged
in the land pooling process. The target
group of the trainings range from school
drop out to college graduates in all parts
of the state. The MoU outlines the commit-
ment of both the parties to enter into joint
initiatives in which ATDC oơer speciƤc vo-
cational training programs as per the skills
needed for the job and demands of the in-
dustry to train particularly youth.
Speaking on the occasion DGCEO of
ATDC, Dr. Darlie Koshy,” ATDC will leave no
stones unturned to impart necessary skills
to empower the students which would help
them in getting job and starting their own
business. Special emphasis would be given
to impart soft skill and communications
skills to groom the trainees. This MoU will
be a signiƤcant help to achieve and train the
maximum. Immediately ATDC is planning to
set up a training centre in Tenali with the
support of NSL Textiles (Guntur Garments)
28 kms from Vijayawada.”
“ATDC has state of art infrastructure of-
fering shop ƪoor, supervisory and manage-
rial level courses within the education and
training eco- system which provides a com-
prehensive training and also assures full
support” expressed Dr. Subbarao Ghanta,
MD CEO, APSSDC.
Andhra Pradesh State Skill Develop-
ment Corporation (APSSDC) has been set-
up by the Government of Andhra Pradesh
as the nodal body for skill training pro-
grammes in the state. The State Govern-
ment has appointed Andhra Pradesh State
Skill Development Corporation (APSSDC)
Advisory Committee with famous Industri-
alists and Expert from diơerent Ƥelds. The
Advisory Committee consists 20 members
which includes Mr. Madhusudhan, Man-
aging Director, Visakha Steel Plant, Mr.
Srinivasa Raju (Sri city), Mr. Pramod Bhasin
(Genpact), Mr. Stephen Helming (GIZ), Mr.
M. Murugappan (Murugappa Group),Dr.
Darlie Koshi (DG, ATDC), N. Deendayal (CEO,
Skill Foundation), Yamini Sadineni (Pharma
Ƥeld), Dr. P. Thrimurthi (Representative of
Universities ), E. S Chakravarthi (TCS), Dr. P.
Sudhakar Reddy(Anthropologist), K. Ram-
kumar (ICICI Foundation), Vandana Channa,
(ED-GAIL), N. Shivakumar(Chief Executive,
Indian Tobacco Company). ‰
FOHMA LAUNCHES FIRST
EVER COST INDEX (HOSEX)
IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY
The Federation of Hosiery Manufactur-
ers’ Association of India (FOHMA) is the
apex body for the hosiery industry in India.
Over the past four decades, FOHMA has
been constantly endeavouring to come out
with new initiatives to assist the industry
in becoming world class and organised to
benchmark itself against the best in the
world.
In its AGM held on 21st September, 2015
in Kolkata it launched its website www.
fohma.in and the FOHMA Hosiery Cost In-
dex (HOSEX). In the AGM, oƥce bearers
were elected for the year 2015-16. Apart
from the central team, FOHMA has Vice
President and Secretary for 5 Zones. All
leading regional associations are members
of it. FOHMA represents the industry on all
issues with the various Government bodies
apart from working for the development of
the industry.
Its re-elected President Mr. K.B.Agrwala
(Rupa Co), stated that the creation and
launching of the “FOHMA Hosiery Cost In-
dex” is a step towards making the industry
more aware of its costing proƤtability. He
said this is a unique initiative of the associa-
tion and over time the same shall become
a reference point for the total hosiery/knit-
wear industry. He further conƤrmed that
FOHMA would work on more such innova-
tive and industry needed matters to ensure
growth and development of the Industry.
This Index has been conceptualised and
created by FOHMA Vice President (Central)
- Mr. Sanjay K Jain (T T Ltd). He said that
FOHMA hopes with proper support from
industry players and all aligned people
around us, it will be possible to establish a
universally accepted Index which will be a
guiding tool for both buyers sellers. This
will be the Ƥrst cost index for any textile
industry segment in the country.This will
FOHMA

enable companies to benchmark their pric-
ing to a systematic cost plus scenario and
ensure the same is accepted by the market.
Speaking simply, it highlights the average
movement in costing for a representative
basket of hosiery goods over a period of
time. For example if the cost was Rs 100 in
January 2010 and the index is 132 today, it
means over the period the cost for the in-
dustry has gone up by 32%. However speciƤc
products may have gone up more
or less depending on its speciƤ-
cations, the INDEX just gives a
broad idea for the industry as a
whole. Its relevance is more in
giving an idea of the direction of
movement of costing rather than
absolute movement.
The industry is slowly gradu-
ating from a fragmented market
scenario to a more organised
one, where more and more large
buyers are emerging in the shape of or-
ganised retailers, institutional players and
ecommerce giants. They have much more
bargaining power and can squeeze com-
panies/brands in an inƪationary situation.
We are well aware that India is an inƪa-
tion prone country due to its structure and
phased process of development. In such
a scenario, it gets diƥcult for brands and
companies to convince buyers for a price
hike. On the other side it will also provide
direction to the buyers and help them in
ensuring a correct pricing for them. This
index is expected to create a win –win and
balanced scenario for both buyers sellers.
Mr Jain further stated that the index
would be updated at the start of every
quarter i.e. January 1 and so on. The base
year has been taken as January 1, 2010 as
this period was relatively stable and was
between two highly volatile periods (2008-
9 2011-12). It shall be called as HOSEX and
will be disseminated through out the textile
industry through magazines and associa-
tions. It has covered various products being
manufactured in major hosiery centres like
Tirupur, Kolkata and Delhi. Details of the in-
dex are available at www.fohma.in and for
further clariƤcations interested people may
write to FOHMA. ‰
FICCI’s interactive work-
shop on technical textiles
and nonwovens concluded
on successful note
Kolhapur, Tuesday, October 06, 2015
“In India, Technical Textile sector is one
of the fastest growing segments of the In-
dian economy. It has registered compound-
ed annual growth rate (CAGR) of 11% during
11th Five Year Plan and as per the 12th Five
Year Plan estimates by the sub-group on
technical textiles, technical textile market
size is expected to grow at CAGR of 20%
and reach Rs.1,58,540 crore by 2016-17 from
the market size of Rs. 75,925 Crore in 2012-
13. said Mr. B.B. Bharti, Jt. Textile Commis-
sioner, Oƥce of Textile commissioner, Gov-
ernment of India who graced the inaugural
function on Interactive Workshop on Tech-
nical Textile and Nonwoven in Kolhapur
organized by FICCI and Oƥce of the Textile
Commissioner. He also said that techni-
cal textile industry in India is projected to
have potential for generating over 3 million
jobs by 2016. Therefore, the needs for skill
development, training centers, accredited
and certiƤed courses have become vital
for the industry to meet the growth projec-
tions successfully.
Shri P K Awade, Ex.Textile Minister,
Government of Maharashtra, informed
that Marketing is very important part of
the Technical textile industry and FICCI has
been doing remarkably good work and re-
mained engaged with all stake holders of
the sector. He highlighted that technical
textile industry should emphasises on the
importance of improving the overall quality
standards and project the image of well-
structured quality services. Accreditation
and quality certiƤcations are pre-requisites
in order to achieve this goal.
Delivering the welcome address, Dr. P
V Kadole, Principal, DKTE Society’s Textile
and Engineering institute urged the indus-
try players to come together and use the
FICCI platform to set the common agenda
for the Technical Textile industry and ad-
dress the policy and regulatory issues be-
ing faced by all the industry stakeholders.
He briefed about the DKTE Center of Excel-
lence for Nonwovens and said that recently
ministry of Textile approved that Focus
Incubation Centre for technical textiles to
them.
The other speakers for this workshop
were Mr Shrichand Santani and Mr Satya-
jeet Bhonsle from Reliance Polymers, Mr
Avinash Mayekar, Suvin Advisors, Dr Uma
Sankar Sarma, IJIRA, Mr Nitin Bavkar, Dorn-
ier Machinery India, Mr Sanjay Murabatte,
ATE Enterprises and Mr Aniket Bhute, DKTE
COE in Nonwoven. This interactive work-
shop on technical textiles and nonwovens
received overwhelming response from all
over the India. ‰
FICCI
THE BOMBAY YARN MER-
CHANTS ASSOCIATION EX-
CHANGE LTD. WILL PREPARE
DATA-BASE (READY RECKON-
ER) OF YARN USERS
y Mr. JAYKRISHNA PATHAK ELECTED
UNOPPOSED CONTINUOUSLY AS
PRESIDENT FOR 11TH YEAR OF THE AS-
SOCIATION
The Bombay Yarn Merchants Associa-
tion Exchange Limited (BYMA) will pre-
pare data-base (ready reckoner) of the yarn
consuming units. The association has ad-
vised yarn merchants to deal through reg-
istered brokers only, stated Mr. Jaykrishna
Pathak, President of BYMA during the 61st
Annual General Meeting held on 26th Sep-
tember 2015 in Mumbai.
BYMA has strengthened its arbitration
mechanism for its members. Bombay High
Court had given directions to yarn mer-
chants that they should approach BYMA for
arbitration and settlement of any disputes,
informed Mr.Jaykrishna Pathak. More than
100 dispute settlements have been made by

22
the association successfully till now.
He further stated that yarn business in
this Ƥnancial year has not begun on a very
health note due to falling prices and lack of
demand. Devaluation of Chinese currency
added fuel to the Ƥre and made yarn export
from India more diƥcult. Due to the drastic
fall in crude oil prices, the prices of raw ma-
terials took a beating of 30 to 35%. This also
aơected the prices of all the textile based
raw materials and its bye products.
Due to the Insuƥcient rains, the prices
of raw cotton increased at a time when
spinning mills weaving units were already
loosing heavily, as most of the products be-
ing sold under- cost, leading to a partial shut
down in some of their production capaci-
ties.
Mr. Jaykrishna Pathak warned about un-
rest in Bhiwandi with some of the weavers’
faction calling not only for Bhiwandi Bandh
but also making defamatory speeches
against yarn suppliers. In fact, a large chunk
of capital of yarn suppliers has been stuck
with Bhiwandi weavers, which may turn
into bad debt in some cases, which they
would not aơord.
Election Results
Mr. Jaykrishna D. Pathak was re-elected
as the President of The Bombay Yarn Mer-
chants Association Exchange Ltd for the
year 2015 -2016. He has been President of
the Association since last 10 years.
Mr. Chandraparakash M. Parekh was
elected as Vice President, Mr. Hemant
Muchhala as Hon. Secretary and Mr. San-
tosh H. Somani as Hon. Treasurer during the
AGM. ‰
Mr Mayank Jayantilal Roy, Managing Director of
Excel Industrial Gears Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai, manufactur-
ing Mechanical Power Transmission Products, Speed
Variators especially, PIV Gear Boxes for more than
three decades. He is a member of Indian Textile Ac-
cessories Machinery Manufacturers’ Association
(ITAMMA) and serving in Managing Committee of
ITAMMA for more than a decade. His main motto to
serve ITAMMA is to bring ITAMMA to greater heights
by following the footsteps of his father late Mr. Jay-
antilal Roy, who had rendered remarkable services to
the Association during his tenure as Trustee Presi-
dent. Mr. Roy has on his agenda at ITAMMA to make
the “J.G.Roy Endowment Fund” more pro-active.
In his Social responsibilities, Mr. Mayank Jayantilal
Roy is the Chairman in his residential society for more
than 4 years; and is socially connected with Lions Club
of Juhu, Mumbai, for more than three decades. He is
an active participating member in Jain Mahila Samaj
Mandal, Juhu, Mumbai. ‰
Mė. MĆĞĆēĐ J. RĔĞ,
PėĊĘĎĉĊēę
Currently, Managing Director of Basant Wire
Industries, a leading manufacturer and exporter of
Pins and Pinned Products for textile machinery, Mr.
Kishore Khaitan has work experience of over 35 years
in manufacturing and international marketing of en-
gineering products. He has extensive experience in
government policy advocacy, being active in CII for
many years.
Besides more than 14 years as member of manag-
ing committee in ITAMMA, holding positions such as
sub-committee chairman, regional chairman and ex-
port cell chairman.
Mr. Khaitan has been Chairman of CII Rajasthan
in 2009-10. He is been member CII Northern Regional
council, Founder Chairman; Indian Green Building
Council, Jaipur chapter. He is currently also member
of CII National Textile Committee; Patron Member of
TAI, besides playing an active role in many social or-
ganisations/NGOs. ‰
Mr. Ashok Veda strong believer in ‘karma’ with
positive spirit irrespective of adverse situations joined
his family business which was carried out in the name
of Veda Texspares Pvt. Ltd. ƪoated in 1952 by his fa-
ther, late Shri P.C. Veda (Founder of Veda Group). The
company is now dealing with spares of spinning ma-
chines was dealing in spares for weaving Spinning
machines in Madhya Pradesh as import substitutive
products in the 1950s.
He served as National Vice Chairman of Textile As-
sociation (India), and is now actively associated with
TMMA for more than a decade.
He attended various conferences in India, Singa-
pore, Bangkok, Bangladesh, and Switzerland and also
organized National Textile Submit 2013, a National
conference of TAI at Indore. ‰
Kaizar Mahuwala, Executive Director of Gurjar
Gravures Pvt. Ltd. and Gurjar Images Pvt. Ltd., A Gov-
ernment of India Recognized Export House, which
manufactures complete range of Nickel Perforated
Rotary Screens, Engraving Chemicals, Auxiliaries, la-
ser – Inkjet Engraving solutions and machine spares.
Gurjar Group established in the year 1956 and was a
pioneer in manufacturing of Galvano screens since
year 1972 and also maintained a legacy of developing
import substitutes to serve the Indian textile indus-
try.
Mr. Mahuwala has a vast and rich experience in
manufacturing and international business and has
extensively traveled to more than 20 countries. He is
actively associated with ITAMMA since the year 2002
and has served as the Convener of the Ahmedabad
export cell since 2004 and has been the managing
committee member since 2006. ‰
Mė. KĎĘčĔėĊ KčĆĎęĆē
FĎėĘę VĎĈĊ PėĊĘĎĉĊēę.
Mė. AĘčĔĐ VĊĉĆ –
HĔē. TėĊĆĘĚėĊė
Mė. KĆĎZĆė . MĆčĚĜĆđĆ
SĊĈĔēĉ VĎĈĊ PėĊĘĎĉĊēę
PROFILE OF OFFICE BEARERS 2015-16 INDIAN TEXTILE ACCESSORIES MACHINERY
MANUFACTURERS’ ASSOCIATION (ITAMMA)

Introduction
Mesta is a common word used for two species namely Hibiscus
cannabinus and Hibiscus Sabdariơa which produces good Ƥbre for
commerce. It is considered as a substitute for jute and it is also re-
ferred to as a multipurpose crop since each and every part of mesta
has some utility. The two major Ƥbre yielding species of Hibiscus
cannabinus and Hibiscus Sabdariơa have the following characteris-
tics:
MĘ. JĚčĎ AČĆėĜĆđ
UēĎěĊėĘĎęĞ DĊĕĆėęĒĊēę Ĕċ TĊĝęĎđĊ
SĈĎĊēĈĊ Ćēĉ AĕĕĆėĊđ DĊĘĎČēĎēČ
SNDT WĔĒĊē’Ę UēĎěĊėĘĎęĞ, MĚĒćĆĎ, IēĉĎĆ
Dė. EđĆ DĊĉčĎĆ
DĊĕĆėęĒĊēę Ĕċ FĆĘčĎĔē TĊĈčēĔđĔČĞ
CĔđđĊČĊ Ĕċ HĔĒĊ SĈĎĊēĈĊ,
NĎėĒĆđĆ NĎĐĊęĆē, MĚĒćĆĎ, IēĉĎĆ
Grading of Mesta Ƥbre found in Maharashtra and Andhra
Pradesh
Abstract
Mesta is a bast Ƥbre crop and a close substitute to jute in terms of its Ƥbre characteristics and Ƥbre appearance. It is obtained from
the bark of Hibiscus Sabdariơa which belongs to family Malvaceae. Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) has introduced a grading standard
on the basis of scoring system for Mesta Ƥbres like jute which is still followed religiously. Six grades have been prescribed for mesta.
The Ƥbre is graded on the basis of six physical parameters i.e., strength, root content, defects, Ƥneness, colour and density. Scores for
the mesta can be taken as guidance for determining the quality or grade of the Ƥbre which will further justify the commercial value of
the same. The Mesta Ƥbre found in Andhra pradesh (AMV 2) is found to have better grade than the Ƥbre found in Maharashtra (Race
Ruber).
What is the Grading of Mesta Fibre and how it is done?
The quality of any Ƥbre is usually judged by its suitability for the
production of diơerent types of yarn and its behavior in the manu-
facturing process. Same principle applies for mesta Ƥbre too. The
BIS grading of mesta envisages a score card system of grading that
aims at eliminating personal bias as far as possible. Six physical pa-
rameters i.e., strength, root content, defects, Ƥneness, colour and
density of mesta Ƥbres are assessed for sorting out the Ƥbre into
six diơerent grades. Relative weightage is given to each physical
parameter by standard scoring system and the grade of Ƥbre is de-
termined by total score of six parameters. (www.bis.org.in)
Grading Process
There are two systems for grading of mesta Ƥbre:
1. Hand and Eye method
An expert grader can assess the physical characteristics viz.,
Ƥneness, density and strength of the Ƥbre testing by hand only
while visual assessment will judge colour, root content and defects
by a close look at the Ƥbre. Hand and eye method is generally used
in the market for on the spot assessment of the quality and grading
of Ƥbres. This method is subjective and assessment may vary from
person to person.
The six physical characters of Ƥbre i.e., a) Strength, b) Fineness,
c) Colour, d) Root content, e) Defects and f) Density are assessed
by hand and eye method for grading following standard score card
system of grading.
A) Strength
For comparing strength of a Ƥbre a bundle of 10-15 Ƥbres from
the middle region of the Ƥbre reed is gripped between the thumb
and foreƤnger of both the hands and broken longitudinally without
jerk. It gives an idea of Ƥbre strength. Good lustre of Ƥbre is also an
indicator of good Ƥbre strength. Strength of mesta Ƥbre is divided
into Ƥve groups i.e., Very good, Good, Fairly good, Average and
weak mixed. The scoring scheme for each group is shown in Table 1.
B) Fineness
The Ƥneness is a measure of diameter (width) or weight per
unit length of Ƥbre Ƥlament. Fineness is a genetic property which
also depends on the age of the plant during harvesting ( Natural
Fibres, 2009). Fineness can be estimated simply by having a close
look at the Ƥbre. Finer Ƥbre shows better spinning quality. Fineness
is divided into three groups i.e., Very Ƥne, Ƥne and coarse. The scor-
ing scheme for each group is shown in Table 2
C) Root Content
The hard barky region at the lower end of the reed is called root.
The roots are cut at the mill before any processing of the Ƥbre and
in commerce they are known as “Cuttings”. Measuring the extent
of the bark along the length of the reed by a scale and doubling the
length percentage value of the root content may make an estimate
of the root content in terms of weight percentage.
TECHNICAL ARTICLE

24
D) Colour
Colour is the property of the Ƥbre that distinguishes its appear-
ance as redness, yellowness, greyness etc. It is largely dependent
on the retting conditions, water and washing. The terminology of
diơerent colours as deƤned in BIS specifcations with score marks
for mesta are given in Table 4.
E) Defects
Factors causing serious or partial damage to the quality of the
Ƥbre are commonly known as defects. In all 12 defects have been
identiƤed in the body of the Ƥbre, which are broadly classiƤed into
two groups, namely major defects and minor defects. All the major
and minor defects are listed below:
F) Density
Density is deƤned as weight per unit volume of Ƥbre consider-
ing all air space in the Ƥbre. It is judged by the feel of heaviness or
lightness of a number of reeds from the middle region of bulk, held
within a grip between two hands and raised up and down. The sam-
ple that feels compact and heavy with thinner reeds is graded as
‘very heavy’ and loose and less heavy one is ‘medium body’. Heavy
bodied sample generally spin into good quality yarn.
2. Instrumental Method
In this method all the six physical characters of Ƥbre essential
for determining grade are measured by Ƥbre testing instruments.
The use of instruments is essential for an objective and accurate
evaluation of grades. The instruments and their functionalities are
mentioned below:
A) Fibre Bundle Strength Tester
The ability of the Ƥbre to resist strain to the limit of rupture is
called the strength of the Ƥbre. The strength is measured as the
breaking load of the Ƥbre sample under test divided by the linear
density of the unstrained Ƥbre and is called its tenacity. This is ex-
pressed in gm/tex.
The test length of 5 cm is adopted as standard. Corresponding
to this 5 cm test length the length of the Ƥbre bundle is 12.5 cm and
weight 200 to 400 mg is taken. The bundle strength of the Ƥbre
sample is its tenacity which is expressed in gm/tex.
B) Airƪow Fineness Tester
It is a measure of diameter or thickness of the Ƥbre. Fineness is
expressed by linear density or mass per unit length in tex(gm/km).
The Ƥner the Ƥbre, the better is its quality. Airƪow Ƥneness tester
is developed by NIRJAFT measures Ƥneness of Ƥbre on the princi-
ple of measuring speciƤc surface of a constant mass of Ƥbre. The
instrument comprises of a device by which air is sucked through a
sample of Ƥbre plug at a constant pressure and the rate of ƪow is
measured. The rate of ƪow is dependent on the Ƥneness of Ƥbres.
The working of the instrument is based on the measurement
of rate of ƪow of air through a parallel Ƥbre plug of speciƤed mass
(3gm) and length (5cm) placed in a cylindrical cell of Ƥxed dimen-
sions at a particular pressure diơerence between the ends of the
plug. Under these conditions, the Ƥbre Ƥneness (tex) is proportion-
al to the rate of ƪow of air. The airƪow is maintained by a water
aspirator system that can be repeatedly used without replacement.
Two manometers placed, in an inclined position for greater sensi-
tivity, measure the pressure diơerence and the airƪow. The rate of
airƪow is calibrated in terms of ‘tex’.

C) Colour and Lustre Meter
The colour and lustre meter is developed by NIRJAFT and is kind
of reƪectance photometer, which measures the brightness and lus-
tre of the Ƥbre sample in terms of diơused and specular reƪectance
using photoelectric cell. A beam of white light is made incident
on the Ƥbre sample over a speciƤed area and the reƪected beam
of light from the ƪat surface of the sample is received by a pho-
tocell. The output current of the photocell is proportional to the
amount of light received. Brightness or colour is measured by the
ratio of diơused reƪectance of a Ƥbre sample and the reƪectance
of a standard white surface and is expressed in percent. Similarly,
lustre is measured by the ratio of specular reƪectance and diơused
reƪectance.
D) Bulk Density Meter
It determines the volume of a Ƥxed mass of Ƥbre including air
space to indicate whether the Ƥbre is very heavy, heavy or medium
bodied, an aspect commonly used for quality assessment of mesta
Ƥbre.
Fibre bundle of Ƥxed weight (40 gm) and length (10 cm) is held
between the plates and compressed by a Ƥxed load (10 kg) hanged
from the bottom of the device. The bulk density is then calculated
by dividing the mass by the volume under compression. The com-
pression of the Ƥbre sample as calibrated on a scale gives the meas-
ure of bulk density of the Ƥbre expressed in gm/cc directly.
E) Defects
Defective portions are cut from a bundle of mesta Ƥbre reeds
and weighed. The weight expressed as percentage of total weight
of the reed bundle give a measure of defects.
F) Root Content
The instrumental method of measuring the root content is to
simply cut the hard barky bottom region of the Ƥbre reeds, obtain
its weight and express it as percentage of the total weight of the
reeds.
Grading of the Mesta Ƥbre found in Maharashtra and
Andhra Pradesh
The variety of Mesta which is grown in various districts of Ma-
harashtra is Hibiscus Sabdariơa sub variety Race Ruber. This is an
edible variety which is mainly grown for the consumption of its
calyces. The calyces are widely used to produce jams, jellies, herbal
tea etc. The Ƥbre is a by-product which is sometimes discarded or
sometimes used to make ropes and cordages. (Dedhia.E Agar-
wal. J., 2014)
The second variety of Mesta which is from Andhra Pradesh is
popularly known as AMV 2. It is sourced from NIRJAFT, Kolkata.
Results and Discussion
The quality of Mesta can be easily judged by the scoring scheme
and the grade in which it falls will decide the end use of the yarn.
Six physical parameters i.e., strength, defects, root content, colour,
Ƥneness and density are assessed for sorting out the Ƥbres into six
diơerent grades. M1 is considered as very good quality whereas M6
consist of all the mesta Ƥbres which do not conform to any grade
like M2, M3, M4 and M5 but they are of commercial importance.
Instrumental method is mostly used to determine the grade of the
Ƥbre to avoid any personal bias.
The Mesta Ƥbre grown in Andhra Pradesh is of better quality
than the Ƥbre grown in Maharashtra. This could be due to many
reasons like improper retting of the stems, unsuitable ways of
extraction of the Ƥbre or stage of harvesting. Though it is called
a multipurpose crop its area in India is going down. Its cultivation
is restricted to a fewer places in India. If proper grading system is
implied in the industry it will enhance the value of the crop.
Conclusion
Mesta is obtained as a bark from two species namely Hibiscus
Cannabinus and Hibiscus Sabdariơa. It occupies more than 80 per-
cent of the cultivated area (www.indiastat.com). Mesta is referred
as a multipurpose crop since every part has some use (D.P. Singh).
Though it is a multipurpose crop its area in India is going down.
To meet the growing demand of natural Ƥbres the only way is to
increase the productivity and make the crop of commercial impor-

26
tance. Grading the Ƥbre is the Ƥrst and very important step in the
commercialization of a Ƥbre and its products. Although the grading
system for other Ƥbre like cotton and jute are well known and used
widely, the grading of mesta Ƥbre is less known and is rarely used.
It is concluded that the end usage of the Ƥbre is dependent on its
physical parameters and the parameters are in turn dependent on
the quality of the Ƥbre.
The grade of the mesta Ƥbre found in Andhra Pradesh is better
than the grades of the Ƥbre found in Maharashtra. But this doesn’t
mean that the grade of the Ƥbre remains same for every season and
every crop. The grades can be improved by improving the way of
cultivating the crop, retting the stem, harvesting the crop. By this
low grade of mesta can be improved by -2 grades thereby ensuring
high return to the farmer and the industry is also beneƤtted by the
availability of the Ƥbre of superior quality.
References
1. Singh, D.P. Mesta- Hibiscus cannabinus hibiscus sabdariơa. N.d. Re-
trieved on Jan01, 2013 from http://assamagribusiness.nic.in/mesta.pdf
2. Natural Fibres, Handbook with cultivation and uses(2009), NIIR Board
of Consultants and Engineers, NIIR Project Consultancy Services, pp 151-
155
3. www.bis.org.in
4. Bhaduri, S.C., Saha, S.K.(2008), Handbook on Grading of mesta Ƥbre, Na-
tional Institute of Research on Jute Allied Fibre Technology (NIRJAFT)
5. Agarwal, J., Dedhia, E. (2014, June). Current Scenario of Hibiscus Sabdar-
iơa (Mesta) in India (Maharashtra). The International Journal of Humani-
ties and Social Studies, 1(3), 129-135
6. www.indiastat.com ‰
Financial Currency War (Yuan Vs US Dollar)
Mė. AėěĎēĉ SĎēčĆ
CEO ƭ PėĊĘĎĉĊēę
M/Ę. BĚĘĎēĊĘĘ AĉěĎĘĔėĘ GėĔĚĕ
ĆėĕĘĎēčĆ09@ČĒĆĎđ.ĈĔĒ
đĎĔēĆĘĎēčĆ@ČĒĆĎđ.ĈĔĒ
The Chinese are in the process of displacing the monopoly of
the US dollar. They are dropping their US Treasury bonds, stockpil-
ing gold reserves, and opening regional distribution banks for their
own national currency. This will give them easier access to capital
markets and insulate them from Ƥnancial manipulation by Wash-
ington and Wall Street.
Fearing the eclipsing of the US dollar and the Bretton Woods
system by a rival Ƥnancial architecture the US response has been
an attempt to damage the Chinese markets and increase the value
of China’s currency. China has responded through regulations in
the market and then quantitative easing of its currency to maintain
the low prices of Chinese manufactured goods and exports.
Beijing’s quantitative easing is a reaction or response to the
Ƥnancial manipulation of Washington and Wall Street. Addition-
ally, Washington never thought that the Chinese would respond
by dumping US Treasury bonds. Instead of the hysteria about the
Chinese economy, the impending collapse of the US dollar should
be getting all of the attention of investors, one US economist (Pe-
ter Schiơ) has warned. Schiơ’s voice is one of many analysts saying
that the talk about the Chinese economy faltering is exaggerated
and bad spirited.
Financial War against China, Russia: America’s War against
the Community of Destiny
As the Ƥnancial architecture of the world is being altered by
China and Russia, the US dollar is gradually being neutralized as
one of Washington’s weapon of choice. Even the monopoly of
Washington’s Bretton Woods system formed by the International
Monetary Fund (IMF) and World Bank is being directly challenged.
Although they do not constitute alternatives to neoliberal econom-
ics, the BRICS News Development Bank (NDB) and Beijing’s Asian
Infrastructure Investment Bank (AIIB) are challenging the Bretton
Woods system through a rival Ƥnancial structure.
The US Empire has been cognizant of the moves to establish
a rival Ƥnancial order. Policymakers in the Washington Beltway,
the Pentagon, and Wall Street all watched the dual summits of the
BRICS and Shanghai Cooperation Organization in the Russian city
of Ufa with concern. Up to that point, they had been waging an
information/propaganda, energy, Ƥnancial market, currency war,
and general economic war against the Russian Federation.
Banks and governments in the European Union had been
considering and examining the use of China’s national currency,
renminbi/yuan, as a reserve currency. This was because of the at-
tractiveness of the stability of the renminbi as a currency. This had
Washington and Wall Street worried and was one of the factors
that resulted in the expansion of the currency and Ƥnancial war on
Russia to China.
Using speculation as a psychological weapon and market ma-
nipulation, the US launched a Ƥnancial strike against the Chinese.
This was done through an attempt to sink or crash the Chinese
stock market and hurt investor conƤdence in the Chinese economy
and its stocks. Beijing, however, reacted quickly by imposing con-
trols on investment withdrawals. This prevented the snowballing
of stock selloơs and defused the US Ƥnancial bomb.
As the value of the renminbi began to rise Beijing began quan-
titative easing to devalue its national currency as a means of con-
tinuing export trade. The US Congress and White House began to
loudly object. They accused the Chinese of Ƥnancial manipulation
and demanded that Beijing do nothing to readjust the value of the
GLOBAL FOCUS

renminbi. What the folks in the Washington Beltway wanted was
for the Chinese to let the value of the renminbi rise as a means of
disrupting China’s economy and market.
Beijing Liquidates its US Bonds
Push China and it will push back. The buck (or, more properly,
renminbi/yuan) did not stop with the introduction of regulations
by Beijing. China took steps that shocked Wall Street and put
Washington on notice.
As US Ƥnancial institutions began trying to hurt investor conƤ-
dence in China through psychological tactics claiming that the Chi-
nese economy was slowing down and that the Chinese market was
in freefall, Beijing announced that it had bought 600 tons of gold
in the span of a month and the People’s Bank of China had got rid
of over 17 billion US dollars from its foreign exchange reserves. Chi-
na’s foreign exchange reserves — excluding the foreign reserves
of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region and the Macau
Special Administrative Region — were 3.71 trillion (37,111,430 mil-
lion) US dollars in May 2015. They had dropped to 3.69 trillion
(36,938,380 million) US dollars by June 2015.
The Ƥnancial market webpage Zero Hedge, which had been
following this development, explained what it had discovered was
taking place: «We then put China’s change in FX reserves alongside
the total Treasury holdings of China and its ‘anonymous’ oơshore
Treasury dealer Euroclear (aka ‘Belgium’) as released by TIC, and
found that the dramatic relationship which we Ƥrst discovered
back in May, has persisted — namely virtually the entire delta in
Chinese FX reserves come via China’s US Treasury holdings».
The main point here was that China’s US Treasury bonds are
being aggressively sold, to the tune of $107 billion in Treasury sales
so far in 2015. By following China’s Ƥnancial transactions in Belgium,
Zero Hedge had actually calculated that Beijing had dropped 143
billion US dollars in three months. A few months later, in August,
the Chinese dropped 100 billion US dollars worth of US Treasury
bonds in the span of two weeks.
A day later, on August 27, Bloomberg corroborated what Zero
Hedge had identiƤed. A Bloomberg report explained the following:
The People’s Bank of China has been oƫoading dollars and buying
yuan to support the exchange rate, a policy that’s contributed to
a $315 billion drop in its foreign-exchange reserves over the last 12
months. The $3.65 trillion stockpile will fall by some $40 billion a
month in the remainder of 2015 because of the intervention, ac-
cording to the median estimate in a Bloomberg survey.
While the Bloomberg report emphasized that the Chinese were
using US dollars to buy their own national currency, it casually
mentioned, Strategically, it probably has been China’s intention to
Ƥnd the right time to lighten up its excessive accumulation of U.S.
Treasuries, citing an economist at Reorient Financial Markets Lim-
ited in Hong Kong.
The Eclipsing of the US Dollar by the Chinese Renminbi
Wall Street should be worried about the economic problems
at home in the US instead of trying to undermine China. The talk
about the slowing down of the Chinese economy in part is distrac-
tion. It diverts attention from the decline of the US and is meant to
enforce the eơorts of Washington and Wall Street to rein in Beijing.
The Chinese, however, continue to move forward undeterred.
Beijing selected Qatar as its Ƥrst renminbi clearing house in the
Middle East and North Africa for regional exchange markets there
in April 2015. The name of this clearing house is the Qatar Renminbi
Centre. It will circumvent US Ƥnancial structures and give greater
access to oil and natural gas from the Middle East and North Africa
to the People’s Republic of China.
Despite the wishes of Wall Street and Washington, the Silk
World Order is moving forward. ‰
For the Ƥrst time, Rieter is showing a mobile solution that not
only provides an overview of the data of the spinning mill, but also
oơers a conƤgurable alarm function.
COMPLETE SYSTEM INNOVATIONS
SPIDERweb Mill Control System -new functions for the spinning
mill of the future
The Rieter SPIDERweb Mill Control System is the only system
on the market which uniformly covers the entire spinning mill from
Ƥbre to yarn and for all four spinning technologies -not only for new
machines but also for older generations. SPIDERweb serves eco-
nomic decisions in the spinning mill. The system is conƤgurable for
individual requirements. It stores and monitors the quality and pro-
duction of all Rieter spinning systems. Subsequent enhancements
can be upgraded. This safeguards the investment in a modern spin-
ning mill.
With six new modules respectively functions, SPIDERweb
opens the door to an Internet-based, intelligent spinning mill con-
trol. The system oơers the following advantages:
• permanently monitored sliver and yarn quality
• incorporated expertise
• optimal allocation of operating personnel
• support for systematic preventative maintenance
• fact-based and quick reaction to deviations
• increase in plant availability and productivity
SPIDERweb allows visitors to the exhibition stand at the ITMA
an insight into the spinning mill of the future.
Value-adding After Sales Services
Since the beginning of this year, Rieter has strengthened its af-
ter sales service oơering by a third dedicated Business Group. The
objective is to support customers over the entire product life cycle
and to improve their long-term competitiveness. Rieter is present-
ing new After Sales service products at the ITMA.
Audits for comprehensive system analysis and improve-
ment
The expert teams from Rieter After Sales oơer spinning mill au-
dits which identify feasible short-term opportunities for improve-
ments and create measurable results for customers.
Comprehensive maintenance support
Globally located repair and maintenance centres enable cus-
tomers to optimally maintain their machines. Thanks to the contin-
uous training of personnel, Rieter oơers the best possible support
for the customers.
Textile technology from Ƥbre to yarn
Rieter demonstrates know-how with thousands of various fab-
ric samples which the teams from After Sales use to discuss the
plans and objectives with the customers and seek solutions -always
focusing on their needs, markets and opportunities. ‰
COMPLETE SYSTEM INNOVATIONS

OCTOBER 2015

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