Article about Perth and Western Australia for Alaska Airlines

1. mileage plan adventures Per th, Au st ralia
kord.com / age fotostock
Manicured gardens at Kings Park
Big City, Small-Town Feel provide a terrific view of
Perth’s downtown skyline.
Perth is one of Western Australia’s hidden gems
By Jacinta O’Halloran
When my mother’s plane landed at Perth International Airport three years to get here (almost five hours from Syd-
ney). But “wait awhile” also suggests that
ago, her arrival was 33 years late. She was supposed to have emigrated years before
you shouldn’t just rush through your visit,
with her older sister. When she finally got on the plane for Perth, she said it but rather slow down to the Western Aus-
was “about time.” I supported her move, partly because it was gutsy, but mostly tralian pace of life, and then settle into the
scenery.
because I knew my great-grandmother had also moved to a new country at the tender
When we arrive in Perth, we’re excited
age of 50. Impulsive relocation runs in the beaches and British candy in corner shops, to finally be “Down Under.” After carefully
family. and it’s even easier to understand. Still, to plotting our agenda en route, we are eager
There were obvious reasons why my really see why my mother had left the west to start checking items off each of our lists,
mother chose Western Australia, the coun- coast of Ireland for the west coast of Aus- such as “See a kangaroo” (11-year-old), and
try’s largest state: We have an established tralia, I had to come for a visit. “Be a kangaroo” (5-year-old). There is a
branch of the family there, and there warm and happy sun shining in a great big
are really only two seasons to dress for— The “W” and “A” in Western Australia are blue sky to greet us. The sky is the shade of
summer, and a mild winter before it’s said to stand for “Wait Awhile.” It’s true, vacation-blue that you usually envy in
summer again. Add hot Christmases, cool you have to wait awhile longer on the plane postcards from friends visiting far-flung
126 December 2008 Alaska Airlines Magazine

2. Andy Selinger / Alamy
Cottesloe Beach is a popular details
beach in the Perth area.
Where to Stay
The 13-story Mercure Perth hotel
(011-61-8-9326-7000, www.mercure.
com) is conveniently located in the heart
of Perth, with the central train station,
major shopping, dining, sightseeing and
nightlife areas all within easy walking
distance. When you’re done walking, you
can relax in the hotel lounge, sauna or,
best of all, in the heated rooftop pool. It
attracts a business clientele, so you can
sometimes find a deal here for a week-
end stay.
destinations, and the sun provided the kind Swan River Colony. After a slow start and Merribrook Retreat (011-61-8-9755-
of warmth we didn’t expect for a winter’s run-ins with the indigenous Noongar tribe 5599, www.merribrook.com.au) embod-
morning. (who had occupied the land for the previ- ies everything that Margaret River—and
“Perth gets more sunny days than any ous 40,000 years), the city slowly grew. In indeed, this part of the country—is
other city in Australia,” my mother proudly 1850, an influx of convicts from Great about. It’s rugged yet refined, modern
brags with a slight Aussie twang. Britain boosted the size of the colony, and but still rustic, and packages can include
I’d heard so much about the other obvi- their labor helped build the city. It was the relaxing activities as well as adventures.
ous reason to visit Perth—50 miles of discovery of gold in the 1890s, however, You’ll find elegant villa accommodations,
unspoiled sandy white “beach, beach and that really established Perth, triggering a a spa, pool, sauna and open wood fire,
more beach”—while planning this trip that long-term mineral boom. In recent years, plus gourmet breakfasts in a luxurious
VANUATU
I nearly doubted Perth’s status as a city. the rise of commodity prices and the sub- and secluded natural setting. It’s only
It is, indeed, a city. In fact, Perth is sequent mining and oil-drilling boom have five minutes by car to Indian Ocean
Western Australia’s state capital and largest dramatically increased and diversified beaches, and a 14-minute drive to the
city. With 1.5 million residents, Perth is Perth’s population, making it the fastest- town of Margaret River.
home to about three-fourths of Western growing city in the country. Recent projec- Karri Valley Resort (011-61-8-9776-
NEW CALEDONIA
Australia’s population. tions from the Australian Bureau of 2020, www.karrivalleyresort.com.au) is
The city was founded in 1829 by Cap- Statistics estimate that Perth’s population about a three-and-a-half-hour drive
tain James Stirling, as the center for the will more than double in the next 50 years. south of Perth. The resort is surrounded
Despite all this boom- by a majestic karri forest and sits on
australia ing, Perth is surprisingly the banks of the trout-filled Lake Beede-
free of hustle and bustle. lup. The town of Pemberton is about
Pac if ic Maybe its location on the 14 miles south of the resort. It’s an
O c e an
peaceful waters of the easy drive to explore local wineries and
Swan River promotes area attractions such as the Gloucester
a laid-back atmosphere. Tree, Beedelup Falls, and local berry
Perth is nicknamed “the and lavender farms, yet you truly
A U S T R A L I A loneliest city,” and is closer appreciate the tranquility and natural
Brisbane
to East Timor, and Jakarta, beauty of the region. Stay in a cozy
Indonesia, than to Sydney, and secluded two- or three-bedroom
Perth Brisbane or Canberra. chalet, with a view of the peaceful
Sydney
Canberra
Perhaps this remoteness lake, and meadows filled with wild
Melbourne allows it to feel like a kangaroos.
Tas man Se a friendly small town. Perth’s continued on page 129
NEW ZEALAND
Alaska Airlines Magazine December 2008 127

3. mileage plan adventures Per th, Au st ralia
uncluttered skyline is a
Ken Gillham / getty images
pleasing mix of high-rise
details
glass and steel towers and from page 127
charming colonial archi- Where to Eat
tecture, amid pristine The Old Brewery (011-61-8-9211-8999,
parks and squeaky-clean www.oldswanbrewery.com.au) dates
streets. The metro area has back to the late 1800s, but in 2001 it was
three times as much open renovated and reopened with a state-of-
space as built space—per- the-art microbrewery, cafe-restaurant
haps the city is too airy for and function venue. Original-recipe
big-city tensions and beers are produced on-site, and there
stresses. Maybe it’s as are samples aplenty. The cafe-restau-
simple as “beach, beach rant’s good food, alfresco dining and
and more beach.” wonderful views of the Swan River and
After a few minutes on Perth skyline make it a favorite for locals
Cottesloe Beach, a popular and visitors alike.
area recreation spot, I
begin to truly understand It doesn’t get much better than great
why, after visiting here a fish-and-chips, well-salted and doused
few years ago, my mother in vinegar from Fremantle’s famed
returned home and put her Cicerello’s (011-61-8-9335-1911, www.
house on the market. It cicerellos.com.au). Think boatshed-style
really is that nice. A tireless building, great seafood, outdoor water-
stretch of pristine sandy front seating and spectacular views of
beach stretches under that the harbor and ocean—aah, all is well
wide blue sky and between with the world.
the turquoise blue waters of The Voyager Estate (011-61-8-9757-
the Indian Ocean and 6354, www.voyagerestate.com.au) in
Cottesloe’s manicured terraces. Locals—or Visitors to the much-photographed, iconic Margaret River is one of the region’s
“sandgropers” as they are called here, after a Bell Tower can hear a delightful concert of 16 best winery-restaurants. After winning
sand insect—surf in the playful waves, tuned bells nearly every day of the week. Western Australia’s award for “Top
saunter along the sandy shore, or simply sit Restaurant” in 2006, as well as the “Best
and soak in their blessings. I feel lucky to of beautiful gardens, an elevated treetop Winery Restaurant” honor for three
wait awhile and take in the winter sun. We walkway, nature trails, and open recre- successive years, the Voyager recently
head off to Kings Park just as people begin ational areas where people picnic, sit and received the prestigious Prix d’Honneur
to take part in one of Perth’s—and indeed, chat, and enjoy fantastic views of the city award for the second time. The restau-
Australia’s—most time-honored traditions: skyline and Swan River. rant features a grand setting on palatial
the Sunday session, in which some locals After getting a bird’s-eye view of the city manicured grounds, and an elegant
enjoy a Sunday afternoon beer. from Kings Park, we are eager to see it up chandelier hangs in the dining room. The
close. There are plenty of guided tours of imaginative menu varies seasonally and
If Perth’s heart can be found on a beach, the city, but it’s just as easy to walk, and we typically includes recommended wines.
its soul lies in Kings Park. This nearly know we can hop on one of the free CAT
1,000-acre park is Western Australia’s most (Central Area Transit) buses if our legs
popular tourist attraction, visited by more fail us. We start in Barrack Square with tuned bells ring in various patterns.
than 5 million people a year. More than the impressive Bell Tower, home of the From here we wander through the
three-fourths of this magnificent park is “Swan Bells,” where I try to get the kids Supreme Court Gardens to Perth’s oldest
natural bushland, containing more than to appreciate the fact that this is the only building, the Francis Burt Law Education
300 species of native plants, and around 80 location in the Southern Hemisphere Centre, then across St. George’s Terrace to
bird species. The rest of the park is made up where they can hear 16 (exclamation here!) Pier Street and St. George’s Cathedral, with
Alaska Airlines Magazine December 2008 129

4. its fine jarrah wood ceiling. Next we go to
Brilliance
the central business district, where we find
large modern skyscrapers and grand hotels,
as well as some of Perth’s historical build-
ings funded by the gold rush. We shop for
souvenirs in London Court, an Elizabethan-
like street with adorable tea shops. Then we
shop the Hay Street and Murray Street
eserve malls for awhile, before resting in the
sunny Forrest Place Square, remembering
to “wait awhile” before heading a little
farther south.
Fremantle, a port city founded in 1829 at
the mouth of the Swan River, is a vibrant
city southwest of Perth’s city center. It
offers everything from historical architec-
ture and marine heritage to a street dedi-
cated to the consumption of cappuccino
(Cappuccino Strip). It also boasts the grave
of former AC/DC lead singer Bon Scott and
the Fremantle Markets. From Fremantle,
248 Front Street • Juneau, Alaska 99801 you can also hop on a ferry to a protected
907.586.2604 • 1.800.942.9755 nature reserve, called Rottnest Island,
email: thejewelbox@ak.net where Perth locals escape their not-so-
hectic lives for pristine beaches and bike
paths, as well as to see the local miniature
marsupials called “quokkas.”
It always starts so innocently. We are so taken with “Freo”—a nick-
name for Fremantle—and, in particular,
with the well-salted and vinegared fish-and-
chips we consume on its waterfront, that we
adopt the Fremantle Football Club—known
as “the Dockers”—as our Australian foot-
ball—or “footy”—team. This is no small
declaration. If you want to have any kind of
decent conversation with a local, you have to
have a favorite footy team—“Go Dockers!”
Likewise, if you want to really feel
like a local in Perth, you should go to a
game. Subiaco Oval is an easy train ride
from Perth’s center. It is the highest-
capacity stadium in the area and home
to two Australian-rules football teams:
the Fremantle Football Club and the West
Coast Eagles.
We gear up in new jerseys to show our
support for our beloved Dockers, and join
about 40,000 vociferous locals. The kids
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lose their voices, and the Dockers lose
their game, but we gain a love for the sport
and its incredibly passionate fans.
Another of Perth’s great selling points is
130 December 2008 Alaska Airlines Magazine

5. its location as gateway to the rest of Aus-
Hood Canal, Golf Course, Waterfront & View Properties tralia’s largest state: Head north
and you find red-dirt outback and the
Pinnacles Desert; go east and you have
historical towns and the lush Swan Valley
wineries; head south and you’ll find more
excellent wineries (making some of the
best wines in the world) and karri trees—
a local species of eucalyptus tree—in the
countryside.
My mother lives two hours south of
Perth, or as she would say, “just outside
Perth,” so we are perfectly situated to
explore many picturesque areas.
Our visit includes the rich Margaret
River wine region, known for its 60-plus
wineries and award-winning fine wine.
More than 15 percent of the country’s
South Shore Hood Canal, where the pristine waters Specializing in: second homes, premium wine is produced here. This
are warm and calm - a recreational paradise, in the vacation properties and retirement living.
charming town is popular with Perth
shadow of the Olympic Mountains. Alderbrook Golf Contact me for
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Western Australia’s most challenging surf
round living. Located 2 hrs from Seattle, 2 1/2 hrs
from Portland, and just 45 minutes from Olympia. conditions.
Southeast of Margaret River, in Beede-
lup National Park, we wait awhile amid
many of Western Australia’s tallest trees in
towering karri forests, gazing high at the
majestic trees, and low at rare and exqui-
site wildflowers. We also find time to see
and be kangaroos—essential Australian
travel experiences, though at this point we
know there is so much more to Western
Australia.
My mother doesn’t need to explain why
she chose to move to Perth—we can see for
ourselves. It was, indeed, “about time” she
lived here…and now I can’t wait until
perhaps it’s my time to exercise my own
inherited relocation impulses.
Jacinta O’Halloran writes from New York.
getting there
Use Mileage Plan miles to visit
Perth and other Australia
destinations via partner airline Qantas.
For more information or to enroll in
Mileage Plan, go to alaskaair.com or call
800-654-5669.
132 December 2008 Alaska Airlines Magazine

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