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PICTURES PORTFOLIO Jamie Gul l iver
PORTRAIT 
I don’t like this photo because the 
lighting is very bad on one side, if I 
were to do it again I would make 
sure there is better lighting 
I like these two photos because it 
is a little different than the normal 
portrait photos. 
I like these photos because the 
subject isn’t too lit up but at the 
same the time she isn’t to dark 
and the bright surroundings make 
her stand out
LANDSCAPE 
I don’t like these photos because they are just 
normal and look a bit boring, if I were to do them 
again I would look further and try and find 
somewhere a bit different. 
I like this photo 
because the 
foreground is very 
prominent and the 
distance is all faded 
making this 
landscape a little 
different 
This photo I like 
because rather than 
it just be being a field 
of distorted/faded it 
is open but there is a 
lot going on making it 
a bit different and 
more interesting.
MACRO 
I love this photo because the green leaves 
really makes the pink in the foreground stick 
out to the viewer and really makes the berries 
more prominent. 
I like this photo because there is 
nothing to distract the viewer from 
the big purple beauty of the flower. 
This photo I really do like because there is 
a lot of green but there isn’t to much green 
that it becomes overwhelming but the 
yellow on the green really makes a good 
contrast of colour. 
I like this photo because the purple really 
sticks out to the view but the mass of purple 
really makes the photo nicer because of all the 
different shades of purple rather than just one. 
This photo I think is just amazing 
because of the bee. To have the black 
and the yellow contrast with the green 
on top of the purple really makes a 
good photo in my opinion.
ABSTRACT 
I like this photo because you cant tell 
what it is, even when I look back at it 
I get confused on what it is which 
makes a good photo. 
I like this photo because you cant tell what it 
is, even when I look back at it I get confused 
on what it is which makes a good photo. This 
almost looks like a canyon or a crater 
because I am so close to it. 
This photo I like because the bottom 
right almost looks distorted and 
looks photo shopped when it isn’t 
which I think looks very good 
This photo makes everything look a bit weird 
because when you look through the lock you 
cant see much but the rest of the image 
doesn’t reveal much either so it makes the 
view puzzled 
This photo I like because half way down the 
wooden pole isn’t distorted but the top and 
the bottom is.
MY CHOSEN AREA 
 I have chosen to do macro to study 
and to do al l my research on. 
 I have done research onl ine and have 
found a photographer to study and 
look into and to look at her di f ferent 
macro photos. 
 The photographer I have chosen to 
look at is cal led Heather Angel 
 I have found these photos she has 
found, the one at the bot tom is of a 
tarantula about to bi te the camera 
t h a t ’ s w h y t h e f a n g s a r e s o 
prominent . The one at the top is of a 
ver y close f lower that had just been 
pol l inated and I think she has real ly 
grasped the di f ferent colours in the 
f lower and real ly exposed something 
ever ybody takes for granted
HEATHER ANGEL 
 Heather Hazel Angel MSc is a 
British nature photographer, author 
and television presenter. She is 
also the owner/ manager of a 
photographic agency which sel ls 
her pictures for use in print and on-l 
ine. 
 Born: 1941 
 Education: University of Bristol
MACRO TECHNIQUES 
 1. Choose the Best Lens Opt ion 
 Gatekeeper but ter f ly macro image 
 Gatekeeper but ter f ly. Nikon D200, Nikon 200mm macro lens. 1/160sec @ 
f/8, ISO 100. 
 The focal length of Macro lenses ranges f rom 50mm to 200mm. Al though 
many zoom lenses boast a macro set t ing, these are usual ly less than hal f 
l i fe-size magni f icat ion – t rue macro, however, begins wi th 1:1 and nothing 
less. 
 A 50-60mm lens is sui table for general macro work but i f you want greater 
subject -to- lens distance a 100mm lens wi l l give you this at a pr ice. 
 For creatures l ike but ter f l ies and dragonf l ies, lens-to-subject distance 
becomes even more impor tant so focal length needs to be greater. 
 The 150-200mm range is the most expensive, but you wi l l appreciate the 
ext ra power when stalking f l ighty subjects l ike this Gatekeeper but ter f ly.
MACRO TECHNIQUES 
 2. Make a Standard Zoom Focus Closer by Adding Tubes 
 Oedemera Nobi lis. Nikon D200, Nikon 18-200mm lens with 
20mm extension tube. 1/125sec @ f/11, ISO 400. 
 Extension tubes fit between the rear mount of the lens and 
the camera body to make the lens focus closer and therefore 
produce a much bigger image of a smal l subject. 
 This image of a thick- legged flower beetle was shot with an 
18-200mm zoom lens and a 20mm extension tube added. This 
is a much cheaper alternative than buying a macro lens but 
tubes are more fiddly to use in the field. 
 Also, with an extension tube fitted you lose the infinity end of 
your focusing range. Add more tubes and this becomes 
increasingly more l imited.
MACRO TECHNIQUES 
 3. Add a Diopt re to Make a Lens Focus Closer 
 Golden- ringed dragonfly. Panasonic Lumix FZ30 f i t ted wi th a Cokin +3 
diopt re. 1/250sec @ f/3.6, ISO 200. 
 Close-up f i l ters are single-element lenses that look l ike magni fying 
glasses. 
 These f i l ters screw into the f ront element thread and can provide an 
inexpensive al ternat ive to splashing out on a pukka macro lens. 
 They come in a var iety of st rengths that are measured in diopt res. 
 Close-up f i l ters are of ten avai lable in sets of +1,+2 or +4 diopt re 
magni f icat ion. 
 Diopt res are also avai lable to f i t Cokin style square f i l ter systems. 
 Add a diopt re to a br idge camera or a compact to achieve real close-up 
shots. 
 The golden r inged dragonf ly shown here was shot on a Lumix FZ30 
camera wi th a +3 diopt re added to the f ront element .
MACRO TECHNIQUES 
 4. Use Aper tures to Control Depth of Field 
 The lef t snowdrop shown here was shot at f/2.8 whi le the one 
on the right was taken at f/22. 
 To get the most out of avai lable depth-of-field, select a smal l 
aper ture l ike f/16 or even f/22. 
 You wi l l find that at hal f- l ife size the depth of field you can 
achieve at f/22 wi l l be only around 15mm at best. 
 On the other hand you may wish to go to the other extreme 
and show as l ittle sharpness as possible by opening up to ful l 
aper ture l ike f/2.8 or f/4. 
 One advantage of the latter option is that any out-of-focus 
highlights wi l l show as circle- l ike bubbles that can look very 
attractive.
MACRO TECHNIQUES 
 5. Blend Flash wi th Ambient 
 With more static subjects it can be fun to add a bl ip of flash 
just to l iven up an image. 
 In this composite shot of a sycamore leaf , both images were 
exposed for natural l ight; however, the bottom image was 
given a bl ip of of f-camera fi l l - in flash and the shutter speed 
was increased by one stop in order to darken the background. 
 Sycamore leaf . Nikon D200, Nikon 105mm macro lens. 1/125 
(top) & 1/250sec (bottom) @ f/8, ISO 100.
MACRO TECHNIQUES 
 6. Use a Third Hand 
 A ‘ t h i r d h a n d ’ d ev i c e i s a n e s s e n t ial ma c ro p h oto g r aphy 
accessory. I t wi l l enable you to suppor t or position subjects 
just where you want them. In turn, it can also help to provide 
endless possibilities of positioning backgrounds.
MACRO TECHNIQUES 
 7. Fine-tune Macro Pattern Compositions 
 Fungi. Nikon D2X Nikon 105mm macro lens. 1/15sec @ f/11, 
ISO 100. 
 Although we can crop things using sof tware later, it is best to 
fine-tune composition in-camera at the time of shooting as 
much as possible. 
 With close-up pattern details, ensure they either fi l l the frame 
completely so that there are no gaps around the edges. 
 Alternatively show the entire pattern with space al l around it. 
 These two shots of the same fungus i l lustrate how these 
opposite approaches look in practice
MACRO TECHNIQUES 
 8. Point of Focus 
 I t is imperative to consider the actual point of focus when 
working close-up with tiny subjects. You can dramatically 
change the appearance by where you chose to focus. 
 These two shots of the same teasle head were both shot at 
the same maximum aper ture, but the point of focus was 
changed by a couple of mi l l imetres to produce an entirely 
di f ferent ef fect.
MACRO TECHNIQUES 
 9. Check LCD Panel 
 Use your rear LCD faci lity to ensure you have got the shot you 
want before moving on. Look careful ly at the corners to make 
sure there are no intrusions. 
 Tidy up any unwanted debris in the scene and make sure that 
your composition concentrates on your subject as intended. 
I t ’ s a l s o wi s e to c a r r y a s p a r e b a t te r y, a s c o n s t a n t l y r ev i ewin g 
shots wi l l drain power.
MACRO TECHNIQUES 
 10. Raindrops 
 Af ter rain can be an excel lent time to search for macro 
subjects when everything is dripping with droplets of rain 
water. 
 Go in close to show how the raindrops act as miniature 
lenses, magnifying the veins in leaves.
MY PHOTO SKETCHES AND PLANS
MACRO COLLAGE
BEST 4 PHOTOS 
I like this photo because of the 
extreme close up, and how the 
photographer captures such detail 
on the bee. 
The way the close up captures all 
the bristles on the snail and all the 
tiny particles of the ground its 
amazing. 
The way the back ground is all 
blurred out really impresses 
me because it really draws 
your attention to the front and 
all the bright colours. 
The eye is simply amazing 
because there aren’t many 
colours just the few colours 
there are just make the eye 
really stand out to the viewer.
EXHIBITION 
 Title: spectrum of smal l l ife. 
 I would l ike to have al l my pictures on canvases or in frames. 
 how my design Is going to laid out: 
These little photos in the 
middle are of all the photos I 
think are the best. 
The larger ones on the side 
are of ones that need to be 
edited down so that they 
emphasise something in 
particular, this also includes 
the one on the bottom. 
This one is of my personal 
favourite photo that’s why 
there isn't one on the top.
 Camera - £400 
 Tripod - £50 
 SD Card - £30 
 Macro lens - £180 
EQUIPMENT

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  • 2. PORTRAIT I don’t like this photo because the lighting is very bad on one side, if I were to do it again I would make sure there is better lighting I like these two photos because it is a little different than the normal portrait photos. I like these photos because the subject isn’t too lit up but at the same the time she isn’t to dark and the bright surroundings make her stand out
  • 3. LANDSCAPE I don’t like these photos because they are just normal and look a bit boring, if I were to do them again I would look further and try and find somewhere a bit different. I like this photo because the foreground is very prominent and the distance is all faded making this landscape a little different This photo I like because rather than it just be being a field of distorted/faded it is open but there is a lot going on making it a bit different and more interesting.
  • 4. MACRO I love this photo because the green leaves really makes the pink in the foreground stick out to the viewer and really makes the berries more prominent. I like this photo because there is nothing to distract the viewer from the big purple beauty of the flower. This photo I really do like because there is a lot of green but there isn’t to much green that it becomes overwhelming but the yellow on the green really makes a good contrast of colour. I like this photo because the purple really sticks out to the view but the mass of purple really makes the photo nicer because of all the different shades of purple rather than just one. This photo I think is just amazing because of the bee. To have the black and the yellow contrast with the green on top of the purple really makes a good photo in my opinion.
  • 5. ABSTRACT I like this photo because you cant tell what it is, even when I look back at it I get confused on what it is which makes a good photo. I like this photo because you cant tell what it is, even when I look back at it I get confused on what it is which makes a good photo. This almost looks like a canyon or a crater because I am so close to it. This photo I like because the bottom right almost looks distorted and looks photo shopped when it isn’t which I think looks very good This photo makes everything look a bit weird because when you look through the lock you cant see much but the rest of the image doesn’t reveal much either so it makes the view puzzled This photo I like because half way down the wooden pole isn’t distorted but the top and the bottom is.
  • 6. MY CHOSEN AREA  I have chosen to do macro to study and to do al l my research on.  I have done research onl ine and have found a photographer to study and look into and to look at her di f ferent macro photos.  The photographer I have chosen to look at is cal led Heather Angel  I have found these photos she has found, the one at the bot tom is of a tarantula about to bi te the camera t h a t ’ s w h y t h e f a n g s a r e s o prominent . The one at the top is of a ver y close f lower that had just been pol l inated and I think she has real ly grasped the di f ferent colours in the f lower and real ly exposed something ever ybody takes for granted
  • 7. HEATHER ANGEL  Heather Hazel Angel MSc is a British nature photographer, author and television presenter. She is also the owner/ manager of a photographic agency which sel ls her pictures for use in print and on-l ine.  Born: 1941  Education: University of Bristol
  • 8. MACRO TECHNIQUES  1. Choose the Best Lens Opt ion  Gatekeeper but ter f ly macro image  Gatekeeper but ter f ly. Nikon D200, Nikon 200mm macro lens. 1/160sec @ f/8, ISO 100.  The focal length of Macro lenses ranges f rom 50mm to 200mm. Al though many zoom lenses boast a macro set t ing, these are usual ly less than hal f l i fe-size magni f icat ion – t rue macro, however, begins wi th 1:1 and nothing less.  A 50-60mm lens is sui table for general macro work but i f you want greater subject -to- lens distance a 100mm lens wi l l give you this at a pr ice.  For creatures l ike but ter f l ies and dragonf l ies, lens-to-subject distance becomes even more impor tant so focal length needs to be greater.  The 150-200mm range is the most expensive, but you wi l l appreciate the ext ra power when stalking f l ighty subjects l ike this Gatekeeper but ter f ly.
  • 9. MACRO TECHNIQUES  2. Make a Standard Zoom Focus Closer by Adding Tubes  Oedemera Nobi lis. Nikon D200, Nikon 18-200mm lens with 20mm extension tube. 1/125sec @ f/11, ISO 400.  Extension tubes fit between the rear mount of the lens and the camera body to make the lens focus closer and therefore produce a much bigger image of a smal l subject.  This image of a thick- legged flower beetle was shot with an 18-200mm zoom lens and a 20mm extension tube added. This is a much cheaper alternative than buying a macro lens but tubes are more fiddly to use in the field.  Also, with an extension tube fitted you lose the infinity end of your focusing range. Add more tubes and this becomes increasingly more l imited.
  • 10. MACRO TECHNIQUES  3. Add a Diopt re to Make a Lens Focus Closer  Golden- ringed dragonfly. Panasonic Lumix FZ30 f i t ted wi th a Cokin +3 diopt re. 1/250sec @ f/3.6, ISO 200.  Close-up f i l ters are single-element lenses that look l ike magni fying glasses.  These f i l ters screw into the f ront element thread and can provide an inexpensive al ternat ive to splashing out on a pukka macro lens.  They come in a var iety of st rengths that are measured in diopt res.  Close-up f i l ters are of ten avai lable in sets of +1,+2 or +4 diopt re magni f icat ion.  Diopt res are also avai lable to f i t Cokin style square f i l ter systems.  Add a diopt re to a br idge camera or a compact to achieve real close-up shots.  The golden r inged dragonf ly shown here was shot on a Lumix FZ30 camera wi th a +3 diopt re added to the f ront element .
  • 11. MACRO TECHNIQUES  4. Use Aper tures to Control Depth of Field  The lef t snowdrop shown here was shot at f/2.8 whi le the one on the right was taken at f/22.  To get the most out of avai lable depth-of-field, select a smal l aper ture l ike f/16 or even f/22.  You wi l l find that at hal f- l ife size the depth of field you can achieve at f/22 wi l l be only around 15mm at best.  On the other hand you may wish to go to the other extreme and show as l ittle sharpness as possible by opening up to ful l aper ture l ike f/2.8 or f/4.  One advantage of the latter option is that any out-of-focus highlights wi l l show as circle- l ike bubbles that can look very attractive.
  • 12. MACRO TECHNIQUES  5. Blend Flash wi th Ambient  With more static subjects it can be fun to add a bl ip of flash just to l iven up an image.  In this composite shot of a sycamore leaf , both images were exposed for natural l ight; however, the bottom image was given a bl ip of of f-camera fi l l - in flash and the shutter speed was increased by one stop in order to darken the background.  Sycamore leaf . Nikon D200, Nikon 105mm macro lens. 1/125 (top) & 1/250sec (bottom) @ f/8, ISO 100.
  • 13. MACRO TECHNIQUES  6. Use a Third Hand  A ‘ t h i r d h a n d ’ d ev i c e i s a n e s s e n t ial ma c ro p h oto g r aphy accessory. I t wi l l enable you to suppor t or position subjects just where you want them. In turn, it can also help to provide endless possibilities of positioning backgrounds.
  • 14. MACRO TECHNIQUES  7. Fine-tune Macro Pattern Compositions  Fungi. Nikon D2X Nikon 105mm macro lens. 1/15sec @ f/11, ISO 100.  Although we can crop things using sof tware later, it is best to fine-tune composition in-camera at the time of shooting as much as possible.  With close-up pattern details, ensure they either fi l l the frame completely so that there are no gaps around the edges.  Alternatively show the entire pattern with space al l around it.  These two shots of the same fungus i l lustrate how these opposite approaches look in practice
  • 15. MACRO TECHNIQUES  8. Point of Focus  I t is imperative to consider the actual point of focus when working close-up with tiny subjects. You can dramatically change the appearance by where you chose to focus.  These two shots of the same teasle head were both shot at the same maximum aper ture, but the point of focus was changed by a couple of mi l l imetres to produce an entirely di f ferent ef fect.
  • 16. MACRO TECHNIQUES  9. Check LCD Panel  Use your rear LCD faci lity to ensure you have got the shot you want before moving on. Look careful ly at the corners to make sure there are no intrusions.  Tidy up any unwanted debris in the scene and make sure that your composition concentrates on your subject as intended. I t ’ s a l s o wi s e to c a r r y a s p a r e b a t te r y, a s c o n s t a n t l y r ev i ewin g shots wi l l drain power.
  • 17. MACRO TECHNIQUES  10. Raindrops  Af ter rain can be an excel lent time to search for macro subjects when everything is dripping with droplets of rain water.  Go in close to show how the raindrops act as miniature lenses, magnifying the veins in leaves.
  • 18. MY PHOTO SKETCHES AND PLANS
  • 20. BEST 4 PHOTOS I like this photo because of the extreme close up, and how the photographer captures such detail on the bee. The way the close up captures all the bristles on the snail and all the tiny particles of the ground its amazing. The way the back ground is all blurred out really impresses me because it really draws your attention to the front and all the bright colours. The eye is simply amazing because there aren’t many colours just the few colours there are just make the eye really stand out to the viewer.
  • 21. EXHIBITION  Title: spectrum of smal l l ife.  I would l ike to have al l my pictures on canvases or in frames.  how my design Is going to laid out: These little photos in the middle are of all the photos I think are the best. The larger ones on the side are of ones that need to be edited down so that they emphasise something in particular, this also includes the one on the bottom. This one is of my personal favourite photo that’s why there isn't one on the top.
  • 22.  Camera - £400  Tripod - £50  SD Card - £30  Macro lens - £180 EQUIPMENT