On the occasion of the 2nd Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh show held at Dhaka on 15th and 16th Oct'14, the seminar by Zafer Bozdag was done on 16th Oct . The presentation highlighted some of the details on origin of denim and then coming to the lastest developments in the last 20 years.

1. Cotton to Denim | A Journey in Last 20
Years
ZAFER BOZDAĞ,OCTOBER 2014

2. A presentation by Zafer Bozdag on 16th
October at Denimsandjeans.com
Bangladesh Show, Dhaka
ZAFER BOZDAĞ,OCTOBER 2014

3. WHAT IS DENIM?
Denim has been described as ;
 Indigo dyed warp dyed warp with raw cotton weft
Generally 3x1 Z twill
 Heavy weight , sturdy fabrics.. Generally was heavier than
14 oz/sq yd.
 Some part of descriptions are still valid for denim now.
 If we talk about denim, we need to talk about Indigo.
Indigo was produced from plants till the beginning of 1900 but now more than 95% is synthetic indigo.
 ZAFER BOZDAĞ, Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh Show , Oct’14, Dhaka

4. INDIGO
 Indigo is a unique dyestuff that gives the
legendary denim color.
 Derives from the greek Indikon….LatinThe
word İndicum originally meaning a substance
from india.
 Indigo had been produced from various
plants when Adolf Von Bayer invented the
syntethic indigo at 1881
There are still natural indigo productions…
Natural indigo production varies according to
different geographies.
 ZAFER BOZDAĞ, Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh Show , Oct’14, Dhaka

5.  Indigo was very important commodity as
sugar, rice, wheat etc.
 Sanskrit word nila, meaning dark blue… the
arabs conveyed nil… subsequently Spanish and
Portuguese transmitted the word anil.
 Green indigo… Mitsui have developed for new
indigo shade… They have tried to copy 60’ies
denim colors at the end of1980’ties.
 Liquid indigo has introduced by DYSTAR at
beginning of 2000
 ZAFER BOZDAĞ, Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh Show , Oct’14, Dhaka

6. DENIM AND JEANS
 The term denim was derived from the French
term ‘Serge De Nimes’,… Serge is twill in
French, Nimes is the name of a city. Twill from
Nimes… De Nimes was converted Denim.
 At the beginning Denim was used as a
workwear…
 There are more than one storıes about the name
of jeans
 ZAFER BOZDAĞ, Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh Show , Oct’14, Dhaka

7. The most popular one is a kind of pants
worn by Sailors from Genoa.
 At the beginning jeans has called ’’Waist
Overalls’’
 LEVI’S was founded at 1873, Similar pants
have produced more than 10 years before
LEVI’S
 ZAFER BOZDAĞ, Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh Show , Oct’14, Dhaka

8. AT THE BEGINNING SOME BRANDS
ESTABLISHED IN USA
 ‘’CAN’T BUST’EM, BY ELOESSER-HENEMANN(
1851)
 LEVI’S, BY LEVI STRAUSS & CO. (1873)
 CARHARTT, BY HAMILTON CARHARTT(1844)
 OSHGOSH, BY OSHGOSH B’ GOSH (1895)
 BOSS OF THE ROAD, BY NEUSTADER BROTHERS
(PRE 1900)
 HUDSON, BY HUDSON OVERALL CO.(1904)
 LEE, BY H.D. LEE MERCANTALE COMPANY(1911)
 WRANGLER, BY BLUE BELL(1919)
 ZAFER BOZDAĞ, Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh Show , Oct’14, Dhaka

9. DENIM PRODUCERS IN LATE
1800’TIES
 AMOSKEAG
 ERVIN
 CONE MILLS
 ZAFER BOZDAĞ, Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh Show , Oct’14, Dhaka

10. DENIM BRANDS BEFORE 1990’TIES
 LEVI’S
 LEE/WRANGLER
 RIFLE
 CALVIN KLEIN
 GUESS
 ZAFER BOZDAĞ, Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh Show , Oct’14, Dhaka

11. NEW COMERS TO DENIM MARKETS
BETWEEN LATE 1980’TIES AND MID OF
1990’TIES
 DIESEL
 REPLAY
 G-STAR
 GAP
 TOMMY HILFIGERS
 EVISU
 ZAFER BOZDAĞ, Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh Show , Oct’14, Dhaka

12. AT 2000 RETAIL AND CELEBRITY JEANS
 RETAILERS; ZARA AND H&M HAVE CHANGED
A LOT OF RULES IN THE MARKET.
 CELEBRITY JEANS HAVE CREATED SO MANY
INNOVATIONS.
 LAST 3-4 YEARS NEW TREND İS THE RAW
DENIM… IT HAS BEEN GROWING... IT WILL
BE VERY IMPORTANT IN NEAR FUTURE...
RAW DENIM CAN NEED DIFFERENT KINDS
OF FABRICS... EASIEST WAY IS TO PUT
NEW FINISH.
 ZAFER BOZDAĞ, Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh Show , Oct’14, Dhaka

13. WHAT WAS THE DENIM 20 YEARS BEFORE
 WEIGHTS
 FOR 5 POCKET JEANS:14.00 OZ AND
HEAVIER, 3X1, R/R, R/OE AND OE/OE,
GENERALLY Z TWILL
 FOR JACKET, OVERALLS AND CARPENTERS
11 OZ, 2X1, R/R, Z TWILL
 FOR SHIRTING:73/4, OZ. 2X1, Z TWILL
,
 SHAMBRE, 4 OZ., 1/1, R/R
 ZAFER BOZDAĞ, Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh Show , Oct’14, Dhaka

14. DENIM, NOW
 MORE THAN HALF OF THE DENIM IS
LIGHTER THAN 11.00 OZ… MOST OF THE 3X1
 EACH PRODUCERS HAVE PRODUCED
MORE THAN 20 COLORS… COLOR MIX OF
SULFUR, INDIGO VE OTHER DYESTUFFS
HAVE USED IN RECIPES.
 HALF OF THE DENIMS ARE STRETCHES, 20
YEARS BEFORE NOT MORE THAN 5%.
 ZAFER BOZDAĞ, Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh Show , Oct’14, Dhaka

15.  DENIM CAN BE SEEN IN FORMAL WEAR… WE CAN
SEE VERY NICE INDIGO SHIRTS, INDIGO SUITS,
INDIGO NIGHT DRESSES…
 HAVE TREATED LIKE SPORTWEAR FABRICS.
 THERE IS NO BOUNDARY BETWEEN SPORTWEAR
AND DENIM… SPORTWEAR GARMENTS ARE
TREATED LIKE DENIM, DENIM FABRICS DENIM
HAVE BEEN TRIED IN THE OTHER SIDES OF
TEXTILES… FORMAL WEAR AND HOME TEXTILE
 ZAFER BOZDAĞ, Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh Show , Oct’14, Dhaka

16. INNOVATION OF DENIM PRODUCTION’S
PROCESSES IN LAST 20 YEARS
 INDIGO COLORS HAVE BEEN MORE DARKER…
TEHERE ARE SOME INDIGO DYE RANGES WITH 14
BOXES… NOW 10 BOXES INDIGO DYE RANGE IS A
STANDARD .
 SLUB AND MULTICOUNT SPINNING
 LIQUID AMMONIA PROCESS HAS BEEN USED BY
NISHINGBO IN 1997… IDEA BEHIND THIS PROCESS TO
COPY NONSANFORIZED, HAND WASHED AND DRIED
UNDER THE SUN JEANS FABRICS.
 FLAT OPTIC PROCESS HAS PUT AS AN ALTERNATIVES
TO LIQUID AMMONIA BY ORTA FROM TURKEY
1998…AFTER 2000 THIS PROCESS HAVE BEE USED AS
STANDART PROCESS.
 ZAFER BOZDAĞ, Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh Show , Oct’14, Dhaka

17.  STRETCH FABRICS… FIRST TIME WAS USED BY
GLORIA VANDERBILT IN 1970’TIES… STRETCH
DENIM WAS NOT COMMERCIALLY IMPORTANT TILL
TO BEGINNING OF 2000.
 USING OF THE RESIN IN GARMENT FINISHING
 COATING DENIM(ESPECIALYY MATRIXS FROM ISKO
 INDIGO APPLICATION WITH GASTON FOAM SYSTEM.
 ZAFER BOZDAĞ, Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh Show , Oct’14, Dhaka

18. CREATIVE IDEAS FOR DENIM
PRODUCTIONS
@ WATERLESS INDIGO DYEING AND FINIS-HING…
NO WASTE WATER IN PRODUCTION
PROCESS
@ SPINNING WITH SHORT STABLE FIBER AS
DOUBLE TWIST YARN HANDS.
@ COLOR INDIGO
 ZAFER BOZDAĞ, Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh Show , Oct’14, Dhaka

19. @ NATUREL FIBER MIXES
@ SOFT TOUCHES AND BRILLANT LOOK
FABRICS, WITH VERY GOOD WASH
PERFORMANS AND REASONABLE COSTS.
@USING LAZER TECHNOLOGY ON
DENIM FINISHING
@ BLACK INDIGO COLOR… AS THE SAME AS
EFFECTS LIKE NORMAL INDIGO… COLORS
HAVE TO BE ACHIEVED FROM BLACK TO
GREY.
 ZAFER BOZDAĞ, Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh Show , Oct’14, Dhaka

20.  I LOVE FINISHING
This book is very important for history of Denim Finishing… You can
reach this book from website of Martelli ; www.martelli.it
 DENIM DESIGN LAB; BY BRIAN ROBBINS
 INDIGO ; BY JENNY BALFOUR-PAUL
 WEBSITE OF LEVI’S
 ZAFER BOZDAĞ, Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh Show , Oct’14, Dhaka

21.  ZAFER BOZDAĞ, Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh Show , Oct’14, Dhaka

22.  ZAFER BOZDAĞ, Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh Show , Oct’14, Dhaka

23.  ZAFER BOZDAĞ, Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh Show , Oct’14, Dhaka

24. THANK YOU VERY MUCH
 ZAFER BOZDAĞ,
Denimsandjeans.com Bangladesh
Show , Oct’14, Dhaka
www.denimsandjeans.com/bdshow