Guidelines industrial engineering

Guidelines
Industrial Engineering
KSA-Technopak

Gen-Prom, UNDP KSA-Technopak2
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page No
1. Industrial Engineering Scope & Significance
2. Scope of Apparel Engineering
3. The Benefits of Engineering
4. Applications of Industrial Engineering
4.1. Merchandising
4.2. Production Planning
4.3. Production
4.4. Maintenance
4.5. Quality
4.6. Human Resource
4.7. Production Follow Up
5. Concept of Product Engineering
6. Method Study
6.1. The Method Study ‘7 Step’ Procedure
6.2. The Principles of Motion Economy
6.2.1. The Principles of Motion Economy as related to workplace
6.2.2. The Principles of Motion Economy as related to design of
tools & equipments
6.3. Methods Engineering
6.3.1. Tools for methods engineering
6.3.2. Specific Sewing Room Methods Approaches
6.4. Checklist for Improving Garment Operations
6.4.1. Layout & Relation to other operations
6.4.2. Handling of Garments & Parts
6.4.3. Machines, Equipments etc.
6.4.4. Sewing Operation
6.4.5. General
6.5. Good Sewing methods Checklist – Description of Motion
6.6. Engineering Methods Improvement
6.6.1. Big Methods
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5
7
8
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16

6.6.2. Little Methods
6.6.3. Benefits of methods Improvement
7. Time & Motion Analysis
7.1. Technopak Time Study Procedure
7.2. Elements & Break points
7.3. Notes on Time Study
7.4. Rating
8. Performance Development
8.1. Capacity Study
8.1.1. What is Capacity Study
8.1.2. How to make a Capacity Study
8.2. Follow-Up
8.2.1. Bundle by bundle follow-up
8.2.2. Other forms of follow-up
8.2.3. Uses of Operator Follow-Up
Annexure
Annexure 1:- Time Study Sheet
Annexure 2:- Bundle by bundle follow up sheet
Annexure 3:- Bundle Diagnosis Sheet
Annexure 4:- Filled format of Operation Bulletin
Annexure 5:- Filled format of methods description
Annexure 6:- Capacity Study Sheet
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1. INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING – DEFINITION & SIGNIFICANCE
The truth is that engineers and engineering mean many things to many people. In our
discussion on engineering, we want to talk about the branch of engineering known as
Industrial Engineering and, more specifically, Industrial Engineering as it relates to the
apparel industry. Before we do this, however, let's see if we can define some basic terms
and concepts that will make our discussion more meaningful.
Engineering is difficult to boil down into a simple definition, but for our purpose here let's
use the following:
Engineering - a science by which the properties of matter and the sources of energy in
nature are made useful to man.
Now let's go one step farther and define Industrial Engineering. Let's define Industrial
Engineering this way:
Industrial Engineering: the engineering approach applied to all factors, including the
human factor, involved in the production and distribution of products and services.
Now that we have arrived at a definition of Industrial Engineering, let's talk about what
things are done by an Industrial Engineer. Let's refer to these as the scope of this job.
1. Study, measure, and improve the way individuals perform their jobs.
2. Design and install a better system of coordinating the jobs assigned to individuals into
a group effort.
3. Specify, predict, and evaluate results obtained.
From this we can, perhaps, oversimplify things for the purpose of understanding
Now let's go one step farther and define Industrial Engineering. Everybody will agree
that a simple definition of Industrial Engineering is:
- A logical way to find out:
The best way to do something
The time required to do it
The way to measure results

2. THE SCOPE OF APPAREL ENGINEERING
The two steps of finding the best way to do a job and then timing to find out how long it
takes, are referred to as Motion Study and Time Study. Engineers are taught to do the
Motion Study first, as any time study data on incorrect motions is not of much value.
Some uses of Apparel Engineering are:
1. Quotas and piece rates
2. Costing: By knowing how long it takes to perform a job, the total time and cost
for manufacturing a product can be determined. Determine sales price.
3. Manpower Planning: By knowing how many units one person can produce it
can be determined how many people are needed to produce a given volume.
4. Machine Requirements: The number of machines required can be determined
by knowing the output from one machine.
5. Production Planning: Time study enables us to measure the capacity of a plant
to produce. Decision as to how much volume to load into a plant can be made.
These are only a few of the common uses of Motion and Time Study. As we can now
see, the information obtained is useful far beyond just setting quotas and piece rates.
As we have already mentioned, Motion and Time Study is the most common function
associated with an apparel engineer. But what are some of his other duties?
Let's list some of the other things we might find an apparel engineer doing:
1. Plant Layout
The location of machines and equipment to provide the best work flow.
2. Production Flow System
Determine the best way to move work from job to job (individual pieces, tied
bundles, on trucks, etc.)
3. Machines and Attachments
What machines are the best for a given job? What attachments simplify the job?

4. Pay Systems
Deciding the best way to pay people for their work effort. (Straight time,
piecework, split incentive, group incentive, straight time bonus, etc.)
5. Operator Performance
Responsibility for operators achieving expected performance levels.
6. Operator Training
Responsibility for program of training new employees.
7. Production Control System
Design system of measuring and controlling production flow through plant.
8. Cutting Room
Engineering jobs in cutting room for incentive plan. Also might include program to
increase material utilisation.
9. Quality Control
Design program to measure and control quality of workmanship in plant.
10. Distribution
Engineer warehouse and shipping facilities.
11. Payroll System
Design payroll procedure to handle pay system and generate necessary cost
reports.
12. Others
Plant safety, maintenance, supplies.

3. THE BENEFITS OF ENGINEERING
1. Work Simplification
One of the main benefits of almost any engineering effort is that it makes work simpler to
perform. This holds true for operators, supervisors, and top management. When an
engineer analyses any area of work, he does so with the thought in mind.
Do not be misled about into thinking, however, that work simplification means people
always will be doing less work. They may, in fact, do more work but within the same
amount of time as before. Because work has been simplified, people's ability to produce
is increased.
2. Increased Productivity
The ability to produce more within the same amount of time is a company's insurance for
survival. This ability means that the company can now accept more work. It means that
costs can be lowered by avoiding overtime. It means that fixed costs can be spread out
over more units of production. It means that profits Improve.
3. Increased Profits
When a company's profits increase, everyone involved is in a better position. Owners
and stockholders prosper. Management and supervision are rewarded for their
performance. Money is available to do more for the operators. A company is able to
expand which creates more Jobs.
4. Increased Earnings
Most engineering projects not only increase company profits, but also result in higher
earnings for employees. Most companies are willing, and in fact eager, to share with its
employees the financial gains that are available through engineering.

4. APPLICATIONS OF INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING
The roles and responsibilities of the industrial engineering department are not just limited
to timing operators and making operation bulletins as it is only a part of the job. The I.E
function can contribute significantly to improvement in working and productivity of almost
all the departments of apparel manufacturing. Let us discuss few of the activities of
various sections of apparel manufacturing which can be associated with industrial
engineering:
4.1 Merchandising
In merchandising section the Industrial engineer can work closely in following:
a) Product Analysis-
• Determine the optimum method of construction to achieve required
finished product efficiently.
• Establish the operation sequence (Operation bulletin).
• Specify the equipment type and work aids to be used
Operation Bulletin is an important tool used for product analysis. Operation bulletin is a
documented form of sequence of operations in a product. It contains all the information
about the machine required and the total no. of operations, total no. of operator required.
Operation bulletin contains the standard times for each operation. Operation bulletin
also contains some other parameters as follows:
Output (pieces per day)
Target efficiency
Minutes per day
Total standard time
Total no of work places
In simple way we can say that operation bulletin is a record of
• Equipment type
• Machine attachments
• Workplace engineering aids
• Standard time for each operation

It can be extended to include
• Hourly/ period targets for each operation
• Manpower Requirements
• Equipment Requirements
It should cover all operations that can be directly related to single unit of a product e.g.
• Spread and cut
• Sew including manual operations
• Finish and pack
The operation bulletin is a fundamental planning tool used for many functions such as
• Capacity planning
• Methods engineering
• Line planning
• Performance measurement
• Manpower planning
• Investment appraisal
• Incentive payment
• Factory loading
The operation Bulletin should be developed at the earlier stage of product development.
b) Costing-
• The first stage is to calculate the SMV of the garment
• To calculate the production cost for that particular garment by
multiplying the total SMV of the garment with the average cost incurred
by the factory to produce one SMV.
4.2 Production Planning
Production planning is an essential prerequisite to production control. It involves
management decisions on the resources that the firm will require for its manufacturing
operations and selection of these resources to produce the desired goods at the
appropriate time and at the least cost.
Production planning is defined as, “the technique of foreseeing or picturing ahead, every
step in along series of separate operations, each step to be taken in the right place, of

the right degree and at the right time, and each operation to be done at maximum
efficiency.”
Production planning provide a line for effective, balanced flow of product, incorporating
line and individual (operation) productivity standards.
The end product of production planning efforts is the formulation of production plans.
The plans are formulated in light of specified future period. The plans are to be
implemented in the light of the estimated cost and agreed policies
• Plant capacity can be calculated by I.E dept so that planning can book order as per
the available capacity.
• I.E can assist in better planning by helping in better style allocation to different units
or lines.
• I.E can formulate an efficiency/performance build-up for a particular style based upon
the work content or past performance. This can inform the planning dept that a
particular line will take how many days to produce a specific quantity of a style. This
will help the planning dept to plan the availability of resources and material in
advance.
4.3 Production
Industrial engineering is a key part of a production process. One of the basic functions of
engineering is to get facts. These facts may be in form of a time study, the engineer has
made or cost report the engineer has designed. So we can say that the basic need for
engineering is the need for management information.
Work-in-Progress (WIP) control-
WIP is made up of all garments and their parts that are not completely finished. For
example a bundle of shirts that has everything attached but has no bottom hem. There
are two cost areas that can be reduced if WIP is controlled:
• Investment in inventory- Inventory is money invested in raw materials. When we
don’t move the goods through the plant quickly we are affecting cash flow directly.
• Ability to reduce the production cycle- By having low inventory between operations,
garments usually have less waiting time and go through the production cycle in less
time. Large inventory levels between operations keeps goods waiting longer to be
processed. This increases the overall throughput time.

Low throughput time permits better co-ordination between sales and production. It also
permits a quicker turnaround on which improves cash flow. Low cycle times give
manufacturers the ability to handle multiple styles.
Buyers are looking for manufacturers that can meet production schedules, that can
handle multiple styles, and since they want to invest as little as possible in inventory,
manufacturers that can handle low inventories. Only factories that work with low WIP will
be able to sell their services.
Managing WIP:
i) Production planning- This requires planning from marketing and sales to
determine what will sell and what needs to be produced and when. This
provides the basis to determine how many operators and machines will be
needed. I.E can calculate the required resources to any style and block the
capacity for this style at a specific efficiency build up.
ii) Trims control- Trims are buttons, zippers, labels, thread, elastics, and so on.
A cut should enter the production line only when someone has verified that all
the trims needed are available. An updated inventory of trims should be kept.
A missing label could halt a 12,000 unit cut. Holding the 12,000 units in
inventory is not acceptable and could lead to other problems.
iii) Production Build-up- Careful consideration should be given to loading the
production lines. If you feed into the line more product that can be processed
you will overload the line with work that will just sit stagnant. I.E can provide
figures in terms of production to be expected from any line which can help in
feeding control and thus managing the WIP.
iv) Balancing- Even if you load the line based on its capacity, you might find the
inventory accumulating due to an unbalanced production. Absenteeism and
turnover can greatly affect the line’s balance. A change in style and irregular
feeding are two other factors that can put a line off-balance. To keep a line
balanced you need information on the inventory levels. While allocating
operator to the operation, the skill requirement for that operation should be
kept in mind. To help regain balance in an unbalanced situation industrial
engineer can use Utility operators, operator transfers and overtime as the last
option.
v) Cut Flow Control- In order to keep control over WIP and to keep the cycle
times low you need to have cuts go as close as FIFO as possible. For this
reason strict control must be placed on the tracking of cuts as they flow
through the production floor.

The industrial engineering is very useful in:
a. Standardisation- You can appreciate the need for standard convocations in
managing your department. Think of confusion that would result if each
operator on a job performed his or her work differently from anyone else.
Suppose quality specifications changed every day so that what passed
yesterday rejected today. Effective supervision is impossible without
standardisation of methods, equipment; and conditions. Engineering helps to
standardise.
b. Production Scheduling- In order to run your department efficiently, you
need a firm schedule of production. Suppose there was no way of knowing
how more work your section could handle. Do you think that there would be
much of that someone could guess exactly right as to how much work to load
in? Of course not!
In order to schedule work accurately, someone needs to know how long it
takes to go through each operation. Engineering data helps to make this
decision.
c. Fair Payment of Employees- In order to pay employees fairly, we need to
know the value of the work they produce, Since part of engineering function
is to measure work.
d. Prevention of Chaos- Any attempt to run a department without standardised
conditions, without a production schedule, and without fair payment to the
employees is doomed to chaos and failure.
So main production functions of engineering are:
a) Develop detailed production methods, from detailed manual moments
to major decisions on technology.
b) Documents all the methods using manuals, computer based system as
appropriate.
c) Justify all changes based on analyses of the work content in the
operation, taking account of skill requirements
d) Define the appropriate WIP level and develop WIP measuring and
control techniques.

4.4 Maintenance
Proper maintenance leads to better capacity utilisation of same asset, avoiding thus the
investment in addition facilities. So far industries have a tendency to neglect
maintenance function, thinking it be a not so important job, however necessary. It has
been taken just for granted. Plant maintenance is important and inevitable service
function of an efficient production system. It helps in maintaining and increasing the
operational efficiency of plant facilities and thus contributes of the revenue by reducing
the operating cost and increasing the quality of quality of the production
4.5 Quality
Quality is an asset, which may be offered to the potential customer of a product. There
are two aspects of quality, which contribute to the ultimate quality of the product. Quality
of design is the first aspect, which depends on the type of materials used, specs
specified by the buyer, method of production, knowledge of the design and skill level of
the person. The degree to which this quality is achieved in production that is the quality
of conformance is the second aspect.
Industrial Engineering can help converting quality specifications into technical
parameters to ensure that quality requirements are met with during the manufacturing
process. I.E helps in selecting the equipments and method of the job so as the final
product conforms to the specifications.
4.6 Human Resource
a. Manpower Planning- I.E can calculate the manpower required to perform a specific
job at a certain performance level.
Once the work content of any job is analyzed by I.E dept, the next step is to find out
the resources required to complete that job. This principle can be applied
successfully especially on the production floor where work content of each job is
measured using time study techniques.
The manpower can also be calculated as per the capacity of the plant using standard
ratios like Man to Machine ratio. The number of people for a factory having x number
of machines can be fixed through this ratio (South Asia standard is 1.8 : 1).
b. Skill Matrix- Skill matrix refers to the database of available worker skill in the factory.
The workers’ skill is analyzed on different jobs and based upon his/her performance
on a particular job a grade is given. This grade defines the level of performance that
operator can achieve on that specific job.

This matrix is used in 2 ways:
• While allocating workers to a job as per the skill requirement of that job.
• To analyse the skill availability and distribution through out the factory.
This can be compared with the skill requirement for a particular time
period and shortage/excess skill availability to achieve at the training
requirement. This shortfall in availability of any skill can be overcome by
conducting a specific training program or through recruitment also.
• Skill matrix helps in allocating right person for the right job which helps in
achieving desired performance level.
c. Performance Measurement- For measuring the performance of any individual first
step is to define the targets and second step is to develop performance measuring
tools. An industrial engineer can help in setting up of measurable goals and targets,
which could be time standards for an operator and key performance indicators for
middle & senior management. Next step is to set up systems and define a
methodology to capture the performance on regular basis and analyse the results.
d. Training- Industrial engineering should be responsible of working on a scientific
recruitment methodology for workers so as to check the basic skills are already
present in the selected personnel. The training methodology for these trainees
should target towards efficient and rapid learning with proper control tools in place.
This training could be as per the results of the skill matrix to train people on skills
which are not available at present but are required on regular basis or in near future.
4.7 Production Follow up
"Follow up" means that someone "checks and Stays with" something until the desired
results have been achieved. Many worthwhile plans and projects have failed because
someone did not follow up. So for the purposes of this training, follow up means to stay
on top of something until the desired results are achieved."
Uses of operator follow up:
There are a number of uses for operator follow up:
a. Improve Performance (Motivate)
In many cases, operators are not producing as much as they can. They have no
particular problems, but are just not giving it the effort to be a 100 percent operator.
Follow up in this case is a matter of motivation. The person doing the follow up should

not only show the operator that she can do well, but should also make her want to
continue to do well. Most people who are capable will perform well under follow up. And
once they have performed well for several days or a week (or maybe more) they get
used to this type of performance (and earnings) and then tend to stay there.
b. Prove Job Quotas
Perhaps the most common use of follow up (at least by engineers) is to prove a new
quota. In other words, the quota will be proved if the operator performs well when
compared to the new quota. Very often operators have a psychological resistance to
change. It is essential to get the operators to overcome this psychological barrier, and
that can be done through follow up and showing the operators that changes can be
made satisfactorily.
c. Spot Troubles
Occasionally, there seems to be no logical explanation as to why an operator is not
performing. Follow up in this case can uncover problems that need to be solved such as
machine delay, work flow, small bundles, too much personal time, etc.

5. CONCEPT OF PRODUCT ENGINEERING LAB
The product engineering lab is the heart of all research and development works in
the apparel manufacturing. The product engineering lab caters to all departments
with special emphasis on production department to provide low cost measures to
improve the overall working or to provide solution to any problem in specific.
The role of the production engineering lab is as follows:
1. To study all forthcoming styles and analyse the sequence of operation suggested by
industrial engineer to check for any improvement in the equipments, process flow,
sequence of operations, folders & attachments, work aids for achieving better
productivity & quality with low cost of production.
2. To coordinate with engineers working on floor to discuss the problems faced during
production and deviation in the suggested and actual results and to provide timely
solutions for these problems.
3. To work on continuous improvement program for developing new methods,
folders/attachments, work aids.
4. To get involved in the product during the sampling stage itself to suggest better
manufacturing techniques and to anticipate the potential troubles that could come
during production. Product engineering lab should suggest a solution for these
troubles as in some case approval from merchandiser or buyer is required to change
the construction and seam/stitch types.
5. To work closely with product development cell on converting the designing attributes
into engineering attributes
6. Product engineering lab should also suggest solution to quality issues.
7. The lab should keep a track of latest machineries and advancement in the field of
apparel manufacturing and suggest new machines and production techniques for
efficient production
8. The industrial engineer in the Product Engineering lab should be able to allocate the
requirements on resources and also advise the production planning on the possible
targets which can be achieved – taking into account the past performance on
previous styles.

6. METHOD STUDY
Industrial Engineering, which is often substituted by the term Work Study has 2
fundamental parts
Work Study
First Then
Method Study
Simplify the task
(or eliminate it)
‘Engineer the operation’
Reduce the inherent
work content taking
account of the skill
required to perform the
task set
Work Measurement
Measure the work
content in the task
How long should it take
a trained and motivated
‘standard’ operator to
perform the task
Productivity Gain
In this course we will cover Method Study first and then Work measurement - The ‘how
to’ and then the ‘How long’

6.1 The Method Study ‘7 step’ procedure
1
Select
The work to be studied
2
Define
Objectives
3
Record
Relevant information and data
4
Examine
Relevant information and data
5
Develop
The improved method
6
Install
The improved method
7
Maintain
The improved method

6.2 The Principles of Motion Economy
The effectiveness of a motion pattern is determined by The Principles of Motion
Economy
The most important of these are:
Use of the Human Body
The Workplace
Design of Tools and Equipment
Finally, remember the big picture. All methods improvements have a cost, but some cost
far more than others
Think of methods improvements as
Big Methods Or Little methods
It’s free!!!!!
The highest productivity is achieved when we:
• Reduce the Number of motions
• Reduce the distances moved
• Reduce precision
• Reduce eye-shifts
• Simplify grasps
• Toss dispose rather than place dispose
• Make the best use of both hands

• Encourage rhythm
• Promote natural posture and movement
6.2.1 Principles of motion economy as related to the workplace
1. There should be a definite and fixed place for all tools and materials.
2. Tools, materials and controls should be located close in and directly in front of the
operator. Boxes for parts as in the elastic and tabs example, label holders on the
machine head and turning attachments between machine head and the operator on
the edge of the table are examples. Tables to the left of the needle are often best
cut away to allow trucks to be moved as near as possible to the needle.
3. Gravity feed bins and containers should be used to deliver material close to the point
of use.
4. "Drop deliveries" should be used wherever possible; example:
a. Gravity feed bins for pieces such as hooks and eyes, zipper slides, buttons,
etc.
5. Materials and tools should be located to permit the best sequence of motions, for
example:
a. Right angled layout of tandem presses with disposal rail between them and
pick-up opposite the disposal with room for operator to turn and move in a
straight line between the two.
6. Provision should be made for adequate conditions for seeing. Good illumination is
the first requirement for satisfactory visual perception. This is a specialist subject on
its own but good fluorescent general lighting and needle lights are commonly
accepted practice in sewing rooms.
7. The height of the workplace and the chair should be arranged so that alternate sitting
and standing at work is easily possible. This is not generally possible on sewing
operations but inspection tables and other manual operations can be set at the
correct height (1" to 3" below elbow for alternate sitting and standing).
8. A chair of the type and height to permit good posture should be provided for every
operator; example:
a. All seats should be adjustable to suit different heights.

6.2.2 Principles of motion economy as related to the design of tools and
equipment
1. The hands should be relieved of all work that can be done more advantageously by a
jig, a fixture, or a foot operated device; example:
a. Foot pedal operated clamps on stackers
b. Foot operated controls on a needle positioner.
c. Knee operated needle positioner.
d. Foot pedal operated pocket turning attachment which pushes a blade into
the comer of the pocket.
2. Two or more tools should be combined wherever possible; example:
a. Attachments already mentioned which perform two operations at once.
3. Tools and materials should be pre-positioned whenever possible; example:
a. Suspension of hand iron over buck.
4. Where each finger performs some specific movement, such as in typewriting, the
load should be distributed in accordance with the capacities of the fingers; example:
a. The forefinger is the strongest and finger controls such as steam controls on
irons and solenoid actuators are best positioned so that they are in fact
operated by the forefinger.
5. Handles such as used on cranks and large screwdrivers should be designed to
permit as much of the surface of the hand to come into contact with the handle as
possible. This principle is of minor importance in sewing room work.
6. Levers, crossbars and hand wheels should be located in such a position that the
operator can manipulate them with the least change in body position and with the
greatest mechanical advantage. Ibis principle applies particularly to the design of
machines and one can think of many controls which do not obey this rule, such as
reverse levers. Incidentally, there are now available foot and elbow operated
reverse levers which show that the principle is in fact being applied as machine
design improves.

Fundamental questions about sewing operation
1. Is this operation necessary?
2. Should this operation or portions of the operation be combined with another
operation?
3. Is the operation performed in the correct sequence?
4. What sewing machine attachments or work-aids are needed?
5. Will the operation yield satisfactory levels of quality?
6. What type of training curve will the job yield?
7. What material usage factors are affected by the job?
8. What principles related to the usage of the human body should be taken into
account?
9. What considerations on space and indirect labour requirement (helper) apply?
6.3 Methods Engineering
This topic involves methods engineering at the individual workplace. It is important to
note that methods engineering is greatly influenced by the basic sewing room design.
The use of a transporter for example can sometimes limit workplace refinement. For this
reason, it is necessary to plan methods and sewing room design simultaneously so that
the correct trade-offs between effective individual operation methods and the realities of
the business objectives are chosen. Machinery selection must, of course, be related to
methods engineering. Also, methods standardisation is an absolute requirement for
accurate work measurement which will be discussed in the next section.
For purposes of this discussion we shall assume the sewing room design is correct and
that we have selected the best machine for each individual operation in the sewing
room.
Before considering specific methods for a job, a series of fundamental questions should
be asked about the operation.
Once these fundamental questions have been resolved, detailed methods engineering
can begin. In this regard, there are several basic industrial engineering tools which are
often helpful.
6.3.1 Tools for Methods Engineering
a. Process Charting

For methods analysis, charting techniques are available. Multiple activity charts (Gang
Process) are used where a crew of operators work on the same operation or assembly
line. Man-machine charts are used to analyse the operator’s activity in relation to the
machine. Micro-motion studies and charting on a Micro-Motion Study Simo Chart is
another approach. For the typical sewing operation, the use of a simple left hand -
right hand chart describing the motions of each hand and the time value is often
adequate. In short, it is usually helpful to make a detailed examination of the existing
motion path utilised and process charting forces one to do this.
b. Principles of Motion Economy
Once we have formally analysed the basic motions involved, it is possible to apply the
laws of Motion Economy. These rules have been researched extensively by Professor
Ralph M. Barnes of the University of California. Since approximately 80%
of typical operation time in sewing involves handling to and from the machine, it is
critical that the basic motions used are sound.
An application of principles 1 and 3 would be the pick up of a pocket and facing one
with each hand simultaneously.
c. General Classification of Hand Motions
One important principle of motion economy relates to the classification of hand
motions. These are categorised as follows:
(1) Finger motions.
(2) Motions involving fingers and wrist.
(3) Motions involving fingers, wrist and forearm.
(4) Motions involving fingers, wrist, forearm and upper arm.
(5) Motions involving fingers, wrist, forearm, upper arm and shoulder.
The law states the lowest classification is usually preferred since it requires the least
amount of time and effort, and produces less fatigue. An example of the use of this
principle involves picking up of a front from overhead shelf. This effectively reduces
motion class to (3) versus class (5).
d. Precision
Another technique is to reduce precision in the required finger motions by use of such
devices as edge guides and label dispensers as well as sewing tolerances of the stitch
line.

e. Kinesthetic Sense
A final fundamental technique involves Kinesthetic Sense. it is generally true that a
person can reach to a location on his body much more effectively than to some
inanimate object away from his body. An example is touching the end of your nose
versus the tip of your tie. Because of this, it is often helpful to position garment parts in
the operators lap for pick-up or dispose. Another example would be a shoulder pick-up.
6.3.2 Specific Sewing Room Methods Approaches
Having discussed the general industrial engineering methods tools relevant to sewing
room methods analysis, we would now like to discuss some specific considerations for
the apparel workplace.
a. Table Cut-off or Extension
This can be to the side near or front of machine. The reason is to get the work closer
to the needle and reduce the class of motion required. An example would be a clamp
truck brought right up to needle where the left end of table has been cut off flush with
the end of machine bed.
b. Raising of Machine
On some jobs raising the table level is effective. This permits maximum use of a
waterfall dispose. It also permits the operator to work from mobile devices such as a
clamp truck or rolling racks. An example would be final ticket tacking to tail of coat
hanging on rolling rack and after final press.
c. Special Work Aids
These are work aids which are not available from an equipment supplier such as a
specially designed ticket holder. In many cases they will reduce the precision required
in the finger motion.
d. Chutes and Mobile Carts
Bundle handling and clip and stack elements can often be eliminated by leaving work
in a sewn chain between operations in a chute or mobile cart. Fly serging (in trousers)
might be an example.
e. Special Pick-up Shelves

A simple overhead shelf or box for pick-up can often permit simultaneous pick-ups &
reduce the required class of motion. Eg, fronts & backs on a shoulder join operation.
f. Table Cut-Out
Sometimes a hole can be cut in the table top so that work can be slid into a sunken
box for disposal. An example would be closing front pockets on pants.
g. Close Location of Parts to Needle
While this is obvious, it is often overlooked.
h. Disposal Configuration
This should be traced from operation to operation to insure that an advantage can be
gained by disposing in a particular configuration for the next operation.
i. Pick Up and Position Without Re-grasp
Many operators will unconsciously re-grasp the material rather than move straight to
the needle. This can add significantly to the time required.
j. Folding or Matching of Parts En Route to Machine
Again, an obvious but often overlooked technique.
k. Simultaneous Motions
This can often reduce and dispose elements by up to 50%.
l. Threads Broken During sewing or Other Element
Where precision is not required during the sewing element, it is often possible to snap
thread and dispose to rear while sewing.
m. Use of Foot or Knee Operated Devices
An example is a foot activated scissors knife to cut binding tape on dress bottoms.
n. Clamping Work for Waterfall Dispose
The dispose element can sometimes be eliminated by this technique.

This is not a complete list of possible sewing methods improvements; however, it does
demonstrate application of most of the basic IE principles. You will note that some of
these are basic and subtle. We often distinguish between "big methods" and "little
methods." Cutting off a table top and clamping the work is a big method improvement
obvious to all. Eliminating unnecessary re-grasping en route to the needle is a little
method. Many manufacturers underestimate the tremendous gains to be made by
emphasising sound "little methods." In our experience these often contribute
substantially to operator effectiveness.
Summary
The preceding comments have shown that there are fundamental industrial engineering
principles which when translated into specific apparel methods techniques reduce cycle
requirements and operator fatigue.
Many companies spend a lot of time looking for machines which will reduce cost in the
sewing room. This is proper; however, there is often an even greater potential to be
gained from common sense methods improvements. Of course, this means getting out
on the floor and working with and training sewing machine operators and too often this is
avoided. There is nothing more impressive than to walk through a sewing room where
operators are employing good fundamental methods. It usually means that the company
has a proper sense of priority on how their direct labour RUPEES are being spent.
6.4 Checklist for Improving Garment Operations
7.4.1 Layout and Relation to Other Operations
(1) Would it simplify work if this operation were performed sooner or later relative to
others?
(2) Is this operation best located relative to preceding and succeeding operations?
(3) Is this operation absolutely necessary (consider design changes that might
eliminate it)?
(4) Would it be less work if this job were combined with others? Or subdivided itself
(5) Are parts, tools, and equipment located near as possible to where needed?
(6) Are garment parts and bundle best side up, also best side toward operator?

(7) Are parts conveniently held?
(8) Did previous operator dispose best for this operation?
(9) Is place for disposal convenient and bench, horse, rod, or truck as advisable and
located where best suited for purpose?
(10) Could workplace be made more convenient by cutting off side or rear of table or
widening it? Would more table in front of machine assist (often true on long
runs)?
(11) Would elevating machine or tilting it assist (especially on disposal)?
6.4.2 Handling of Garment and Parts
(1) Are parts picked up ready for use without change of grasp?
(2) Are all possible folding and positioning done as work is moved to location?
(3) Are both hands used at all times when possible?
(4) Does one hand dispose as other gets next garment?
(5) Is jerk of garment for disposal used to break threads at same time?
(6) Could small items be hopper-fed or in containers where slid off projecting lip (as
buttons)?
(7) Could pick-up be assisted by rubber fingertip, suction devices, etc.?
(8) Would chutes between operators assist (line style) or is bundle handling
preferable?
(9) Are special bundle ties worthwhile? Can bundles be started out and passed along
without tying?
(10) Is most economical bundle size used?

6.4.3 Machines, Equipment, Etc.
(1) Would needle feed, regular feed, or walking foot machine be better?
(2) Would chain stitch or lockstitch machine be better?
(3) Would flatbed, off-arm, up-arm, post machine, tacker, button or buttonhole
(possibly used as tacker) serger or combination seamer and serger make any part
of job easier?
(4) Would different feeds, feet, or other parts assist?
(5) Would automatic thread cutter as one sews off material assist? Or cutter on rear of
foot? Or ring cutter on operator's finger?
(6) Would folder of different type or capacity assist?
(7) Would guides or stops or marks on machine or table assist in locating or indicating
distances to sew?
(8) Would punch marks or notches in work help?
(9) Are parts cut to fit so as to make sewing easy as possible?
(10) Would having parts with edges creased on a folding machine pay? Edges
hemmed before sewing on?
(11) Can operator run several machines of this or other type together?
(12) Would compressed air operation (as on presses), hydraulic or solenoid operated
controls assist?
(13) Is equipment in good operating condition?
(14) Is machine speed best possible?
(15) Is best number of stitches used?
(16) Is height of table, chairs, benches, treadle, and knee-lift correct?

6.4.4 Sewing Operation
(1) Does operator do all possible folding, thread breaks, picking up next pieces, etc.,
as sewing?
(2) Has operator started sewing at best point for ease, fewest thread breaks, most
accurate placement, etc.?
(3) Can operator eliminate any thread breaks, as turning over parts and sewing other
side without breaking thread?
(4) Can operator check other work while sewing?
(5) Are foot controls used when possible to free hands?
(6) Should operator run all pieces to bind and then cut apart?
(7) Can several stitching be run and cut together?
(8) Could cutting or thread breaks be eliminated or better be done by later operators?
(9) Are best types of needles and thread used? Ready-wound bobbins pay?
6.4.5 General
(1) Would rest pauses be helpful?
(2) Are lighting, heating, and ventilation okay?
(3) Are operators trained to work smoothly, avoiding nervous, fidgety motions?
(4) Can part of inspection be done during other operations? Should amount be
reduced or increased? Should part be done in process or all at completion?
Would percentage check be sufficient?
(5) Are delays avoided by good supervision of work flow?
(6) Are sufficient spare machines available?
(7) Are sufficient utility operators available to compensate for normal absenteeism?

(8) Are changes of garment types kept to a minimum (consistent with sales
necessities)?
(9) Is training program adequate to see that improved methods are put into practice
and kept there?
(10) Are incentives adequate and covering all possible operators?
(11) Would music during work reduce fatigue or boredom?
(12) Would a stationary or movable clamp reduce bundle or garment handling time?

6.5 Good sewing methods checklist - description of motion
Was Each Item Checked
Before Study
Yes No
I GET
(A) Does disposal of previous operation leave parts in best
position for get.
(B) Locate parts as close to needle as possible.
(C) Easiest grasp of parts from an original bundle.
1. Pinch
2. Peel
3. Rub
(D) Get part without looking
(E) Grasp with hold that will serve for prepare for needle or
load folder.
(F) Get parts during sewing period.
II PREPARE FOR NEEDLE OR INSERT IN FOLDER
(A) Assemble parts or fold directly in front of needle. (Not
re-position).
(B) Insert part in folder with a single push
III. SEW
(A) Retain original alignment of parts while sewing.
(B) Resume sewing after start without pause (Full Speed)
(C) Quick turns while sewing.
(D) Continuous and full speed sewing
(E) Turn needle up using power pedal.
(F) Push finished part ahead while sewing
IV. DISPOSE
(A) Dispose by throwing
(B) Dispose without looking
(C) Can auto cutter and stacker be used
V. MOTIONS (Use simplest motion classification where
possible)
(A) Finger only
(B) Finger and wrist only
(C) Finger, wrist, and lower arm only
(D) Finger, wrist, lower arm, and shoulder.

(E) Body – Finger, wrist, lower arm, shoulder and body
only.
(F) Are the Laws of Motion and their corollaries being
enforced.
6.6 Engineering Methods Improvement
There are two separate areas of sewing methods that can be considered in any program
of methods improvement for lack of better terms they are called big methods and little
methods.
Big Methods are the machines, attachments, work aids, table alterations, etc. that can
improve an operation. This type of methods improvement is normally associated with the
engineering function.
Little Methods are the ways the operator handles work, the way she controls the
machine while sewing, the way she disposes, etc. This is everyone's responsibility and
especially the supervisor's responsibility.
Both big methods and little methods are important. In some cases new machinery can
double the previous output of units, but on the other hand, the operator's handling and
positioning of work is gauged to represent about 80 percent of most sewing operations.
So what are called little methods are actually a kg part of the job cycle.
In summary, both methods are important and both must be constantly attended to In
order to insure maximum productivity from each job.
6.6.1 BIG METHODS
A great amount of detail is not necessary here, but it will be beneficial to mention some
of the trends in sewing equipment and methods.
1. Automatic Machines
Buttonholers
Buttonsewers
Pocket Setters (Shirts)
Contour Seamers
Profile Stitching (Cuffs, Collars)
Automatic Hemming
Label Sewers
These machines require less skilled operators as the machines do the most difficult part

and the person becomes a machine loader.
2. Loading Devices
On some sewing operations it is now possible to use devices that can pick up a single
ply of material from a stack and load in into a machine (such as a label sewer). These
are mostly applicable on operations using virgin bundles (fresh from cutting).
3. Stacking Devices
There are many types of automatic stackers now in use (both commercial and shop
made) that can clear sewn work from the machine and stack neatly for the next
operation.
4. Faster Machines
Machines that run efficiently at much greater speeds than before.
5. Folders
Folders that remove the need for the operator to manually fold.
These can be hinged to swing in and out when needed.
6. Thread Cutters
Chain cutters, undertrimmers, choppers, vacuum cutters, etc.
7. Work Aids
Bins and chutes that carry work away from machine, shelves and trays for positioning of
work.
8. Needle Positioners
Eliminate need to operate hand wheel. Can stop up or down.
9. Construction changes in Garment
Eliminate operations, simplify operations, etc.
10. Combine separate operations into one
Reduce extra handling and bundle time

examples: Set and close collars on shirts, tack on and tack down loops on pants.
These are all examples of Big Methods improvements and will normally result in quota
changes on the Jobs affected.
6.6.2 LITTLE METHODS
Little methods can be defined as the things the operator does after the big method has
been established. This means the way she handles her work (the pick up, positioning,
repositioning while sewing, and disposal) and the way she controls her machine while
sewing (the speed she uses, the number of stops, etc.).
Little methods can be broken down into several areas:
1. The Basics
Correct table height
Correct chair height
Operator's posture at machine
Both feet on treadle
2. The Principles of Motion Economy
There are a series of formal principles relating to the most economical ways to perform
various motions of the human body. Here is a condensed version that is applicable to
sewing jobs:
Motions should be simultaneous
Motions should be symmetrical
Motions should be natural
Motions should be rhythmical
Motions should be habitual
3. Specifics of Sewing Jobs
Some of the more common things to specifically look for in sewing operations and
operators are:
Things to Change
Operator idle during machine time on automatic sewing operation
Operator unconsciously pit pats garment when disposing
Operator unconsciously inspects each garment after sewing

Operator stops while sewing more than absolutely essential
Operator rides knee lift pedal
Operator picks up, disposes, and picks up again
Operator regrasps or shifts from hand to hand
Operator straightens out material that won't be sewn
Things to Encourage
Operator locates parts as close as possible to needle
Operator folds anything that needs folding while moving to machine
Operator uses simultaneous motions
These little methods may not affect the job quotas but they are the type of things that
can make or break an operator in trying to reach quota.
6.6.3 BENEFITS OF METHODS IMPROVEMENT
There are some very tangible benefits to be realised from methods improvements: Both
big and little
Piece rate Savings - Big Methods
Operator Earnings - Little Methods
Production Increases - Big and Little Methods
Reduce Operator Fatigue - Big and Little Methods

7. TIME AND MOTION ANALYSIS
7.1 Technopak Time Study Procedure
Outline Steps
Observe job and analyse to determine the elements
define the ‘breakpoints’
record the elements
Rate each element to compare with the accepted Standard
try to rate every cycle
Use the stopwatch to time each element
select the elements to enable you to do this
This gives the ‘Raw element time’
Average the selected element times
This gives the ‘Average element time’
Multiply the average element time by the rating
This gives the ‘Basic time’ for the element
Add the basic times for all of the elements
Make sure the frequencies of the different elements are accounted for
In particular ‘bundle handling’ will apply once per bundle
This gives the ‘Basic time’ for the operation
Add allowances
Personal and Fatigue and Machine delay
This gives the ‘Standard time’ for the operation

7.2 Elements & break points
Definition: Elements are the small components into which an operation is
divided for time study purposes. They are selected for convenience of
observation, measurement and analysis.
• A break point marks the end of one element and the beginning of the next.
• The total of all the elements in an operation represents the operation cycle. The
cycle time is the time from one point on one garment to the same point on the next
garment.
• Operation are divided into elements for the following reasons:
1. It permits comparison of the same piece of work in different cycles of the
operation.
2. Operators may work at different speeds at different parts of the work cycle.
Division into elements enables these to be graded accordingly. This point is
particularly significant where some of the elements are wholly machine
controlled, while in others the operator is the controlling factor.
3. Standard elements, occurring on more than one job, can be identified and used
to build up a time for another job.
• Elements should be:
1. Clearly & fully described on the study sheet (except where they are widely
recognised). The break point should be defined if there is any risk of doubt.
2. Select break points so that they can be easily recognised – look for distinctive
motion and listen for distinctive sounds.
3. Select with a clear distinction between machine & manual work.
4. Not too short to make timing difficult, not too long to permit operator’s rating to
vary, and your attention to wander!

7.3 Notes on time study
• Be cordial and polite, but do not talk unnecessarily to the operator.
• Do not stand in front of the operator. Stand in a less discomforting position, such as
off to the side or in the back.
• Never sit down during a time study!
• Always calculate the time study results immediately after the date gathering.
• Controversy over rating arises from a misunderstanding of what is being rated. An
operator’s output can vary only if:
1. She varies her pace of work.
2. Varies her method. Method includes the motion pattern, no. of motions and inter-
motional delays.
• When studying, the observer notes the speed at which the operator performs, and
compares this mentally with the concept of the standard pace at which an operator
would work if motivated to apply herself and is free from fatigue (100% operator).
The engineer should:
1. Have a mental concept of the 100% operator.
2. Recognise deviation from the 100% pace and be able to put a relative value onto
it.
• Do not confuse smooth, fluid motion with slow motion. Don’t mistake rhythmic
intensity for fast productive motion.
• Machine paced operations or elements should be graded 105% to 115%, depending
on the effectiveness of the operator in utilising the machine cycle to do their job
properly.
• Before starting a study the engineer must ensure that he understands the correct
motion for the operation, and then checks that the operator is using them. The study
should not be taken if the motion pattern is incorrect unless the engineer is prepared
to compensate for the incorrect motion in his elemental rating or else assures
himself/herself that the discrepancy is insignificant.
• Have the quality supervisor or in-line sampler check the bundle. This ensures that
the time standard is not established on an unsatisfactory quality standard.

• Non-representative element times are circled. They may arise because:
1. Inclusion of work not identified by the element (such as changing bobbin)
2. Faulty operation of some sort.
3. Missing an element time.
• Allowances are added to the 100% time determined by the time study to give a
Standard allowed time which will permit the average operator to earn a satisfactory
wage, provided there is no abnormal delays and she applies herself to her work.
• Machine delay includes the following:
° Thread changes
° Bobbin changes (on lockstitch)
° Cleaning & oiling machine
° Thread breaks caused by operator, machine & thread
° Needle breaks
° Minor adjustments or changes in folders and attachments.
° First 15 minutes of machine delay
The machine delay factor is applied to the total cycle time. This has the effect of
giving a delay allowance on the manipulative elements within a machine cycle such
as “pick up garment”. On the average this does not present a problem since the
percentage has been developed from actual experience.
• Personal & fatigue allowance covers:
º Break periods
º Personal needs such as water, rest rooms etc.
º Minor conversations
º Factors for loss of pace due to getting tired.
7.4 Rating
The concept of ‘Rating’ (known in the US as ‘grading’) is fundamental in time study.
The ability to rate effectively distinguishes a qualified time study practitioner from a
novice.
Definitions:
‘Rating’ is the process used by the industrial engineer to:
compare the actual performance of the operator with his/her
mental concept of normal performance.

‘The rating’ is the numerical value used to denote the rate of
working.
In order to rate there must be a defined level of performance to compare with, an
‘average’ level.
Time study professionals apply the concept of a ‘Standard Operator’
Definitions:
A ‘Standard Operator’ is
Fully trained and motivated to perform a defined task (having a
defined method) and is, by definition average in terms of his or
her work-pace.
‘Standard Performance’ is
achieved by a standard operator, as long as working conditions
are correct.

8. PERFORMANCE DEVELOPMENT
First The Method
Then Quality
Only then Timings
In a sewing factory, there is always a need to develop the skills and the stamina of the
operators. There is a logical way in which this can be done. We develop skills first and
then stamina, but the two cannot be separated.
We can consider skill to be sound & correct methods. Once we have the method
correct, we can start an effective follow-up.
1. Methods* Review methods used and ensure correct motion pattern is in use.
2. Capacity Study
(or single cycle
check)
Is there a difference between potential performance (capacity) and actual
performance (achieved).The gap is called is called a Capacity Gap.
3. Diagnostic
bundle study (or
Production Study)
What is the reason for the capacity gap?
• Bundle handling?
• Machine problems?
• Cutting quality?
• Repairs (sewing quality)?
• Personal time?
• Others
4. Bundle by bundle
follow-up (or hourly
checks)
Is there a stamina problem?
Can we develop performance gradually day by day?

* For information on Performance Improvement through Methods, please refer to the
‘Methods Study’ Chapter
8.1 Capacity Study
8.1.1 What is a Capacity Study?
When we make a capacity study on an operator, we are measuring the performance she
should attain if she continues to work at the same pace and use the same method as
observed during the study. This means that at the end of the study we can say That
operator has the capacity to be a 120 percent performer" or whatever performance level
the study indicates.
What exactly do we mean by capacity? Well, it means the same as capability. It means
that the operator is capable of achieving the performance measured by the study.
Can any of you think of reasons why it would be valuable to know what performance
levels your operators were capable of achieving? Here are some reasons why most
supervisors find it useful to know the production capabilities of their operators:
1. Check Quotas
It is a fairly common occurrence for an operator to complain to her supervisor. I can't
make the quota on this Job. It's too high" When a new quota is set, the supervisor may
have a group of operators making this complaint.
There is often quite a difference between what an operator says she can do and what
she can actually do. This is especially true when new quotas are involved. A capacity
check can measure what performance the operator is capable of achieving and this can
be compared to the quota to test its fairness
The supervisor can then answer the operator's complaint based on facts. Can you see
how this would be helpful to a supervisor?
2. Motivate Operators
One of the main duties of a supervisor is to motivate her operators to perform at the
highest level possible. In many cases, however, operators perform at less than their
capabilities simply because they do not realise what their full capabilities are or do not
realise what it would mean to them to perform at this level.
It is not at all unusual in making capacity studies to discover habitual 90 percent o 95

percent operators having capacities of 110 percent to 115 percent. Why then are they
not performing at this level if they have the capability?
The word “Habitual" may be part of the answer. Some operators get into the habit of
being 90 percent performers. Once it becomes a habit, the operator tends to think that
90 percent is all she can do.
Generally speaking, people will do what they think they can do, but usually what they
think they can do is less than what is actually achievable. A good example of this is the
“Four minute mile".
Until 1954, no human had ever run a mile in less than four minutes. For years people
talked about a four minute mile and many tried but failed and it was just about concluded
that there was a limit to a human's capacity that prevented him from running that fast.
Then in 1954, a medical student in England ran a mile in three minutes and 59 seconds
to set a new world's record and become the first man to break the four minute barrier.
Several weeks later, an Australian ran a mile in three minutes and 58 seconds. Then a
German broke four minutes, and then two Hungarians and finally an American.
Once it had been done, four minutes was no longer considered difficult to achieve and
today running a mile in four minutes is not considered a great accomplishment.
A capacity study is a means of showing an operator that she is capable of more than she
realises. It shows her with facts.
Many supervisors have found capacity studies useful in motivating their operators to
higher performance.
3. Measure Section Production Capability
By measuring individual operator capacities, supervisors can determine the overall
capacity of their sections. The section is simply the sum of the individuals.
This is useful to a supervisor in setting production and performance goals for her
section. It can give the supervisor and her operators common goals to work toward
These things are going to occur regardless of the operator's ability therefore, they are
not considered to be a measure of how she is able to perform her job. When this type
delay does occur, it will cause the operator to take longer on that particular cycle than
she normally does. In making a capacity study, we would circle such a cycle when it
occurs and not use it to calculate our average cycle.

8.1.2 How to make a Capacity Study?
• The capacity study is a 10-cycle study to estimate an operator’s production ability. If
the actual production and capacity are different, then follow up studies should be
made.
• During the capacity study, the operator’s average time per cycle to sew her operation
is determined. We then assume the operator works at this pace all day and takes the
full amount of lost time (machine delay, personal and fatigue time) provided for in the
target. We call the time left, after lost time has been deducted, the available sewing
minutes. These are divided by the average time per piece to estimate production.
• Operators benefit from capacity studies only if you spot wasted motions and make
suggestions and corrections. Results of every capacity study should be reviewed
with the operator.
Allowances:
• Allowances are added to the 100% time determined by a time study to give a
Standard Time which will provide the average operator to earn a satisfactory wage,
provided there is no abnormal incidence of delays and she applies herself to her
work. These are also used while estimating an operator’s capacity. Three categories
are recognised: -
1. Machine delay
2. Personal and fatigue
3. Incentive
• Machine delay
Delays due to machine stoppage including thread changes, bobbin changes,
cleaning and oiling of machine, first 15 minutes of machine delay, thread breaks,
needle breaks, minor adjustments or changes in folders, attachments, minor delays
caused by attachment etc.
The machine delay factor is applied to the total of cyclic elements when the work is
largely machining, although not applied to wholly manipulative work such as clipping
or turning parts. This has the effect of giving a delay allowance on the manipulative
elements within a machine cycle such as ‘pick up garment’. On the average, this
does not present any problem since the percentages have been worked out from
experience. However, a job with an unusually high or low percentage of pure work in

the cycle would merit a discretionary adjustment to the factor, and the engineer is
expected to be alert for these.
• Personal and fatigue
Some aspects of normal required personal time can be quantified, but fatigue itself
cannot be measured. It is also impossible to separate personal and fatigue time
because of their inter-relation with one another. This allowance came into being
through guesswork and trial based on general use. History and experience have
proven these allowances to be reasonably correct for a great many varying
situations. Personal and fatigue allowance covers break periods, personal needs
such as water, rest rooms, minor conversations etc.
It should be noted that the machine delay factor is applied to 100% time, and the
personal and fatigue time (with the incentive factor added) is applied to this to give
the SAM.
General comments:
1. Use of your time:
• Follow-up is not simple clocking of cycles. This does nobody any good.
• Follow-up time is valuable. While timing a 2.0 SM operation use the time
between the breakpoints to:
Look closely at the method
Encourage the operator
Time the elements of the job
2. How to get effective studies
• Capacity studies record single cycles without
Bundle handling
Thread breaks
Bobbin & colour changes
Interruption
• When you conduct a study on a ‘long’ cycle operation (say more than one basic
minute), you can lose a complete cycle, because of one thread break.
• You can ‘save’ and use much of this time if you have broken the job to suitable
elements, then thread breaks would affect only one of the elements. You would
still have the remaining cycles which can be used.

3. Other follow-up tools
In any situations requiring follow-up support you will need to identify and choose the best
approach. The tools described for follow up (capacity study, diagnostic and follow-up
study) are not the only ones you can use. Be creative in your follow-up. E.g., use graphs
to plot cycle times and actual performance against target. Record the times for the
particular elements of a job – plot them to show improvements; record single cycle one
at a time and plot them; use visual aids to the full, and always explain the results to the
operator.

Annexure 1: Time Study
Company: Dept.: Operation Op. No. Study By :
Product Machine Operator Overall Rating Sheet _____
Of _____
Material Attachments & fittings SPI Cycles
Observed
Seam Length Date
Elements
R
E
A
D
I
N
G
S
Rea
d
Act.
Tim
e
Rati
ng
Rea
d
Act.
Tim
e
Rati
ng
Rea
d
Act.
Tim
e
Rati
ng
Rea
d
Act.
Tim
e
Rati
ng
Rea
d
Act.
Tim
e
Rati
ng
Rea
d
Act.
Tim
e
Rati
ng
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
Tot
al
No.
of
val
ues
ove
rall
rati
ng
ave
rag
val
ue
Element
Nos
Basi
c
min
s
Oc
cs.
per
Basi
c
min
%
MD
Adj
basic
%
RA
Calc
SM
per
%
poli
cy
Installed
SM per
gmt
uni
t
Times Prod.
per
occ.
G
mt
per
gmt
min
per
gmt
Gmt All
ow
mi
ns
hrs

Operation: Operator: Trainer: Date:
From To for Bundle Cum. for Bundle Cum. for Bundle Cum.
a b c = b - a d = c cum. e f = e cum. g = e : c h = f : d
1
2
3
4
5
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25
Comment:
Notes
Lost Times
Personal Machine Others
Time Time used Standard Time Efficiency
Bundle Pieces
Annexure 2: Bundle by Bumdle Follow

Bundle Diagnosis Sheet
Operator : Date :
Operation : Time :
Total SAM BM Mc. Delay %
Bundle Size BHT PF %
BHT Single Cycle Elements MD PF,Misc Comments
1 2 3 4 5 6
Tgt/pc
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
Average
Total Tgt.
% Achvd
Prepared by:
Remarks/Conclusion:
Annexure 3: Bundle Diagnosis

skirt STYLE#1
Parameters Date of last revision: 20/09/06 Sew
Last revised by: SS Minutes per Day 480.00 Total SAMs 30.33
Output (pieces per day) 760.00 Est AMs 40.44
Line Eff 71.68% DL 67.00 Pieces per M/c 12.26
Target Operator Efficiency 0.75 Operators - Sewing 62.00
No. of Workplaces 68.00 Helpers - Sewing 5.00
S. OPERATION SAM M/C ACT. MACHINE M/C ATTCH. NO. OF D.L. NO. OF NOTE
NO. Y/N TIME TYPE / CLASS FOLDERS/GUIDES OPER. M/Cs Target piece req./ oper
CALC ALLOC REQD
PREPARATORY
Bow loop joining 0.25 Y 0.33 0.53 1.00 1.00
1 Bow Loop making 0.13 Y 0.17 SNLS 0.27 0.00 0.00
1 Bow loop other side stitch 0.13 Y 0.17 0.27 0.00 0.00
Bow making 0.50 N 0.67 Table 1.06 1.00 0.00
5 Pintuck making 2.50 Y 3.33 SNLS 5.28 5.00 5.00
Pintuck iron 0.38 N 0.51 Table 0.80 1.00 0.00
pintuck panel marking 0.37 N 0.49 Table 0.78 1.00 0.00
pintuck panel cutting 0.70 N 0.93 Table 1.48 2.00 0.00
pintuck panel stay stitch 0.40 Y 0.53 SNLS 0.84 1.00 1.00
1 Ruffle join 0.14 Y 0.19 5-TH O/L 0.30 0.00 0.00
2 Ruffle baby overlock 1.10 Y 1.47 5-TH O/L 2.32 2.00 2.00
1 Ruffle gather 0.58 Y 0.77 SNLS 1.23 1.00 1.00
Lining Zipper side Krook cut and turn 0.54 Y 0.72 SNLS 1.14 1.00 1.00
Lining left and right side over lock 0.43 Y 0.57 5-TH O/L 0.91 1.00 1.00
Lining zipper portion serging (over lock) 0.27 Y 0.36 3 T O/lock 0.57 1.00 1.00
Zipper Facing bottom run stitch 0.11 Y 0.15 SNLS 0.23 0.00 0.00
Wasit band run stitch 0.24 Y 0.32 SNLS 0.51 1.00 1.00
1st panels (pintuck and back )overlock on right side 0.29 Y 0.39 5-TH O/L 0.61 1.00 1.00
2nd panels right side overlock join (Front and back) 0.29 Y 0.39 5-TH O/L 0.61 1.00 1.00
2nd panel gather 0.42 Y 0.56 SNLS 0.89 1.00 1.00
Pintuck panel and 2 nd panel attaching 0.74 Y 0.99 SNLS 1.56 2.00 2.00
1 st seam overlock 0.15 Y 0.20 3 T O/lock 0.32 0.00 0.00
Shell left side join 0.61 Y 0.81 SNLS 1.29 1.00 1.00
Shell zipper side serging (overlock) 0.61 Y 0.81 3 T O/lock 1.29 1.00 1.00
Ruffle attach on skirt 1.44 Y 1.92 SNLS 3.04 3.00 3.00
Zipper attach on shell (one side) 0.50 Y 0.67 SNLS 1.06 1.00 1.00
Zipper attach (Pointed / placket making) on other side 0.85 Y 1.13 SNLS 1.79 2.00 2.00
Facing attach on Zipper shell assembly 0.47 Y 0.63 SNLS 0.99 1.00 1.00
3rd panel shell right and left side seam join 0.31 Y 0.41 5-TH O/L 0.65 1.00 1.00
3rd panel gather 0.71 Y 0.95 SNLS 1.51 2.00 2.00
3rd gathered panel attach to second panel 0.54 Y 0.72 SNLS 1.14 1.00 1.00
3 rd Gather panel attach to second panels 1.25 Y 1.67 SNLS 2.64 2.00 2.00
2 nd Seam Overlock 0.31 Y 0.42 3TH O/L 0.66 1.00 1.00
Second seam edge stitch 1.09 Y 1.45 SNLS 2.30 2.00 2.00
3rd panel hemming 0.50 Y 0.67 SNLS 1.06 1.00 1.00
Lining - shell Zipper Facing attach (one side) 0.46 Y 0.61 SNLS 0.97 1.00 1.00
Lining - shell Zipper Facing attach (other side) 0.40 Y 0.53 SNLS 0.84 1.00 1.00
Lining opening lock 0.48 Y 0.64 SNLS 1.01 1.00 1.00
Zipper edge stitch 0.39 Y 0.52 SNLS 0.82 1.00 1.00
Lining body ready stitch 0.51 Y 0.68 SNLS 1.08 1.00 1.00
Main and size label attach 0.34 Y 0.45 SNLS 0.72 1.00 1.00
Wash care attach 0.36 Y 0.48 SNLS 0.76 1.00 1.00
Belt attach 0.75 Y 1.00 SNLS 1.58 2.00 2.00
elastic extensoin (pointed) stitch 0.37 Y 0.49 SNLS 0.78 1.00 1.00
Belt Finishing attach 1.10 Y 1.47 SNLS 2.32 2.00 2.00
Belt Kinnari 0.38 Y 0.50 SNLS 0.80 1.00 1.00
Waist band Elastic Kruke 0.64 Y 0.85 SNLS 1.35 2.00 2.00
Elastic attach 0.69 Y 0.92 SNLS 1.46 2.00 2.00
Elastic Pointed stitch 0.37 Y 0.49 SNLS 0.78 1.00 1.00
Scallop width cutting Y 0.00 SNLS with edge cutter 0.00 0.00 0.00
lace join @ left & right side 0.45 Y 0.60 5-TH O/L 0.95 1.00 1.00
Bottom Lace attach 1.10 Y 1.47 SNLS 2.32 2.00 2.00
Bottom Lace seam overlock 0.38 Y 0.50 5-TH O/L 0.80 1.00 1.00
Scallop - Bottom panel edge stitch 0.78 Y 1.04 SNLS 1.65 2.00 2.00
Bow attach 0.53 Y 0.71 SNLS 1.12 1.00 1.00
30.33 40.44 67.00 62.00
S. Machine Requirement M/Cs
No. 1 line
1 SNLS w/ UBT 0.00
2 SNLS with edge cutter 0.00
3 DNLS 0.00
4 DNLS w/ split bar 0.00
5 3 T O/lock 2.00
6 5-TH O/L 8.00
7 Collar trim, turn & block 0.00
8 Automatic cuff block m/c 0.00
9 Buttonhole m/c 0.00
10 Button stitching m/c 0.00
11 Snapping m/c--Female 0.00
12 Snapping m/c--male 0.00
13 Bar tack M/C 0.00
14 Table 4.00
15 Iron 0.00
OPERATION BULLETIN FOR skirt
Annexure 4: Operation Bulletin

Operation Pocket-
Bellow strip
stitch (2)
Machine DNLS W/
split bar
Needle
Hand Used Freq
B/H
BH
BH
BH
LH
BH
RH
BH
Operation Diagram Operation Layout
1. Pull bellow from dispensor and place under the presser foot while folding
2. Pick the Pocket from front pocket holder and place under the presser foot over bellow strip while holding the
trimmer in the other hand
Bundle Handling after Operation
1.Report the output on the gum sheet
3. Tie and Dispose the bundle
4. Dispose in the left pocket holder with face down so that will keep the order when bundle is inverted
5. Repeat 1,2,3 &4 till all the pieces of one bundle is finished
Bundle Handling before Operation
1.Open the bundle of pocket on front pocket holder
Operation Method
3. Tack initailly and then stitch bellow along pocket shape till end 3 bursts and tack in the end and cut the strip
Previous Operation:
Pocket hemming/ pressing
of bellow
Sequence of Parts
Received: Ascending
Following Operation:
Attach bellow pocket to body
Send: Ascending
SAM 0.75 Operation No. : 4 SPI
Work Aids : Pocket Holder for pickup /Bellow Strip
dispensor/ Left Pocket holder for disposal
Attachments P727 2 Needle Presser foot with rigid guild
METHOD DOCUMENT
Style #1 Product : Blouse Date Approved by: SS
Annexure 5: Method Document

Trainer:Date:Trainer:Date:
Operator:Line/Section:Operator:Line/Section:
Operation(s):Day_________of__________Operation(s):Day_________of__________
CapacityStudy123QualityChecksCapacityStudy123QualityChecks
1DefectSelfChecker1DefectSelfChecker
2SPI2SPI
3Appearance3Appearance
4Damage4Damage
5Styling5Styling
66
77
88
99
1010
Total(NormalCyles)TotalTotal(NormalCyles)Total
Avg(NormalCycles)%DefectsAvg(NormalCycles)%Defects
BasicMin.BasicMin.
Capacity%(BM/Avg)Capacity%(BM/Avg)
CalcAMsCalcAMs
Capacity(inpcs/hr)Capacity(inpcs/hr)
StaminaRunsStaminaRuns
DurationSAMCapacity%TargetTimeUnitsPerf%DurationSAMCapacity%TargetTimeUnitsPerf%
(mins)(oncapacity)StartFinishTotalmin.CompletedAchieved(mins)(oncapacity)StartFinishTotalmin.CompletedAchieved
11
22
33
44
55
66
77
88
DailySummaryTotalClockTime:Off.Stdmins:DailySummaryTotalClockTime:Off.Stdmins:
OperationSAMUnitsSAMsPrd.Perf.%Eff.%OperationSAMUnitsSAMsPrd.Perf.%Eff.%
11
22
33
Annexure6:CapacityStudy

Guidelines industrial engineering

Guidelines industrial engineering

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