Vogue uk october_2016

OCTOBER 2016
insideVOGUE
WHAT TO
BUY NOW
Page 131
VictoriaBeckhamwears
double-facedwool/cashmerecoat,
£850,Boss.Getthelook:make-up
byVictoriaBeckhamEstéeLauder.
Eyes:EyeInkinBlackMyrrh;Eye
KajalinBlackSafron/Vanille.
Skin:BronzerinJavaSun.Lips:
LipstickinBrazilianNude.Hairby
JohnFrieda:LuxuriousVolume
BlowDryLotion;FrizzEaseMoisture
BarrierFlexible-HoldHairspray.
Hair:OrlandoPita.Make-up:
PetrosPetrohilos.Nails:ToniJadeBill.
Setdesign:AndreaStanley.Location:
TheCarlylehotel,NewYork.
Production:GeorginaKorenand
LizReidforRedHookLabs.
Digitalartwork:Alexandra
RubinsteinatWildhackPictures.
Fashioneditor:KatePhelan.
Photographer:LachlanBailey
Regulars
51 EDITOR’S LETTER
60 VOGUE NOTICES
Behind the scenes of the issue
70 VOGUE.CO.UK
The best of our website
217 CHECKLIST
New season, new colours
319 STOCKISTS
BACK PAGE MIND’S EYE
Luke Edward Hall loves
Jean Cocteau and slippers by
Stubbs & Wootton
In Vogue
95 WHAT’S NEW
The people, places, ideas and trends
to watch now
109 MADE TO ORDER
Style.com has been relaunched – and
it’s set to revolutionise the way we shop
117 COVERSTORY
COVERED IN GLORY
Forget the evening coat, it’s a
statement coat we want now, for day
and night, says Sarah Harris
125CONTINENTAL DRIFT
Designers are hailing from far beyond
the fashion hubs, ﬁnds Carolyn Asome
COVER LOOK Vogue Shops
131 WHAT TO BUY NOW
Winter ﬂorals and city layers
View
153 COVERSTORY
AUTUMN ALMANAC
Whether you’re staying in or
going out, the season starts here,
says Hayley Maitland
163 THE GENERATION GAME
Remind you of anyone?
Actress Mamie Gummer talks
to Fiona Golfar
166 TALENT CONTEST 2016
Introducing the winner of Vogue’s
annual competition for young writers
Spy
173 COVERSTORY
THE SHOES TO BUY NOW
From lug soles to cone heels, put your
best foot forward this autumn; plus,
what boots to wear with what
181 COVERSTORY
OFF DUTY, ON POINT
Chunky knits, country cords and slip
dresses: Vogue lives for the weekend
195 OPAL OFFICE
It’s the opal’s time to shine
196 BLUE IN THE FACE
With watches, colour trumps
detail this season >42
“Stella McCartney’s feather-free
padded coat makes the perfect
eco accompaniment to
rambling-ready boots”
PUFF PIECE, PAGE 224
33

152 –153 SLOANE STREET - LONDON SWIX 9BX
chloe.com
©2016CHLOE.ALLRIGHTSRESERVED.

Features
248 COVERSTORY“WEAR
SUNGLASSESALOT.EVENINSIDE…”
Victoria Beckham has some sage
advice for her 18-year-old self.
Photographs by Lachlan Bailey
258 BEAUTY UNRAVELLED
What’s beautiful now? You’ll
be surprised, says Nicola
Moulton. Photographs by
Patrick Demarchelier
266 COVERSTORY
THE COLLECTOR
Hamish Bowles, American
Vogue’s editor-at-large, has been
amassing couture since he was
six. Fiona Golfar delights in
his collection
274 THE LONG WAY HOME
Few groups spark such heated
debate, but migrants have shaped
our nation, argues Sophie Dahl
278 INTRICATE LIVES
Two very different worlds collide
on artist Njideka Akunyili Crosby’s
canvases. By Tim Walker.
Photographs by Peter Ash Lee
284 ART AND SOLE
Cobbling is in danger of becoming a
lost skill. Violet Henderson meets the
craftsmen who rescue treasured heels
288 PHOTOGRAPHERS’ GALLERY
Vogue image-makers on the pictures
that changed their lives – both
personally and professionally.
By Rachel Lucas-Craig
BEAUTY
PLAYGROUND
Page 313
INTRICATE
LIVES
Page 278
Fashion
224 PUFF PIECE
Designers have been enjoying some
downtime this season. Photographs
by Craig McDean
236 I SHOULD COCO
Coco Chanel’s style edicts are as
relevant now as they were then.
Photographs by Josh Olins
Beauty
299 ON THE PULSE
With so many new scents to choose
from, Nicola Moulton selects the best.
Plus, Victoria Beckham’s new
make-up collection
304 TRUE GRIT
Ditch the Pilates and head to the
boxing ring, says Julia Hobbs
306 BEAUTY BITES
The ﬁner points of micro-channelling.
Plus, it’s all in the application
313 BEAUTY PLAYGROUND
Make-up goes back to school
315 SCREEN SAVERS
Sunscreen is the new must-do, advises
Nicola Moulton – even in winter
“Chanel’s cascading lace gown enters
a league of its own when teamed with
a body-skimming ice-hockey jersey”
I SHOULD COCO, PAGE 236
SUBSCRIBE TO Turntopage140for our fantastic subscription offer,plusfreegift
203 COVERSTORY
REPORT THE WOMEN
OF WASHINGTON
Meet the new power-brokers of
American politics. By Sabrina Siddiqui
209 FOCUS WHAT LIES BENEATH
Richard Godwin goes underground
214 FASHION TRAVEL
Jamaica – our Caribbean crush
42
insideVOGUE

AllergyTested.100% Fragrance Free.
New
Life’s a
balancing act.
Give yourself one perfect
moment, every day, where
everything balances out.
Slip on a silk-enriched makeup.
Feel naked, yet covered to
perfection. Control oil, yet
hydrate where needed. Protect
with SPF. You’ve got this.
New. Superbalanced™
Silk
Makeup SPF 15. In 20 shades.
Find your shade now with
your free*
10-day foundation
sample*
and primer trial**
.
Find out more at clinique.co.uk
©CliniqueLaboratories,LLC*7mlsample,whilestockslast.**Superprimer™inUniversal.

the new N°5
CHANEL.COM # YOU KNOWME ANDYOU DONT

LACHLANBAILEY;PATRICKDEMARCHELIER;JASONLLOYD-EVANS;MITCHELLSAMS
51
victoria Beckham is one of
the most publicised women
of our age. So what to do
when she is going to be Vogue’s cover
personality for the fourth time? How
to interview her and learn anything
new? Well, for this month’s issue,
deputy editor Emily Sheffield had
the idea of asking Victoria to write
a letter to her younger self. It is often
the case that people are generous with
their knowledge when it comes to
sharing it with a new generation, and
on page 248, Victoria is delightfully
open about the mistakes she feels she
has made and the advice she hands on
– all with her trademark humour and
the self-deprecation that is such a
likeable part of her personality when
you meet her.
“Beauty Unravelled” (page 258) is
not a conventional beauty story.
But then what is conventional
beauty now? The internationally
admired hairstylist Guido
Palau, whose creativity we
celebrate in this shoot by
Patrick Demarchelier, is
known to push the
boundaries in his work
for catwalk shows and
fashion shoots. Hair
is the raw material
for his art, and the
strange, compelling
styles he creates often
Above: Lachlan
Bailey photographs
Victoria Beckham
on page 248.
Below: the women
changing America’s
political landscape
(page 203)
challenge the notions of attraction.
Alongside him work make-up artists
who also like to question what we find
appealing – and arresting – although
on this shoot, Lisa Butler found
herself in the position of doing “no
make-up at all” in order to highlight
the contrast between the natural
features of the faces and the
intricate hair.These are not looks
that are likely to be seen in your
local supermarket any time
soon, but they are part of a
shift that is taking place in
how our society defines
beauty and a move away
from the cookie-cutter
model of the past.
As we head towards
November’s American
presidential election,
nobody could fail to be
aware of the similarities
between the situation there and
our own referendum back in June.
Recent years have shown politics to
be more unpredictable than ever
and the only certainty is that the
electorate has a growing desire to
find scapegoats and heroes.
Washington, DC is the
epicentre of the American
political world; on page 203,
Sabrina Siddiqui paints a
portrait of the lives of the
women who work in that
arena, whether in the back
room or in the foreground,
as the country moves to vote
on the possibility of the first
woman president of the
United States.
Spice of
LIFE
GIVENCHY
Hairstylist Guido Palau’s otherworldly
creations in “Beauty Unravelled”
(page 258) and on the catwalk, bottom

ALL ABOUT THIS MONTH’S ISSUE
CRAIGMcDEAN
THE MIND’S EYE
Peter Ash Lee (right) photographed
Njideka Akunyili Crosby at her Los
Angeles studio for “Intricate Lives”
on page 278, taking the artist’s
bright canvases as inspiration for
the shoot. “I was keen to make the
shots feel painterly, with Njideka
almost blending into her own
work.” Currently based in a former
pencil factory in Brooklyn, the
Seoul native credits his psychology
degree for his skill behind the
lens. “My job is about capturing
personalities – so it’s definitely
helpful being able to read people.”
FRESH FACE
Kiki Willems (above) joined fellow models Vittoria Ceretti,
Lily Olsen and Alexandra Elizabeth on set in Paris for “Beauty
Unravelled” (page 258).The leggy up-and-comer arrived fresh
from the Chanel catwalk, one of ﬁve she graced during couture
week. “Often girls can be pigeonholed into a certain aesthetic,
but Kiki can go from punk to ethereal at the drop of a hat –
no mean feat,” says Vogue bookings editor Rosie Vogel-Eades.
Keep an eye out for Kiki in Prada’s a/w ’16 campaign.
Editor-at-large Fiona Golfar
pored over Hamish Bowles’s
couture collection at Uovo
Fine Art Storage for “The
Collector” on page 266.
The climate-controlled facility
covers more than 280,000sq ft
– and contains priceless works
of art. Overseeing its
maximum-level security?
A director who fortiﬁed
battleships for the US Navy.
Capitol records
FALL GUY
Set designer Piers
Hanmer transformed
a Manhattan studio into
an autumnal landscape
for “Puff Piece” on
page 224. “The idea
was to create a sense
of bad weather,” he
explains. “To create
the backdrops, I had to
shoot landscapes from
a moving car and blow
them up to give a sense
of abstract chaos.”
In the run-up to the American election, the
Guardian US political reporter Sabrina Siddiqui
considers the future of women in Washington, DC
(page 203). Sabrina began covering the White
House at just 24 years old. “I used to pinch
myself each time I saw the president up close.”
Her career highlight to date? “Travelling on Air
Force One [pictured] with Barack Obama.”
60
VOGUEnotices
Into the
VAULTS

CONSIDER VOGUE.CO.UK
YOUR ONE-STOP DESTINATION
FOR THE SPRING/SUMMER
2017 SHOW SEASON, WHICH
KICKS OFF IN NEW YORK
ON SEPTEMBER 8 AND
CULMINATES IN PARIS ON
OCTOBER 5
SHOW TIME
VGet a 360-degree view
of the collections, with
close-up, backstage, front
row and full-length images
V Browse the Vogue edit
of the best street style from
New York to London,
Milan and Paris
Follow @BritishVogue
on Instagram for updates
from the editors, straight
from the front rows
VHead backstage to see the
beauty looks created by
the industry’s most famous
names, as we bring you the
hair and make-up trends that
will dominate next season
As she stars on her fourth British Vogue cover this month,
Victoria Beckham invited the Vogue Video team to go where no camera
crew has gone before – inside her handbag.Tune in as the designer
reveals the essentials that she can’t get through the day without.
Out of the bag
VOGUE VIDEO
TOM FORD
NAIL LACQUER IN
SCARLET CHINOIS,
£27, TOMFORD.COM
A SITE
TO BEHOLD
This September we unveil
a brand-new Vogue.co.uk.
Our full site makeover will make
all your favourite sections easier
to browse while you’re on the go
– whether it’s the daily news feed,
trend updates, shopping galleries
or our unbeatable beauty
coverage – on mobile or
on tablet.
V
JASONLLOYD-EVANS;MITCHELLSAMS;PAULBOWDEN;GETTY
GET AHEAD WITH WHAT’S HAPPENING ON VOGUE ONLINE
VOGUE.co.uk

Whatever your preferred social-media channel, be sure to get the latest news from Vogue first by following us on Instagram,
Facebook, Twitter, Tumblr, Google+ and Youtube. Just search for BRITISH VOGUE and MISS VOGUE and join the club.
Sign up to our daily
newsletter for an
instant update of the
day’s top headlines
and must-read
articles – all straight
to your inbox.
Top tips
on tap
NEWS
PRESENTING THE PAST
Get lost in the ultimate
Vogue library, our new magazine section
featuring a centenary of covers. Click into
individual issues to open a selection of
the articles featured within – from
interviews with cover stars, designers,
models and industry leaders to editors’
letters and trend reports
Tune in to our new-look video channel to catch
up with the latest Vogue ﬁlms – including What
on Earth Is Wellness?, in which Camille Rowe
(left) explores all things wellbeing. You can also
see Inside the Wardrobe, our series that delves
into the closets of everyone from Miranda Kerr
to Olivia Palermo, Caroline de Maigret to
Jenna Lyons (inset); the ﬁrst two series
of The Future of Fashion, in which
Alexa Chung acts as roving reporter to
investigate the industry now; and Vogue
Beauty School, lessons in how to master
make-up tricks and skincare secrets.
Inside story
VOGUE VIDEO
DON’T MISS
Our dedicated
Miss Vogue
channel is packed
with daily doses
of celebrity style
and news, trend
ideas and beauty
looks to try.
It’s the perfect
destination for a
fix of inspiration
before you hit
the shops. From
left: Kylie Jenner;
Lily-Rose Depp;
Alexa Chung;
Selena Gomez
DAVIDBAILEY;WILLIECHRISTIE;NICKKNIGHT;MARIOTESTINO;TYRONELEBON;GETTY;REXFEATURES
77
VOGUE.co.uk

ALEXANDRA SHULMAN
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
CREATIVE DIRECTOR JAIME PERLMAN
DEPUTY EDITOR EMILY SHEFFIELD MANAGING EDITOR FRANCES BENTLEY
FASHION DIRECTOR LUCINDA CHAMBERS
EXECUTIVE FASHION DIRECTOR SERENA HOOD
ACTING EXECUTIVE FASHION EDITOR LAURA INGHAM
SENIOR CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITORS KATE PHELAN, JANE HOW
FASHION EDITOR VERITY PARKER
FASHION BOOKINGS EDITOR ROSIE VOGEL-EADES
STYLE EDITOR NURA KHAN
ACTING SITTINGS EDITOR JULIA BRENARD
SENIOR FASHION ASSISTANT FLORENCE ARNOLD
FASHION ASSISTANTS BEATRIZ DE COSSIO, KATIE FRANKLIN
FASHION BOOKINGS ASSISTANT KATIE LOWE
FASHION COORDINATOR POM OGILVY
JEWELLERY EDITOR CAROL WOOLTON
MERCHANDISE EDITOR HELEN HIBBIRD
CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITORS
FRANCESCA BURNS, BAY GARNETT, KATE MOSS, CLARE RICHARDSON
FASHION FEATURES DIRECTOR SARAH HARRIS
FASHION NEWS EDITOR JULIA HOBBS FASHION FEATURES EDITOR ELLIE PITHERS
SHOPPING EDITOR NAOMI SMART
BEAUTY HEALTH DIRECTOR NICOLA MOULTON
DEPUTY BEAUTY HEALTH EDITOR LAUREN MURDOCH-SMITH
ACTING DEPUTY BEAUTY HEALTH EDITOR LOTTIE WINTER
FEATURES EDITOR SUSIE RUSHTON
ACTING FEATURES EDITOR NICOLE MOWBRAY
EDITOR-AT-LARGE FIONA GOLFAR
COMMISSIONING EDITOR VIOLET HENDERSON
ART EDITOR JANE HASSANALI
DESIGNER EILIDH WILLIAMSON
JUNIOR DESIGNER PHILIP JACKSON
PICTURE EDITOR MICHAEL TROW
ASSOCIATE PICTURE EDITOR CAI LUNN
SENIOR PICTURE RESEARCHER BROOKE MACE
ART COORDINATOR BEN EVANS
TABLET MOBILE PRODUCER LEE WALLWORK
CHIEF SUB-EDITOR CLARE MURRAY
DEPUTY CHIEF SUB-EDITOR HELEN BAIN
SENIOR SUB-EDITOR VICTORIA WILLAN
SUB-EDITORS STEPHEN PATIENCE, EMMA HUGHES
SPECIAL EVENTS EDITOR SACHA FORBES
PERSONAL ASSISTANT TO THE EDITOR CHARLOTTE PEARSON
EDITORIAL COORDINATOR ELIZABETH WHITE
PARIS COORDINATOR SIGRID LARRIVOIRE
VOGUE.CO.UK
EDITOR LUCY HUTCHINGS
ASSOCIATE DIGITAL DIRECTOR EMILY SHEFFIELD
CN DIGITAL HEAD OF PHOTO PICTURE EDITOR GABY COVE
NEWS EDITORS LAUREN MILLIGAN, SCARLETT CONLON
ACTING NEWS EDITOR KATIE BERRINGTON
BEAUTY EDITOR LISA NIVEN
ENGAGEMENT MANAGER RACHEL EDWARDS
DIGITAL EDITORIAL ASSISTANT NAOMI PIKE
ACTING JUNIOR ASSISTANT TAMISON O’CONNOR
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
LISA ARMSTRONG, CALGARY AVANSINO, LAURA BAILEY,
ALEXA CHUNG, CHRISTA D’SOUZA, SOPHIE DAHL, TANIA FARES, NIGELLA LAWSON,
ROBIN MUIR, CHARLOTTE SINCLAIR, PAUL SPIKE, NONA SUMMERS
EDITORIAL BUSINESS MANAGER CAMILLA FITZ-PATRICK
SYNDICATION ENQUIRIES EMAIL SYNDICATION@CONDENAST.CO.UK
DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATION RIGHTS HARRIET WILSON
Vogue is a member of the Independent Press Standards Organisation (which regulates the UK’s magazine and
newspaper industry). We abide by the Editors’ Code of Practice (www.ipso.co.uk/editors-code-of-practice) and
are committed to upholding the highest standards of journalism. If you think that we have not met those standards
and want to make a complaint please see our Editorial Complaints Policy on the Contact Us page of our website
or contact us at complaints@condenast.co.uk or by post to Complaints, Editorial Business Department, The
Condé Nast Publications Ltd, Vogue House, Hanover Square, London W1S 1JU. If we are unable to resolve your
complaint, or if you would like more information about IPSO or the Editors’ Code, contact IPSO on
0300 123 2220 or visit www.ipso.co.uk
Enter our new
home for original short films,
series and documentaries, and gain
exclusive access into the
glamorous world of Vogue
VOGUE.CO.UK/VOGUEVIDEO
D
ON’T MISS
••••••••
•••••••••
•••••••
ALEXA
CHUNG’S
FUTURE OF
FASHION
SERIES
ALASDAIRMcLELLAN

STEPHEN QUINN
PUBLISHING DIRECTOR
SENIOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR SOPHIE MARKWICK
ACTING SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER VICTORIA MORRIS
ACCOUNT MANAGER MATILDA McLEAN
DIGITAL ACCOUNT DIRECTOR CHARLOTTE HARLEY
BUSINESS MANAGER JESSICA FIRMSTON-WILLIAMS
PA TO THE PUBLISHING DIRECTOR DEVINA SANGHANI
ADVERTISING ASSISTANT HONOR PHEYSEY
FASHION ADVERTISEMENT DIRECTOR (EUROPE) SUSANNAH COE
ACTING SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER (EUROPE) CLARA SCANDELLA
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER US SHANNON TOLAR TCHKOTOUA
US ACCOUNT MANAGER KERYN HOWARTH
HEAD OF PARIS OFFICE HELENA KAWALEC
ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER (FRANCE) FLORENT GARLASCO
REGIONAL SALES DIRECTOR KAREN ALLGOOD
REGIONAL ACCOUNT DIRECTOR HEATHER MITCHELL
REGIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGER KRYSTINA GARNETT
ACTING EXECUTIVE RETAIL EDITOR JO HOLLEY
RETAIL PROMOTIONS EXECUTIVE CHARLOTTE SUTHERLAND-HAWES
DEPUTY PROMOTIONS DIRECTOR POLLY WARRICK
ACTING PROMOTIONS MANAGER JESS PURDUE
PROMOTIONS ART DIRECTOR DORIT POLLARD
PROMOTIONS ART DIRECTOR ABIGAIL VOLKS
ACTING PROJECT MANAGER MAJA HAVEMANN
CLASSIFIED DIRECTOR SHELAGH CROFTS CLASSIFIED ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER SARAH BARON
SENIOR CLASSIFIED SALES EXECUTIVES/TRAINERS SARAH HAWKINS, OLIVIA OSBORNE
ACTING SENIOR CLASSIFIED SALES EXECUTIVES/TRAINERS
HARRIET BUTLER, EMMA WILLEY, KATHERINE WEEKES
SENIOR CLASSIFIED SALES EXECUTIVES ZOE GAUNTLETT, JENNA COLLISON
CLASSIFIED SALES EXECUTIVE ALICE WINTERS
HEAD OF DIGITAL WIL HARRIS
DIGITAL STRATEGY DIRECTOR DOLLY JONES
DIRECTOR OF VIDEO CONTENT DANIELLE BENNISON-BROWN
MARKETING DIRECTOR JEAN FAULKNER
SENIOR RESEARCH MANAGER HEATHER BATTEN RESEARCH MANAGER THERESA DOMKE
DEPUTY MARKETING AND RESEARCH DIRECTOR GARY READ
ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING SUSIE BROWN
GROUP PROPERTY DIRECTOR FIONA FORSYTH
CONDE NAST INTERNATIONAL DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS NICKY EATON
DEPUTY PUBLICITY DIRECTOR HARRIET ROBERTSON
PUBLICITY MANAGER RICHARD PICKARD
CIRCULATION DIRECTOR RICHARD KINGERLEE
NEWSTRADE CIRCULATION MANAGER ELLIOTT SPAULDING
NEWSTRADE PROMOTIONS MANAGER ANNA PETTINGER
SUBSCRIPTIONS DIRECTOR PATRICK FOILLERET
DIGITAL MARKETING MANAGER SHEENA CHANDNANI
MARKETING PROMOTIONS MANAGER MICHELLE VELAN
CREATIVE DESIGN MANAGER ANTHEA DENNING
PRODUCTION DIRECTOR SARAH JENSON
COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION MANAGER XENIA DILNOT
SENIOR PRODUCTION CONTROLLER EMILY BENTLEY
SENIOR PRODUCTION COORDINATOR KARENINA DIBBLE
ACTING SENIOR PRODUCTION COORDINATOR SAPPHO BARKLA
COMMERCIAL SENIOR PRODUCTION CONTROLLER LOUISE LAWSON
COMMERCIAL AND PAPER PRODUCTION CONTROLLER MARTIN MACMILLAN
COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION COORDINATOR JESSICA BEEBY
FINANCE DIRECTOR PAMELA RAYNOR
FINANCIAL CONTROL DIRECTOR PENNY SCOTT-BAYFIELD
HR DIRECTOR HAZEL MCINTYRE
DEPUTY MANAGING DIRECTOR ALBERT READ
NICHOLAS COLERIDGE MANAGING DIRECTOR
PUBLISHED BY THE CONDE NAST PUBLICATIONS LTD,
VOGUE HOUSE, HANOVER SQUARE, LONDON W1S 1JU
(TEL: 020 7499 9080; FAX: 020 7493 1345).
DIRECTORS JONATHAN NEWHOUSE, NICHOLAS COLERIDGE, STEPHEN QUINN,
ANNIE HOLCROFT, PAMELA RAYNOR, JAMIE BILL, JEAN FAULKNER,
SHELAGH CROFTS, ALBERT READ, PATRICIA STEVENSON
JONATHAN NEWHOUSE CHAIRMAN AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE, CONDE NAST INTERNATIONAL
ADVERTISEMENT DIRECTOR
LUCY DELACHEROIS-DAY
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER
SALLIE BERKEREY
World-class fashion education
in the heart of central London
www.condenastcollege.co.uk
COURSES
Apply
now!

JASONLLOYD-EVANS;MITCHELLSAMS
THE PEOPLE, PLACES, IDEAS
AND TRENDS TO WATCH NOW
NEW
What’s
Edited by JULIA HOBBS
In camera
Forget Snapchat, this fashion
month the ultimate FOMO-
inducing app to show off
your front-row Dior seat/
penthouse suite at the
Plaza/backstage moment
with Bella Hadid is Cardboard
Camera – Google’s 360-
degree virtual-reality photo
app. The challenge now is to
pick an outfit that slays
from all angles…
Fashion’s love of so-bad-it’s-good geekiness
is dictating an unlikely new power colour:
step up Stabilo highlighter green, this
autumn’s scene-stealing shade.
Go GREEN
Above: as seen in Paris
Gilda
Ambrosio
and, left,
Miroslava
Duma
³
360˚
BALENCIAGA
SUEDE BAG, £875, AT
MYTHERESA.COM
ACNE STUDIOS
SUNGLASSES, £280
PANTONE 146 C
FRENCH SOLE LEATHER BALLET FLATS, £120
BALLY
WOOL-MIX
TOP, £750
VETEMENTS
COURREGES
BALMAIN
95

CARROLLFLETCHER;COURTESYGALERIEBUCHHOLZ/COLOGNE;PIXELATE.BIZ;GETTY;DANNYSANGRA;ISTOCK
FRIEZE
THINKING
this year’s Frieze London Art Fair is as much
about nostalgia as contemporary talent, with
a series of Nineties exhibitions restaged across
the Regent’s Park site. Go back in time with a
recreation of Turner Prize-winner Wolfgang Tillmans’s
debut show in a Cologne bookshop, or Richard
Billingham’s 1996 groundbreaking photo show
Ray’s a Laugh – a gritty depiction of his parents’ life
in a Midlands council flat caught on 35mm film.
As far as the best of Frieze’s 21st-century works go,
it’s immersive experiences rather than physical pieces
that are set to rule the scene. All eyes will be on
Berlin-based deaf artist Christine Sun Kim as she
takes over Frieze Live with her visual renderings
of sound, and performer Julie Verhoeven, whose
performance Toilet Attendant will, you guessed it,
be staged in one of the fair’s cloakrooms. Need a
break from the cultural maelstrom? Reserve a table
at the Petersham Nurseries pop-up to sample
Michelin-starred dishes in a plant-filled oasis. HM
From left: Sasha Melnychuk and
Joséphine de La Baume. Above:
La Nuit at the Hotel Grand Amour
Above: from Rustle Tustle, by Christine
Sun Kim. Right: a still from Whiskers
Between My Legs (2014), by Julie
Verhoeven. Below: Lutz and Alex Sitting in
the Trees (1992), by Wolfgang Tillmans
There’s much talk of Paris’s new-wave
fashion scene, but the real action happens
after dark to a techno soundtrack from feted
DJs Clara 3000 and Israfil. In November,
kings of the city’s nightlife André Saraiva and
Lionel Bensemoun (of Le Baron) will reunite
to launch La Nuit, a speakeasy in the former
garage of Hotel Grand Amour, set to become
the 24-hour hangout of the Grand Amour
crew – a gang of next-generation stylists,
models, musicians and artists, including
Joséphine de La Baume, Hala Moawad
and Sasha Melnychuk. Across town, at the
Grand Rivage, there’s Kaliante – a
no-holds-barred foam party thrown
by Bensemoun’s younger brother,
model Luka Isaac. Hotel Grand
Amour, 18 Rue de la Fidélité
Saint’s
day
Think Desert Island
Discs, exclusively
for creatives
– the Saints of
Somewhere
podcasts are
“a reaction to
algorithmic culture
that leads us in
ever decreasing
circles, when
there’s a whole
world of interesting
stuff out there,”
says 43-year-old
journalist and
author Kirsty
Robinson, who’s
behind the series.
Each episode,
Robinson hosts
a free-flowing
conversation with
remarkable people
on life, work
and inspirations
– guests so far
include an open-
water swimmer,
a futurologist
and a death-row
lawyer. Download
it now for that early
autumn escape.
PODCAST
Paris NIGHTS
BOSE
WIRELESS
HEADPHONES,
£290
97
inVOGUE

JEEPERS
CREEPERS
a26-year-old Central Saint
Martins graduate (and winner
of the L’Oréal Professionnel
Creative Award), John Alexander Skelton (whose
unisex designs feature in “I Should Coco”, on page 236)
champions a historical
take on tailoring.
Hailing from York, the
former politics student
tapped the Mass
Observation archive, a
record of
the lives of Britain’s
working classes in
the Thirties and
Forties, for his debut
collection. We’re
wearing his capacious
trousers with a
21st-century skate
T-shirt. At Hostem, E2
UNDERGROUND
STUDDED LEATHER, £285
UNDERGROUND
TARTAN, £125
The Teddy Boy creeper emerged as the
unlikely hit shoe on the autumn/winter
catwalks, thanks to Isabel Marant, Mulberry
and Delpozo. Pair them with a sequined
cocktail gown, vinyl wrap skirt or leather kilt
(and heaps of attitude, obviously).
ISABELMARANT
DELPOZO
MULBERRY
JOSHOLINS;JASONLLOYD-EVANS;MITCHELLSAMS;ALEXSAINSBURY
98
inVOGUE
BABEHEAVEN
John Alexander
Skelton
Whether you prefer BB,
bae or babe, the internet’s
buzzword for oh-so-cute
is now being co-opted
by these female-fronted
acts. Stream soothing, lo-fi
tracks by London-based
Babeheaven (lead singer
is 24-year-old Nancy
Andersen) or spike your
house party playlist with
future hip-hop classics
by 22-year-old Chicago
rapper Babe Field.
BABE FIELD
Name to know

JASONLLOYD-EVANS;MITCHELLSAMS;PAULBOWDEN;
JAMESCOCHRANE;ISTOCK;REXFEATURES
PRIS
RACHAEL
this month, keep your eyes peeled for
a new entry on Chiltern Street’s
social scene when James Brett,
founder of the Museum of Everything,
opens the Gallery of Everything. The
former barber shop will house an edit
of works by favourite artists from the
museum’s roster that are available to buy for
the first time, including André Robillard,
an 80-year-old gunsmith making replica
weaponry from found materials; Anna
Zemankova’s imaginary woven florals;
and miniature Mayan temples by French
hermit ACM. The added perk? Brett is
rumoured to be unveiling a hidden
subterranean disco. Watch this space.
The Gallery of Everything, 4 Chiltern Street,
W1 (Gallevery.com)
Ensure your pale grey
shearling hits below the knee
Last season’s pageboy
gets a mussed-up
“replicant” twist
THE LIP
THE HAIR ROLL
THE COAT
STYLE CUE
STYLE CUE
PEROXIDE BOWL CUT
Perfect REPLICANT
Robin Wright) will hit screens in 2017 is triggering a revival of the original 1982
film’s on-point sci-fi style. Flash forward, or rather back, to dystopian LA with neo-Forties hair
News that Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner 2 (starring Ryan Gosling, Harrison Ford and
rolls or a blunt peroxide bowl cut, fierce chokers and the funnel-neck shearling coat
THE COLLAR
METALLIC EYES
THE COAT
KENZO
ISABELMARANT
ALEXANDERWANG
PRABALGURUNG
KENZO
MAXMARA
PHILIPPPLEIN
100
inVOGUE
All encompassing
SHISEIDO ROUGE
ROUGE IN POPPY, £23, AT
HOUSE OF FRASER
MAC EXTRA
DIMENSION
EYESHADOW IN
EVENING GREY, £16

DOUBLE
TENSEUR
sisley-paris.co.uk
The new firming skin care
that smoothes the skin
and lifts facial features.
• An immediate smoothing effect.
The face appears more rested.
• A long-term firming action.
The skin’s firming capacity
is strengthened.

JASONLLOYD-EVANS.YASMINWEARSDRESS,COATANDBOOTS,ALLPETARPETROV.JEWELLERY,
BIBIVANDERVELDEN.SITTINGSEDITOR:JULIABRENARD.HAIR:JIMOSALAKO.MAKE-UP:SARAHMIERAU
Made to
ORDERTHE NEWLY RELAUNCHED STYLE.COM
IS SET TO CHANGE THE WAY WE SHOP
FOREVER, FINDS ELLIE PITHERS
fending off
snarky insiders’ questions (there was
mild outrage from the fashion
community when Style.com’s catwalk
coverage migrated to Voguerunway.
com) can’t have been easy.
Speaking of the project, however,
she is relentlessly
positive. “It has been a
lot of work, a lot of
meetings. The brands all
say the same thing: ‘Oh,
finally! I’ve been waiting!
I thought you were
launching back in March!’ But then we
have a discussion, they know they’re in
the world of Condé Nast, and that
standards are going to be high. I tell
them about the marketplace model,
whereby we take a commission but just
connect with their own e-commerce
inventory systems. It’s their inventory
that we shift, their images that we use,
and we handle all the customer
service.” The aim: readers earmark an
exquisitely embroidered Gucci biker
jacket, say, on Condé Nast’s magazine
pages, and then buy it on Style.com.
Sounds easy. But will Style.com
render Vogue something of a catalogue?
Will the tastes of editors be guided by
the brands that are stocked on the site?
And above all, does the world really
need another luxury fashion shopping
platform? “Right now, I don’t think the
industry is exciting the customer,” says
Sewell. “The market is changing, and
the consumer is looking
at everything for
inspiration: she’s not
drawn to one brand or
person or retailer or
magazine, so we’ve been
looking at where she
finds her fix. Our site will be super-
inspiring and exciting, the product mix
will be incredibly diverse, and we’re
speaking to people in an authentic way
that feels playful and modern. We have
technology that is really unique, and
we’re using content from the world’s
greatest publications.”
FranckZayan,Style.com’sdiminutive,
bespectacled president, puts it more
“We don’t need
another website
– we need a
different one”
W
hat the fuck is Style.com?”
Yasmin Sewell snorts with
laughter as the question –
obscenity neatly blurred out – flashes
up on a screen in a conference room at
the site’s Camden headquarters. The
nine other members of staff present
titter appreciatively at the proposed
slogan for its social-media launch
campaign. There is, however,
a hint of implicit frustration: for
two years they have been toiling,
and keeping shtoom, over the
creation of Condé Nast’s new
e-commerce platform. “With the
result that basically this” – Sewell
points at the screen – “is what
everyone is thinking.”
It’s a bright, blue-sky morning
in June, and we’re sitting in
the spotless 13,000sq ft office
space, formerly a bonded wine
warehouse, where Style.com’s
150 employees have set up
shop. It’s six months since
Sewell came on board as its
fashion director, after she was
persuaded to give up her fashion
consultancy business to take on a role
she terms “curator”. In that time she
has met with more than 100 fashion
brands with the goal of persuading
them to get on board with the newest
luxury fashion e-tailer on the block.
This month, Style.com – formerly a
host for fashion news and catwalk
content – became Condé Nast’s
first worldwide e-commerce venture,
launching in Britain and stocking more
than 200 brands, from big tickets such
as Gucci, Valentino and Rick Owens
to niche buzz labels such as Jacquemus
and Wanda Nylon.
A lean, lithe 40-year-old Australian,
immaculately outfitted in a Saint
Laurent breton T-shirt, Bassike black
trousers and Giuseppe Zanotti wedges
(despite a bandaged broken toe),
Sewell exudes optimism and energy.
Persuading all those brands and
Top: Style.com’s
fashion director,
Yasmin Sewell,
photographed by
Linda Brownlee.
Above: the new
site’s technology is
“really unique”
109
inVOGUE

LINDABROWNLEE;JASONLLOYD-EVANS;MITCHELLSAMS
succinctly. “We don’t need another
[e-commerce website] – we need a
different one.” Formerly head of
e-commerce at Galeries Lafayette, he
sees Style.com as a start-up, with
the added bonus of being able to ride
on the coat-tails of brands such as
Vogue and GQ. He insists that there
will be no conflation of “church and
state”, because “the venture’s success
depends on it.” In no way will Vogue,
GQ, Vanity Fair and, eventually,
other Condé Nast titles become
closed shops, ringfenced to cover
only products that are stocked on the
website. “Style.com’s value proposition
is built on leveraging the influence and
authority of the fantastic Condé Nast
brands,” says Zayan. So if that must-
have Balenciaga cagoule on the front
cover of Vogue’s September issue isn’t
stocked by Style.com, the e-tailer will
feature the cover, but then suggest
20 other jackets that still fit the brief.
But what will entice shoppers away
from retail giants such as Net-a-Porter,
Matchesfashion, Moda
Operandi, Farfetch,
Yoox and the rest?
Back in the meeting
room, after a few
concerns have been
raised about that
punchy advertising
campaign (“Will it offend Americans?
I want that Dallas customer!” laughs
Sewell), I’m given a tour of the beta
site. The design is clean, tasteful, and
injected with elements of fun that the
Gif generation will love – scroll down
a holding page for bomber jackets, for
instance, and a panel of street-style
stars showing off their Alpha Industries
flight jackets will sit alongside the
product; scroll further, and a gallery of
bomber jackets in the pages of Vogue
will appear above a short video of a
model larking around in new-season
styles. Melissa Dick, formerly of Asos,
has been recruited to hone the chatty,
conversational tone and guide all the
moving imagery. “We want it to feel
alive,” she explains.
Unique technology – which blends
artificial intelligence with human
curation – will throw up other trends,
rather than just guiding users through
linear product categories. “Our system
will recognise that if embroidered
bombers are having a moment, you
might want to see embroidered
bikers there, too,” says Sewell. “You’ll
go on a journey through trends of
jackets, what’s happening this season,
what we’re feeling.” And
what is she feeling?
“Vetements – we’ve got
a 50-piece exclusive
where we’re reproducing
an early collection in its
entirety. I’m excited
aboutthemix–Valentino
with Paco Rabanne,
then interesting young
designers like Ashley
Williams.” She snatches
a breath. “And the
boutique Colette – we
don’t partner with
retailers, but I felt that
Colette was almost more of a brand.
We’ll have the entire Colette offering
and then an exclusive collaboration
with 10 brands: Mira Mikati,
Balenciaga, Valentino, Gucci, Loewe,
Mansur Gavriel, Coach, Julien
David… Really cool people.”
There are plans to expand into
Europe, America and Asia. “The
e-commerce industry is still in
its infancy. It’s a rapidly
expanding sector which
offers huge opportunities
for growth,” explains
Jonathan Newhouse,
chairman and chief
executive of Condé Nast
International. Has he
invested more in Style.com than
one might have invested in a
magazine launch? “Yes, quite a bit
more,” he admits.
A couple of hours later, one
brand update meeting and
another demonstration of the
beauty website shell down, we
sit down to lunch at a café
around the corner from the
office. Picking at sea bass and
samphire, Sewell muses on
the irony that she is curating
fashion in a role that she
originally didn’t want. “I was
approached by Franck last
summer,andIwassuperintrigued
to find out more about this whole
Style.com thing,” she says. “I
remember thinking how much I
liked Franck and how the concept
was really smart – but not
for me.” What made her change her
mind? “I’ve worked with 50 different
companies in the last 10 years, so
my knowledge and understanding of
the global market and different
businesses is huge” – as an aside
to her now-wound-down consultancy
business, Sewell also founded and runs
a contemporary-sportswear-inflected
brand, Etre Cécile – “but I really
missed having an influence. Here, I get
to lead the fashion vision.”
Sydney-born Sewell dropped out of
school aged 15 and was taken on by a
26-year-old self-made millionaire. By
18, she was running his company, but
found a corporate office space too
restricting. Keen to see the world,
she came to London with her
first husband, the actor Rufus
Sewell, and was variously an
intern at Harpers Queen and
a window-dresser at Browns.
In 1998 she set up her own
boutique in Soho, where
Courtney Love was her best
client (closely followed by Tom
Cruise).When the shop shut she
returned briefly to Australia, then
forged a career as a consultant and
buyer, initially at Browns, where
she championed young designers
such as Christopher Kane and
Roksanda Ilincic, latterly at Liberty,
before going it alone.
Turning 40 marked a watershed.
“It’s almost like I’ve become aware of
my power and my experience. I’ve
actually had a lot – 25 years. So it
was perfect timing to start this job.”
Now married to Kyle Robinson,
with whom she owns Etre Cécile,
she lives in Dalston with their
two sons, Knox, four, and Lorenzo,
one. She says her new routine allows
her to be more “present” with her
children. “I don’t believe in working
long hours. I like to get into the office,
be completely focused, make decisions,
get it done, then get home and go
straight into being a mum.”
And her next challenge? “Style.com
is going to have a really huge party.” Q
“You’ll go
on a journey
through what
we’re feeling”
Above and
right: the
Style.com office.
Below: three
of the site’s
partner brands,
Jacquemus,
Rick Owens
and Sies Marjan
SIESMARJAN
JACQUEMUS
RICKOWENS
110
inVOGUE

A/W 2016 Collection
joseph-fashion.com

www•degrisogono•com
B A L H A R B O U R • C A P R I • C O U R C H E V E L • D U B A I • G E N E VA • G S TA A D • K U WA I T
LONDON • MOSCOW • NEW YORK • PARIS • PORTO CERVO • ROME • ST
MORITZ
LONDON BOUTIQUE - 15A NEW BOND STREET - TEL. +44 (0)207 499 22 25

REGENT STREET SLOANE SQUARE
BROMPTON CROSS MARYLEBONE HIGH STREET

BIG, BOLD AND GLAMOROUS ENOUGH FOR NIGHT
AS WELL AS DAY, THE STATEMENT COAT HAS
ARRIVED. IT’S A WRAP, SAYS SARAH HARRIS
f
orget what anyone has ever
told you about the evening
coat. It’s now a category of
your wardrobe that is null and
void, or rather has simply segued
into daylight hours. It’s the same
nonsense about a day perfume and
a night perfume: your fragrance is
your fragrance, and if it is chosen
well, you can make the transition
from day to night without having
to reach for a second scent. Now,
it’s the same with coats – and the
more out-there they are in their
colour, texture, silhouette and
decoration, the better.
Few are more decorated than
those at Erdem. Ankle-skimming
skirted coats in Prince of Wales
check were embroidered with
rich floral displays; flocked-velvet
styles had shoulder seams and
lapels embellished with crystals
and pearls; and fit-and-flare
EMBROIDERED
Covered
in GLORY
FUZZY
ERDEM
MIUMIU
PREEN
BURBERRY
117
inVOGUE

brocade versions came
double-breasted in an ad hoc
selection of jewelled buttons. (Tip
for turning last season’s tame black
coat into this season’s statement-
maker: load the lapels with crystal
brooches – apply the flower-arranging
rule that odd numbers
work best, and try
groupings of three or five.)
Miu Miu, too, went the
rich and opulent route:
noble tapestries trimmed
in black velvet had
something of the dowager
about them (until, that is,
one arrived on Gigi Hadid and looked
sizzling with heels and bare legs).
But you don’t have to be Gigi Hadid
– nor, for that matter, Theresa May.
Now there’s a woman who can
navigate her way around a loud coat
with apparent ease. From graphic and
abstract to retina-burning brights, or
with placement colour block, she’s
worn them all, and mostly succeeded.
But there’s one shade she can’t wear:
white. A coat thereof would suit the
PM perfectly, but the connotations
would never wash among her critics
because the woman in a white coat
doesn’t do anything. She can’t. Brave
the British weather? No way. Address
the public? Forget it. Leaf through
a newspaper? Not unless there’s a
steaming towel to hand – the type
that’s proffered from a pair of tongs
in first-class cabins. White coats are
reserved for a special breed, one that
flits through life magically repelling
dirt and grime. She will find her fix at
Chanel, Dior and Giambattista Valli.
But if you’re the type prone to coffee
spillages and other mishaps – go wipe-
clean. Black oil-slick numbers were a
theme at Loewe, where Jonathan
Anderson opted for roomy and
sweeping; at Miu Miu, where belted
long-and-lean styles had a flicker
of retro; and at Proenza Schouler,
where Jack McCollough and Lazaro
Hernandez pimped theirs with
contrast stitching and a shearling collar.
This brings us neatly to the subject
of fuzz – another factor featuring high
on the statement-coat agenda. Yes,
Preen’s pink Mongolian-fur style was
particularly pretty,but several designers
decided on a murky, swampy green –
the exact hue, in fact, of Sesame Street’s
Oscar the Grouch. Christopher Bailey
presented Burberry’s in fox fur; at Nina
Ricci it arrived in shiny goatskin;
while at Rochas it was shearling.
When it comes to shape, go big or
go home. Puffed-up coats are giving
a whole new meaning to the term
“duvet days”, meaning that now you
can pretty much leave the house with
your bedclothes on your back.
Sounds good, doesn’t it?
Stella McCartney favoured
deflated down
styles, while
Chanel showed
quilted padded
versions in
palest pink –
with matching
handbags. But
no one cemented
the renaissance of padding
better than Balenciaga’s
Demna Gvasalia (let’s get
the pronunciation correct,
since you’re going to be
hearing his name a lot:
it’s Deem-nah Vas-ah-lia –
the G is silent), who sent out a red
oversize quilted jacket that was worn
shrugged off Julia Nobis’s shoulders.
Interestingly, it was partnered with a
crystal turtleneck, black dress trousers
and jewelled stilettos, which makes
this topper a choice that points to a
When it
comes to
shape, go
big or
go home
whole other kind of statement – the
coatthat’sananti-statementstatement.
This is an idea that extends to the
return of the all-weather anorak, too,
even though at Balenciaga those Helly
Hansen-style zip-ups were actually
inspired by opera coats discovered in
the archives of the storied Spanish
house; this was made evident by the
attention paid to how they were worn
– with yanked-back open necklines
and collars swept firmly up. It may be
an anorak but it’s styled as though it’s a
grand couture piece made in expensive
duchesse satin. While over at Dior,
smart double-breasted coats were
skewed, draped from one shoulder to
look as if they had been tossed on in a
hurry. And therein is the directive on
how to wear your coat this season: the
more outstanding the coat, the more
nonchalance required; conversely,
the more casual the coat, the more
important the demeanour. Easy, no? Q
WHITE
VINYL
PADDED
GIAMBATTISTAVALLI
CHANEL
STELLAMcCARTNEY
DIOR
PROENZASCHOULER
MIUMIU
LOEWE
118
inVOGUE

JASONLLOYD-EVANS;MITCHELLSAMS;IRINAGAVRICH;THINHDONG
i
nfluential buyers and critics hailed
Johanna Ortiz’s collection of off-
the-shoulder shirts and ruffled
polka-dot skirts as one of the standouts
in a crowded Paris schedule in March.
Except Ortiz isn’t based in Paris, where
she has presented her collection for the
past few seasons.Nowhere near,in fact.
Her studio in Colombia is some 5,000
miles away, in a completely different
whenshestockedVitaKin’svyshyvanka-
influenced embroidered dresses and
blouses, which sold out as soon as
they hit the shop floor. Designers
Anna K and Anna October are
also doing much to promote the
country’s artisanal handiwork, offering
a wild mash-up of romantic, folkloric
influences. And it isn’t only designers
from the Ukraine. There’s Goen J
time zone. Like many new designers
who are ones to watch and,increasingly,
ones to wear, she doesn’t hail from one
of the traditional four fashion capitals
of London, New York, Paris or Milan.
Perhaps it’s their different perspectives,
garnered from creative spaces in far-
flung places, that mark them out.
Alex Eagle put Ukrainian national
dress on the fashion map last summer
AS SEVERAL DESIGNERS EMERGE BEYOND LONDON, MILAN, NEW YORK AND
PARIS, WHAT WILL BECOME OF THE FASHION HUBS, ASKS CAROLYN ASOME
Continental DRIFT
CHINA
Huishan Zhang
AUSTRALIA
Kym Ellery
COLOMBIA
Johanna Ortiz
RUSSIA
Olga Vilshenko
AUSTRIA
Petar Petrov
125
inVOGUE

GETTY;VANTAGENEWS
from South Korea, Australia’s Kym
Ellery, Petar Petrov in Vienna
and Huishan Zhang, who was born
in China.
“It’s great in one sense,” believes
Sarah Rutson, vice president of global
buying at Net-a-Porter, “because
everyone is looking for something new
so you have the ability to stand out
and have a story. The disadvantage,”
she continues,“is getting eyeballs on to
what you do. And then it’s whether
they can deliver, what is their
production like. It’s an unknown entity
and it’s an even bigger risk factor
when you are based miles away and not
set up for it. Talent is only part of
the package; you need infrastructure.”
These days, shipping logistics may
no longer be such a sticking point,
but the biggest challenge that many
of the new cohort of further-flung
designers face (aside from Brexit) is
their presence at the biannual merry-
go-round of fashion shows. Twice a
year, if fashion buyers aren’t visiting
them in their own local fashion weeks
(increasingly challenging, given the
crammed schedule), they will need to
get their clothes to a showroom in
Paris, London or Milan.
Anna K, who is from Kiev and is
stocked in more than 30 stores globally,
and fellow Ukrainian Anna October,
have a lot to thank Daria Shapovalova
for. A former fashion journalist and co-
founder of the PR agency More Dash,
which represents Eastern European
designers, she was also appointed the
creative director of Mercedes-Benz
Kiev Fashion Days, an initiative to put
the city’s fashion on the map.
“Of course, buyers could do all their
orders by email,” she admits, “but
ultimately we’re talking about clothes.
People need to be able to touch and see
the pieces. It’s also a great platform for
these designers to meet the big players
in the industry. And sometimes the
advice they can offer is even better than
the sales they might place. Is it tougher
for my Ukrainian designers? Of course,
but someone once told me that when
you don’t have as many possibilities,
you simply work harder. We are
certainly used to trying harder.”
“Networking is the hardest,” says
Petar Petrov, who’s currently making
waves with his brand of sleek, feminine
tailoring. “It’s having that access to the
experts. I am based in Vienna – a very
beautiful city, but it isn’t a fashion city.
I have to travel a lot to meet people.”
There are tricks to employ: Kym
Ellery, who presents in Paris but is
based in Sydney, found that ensuring
her collections chimed with the
Northern Hemisphere season-wise
made her clothes more relevant globally.
Social media – specifically Instagram –
also plays its part, a canny tool for
discovering far-flung designers,but also
enabling designers to be more visible
and engage with their fans. Ellery
has 164,000 followers, Anna K has
54,000 and regularly posts pictures of
her clients and friends wearing her
designs. Johanna Ortiz (121,000
followers)saysit’snotonlyencouraging
but useful to receive comments from
customers all over the world.
Does Natalie Kingham, buying
director at Matchesfashion.com, feel
it’s imperative for designers to move
nearer the main fashion hubs? “No,
it would be boring if everyone lived
here,”she says.“But it’s worth spending
some time over here to understand
the culture and retailers. The other
issue [for designers] is that unless they
team up with a showroom, they’re
not very set up for understanding
retail mark-up. I’ve seen that happen
a lot in domestic
markets such as Japan or South Korea.
A designer could sell very well in
their own market but they might
not have thought about how much
they can realistically charge for their
clothes abroad, in order that they
cover their shipping costs yet
remain competitive with big-name
designer brands.”
Most of the designers I speak to are
hopeful that one day they might
transfer to Paris or New York, or at the
very least open a base in a fashion city.
“Not just for the time-difference
issues,” says Ellery, who is moving to
Paris shortly, “but to be nearer to the
experts in the field.”
“We are committed to finding and
offering the new, the exclusive
and unusual – and today we have
many more ways to do this.
Through social media we are able to
see new brands from around the
world, and how they engage with
fashion communities,” says Jeannie
Lee, designerwear buying manager
at Selfridges. “Style trends and cults
are developing much more quickly,
as well as awareness of new labels.
In line with this, our approach
to buying is changing, too.
Although the main fashion capitals
continue to be the focus for much
of our buying activity, we are
Tamu
McPherson
in Johanna
Ortiz
Blogger
Maja
Weyhe
wears
Petar
Petrov
Blogger Evangelie
Smyrniotaki in Kym
Ellery at the Paris
couture shows
Elisa Sednaoui
in a skirt by
the Vienna-
based designer
Petar Petrov
“Is it tougher for my Ukrainian
designers? Of course. But
when you don’t have as many
possibilities, you work harder”
ON THE STREET
126
inVOGUE

JEFFTHIBODEAU;REXFEATURES
thinking more globally
than ever and can be
more responsive to
designers based outside of
these cities.”
Brexit presents another
challenge. While it’s far too
early to speculate – the only
certainty is that London now
effectively offers a 10 per cent
discount by dint of a weaker pound
– many worry that in the longer
term, restrictions on immigration
may constrict the talent pool.
Tom Chapman, co-chairman of
Matchesfashion.com, also feels it is
too early to make any assumptions but
remains confident in the strength of
the business’s geographical
mix and longstanding
relationships with global
partner designers.
Meanwhile, Olga
Vilshenko, the Russian-
based designer who has
studios in both London and
Moscow, feels Brexit raises
significant concern for her,
as it does all businesses in
Europe and beyond – the
uncertainty more than
anything is unsettling.
However she has navigated
the recent recession and the
weakened ruble in Russia:
“We are confident we can
stay strong in the marketplace if
Britain takes the same direction. As
a brand, we’ve found it to be really
beneficial splitting the business
between Britain, Europe and Russia,
playing to all our strengths in each
market and minimising risks. In fact
we’ve opened a further 25 doors
globally post-Brexit.”
No stranger to commuting, every
month she travels to London, soaking
up all the city has to offer
culturally, as well as
meeting buyers and style
influencers. It remains to
be seen how this will play
out in the future. The
fabrics that Vilshenko
buys from the fabric
fair Première Vision are
uploaded on to a system so that both
studio teams can access it. If it wasn’t
for her family (Vilshenko has three
sons – one is currently at boarding
school here), she thinks she would
relocate entirely. But she also cites the
downside of leaving Moscow. “It’s
easier to find really skilled pattern-
cutters and women who specialise in
embroidery there; who have that
artisanal knowhow which has often
been passed down through the
generations.”
Huishan Zhang was born and raised
in Qingdao, on the east coast of China.
He travels between his atelier there
and his studio in London roughly
every 10 days, spending equal amounts
of time in both, a lifestyle that has
rendered him somewhat immune to
jetlag. His clothes are inspired as much
by traditional Chinese heritage as they
are by London style.“While it’s a lot of
travel, I like the mix it affords me,”
he says. “My label, which is now 10
years old, is very much a London
brand, but it’s a fusion of East meets
West. Over there I have access to
craftsmanship and local artisan
techniques but then I might combine
some French embroidery. Plus,
London is so influential culturally
speaking, that it’s really helpful to dip
in and out of both.”
Certainly, it’s unlikely that Johanna
Oritzwouldhaveproducedacollection
so steeped in a raw, sultry sexuality had
she been based anywhere
else: you can almost feel the
heat in her ruffled blouses
and dramatic gowns that
jut out in layers from the
waist, all adorned in wild,
vibrant floral prints. “I
grew up in a region where
sugar plantations lie at the
feet of exuberant mountains. Cali, my
home city, is a place of tropical colours
and a great variety of flora. It is also
the capital of salsa music; it’s in the
DNA of my clothes.” She’s right;
how challenging would it have been
to produce this paean to exotica from
a warehouse in Dalston? Q
From Kiev to Qingdao, designers engage with their customers through Instagram…
SNAPPED UP
“We’ve
opened 25
more doors
globally
post-Brexit”
Christine
Centenera,
wearing
Kym Ellery
at New
York
Fashion
Week
Leandra
Medine wears
a blouse by
Vilshenko to
London
Fashion Week
Kerry
Washington
in Huishan
Zhang
inVOGUE
128
@goenjofficial@annakfashion @vitakin_originals@anna_october_

Hosted by Suzy Menkes, International Vogue Editor, the premier event
for luxury creative and business leaders takes place in the lush
and calming retreat of Muscat in 2017.
Muscat, Oman5-6 April 2017
Navigating the New Silk Routes
Tickets available now
at cniluxury.com / +44 20 7152 3472
Read Suzy Menkes’s articles at suzymenkesvogue.com
@CNILuxury / @SuzyMenkesVogue
“The Condé Nast International Luxury Conference 2017 will explore the vast reach
of 21st-Century luxury. Oman stands at the nexus of this global trade,
oﬀering a unique perspective that encompasses India to the Far East, Europe to Arabia.
Today, from its unique vantage point over three seas, Muscat is still the perfect location
from which to explore the new silk routes.”

paris, 38 fbg saint honoré - london, 6f sloane street - new york, 959 madison avenue
jitrois.com

Photographs by JAN LEHNER
NOW
What
tobuy
Soften summer’s end
with blooms tough
enough to take the
chill. The tea dress is
upgraded to an ankle-
grazing gown with
a military twist
Silk shirtdress, £390,
Ganni, at Net-a-
Porter.com. Suede
boots, £365, Sonia
by Sonia Rykiel.
Ear cuff, £40, II.
Drop earrings, £138,
Elizabeth James.
Gold-plated bracelet,
£145, Thomas Sabo.
Gold-plated ring,
£95, Dinny Hall.
Hair: Kei Terada.
Make-up: Ninni
Nummela. Nails:
Pebbles Aikens.
Model: Vera Van Erp.
Fashion editor:
Julia Brenard
Winter garden
131
VOGUEshopsTHANKSTOSPRINGSTUDIOS

A clash of power prints from
head to toe deines the new
mood. Plump for added volume
with an arts-and-crafts twist
Silk shirt, £239,
Sandro. Silk trousers,
£119, Warehouse.
Backless brocade
loafers, £45,
Topshop. Gold-plated
earrings, £360,
Anissa Kermiche, at
Matchesfashion.com
133
VOGUEshopsJANLEHNER

JANLEHNER
A punkish leather mini is never out of style
– the difference now is the detailing. Opulent
embroidery adds a new textural dimension
Mohair sweater,
£350, Escada.
Embroidered
cotton shirt, £160,
Bruta. Embroidered
leather miniskirt,
£95, Topshop. Gold
hoops, £120. Gold
ring, £160. Both
II. Gold-plated
bracelet, £189,
Helena Rohner,
at Couverture
The Garbstore
134
VOGUEshops

JANLEHNER
When it comes to metallics,
all eyes are on the lower-strewn
bronze jacket, pared back with
a denim shirt and bare legs
Brocade jacket, £65,
River Island. Brocade
belt, £35, Topshop.
Denim shirt, £185,
MIH Jeans. Wool-mix
miniskirt, £245,
Vanessa Bruno. Vinyl
boots, £135, Senso.
Stud earring, £95,
Laura Lee Jewellery.
Hoops, as before
136
VOGUEshops

City merger
Master the good-girl-bad-girl
mix. Pinstripes and pleats
are no longer only about a
conservative uniform; mini
lengths and scarlet boots call
on the rebel within
Cotton shirt, £180,
Iro, at Asos.com.
Satin skirt, £79,
Gestuz. Suede boots,
£345, Russell
Bromley. Drop
earring, £10, Mango.
Gold-plated and
Swarovski-crystal
bangle, £79,
Swarovski. Gold
ring, £175, II
139
VOGUEshopsJANLEHNER

Subscribe to VOGUE
CALL 0844 848 5202 REF CVO16056 OR VISIT WWW.VOGUE.CO.UK/SUBSCRIBE/CVO16056
*Offer closes October 11th, 2016. The offer and gift are subject to availability and limited to UK addresses. The rate of 6 for £12 is limited to direct debit
payments and will be renewed at the rate of 6 for £19.50.
6 PRINT + FREE iPAD AND iPHONE EDITIONS + FREE GIFT*
ALL FOR ONLY £12
Subscribe today and receive
the new Antonia Burrell
Biotech Supreme Pressed
Serum, RRP £85* - FREE!
The latest buzzword on the skincare stage is “Pressed Serum”, the combination of a
serum with a moisturiser to create a moisturising superhero. World-renowned facialist
Antonia Burrell has spent the past five years developing a pressed serum that brings
together the dedicated science of biotechnology with the most effective ingredients
found in natural skincare. Biotech Supreme Pressed Serum can work both as a
standalone moisturiser and as a smart targeted serum. By facilitating staged delivery
of key ingredients to the deepest layers of the skin, this new pressed serum
achieves amazing results. For further information visit www.antoniaburrell.com.
FREE
GIFT*
RRP £85

Ease into grown-up style: a ribbed
knit and white slip-ons turn
cartoon animal prints smart
Sleeveless wool
sweater, £295,
Amanda Wakeley.
Cotton shirt, £40,
HM. Silk trousers,
£360, Kate Moss
for Equipment, at
Harrods. Backless
leather loafers, £295,
Tibi. Leather bag,
£250, Furla.
Asymmetric drop
earrings, £10, Mango.
Silver ear cuff, £35,
II. Silver bracelet,
£55, Thomas Sabo.
Silver and zirconia
ring, £135, Thomas
Sabo. Silver signet
ring, £195, Laura
Lee Jewellery
141
VOGUEshopsJANLEHNER

JANLEHNER
Let the strappy pinafore dress enhance
your silhouette without a big reveal. The
colour to sport? Flesh tones, naturally
Crêpe dress, £250,
Whistles. Ribbed
turtleneck, £225,
By Malene Birger.
Leather boots, £320,
Zadig Voltaire. Hoop
earrings, £10, Mango.
Rings, as before
142
VOGUEshops

JANLEHNER
Cheat the new proportions
with a lared-sleeve sweater
pulled out from beneath
a classic trench
Cotton trench
coat, £160, French
Connection. Wool
sweater, £310,
Beauﬁlle, at Net-a-
Porter.com. Denim
jeans, £275, Keji,
at Selfridges. Suede
shoes, £75, Aldo. Silver
earrings, £180, Dinny
Hall. Disc pendant,
£65, Helena Rohner,
at Couverture
The Garbstore.
For stockists, all
pages, see Vogue
Information
144
VOGUEshops

W W W . M E S D E M O I S E L L E S P A R I S . C O M

CECILBEATON.DOMINICWEARSSWEATER,MHLBYMARGARETHOWELL.
T-SHIRT,GUCCI.GROOMING:MICHAELO’GORMAN
Autumn
ALMANAC
f
rom Casanova to Rhett Butler,
the rakish tradition is populated
by irresistible hellraisers who
jump from gambling house to bar
to bedchamber, all the while making
barbed remarks at others’ expense.
And yet, they are entertaining.
“What they relish, above all else,
is wit,” says Dominic Cooper during
a rare break in rehearsals for Terry
Johnson’s The Libertine. “Everything,
no matter how dark, lands with a joke.”
The drama sees Cooper take on the
role of Restoration rake John Wilmot,
2nd Earl of Rochester. Rochester only
lived to 33,but in that time he abducted
a wealthy heiress, triggered chaos all
over London with his “merry gang”,
and was sent to the Tower on multiple
occasions–allwhilewritingsensational
poetry. “And he had a bottle of claret
either side of breakfast,” Cooper
cheerfully points out.
With an expression that flashes
between a knowing smirk and a
conspiratorial grin, Cooper seems a
natural fit for the character. So far his
preparations for the role have been
appropriately rakish – “I sat with the
writer for a good three hours over a few
bottles of red and discussed the earl’s
life” – but he plans on fully immersing
himself in Rochester’s world before
performances begin, and a meeting
with an Oxford don is in the works.
“The earl repulses me and exhilarates
me in the same measure,” says Cooper.
“The outlandish and sometimes
revolting things that he manages to get
away with are bizarrely fascinating.”
Yet the actor sees Rochester’s mindless
debauchery as a response to the futility
of life. “We are all animals, scratching
and rutting under an empty sky,” he
quotes. “Don’t we all come face to face
with that five times a day?
Ultimately, that’s the difficult
truth that we’re up against.
Why not have fun and cause
chaos? Maybe he’s got it right
– but you get the impression
that the darker side of that is
pretty bleak. By all accounts,
he was drunk the whole time.”
So, not a part for method
acting, then? “Maybe by the
end of the run,” he deadpans.
“The Libertine”is at theTheatre
Royal, Haymarket, WC1, from
September 22
What to do, where to go and
what to see over the coming
months. By Hayley Maitland
THE PLAY
Dominic Cooper treads the boards
as the reprobate Earl of Rochester
STAGE DIRECTIONS
THE THEATRE
THE INTELLIGENT HOMOSEXUAL’S GUIDE TO CAPITALISM AND
SOCIALISM WITH A KEY TO THE SCRIPTURES
Tony Kushner’s tongue-in-cheek play follows retired Marxist
dock worker Gus as he searches for meaning during an outlandish
family reunion in Brooklyn. Hampstead Theatre, from October 15
GIRLS
Award-winning young playwright
Theresa Ikoko revisits Boko Haram’s 2014
kidnapping of Nigerian schoolgirls in a
drama about three best friends navigating
their captivity – and adolescence – together.
Soho Theatre, from September 27
ONCE IN A LIFETIME
Richard Jones revives this Thirties
comedy about three New Yorkers
trying to make it in Hollywood –
encountering megalomaniac
producers, silver-screen beauties and
overbearing stage mothers along the way.
The Young Vic, from November 25
Rake’s progress
Three more conversation-starters to see this autumn
Dominic Cooper
takes a rakish turn
in The Libertine.
Photograph:
John Spinks.
Sittings editor:
Florence Arnold
VOGUE’
S
AUTUMN
A
L M A N A
C
153
VOGUEview

A PORTRAIT OF AW16
karenmillen.com

ALASDAIRMcLELLAN;JOSHOLINS;ANDYBARTER;JOHNGOSS;
CECILBEATONARCHIVE;MARIANOVIVANCO;PAMELAHANSON;HORST
set in the rural village of
Athlone in the mid-19th
century, Emma Donoghue’s
The Wonder (Picador, £14.99) follows
Crimean War nurse Lib as she
tends to a pious 11-year-old who has
seemingly fasted for months – only to
ﬁnd herself at the heart of a religious
conspiracy. Meanwhile, Eimear
McBride’s second novel, The Lesser
Bohemians (Faber Faber, £16.99),
centres on Irish 18-year-old Eily as
she moves to London to attend drama
school in the mid-Nineties – but as the
memory of IRA terrorism preoccupies
the capital, her romance with a
disturbed actor more than twice her
age begins to consume her. Jess Kidd’s
chilling debut Himself (Canongate,
£12.99) recounts Mahoney’s journey
to his birthplace on Ireland’s west
coast to ﬁnd out what happened to the
mother who abandoned him as a baby,
much to the horror of the villagers of
Mulderrig, who are less than willing to
give up their chilling secrets.
Volumes by Vogue photographers to grace any coffee table
Shooting gallery
Harriet Quick rounds up the
superlative shoes from the past
100 years in Vogue: The Shoe
(Conran Octopus, £75). Here
are some of our favourites…
HEEL THYSELF
THE MONOGRAPH
THE READING LIST
Fresh Eire
CECIL BEATON AT HOME
Photographer, illustrator,
designer and writer – and
now we can add decorator to
the list. Cecil Beaton at Home
(Rizzoli, £50) roves through
the houses that Beaton
shaped, and was shaped
by, from his circus-themed
bedroom at Ashcombe House
to his Fernand Léger-inspired
suite at the Plaza Hotel.
PORTRAITS, NUDES, FLOWERS
“After women,” said Christian Dior, “flowers
are the loveliest thing God has given the world.”
Fortunately, photographer Mariano Vivanco’s
latest volume, Portraits, Nudes, Flowers (Damiani,
£35), includes both, juxtaposing Nineties
supermodels with peonies and pop idols with
hibiscus flowers – all introduced with a foreword
by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana.
PRIVATE ROOM
Photographer Pamela Hanson
studies the art of the female nude in
Private Room (Damiani, £30). Eight
models, including Camille Rowe
(pictured), have been photographed
over three years in a suite at
Lafayette House in Manhattan.
AROUND THAT TIME
In the Sixties, Horst’s
shoots for Vogue opened
the doors to the world’s
most luxurious houses.
This reprint includes
Valentino’s exquisite
palazzo (left), Yves Saint
Laurent’s art-deco mecca
on Rue du Babylon, and
Emilio Pucci’s Florentine
home. (Abrams, £45)
2010
2011
1967
The most alluring new fiction
has an Irish bent
VOGUE’
S
AUTUMN
A
L M A N A
C
155
VOGUEview

ALLSTAR;JAMESRICHARDS;HELENMARTEN/SADIECOLESHQ/ANNIKWETTER;YURIPATTISON/MOTHER’STANKSTATION
JAMES RICHARDS
Turner Prize nominee James
Richards creates a microcosm
of the digital world at the ICA
in Requests and Antisongs,
which uses a series of videos
to reflect our media-saturated
society. September 21 to
November 20
…AND CUT!
CAFE SOCIETY
Woody Allen’s Café Society might be
his most stylish film since Annie Hall.
Costume designer Suzy Benzinger
partnered with the Chanel atelier to
create glamorous Thirties looks for
the period Hollywood romp. As the
secretary to A-list celebrity agent Steve
Carell, Kristen Stewart (above left)
wears silk and lace dresses painstakingly
recreated from the house’s archives
– while Blake Lively (above right),
playing a Manhattan heiress, glitters in
reproductions of Coco’s diamond plume
bracelet and symphony earrings.
Opens on September 2
NOCTURNAL ANIMALS
For his second turn as a director,
Tom Ford presents Nocturnal Animals,
an adaptation of Austin Wright’s
dark metafictional novel Tony and
Susan – think Cormac McCarthy
meets David Lynch. Amy Adams stars
as housewife Susan, who spirals into
the depths of anxiety after receiving
the manuscript of a chilling novel
written by her ex-husband – while
Jake Gyllenhaal plays the role of Tony,
the book’s protagonist, whose
late-night road-trip with his wife and
daughter skids tragically out of control.
Opens on November 4
WOODSHOCK
Rodarte founders Kate and
Laura Mulleavy, who designed the
lavish costumes for Darren Aronofsky’s
Black Swan, have gone one step
further by writing and directing their
own screenplay, Woodshock. Starring
the sisters’ friend Kirsten Dunst
and Boyhood’s Lorelei Linklater,
this is a chilling story of drug use
and paranoia – with a hefty dose
of the pair’s darkly romantic style.
Opens later this year
THE FASHION FILMS
THE TV GUIDE
DIGITAL WATCH
THE EXHIBITIONS
HELEN MARTEN
At the Sackler Gallery,
Helen Marten questions the
nature of reality – material,
virtual and everything in
between – through sculptural
tableaux that make everyday
objects unfamiliar. September
29 to November 20
YURI PATTISON
Over in Regent’s Park, Frieze
Artist Award winner Yuri
Pattison takes on the role
of Big Brother, collecting
data on the fair’s visitors
and livestreaming it on huge
stock-exchange-style screens.
October 6 to 9
the golden age of television continues, with a
host of Oscar-winning directors adjusting their
lenses for the small screen this autumn, from
Baz Luhrmann’s The Get Down to Woody Allen’s
Crisis in Six Scenes for Amazon Prime. Now Paolo
Sorrentino follows suit with The Young Pope (below
right; Sky Atlantic), a drama shadowing Pius XIII
(Jude Law), the first American pope, as he attempts
to revolutionise the Vatican in the 21st century.
Stephen Poliakoff’s Close to the Enemy (right; BBC2)
turns back time to visit a bomb-damaged London
hotel after the Second World War, where Captain
Callum Ferguson (Jim Sturgess) must force a captured
German scientist to work with the RAF and develop
a powerful jet engine. Meanwhile, Anthony Hopkins,
Evan Rachel Wood and Ed Harris star in JJ Abrams’s
remake of the classic 1973 film Westworld (top; Sky
Atlantic).Setinafuturisticamusementparkpopulated
by rogue androids, the series combines the drama of
old-school westerns with space-age technology.
Screen grabs
The season’s most intriguing art shows take the technological revolution as their theme
VOGUE’
SAUTUMN
A
L M A N A
C
156
VOGUEview

AGADRIANOGOLDSCHMIED
A G J E A N S . C O M

Hit refresh on the typical dinner-and-a-movie combination at these cinema-
themed supper clubs. Created by Teatime Production’s Polly Betton and
food designers Blanch Shock, Edible Cinema’s unique tasting menus come
in sealed boxes with each morsel corresponding to a specific point in the
narrative. Previous events have seen guests served tubes of chlorophyll dye
when Kate Winslet colours her hair green in Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless
Mind and a vial of gin and Aperol as Juliet swallows the apothecary’s poison
in Baz Luhrmann’s Romeo and Juliet. Meanwhile, Kino Vino founder Alissa
Timoshkina puts her PhD in film history to good use pairing chefs with movies,
developing cocktails and multi-course dinners that are thematically tied to
screenings – think a buckwheat-inspired menu after Soviet-era masterpiece
Mirror or goose-liver parfait doughnuts following Fantastic Mr Fox.
MEALS AND REELS
THE SUPPER CLUBS
Where dining is concerned, Mexico is the
new Hawaii – 2017 promises to be all about
the taco. Featuring an upright grill and a
corn-tortilla bakery on the ground floor,
Sam and Eddie Hart’s 60-seater restaurant
El Pastor opens this November in Borough
Market. And with 100 variations on the
theme,Tacopedia (Phaidon,£19.95) will tell
you all you need to know. Nicole Mowbray
As the most
nutrient-
dense green
vegetable out
there, expect
seaweed to be
big culinary
news next
year. Foraging
courses are
on offer from
Cornwall to
Scotland, but
if you don’t
fancy getting
your hands
dirty, buy the
fresh stuff
online, from
Justseaweed.
com.
THE FOOD
Upgrade your morning caffeine kick
with Drip App, which features a guide
to independent cafés and roasteries
around London, all tailored to your
location. Entertaining at home? Hello
Vino makes sommeliers of wine novices,
suggesting pairings for any given
dish. Built by a team of Californian
oenophiles, it has an encyclopedic
list of grape varieties, from Albariño
to Zinfandel, with commentary on
flavour profiles and notable vineyards.
Download the Liquor Cabinet for
classic cocktail recipes along with more
unusual libations, such as the tequila-
infused Mexican Firing Squad.
DRINKS ON TAP
THE APPS
“My grandfather was born in north India
and was living a dull, provincial life in
Punjab – until one day, he found an ad
for boats sailing to Africa and decided to
run away. When he landed in Mombasa in
the Forties,he instantly fell in love with the
wildness of the place and bought a farm.
The dishes that I ate in Kenya as a child
were influenced by my family’s heritage –
Indian recipes made with local spices and
produce from our shamba, or allotment.
When my family moved to London,
another culinary tradition was added into
the mix. My mother’s version of fish and
chips included a batter made with ginger,
mustard seeds and cumin. It’s that
immigrant magic that inspires my own
recipes, which combine east African,
Indian and British staples to make dishes
such as quail Scotch eggs with banana
ketchup and spicy shepherd’s pie.”
Jikoni, 19-21 Blandford Street, W1
Spice world
THE RESTAURANT
Gordon Ramsay protégée Ravinder
Bhogal, right, opens her first restaurant,
Jikoni, this autumn. Here, she reflects
on the heritage and travels that have
inspired her fusion menu
THE CUISINE
Mexican wave
SEAWEED
ARTHURELGORT;TERRYRICHARDSON;FABULOUS;ISTOCK
VOGUE’
S
AUTUMN
A
L M A N A
C
159
VOGUEview

JACKWEARSSHIRT,CLUBMONACO.JEANS,UNIQLO.SHOES,LEKASHA.KIRIWEARSPINAFORE,FRAMEDENIM.SHEERTOP,MOTHEROFPEARL.SHOES,PAULACADEMARTORI.
BRACELETANDRINGS,PAMELALOVE.EARRINGS,II.EDDIEWEARST-SHIRT,UNIQLO.JEANS,ACNE.TRAINERS,VICTORIASHOES.HAIR:ALEXISDAY.MAKE-UP:CAROLINESIMS
MATILDA GOAD began her career in
fashion magazines before assisting
photographer Venetia Scott; now
she styles events from magical
marquees to chic London dinners.
In demand particularly from the
fashion crowd, it was Goad who
was responsible for the vivid
centrepiece of vibrant pinks on the
party table for Eugenie Niarchos’s
jewellery label Venyx World, as
well as the multicoloured window
for Shrimps and Lina Stores during
London Fashion Week (above).
VICTORIA VON WESTENHOLZ learnt
her skills from her decorator father
Piers; he was responsible for the
elegant renovation of Prince
Charles’s Dumfries House. Victoria
has worked on grand projects, too
– she helped Caroline Sieber
decorate her London townhouse
– but she will equally transform
a tiny nook of a country cottage.
Who can resist a wallpaper? There
are an embarrassment of rolls out
there making paint seem passé. But
for bespoke hand-painted designs
(right), it is DIANE HILL, formerly
chief designer at Fromental,
who can provide wall
decoration that is
as sumptuous as
it is finely realised.
From butterflies
to leaping
antelopes to heavy
hanging bowers of
fruit, Hill’s repertoire is
fuelled by her
imagination.
VH
TRIPLE DECOR
THE NEW DESIGNERS
Their clientele (which includes Modern Society
on Redchurch Street and the Continental Pantry
in Ledbury Road) is small but growing fast.
Their thing? “Mixing Kempton Park antiques
with Ikea or Conran, or anything really,” offers
Barker, “and combining rich, inky walls with
bright pops of colour to stop it looking goth.”
There is also a concept store in the works, on
Westbourne Grove. “Basically ‘concept’ means
a bit of everything – clothes, coffee, interiors,
jewellery, books…” says Barker. Wrey, meanwhile,
is keen on translating his saucy designs into
embroidery and tapestry. Hanging in the
studio are samples of his
silk bomber jackets,
available directly from
Trend Fayre, along
with exquisite “everyday”
diamond jewellery by
studio resident Kirsty
Pattison. “We’re guns for
hire,” smiles Hoyland,
“We’ll do anything as long
as it’s fun.” Christa D’Souza
neon Perspex. Vintage Dutch chandeliers.
Hand-printed wallpaper featuring bats,
bugs or any other design that takes your fancy. If
that appeals, check out Trend Fayre, the new
interiors collective founded by former set designer
Kiri Barker. A self-described hoarder, Barker
started up the Kensal Green-based business three
years ago to help first-time buyers “who were
asking their mothers for advice and therefore
ending up with flats that looked just like their
parents’ houses.” She was soon joined by Jack
Hoyland and Eddie Wrey – a former assistant to
MarioTestino – whose wallpaper patterns sprung
out of his obsessive doodling while revising for
his chemistry finals. “That basic hexagon shape
in organic chemistry, and the way it tessellates
out, has myriad design
possibilities,” says Wrey.
Don’t be fooled by the
pint-sized Barker’s penchant
for small denim shorts and
pigtails. As her army of
super-professional builders
would surely tell you, she
means business. “Oh, Kiri is
definitely a force of nature,”
Wrey and Hoyland attest.
THE DESIGN COLLECTIVE
Mix masters
Trend Fayre
(from left, Jack
Hoyland, Kiri
Barker and Eddie
Wrey) and their
interior for
Modern Society,
E2. Photograph:
Rick Morris
Pushinsky.
Sittings editor:
Julia Brenard
VOGUE’
S
AUTUMN
A
L M A N A
C
160
VOGUEview

LACHLANBAILEY;CRAIGMcDEAN
INTERACTIVE VOGUE EDITIONS
FOR iPHONE AND iPAD
OCTOBER ISSUE ON SALE NOW
OR INCLUDED WITH YOUR PRINT MAGAZINE SUBSCRIPTIONONLY £2.99
Vogue.co.uk/subscriptions

IN A NEW PERIOD FASHION
DRAMA, ONE ACTRESS STANDS
OUT – AND FOR HER TALENT,
NOT HER STRIKINGLY FAMILIAR
FACE, SAYS FIONA GOLFAR
you want to ignore it, but you just
can’t. It enters the room with her.
The straight, shoulder-length
pale blonde hair, the pellucid skin, the
wide-apart blue eyes, and that nose,
patrician, ﬂanked by wide cheekbones.
Mamie Gummer looks so like her
mother, Meryl Streep, that you have
to take a breath while acclimatising to
the familiarity of her face.
She’s very slim – a dancer’s body,
today wearing a pretty white lace
Zimmermann dress with a
pair of ﬂowery Balenciaga
sandals for our lunch at
the Maritime Hotel in
New York’s Meatpacking
district. She’s friendly,
funny, quick to laugh,
unguarded – surprisingly
so – and seems eminently
comfortable with herself.
If you’ve watched
interviews with Meryl
Streep you will know
that she has a sharp
sense of humour. Mamie shares that
quality. She’s entertaining, and doesn’t
so much tell a joke as catch the
humour in a moment and react to it.
So what could possibly make the
daughter of one of the most highly
acclaimed actors in the world want to
follow in her legendary
footsteps? Mamie’s
Damascene moment
came not watching her
own mother but rather
when she was 14 years
old and her parents
took her to the
celebrated production of Cabaret
directed by Sam Mendes – starring
another daughter of a famous actor,
the late Natasha Richardson. “I knew
Tasha a little bit,” she recalls, “and let’s
face it, she had a ‘mom’ and I had a
‘mom’… But when I saw her screaming
at the top of her lungs, belting out
those songs in this raspy voice,
emanating this spirit of ‘Well, fuck it,
I’m gonna live like Elsie’, I knew I had
to give this thing a shot.”
Mamie, 33, was raised in the small
town of Salisbury, Connecticut, in a
very non-showbiz environment. “It
certainly wasn’t like Bob de Niro was
always popping round for dinner,” she
laughs. The second of four children
to Meryl Streep and her sculptor
husband, Don Gummer, she’s not
the only sibling to have followed her
mother into the entertainment
Above, Gummer,
left, in the new
fashion drama
The Collection,
with Sarah Parish
NICKBRIGGS.MAMIEWEARSJEANS,CURRENTELLIOTT.STRIPEDTOP,GIGIBYTOMMYHILFIGER.
JEWELLERY,MAMIE’SOWN.HAIR:PAULMERRITT.MAKE-UP:NINAPARK.THANKSTOFIONABRESLIN
The
generation
GAME
Mamie Gummer,
photographed by
Kristina Loggia at
the Maritime Hotel,
New York. Sittings
editor: Fiona Golfar
163
VOGUEview

industry: Henry, 36, is a musician,
Grace, 30, is also an actress, and her
youngest sister, Louisa, 25, is a model.
A theatre major from Northwestern
University in Illinois, she was
dissuaded by her parents from going
to Juilliard (New York’s equivalent to
Rada), but she moved to the city aged
21 and started to look for work. “It
was hard in some ways,” she explains.
“Because of my background,I received
a lot of attention that I had to learn to
be comfortable with. I landed a great
job right off the bat in an off-
Broadway play called Mr Marmalade
opposite Michael C Hall.”
In it, Mamie played an emotionally
disturbed four-year-old to rapturous
reviews. (Variety described her 2005
performance as an “infectious livewire
presence”.) Since then, she has worked
steadily in the theatre, notably in
Rufus Norris’s production of Les
Liaisons Dangereuses three years later,
opposite Laura Linney and Ben
Daniels, where she met and married
fellow actor Benjamin Walker. The
couple separated in 2013.
mamie has also starred
in television shows,
most prominently in
the award-winning series The Good
Wife as the manipulative lawyer
Nancy Crozier. But it is the
forthcoming eight-part Amazon
Prime fashion drama The Collection
(Amazon’s first original British show)
that promises to catapult her into
the mainstream. Set in a couture
house in Paris in the Forties and
Fifties, The Collection is a big-budget
project made by the co-producers of
BBC1’s critically acclaimed War and
Peace, and unfolds during the city’s
emergence from Nazi occupation and
the ushering in of a new era. The
fashion is glorious, based on Dior
and the creation of the New Look,
and focuses on two brothers, Paul and
Claude Sabine (played by Richard
Coyle and Tom Riley), who between
them build a fashion empire riven
by family drama and professional
intrigue. Mamie plays Helen Sabine,
Paul’s beautiful American wife, with
an arresting stillness.Her performance
is utterly compelling. “Beauty has a
fraught relationship with the truth,”
Mamie confides over a glass of wine.
“It was challenging to disentangle
myself from all the costumes and try
and find the character in Helen.”
I get the sense that it is desperately
important for Mamie to believe in the
depth of the characters she plays, and
I wonder if the seemingly passive wife
of a controlling husband gets to have
much of a voice. “I fully intend that
she will have one,” exclaims Mamie,
over-bubbling with the force of her
feelings. “It is so important to me that
after spending six months shooting
in Swansea [where a painstaking
recreation of post-Second World War
Paris was constructed] we make
something authentic.”
The same word can be used to
describe Mamie herself. She possesses
very few of the guarded traits that
define many people who have been the
object of scrutiny, and talks happily
about things that are often deemed
“off-limits” by other public figures,
such as her apartment in nearby
Chelsea, which she loves. “I’m one of
three people I know who still live in the
city,” she admits wryly. “The rest of
my friends live in Brooklyn with their
families… It might bear mentioning
that everyone I know is coupled and
having kids, and I’m not! So although
it would be lovely to live in Brooklyn,
I think I’ll have to wait a bit longer.”
Yet Mamie is none too concerned
about not being in a domestic cocoon.
Indeed, she’s happily dating.
“Someone very nice and really quite
normal,” she laughs, before moving on
to how keen she is to continue
working in theatre. She lights up
when she talks about the production
of Ugly Lies the Bone by Lindsey
Ferrentino, in which she
recently starred, coming to
the National Theatre in
March. Her performance
as a severely wounded war
veteran trying to put her
life back together was
described by The New York
Times as “superb”.
“I strongly believe in
making my own future,”
she says.“I’ve been listening
to Beyoncé’s Lemonade,
which I love so much. And
that’s all about her finding
strength, which I think is
so important – for me, and
even for this country, for
Hillary [Clinton], for
women everywhere.”
It’s not only her mother’s
acting chops that Mamie
has inherited, but also her
passionate interest in the
politics of her business and
of her country. Like Meryl,
Mamie believes in opening
her mouth where she can
be heard and has been
public in her support of
equal pay for actors, and
vocal about her distaste
for politics of the Trump
variety. She admits she is
still finding the tools
to navigate the choppy
waters of showbusiness.
I wonder if she feels bound
not to make waves because
of the added burden of being
regarded as her mother’s daughter?
“Of course,” she sighs. “Yes, but she
also told me to believe in myself,
and I do. We never talk shop at home.
I don’t lay my worries at her door,
I fight my own battles.”
I don’t think Mamie Gummer needs
to carry anything to her mother’s
door. This talented and engaging
actress has everything she needs to
stand tall on her own two feet. Q
“The Collection” starts on Amazon Prime
on September 2
“I received a lot
attention that
I had to learn to
be comfortable
with,” says Mamie,
of starting out in
New York
KRISTINALOGGIA.MAMIEWEARSSHIRT,HUGOBOSS.JEANS,CURRENTELLIOTT
164
VOGUEview

TWIN SISTERS
CECILIE AMALIE
THEKOOPLES.COM

Above: the 2016
Vogue Talent
Contest winner
and finalists
outside Vogue
House. From
left, Kirsten
MacQuarrie, 25;
Emma McKinlay,
23; Radhika Seth
(and inset), 22;
Jasmine Kee, 23;
Ashley Clarke, 25;
Catriona Grew,
22; Helen Brown,
24; Hannah
Keegan, 20.
Finalist Valeria
Rodionova, 23, was
unable to attend
RADHIKA SETH, WINNER OF VOGUE’S
ANNUAL COMPETITION FOR YOUNG
WRITERS, IMPRESSED THE JUDGES WITH
THIS EVOCATIVE INTERVIEW WITH
DEBUT AUTHOR NANCY TUCKER
i
recognised Nancy Tucker by
her glasses. The photograph on
the inside jacket of her debut
novel, The Time in Between, shows
a young woman with a piercing
gaze wearing large horn-rimmed
spectacles. Her solemnity seemed
fitting for someone who had penned
a memoir at just 21.
But the girl rushing around the
station in search of me, wearing
those glasses, lacks the steeliness
I expected. In a shirtdress dotted
with tigers, her hair in schoolgirl
braids, she grins. “We know who’s
won the dress game today.” Her
laugh has a touch of self-deprecation
and she is sceptical of her fame.
When I mention the photo, she
nods in disbelief. “I was shocked
when they told me a photographer
would come to my house. I thought
I could just send them a snap of me
with my rabbit.”
Sitting in a crowded café, Nancy has
the dazed look of someone who has
tumbled down the rabbit hole into a
surreal world of literary success. When
the BBC requested an interview, she
says, “I got a text from them saying a
taxi would be waiting for me, and there
was a man holding a sign with my
name. It was euphoric, but I kept
thinking,‘I’m a child! How have I been
allowed into the real world?’”
Escaping her own “dystopian world”
was exactly her intention. Severely
anorexic from the age of 11, Nancy
describes writing the book as a way out
of her illness. The Time in Between was
the product of a three-day purge of
writing shortly after her 18th birthday.
“By this point I was so miserable that it
was a frenzy of words,” she says. The
surrealism of her experience is vividly
conveyed in the book,where she writes:
“I want to shine and I want to be
invisible… and in the end I think the
only solution is to get smaller and
smaller and then one day to disappear.”
Even the process of publication has
an air of unreality. Nancy sent an early
draft to a friend, who serendipitously
passed it on until it landed on an
agent’s desk. But the course of
publishing rarely runs so smooth.
After eight rejections her life crumbled.
“I don’t think anyone knows this,” she
begins hesitantly, “but I was coming
home on the Tube after a therapy
session and I remember thinking,
Winner 2016
TALENT
CONTEST
DARRENGERRISH
‘I should just end it.’ But as the train
turned into Ealing Broadway my
phone got a signal and I had an email
from Icon Books saying they wanted
to meet me.”
From then on, her life has been
something of a fairy tale. She recalls
a flurry of book signings (“I was so
confused. Do I sign my full name? Do
I ask their name?”) and being praised
by her childhood idol Jacqueline
Wilson. “That was the time I lost it!”
she beams across the table.Aged
12, she had written to Wilson
asking her to write about eating
disorders. “I saw her as a sort
of agony aunt.” What she didn’t
expect was a response from
Wilson that comforted her and
asked, “Have you thought of
writing that book?” Nancy has
it framed on her wall. Wilson
called The Time in Between an
“affecting work of literature”.
While many of Wilson’s
characters have troubled
relationships with food, other
representations of the illness are often
tinged with romanticism. I am
reminded of Cassie, the doe-eyed party
girl from the TV show Skins. When
I raise the point, Nancy laughs.“Wasn’t
it dreadful? And she had that ridiculous
voice! I know so many people who
modelled themselves after her.” For
her, Cassie epitomises everything toxic
about the media’s depiction of eating
disorders. “It was so sterile. They
painted her as a starving saint. She was
so clean, so blonde, so pale.” I notice
the resemblance between them, the
cheekbones and wispy hair, but Nancy
isn’t so drearily one-dimensional. This
hasn’t stopped interviewers from trying
to mould her in Cassie’s ethereal image.
Photos of Nancy in newspapers show
a startled girl in a pure white poloneck
with haunting blue eyes. The Nancy
in front of me groans in annoyance.
Recovery has been slow, but her
relationship with her therapist gives
her hope. “It was like love at first
sight,” she sighs. “It’s nourishing to
have someone so invested in you.” It
has shaped Nancy’s desire to become
a psychologist and write more about
mental health. “I don’t want people
to think I’m banging on about it, but
it interests me.” She cites the book
as a landmark in her recovery,
because “telling the story made my
world bigger and I’ve had so many
experiences because of it – the taxi
to the BBC obviously being the
pinnacle.” Something tells me there
are many more peaks to come. Q
WINNER
RADHIKA SETH
RUNNER-UP
ASHLEY CLARKE
166
VOGUEview

THEKOOPLES.COM
TWIN SISTERS
MIRANDA ELEKTRA

N E W
S E A S O N
Autumn/Winter 16
the
£99WOOL RICH COAT

SELECTED UK STORES ONLINE. SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. BLOUSE T434919, TROUSERS T596290W | JUMPER T386628, DRESS T422878 | COAT T490913, DRESS T422798, BOOTS T021880A
BLOUSE £27.50, TROUSERS £35 | JUMPER £25, DRESS £39.50 | COAT £99, DRESS £35, BOOTS £125

PAULBOWDEN.COMPILEDBYNAOMISMART
WHAT BETTER WAY TO BOLDLY STOMP
INTO THE NEW SEASON THAN WITH
AUTUMN’S UNAPOLOGETIC ALL-TERRAIN
LUG SOLES? IDEAL FOR THRILL-SEEKERS
ON THE HUNT FOR ADVENTURE
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP:
LEATHER, £850, LOUIS
VUITTON. LEATHER, £980,
PRADA. PYTHON AND
LEATHER, £740, MULBERRY
Cleats
PLEASE
173
VOGUEspy

LAURENCE DACADE
EMBROIDERED
WOOL, FROM £620
THIGHS and LOWSFROM OVER-THE-KNEE TO ANKLE BOOTS, FIND A HEMLINE TO MATCH
MICHAEL KORS
COLLECTION
LEATHER, £695
KG KURT
GEIGER
LEATHER,
£160
HAVVA
LEATHER, £300
CHLOE
SUEDE, £910
GIANVITO ROSSI
LEATHER, £965
PROENZA
SCHOULER
LEATHER, £800
SAINT
LAURENT
PONYSKIN,
£995
MARYAM
NASSIR ZADEH
LEATHER, £538, AT
MATCHESFASHION.
COM
FAUSTO PUGLISI
LEATHER, FROM £830,
AT SELFRIDGES
SLOUCH BOOT
+ BELOW-THE-
KNEE DRESS
Streamline Eighties swashbucklers
with neat over-the-knee hemlines that
not only cover boot tops, but lengthen
your silhouette, too
STUART
WEITZMAN
LEATHER,
£591
BALENCIAGA
LEATHER,
£1,195
VALENTINO
GARAVANI
LEATHER, £1,165
ANKLE BOOT
+ CROPPED
TAILORING
While the kick-flare and ankle-boot
combo still has mileage, consider
tailored slim-leg trousers with
autumn’s statement boots
AQUAZZURA
EMBELLISHED
VELVET, £930
BALENCIAGA
VALENTINO
LOUISVUITTON
CHLOE
JASONLLOYD-EVANS;MITCHELLSAMS;PIXELATE.BIZ
CHLOE
LEATHER,
£880
MID-CALF BOOT
+ VOLUMINOUS
MINIDRESS
A mid-calf boot can shorten
legs, so counteract by styling
with scale and proportion;
a billowing minidress makes
legs look slimmer
COMBAT BOOT
+ MIDI-LENGTH
EVENING DRESS
Dial down the decadence and partner a
sturdy combat boot with an evening gown
MAISON
MARGIELA
LEATHER,
FROM £765
175
VOGUEspy

STEP it up
INTRODUCING THE FOUR BIG NEW SHOE IDEAS
TO CATAPULT YOUR LOOK INTO NOW
PRETTY BALLERINAS
LEATHER, £229
CHURCH’S
RUBBER, £140
JOSEPH
LEATHER, £420
THE HYBRID
Whether it’s a brogue fused with a stiletto,
or one part slingback to one part ballet
pump – if you can describe your shoe in
one word, it just isn’t cutting it
THE CONE HEEL
The heel shape to note now – from
delicate and spindly to sturdier versions,
make sure it’s conical3
1
MARY KATRANTZOU
GIANVITO ROSSI
VELVET AND SATIN, £675
JW ANDERSON
CRYSTAL, LEATHER
AND SATIN, £1,390
DIOR
LEATHER AND
CROCODILE,
FROM £750
COURREGES
PATENT-LEATHER,
FROM £498
STELLA MCCARTNEY
FAUX-LEATHER, £400
CELINE
LEATHER,
FROM £530
MANSUR GAVRIEL
SUEDE, £345, AT
MATCHESFASHION.COM
VALENTINO
GARAVANI
LEATHER, £535
MIU MIU
BROCADE, £490
THE PUNKED BALLET PUMP
Via chains, rivets, buckles and strapping, ballet pumps have
developed an attitude. Just don’t call them sweet
THE WHITE
ANKLE BOOT
After the white stiletto, the white
chelsea boot will reawaken a palette
of autumn darks. Ideal with black,
grey, navy, tweed and denim – but
keep them clean and scuff-free
4Ece Sukan
wearing
Toga
ballet
pumps
JASONLLOYD-EVANS;PIXELATE.
BIZ;MODAOPERANDI
Leaf
Greener
in Céline
chelsea
boots
2
176
VOGUEspy

DOWNLOAD
WATCH OFFLINE
New episode every Friday
A M A Z O N O R I G I N A L
FROM THE PRODUCER OF
DESPERATE HOUSEWIVES AND PRETTY LITTLE LIARS

with
A new brand available exclusively at

A chic quilted jacket happily makes the
transition from the office on a Friday, straight
to a country bolthole for the weekend and
back to the city again on Monday morning
F T
PENELOPE
CHILVERS
PONYSKIN,
£369
ASOS.COM
COTTON
SHIRT, £35
FRAME
LEATHER
JEANS, £1,212,
AT MODA
OPERANDI.
COM
ZOE JORDAN
WOOL SWEATER,
£380, AT HARRODS
BARBARA
HULANICKI FOR
FRENCH SOLE
VELVET SNEAKERS,
£360
TAKE A HIKE
Tarmac or turf, these
upgraded hiking boots will
take you far
TOD’S
LEATHER,
£520
AQUAZZURA
SHEARLING, £760
TABITHA SIMMONS
LEATHER, £495
COURREGES
NYLON, FROM
£1,340
MONCLER
GOOSE DOWN, £575
WAREHOUSE
DENIM JEANS, £69
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
RIPSTOP
JACKET, £540
MCQ
LEATHER,
£995BLOW UP
Padded jackets return.
Turn the street star haute
and partner up with
black cigarette trousers
and heels after dark
BALENCIAGA
181
VOGUEspy
Emmanuelle
Alt

TRIPPIN’ OUT
Kate Moss on Amilla Fushi. Florence Welch on Chateau Marmont. Sebastian Faulks
on Ceylon Tea Trails. Beth Ditto on Ace Hotel Portland. Sir Paul Smith on Claridge’s.
Kate Winslet on Eilean Shona. Cara Delevingne on Parrot Cay, and more.
PRE-ORDER NOW AT ASSOULINE.COM/CHICSTAYS
CHIC STAYS: CONDÉ NAST TRAVELLER’S
FAVOURITE PEOPLE ON THEIR FAVOURITE PLACES
BUY NOW
£55

LK BENNETT
SILK DRESS,
£425
MARNI
CRYSTAL
BROOCH,
£190
SUNDAY PUB LUNCH
A sheepskin coat allows for a more lightweight
approach underneath. Pair with a linen prairie
dress for weekend ease
TIBI
ASYMMETRIC
DRESS, £805
LOEWE
WOOL-MIX
CARDIGAN,
£925
GOLDEN GOOSE
LEATHER BELT, £245
SUPPER CLUB
A cosy Aran knit can easily run into evening
when partnered with opulent brocade and
crystal-encrusted satin heels
MIU MIU
DENIM AND VELVET
JACKET, £1,425
LANDS’ END
WOOL/CASHMERE
SWEATER, £100
THE ROW
VELVET BAG,
£720, AT
MATCHES
FASHION.COM
MANOLO BLAHNIK
SATIN AND CRYSTAL
MULES, £815
LIMITED
EDITION
JACQUARD
SKIRT, £45,
AT MARKS
SPENCER
WEEKENDER
Combine traditional
houndstooth checks and
sweet piecrust collars with
embellished trimmings for
a true heritage remix
CH CAROLINA
HERRERA
WOOL TROUSERS,
£350
ROSETTA GETTY
WOOL SWEATER,
£780, AT MODA
OPERANDI.COM
MES DEMOISELLES
WAXED-COTTON
COAT, £340
ZANA BAYNE
LEATHER BELT,
FROM £565
EUGENIA KIM
VELVET HAIRBAND,
FROM £70
MIUMIU
183
VOGUEspy
SANDRO
PATENT-
LEATHER
BOOTS,
£450
HILFIGER
COLLECTION
SHEARLING
COAT, £2,500
SANDRO
COTTON
BLOUSE,
£175
ANYA HINDMARCH
VELVET CROSS-
BODY BAG, £550

GREAT outdoorsCLASSIC BOOTS AND BAGS ARE NOW
TRICKED OUT WITH ADDED EXTRAS, TURNING
THE ORDINARY EXTRAORDINARY
LONGCHAMP
SHEEPSKIN, LEATHER
AND RABBIT TOTE, £550
GUCCI
ELASTICATED BELT, £220
MARC JACOBS
LEATHER BAG, £1,800
HERMES
LEATHER BOOTS, £1,110
LARSSON JENNINGS
WATCH, £215
FURLA
SHEEPSKIN BAG, £525
PRADA
LEATHER BAG, £1,630. AGENDA,
£380. CHARMS, FROM £180 EACH
CHANEL
LEATHER BOOTS, £1,300
CESARE PACIOTTI
LEATHER BOOTS, £675
PIXELATE.BIZ
184
VOGUEspy

TAILORED TRACK
How to take summer’s
sportswear trend into winter?
Zip a track top all the way up
and layer under a mannish coat
LUMBERJACK PIMPED
Elevate a favourite lumberjack shirt with an
assortment of shoulder-skimming earrings
READY TO RAMBLE
From countryside to coastline to
city, Gabriela Hearst’s padded gilet
covers every eventuality. Partner up
with autumn’s stirrup trousers
GABRIELA
HEARST
GILET, £740
VERSACE
STRETCH-WOOL
TROUSERS, £580
DAUGHTER
DONEGAL
SWEATER, £245
UGG
LEATHER
BOOTS, £100
GOLDEN GOOSE
SATIN JACKET, £695
GANNI
JERSEY AND LACE
JACKET, £180, AT
NET-A-PORTER.COM
ANNIE COSTELLO BROWN
PATINA BRASS EARRINGS,
£195, AT LIBERTY
OF RARE
ORIGIN
MALACHITE,
LAPIS AND
CORAL
EARRINGS,
FROM £860
REBECCA DE
RAVENEL
CORD EARRINGS,
£264, AT MODA
OPERANDI.COM
JASONLLOYD-EVANS;PIXELATE.BIZ
RAEY
WOOL COAT,
£795, AT MATCHES
FASHION.COM
CURRENT ELLIOTT
COTTON SHIRT, £230
186
VOGUEspy
Ece Sukan

MCQ
SILK AND
LACE SLIP
DRESS,
£665
HOMESPUN
Channel The Good Life
(less Margo, more Barbara)
and embrace colourful country
cords and chunky knits
SLIP OF A THING
When a slip dress with tights seems
too prissy, go a grungier route and
layer over blue jeans instead
PRINGLE OF
SCOTLAND
HAND-
KNITTED
WOOL
SWEATER,
£995
STELLA MCCARTNEY
FAUX-LEATHER BELT, £240,
AT NET-A-PORTER.COM
URBAN OUTFITTERS
VELVET SLIP DRESS, £79
TABULA RASA
CROCHET DRESS,
£835, AT MATCHES
FASHION.COM
PAUL JOE
CORDUROY
TROUSERS, £190, AT
AMAZON FASHION
CURRENT ELLIOTT
WOOL-MIX SWEATER, £280
ISABELMARANT
PAIGE
CROPPED
JEANS, £259,
AT SELFRIDGES
JASONLLOYD-EVANS;MITCHELLSAMS;PIXELATE.BIZ;GETTY
JOSEPH
WOOL
POLONECK, £595
188
VOGUEspy
Felicity
Kendal in
The Good Life

THIS MESMERISING GEMSTONE
HAS BEEN PROMOTED TO
PROMINENCE FOR AUTUMN
OPALoffice
O
pals are intensely distracting. Their
prismatic qualities fire off rainbow-
coloured optical illusions. Now you see
red, pink and yellow – until purple and
green suddenly catch your eye. (The odd
thing about black opals is that they shine
bright with a predominately blue shade.)
David Morris’s butterfly brooches fly
with wings of midnight blue, while the
jeweller’s milky-white rings flash with
pinks, blues and greens. Pink opals cut by
de Grisogono are shaped into modernist
tubular earrings, while at Boghossian they are inlaid
with pink sapphires. Just one thing: discard old
notions about bad luck; opals are set to disrupt
autumn – in wholly good ways. CW
TIFFANY
OPAL AND
DIAMOND
PENDANT
NECKLACE,
£85,500
DAVID MORRIS
OPAL AND DIAMOND
BROOCH, PRICE ON
REQUEST
VENYX OPAL,
CHALCEDONY,
TOPAZ AND GARNET
RING, £2,950
DIOR JOAILLERIE
OPAL, DIAMOND, GARNET,
SPINEL AND RUBY RING,
PRICE ON REQUEST
DE
GRISOGONO
PINK-OPAL
AND PINK-
SAPPHIRE
EARRINGS,
£25,400
SUTRA
OPAL, DIAMOND
AND SAPPHIRE
NECKLACE,
£105,000, AT
HARRODS
THEO FENNELL
OPAL, DIAMOND
AND YELLOW-
SAPPHIRE RING,
£32,000
BOODLES
OPAL AND
DIAMOND
NECKLACE,
PRICE ON
REQUEST
BOGHOSSIAN
PINK-OPAL AND
PINK-SAPPHIRE RING,
PRICE ON REQUEST
DAVID MORRIS
PINK-OPAL,
DIAMOND AND
SAPPHIRE RING,
PRICE ON
REQUEST
PAOLOROVERSI
CHOPARD
OPAL AND
DIAMOND RING,
PRICE ON REQUEST
VAN CLEEF ARPELS
OPAL, DIAMOND AND PEARL
CLIP, PRICE ON REQUEST
195
VOGUEspy

KAIZFENG;JASONLLOYD-EVANS;MITCHELLSAMS
NAVY AND MIDNIGHT ARE THE SHADES TO WATCH
BLUE in
the FACE
i
s there anyone out there who doesn’t like blue? After all,
there’s bountiful choice from what’s arguably the broadest
spectrum on the primary-colour chart, from palest
duck egg to electric paraíba, Prussian, turquoise and
beyond. When it comes to watches, think of a
colour, then look for the details you prefer. That
could be a textured leather strap or a Cartier
tourbillon movement, a smattering of diamonds
around the bezel or buckle, or even beautifully
wrought enamel and mother-of-pearl dials at
Van Cleef Arpels and Bulgari. These are
stories of perpetual motion in blue. CW
CHANEL
FINE
JEWELLERY
DIAMOND
SET, £16,500
GRAFF
SAPPHIRE
SET, PRICE
ON REQUEST
TAG HEUER
DIAMOND SET, £3,050
TIFFANY
DIAMOND
AND
SAPPHIRE,
£122,000
SWAROVSKI
CRYSTAL SET,
£199
BULGARI
DIAMOND AND
MOTHER-OF-
PEARL, PRICE
ON REQUEST
LINKS OF LONDON
STEEL, £295
VAN CLEEF ARPELS
DIAMOND AND
SAPPHIRE, £123,400
LOUIS
VUITTON
DIAMOND
SET, £90,000
CARTIER
DIAMOND
AND
SAPPHIRE,
PRICE ON
REQUEST
PATEK
PHILIPPE
DIAMOND
SET, £28,340
CELINE
LOUISVUITTON
JAEGER-LE COULTRE
DIAMOND SET, £8,650
HERMES
DIAMOND
AND LAPIS
LAZULI,
£11,750
196
VOGUEspy

Vogue uk october_2016

Empfohlen

Empfohlen

Weitere ähnliche Inhalte

Was ist angesagt?

Was ist angesagt? (20)

Andere mochten auch

Andere mochten auch (20)

Ähnlich wie Vogue uk october_2016

Ähnlich wie Vogue uk october_2016 (20)

Mehr von PrivetOUTLET

Mehr von PrivetOUTLET (20)

Kürzlich hochgeladen

Kürzlich hochgeladen (20)

Vogue uk october_2016