1. Chapter 20
Objective: To emphasize the client’s
most attractive facial features while
minimizing those features that are
less attractive
2. Objective
Varies from client to client
Based on face shape analysis and client’s
individual needs
Consider face structure, eye color, skin and
hair, client’s wants and the results you can
realistically achieve
3. Foundations
Foundation
evens skin tone and color
conceals minor imperfections of the skin
protects the skin from climate, dirt and debris
Available in liquid, stick, cream-to-powder,
and tinted moisturizer.
4. Chemistry
Cream
predominantly water, mineral oil, stearic acid,
cetyl alcohol, propylene glycol,
triethanolamine, lanolin derivatives, borax and
insoluble pigments
Generally suited for dry to normal skin and
give medium to full coverage
5. Chemistry
Liquid
Suspensions of organic and inorganic pigments
in alcohol and water-based solutions
Generally suited for clients with oily to
normal skin conditions and sheer to medium
coverage.
7. Chemistry
Cream - to - powder
Moist on application but dries to a powdery
finish
8. Using Foundation
Skin tone determines the selection of
foundation color
warm : yellow, orange, or
red-orange
cool : blue, blue-green
(olive), or blue-red (pink)
neutral : equal amounts of warm and cool tones
9. Selection
Match as closely to actual skin
tone
If too light, it will have a chalky
or gray appearance
If too dark, it will look dirty or muddy.
Determine correct foundation color
applying a stripe of color to clean skin on the jaw line
blend slightly
color that “disappears” on the skin is the correct tone
10. Concealers
Used to cover blemishes and discoloration.
Available in pots, pencils, wands and
tubes/sticks.
chemistry: composition is similar to cream
foundations
using concealer : removed from container w/a
spatula and applied w/a concealer brush or
sponge. Match color to skin as closely as
possible
11. Face Powder
Fine cosmetic powder, used to add a matte
or dull finish to the face
Improves attractiveness of the skin by
enhancing the skin’s natural color, helping
to conceal minor blemishes and
discoloration's
Toning down excessive color and shine
Also used to set the foundation
12. Face Powder
Chemistry
loose powder & pressed powder have the same
basic composition
pressed powders are compressed & held
together w/ binders
ingredients include talc, zinc oxide, titanium
dioxide, kaolin, chalk, zinc stearate, &
magnesium sterate
13. Face Powder
Using Face Powder
available in a variety of tints, shades &
different weights
light & medium weights are best for dry to
normal skin
heavier weight is effective on normal to oily
skin
should match natural skin tone & work well
w/foundation
14. Cheek Color
Also called blush, blusher or rouge
cream or powder cosmetic used to color the
cheeks & skin beneath the cheekbones
creates more attractive facial contours
15. Cheek Color
Chemistry
is compact or pressed powder w/ coloring
added
Oil based cream cheek color
combinations of pigments in an oil or fat base
blends of waxes and oily liquids create a water-
resistant product
16. Cheek Color
Using cheek color
liquid - blends well & suitable for all skin types
apply w/ a facial sponge
Cream or gel
resemble cream foundation & preferred for dry
& normal skin
applied w/ a facial sponge
17. Cheek Color
dry ( pressed )
imparts a matte finish & is the most widely
used
applied w/ a brush or cotton puff
loose
variety of shades & tints
used to add color to contour the cheeks
applied w/ a facial puff
18. Cheek Color
General rules for application
apply cheek color where natural color would
normally appear in cheeks
do not apply the color in toward the nose
beyond the center of the eye
keep color above the horizontal line at the tip of
the nose
19. Cheek Color
do not extend color above the outer corner of
the eye
do not apply color in a bright, round circle
blend the color so that it fades softly into the
foundation
20. Lip Color
Also called lipstick or gloss
A cosmetic in paste form, available in a
variety of colors
Used to enhance or correct the shape of the
lips
Some contain sunscreen, others contain
moisturizers
21. Lip Color
Chemistry
available in variety of forms
cream, glosses, pencils, gels & sticks
all are formulas of oils, waxes & dyes
castor oil is the primary ingredient
others use olive, mineral, sesame, cocoa butter,
petroleum lecithin & hydrogenated vegetable oils
22. Lip Color
Using Lip Color
consider client’s preferences, eye color, skin
tone & lip shape
do not apply directly from container, unless it
belongs to the client
use a spatula to remove the lip color from the
container & take it from the spatula w/ a
disposable lip brush
23. Lip Liner
Used to outline the lips
Also helps keep lip color from feathering
Coordinate lip liner w/ chosen lip color
Sharpen the lip liner & sanitize the
sharpener before every use
24. Eye Shadow
Applied on the eyelids to accentuate or
contour them
Available in almost every color & in a
variety of finishes
metallic, matte, frost, shimmer or dewy
25. Eye Shadow
Chemistry
cream shadows
water based w/ oil, petrolatum, thickener, wax,
perfume, preservatives & color added
powder shadow
composed much the same as pressed face powder &
powdered cheek color
26. Eye Shadow
Using eye shadow
makes eyes appear brighter & more expressive
darker shade eye color makes the natural color
of the iris appear lighter
lighter shade makes the iris appear deeper
make-up colors should enhance the client’s eyes
27. Eye Shadow
Forms
stick, cream, pressed & dry powder form
Colors
highlight color
lighter that client’s skin tone & may have any finish
highlight a specific area such as brow bone
lighter color will make an area appear larger
28. Eye Shadow
Base color
medium tone that is close to client’s skin tone
used to even skin tone on the eye
applied all over lid & brow bone before other colors are
applied
Contour color
deeper & darker than client’s skin tone
applied to minimize specific area, to create contour in
crease or define eyelash line
29. Eyeliner
Used to outline & emphasize eye
available in pencil, liquid, pressed (cake ) or
felt tip pen
make eyes appear larger & lashes fuller
Chemistry
consist of wax ( paraffin ) or hardened oil base (
petrolatum ) w/ variety of additives to create
color
30. Eyeliner
CAUTION: According to the American
Medical Association, eye pencils should not
be used to color the inner rim of the eyes,
because this can lead to infection of the tear
duct, causing tearing, blurring of vision &
permanent pigmentation of the mucous
membrane lining the inside of the eye
31. Eyeliner
Using eyeliner
be cautious when applying
have steady hand
sharpen eyeliner & sanitize the sharpener
before each use
32. Eyebrow Color
Eyebrow pencils or shadows used to add
color & shape to the eyebrows
Can darken the eyebrows
fill in sparse areas
correct misshapen brows
33. Eyebrow Color
Using eyebrow color
sharpen pencil & sanitize sharpener before each
use
34. Mascara
Used to darken, define & thicken eyelashes
Available in liquid, cake & cream form
Enhances natural lashes, making them
appear thicker & longer
Lashes should be darker than the eyebrows
35. Mascara
Chemistry
polymer products that include water, wax,
thickeners, film-formers & preservatives in
their formulation
pigments are carbon black, carmine,
ultramarine, chromium oxide, & iron oxides
some contain rayon or nylon fibers to
lengthen& thicken hair fibers
36. Mascara
Using mascara
may be use on all lashes from the inner to outer
corners
dispose of the wand
never double-dip
37. Other Cosmetics
Eye makeup removers
oil-based or water based used to remove make-
up
Grease paint
heavy makeup used for theatrical purposes
38. Other Cosmetics
Cake or pancake makeup
shaped, solid mass applied to face w/ moistened
cosmetic sponge
good coverage
covers scars & pigmentation defects
40. Summary
Makeup has a magical
quality that speaks to both
the cosmetologist and the
client
When applying makeup,
you must take into
consideration the structure
of the face; the color of the
eyes, skin & hair; how the
client wants to look;& the
results you can realistically
achieve