1. IT Applications in Apparel Industry
Manoj Tiwari1
and Enquzer Getachew2
1. Full Name: Manoj Tiwari
Affiliation: Associate Professor, Department of Fashion Technology, National Institute of
Fashion Technology (NIFT), India
Email: manojtiwari1881@gmail.com
2. Full Name: Enquzer Getachew
Affiliation: Expert-Garment Technology Directorate, Ethiopian Textile Industry Development
Institute (ETIDI), Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
Email: enquzer@yahoo.co.uk
Abstract - In the recent years competitiveness and complexity has increased multi-fold in the
apparel industry. Service providers have to meet the consumer needs as and when required to
gain the “Competitive advantage”. This has established a need for solutions which aim for time
and efforts saving, resulting into improved operational efficiency and effectiveness. Here
technological advancements and its applications play a decisive role. Computer applications in
CAD and ERP etc. have been used since years but with a limited scope. With the time,
Information Technology (IT) applications have taken a quantum jump and we witness a number
of areas where IT has proved to be a game changer. And it has evolved as a key operational
constituent to the entire apparel supply chain. IT has opened new horizons by seamless linking
of different aspects of apparel business right from fashion forecasting to product development to
delivering the right product to consumer at right time. Consumer has come closer to the service
providers and supply chains are virtually shrinking and becoming quick to response.
In this paper authors discuss a number of such major IT based technical interventions which
have revolutionized the apparel manufacturing business globally.
Key words: 3-D Scanning, 3-D simulation- Virtual fit, Digital Printing, Real Time Data
Monitoring, RFID, Computer Color Management, Product life Cycle Management (PLM)
Corresponding author-
Manoj Tiwari, Team Leader-Garment Technology
ETIDI-NIFT Twinning Arrangement,
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute (ETIDI),
Akaki Kaliti Sub City, Woreda 5, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
E-mail- manojtiwari1881@gmail.com
Mobile Number- 00251-934966509

2. IT Applications in Apparel Industry
Abstract - In the recent years competitiveness and complexity has increased multi-fold in the
apparel industry. Service providers have to meet the consumer needs as and when required to
gain the “Competitive advantage”. This has established a need for solutions which aim for time
and efforts saving, resulting into improved operational efficiency and effectiveness. Here
technological advancements and its applications play a decisive role. Computer applications in
CAD and ERP etc. have been used since years but with a limited scope. With the time,
Information Technology (IT) applications have taken a quantum jump and we witness a number
of areas where IT has proved to be a game changer. And it has evolved as a key operational
constituent to the entire apparel supply chain. IT has opened new horizons by seamless linking
of different aspects of apparel business right from fashion forecasting to product development to
delivering the right product to consumer at right time. Consumer has come closer to the service
providers and supply chains are virtually shrinking and becoming quick to response.
In this paper authors discuss a number of such major IT based technical interventions which
have revolutionized the apparel manufacturing business globally.
Key words: 3-D Scanning, 3-D simulation- Virtual fit, Digital Printing, Real Time Data
Monitoring, RFID, Computer Color Management, Product life Cycle Management (PLM)
Introduction - A lot of water has flown in the river Nile since 1943 when the Chairman of IBM
Mr. Thomas Watson predicted that world market would be only for five computers. And today its
needless to say that this prediction was utterly wrong. Computers and Information technology
(IT) have not only changed but revolutionized our lives in a manner which was never thought of.
IT has become an integral part of life and there is no area left without a visible influence of IT.
The same is true with apparel industry also.
In the era of fast changing fashion business, where consumer is demanding products and
services as and when required. Product life cycles are shrinking everyday and so the business
dynamics and competition too. The successful survival depends on how fast and how well one
can respond by maintain operating cost minimum. With the each passing year the global
competition has grown multi-fold resulting in ever high pressure to perform better, faster, in
more economic manner and with improved quality standards. Since years, computers have
been used in apparel manufacturing units to enhance the performance, error proofing, reduce

3. throughput time, efforts and manpower saving. In the recent years IT and its applications have
become much wider in scope than merely using computers. IT has evolved as a key operational
constituent of apparel manufacturing1
.
IT applications in apparel industry have a visible impact be it the area of fashion forecasting and
new product development, mass manufacturing of goods or delivering the right product to
consumers at right time. The new technologies are enabling the mass customization profitable
and companies are able to seize the customer loyalty, increase revenue and competitive edge2
.
IT applications have been quite useful in productivity improvement, effective resource utilization,
quick response to customer needs by precise identification of requirements and value creation
to the consumers3
.
The paper discusses some major IT based tools and techniques which are redefining the
approaches and leading to quick response apparel supply chains.
Apparel supply chains and Information technology - In the recent years fashion industry has
become much more dynamic and fashion cycles are becoming shorter. The time between
identifying the trends to the product delivery to the final consumer is shrinking to meet
requirements of fast fashion4
. The competition has shifted from “Company vs. Company” to
“Supply chain vs. Supply chain”, and the key focus is on the technologies which can boost the
supply chain performance5
.
With the increased use of technology (specially information technology) with digital environment,
the consumers are expecting services anywhere and at any time. The brands are being judged
by their ability to deliver and offer the high level of value in the product or services which is
synchronized with the consumer expectations6
.
To gain the competitive advantage, it's very important to gauge the customer requirement
before product development. Reduction in product development time results into the faster
delivery to the consumer. Use of technology coupled with information is the key to success
which results into slashed product development time, eliminating tooling costs and simplifying
the production process7
. The textile chain starts with fibre manufacturing, development of yarns
& fabrics, apparel manufacturing and finally distribution of the product to consumers by retailers.
Market demands are highly volatile with significant product variations. Considering the dynamic

4. nature of fashion and to eliminate the opportunity cost, goods need to be replenished frequently
as delivery volumes are rigidly coupled to actual end consumer demand8
. Speed to market,
product development, tight pricing and productivity are four primary points for success to any
company. This has led to an autonomous control coupled with IT interventions at almost all the
levels of apparel supply chain right from fashion forecasting to the delivery of finished products
to the consumers.
A number of IT solutions are being used at different levels to improve efficiencies, effectiveness
with improved transparency. IT enabled fashion forecasting tools, 3-D simulations and designing
tools, digital printing using computer colour management (CCM) while product development,
enterprise resource planning (ERP) and real time data monitoring using radio frequency
identification (RFID) while manufacturing and Product lifecycle management (PLM) are some of
such important tools.
Areas of Information technology interventions in Apparel chain
 Fashion forecasting - As stated earlier, fashion cycles are becoming shorter, fashion
business observes 10 to 12 collections per years9
. It clearly indicates that consumer
demands need to be understood well and before the competitors do it. And as a result right
product needs to be available to the consumer within weeks. IT plays a critical role in
knowing the market indications and future trends4
. For example designers have easy access
to the international trends and other fashion world activities using trend portals on internet.
This saves a lot of money and time consumed while travelling to different parts of the world1
.
They can put up their work (such as product sketches and other material designs), ideas
and discuss with other experts of the field from the office itself with help of IT.
Some of such fashion forecasting solutions are provided by Graphic Exchange, Worth
Global Style Network (WGSN), Trend Stop, Pecler Paris and Carlin Groupe etc.
 New Product Development - The new product development is subsequently done after the
fashion forecasting. It involves a number of activities to be done by the designers and
product developers. Some of the key activities are concept development, layouts,
storyboards, development of sketches and color combinations etc. Use of IT tools in product
development has reduced the cost and time considerably. It is possible to visualize how the
product will look while it's being used by the consumer. The new generation IT based design

5. solutions offer a significant amount of freedom and flexibility for virtual design modification
by quick and easy manipulations, alterations and interchanging of components10
.
3-D simulation - 3-D designing and simulation using IT tools has established itself as an
integral part of new product development. Earlier it was used in the fields of aeronautics,
defence and furniture but slowly yet steadily it has gained acceptance in fashion design and
resulted in terms of cost reduction, enhanced creativity and improved communication11
.
In earlier days the technology was used for visualization purpose only. With the time
technology has grown in scope and now capable of performing complete simulations and
able to provide the fit solutions in a completely virtual environment.
Fit issues present a real challenge to the designers and product developers. It's always a
difficult task to meet the fit requirements of customer in the sample. As traditional practice,
samples need to be developed and to be sent to the customer for fit approvals. And based
on the comments received from the customer fit needs to be improved. This is a quite
cumbersome, expensive and time consuming process. It is observed that a single prototype
can cost between USD 250 to USD 1000 and its costs even more when designing and
development cost are included. Further the cost goes higher with each rejection of the
prototype11
. IT enabled 3-D simulation offers much simpler and cost effective solutions
where physical developments of prototypes can be eliminated or significantly controlled
resulting in time, effort and resource saving.
Virtual Avatars can be developed using 3-D body scans. Garment designs with required fit
and fall can be simulated by incorporating the fabric properties (such as weave, color and
drape etc.) and pattern properties. This completely eliminates the process of fabric
development, cutting and stitching of sample12
. At the same time, all the modifications also
can be done virtually and re-simulations can be done as required referring to the customer's
comments. This results in huge time saving in sample modification and gives quick yet
accurate results.
As further advancement to 3-D simulation, the Avatars are now even dynamic in nature,
means the simulation can be done in different postures such as walking, bending etc. These

6. Avatars are enabling a garment to be virtually reviewed, refined and measured before the
first piece is ever cut physically.
Tim, 10 is such an advance parametric Avatar by OptiTex which is a ten year-old avatar,
who has the potential to grow up to 18 years old. Designers are able to change the size and
dimensions of one or more body parts, such as dynamic shoulder pads to fill in and varied
slopes of such Avatars at the same time12
. Other such other Avatars are Adam for male, Eve
for female, Jasmine for young girl and a baby avatar too13
. This helps in bridging the gap
between virtual environment and the real scenario and many of the new generation Avatars
are even capable of doing catwalk which makes even virtual fashion show a reality.
With the help of information technology, development of prototype in virtual environment has
become must faster and accurate. There are two basic ways currently being practised, in the
first one pattern developer creates 2-D pattern considering the fabric properties and garment
requirements. Then the patterns are tried on the virtual model. The software programme
shows the areas of stretch on 3-D virtual model like a thermal image. Modification in the 2-D
pattern are suggested by the software accordingly. The other way is where the developer
manually draws where the lines go on the 3-D model (similar like development of pattern
using traditional draping method) and software suggests the 2-D pattern. However the latter
method is suitable for close fitting garments only4
.
Considering the amount of time spent by consumers (specially young consumers) on-line
using internet, the idea of developing “virtual communities” has also become realistic. Now
individuals can create their virtual identities (Avatars) using 3-D body scans and can interact
online and experience virtual try-on by putting the required designs and color combinations
on their avatars. The requirement, tried on avatars can be sent online to initiate further
business activity14
.
Some of the global leaders providing 3-D simulation solutions are, OptiTex, Lectra, [TC]2
,
and TukaTech etc.
Virtual prints development - Such solutions are extremely useful to get faster
results and it save a significant amount of time as prints are developed virtually on computer
screen. The designers can create their own fabrics as well as prints covering a wide range
of fabrics including knits and woven. Designers can also use scanned images of other fabric

7. swatches and can work on further modification and developments as required by customers.
Such solutions also enable designers to check the drape of fabrics by changing the structure
on the computer screen itself10
.
Some of the major player providing such solutions are, Fashion Studio by Blue Fox
Nedgraphics, Vision Fashion Studio by Gerber, Prima Vision by Lectra and Tex-Design by
Koppermann etc.
Digital printing and Computer colour management - This is one another notable
technological development which is making a difference in the product development process
by offering a significant flexibility in the printing process with faster results of product
development. This technique offers printing of almost unlimited number of shades on paper
and textile materials with excellent resolution and fastness. Digital printers may be
compatible with the CAD textile design and may take print command direct from the
designer’s workplace10
. Such techniques (which are based on dye sublimation or direct dye
sublimation) are quite useful for smaller runs and result in huge time saving as traditional
approach of developing screen is eliminated completely. At the same time, digital printing is
eco-friendly too, where usage of chemicals and water is almost zero and waste treatment is
not required15
. Instead of going through a time consuming process of printed sample
development following the traditional approach one can easily get the fabric digitally printed
in the required texture. And the same may be cut and stitched further and may be sent for
buyer approval instantly1
.
Some of the major global players in digital printing solutions are Mimaki, Dupont, Encad
from Kodak, Reggiani and Lectra etc.
Computer colour management (CCM) is used for colour approvals digitally. It’s an
alternative of developing physical samples and sending these swatches to buyers for
approvals. Rather the colour shades are sent digitally in scanned form under a specified
light. The shade matching is done with reference to the delta value of the particular shade of
the reference original sample10
. This electronic exchange, results into faster and accurate
results. It also ensures the objective results by eliminating the subjectivity of manual
judgement1
.
Some of the key global players in CCM are Datacolour, Clariant and OCX from eWarna etc.

8.  ERP - Operational complexity has increased with the growth of business and competition.
This has resulted into increased dependency on technology. At the same time tasks need to
be finished in lesser time with improved transparency. In order to make the process accurate
and faster, need of real time updates with minimum human efforts has emerged. Time has
become one of the most important deciding factor for business success16
. This makes the
organizations more competitive and result oriented by minimising the errors and keeping
management updated. This has led to use IT solutions which are capable of seamless
linking of all the facets of apparel business. This linking is not only limited to the process of
apparel manufacturing but also connects suppliers, suppliers’ suppliers, customers (inter
and intra), human resource, sales & marketing, and logistics1
. Enterprise Resource Planning
(ERP) solutions are providing much needed support in accelerating the process. Specially in
context of apparel business ERP has proved as a great helping tool in areas like, Process
planning & control, inventory management, finance and human resource management10
.
Some other notable benefits of ERP solutions are reduction or elimination of data
redundancy, improved transparency through real time data sharing to all relevant
departments and personnel, deadline alerts for key activities, customized reports, effective
tracking and planning of WIP and improved load distribution and monitoring.
Some of the major ERP solution providers are SAP, Oracle, Datatex, Fastreact and REACH
etc.
 Product data management (PDM) and product lifecycle management (PLM) - As
mentioned earlier, fashion supply chains are much more dynamic compared to other
businesses. In any given apparel organization or fashion house a number of activities go on
simultaneously including a number of steps in each process. Each process may include a
number of agencies at different locations. This presents a real complex situation and a
challenge to keep a close eye on happenings9
. Many a times such complex environment
leads to errors and delays in-case any activity is missed out or not handled properly. This
may result into business failure and revenue loss also. These IT based solutions are
capable of improving the efficiency and effectiveness in the process10
. Product data
management aims towards eliminating manual data handling, maintaining files and keeping
history of updates, changes, modification in the process. PDM is nothing but an IT based
data recording tool used to maintain all the information related to merchandise in a
chronological order. The product lifecycle management (PLM) may be considered as
advanced version of PDM. PLM is a strategic approach for a collaborative product data

9. definition and management covering the entire product lifecycle. It offers a platform for
seamless exchange of information and transactions. It creates a value chain by integrating
designers, planners, product developers, manufacturer as well as buyers9,10
.
Some key PLM solution providers are Lectra, Tuka Tech, Gerber, Assyst, WFX (World
Fashion Exchange) and Blue Fox etc.
 Real time data monitoring using RFID - Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) is an
automatic identification method which falls under category of Automatic Identification and
Mobility (AIM). It is used for identification, tracking , data retrieving and storing remotely by
using RFID tags, reader and a software18
. Apparel manufacturing involves a number of
variable factors such as product variations, material diversity and most important high level
of human intervention. This makes the data visibility difficult to the management22
. Many of
the times it becomes very difficult to take right decision due to unavailability of the most
updated correct information. Use of RFID based solutions make the real time data available
at each point of transaction. And the same is done instantly and communicated. This makes
all concerned people updated on the latest happenings and status of the activity at any point
of time23
.
RFID is equally useful to the retailers also as the merchandise can be tracked automatically
from manufacturer to the consumer covering the entire supply chain. By overcoming with the
initial hiccups and concerns over privacy of consumers, RFID is getting acceptance in
apparel industry19,20
. Textile and apparel industry is getting benefitted from RFID in several
ways including better production management through effective control on WIP and idle
time, higher visibility through real time updates and anti-counterfeiting. Many of the big
retailers have already started using RFID technology and have made it mandatory to use
RFID by their apparel manufacturers across the globe21
. This results into real time update of
inventory and timely replenishment of goods19
. Access to the real time information using
RFID increases on-shelf availability of goods and improved customer service. This results
into increased revenue to the retailer20
.
Some major Real time data solution providers are G-Pro, Sabre Technologies, Fire Fox
Technologies, Leadtec, Proman and igarment etc.

10. Conclusion - The increased intervention of Information technology in our lives has created the
concept of “on-demand” marketing. An increased use of technology is re-writing the definition of
consumer experience17
. The generation that has grown up with internet and have all latest
information is going to boost such demand further2
. A number of firms have realised this trend.
Organizations that are fully integrated having their own creative teams, own production facilities
as well as their own logistic and sales out-lets are best able to exploit the advantage of IT. They
have made themselves able to respond fast in order to meet the exact requirements of the
consumers4
. As a result we witness a growth in business models aiming to provide such
customized services. Advances in product visualization or virtualization with support of IT is
described as “fun experience” by many consumers. But the same is a serious business
opportunity with unlimited potential to the service providers. Apparel industry is moving faster
than ever. The future is not only for the best practices but for the next practices firmly coupled
with Information technology.
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