1. hair care
Industry perspective
SYBILLE CORNELSEN, ANSGAR BEHLER, HANS-MARTIN HAAKE
BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH, Rheinpromenade 1,
40789 Monheim, Germany
Sybille Cornelsen
Ansgar Behler
Hans-Martin Haake
Natural-based hair conditioning:
Closing the gap
A new way to serve the neo-green trend
Abstract
Environmental awareness influences consumers’ day-to-day purchasing decisions in an increasing
number of product categories, including personal care. As a result, the market for natural and
naturally derived personal care products has seen significant growth across all regions. Products, which are based on naturally
derived ingredients have gone from niche to mainstream. However, at the same time, consumers
still expect these products to deliver in terms of performance, functionality and efficacy. To meet
this soaring demand, manufacturers of personal care products are constantly on the lookout for
enhanced natural-based ingredients. Focusing on consumers’ desires and needs has led to the
development of a new high-performance conditioner compound that is a combination of an
emulsifier, a consistency agent and a conditioning agent, and consists solely of renewable and
biodegradable raw materials.
INTRODUCTION
Consumers’ purchasing decisions are increasingly
influenced by considerations about a product’s origin
and its ecological impact. That is why naturally derived
products have become popular and have moved
from niche products to mainstream. Demand for such
products continues to soar, reaching the personal care
market long ago: many
consumers are looking for
environmentally compatible
personal care products
which still provide the
desired performance. This
neo-green trend has led to
increased segmentation of
the personal care market, and continues
to offer significant opportunities for
growth. Global sales of natural personal
care products experienced doubledigit growth between 2005 and 2010,
to a total sales volume of 23 billion US
dollars (Figure 1). There has been growth
across all regions, with particularly high
rates in Brazil and Asia Pacific (Figure
2) and a very consistent growth in the
European market for natural personal
care products. In recent years, total
sales in Europe have risen steadily, with a
compound annual growth rate of 11.1%
between 2006 and 2011 (Figure 3) (1).
Closing the gap
Figure 1. Source: Kline, Natural Personal Care 2011
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As the market data shows, natural
or naturally derived personal care
solutions have increased considerably
in popularity among consumers
H&PC Today - household and Personal Care today, Vol. 8(5) September/October 2013

2. Figure 2. Source: Kline, Natural Personal Care 2011
Figure 4. Scheme of automated anti-hair breakage test
Using its unique combination of market empathy and
science excellence, which includes outstanding expertise
in technology and formulations, BASF has developed a
new, naturally derived conditioner compound that closes
the gap in the conditioner segment. Cetearyl Alcohol
(and) Lecithin (and) Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate (and) Olus Oil
[EU] (Plantaquat® NC) offers very good hair-conditioning
properties, creates volume and protects against hair
breakage and is environmentally compatible. To fulfill the
standards set by various natural and organic cosmetic
certification bodies, e.g. EcoCert, COSMOS and NaTrue,
an unbleached GMO-free lecithin was selected for use in
Plantaquat® NC.
Figure 3. Source: Kline, Natural Personal Care 2011
Performance tests
worldwide. The growing demand for products that are
The innovative formula contains fatty alcohol as a
both environmentally compatible and highly effective
consistency giving agent, fatty alcohol sulfate as
has become one of the
main drivers of innovation in
the industry. However, this
demand proves particularly
challenging in some
segments when it comes to
the formulation of suitable
products, for example, when
trying to find a solution in
the conditioner segment
that is both effective and
environmentally compatible.
In fact, satisfying both these
demands is currently one
of the major formulation
challenges in the hair care
market. Deeply committed to
innovation, BASF’s Personal
Care business strives to
Figure 5. Comparison of hair breakage of formulations with Plantaquat® NC with market
anticipate market demands
benchmark hair conditioners. HB-DE-11-92-238: 7% Plantaquat® NC + 2% Cetiol® C5.
and aims to develop products
HB-DE-11-92-243: 7% Plantaquat® NC. HB-DE-11-92-254: 7% Plantaquat® NC + 2% Sunflower
and solutions that are of real
oil. HB-DE-11-92-258: 7% Plantaquat® NC + 2% Myritol® 312. HB-DE-11-92-255: 7% Plantaquat®
value for consumers and yield
NC + 2% Cegesoft® SB
a return to its customers.
H&PC Today - household and Personal Care today, Vol. 8(5) September/October 2013
37

3. Anti-hair breakage
Figure 6. Visual effects of hair strands treated with market benchmark
conditioner or test conditioner HB-DE-11-92-258: 7% Plantaquat® NC + 2%
Myritol® 312 after 50,000 combing strokes
The assessment of the conditioner
compound’s anti-hair breakage
properties was carried out using a tailormade device as shown in Figure 4 (2). Ten
hair strands treated with test formulation
were repeatedly combed using the
device. The broken hair fibers were
collected separately for each strand and
were then analyzed gravimetrically.
As shown in figure 5, the best hairbreakage prevention was achieved
using a formulation containing 7%
Plantaquat® NC plus 2% Caprylic/Capric
Triglyceride (Myritol® 312). It reached an
anti-breakage level comparable to the
benchmark that claims “up to 95% less hair
breakage” (benchmark 4), and contains
three classic cationics plus a high amount
of amodimethicone.
Figure 6 visualizes the excellent anti-hair
breakage performance of the conditioner
compound. Combined with Myritol® 312, it
is ideally suited for products that are to be
positioned with anti-hair breakage claims.
Half-head tests
The half-head tests, which compare
benchmark hair conditioners with test
conditioners, were performed under
standardized conditions to evaluate
essential hair parameters by a professional
hair-dresser after one application. The
tests were carried out at an external test
institute with 19 volunteers under double
blind conditions. A formulation based
on 5% Plantaquat® NC and 2% Cetiol®
C5 (Coco-Caprylate) was compared to
a benchmark hair conditioner certified
to natural cosmetic standards. The wet
hair parameters showed significant
advantages in using the test formulation
based on Plantaquat® NC and 2% Cetiol®
C5 (Figure 7).
Figure 7. Half head test of natural benchmark hair conditioner versus test
conditioner HB-DE-11-92-128: 5% Plantaquat® NC + 2% Cetiol® C5
Additional half-head tests compared
the performance of a Plantaquat® NC
test formulation to that of two classic
an emulsifier and lecithin as a conditioning agent.
hair conditioners, one of which contained silicone
Comprehensive performance evaluation, including
oil. As shown in Figures 8 and 9, neither half-head test
salon hair tests, was carried out. It showed that
revealed significant differences between the benchmark
the conditioner compound offers very good hairconditioners and a formulation based on 7% Plantaquat®
conditioning properties, creates volume and protects
NC and 2% Cetiol® C5.
against hair breakage.
Evaluation included comparing its performance with
classic conditioner benchmarks on the market in terms
Wet and dry combability
of specific claims, such as hair conditioning, anti-hair
breakage, increased hair volume, etc.
A combability test was conducted to determine
In addition to performance tests on physical properties
hair-combing force, total work and electrostatic charge
of Plantaquat® NC, half-head tests on Caucasian and
using a fully automated system (3) (Figure 10),
Asian hair were performed, which showed that the
which was developed for high throughput and
conditioner compound exhibits outstanding sensorial
reproducibility. The basic test formulations delivered
effects on wet hair.
good conditioning performance on both wet and dry
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H&PC Today - household and Personal Care today, Vol. 8(5) September/October 2013

4. hair (Figures 11 and 12). However, they did
not fully reach the performance level of
a benchmark conditioner that contained
Behentrimonium Chloride as a cationic
ingredient.
Time of Flight Secondary Ion Mass
Spectrometry
(ToF-SIMS)
The ToF-SIMS (4) method makes use of
the secondary ion mass spectra which
are obtained when the sample surface is
bombarded with a primary ion beam (Bi3+
ions were used). By this bombardment
characteristic secondary ions are obtained
from the surface of the sample. Positive/
negative ion mass spectra are obtained
by a time-of-flight detector (figure 13).
Figure 8. Half head test of a classic benchmark hair conditioner (without silicone)
Characteristic positive/negative ions were
versus test conditioner HB-DE-11-92-130: 7% Plantaquat® NC + 2% Cetiol® C 5
first identified in the mass spectra of the
pure lecithin, which were then used as
reference spectra to detect lecithin on hair
following treatment.
Bleached hair was treated with a
formulation containing all ingredients but
lecithin. This hair was used as a reference
to proof that identified specific ions are
generated by lecithin only and not by any
other ingredient or the hair surface.
ToF-SIMS imaging is performed by scanning
the object surface, detecting the intensity
of the emitted secondary ions and storing
the data as distribution images. Such
images (Figure 14) show the distribution
of characteristic ions und thus of lecithin.
In figure 14 different images of bleached
hair without any further treatment (second
row), bleached hair treated with the above
mentioned placebo formulation (third
row) and bleached hair treated with a
conditioner containing Plantaquat® NC (first
row) are shown. In the left column total ion
counts (all ions obtained from the surface)
Figure 9. Half head test of a classic benchmark hair conditioner (with silicone)
are shown resulting in images similar to
versus test conditioner HB-DE-11-92-130: 7% Plantaquat® NC + 2% Cetiol® C 5
scanning electron images. In columns two
and three the intensity of the characteristic
ions of lecithin C5H12N+ and C5H15PNO4+ obtained are
shown in red to yellow (low to high intensities).
Comparing these images, it can clearly be stated that
lecithin is quite homogenously distributed on hair treated
with the Plantaquat® NC conditioner. In contrast, only some
noise can be seen in images of the other two hair samples.
Preparation of test formulation
Place hot water (70-75°C) in a vessel. Add Plantaquat® NC
in solid form and keep stirring until a temperature of 55°C
is reached. Then, add the emollients while stirring, and
homogenize with a rotor/stator mixer, e.g. Ultra Turrax, until
a homogenous cream has formed. Cool down and add
preservative and thermo-sensitive actives at 30-35°C. Finally,
adjust pH. Formulations for hair conditioning rinses or hair
Figure 10. Fully automated hair combability measurement
equipment
H&PC Today - household and Personal Care today, Vol. 8(5) September/October 2013
39

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Finding derived from a representative TNS market survey.

7. Figure 11. Comparison of wet hair combability of
Plantaquat® NC and/or plus emollients with market
benchmark hair conditioner. HB-DE-11-92-328: 7%
Plantaquat® NC + 2% Myritol® 312. HB-DE-11-92-325: 7%
Plantaquat® NC + 2% Cetiol® C 5. HB-DE-11-92-323: 7%
Plantaquat® NC
Figure 12. Comparison of dry hair combability of
Plantaquat® NC and/or plus emollients with market
benchmark hair conditioner. HB-DE-11-92-328: 7%
Plantaquat® NC + 2% Myritol® 312. HB-DE-11-92-325: 7%
Plantaquat® NC + 2% Cetiol® C 5. HB-DE-11-92-323: 7%
Plantaquat® NC
Figure 13. Schematics of Time of Flight Secondary
Ion Mass Spectrometry (ToF-SIMS)
masks can be complemented by soothing oils, proteins
and further actives. Due to the anionic emulsifier, the
addition of cationic ingredients is limited. The final
conditioner emulsion has a beige-brownish color – for
this formulation to fulfill the requirements of natural
cosmetics, a bleaching process therefore was omitted.
Conclusions
Plantaquat® NC can help manufacturers meet the
needs of consumers looking for environmentally
compatible personal care solutions that compromise
neither on efficacy nor on performance. The
conditioner compound perfectly supports
manufacturers striving to meet the specific hair
care demands generated by the neo-green trend.
Comprehensive hair conditioning evaluation showed that
Plantaquat® NC offers excellent conditioning, volume
and protection against hair breakage on the level of
benchmark products. The deposition and distribution
of active substances, i.e. lecithin, on treated hair was
characterized by ToF-SIMS (Time-of-Flight Secondary Ion
Mass Spectrometry) imaging.
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Figure 14. ToF-SIMS imaging of deposition of lecithin, active of
Plantaquat® NC, on hair fiber surface
References and Notes
1.
2.
3.
4.
Kline & Company, Natural Personal Care - An Overview of the
US Market, The Holistic Cosmetic Scientific Symposium, St. Paul,
MN, March 15, 2011.
Haake, H.-M., Eisfeld, W.; Marten, S.; Seipel, W. J Cosmet Sci.
2009, 60 (2), 143-51.
Hloucha, M., Haake, H.M., Pellón, G., Cosm & Toil 124(5) 58-69
(2009).
Sodhi, R. N. S. Analyst. 2004,129, 483-487.
H&PC Today - household and Personal Care today, Vol. 8(5) September/October 2013