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LOOPSCHIP 1.6
                         154 euro                    32 hours - 24 minutes


http://loopschip2011.blogspot.com/                   Filip Gerits/ Elena Martinez / Steven Verbrugge




                           http://designforeveryone.howest.be/
ASSEMBLY MANUAL



    http://designforeveryone.howest.be/
LOOPSCHIP 1.6

BILL OF MATERIAL
1.    Wooden frame
2.    Wheelplate (2)
3.    M5 bolts and nuts (20)
4.    M6 bolts and nuts (4)
5.    M5 Screw-in nut (6)
6.    M6 threaded rod
7.    10mm tubes (3)
8.    Castor wheels (4)
9.    Cross beam
10.   Wheel support plate (2)
11.   Table
12.   Seat
13.   Foam parts (4)
14.   Straps (different sizes)
15.   Springs (2)
16.   Chest support side plates (2)
17.   Chest support main plate
18.   Velcro strips (7)
19.   Wooden plate (for seat)
20.   Wooden pins (2)
21.   Wood screws (2)
22.   Custom toys




        10 different tools needed

         8 standard parts / 2 parts reused

        14 parts tailor made
1   8x
         LOOPSCHIP 1.6

         DESCRIPTION                 The first thing you
         need to do is buy the wood. The structure is built
         up of different layers of triplex wood glued
         together. There are two main shapes you need
         to cut out with a fretsaw . It’s easiest to cut out
         two templates first. Use those to draw the
         shapes with a pencil or the big triplex board. This
         way you make sure each part has approximately
         the same shape.


    2x
                Technical plan 1 and 2

                2 hours

                Pencil and a fret saw or belt saw

                Two standard (120 x 240 ) triplex boards.

                1 part added

                30 euro
2   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

    DESCRIPTION               The structure consists
    of a triangular base. To make that base we’ll
    need to bend the wood. We will start by gluing
    the fixed part to each other. Apply regular wood
    glue and press them together with clamps for
    the time mentioned on the bottle (about one
    hour).
    Remember NOT to glue the long legs. These will
    be glued later.




          1 hour

          6 glue clamps

          A bottle of regular wood glue



          1 euro
3         LOOPSCHIP 1.6

          DESCRIPTION               To bend the two front
          legs we must first attach some bolts to
          strengthen the center and relieve the bending
          stress from the glue surfaces. Therefore there
          are two bolts at the longest leg. This is done by
          drilling a hole with an electric drill and a 5mm
          wood drill.




    5mm         5 minutes

                Electric drill/screwdriver

                5 x M5 inbus bolts and 5 x M5 cap nuts.

                5 part added

                1 euro
4           LOOPSCHIP 1.6

            DESCRIPTION                Now we need to apply
            glue to the long legs. Four of them will make the
            left leg, and the other four the right. Then bend
            open the legs and insert a steel rod spacer (cut
            with a metal saw on an angle) between the two
            legs (1). Be fast! Make sure you insert the rod
            before the glue has started to dry. Now use the
            clamps to make sure the gaps between the
            layers of triplex are closed. Spread them out
            evenly (2).

            After the glue has dried, saw away the excess
            wood and use sanding paper to round and trim
            all the edges. A sanding belt or electric circular
            sander is recommended.
        1

    2              1 hour 30 minutes

                   Wood glue, metal saw and sanding paper.

                   10 mm steel tube



                   5 euro
5   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

    DESCRIPTION               At the bottom of the
    bent front legs we need a way to attach the
    swivel wheels. This can be done by adding
    triangular blocks of multiplex or triplex wood.
    Those can then also be sanded to match the legs
    and have a flat surface.




          1 hour 30 minutes

          Wood glue, belt saw, sanding paper.
6   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

    DESCRIPTION                 At the back of the
    board the structure is widened with additional
    layers of triplex wood. The number of additional
    layers depends on the thickness of the wood and
    the size of the back wheel.
    Make sure the finished piece is as wide as the
    axle of the wheel.

    With a butterfly drill you drill out bigger wholes
    for the seat pins.




           1 hour 30 minutes

           Wood glue, belt saw and sanding paper.
7   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

    DESCRIPTION                 Cut off the top of the
    structure, at the desired height for the table. Be
    sure you sand off a flat levelled surface.
    You will need to cut out a groove for the table
    cross beam and add inserts later on.




           30 minutes

           Belt saw and sanding paper
8   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

    DESCRIPTION            Further sand off the
    wooden shape and drill 5mm diameter holes
    where needed.

    (1) Holes for the support beams.
    (2) Hole for the front support brace
    (3) Holes for the big rear wheel




          2 hours

          Drill, belt sanding machine, sandpaper
9   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

    DESCRIPTION Finished main shape.
10   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION               The metal tube you
     used to bend the wood will now be used again to
     make the construction more rigid. Through the
     tube you need to add a threaded rod. In that
     way you can screw bolts to fix it.




           30 minutes




           3 parts added.
11   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                   To     give     the
     construction even more rigidity we are going to
     add two support tubes. Use the same type of
     steel tube we used between the front legs.
     Saw off two equal lenghts of the steel bar and
     flatten the tubes at both ends with a vice. Grind
     the ends. Drill a 9mm hole through the metal
     ends.




           1 hour

           metal saw , drill, grinder, vice

           10 mm steel tube



           10 euro
12   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                 Place the support bar
     over the bottom axle, add a spacer and a washer
     and bolt it on loosely. Do this at both sides.




           10 minutes



           M6 bolt and nut

           8 parts added.

           1 euro
13   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION             At the top we can now
     connect the two by putting a bolt through the
     wooden main part and the two support rods.




           10 minutes



           M5 bolt, washer and nut

           3 parts added.
14   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                Firmly tighten all the
     bolts when everything is in place.




           10 minutes
15   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION Finished main shape.
16   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                  The big wheel is a
     wheelbarrow wheel you can buy in a DIY store.
     We chose for a bright yellow to add playfulness.
     After having measured the height of the axle
     (radius/2) and measuring the height of the main
     structure when levelled we know how big the
     connection pieces must be. Those pieces are
     drawn out on triplex and glued together. We
     took 4 layers each. Then 5mm holes are added
     to attach to the main structure, and a bigger
     hole with a butterfly drill to slide over the wheel
     axle.




            1 hour 10 minutes

            Fretsaw, wood glue, drill, butterfly drill.

            Yellow cartwheel wheel.

            3 parts added.

            32 euros
17   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                The two fork parts can
     be bolted on the axle of the wheel.




           5 minutes
18   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION               To attach the fork to
     the main structure you can cut 2 pieces off a M5
     threaded rod. For the ends you can use M5
     capped nuts.




           30 minutes

           metal saw

           M5 threaded rod, M5 capped nuts
19   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION              We used cap nuts so
     the user can’t cut him/herself on the exposed
     rod.




           4 parts added.
20   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                To drive around you
     will need more than one wheel. We have found
     that three weels weren’t stable enough. We
     added 2 extra wheels for support, this may not
     be necessary in your case. Extra support can be
     cut out of multiplex, or multiple layers of triplex
     and glued together. The swivel wheel is a wheel
     we recovered from an old walking aid, but any
     strong swivel wheel will do.
     You will also need a inbus bolt, a nut, and a few
     washers. This may not be necessary with your
     wheels.

     X2



            1 hour 30 minutes

            Belt saw, drill and sanding paper.



            14 parts added.
21   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION               First we attach the
     wheel to the front wheel support plate. You will
     have enough room to use an hex-key to tighten
     the bolt.

     X2




           10 minutes

           Hex-key

           M5 bolt, nut and washer



           1 euro
22   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                 In the attachment
     blocks on the main shape make 9mm holes for
     the metal threaded inserts.
     These we now use for attaching the main plate
     with one bolt. Make sure the holes correspond.

     X2




           30 minutes

           Drill, screwdriver, hex-key

           M5 bolts, nut and washers, M5 screw-in nut

           4 parts added.

           5 euro
23   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                Use a washer for a
     better force distribution. Make sure the bolts
     aren’t too long. The length of the bolt must
     somewhere between the thickness of the
     wooden board and that thickness added with
     the depth of the threaded insert.

     X2
24   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION               For the fourth and fifth
     wheel you will need the same bolts and washers.




            8 parts added
25   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION              Attached the wheel in
     the second hole made in the board and block. If
     everything is aligned right this should go
     perfectly.




           10 minutes

           Hex-key

           M5 bolts, nuts and washers
26   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION
     move.
                   Now the structure can
27   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION               These are the parts we
     need, to make the seat. From left to right: the
     PC seat, an extra pc detail, wooden base,
     wooden pins, wood screws and a leather back
     strap at the top. The back strap is recovered
     from a different support apparatus.




           Wood screws
28   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                  The polycarbonate
     chair is bent with a bending machine. We first
     cut out the shape and drew the bend lines. Make
     sure you let the sheet dry in an oven at 60 °C for
     about 24 hours before bending it. Otherwise
     there will be bubbles at the bends. The groove at
     the top is made for adjustability. This can be 2
     simple holes too.




            Technical plan 3

            1hour 30 minutes + 1 day drying time

            Belt saw and bending-machine.

            PC board 60x70 cm



            9 euro
29   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                The 6mm transparent
     polycarbonate plate can be bent by using a
     warm paint blower. Be sure to put the
     polycarbonate plate in a drying oven (on 70 °C)
     for about a day. If you don’t do that bubbles will
     form during the bending process. Once you
     have heated the plastic up to a point where it is
     getting strecheable, you can start bending.




            15 minutes + 1 day drying time

            Belt saw, heat blower, drill
30   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                   Bend the plastic by
     holding it or fixing it with clamps. Be sure to use
     pliers for holding the heated tip to avoid getting
     burnt.




            1 minute

            Pliers or a vice
31   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                 The seat base is made
     out of multiplex wood in our case. This can be
     any kind of firm material (we used wood
     leftovers). We will add two wooden axles to slide
     the seat into the wooden main structure. These
     are cut off peaces of a broom stick. The reason
     for this ‘slide in’ seat is to make our product
     adjustable to the user, and especially because
     grow.




           1 hour

           Belt saw and sanding paper

           Wood screws and a recycled broomstick

           5 parts added
32   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                Use wood screws to
     attach everything together. The leather part is a
     strap we reused from a different aid. This was
     added to give our user more back support but it
     depends on who will use it.




           5 minutes

           Screwdriver

           1 standard strap

           1 part added

           1 euro
33   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                  Before placing the
     saddle on the main structure you can ad springs.
     The springs we used are recycled from an old
     bycicle saddle. By using higher springs you can
     adjust the height of the saddle from ground up.




           1 minute



           2 springs recycled

           2 parts added
34   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION Place in the saddle.




         1 minute
35   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                    Add an optional
     cushion to the seat. This cushion is cut in shape
     with a belt saw. Mind that this cushion also
     alters the height of the seat.




           15 minutes

           Belt saw

           Recycled foam cut to shape

           1 part added
36   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION
     structure.
                     Front   support
37   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                 Make the mold first!
     Use scrapwood, or what you can find and
     construct a mold as in the image. Cut out 6
     identical square pieces. Draw the curve on these
     6 plates, make sure that the 6 plates and the
     curve are exactly the same and cut the square
     pieces following the curve. Now you'll have the
     2x6 identical halves of the mold.
     Now screw them onto a base plate. Use enough
     screws and make sure that they fit nicely.




           1hour

           belt saw, electrical screwdriver

           Some screws (18x 4,5x35mm)



           3 euro
38   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                 When you have the
     mold, make 3 identical curved plates by bending
     and gluing pieces of plywood.
     Use 3 layers of standard plywood (multiplex 3-
     4mm thickness, 40 by 20 cm). Stretch the wood
     first! Wet the pieces and put them in the mold
     without glue! Fasten the clamps a little and leave
     them for some time. Do this multiple times until
     you’re sure that you can bend the wood without
     breaking it.
     When you're ready, put some glue between the
     plates and clamp them again (as strong as
     possible!). Wait for the glue to dry.




            Multiple hours per plate (3x)

            A set of clamps (6 or more)

            Normal glue for wood

            3 parts added

            2 euro
39   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                 When the glue has
     dried, open the mold and take out the curved
     plate. Repeat until you have 3 pieces.
     Now cut the plates to the desired shape. The
     exact shape is not important and depends on
     your patient. Maybe later on, you'll have to alter
     the shape again to correct it.
     Make sure, your patients legs fit between the
     seat and the chest support, and that his arms fit
     over it.




            1h

            Belt saw,
40   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION
     and slots in the plates.
                              Now cut out the holes

     In the main plate, cut out 4 holes (diam. 5mm),
     approximately 5 cm from the sides, and 5-8 cm
     from the top and bottom.
     In the 2 side plates make 2 slots, 5-6cm long,
     5mm wide. Make sure they are positioned
     relative to the holes in the main-plate.
     To make the slots, we drilled 2 holes (5mm) and
     cut out the part in between with a fretsaw.
     Finish by sanding the plates.




           30 min

           Drill (5mm), fretsaw
41   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                 Attach the front
     support bracket to the main plate. This bracket
     consists of 2 slotted plates (slots 5mm wide)
     hold apart by a piece of wood with the same
     width of the main support structure.
     The bracket is simply glued together, and
     screwed onto the main plate. (center back, 5cm
     from the bottom)




           1h to glue the parts

           Belt saw, drill, fretsaw, screwdriver

           Screws (3x 3,5x30mm)

           3 parts added

           1 euro
42   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                Position the straps
     with the plastic connectors and the velcro strips
     on to the plates. Use an old backpack for the
     plastic connectors.
     Position the straps according to the needs of
     your patient. Remember that the position of the
     plastic connectors, determine the position of the
     back-support straps!




           15 min




           5 parts added
43   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                  When they are
     positioned correctly, staple the straps and the
     velcro to the plates.
     You can use a pneumatic stapler, but a
     mechanical one will do too.




           15 min.

           stapler

           staples



           1 euro
44   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                Bolt the side plates to
     the main plate, use bolts with a rounded head.
     Use a washer at the back to prevent damaging
     the wood.




            10 min

            wrench

            4 bolts, nuts and washers (M5)

            14 parts added

            2 euro
45   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION
     cut the foam parts.
                              Now you're ready to

     Find some old mattress, or foam-pillows to cut
     them out.
46   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                  Use a sharp knife, an
     electric knife or a belt saw to cut the foam.
     We made 3 parts, one large thin part for the
     main plate, and 2 triangular parts for the side
     plates. We made them out of different types of
     foam, but you can do it with the foam you can
     find.




            20 min

            Belt saw or sharp knife
47   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                  Attach some velcro
     strips to the back of the foam parts. Use self
     adhesive-velcro for this.
     Position the velcro strips relative to the strips on
     the plates.
     When necessary use some extra glue.




            10 min.



            Velcro

            9 parts added

            8 euro
48   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION             Now attach the foam
     parts to the support, and you've finished this
     part.
49   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION               Now you can attach
     the chest-support to the main-frame.
50   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION              First drill a hole in the
     main frame (5mm). Use the chest part to
     determine where the hole should be. Make sure
     you can height-adjust the chest-part as much as
     possible.
     Use a bolt, a nut an some washers to attach the
     chest-part to the frame.




            20 min

            Drill

            1 bolt, nut, 2 washers (M5x60)

            3 parts added
51   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION
     support straps.
                               Now attach the back

     We collected some straps from old wheelchairs
     at the care institute of our patient.
     You can use what you can find, according to your
     patients needs.
52   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION               Now the chest-support
     is completely finished and you can start with the
     table.
53   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                First thing to do is to
     make a slot for the table cross beam. This slot
     should be the same width as the thickness of the
     cross-beam (24 mm see also next step) and 2-3
     cm deep. Make the slot by cutting the sides with
     a thin saw, and then chopping out the part in
     between with a chisel.
     Make a hole at the bottom of the slot, and one
     at the tip of the frame (9mm). Screw in a “screw-
     in nut” in each hole.




            1 hour

            Hammer, chisel, thin saw, drill, screwdriver

            2x “screw-in nut”

            2 parts added

            1 euro
54   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION               Now cut out the cross-
     beam. We started by gluing two plates of
     plywood together to make a plate with thickness
     of 24 mm.
     Make sure your cross-beam is big enough to
     support the table. Make it 40 to 50 cm long
     depending on the width of your table.
     Cut out a rectangular part where the frame fits
     in (same way as before) and drill 3 holes: One for
     the connection to the frame and 2 for the table.
     (5mm)




            1,5 hours

            Belt saw, hammer, chisel, drill
55   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION
     beam to the frame.
                           Now bolt the cross-




           5 min

           Hex-key

           1 M5x25 bolt

           2 parts added

           1 euro
56   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                 Now drill holes in the
     table relative to the holes in the cross-beam and
     the frame.
     We used the table from an old standing aid
     belonging to our patient. Again, you can use or
     make any table you want.
     Use rounded or sunken bolts, so they don't stick
     out of the table.




            20 min.

            Drill, wrench

            3 bolts and nuts

            6 parts added

            1 euro
57   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                  Draw in Illustrator the
     table and the 3 circles, different sizes, repeat the
     big one twice and the other two 4 times each
     one and one without any cut inside.




            45 minutes.

            Computer with Illustrator.
58   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION
     laser cut.
                                Send the file to the




            1 hour 30 minutes

            Laser cut

            2 layers of multiplex wood



            2 euro
59   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION Make the toys.




         3 hours



         Little cars, plastic figures, foam, wire, wood
         colored balls , springs and paint.



         24 euro
60   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                Glue together all the
     circles that are equal, putting the toys in their
     places.




           40 minutes

           clamps

           Wood glue



           4 euro
61   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION
     figures.
                         Glue together all the




            40 minutes

            Clamps

            Wood glue



            2 euro
62   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION                 Cut the foam with the
     form of the push figures and put it under each
     figure and glue it to the base, the circle with all
     the figures cut, to create the button effect, then
     Velcro under each figure to attach to the foam.




            1 hours 30minutes

            Band saw and cutter

            Foam, velcro and paint



            1 euro
63   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION              Drill three M4 holes in
     the wood table to place the three circles,
     without touching each other.




           10 minutes

           Drill
64   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION Put on each hole one
     screw from the back to the front. After the
     wood, put on each screw one sheave to make it
     stay still and firm.




           5 minutes

           Screwdriver and pliers

           Screws and sheaves



           5 euro
65   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION Place each circle in
     their respective screw. Place another shave in
     the end of each screw to avoid the circles to
     come out when they turn.




           1 hour 30 minutes
66   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION Finished peace.
67   LOOPSCHIP 1.6

     DESCRIPTION Finished piece.
TECHNICAL ADDENDUM



      http://designforeveryone.howest.be/
1
              70




    90   70
2
                                            Height of the table -
                                            wheelheight
                                                                    (70)


    (40)
      Height of the legs – (wheelheight +
      seat height)
3
                  (30)


                  (10)




           (40)
    (10)
TEAM CONTACTS



   http://designforeveryone.howest.be/
sucobona@gmail.com
  TEL +52 14 42 35 99 0 34


stevenverbrugge@hotmail.com
    TEL +32 474 66 72 50


   filipgerits@yahoo.com
    TEL +32 485 82 70 83


mpi@zonnebloem.telenet.be




    http://designforeveryone.howest.be/

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D4E1 Loopschip 2011 Manual

  • 2. LOOPSCHIP 1.6 154 euro 32 hours - 24 minutes http://loopschip2011.blogspot.com/ Filip Gerits/ Elena Martinez / Steven Verbrugge http://designforeveryone.howest.be/
  • 3. ASSEMBLY MANUAL http://designforeveryone.howest.be/
  • 4. LOOPSCHIP 1.6 BILL OF MATERIAL 1. Wooden frame 2. Wheelplate (2) 3. M5 bolts and nuts (20) 4. M6 bolts and nuts (4) 5. M5 Screw-in nut (6) 6. M6 threaded rod 7. 10mm tubes (3) 8. Castor wheels (4) 9. Cross beam 10. Wheel support plate (2) 11. Table 12. Seat 13. Foam parts (4) 14. Straps (different sizes) 15. Springs (2) 16. Chest support side plates (2) 17. Chest support main plate 18. Velcro strips (7) 19. Wooden plate (for seat) 20. Wooden pins (2) 21. Wood screws (2) 22. Custom toys 10 different tools needed 8 standard parts / 2 parts reused 14 parts tailor made
  • 5. 1 8x LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION The first thing you need to do is buy the wood. The structure is built up of different layers of triplex wood glued together. There are two main shapes you need to cut out with a fretsaw . It’s easiest to cut out two templates first. Use those to draw the shapes with a pencil or the big triplex board. This way you make sure each part has approximately the same shape. 2x Technical plan 1 and 2 2 hours Pencil and a fret saw or belt saw Two standard (120 x 240 ) triplex boards. 1 part added 30 euro
  • 6. 2 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION The structure consists of a triangular base. To make that base we’ll need to bend the wood. We will start by gluing the fixed part to each other. Apply regular wood glue and press them together with clamps for the time mentioned on the bottle (about one hour). Remember NOT to glue the long legs. These will be glued later. 1 hour 6 glue clamps A bottle of regular wood glue 1 euro
  • 7. 3 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION To bend the two front legs we must first attach some bolts to strengthen the center and relieve the bending stress from the glue surfaces. Therefore there are two bolts at the longest leg. This is done by drilling a hole with an electric drill and a 5mm wood drill. 5mm 5 minutes Electric drill/screwdriver 5 x M5 inbus bolts and 5 x M5 cap nuts. 5 part added 1 euro
  • 8. 4 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Now we need to apply glue to the long legs. Four of them will make the left leg, and the other four the right. Then bend open the legs and insert a steel rod spacer (cut with a metal saw on an angle) between the two legs (1). Be fast! Make sure you insert the rod before the glue has started to dry. Now use the clamps to make sure the gaps between the layers of triplex are closed. Spread them out evenly (2). After the glue has dried, saw away the excess wood and use sanding paper to round and trim all the edges. A sanding belt or electric circular sander is recommended. 1 2 1 hour 30 minutes Wood glue, metal saw and sanding paper. 10 mm steel tube 5 euro
  • 9. 5 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION At the bottom of the bent front legs we need a way to attach the swivel wheels. This can be done by adding triangular blocks of multiplex or triplex wood. Those can then also be sanded to match the legs and have a flat surface. 1 hour 30 minutes Wood glue, belt saw, sanding paper.
  • 10. 6 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION At the back of the board the structure is widened with additional layers of triplex wood. The number of additional layers depends on the thickness of the wood and the size of the back wheel. Make sure the finished piece is as wide as the axle of the wheel. With a butterfly drill you drill out bigger wholes for the seat pins. 1 hour 30 minutes Wood glue, belt saw and sanding paper.
  • 11. 7 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Cut off the top of the structure, at the desired height for the table. Be sure you sand off a flat levelled surface. You will need to cut out a groove for the table cross beam and add inserts later on. 30 minutes Belt saw and sanding paper
  • 12. 8 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Further sand off the wooden shape and drill 5mm diameter holes where needed. (1) Holes for the support beams. (2) Hole for the front support brace (3) Holes for the big rear wheel 2 hours Drill, belt sanding machine, sandpaper
  • 13. 9 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Finished main shape.
  • 14. 10 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION The metal tube you used to bend the wood will now be used again to make the construction more rigid. Through the tube you need to add a threaded rod. In that way you can screw bolts to fix it. 30 minutes 3 parts added.
  • 15. 11 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION To give the construction even more rigidity we are going to add two support tubes. Use the same type of steel tube we used between the front legs. Saw off two equal lenghts of the steel bar and flatten the tubes at both ends with a vice. Grind the ends. Drill a 9mm hole through the metal ends. 1 hour metal saw , drill, grinder, vice 10 mm steel tube 10 euro
  • 16. 12 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Place the support bar over the bottom axle, add a spacer and a washer and bolt it on loosely. Do this at both sides. 10 minutes M6 bolt and nut 8 parts added. 1 euro
  • 17. 13 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION At the top we can now connect the two by putting a bolt through the wooden main part and the two support rods. 10 minutes M5 bolt, washer and nut 3 parts added.
  • 18. 14 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Firmly tighten all the bolts when everything is in place. 10 minutes
  • 19. 15 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Finished main shape.
  • 20. 16 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION The big wheel is a wheelbarrow wheel you can buy in a DIY store. We chose for a bright yellow to add playfulness. After having measured the height of the axle (radius/2) and measuring the height of the main structure when levelled we know how big the connection pieces must be. Those pieces are drawn out on triplex and glued together. We took 4 layers each. Then 5mm holes are added to attach to the main structure, and a bigger hole with a butterfly drill to slide over the wheel axle. 1 hour 10 minutes Fretsaw, wood glue, drill, butterfly drill. Yellow cartwheel wheel. 3 parts added. 32 euros
  • 21. 17 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION The two fork parts can be bolted on the axle of the wheel. 5 minutes
  • 22. 18 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION To attach the fork to the main structure you can cut 2 pieces off a M5 threaded rod. For the ends you can use M5 capped nuts. 30 minutes metal saw M5 threaded rod, M5 capped nuts
  • 23. 19 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION We used cap nuts so the user can’t cut him/herself on the exposed rod. 4 parts added.
  • 24. 20 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION To drive around you will need more than one wheel. We have found that three weels weren’t stable enough. We added 2 extra wheels for support, this may not be necessary in your case. Extra support can be cut out of multiplex, or multiple layers of triplex and glued together. The swivel wheel is a wheel we recovered from an old walking aid, but any strong swivel wheel will do. You will also need a inbus bolt, a nut, and a few washers. This may not be necessary with your wheels. X2 1 hour 30 minutes Belt saw, drill and sanding paper. 14 parts added.
  • 25. 21 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION First we attach the wheel to the front wheel support plate. You will have enough room to use an hex-key to tighten the bolt. X2 10 minutes Hex-key M5 bolt, nut and washer 1 euro
  • 26. 22 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION In the attachment blocks on the main shape make 9mm holes for the metal threaded inserts. These we now use for attaching the main plate with one bolt. Make sure the holes correspond. X2 30 minutes Drill, screwdriver, hex-key M5 bolts, nut and washers, M5 screw-in nut 4 parts added. 5 euro
  • 27. 23 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Use a washer for a better force distribution. Make sure the bolts aren’t too long. The length of the bolt must somewhere between the thickness of the wooden board and that thickness added with the depth of the threaded insert. X2
  • 28. 24 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION For the fourth and fifth wheel you will need the same bolts and washers. 8 parts added
  • 29. 25 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Attached the wheel in the second hole made in the board and block. If everything is aligned right this should go perfectly. 10 minutes Hex-key M5 bolts, nuts and washers
  • 30. 26 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION move. Now the structure can
  • 31. 27 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION These are the parts we need, to make the seat. From left to right: the PC seat, an extra pc detail, wooden base, wooden pins, wood screws and a leather back strap at the top. The back strap is recovered from a different support apparatus. Wood screws
  • 32. 28 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION The polycarbonate chair is bent with a bending machine. We first cut out the shape and drew the bend lines. Make sure you let the sheet dry in an oven at 60 °C for about 24 hours before bending it. Otherwise there will be bubbles at the bends. The groove at the top is made for adjustability. This can be 2 simple holes too. Technical plan 3 1hour 30 minutes + 1 day drying time Belt saw and bending-machine. PC board 60x70 cm 9 euro
  • 33. 29 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION The 6mm transparent polycarbonate plate can be bent by using a warm paint blower. Be sure to put the polycarbonate plate in a drying oven (on 70 °C) for about a day. If you don’t do that bubbles will form during the bending process. Once you have heated the plastic up to a point where it is getting strecheable, you can start bending. 15 minutes + 1 day drying time Belt saw, heat blower, drill
  • 34. 30 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Bend the plastic by holding it or fixing it with clamps. Be sure to use pliers for holding the heated tip to avoid getting burnt. 1 minute Pliers or a vice
  • 35. 31 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION The seat base is made out of multiplex wood in our case. This can be any kind of firm material (we used wood leftovers). We will add two wooden axles to slide the seat into the wooden main structure. These are cut off peaces of a broom stick. The reason for this ‘slide in’ seat is to make our product adjustable to the user, and especially because grow. 1 hour Belt saw and sanding paper Wood screws and a recycled broomstick 5 parts added
  • 36. 32 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Use wood screws to attach everything together. The leather part is a strap we reused from a different aid. This was added to give our user more back support but it depends on who will use it. 5 minutes Screwdriver 1 standard strap 1 part added 1 euro
  • 37. 33 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Before placing the saddle on the main structure you can ad springs. The springs we used are recycled from an old bycicle saddle. By using higher springs you can adjust the height of the saddle from ground up. 1 minute 2 springs recycled 2 parts added
  • 38. 34 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Place in the saddle. 1 minute
  • 39. 35 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Add an optional cushion to the seat. This cushion is cut in shape with a belt saw. Mind that this cushion also alters the height of the seat. 15 minutes Belt saw Recycled foam cut to shape 1 part added
  • 40. 36 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION structure. Front support
  • 41. 37 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Make the mold first! Use scrapwood, or what you can find and construct a mold as in the image. Cut out 6 identical square pieces. Draw the curve on these 6 plates, make sure that the 6 plates and the curve are exactly the same and cut the square pieces following the curve. Now you'll have the 2x6 identical halves of the mold. Now screw them onto a base plate. Use enough screws and make sure that they fit nicely. 1hour belt saw, electrical screwdriver Some screws (18x 4,5x35mm) 3 euro
  • 42. 38 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION When you have the mold, make 3 identical curved plates by bending and gluing pieces of plywood. Use 3 layers of standard plywood (multiplex 3- 4mm thickness, 40 by 20 cm). Stretch the wood first! Wet the pieces and put them in the mold without glue! Fasten the clamps a little and leave them for some time. Do this multiple times until you’re sure that you can bend the wood without breaking it. When you're ready, put some glue between the plates and clamp them again (as strong as possible!). Wait for the glue to dry. Multiple hours per plate (3x) A set of clamps (6 or more) Normal glue for wood 3 parts added 2 euro
  • 43. 39 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION When the glue has dried, open the mold and take out the curved plate. Repeat until you have 3 pieces. Now cut the plates to the desired shape. The exact shape is not important and depends on your patient. Maybe later on, you'll have to alter the shape again to correct it. Make sure, your patients legs fit between the seat and the chest support, and that his arms fit over it. 1h Belt saw,
  • 44. 40 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION and slots in the plates. Now cut out the holes In the main plate, cut out 4 holes (diam. 5mm), approximately 5 cm from the sides, and 5-8 cm from the top and bottom. In the 2 side plates make 2 slots, 5-6cm long, 5mm wide. Make sure they are positioned relative to the holes in the main-plate. To make the slots, we drilled 2 holes (5mm) and cut out the part in between with a fretsaw. Finish by sanding the plates. 30 min Drill (5mm), fretsaw
  • 45. 41 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Attach the front support bracket to the main plate. This bracket consists of 2 slotted plates (slots 5mm wide) hold apart by a piece of wood with the same width of the main support structure. The bracket is simply glued together, and screwed onto the main plate. (center back, 5cm from the bottom) 1h to glue the parts Belt saw, drill, fretsaw, screwdriver Screws (3x 3,5x30mm) 3 parts added 1 euro
  • 46. 42 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Position the straps with the plastic connectors and the velcro strips on to the plates. Use an old backpack for the plastic connectors. Position the straps according to the needs of your patient. Remember that the position of the plastic connectors, determine the position of the back-support straps! 15 min 5 parts added
  • 47. 43 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION When they are positioned correctly, staple the straps and the velcro to the plates. You can use a pneumatic stapler, but a mechanical one will do too. 15 min. stapler staples 1 euro
  • 48. 44 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Bolt the side plates to the main plate, use bolts with a rounded head. Use a washer at the back to prevent damaging the wood. 10 min wrench 4 bolts, nuts and washers (M5) 14 parts added 2 euro
  • 49. 45 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION cut the foam parts. Now you're ready to Find some old mattress, or foam-pillows to cut them out.
  • 50. 46 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Use a sharp knife, an electric knife or a belt saw to cut the foam. We made 3 parts, one large thin part for the main plate, and 2 triangular parts for the side plates. We made them out of different types of foam, but you can do it with the foam you can find. 20 min Belt saw or sharp knife
  • 51. 47 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Attach some velcro strips to the back of the foam parts. Use self adhesive-velcro for this. Position the velcro strips relative to the strips on the plates. When necessary use some extra glue. 10 min. Velcro 9 parts added 8 euro
  • 52. 48 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Now attach the foam parts to the support, and you've finished this part.
  • 53. 49 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Now you can attach the chest-support to the main-frame.
  • 54. 50 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION First drill a hole in the main frame (5mm). Use the chest part to determine where the hole should be. Make sure you can height-adjust the chest-part as much as possible. Use a bolt, a nut an some washers to attach the chest-part to the frame. 20 min Drill 1 bolt, nut, 2 washers (M5x60) 3 parts added
  • 55. 51 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION support straps. Now attach the back We collected some straps from old wheelchairs at the care institute of our patient. You can use what you can find, according to your patients needs.
  • 56. 52 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Now the chest-support is completely finished and you can start with the table.
  • 57. 53 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION First thing to do is to make a slot for the table cross beam. This slot should be the same width as the thickness of the cross-beam (24 mm see also next step) and 2-3 cm deep. Make the slot by cutting the sides with a thin saw, and then chopping out the part in between with a chisel. Make a hole at the bottom of the slot, and one at the tip of the frame (9mm). Screw in a “screw- in nut” in each hole. 1 hour Hammer, chisel, thin saw, drill, screwdriver 2x “screw-in nut” 2 parts added 1 euro
  • 58. 54 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Now cut out the cross- beam. We started by gluing two plates of plywood together to make a plate with thickness of 24 mm. Make sure your cross-beam is big enough to support the table. Make it 40 to 50 cm long depending on the width of your table. Cut out a rectangular part where the frame fits in (same way as before) and drill 3 holes: One for the connection to the frame and 2 for the table. (5mm) 1,5 hours Belt saw, hammer, chisel, drill
  • 59. 55 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION beam to the frame. Now bolt the cross- 5 min Hex-key 1 M5x25 bolt 2 parts added 1 euro
  • 60. 56 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Now drill holes in the table relative to the holes in the cross-beam and the frame. We used the table from an old standing aid belonging to our patient. Again, you can use or make any table you want. Use rounded or sunken bolts, so they don't stick out of the table. 20 min. Drill, wrench 3 bolts and nuts 6 parts added 1 euro
  • 61. 57 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Draw in Illustrator the table and the 3 circles, different sizes, repeat the big one twice and the other two 4 times each one and one without any cut inside. 45 minutes. Computer with Illustrator.
  • 62. 58 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION laser cut. Send the file to the 1 hour 30 minutes Laser cut 2 layers of multiplex wood 2 euro
  • 63. 59 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Make the toys. 3 hours Little cars, plastic figures, foam, wire, wood colored balls , springs and paint. 24 euro
  • 64. 60 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Glue together all the circles that are equal, putting the toys in their places. 40 minutes clamps Wood glue 4 euro
  • 65. 61 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION figures. Glue together all the 40 minutes Clamps Wood glue 2 euro
  • 66. 62 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Cut the foam with the form of the push figures and put it under each figure and glue it to the base, the circle with all the figures cut, to create the button effect, then Velcro under each figure to attach to the foam. 1 hours 30minutes Band saw and cutter Foam, velcro and paint 1 euro
  • 67. 63 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Drill three M4 holes in the wood table to place the three circles, without touching each other. 10 minutes Drill
  • 68. 64 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Put on each hole one screw from the back to the front. After the wood, put on each screw one sheave to make it stay still and firm. 5 minutes Screwdriver and pliers Screws and sheaves 5 euro
  • 69. 65 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Place each circle in their respective screw. Place another shave in the end of each screw to avoid the circles to come out when they turn. 1 hour 30 minutes
  • 70. 66 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Finished peace.
  • 71. 67 LOOPSCHIP 1.6 DESCRIPTION Finished piece.
  • 72. TECHNICAL ADDENDUM http://designforeveryone.howest.be/
  • 73. 1 70 90 70
  • 74. 2 Height of the table - wheelheight (70) (40) Height of the legs – (wheelheight + seat height)
  • 75. 3 (30) (10) (40) (10)
  • 76. TEAM CONTACTS http://designforeveryone.howest.be/
  • 77. sucobona@gmail.com TEL +52 14 42 35 99 0 34 stevenverbrugge@hotmail.com TEL +32 474 66 72 50 filipgerits@yahoo.com TEL +32 485 82 70 83 mpi@zonnebloem.telenet.be http://designforeveryone.howest.be/