jacket, coat, types, tuxedo, blazer, tail coat

1. JACKET
By Sunil Talekar

2. IMPORTANT
PARTS OF JACKETS
LAPEL
COLLAR
SHOULDER PAD
BOUND POCKET
VENT
BREAK POINT
JET POCKET

3. TYPES OF
LAPELS
PEAK LAPEL
STANDARD
WIDE NOTCH
NARROW

4. JACKET KEY ELEMENTS

5. PEAK LAPEL
A peaked lapel is defined by the lapel edges pointing
up and towards the shoulder. Traditionally, this lapel
was seen in very formal garments like the morning
coat or the tailcoat. In modern times this look is
(unfairly?) constrained to the realm of executive
offices and formal events. You can’t really dress
down a peaked lapel. Whether it’s on a double
breasted suit or not, you’ll stand out from the crowd.
If you choose to widen the lapel and then go peaked,
well, now you are really making a statement.

6. PEAK LAPEL

7. PEAK LAPEL
ONLY WEAR A WIDE LAPEL IF:
Your body frame is large (overweight or very muscular and
broad) as you need your lapel to also be wide to maintain
the proportions of your body frame.
DON’T WEAR A WIDE LAPEL IF:
You have a skinny/narrow body frame as the standard and
wide lapels will not be proportionate with your body
frame and your appearance will look odd.
You are a very large (overweight or extremely broad and
muscular) as the narrow lapels will not be proportionate
with your body frame and your appearance will look
exceptionally odd.
THE ONLY TIE YOU CAN WEAR WITH WIDE LAPELS IS A:
Wide widthed tie (not a skinny/narrow or standard width)
as your tie MUST be in proportion to the width of your
lapels and general body frame.

8. NARROW
The notched lapel is the venerable standard in men’s
suiting. It’s traditional yet contemporary and will be
found on jackets ranging from your weekend
sportcoat to your go-to business suit.
By definition, the notched lapel is categorized by a
‘notch’ where the jacket collar meets the lapel at a
75 – 90 deg angle.
If you have one suit, make it a notched lapel, simply
because this style is the most versatile. You can wear
it to work, to the bar, to an interview, just about
anywhere you like.

9. NARROW
ONLY WEAR A NARROW LAPEL IF:
You are very skinny and have narrow
shoulders as the narrow lapels will be in
proportion with your narrow body frame.
DON’T WEAR A NARROW LAPEL IF:
You have an average/standard build in
which you are not skinny but you’re also
not overly broad and muscular as the
narrow lapels will not be proportionate
with your body frame and your
appearance will look odd.
THE ONLY TIE YOU CAN WEAR WITH
NARROW LAPELS IS A:
Narrow width tie (not a standard or overly
wide width) as your tie MUST be in
proportion to the width of your lapels and
general body frame.

10. SHAWL
Shawl Lapel – Characterized by a rounded edge,
the shawl lapel is most common on dinner jackets
/ tuxedos (for those nights you plan on taking
down a couple of Oscars or upstaging the
groomsmen at a friend’s wedding).
Body Type (who should wear it): Most body
types. Not recommended if you have an
extremely round face or body as the rounded
lapel will accentuate those features
by mimicking it. Instead, opt for a peak or notch
lapel with more jagged lines instead.

11. SHAWL

12. STANDARD

13. WIDE NOTCH

14. WIDE NOTCH

15. SB AND DB JACKET

16. SB AND DB JACKET
Single vs. Double Breasted Suit Jackets
Presented By: Sunil Talekar
Single Breasted
1, 2 or 3 buttons
2 Buttons most common
Notch, Peak or Shawl Lapels
Notch lapels most common
Double Breasted
4, 6 or 8 buttons
6 Buttons most common
Peak or Shawl Lapels
Peak lapels most common

17. Sb and db jacket

18. English
cut
American
Italian

19. English
They have slightly narrower and defined shoulders with higher armhole.
These suits are cut closer to the body.
Also called British Traditional
Coats have two side vents and they can be single or double-breasted
These suits are cut closer to the body.
English cut

20. English cut

21. English cut
SHOULDERS: VERY PADDED
LAPELS:WIDE , NOTCH
WAIST:TAPERED, THIN
POCKETS:NO FLAP, LOOK LIKE
“SLASHES”
VENTS: TWO VENTS AT THE BACK
PROS:STYLISH, AUTHORITATIVE,
FITS MANY SHAPES

22. American cut
SHOULDERS: less PADDED
LAPELS:WIDE , NOTCH
WAIST: straight lines, THIN
POCKETS:NO FLAP
VENTS: single went in the back
PROS:STYLISH, AUTHORITATIVE, FITS
MANY SHAPES

23. Italian cut
SHOULDERS: less overall
padding
LAPELS:WIDE , NOTCH
WAIST: jackets have
pronounced V-shape
POCKETS:NO FLAP
VENTS: single went in the back
PROS:STYLISH, AUTHORITATIVE, FITS
MANY SHAPES

24. TYPES OF JACKETS
WEDDING SUIT
TUXEDO
BLAZER
BUSINESS SUIT
CASUAL JACKET
SPORTS JACKET
TWEED JACKET

25. TYPES OF JACKETS
WEDDING SUIT

26. TYPES OF JACKETS
WEDDING SUIT

27. TYPES OF JACKETS
TUXEDO
TUXEDO
TUXEDO
TUXEDO
TUXEDO
TUXEDO
TUXEDO
TUXEDO
TUXEDO
TUXEDO

28. TUXEDO
TUXEDO

29. TYPES OF JACKETS
TUXEDO
TUXEDO
TUXEDO
TUXEDO
TUXEDO
TUXEDO
TUXEDO
TUXEDO
TUXEDO
TUXEDO

30. TUXEDO
The tuxedo is a standard in American formal attire and is a ubiquitous symbol of
celebration and special occasion for men of any and all levels of society.
It is the quintessential men’s attire for formal affairs and an obvious choice for all but
the most formal of weddings, galas, balls, formals, and high school proms.
The earliest references to a dress coat substitute in America are from the summer and
fall of 1886 and, like the British references from this time, vary between waist-length
mess-jacket style and the conventional suit jacket style.
The most famous reference originates from Tuxedo Park, an
upstate New York countryside enclave for Manhattan’s
wealthiest citizens.

31. TUXEDO

32. TUXEDO

33. TUXEDO
A Tuxedo (also known as a dinner
jacket or dinner suit) is a very specific
type of suit for special occasions.
This suit is required when an
invitation specifies Black Tie dress
code.
It is a formal evening suit that is
distinguished by the following details
.
Satin on the jackets lapels.
.
Satin on the jackets lapels.
Satin Covered Buttons.

34. A Satin Stripe down the edge of the trousers.
Traditionally a ‘black tie’ Tuxedo is black or
midnight blue. However at Tailor Made London
you can choose from a wide range of fabrics to
choose the perfect colour for you. We also
provide white dinner jackets for ‘white tie’
events.

35. TYPES OF JACKETS
TWEED JACKET

36. One of the most desirable wool textiles in the world, Harris Tweed, is produced in the
Outer Hebrides of Scotland; on the one island with two names, separated only by a
mountain range - the islands of Lewis and Harris.
TWEED JACKET
The story begins with pure virgin wools which are blended together to gain the
advantages of their unique qualities and characteristics
Although the wool used to make Harris Tweed is principally taken from flocks reared
on the mainland of Scotland, in the early summer the island communities join
together to round up and shear the local sheep to add their locally reared wool to the
mainland clip

37. BLAZER

38. TYPES OF JACKETS
BLAZER
Blazers are also a type of sports
jacket.
They are traditionally composed of
navy wool with metal buttons.
However, more casual blazers may be
made of cotton with plastic buttons.
Dressier blazers will have sharp padded
shoulders
more casual blazers will have soft
shoulders.
Blazer pockets are typically a flapless
patch pocket,

39. BUSINESS SUIT
REAL BUSINESS SUITS COME IN THREE COLORS: BLACK, BLUE, AND GREY.

40. BUSINESS SUIT
a plain matching jacket and trousers (or skirt), as worn by office workers.

41. A business suit is, in its most basic form, a jacket and pants set made from matching
material.
It's thought to have originated from country wear first worn in England.
It should be noted that in the United Kingdom (UK), suit pants are known as trousers.
The business suit was once only a man's garment
Women's business suits may feature a skirt rather than pants.
Business skirts must never be too short; they may be about knee length.

42. TYPES OF JACKETS
SPORTS JACKET
Because sports coats do not have to
match a pair of trousers, they are
available in a multitude of fabrics,
including: staid navy wool, camel hair,
madras, corduroy, and plaid.
Sportscoats were originally used for
sport, especially hunting.
Because of this, they are typically made
with a thicker fabric than most other
lapelled jackets, and are normally made
of tweeds or other thick wool fabrics.
They

43. TYPES OF JACKETS
CASUAL JACKET

44. 1. Padded sleeve head roll
2. Floating chest piece
3. Woven chest canvas with horse hair
4. Felt padding
5. Woven forepart canvas
6. Taffeta lining
7. Lashed hems
1. Under collar Melton
2. Self shoulder padding
3. Pad stitched lapels
4. Welted breast pocket
5. Slanted double jetted pocket
6. 4 kissing cuff buttons
7. Back vents

46. blazer sports unconstructed

48. One button
one-button jackets should always be buttoned
while standing
the top button on a two-button jacket should
always be buttoned, while the bottom should
never be buttoned
the center button on a three-button jacket
should always be buttoned. do not button the
top and/or/bottom buttons
ALWAYS unbutton your [single breasted suit]
when sitting! just remember to button it back
correctly when you stand back up

49. 2X1 – the only cool/acceptable 2X1 suits are
smoking jackets, so opt out of regular suiting in
a 2X1 (always fasten the bottom corner button
of these)
4X1 and 4X2 – i also advice against 4X1 jackets
as they have the ability to emphasize the gut-
stick to the 4X2 which will keep you looking
streamlined (since there is no middle button,
fasten the bottom corner button, and for the
4X2, fasten only the middle button)
6X1 and 6X2 – don’t wear a 6X1, or you’ll have
a blast to the past moment to the bad part of
80s fashion. the 6X2 is much more classic.
(again, i repeat.. only fasten the middle button)
all in all, go for the 4X2 or 6X2 double
breasted, and fasten only the middle button!

51. Two button

53. BUTTON RULES