I’m standing with my surfboard on the beach in Pichilemu, Chile. It’s January—the height of the Southern Hemisphere’s summer—the sun is out, and there’s a near-constant breeze rolling in off the Pacific Ocean. A series of black-sand coves frame the main attraction in these parts: Punta de Lobos, a left-hand point break that curls gracefully (in gentle conditions) around an outcropping of jagged rock.