2. Prepared By : Mazadul Hasan sheshir
ID: 2010000400008
13th Batch (session 2009-2013)
Department : Wet Processing Technology
Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.com
Blog : www. Textilelab.blogspot.com (visit)
Southeast University
Department Of Textile Engineering
I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Bangladesh
Prepared By :

3. Total Textile Process at a Glance

4. Fabric Cutting
 To make a complete garments, cutting is necessary. It means to cut
out the garment pieces from lays of the fabric with the help of
cutting templates. In garments industries fabric is cut from lay
and spreading with accuracy and properly which is termed as
fabric cutting.
• Object:
 To separate fabric parts from the spread of the lay according to
the dimension of the marker
• Requirements Of Cutting:
 Precession of cut
 Clean edge
 Infused edge
 Consistency in cutting
 Support of the lay

5. Types of Cutting Method
 Fully Manual
 Hand operated scissor
 Manually Operated Power Knife
 Straight knife
 Band knife
 Round knife
 Die cutting
 Notcher
 Drill
 Computerized Methods Of Fabric Cutting
 Computer controlled knife cutting
 Cutting by Laser beam
 Cutting by Water jet
 Cutting by Plasma torch

6. Hand Operated Scissor
• Features:
 First & oldest method of fabric cutting
 Used for cutting one or two plies of fabric
 Available to cut the fabric from left to right or right to left
 Can be cut by scissor
 Needs more time & contain high cost
 Used in tailoring & household purpose to cut fabric

7. Straight Knife
• Features:
 The elements of straight knife consists of:
1. An electric motor
2. Stand
3. A base plate usually on rollers
4. Handle
5. Knife
6. Knife Guard
7. Wheel
 Knife is driven by electric power
 Grinding wheel is present to sharp the knife during cutting
 Blade edge: straight edge, wave edge, saw edge, serrated edge
 Straight edge is mostly used
 Blade stroke 2.5 to 4.5 cm
 Can cut heavy fabric such as canvas & denim

8. Straight Knife
• Working Principal:
 Two kind of powers are required to operate a Straight Knife
 Motor power drive the reciprocating knife
 Operator power drives the knife through the lay
 The motor power needed is determined by
 Height of the lay
 Construction of the fabric
 Curvature of the line being cut
 Stroke of the blade
 Greater power of the motor, greater blade movement to cut the
fabric

9. Straight Knife
• Advantage:
 Comparatively cheap & transferred easily from one place to
another place
 Higher lay of fabric can be cut easily
 Round corner can be cut more precisely then even round knife
 Production speed is very good & fabric can be cut from any angle
• Disadvantage:
 Some time deflection may occur due to the weight o the motor
 Knife deflection is high in risk, when lay height is too high
 Sometime accident may happen

10. Different Types Of Knife
Round Knife:
Straight Knife:
Wave knife Straight knife Notch knife

11. Band Knife
• Features:
 Band knife comprises a series of three or more pulleys, powered by
electric motor
 Cutting knife is endless in shape & flexible
 Blade is usually narrower then on a straight knife
 This method m/c is stationary but fabric is moveable
 This is like saw mill cutter

12. Band Knife
Advantage:
Used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is
required
Extensively used to cut very sharp corners small parts
such as collars & cuff
Used more in men’s wear than ladies wear
Intensively risk of accident is low
Possible to cut 90˚ angle of the fabric
Disadvantage:
Work load is high as m/c is stationary & fabric is
moveable
Not suitable for cutting large amount of garments parts
Not possible to cut fabric directly
Fabric wastage is high
Power loss is high

13. Round Knife• Features:
 Element of round knife:
 Base plate & Electric motor
 Handle for the cutter to direct the blade
 Rotating circular blade
 Blade diameter varies from 6-20 cm
 Blade is circular
 Blade is driven by electric power
 Circular knife is driven by 1000-3500 cm
•

14. Round Knife
Advantage: Suitable for single ply cutting as well as multi-
layers (say 20-30 layers)
Suitable for small scale cutting
Suitable gentle curve cutting
Easy to operate
Useful for cutting layer parts of a garments
Disadvantage:
Not suitable for cutting very curve lines in higher no. of lays
Not suitable for higher production
Possibility of accident is high
Difficult to cut small component
Needs skilled operator

15. Die Cutting
• Features:
 Mainly two types of die cuttings are available namely: Presses &
Clickers
 Main parts of all die cutting m/c are Blade, Ram Head, Die,
Motor & Operating System of Ram
 Die is made by metallic strip
 Most useful to cut sharp & small parts

16. Die Cutting
Working Principal:
Die is prepared with metal strip according to the shape of
pattern
Die press generally has a cutting die just penetrates the
cutting pad in order that the fibers of the lowest ply are
completely separated
For die cutting, the spreader spreads a lay to the required
placement of dies
The spread is cut into sections to allow transport to the
cutting pad
The gap between two dies 2-3 mm are placed when die is
taken to cut fabric lay

17. Die Cutting
• Advantage:
 Extensively used to cut sharp corners of small parts of dress
accurately
 Most useful to cut at any shape or any angle
 Comparatively less time required
 Best method of cutting knitted fabric
• Disadvantage:
 Fabric loss is high due to the need of block of fabric lay
 High labor cost
 To change the style quickly is impossible
 Difficult to cut large components of dress

18. Notcher Cutting M/C
Features:
Special type of cutting m/c & used in special case
Used to cut notch in the edge of some components
The invention of notcher m/c was done to make notch
The notch can be made in U-shape or V-shape

19. Notcher Cutting M/C
Advantage:
Special type of cutting m/c & used in special case
Useful to cut small notch to the fabric
Most useful to make consistency in notching
Disadvantage:
Only used to make notch
Thermoplastic fiber can not cut by this m/c
Time loss
Use of the m/c is limited

20. Drill Cutting M/C
Features:
Needed to mark on the end of components of dresses especially for
pocket & dart setting
This m/c contains a motor, base plate, drill, & spirit level
For tightly woven fabric, making of hole by drill is permanent for long
In hypodermic drill some color is sprayed along with the hole so that it
can easy to find the marked place

21. Drill Cutting M/C
Advantage:
Needed to mark on the end of components of dresses especially for
setting pocket & dart
Make the hole permanently for long time
Disadvantage:
Only used for making hole in the fabric especially for setting pocket &
dart
For loose woven fabric it can not make the hole permanently for long
time

22. Computer Controlled Knife
Cutting
Features:
This method provide the most accurate possible cutting at high speed
Marker is not necessary to put over the fabric lays during cutting
Cutting knife is oval shaped & very hard. Sharpness is also high & blade
is made of stainless steel
Cutting knife itself moves according to the direction of computer
memory
This m/c is CAM system m/c & works through CAD system

23. Computer Controlled Knife
Cutting• Advantage:
 Very fast cutting operation
 Very active cutting by computer controlled system
 Suitable for very large scale production
 Speed of can be controlled
 Intensity of accident is low
 No need of marker
 Fabric can be cut 6-8 times than manual method
 Less labor cost
• Disadvantage:
 Very expensive m/c
 Higher maintenance cost
 Skilled manpower is required
 If correct disc is not loaded in the computer, error will
be indicated

24. Cutting By Laser Beam
Features:
This method, fabric is cut by a ray of light in a very fine spot using a
laser
Radius of spot of light is 0.25 mm & high powerful
When the ray falls on a material, it generates heat on the material &
cutting is done by vaporization
Fabric is cut at a speed of 13 meter per min
Cutting head is controlled by computer

25. Cutting By Laser Beam
• Advantage:
 Very fast cutting operation
 Can be cut in a proper line as the cutting head
is controlled by computer
 As the fabric is cut by ray off high so that no need of sharpening
operation
• Disadvantage:
 Not suitable for cutting of multi-layer of fabric
 For thermoplastic fabric the cutting edge should be fused
 Very expensive cutting method

26. Cutting By Water Jet
Features:
This system, thin jet of water is passes through a nozzle in a very
momentum
Pressure of water is 60,000 pounds per square inch
Water is worked as like as hard & sharp knife which can easily cut the
fabric
A catcher in the bottom of fabric lays & it used with the same speed &
the same direction of water jet

27. Cutting By Water Jet
Advantage:
Higher cutting speed
There is no need of knife to cut fabric so that no need of
sharpening operations
Better to cut hard material
Disadvantage:
Not suitable for higher depth of lay of fabric
Cutting edge of fabric is wetted by water
Sometimes water spot should be seen in the fabric
Need of filtering & deionization of water
Need of controlling the sound of jet

28. Cutting By Plasma Torch
Features:
This system, fabric are cut by a thin through the nozzle which is made
by Argon gas
One or more fabric plies can be cut
Most useful for cutting single ply of fabric
Fabrics are cut by placing in a table, the surface (85%) of which must
be place in a perforated blanked place
Still now, this system is under research

29. Cutting By Plasma Torch
• Advantage:
 Automatic torch height control system
 Automatic oxy-fuel gas control system
 Automatic torch explosion system
 Pneumatic band clamping
 Standard auto-nesting package
 Easily networked
• Disadvantage:
 Synthetic fiber not cut
 Higher number of fabric lay is not cut
 Need higher skill operator
 Costly

30. Some popular garments cutting machine manufacturer

33. 1. Yarn Manufacturing Technology
Link : http://www.facebook.com/pages/Yarn-Manufacturing-Technology/485014954866808
2. Fabric Manufacturing Technology
Link : http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fabric-Manufacturing-Technology/459520217425605
3. Garments Manufacturing Technology
Link : http://www.facebook.com/pages/Garments-Manufacturing-Technology/472364799463126
3. Wet processing Technology
Link : http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wet-Processing-Technology-Dyeing-/468645219825404
4. Fashion-Design-and-Technology
Link : http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fashion-Design-and-
Technology/587655294583875?ref=ts&fref=ts
My Facebook Textile related Pages
http://www.textilelab.blogspot.com (Visit )