Industrial attachment of tusuka group

1. INDUSTRIAL TRAINING
Course Code: Tex -4036
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF

2. Abstract
The aim of industrial practice is to make us familiar with any kind of industry, the whole process going on the industry, its environment and also with the management system of the industry. As a student of Textile Engineering Department, the target of should be to know the production process, management system, marketing, production planning, quality assurance, compliance, mechanical-electrical department etc. It is because of the fact that to run any industry not only production department is obvious but also the capability of managing the whole system is an obvious matter. It is also a responsibility of an engineer is to develop the ongoing process into a better system to cope with the present competition. Thus a diversified challenge emerges in front of the manufacturer and other organizations. With a view to overcome this consequence a new generation of engineering graduates with leadership skills and management capabilities altogether are in demand.
We the students of Textile Engineering Department were sent to different industries and assigned to different tasks. I was assigned to TUSUKA JEANS. TROUSER & PROCESSING LTD.

3. Objectives of Internship
Objective:
The objective of the report is to learn about the overall activities of different departments in TUSUKA JEANS.TROUSER & PROCESSING LTD. A primary textile industry Academic knowledge is not perfect without practical knowledge.
Specific Objectives:
This intern paper has been prepared for fulfilling the following specific objectives:
 To enlarge the dimension of knowledge regarding garments manufacturing as well as others.
 To define and evaluate the performance of garments manufacturing Department as well as others.
 To observe the effectiveness of garments manufacturing as well as others.
 To get the additional knowledge in different sections of the organization.

4.  To interchange opinions of the officials regarding their organization.
 To know the economic condition of RMG in Bangladesh through Tusuka Jeans. Trouser & Processing Ltd.
 To identify the difference between theory (what we have learned from the text) and practice (what is really happened).
 To compare the improvement of the present condition of the Tusuka Jeans. Trouser & Processing Ltd. with the previous years.
 To mention the problems that Tusuka Jeans. Trouser & Processing Ltd. face in the process of production and delivery of garments & give some suggestions.
 To identify the strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats of the Tusuka Jeans. Trouser & Processing Ltd.
Table of contents
Chapter
Topics
Page No.
Introduction and project description of Tusuka Jeans. Trouser & Processing Ltd.
Introduction
project description
01-02
Company profile
03-04
Sister concerns
04-05
Buyers / clients
06-09
Human resource management
Organogram of company
10-12
Objectives of management system
13
HR Department
14-17
ADMINISTRATION Department
17
Social policy
18-20
Machine description
List of machinery, brand name, m/c specification, specialty of machine
21-35
Raw material & store
Types of raw material, sources of raw materials
36
Store, technical store, fabrics & accessories store, consumption, inspection method, shrinkage test, inventory system
37-41
Production planning,
Swatch making, GSM check, CAD,PATTEN, MARKER, section
42-81

5. sequences & operation
wise garments making and quality control & inspection (sample to finishing section)
Merchandising
Function of merchandising, sequences of merchandising, qualities of merchandising, costing, commercial & shipment documentation view( packing list, UD, BL,L/C)
82-89
Compliance issue
Compliance, different compliance issues, compliance item
89-91
Conclusion
92
Introduction:
Industrial attachment is an important and essential part of 4 year B.Sc. in Textile Engineering Course of PRIMEASIA UNIVERSITY. Actually industrial attachment is the practical experience for every Textile Engineer which is needed to be familiar not only the industry but also all over the necessary job related to continue in any industry. During student life a student cannot know about the practical condition so its badly needed for every student for attain for the industrial attachment .The Tusuka Group is truly an excellent industry from our point of view. All types of modern technology are well arranged here. Every section in here helps us so much by giving information during our training period which was unbelievable.
Specially merchandising section with management maintain the buyer managing System, a vital role for the companies smooth operation and development, we are

6. so satisfied and lucky student to complete our Industrial Attachment in Tusuka Jeans Trouser & Processing Ltd. We think this Industrial Attachment will be outstanding helpful in our future career life.
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PROJECT DESCRIPTION:
The Tusuka Jeans. Trouser & Processing Ltd. is a garments-manufacturing complex built on Neelnagar, Konabari, Gazipur, Bangladesh. It is the largest complex of its kind in South Asia producing high quality garments. Swiss, Italian, German, and French made manual and computer-controlled machineries have been installed in each of the divisions to deliver quality textiles, which meet the demand of European and American customers.
Major portion of turnover of the textile segment are for RMG units. Total fabrics requirement for the group RMG segment is around 50 million yards per year. To mention apart from cost advantage, sourcing from own backward linkage ensures quality of the product as well as lead-time advantage for the RMG segment.

7. Page 2
Company profile:
Overview:
Tusuka is in garment business since 1997, started as a buying house named "texel" focusing only the woven market. With the vision of specialized denim/jeans making, in 2001 Tusuka started its venture as jeans manufacturer with only 2 sewing lines and a small laundry to take the opportunity of globally growing demand of denim garment. After a year management found the necessity of a large world class in house laundry section to fulfill the vision. So from 2003 management started to expended the laundry and new sewing lines in its compound. Now Tusuka has the washing capacity of 45000pcs per day, with total 34 sewing lines specialized in denim garment making.
COMPANY NAME: TUSUKA JEANS.TROUSER & PROCESSING LTD.
CORPORATE HEAD QUARTER:
HEAD OFFICE
House- #50(5th floor),

8. Road-11, Block-F, Banani Dhaka-1213, Bangladesh.
Tusuka Jeans Ltd.
Tusuka Jeans Ltd. is located at Tusuka Complex. Konabari, Gazipur, 40 minutes drive from Dhaka International Airport. The unit consists of two buildings, which accommodate a total space of 105,000 Sqft.. There are 12 sewing lines in this factory and has got all specialized machines to produce 14,400 pcs 5 pocket jeans or 10800 pcs cargo jeans per day with a man power of 2250. The factory mainly uses machines of Juki, Kansai & Union Special brand to produce heavy weight pants.
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Tusuka Trousers Ltd.
This is factory with 12 sewing lines located at Tusuka Complex Konabari, Gazipur. It has all the specialized machines to produce 19,200 pcs 5 pocket jeans or 14400 pcs cargo jeans per day with 3000 man power. The total p production area of the factory is 1,63,000 Sqft..
MAIN PRODUCTION ITEM: TROUSERS & JEANS.
Sister concerns are:
* Tusuka Apparels Ltd.
This factory is located at Tongi BSCIC area which is 8 kilometers away from Dhaka International Airport . This is a new factory with 4 sewing lines and per day capacity is 6400 pcs of 5 pocket jeans or 4800 pcs of cargo jeans. Total man power is 850 and total area is 43,250 Sqft.

9. * Tusuka Fashions Ltd.
Tusuka Fashions Ltd. is located at Tongi only 7 kilometers from Dhaka International Airport . There are 900 employees engaged in the process of cutting, sewing, checking, finishing, quality control & stores to create the unique quality. There are 4 sewing lines in this unit and produces 6400 pcs of 5 pocket jeans pants or 4,800 pcs of cargo jeans pants per day & production area 42000 Sqft. .
Jeans & Polo Ltd.
This factory is located at Tongi BSCIC area which is 8 kilometers away from Dhaka International Airport . This is a new factory with 4 sewing lines and per day capacity is 6400 pcs of 5 pocket jeans or 4800 Pcs of cargo jeans. Total man power is 850 and total area is 43,250 Sqft.
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Parkview Dresses Ltd.
This factory is located at Tongi,Gazipur. This is a new factory with 4 sewing lines and per day capacity is 6400 pcs of 5 pocket jeans or 4800 pcs cargo pants. Total man power is 850 and total area is 55,000 sqft.
Tusuka Processing Ltd.
The washing plant is equipped to produce high quality stone, enzyme & dying of jeans & casual wear. It is situated at Konabari, the same complex of Tusuka jeans & Tusuka packaging. Computer operated machines produce consistent quality by the support of modern equipments to control water PH, steam pressure and temperature. The wastewater is pre cleaned & processes before discharged to the closed drainage system. The factory have 1106j sets machines from all USA & EUROPEAN BRAND like Tolon, Tulker, Milnor, Washex, Lapow, Celso, Euro stone with a wet process capacity 60000 pcs per day. The washing plant also has a dry process capacity of 40,000 pcs per day where we can do hand brushing, whiskering, grinding, tacking, pp spraying, laser and 3 dimensional whiskering on the jeans . Total man power is 3200 And total area is 140000 sqft.We also have waste water treatment plant (ETP).

10. Needle Art Embroidery Ltd.
This factory is located at Tusuka Complex. Konabari,Gazipur . This is a new factory which production area is 4000 Sqft. and Workers have 120 . There are 10 Machines – a) 9 Color (Capacity 73 Head) b) 7 Color (Capacity 38 Head).
Tusuka Packaging Ltd.
Produces quality export boxes for our products. The unit has 50 employee to produce approx 8,000 Pcs of medium size cartons per day. Spatiality: Staple Less carton, Virgin Carton etc.
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Clients:
Tusuka main customers are to given as under:
BUYER LOGO
**USA
• BIMINIBAY
• VF ASIA

11. • CORA
**CANADA
• JOE FRESH
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**FRANCE
• AUCHAN
• CAREFOUR
• SILVER JEANS
**SPAIN
• ZARA

12. • SPRING FIELD
 EL CORTE INGLES
 Page 7
**NETHERLAND
• WE
**SWITZERLAND
• CHARLES VOGELE
**ITALY

13. • ALCOTT
• OLIMPIAS
**SWEDEN
• H & M
• KAPPAHI
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**POLAND
• LPP
**NORWAY
• VARNER GROUP
EXPORT CHART:

14. Page 9
Organogram of all division:
Organogram of Head Office:

15. Page 10
ORGANOGRAM OF ADMIN AND PRODUCTION:

16. Page 11

17. GARMENTS MANAGEMENT: ORGANISATION STRUCTURE
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18. The objectives of human resource management system activities can be listed as follows:
 To ensure that the organization apply equal employment opportunities and other government obligations.
 To conduct job analysis to specify different requirements of jobs in an organization.
 To identify personnel requirements that led the organization to achieve its objectives.
 To develop and implement a plan that meet personnel and job requirements.
 To recruit employees needed by the organization in order to achieve its objectives.
 To select personnel in order to fill vacant positions within an organization.
 To provide orientation and training to the employees.
 To design and implement management and organizational development programs.
 To design and implement performance appraisal systems to evaluate employee performance.
 To assist employees in developing career plans.
 To design and implement compensation systems for employees.
 To mediate the relationship between organizations and its units.
 To design systems for discipline and grievance handling.
 To develop employee communication system.
 To develop employee health and safety programs.
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19. HR DPARTMENT:
Functions of Human Resource Department
A typical Human Resource Department is carries out the following functions:
Manpower Planning
It involves the planning for the future and finding out how many employees will be needed in the future by the business and what types of skills should they possess.
It depends on the following factors
 The number of people leaving the job
 The projected growth in sales of the business
 Technological changes
 Productivity level of the workers
Job analysis and Job description
HR Department is also involved in designing the Job analysis and Job description for the prospective vacancies.
A job analysis is the process used to collect information about the duties, responsibilities, necessary skills, outcomes, and work environment of a particular job.
Job descriptions are written statements that describe the:
 duties,
 responsibilities,
 most important contributions and outcomes needed from a position,
 required qualifications of candidates, and
 Reporting relationship and co-workers of a particular job.
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20. Determining wages and salaries
HR Department is also involved in conducting market surveys and determining the wages and salaries for different position in an organization. This decision may be taken in consultation with top management and the Finance department.
Recruitment and Selection
One of the most important jobs HR departments is to recruit the best people for the organization. This is of crucial importance as the success of any organization depends on the quality of its workforce.
Performance Appraisal
Once the employees are recruited, the HR Department has to review their performance on a regular basis through proper performance appraisals.
Performance appraisal is the process of obtaining, analysing and recording information about the relative worth of an employee. The focus of the performance appraisal is measuring and improving the actual performance of the employee and also the future potential of the employee. Its aim is to measure what an employee does.
On the basis of performance appraisal the HR Department will set up an action plan for each employee. If the employees need any training then he provided that.
Training and Development
HR department is constantly keeping a watch over the employees of the organization. In order to improve the efficiency level of the employees they
have go undergo regular trainings and development programmers. All trainings and development needs are carried out by this department. Training might include on the job or off the job training.
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21. Employee welfare and motivation
Happy employees mean a healthy organization. HR Department conducts various employee welfare activities which might include employees get together, annual
staff parties etc. HR department also reviews organizational policies and its impact on the motivation of the employees.
Addressing employee’s grievances
HR department is the link between the workers and the management. Employee’s grievances related work environment are usually entertained and resolved by the HR Department.
Labor management relations
For the smooth operation of any organization, it is crucial to have good labor management relations. HR department has to ensure that these
Relations are cordial. In case of any labor-management conflict the HR Department will play a vital role in bringing both management parties to the negotiation table and resolving the issue.
Implementing organizational policies
HR Department has to coordinate with line manager and see that the organizational policies are being implemented in a proper manner. Disciplinary action can be initiated against employees who are not following organizational rules and regulations. All these actions are conceived and implemented by the HR department.
Dismissal and redundancy
HR Department has to take firm actions against employees who are not following the organizational code of conduct, rules and regulations. This can result in the dismissal of the employee.
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22. Sometimes, an organization may no more require the services of an employee. The employee may be made redundant. HR Department has to see that organizational and government regulations are being followed in this process.
ADMINISTRATION DEPARTMENT:
Depending on the sector, the role may also include many of the following:
 using a variety of software packages, such as Microsoft Word, Outlook, PowerPoint, Excel, Access, etc., to produce correspondence and documents and maintain presentations, records, spreadsheets and databases;
 devising and maintaining office systems;
 booking rooms and conference facilities;
 using content management systems to maintain and update websites and internal databases;
 attending meetings, taking minutes and keeping notes;
 managing and maintaining budgets, as well as invoicing;
 liaising with staff in other departments and with external contacts;
 ordering and maintaining stationery and equipment;
 sorting and distributing incoming post and organizing and sending outgoing post;
 liaising with colleagues and external contacts to book travel and accommodation;
 organizing and storing paperwork, documents and computer-based information;
 Photocopying and printing various documents, sometimes on behalf of other colleagues.
Other duties may include:
 recruiting, training and supervising junior staff and delegating work as required;
 manipulating statistical data;
 Arranging both in-house and external events.
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23. SOCIAL POLICY:
Management Systems Assessment and Certification
The Tusuka Group is committed to the best human workplace practices. Their goal is to continuously improve their Human resource policies and procedures through education, training, communication and employees involvement.
BSI Group is the world‘s largest certification body. It audits and provides certification to companies worldwide who implement management systems standards. BSI also provides a range of training courses regarding implementation and auditing to the requirements of national and international management systems standards.
It is independently accredited and delivers assessments for a wide range of standards and other specifications including:
• ISO 9001 (Quality),
• ISO 14001 (Environment),
• ISO 22222 (Financial Planning),
• ISO 50001 (Energy management systems),
• OHSAS 18001 (Occupational Health and Safety),
• ISO/IEC 27001 (previously BS 7799 for Information Security),
• ISO/IEC 20000 (previously BS 15000 for IT Service Management);
• PAS 99 (Integrated Management),
• BS 25999 (Business Continuity),
• Greenhouse Gas Emissions Verification,
• SA8000 (Social Accountability) and
• Food Safety standards and specifications, including ISO 22000.
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24. • AS9100, AS9110, AS9120 Aerospace
• EU Emissions Trading System (EU ETS)
BSI certifies approximately 60,000 locations in over 124 countries and operates across the UK, CEMEA, Asia Pacific (including Japan and China) and the Americas.
Subsequent to an acquisition in 2006, BSI also offers a web-based integrated management system software service called Entropy Software, which specializes in helping large organizations manage risk and compliance issues.
BSI Group also offers a range of training services on how businesses can implement and audit management systems effectively.
SOCIAL BENEFIT Social, ethical and environmental impacts for our customers, employees and the world we're all living in. We believe that the real business quality cannot be achieved unless considering responsibilities for its The social responsibility that we undertake is not about only compliance with the minimum legal requirements, it is about improving the living and working quality for all concerns by trying to achieve above the standards.
As an essential part of our core values, we naturally undertake the responsibility to help people aiming to improve their living and working quality. Nevertheless, our competitive advantage of corporate reliability also relies on our social and ethical behaviors including followings:
•Buyers' code of conduct is strictly being followed in all areas with strong emphasis to human rights, occupational health and safety issues.
• Adherence to all local and international compliances as regards to work environment, physical environment and welfare of work forces
• In-house doctors provide round the clock medical services
• Child care rooms for the working mothers
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25. • Free lunch for employees to ensure proper dietary intake.
• Work forces' voices are being heard and considered through Workers Welfare Committee.
MACHINE DESCRIPTION:
Production machine description
PATTERN MAKING MACHINE:
1. High speed and accuracy supported by servomotor, straight lead rail and integrated circuit block.
2. Easy to operate.
3. Compatible with any CAD software.
4. Stable performance with long using lifetime
Marker drawing machine:
LECTRA PLOTTER & DIGITIZER SYSTEM
HARDWARE:
FL-DEGIPLAN 3 A0, FL-LC-FOOT, PLOTTER ALYS 60.
SOFTWARE:
MODARIS (MODE PRO V5R2): FOR PATTERN
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26. DESIGN, GRADING & EDITING
DIAMINO (MARKPACK V5 R2): FOR PRODUCTION MARKER MAKING
PATTERN Cutting Machine:
Brand name: WINDA
Product Description
Pattern Cutting Plotter
Winda series cutting machine is consisted by a fixed table, automatic feed-up device and operating software. It is widely used in garment, shoes and box-bag industry, etc. The high quality machine guarantees extreme precision and rapidity.
Features:
•Dual head for drawing and cutting, both head working separately;
•Fully automatic feeding device;
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27. •Cutting material thickness up to 2mm;
•High precision cutting to improve the quality of your product;
•Save cost, save time, save labor force (3~5workers), save energy, save material.
Sewing Machine Description
Which are used in sewing section:
1. Plain m/c
2. Over lock m/c
3. Flat lock m/c
4. Kansai m/c
5. Chain stitch m/c
6. Vertical m/c
7. Eyelet hole m/c
8. Two needle m/c
9. Feed of the Arm m/c
10. Zigzag m/c
11. Bar tack m/c
12. Button Holing m/c
13. Button attach m/c
14. Pocket welting or attach m/c
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28. # Description of the Machines Are Bellow:
1. PLAIN MACHINE:
Brand name : JUKI
Properties -
• One needle FIG: plain m/c
• Two tensioners
• Three guide
• One hook
• Two thread
• One bobbin case
• One magnate guide
Applications -
• Bottom hemming
• Belt top seem stitch
• Belt joint stitch
• Loop tack stitch
• Pocket joint stitch
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29. • Zipper joint
• Flap make
• Flap top stitch
2. FLAT LOCK MACHINE:
Brand name: JUKI
FIG: flat lock m/c
Properties:
• 4tensioner
• 3 thread
• Contain a holder
• 2needle
Applications -
• Zigzag stitch
• Knit hemming
• Loop making
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30. 3. OVER LOCK SEWING MACHINE:
Brand name: JUKI
Overlook stitching was invented by the MERROW Machine Company in 1881.An overlook stitch sews over the edge of one or two pieces of cloth for edging, hemming or seaming. Usually an overlook sewing machine will cut the edges of the cloth as they are fed through (such machines are called ‗SERGERS‘), though some are made without cutters. The inclusion of automated cutters allows over look machines to create finished seams easily and quickly.
Specifications -
• This over lock sewing machine is applicable to cover edging operation of thin, moderate and thick fabrics. Due to its automatic lubricating device.
• The machine operates perfectly and smoothly at low sewing tension, and perfect stable stitches even at high speed seaming.
• Suitable for thin, moderate and thick fabrics.
Fig: 4 THREAD OVERLOCK SEWING MACHINE
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31. Properties -
• 5 thread/4 thread/3 thread
• 4tensioner
• 2 knifes (up / down)
• 2 needle for 5 thread
• 1 needle for 3 thread
• 3 lopper for 5 thread
• 2 lopper for 3 thread
Applications –
*side seam
*armhole
*sleeve
4. BARTACK MACHINE:
Brand name: JUKI
The high speed bar tacking machine is designed for making reinforced stitching or various kinds of clothing such as suits/jeans and working clothes and also for eye let button hole tacking. Tack length can be easily adjusted.
Reduction gear and some mechanism simplified to get improved durability and reliability.
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32. FIG: Bartack m/c
Applications -
*To created Barack stitches in garments.
Bar tacking is a specialized sewing stitch designed to provide immense tensile strength to the garment or equipment it is used on. Bar tacking is commonly used on backpacks, tents, tactical gear, and other heavy wear sewn items where normally sewn stitches might give way at a crucial moment. In general, bar tacking is a sign of good quality, although the rest of the product should always be looked over carefully as well. When a sewing pattern calls for bar tacking, it indicates that the designer feels that section of the pattern is a critical area that needs extra reinforcement and following areas it can used.
• Loop attach
• Fly make
• Pocket side
• Front side
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33. • Back pocketing
• side seam
• In seem
5. KANSAI MACHINE:
Brand name: Kansai special
Kansai sewing machine is suitable for zigzag sewing, embroidery, abutted seam on light and medium material. It has excellent performance ratio and is conveniently arranged. It has bobbin winder integrated in the arm cover with in operator‘s view. It is suitable to sew underwear, corset, waist sections of ladies body suits, and swim suits.
FIG: Kansai m/c
Properties:
• 2needle
• 4 thread
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34. • 8tensioner
• 21 lopper point (used two lopper depends on distance of stitches)
Applications -
• Back yoke stitch
• Waistband stitch
 Front placket
6. CHAIN STITCH MACHINE:
Brand name: JUKI
Chain stitch is a sewing and embroidery technique in which a series of looped stitches form a chain-like pattern. Chain stitch is an ancient craft – examples of surviving Chinese chain stitch embroidery worked in silk thread have been dated to the Warring States period (5th-3rd century BC). Handmade chain stitch embroidery does not require that the needle pass through more than one layer of fabric. For this reason the stitch is an effective surface embellishment near seams on finished fabric. Because chain stitches can form flowing, curved lines, they are used in many surface embroidery styles that mimic ―drawing‖ in thread.
FIG: Chain stitch m/c
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35. Properties -
• 2needle
• 2looper
• 4thread & 4tensioner (back 2/front 2)
Applications -
• Back rise stitch
• Back yoke stitch
• Top seen ¼ stitch
7. Feed off the Arm m/c:
Buyer name: JUKI
FIG: Feed off the arm m/c
Properties -
• 2needle
• 2Lopper
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36. • 4 thread (Lopper 2/needle 2)
• Contains T & Magnate guide
• 3tensioner
Applications -
• Back rise stitch
• Inseam stitch
• Back yoke top seen
8. BUTTON HOLING MACHINE:
Brand name: JUKI
Buttonholes are holes in fabric which allow buttons to pass through, securing one piece of the fabric to another. The raw edges of a buttonhole are usually finished with stitching. This may be done either by hand or by a sewing machine. Some forms of button, such as a Mandarin button, use a loop of cloth or rope instead of a buttonhole.
Fig: EYE LET BUTTON HOLE MACHINE
Properties -
• 2 thread
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37. • 1 needle
• 2tensioner
• Contains bobbin case, hook & knife
Applications -
• To make button hole in garment
9. BUTTON ATTACH MACHINE:
Buyer name: JIKET
• This is a single needle chain stitch button sewing machine which inherits the excellent sewing capability and hassle; free operation.
• The four hole button sewing mode can be easily switched over to two hole button sewing.
• Number of stitches and stitching patterns are easily adaptable.
• The machine ensures consistence sewing performances even at maximum speed 1500 rpm.
• The thread trimming mechanism helps to produce beautifully finished seam with lesser thread consumption.
• Suitable for all kinds of shirts, suits and work uniform.
Fig: BUTTON ATTACHING MACHINE WITH AUTO TRIM
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38. Applications -
• To attach button in garment.
10. TWO NEEDLE MACHINE:
Brand name: JUKI
FIG: Two needle m/c
Application:
This type of machines is used for decorative purpose. It is specially used for sew woven fabric.
11. ZIGZAG STITCH MACHINE:
FIG: Zigzag stitch m/c
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39. BRAND NAME: JUKI
STITCH SYSTEM: STANDERD ZIGZAG
STITCH PATTERN:
MAX. SEWING SPEED: 5000 stitch/ min.
12. POCKET WELTING /ATTACH MACHINE :
Brand name:
FIG: Pocket welting m/c
It is specially used for sew pockets in coats , blazer and trouser/pant.
Sewing speed: 1000- 3000 stitch/min
Kind of welts: parallel double welt/ single double welt
Sewing length: min 18 – max 220 mm
Machine head: 2 needle lock stitch machine
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40. 13. BLIND STITCH MACHINE:
Brand name: ZUSUN
Fig: BLIND STITCH MACHINE
FEATURES –
 Blind stitch means stitch is not visible on fabric.
 It is formed based on chain stitch ( 1 thread) and lock stitch (2 thread).
 The hem and facing are folded back and caught by the needle.
 In this machine curved needle is used which penetrate straightly in the fabric.
 Sewing speed of blind stitch is up to 3000 stitch/min.
This machine is used for special purpose. It is used for sew bottom hem.
14. METAL DETECTOR MACHINE:
Brand name: BESTA CBS -400- M.A.S
 To detect metal in the accessories.
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41. RAW MATERIAL & STORE:
Types of Raw Materials:
Fabric: Woven , Knit Fabric
Accessories: Thread, Button, Zipper, Fuse, Hook, Clip, Elastic, Hanger, Poly, Hang tag, Main Level, Size level, C/O level, Tag pin, Patch level, Price Ticket, Button, etc.
Washing Chemical: Necessary raw materials required for stone, Pigment, Acid, bleach & Enzyme Wash These very according to the order of the buyer
Sources of Raw Materials:
Our Main Sourcing are Raymond , Arvind , Moufung, Lanyan, Shangdong , Atlantic Mills, PT Apac, Suntex, Taksang.
We are also doing around 10 % production with heavy twill, Canvas and Corduroy, which we are sourcing from China through our Hong Kong office including all type of trims.
We use chemicals from World best reputed chemical suppliers i.e , Garmon Italy, Officiana+29 Italy, TLP Holland, CHT Germany , Dystar Turky ,etc
Store:
It has big store room within fabric, trimming, accessories, box, readymade garments, contains difference types materials electrical and machinery accessories. Mainly it two sections store are:
Technical Store:
It contains various types electrical, machinery & materials which supply in many section of garments, such as
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42. Various types of sewing m/c and their parts
Guide Clamp Shuttle carrier
Zipper guide Belt Shuttle
Feed dog Hand glove spring
Folder Knife Bobbin winter
Guard Blade Screw
Lopper Roller covers Patty
Attachments sate Needle Finger
Bobbin Pressure feed Rotary hook
Bobbin case
Fabric &Accessories store:
Standard commercial name of fabrics
There are many types of standard commercial name of fabric i.e. are bellow
Denim, Twill, Rib top, poplin, satin. Sateen, Mesh, Pure coated, Linen, T/C, Nylon, Micro fabric, Polo pique, Polar fleece, Polyester, Canvas, Corduroy, Single jersey etc.
FABRIC CONSUMPTION:
L*W=RESULT%2.54%36%FABRIC WIDTH
FABRIC INSPECTION BEFORE INHOUSE:
Different types of fabric defect are shown on the fabric. These defects will be overcome by inspection method.
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43. Some defects are given below:
Foreign fiber, hole, slub / knots, stains / dirts, spot, splice, missing yarn, knitting defect, thick yarn, shading etc.
As Paramount has ventured into making a range of fabric inspection machines called Check MASTERS. This machine is used to provide the common fabric defects and inspection methods for checking the fabrics.
FIG: FABRIC DEFECT TEST M/C
The acceptability level for first quality fabric is usually established by mutual agreement between the buyer and the seller.
INSPECTION METHOD:
The inspection of fabric has two primary functions; first to classify the products according to the different quality based on the demands of the buyer/market or client and second to provide the information about the quality being produced.
During the inspection the fabric may be found to contain different defects. The defects depending on the magnitude, frequency of occurrence, position, importance, effect on the purpose, consequence in the further process etc., shall be classified and graded under various systems. During the inspection, the occurrences of various defects need to be examined and graded based on their magnitude and dimension as per the required system. There are two most common
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44. types of systems for grading the defects:
• 4 – Point System.
• 10-Point System.
But 4- point system is followed for fabric inspection by making blanket in the ORIENT GROUP.
4 – Point system:
It is an inspection method used for the visual checking of fabric quality; faults are scored with penalty points of 1, 2, 3 and 4 according to the side and significance. The 4-point system, also called the American Apparel Manufacturers‘ Association (AAMA) point-grading system for determining fabric quality, is widely used by producers of apparel fabrics and by the Department of Defense in the United States and is endorsed by the AAMA as well as the ASQC.
Shrinkage test:
Testing time: After dryer or before compacting.
Equipment used: Shrinkage board, shrinkage scale, measurement tape, scissor, washing machine, detergent.
Lengthwise shrinkage = (-ve) %.
Lengthwise extension = (+ve) %.
Test method: ISO 6330:2000.
Shrinkage tolerance: ±5%.
The fabric is cut according to the shrinkage board. Then the fabric is washed by washing m/c with PCLF for 60 min. at 40. Then the shrinkage% is determined by the shrinkage scale.
Note: before in-house fabric inspection and shrinkage test must be done.
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45. IN HOUSE CONTROL FABRIC INSPECTION REPORT 
Fabric accessories
There are many types of fabric accessories are used in garments manufacturing sectors, which are below-
Thread, Button, Rivet, Zipper, Fuse, Hook, Clip, Elastic, Hanger, Poly, Hang tag, Main Level, care level, Twill tape, Velcro tape etc.
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46. FIG: FABRIC ACCESSORIES & TRIMMINGS
THREAD CONSUMPTION:
Total garments quantity*thread quantity% count wise thread quantity = total cone
Others accessories are counted by yards, pcs.
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47. PRODUCTION PLANNING, SEQUENCES & OPERATION:
Swatch Making:
Swatch making is more important work garment sector. In line to line m/c to m/c work continue according to swatch card.
A card which contains garment making fabric and fabrics accessories such as – threads, buttons, elastics, level, japers e.g. . These types of card are called as swatch card. E.g. in bellow-
Swatch card contains following items–
• Fabric
• Buttons
• Threads
• Levels
• Hocks
• Elastics
• Zippers, etc.
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48. GSM check:
Before sample making GSM check should be done.
The procedure for fabric weight test of finished fabric:
M/C used: G.S.M. cutter.
Frequency: Every order.
Procedure: 3 sample pieces are cut with G.S.M. cutter. Find their average wt.
• Gram per square meter (GSM)= Average wt.*100
• Ounce per square meter (oz./yd2)=G.S.M.*0.0296
Performance std.: According to buyer‘s given std.
In case of non-conformity:
• To increase G.S.M.: Reduce width mechanically.
• To decrease G.S.M.: Increase width mechanically
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49. Sequence of garment manufacturing processes:
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50. CAD, Pattern & Marker Department:
CAD:
Computer-aided design (CAD) is the use of computer technology for the design of objects, real or virtual. CAD often involves more than just shapes. As in the manual drafting of technical and engineering drawings, the output of CAD must convey information, such as materials, processes, dimensions, and tolerances, according to application-specific conventions.
CAD may be used to design curves and figures in two-dimensional (2D) space; or curves, surfaces, and solids in three-dimensional (3D) objects.
Patterns belonging to all models were prepared according to the steps shown below;
•Main size pattern preparation,
•Grading of main size patterns,
•Different sizes separated by copying nest sizes on transparent pattern papers,
•Cardboard patterns obtained by transferring these transparent patterns on cardboard.
Two methods were applied to obtain the findings in the research, the manual method and the CAD method. These were determined separately for the manual and CAD working method.
Either of the two procedures stated below can be followed to work the model with the CAD system:
1- Digitizing the main size patterns after preparing them manually,
2- Preparing from the beginning of the main size patterns using CAD.
Two procedures were followed to obtain findings in the research:
The stages and procedures for the manual working method are shown in Table 1.
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51. The stages and procedures for the CAD working method are shown in Table 2.
** Table1. Stages and procedures for the manual working method
NUMBER OF STAGE
STAGES
PROCEDURES
1.
Main size pattern preparation
A. Measurement check
B. Checking of face to face sewing places
C. Main size pattern correction
2.
Main size pattern checking and correction
3.
Putting necessary allowances on patterns
A. Production gathering allowances B. Shrinkage allowances C. Seam allowances
4.
Main size, pattern size setting
5.
Size set patterns check and correction
A. Measurement check B. Checking of face to face sewing places C. Correction of size set patterns
6.
Arrangements prior to marker making
A. Separation of sizes of nested patterns B. Cutting of patterns on transparent papers C. Checking of patterns on transparent papers D. Correction of patterns on transparent papers E. Transferring patterns on transparent papers to cardboard F. Checking the patterns on cardboard G. Correcting the patterns on cardboard H. Cutting the patterns on cardboard
7.
Marker making and correction
Fabric and rib marker making
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52. **Table 2 Stages and procedures for the CAD system working method.
NUMBER OF STAGE
STAGES
PROCEDURES
1.
Main size pattern preparation
A. Main size pattern preparation manually B. Digitizing main size patterns
2.
Main size pattern checking and correction
A .Measurement check B. Checking of face to face sewing places C. Main size pattern correction
3.
Putting necessary allowances on patterns
A. Production gathering allowances B. Shrinkage allowances C. Seam allowances
4.
Main size pattern size setting
5.
Size set patterns check and correction
A. Measurement check B. Checking of face to face sewing places C. Correction of size set patterns
6.
Arrangements prior to marker making
A. Model file preparation B. Order file preparation
7.
Marker making and correction
A. Fabric and rib marker making B. Fabric and rib marker check and correction
8.
Marker plotting
A. Fabric marker plotting B. Rib marker plotting
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53. Pattern:
An ornamental design in a fabric Pattern may be produced either by the construction of the fabric by applying designs, by other means for printing, embossing or embroidery.
Marker:
It is a thin paper which contains all the necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a particular style of garments. It gives special instructions for cutting. It can be done both manually and computerized method.
In computerized method all information‘s are stored in the pre-fashioned data file and an operator helps the computer to make the best choice.
Maker width is taken according to the fabric width. Fabric spreading should be done by taking the guideline from maker width.
Points should be considered before maker making:
• Fabric width must be higher than maker width (1/2‖).
• Fabric length must be higher than maker length (1‖+1‖).
• When pattern pieces are laid down on the layer of fabric, the grain line should be parallel to the line of the warp in a woven fabric and Wales in knit fabric where pattern pieces are laid across the layers, the line is kept parallel to weft / course.
• All the pattern pieces of a garment should be alone the same direction when laid down on an asymmetric fabric.
• Length of cutting table should be considered.
• Plan for garments production should also be considered.
• For the efficient marker, it is required to ensure the following things:
• One should be easily see the full length.
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54. • To know about the appropriate width.
• The marker starts with the large pattern pieces. Then fits the smaller pieces in the gap of the larger pieces. Thus the fabric wastage is minimized and efficiency is increased.
• After that the patterns are shuffled in various directions to reduce the marker length. It also helps to increase maker efficiency.
• Plan for garments production should also be considered.
• For the efficient marker, it is required to ensure the following things:
• One should be easily see the full length.
• To know about the appropriate width.
• The marker starts with the large pattern pieces. Then fits the smaller pieces in the gap of the larger pieces. Thus the fabric wastage is minimized and efficiency is increased.
• After that the patterns are shuffled in various directions to reduce the marker length. It also helps to increase maker efficiency.
HOW TO MAKE A GARMENT WITH SECTION WISE:
1. Sample section
2. Cutting section
3. Sewing section
4. Washing
5. Finishing section
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55. *Sample section: Sample making is one of the most important activities in the garment manufacturing process. The manufacturer always needs at least a sketch of the garment, original patterns, specification and the designer’s sample to make high quality sample garments at the contractor’s factories. Garments factories are used different name used for different types of samples. In the sample departments of garment factories different type of sample are made for different purposes. TYPES OF SAMPLE 1. Proto Sample 2. Approval Sample 3. Fit Sample 4. Size set Sample 5. Reference Sample 6. Offer Sample 7. Salesman Sample 8. Photo Sample 9. Pre-Production Sample 10. Production sample 11. Shipment Sample Proto Sample: Proto sample is the initial sample made by the manufacturer as per as the details of the export order, and send to the buyer, to check weather the styling of the garment is ok as per the requirement of the buyer. Proto Sample can be made in alternative fabric & accessories, which is not with the original fabric and accessories. That is as per the sketch & space in the production order (P.O) sheet).
Approval sample: The manufacturing must produce sample prior to communication of the mass scale production of a particular style. The number of samples required, vary from buyer to buyer. Most of the time
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56. buyers ask for 3-5 samples from the manufacturer. When constructing these samples the manufacture’s instruction should be followed. The original patterns, original sample & the specification are required to produce these samples. After constructing these samples manufacturer should send them to the buyer or to the agents to get the approval for the mass production. There are two main types of approval samples and they are known as:  Fit approval samples  Size series samples. When an order is placed and confirmed, the manufacturer has to produce samples for the buyer. The required size of the samples is generally given by the buyer. If the size of samples is not given the middle size of the order range is taken as the appropriate size. That is if an order is given for a range of sizes, then the sample garment is made from the middle size. The samples produce for the given size or the middle sizes of the order are known as fit approval samples. Once fit approval samples are approved by the buyers, request for samples in all the sizes of the order before the mass production starts. Then they are in a position to see the quality of the samples of all size of the order. These samples are known as size series samples. Even if there is no such request from the buyer, it is batter to produce to size series samples for use within the factory. Then they can identify the problem that might occur, when they produce different size in the mass production. Fit Sample: Fit Sample is made by the manufacture (exporter) and sends to the buyer, to check if the fittings of the garments are ok or not as per the requirement of the Buyer. Unusually the Fit sample is made in alternative Fabric & accessories & it is made, which ever comes at the middle of the export order sizes. For example: If the export order sizes are, S, M&L, the Fit Sample will be in M size. Size Set Sample: Size set sample contains all the size of the export order contains sizes small, medium, large size. Then the size set is Page 51

57. sample will contain all the size, the sample S are made by grading the M size sample. Alternative fabric & accessories can make this Sample. PP Sample (Pre-Production sample): original fabric & Accessories make PP Sample, and this sample is made just before the Bulk production. This sample represents the original garment to be made in Bulk production. The buyer checks the PP samples & after the Buyer gives approval on PP sample, and then only the manufacture goes for bulk production of the export order. PP sample should include all the colors of the style. Production Sample: Production Sample is taken from production unit, by the bulk production is continuing, production sample represents the original production pieces to be exported to Buyer. Usually the exporter send production sample to Buyer once only, during the Bulk production, But in some cases where the export order quantity is large enough for single style for example incase of Buyer – Wal-Mart, The production samples were sent three times during the Bulk production. First Sample sent during 20% to 30% of Bulk production. Second fit sample during 50% to 60% of Bulk production Third production sample during 70% to 80% of Bulk Production. Reference sample: Reference purpose when produce the extra sample is called reference sample. When we produce the approval sample then we have to produce an extra sample for reference purposes in the factory, Reference sample is also called keep sample. After getting the approval from buyer, the reference sample can be released for mass production. When releasing the reference sample for mass production all this comment made by agents and or by the buyer must be attached clearly to the reference samples. The sample kept in the sample department until getting the approval from the buyers after inspecting the approval samples. Offer Samples: If the factory wants to attract new buyers, they have to be won by showing samples of garments that the manufacturer can offer. For
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58. this purpose they produce on their own, samples of new designs. These samples are known as offer samples. The ultimate objective of producing these offer samples is to attract new buyers to find new markets. Shipment Sample: This Sample the manufacture keeps with them, covering all sizes & colors of the style of garments they exported. It is for the reference pieces, just to keep record for future reference. Merchandising chronological processes:-  -1st pattern (First sample)  -2nd pattern (Second sample)  -Approved sample and counter sample (three pace)  Sales man sample (For sale every chain store can take 20)  Photo / proto type sample (Original fabric & accessories are made)  Size set sample  Pre-production sample (production running in that time merchandiser take)  Production sample  Shipping sample (Before shipping merchandiser takes some sample)
Sketch received from buyer to, manufacturers containing design including measurement of the style. Assimilating of diagram of net dimension on paper each and individual part which is called pattern when move with it throughout the whole manufacturing processes. After getting all the specs the sample is made and then it tested, inspected and other standard tested method when sample is ok, then it is sent to buyer for identify the faults of sample and point it. After that it returned to sample department .after rectify the sample is again sent to buyers. If it is ok, then start manufacturing processes.
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59. Flow chart of sample department
Sketch/design
(It is given by buyer for make sample and products are made according to that style of designed)
Basic block
(Without any allowance)
Working pattern
(To make of garment according to design)
Sample making
(Sample is made by sample man)
Basic manufacturing difference
(Critical path is identify)
Approved sample
(Sample approved by buyer)
Costing
(To esteemed the making charge, trimming, fabric required and profit)
*Cutting Section:
Fabric cutting:
The definition of fabric is very complex. In garments industries fabric is cut from lay and spreading accuracy and properly which is termed as fabric cutting.
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60. Production pattern
(To make production pattern for fabric cutting)
Grading
(It is done according to difference size)
Marker making
(To make marker according to various parts of production pattern)
Fabric spreading
(To spread the fabric for cut)
Cutting
(To cut the fabric)
Bundling
(To make the bundle according to various types of garment parts)
Requirements of fabric cutting:
• in cutting
• Precession of cut
• Clean edge
• Infused edge
• Consistency
• Support of the lay
Lay Preparation:
• Layers shall collect lay slip, cutting job card, lay sheet from the misusing person.
• Layers shall lay the fabric according to the lay slip details.
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61. • Layers shall collect rolls of only one shade and one width for the lay at a time, if any shade change is noticed then use separators- i.e. lay sheet has to be placed for identification.
• The cutting in charge has to decide upon the kind of lay such as – face-to-face, face to back, face up, face down, grain line, nap direction during the PP meeting stage upon the analysis of the garment.
• Use lay separator sheets to separate rolls of different shades if used in the same lay—the shade category should be mentioned on every lay separator sheet also.
Lay Precaution:
• During lying the layers should check the lay-to-lay shade variation & also center to selvedge variation as a part of online check procedure.
• QC shall inspect the lay for lay tension, width, length, grain line, nap direction etc.
• End wastage for lying of fabric shouldn‘t be more than 1 cm.
Bulk Cutting:
• Lay wise manpower requirement must be planned.
• Cutters must be trained on the methods of accurate cutting, especially for parts with deep curves. If possible diagrammatic representation of the direction of movement of the cutter needs to be illustrated.
• Cutters shall inspect the cutting machine for oil leakage, straightness of the blade, sharpening quality, evenness in sharpening of the blade, dust accumulation before cutting.
• Cutters shall cut lay as per the mark up using straight knife m/c and move the parts to band knife as per the discussion in PP meeting.
• QC shall inspect all the cut parts using patterns and initiate corrective action upon the detection of defect.
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62. • Prepare 1st cut bundle inspection report; notify fabric defects and cutting defects to FM/PM.
• QC should have a cutting checklist against which 1st bundle audit has to be conducted. Checklist should have details of allowances, tolerance included in pattern, notches and embellishments placement markings details.
• The size of the straight knife for cutting lightweight fabrics should be 6‖ only.
• Straight knife must be uniformly sharpened from top to bottom as frequently required,. This ensures even sharpening along the full length of the knife/blade.
Note: If sharpening of blade is uneven / inconsistent, it would result in uneven depth of notch marks and variation in cutting too…
• For Band knife cutting, patterns preferably made of tin should be used.
• The patterns used for band knife must be changed regularly upon monitoring the w wear and tear on the pattern, due to frequent usage.
Method of fabric cutting:
There are two method of cutting are follow
1. Manual
• Hand operated scissor.
• Manually operated power knife
• Straight knife
• Band knife
• Round knife
• Die knife
• Notcher
• Drill
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63. 2. Computerized
• Knife
• Laser
• water knife
• Plasma torch
Straight knife cutting machines are used in Tusuka Group. Because it has some advantages from others which are follows.
• Comparatively cheap
• Can be transferred easily
• Easily operated
• Round corner can cut smooth easily
• Fabric can be cut from any angle
• Directly garments components separated from fabric lays
Calculation for cutting man:
Fabric consumption calculation system:
The quantity of fabric which is required to produce a garment is called consumption. We can calculate and determine the consumption of fabric by the following two system:
i. Marker planning system
ii. Mathematical system
1. Marker Planning System:
In the system mentioned here studying the range of size, following six pcs of six sizes can be sorted out from size range. As in XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL Besides these
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64. we can choose three pcs of three size or twelve pcs of twelve sizes for our convenience. It depends on our intelligence and the size range; thereafter paper pattern can be made by grading to the above garments as per measurement sheet. Having made the paper pattern it should have to lay each parts of the paper pattern on a marker paper of similar fabric width. After marking the paper pattern if we measure marker paper to length wise, we will find an aggregate consumption of six pcs of garment. If the aggregate is divided by six, we will find a consumption of one pc garment as such we will find a consumption of one dozen garments from the above system calculations.
2. Mathematical system:
Whatever is the fabric consumption of a garment or whatever quantity of fabric is required to produce a garment is measured by mathematical system। Mathematical system is a system of rough estimation. Consumption of a sample garment or consumption as per measurement sheet is calculated mathematically by measuring the area of length and width of each parts of each pcs of garment.
Example:
Fabric Consumption Calculation of a Basic Pant:
Fabric width =60‘‘ -1‘‘
½ waist circular =46cm +8(seam allowance) =54cm
Front rise =28cm including WB +8(seam allowance) =36cm
½ thigh circular =36cm+6(seam allowance) = 42cm
Inseam length =82cm +3(seam allowance) =85cm
# Consumption formula = ( ½ waist cir x front rise) x2 + ( ½ thigh cir x inseam length) x 4÷ 36 ÷ 59 + waste %
= [{( 54x 36)x2}+{(42x85)x4}÷36÷59+5%] cm
= [( 3888+14280) ÷ 6.45÷36÷59+0.05] yds/piece
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65. = (1.326+0.05) yds/piece
= 1.72 yds/piece
= 1.78 yds/piece
Sticker Tagging:
After complete the cutting, the fabric is tagging by the sticker. The sticker tagging is an important part in this section. Due to fabric numbering or batching the sticker is tag on the cutting fabric surface.
Fig: Sticker Tagging for Batching
Numbering:
Sorting out the components according to size and for each size make individual bundle
Cutting no:3
Bundle no:2
Style no:1700
Quantity:10
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66. Color:Red
Parts name:Pocket
Size: S M L:8c
Serial no: 145-170=26
Fig: Sorting / Bundling
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67. Bundling:
After cutting the fabric lay and tagging the sticker, all the garments components in stack form is shorted out as per size and color. To avoid mistake in sorting, it is better to use code number on each pattern.
Bundle card:
The bundle card is most important in the garments section. In export qualify garments any type of shading and size mistake is not accepted, so it is used. Because buyer can not accepted any types of shading and size mistake garments.
Bundle number: 08
Company name: TUSUKA GROUP
Top : Sample
Color : Dark wash
Style no : 45721
Quantity : 10 pies
Figure of bundle card 26. Understanding the information in a Bundle card
Company name : Bundle card contains name of it manufacturing company.
Color: It contains names of color. Because garment has many types color such as Red, Black, Yellow, Blue, Green etc.
Style no : Company gives various types of style number. Normally it has five digit number ex. 45216, 54213, 58746.
Quantity: which amount of pcs of garment contains in a bundle, it is write on the bundle card. Ex- 10, 12, 14.
When sorting / bundling are complete, all the garment components are sending to the sewing section.
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68. *Sewing Section:
Flow chart of sewing section for working process:
Production pattern
(To make pattern for garment)
Grading
(It is done according to difference size)
Marker making
(To make marker)
Fabric spreading
(To spreading the garment for cutting)
Cutting
(To cut the fabric for garment manufacturing)
Bundling
(To bundle the various parts of garment)
Sewing thread inspection:
Thread inspections are able to move 140-160 km speed per hours during into the needle eye of sewing machine.
Strength of thread must be 2-32 due to friction between the threads and parts of machine.
Criteria of sewing thread:
The following are the tests done to identify thread construction.
Thread count
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69. Thread ply
Thread number of twist
Thread balance
Thread tenacity
Thread elongation
Sewing Quality Inspection in sewing section:
After finishing the cutting process the cutting parts come here for sewing. It is mainly an assembly section in the garments factory. Different parts of the garments joined together here and attach other accessories like button, zipper make a complete product.
Quality Control in Sewing Section: 1. Input material checking , 2. Accessories checking, 3. Machine is in well condition, 4. Thread count check, 5. Needle size checking, 6. Stitching fault should be checked, 7. Garments measurement check, 8. Seam fault check, 9. Size mistake check , 10. Shade variation within the cloth, 11. Wrong placement of interlining, 12. Creased or wrinkle appearance control
Defects occur in sewing section and remedies:
Skipped stitch: Some place in the stitch line where the stitch does not formed :
Cause:
1. Failure of needle to enter loop at correct time, 2. Needle deflection or bent needle, 3. Thread loop failure due to incorrect needle size for thread size, 4. Incorrect sewing tension in the needle, 5. Thread loop failure due to incorrect setting of thread control mechanism, 6. Flagging of fabric due to poor presser foot control.
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70. Solution:
1. The sewing tension in the needle should be proper.
2. Perfect needle size for thread size
Needle breakage defect: Scratch on the sewing product by the needle tip when several stitches are performed and needle is broken during sewing .
Cause:
1. Excessive tension in needle thread
2. Excessive needle heat, groove or eye blocked with melted fabric
3. Thread fraying at needle
4. Thread trapped at thread guide
5. Thread trapping at the base of cone
Solution:
1. The needle has to change immediately. If the scratch on the garments is very big or deep the product should be rejected.
2. Use stronger thread or adjust tension.
3. Reduce Increase thread guides and reduce disc tension
4. The overhead guide should be directly above cone or the thread package. Also ensure that thread package shouldn‘t get tilted during off winding.
Uneven (sleeve, armhole): sleeve or armhole edge fold has a measurement. Uneven means when the measurement is not same in all place. This occur due to careless operating by sewing operator
Solution: the uneven place seam has to open and again stitch with right measurement.
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71. Main level not in center point: Buyer gives instruction where to place the main level. If it is placing in the wrong area this is a fault.
Solution: Main level has to attach in the right place.
Oil mark in garments: Oil mark occurs from the sewing machine lubricants and spot is appeared on the garments.
Cause: During the sewing operation oil can accidentally slick out from the machine and drop on the fabric and spotted.
Solution: Spot lifter chemical use to remove the oil the mark of the garments. At first the spot lifting chemical spray on the garments spot then air blown by the machine. The spot remove.
Side seam not in line: Side seam are not at the side line. It may come forward or backward.
Cause: If the front and back part of the garments do not cut by correct measurement or operator make mistake of sewing the seam formation in the side come forward or backward from the side formation.
Solution: Cutting parts must have right measurement and operator have to be conscious about that. Sometimes it can recover by stitching again or it can be reject.
Seam Pucker: After sewing when the fabric is puckered in the seam area. It is the wrinkle, or corrugation of the sewn fabric running across the seam
Cause:
1. Fabric and / or thread instability
2. Poorly controlled fabric feed
3. Extension in sewing thread
4. Incorrect tension setting
5. Structural jamming or inherent pucker
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72. Solution:
1. Adjust feed timing and fabric control for maximum pulling of the fabric.
2. Check tension level in the thread, Sew with minimum tension possible. Always adjust bobbin thread tension first then needle thread tension.
3. Check if the coefficient of friction of the thread with metal is high.
Shade problem: It is the problem appeared when the two parts shade looks different in the garments
Causes: It is also may be a problem in cutting section where this parts made numbering mistake.
For the lack of experience or concentration of worker and if different parts are mixed by worker.
Solution: Shade problem parts are separate and actual parts are attached
Kacha problem: If unexpected parts are shown by the garments from sewing area then this problem is occurred
Causes: For lack of experience or concentration of worker.
Solution: The unexpected part is cut out precisely.
Stitch line uneven: Stitch line is not straight position; it is displaced from its line.
Cause: This fault is occurred by operator.
Solution: The stitch has to open and again sewing.
Non matching thread: Some times when sewing is done, the garments and the sewing thread looked shade variation.
Cause: If garments color and sewing thread does not match with color
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73. Solution: The sewing thread must have the same color with the garments. To ensure that before sewing the thread must check with the garments.
An example of basic pant production lay out is given below:
A GARMENT SEWING WITH LINE LAYOUT AND MACHINE LAYOUT:
PICTURE OF BASIC PANT:
BUYER : EL CORTE INGLES ( SPAIN )
BACK PART :
1. Back part tuck -> plain machine =1
2. Seam ->overlock = 1
3. Back part ticken -> plain machine= 1
4. Back bond rolling -> plain machine= 1
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74. 5. Back pocket tuck -> plain machine= 1
6. Bond joint -> 2 needle =1
7. Bond rolling -> plain machine= 2
8. Bond tuck -> plain machine= 2
9. Bond top stitch -> plain machine= 2
10. Seam joint tuck -> plain machine=1
11. Back pocket overlock ->overlock machine = 1
12. Back part tuck -> plain machine = 1
FRONT PART:
1. Seam joint -> plain machine = 1
2. Single fly + double fly + zipper ->overlock machine = 1
3. Zipper joint -> 2 needle machine = 1
4. High tuck -> plain machine = 1
5. Fly round -> plain machine =1
6. Double fly joint -> plain machine = 1
7. Pocket seam joint -> plain machine = 1
8. Pocket seam top stitch -> plain machine = 1
9. Pocket seam joint -> plain machine = 1
10. Front pocket tuck -> plain machine = 1
11. Front pocket overlock ->overlock machine = 1
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75. OUTPUT/ ASSEMBLY :
1. Belt tuck -> plain machine = 2
2. Belt make ->kansai machine = 1
3. Belt top stitch -> plain machine = 1
4. Belt cutting -> vertical machine = 1
5. Belt piping -> plain machine = 1
6. Inseam ->overlock machine = 1
7. Backrise ->overlock machine = 1
8. Sideseam ->overlock machine = 1
9. Loop make -> vertical machine = 1
10. Loop joint -> plain machine = 2
11. Belt joint -> plain machine = 2
12. Mouth tuck -> plain machine = 1
13. Care and size label joint -> plain machine = 1
14. Main and size label -> plain machine = 1
15. Belt tuck -> plain machine = 1
16. Belt hidden stitch -> plain machine = 2
17. Loop tuck -> plain machine = 3
18. Hem/ bottom -> plain machine = 1
19. Bartack ->bartack machine = 1
TOTAL MACHINE = 52
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76. WASHING SECTION:
1. Normal wash: • For 3 or 4 pieces garments • Softener 100-200 gm. • Silicone 100-300 gm. • For denim in case of normal wash any of the de-sizing and softener step is done.
2. Pigment wash: o Ionize hits pigments will be catalyzed at 300- 500 gm. o Water 70 litter. o 20-30 minutes o 2 rinse o 4 types of pigments are used o Cold water used to dissolve the color o Machine will start run by using 50 litter water. o Temp will start run by using 50 litter water. o 20 to 30 minutes to beat the color o Machine will start run by using 50 litter water o Temp will be color brightener are used 100 gm for 2-3 minutes o 2rinse o Dryer used to dry
3. Bleach wash o For denim 2 to 3 pieces o De-sizing agent used 150 gm and anti-stain agent used 200 gm. o 60 degree temp o 10 minutes o 2 rinse o Enzyme used 150to 200 gm and stone 5 kg o Time 30 to 40 minutes o 2 rinse will take 15 to 30 minutes o Bleach is used 1 kg o 5to 10 minutes o to destroy the smell of the bleach hypo is used after bleaching 300 gm for 2 legs for 1 to 2 minutes o Next acetic acid is used 100 to 150 gm.
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77. o 1 rinse o Softener is used 100 to 200 gm. o 2 minutes. o Dryer.
4. Enzyme + stone wash: • Desizing agent used 150 gm and anti- stain agent used 200 gm. • Temp 60 degree • Time 10 minutes • 2 rinse • Enzyme used 150 to 200 gm. And stone 5 kg • Time 30 to 40 minutes • 2 rinse • Softener 100-200 gm. • 2 minutes. • Dryer
5. Acid wash • Desizing agent 150 gm and anti-stain 200 gm. • Tem, 60 degree • Time 10 minutes • 2 rinse • Dryer Sand blasting and other dry process: Sand blasting is a mechanical process of faded affect formation on garments fade form heavy fabrics like denim and jeans, this process is followed by a wash of dying process. Aluminum oxide is used for sand blasting. These aluminum oxides are blown at very high pressure through a gun, the gun has a switch to start and stop flow of aluminum oxides. Garments to be sand blasted are placed on the bed of closed chamber. Then the gun is operated by hand, when the switch of the gun is operated, aluminum oxides from a feeding chamber through pipe and gun starts blowing. the blowing of aluminum oxides are done on the garments surface , the area of the garments fabric surface is instantly faded by the flowing action of aluminum oxide due to frictional effect of aluminum oxide the blow of the aluminum oxides on the garment fabric surface is controlled at 10 degree to 20
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78. degree angle. Higher the blowing angle, higher the fading affect and higher the risk of garments fabric damage.
OTHER DRY PROCESS: 1. Hand rubbing 2. Hand craping 3.Wrinkle 4. Grinding and destroy 5. P. P. spray 6. P. P. sponging
Washing Quality Inspection:
Washing process of garment is done to create wash look appearance. After washing the garments create a new looks which seems the new touch of fashion.
-Washing technique create new fashion such as tagging, grinding, destroy, Blasting, whickering, permanent wrinkle, deep dye, tie dye, p.p spray, hand crapping, p.pspoon zing etc. Which is also seems the best touch of garments.
-The main and important function of washing is to reduce size materials as a result the garment become size free and become soft hand feel.
-When these soft garments are touched then it seems to best touch of garments.
-To attraction the customers/Buyer by different types of Fashionable washing and market developments.
-Due to washing, shrinkage occurs in the garments. There is no possibility of further shrinkage of wash garments.
-Any dirt, spot or germ if added in the garments during manufacturing is also removed due to washing
Quality control in washing section:
1. Shade variation check.
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79. 2. Uneven check.
3. Maintain time schedule for each process.
4. Maintain exact temperature for each process.
Fault occur in washing and remedies:
1. Shade variation:
Shade variation is a common problem in washing process. One garments shade might be deep and another is light.
Cause: Selection of wrong recipe
2. Lot variation
Solution: If shade is deep then the garments again rewash and if it is light then re- dye the garments.
3. Wash hole: Before washing if the garments have any hole, it can be increased during washing process.
Solution: When any hole in the garments appeared, it does not process to washing.
4. Fabric may damage by excessive whickering: If fabric damage by whickering, to minimize it denim pen is used.
Solution: Mark on the garments where effect to create by the denim pen.
5. Destroying of the fabric: if destroying process done before washing it can damage the fabric.
Solution: So after washing and before P.P spray destroying is done, and then washes for a short time. So the garments get the desired effect.
6. Enzyme wash: Excessive enzyme use or excess time can change the shade.
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80. Solution: So appropriate amount of enzyme should use to maintain the reaction time.
7. Uneven problem: Any uneven problem occurs in the garments.
Solution: Denim pen or diamond pencil use to match with the desired shade.
*Finishing Section:
The process by which unwanted crease and crinkle are removed with the view of increasing smoothness, brightness and beauty of the garments is called pressing. In the garments industries it is called ironing. This process plays an important role to grow attractiveness to the buyers.
Materials used in garment Finishing:
Iron, Master cartoon box, Hanger, Size sticker, Elastic, clip, Poly bag, Inner cartoon box, Gum taps, Neck board, Full board, Tag pin, Tissue paper, Al pin, Hand tag, Ball pin, Back board, Blister, etc.
Flow chart of working processes in Finishing Section of orient Group is given bellow:
Button attach
(To attach button)
Loop cutting
(To cut the loop)
Inline check
(To check inside of a garment)
Top side check
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81. (To check top side of a garment)
Rivet, button check
(To check rivet, button attach)
Ironing
(To iron the garments)
Get up quality control
(To check all processes of garments making)
Measurement checking
(To measure all parts of the garments for accuracy)
Hand tagging
(To attach hand tag)
Folding / hungering
(To folding/hungering according to buyer requirement)
Shading
(To separate various shade of garments)
Packing
(To pack in the poly bag)
Ready for inspection
(To inspect garment)
Final inspection draws by 1st, 2nd/ 3rdparty
Cartooning
(To keep on cartoon of buyer requirements)
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82. Cartooning:
Cartooning is very important every production manufacturing company for final product shipment.
Types of carton:
DEPEND ON PAPER:
1. Khaki Carton Or Brown Carton
2. Duplex Carton
3. Box Carton
DEPEND ON STITCHING:
1. Stitching Carton
2. Non stitching /Gum Pasting Carton Or Metal Free Carton
DEPEND ON PLY:
1. 3 Ply Carton
2. 5 Ply Carton
3. 7 Ply Carton
DEPEND ON LINER:
1. Both Side Liner Carton
2. Out Side Liner Carton
DEPEND ON SIZE:
1. Master Carton
2. Inner Carton
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83. Carton measurement:
FORMULA:
CBM = L*w*H*TOTAL CARTON QUANTITY/1000000
Example:
Here,
Length: 60,
Width: 40,
Height: 40,
Total carton quantity: 5266 pcs
From formula = 60*40*40*5266/1000000
= 505.536 CBM
Finishing Quality Inspection:
This is the final section of the garments industry. Various types of fault check here. This is the important section where finally the product has to inspect and solve the defect of the garments.
Quality Control in Finishing Section:
1. Proper inspection of the garments including measurement, spot, dirt, impurities
2. Shading variation check
3. Smooth and unfold in pocket
4. In secured or broken chain or button
5. Wrong fold
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84. 6. Proper shape in garment
7. Properly dried in after pressing
8. Collar closing
Fault occurs in finishing section and its remedies:
Ironing problem: Some ironing problem occurred are giving bellow most8.3.1
Shoulder up down: During ironing if the shoulder side is not placed correctly. Causes: It is also the mistake of the worker.
Remedies: Shoulder placed correctly and ironing again.
Bottom up down: If top and bottom are not placed correctly.
Causes: For the lack of experience or concentration of worker.
Remedies: Bottom and top placed correctly and ironing again.
Puckering: Crease if brought in the fabric and ironing.
Causes: For the lack of concentration of worker if he ironing the garment on the crease area.
Remedies: Remove the crease from the fabric and ironing again.
Poor folding resulting poor appearance: Due to poor folding the garments Appearance looks odd or not appreciating.
Solution: The garments should fold properly according to buyer‘s instruction.
Incorrect packing: The packing should do by following instruction from the buyer.
Solution: The product has to pack properly
Size mistake: Different size sign are used in garment and lock pin label.
Causes: It‘s a mistake or lack of concentration of worker.
Solution: Place the lock pin which size are shown in the product.
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85. Barcode problem: If the main label and hang tag barcode are not similar. Causes: It‘s a mistake of worker.
Solution: Same barcode of main label and hang tag are placed.
So, final inspection is occurred by 3rd party for buyer requirements.
Final Inspection:
Garments are inspected by AQL. In this system samples are collected inspected by statistically from the lot size and will decide the lot of garments to be granted or rejected. AQL is mainly used in final inspection after garment making.
Acceptable quality level (AQL) sample inspection methods have been proven to be accurate over a long run. However, the quality level of merchandise at destination is sometimes lower than the per-shipment inspection results. This may be due to transport, handling, change in environment and/or reliability problems. Buyers are therefore advised to take this into consideration when deciding the AQL levels.
Defect Classification: The client defines the AQL and the maximum number of defective goods allowed in the sample size. Defects detected during visual inspection are usually classified within 3 categories: ―Critical‖, ―Major‖ and ―Minor‖
Critical: likely to result in unsafe condition or contravene mandatory regulation or reject by import customs.
Major: reduces the usability/function and/or sale of the product or is an obvious appearance defect.
Minor: doesn‘t reduce the usability/function of the product, but is a defect beyond the defined quality standard more or less reduces the sale of the products.
An Individual with defect(s) is called defective sample. In the inspection process, one defective sample is counted one for the most serious defect only no matter how many defects found in the said sample.
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86. Clients can specify what points are minor, major or critical in a defect classification checking-list together with the inspection criteria and product specification.
For Example: Total garments (lot Size) 1200 garments Sample size (selected for inspection) 80 garments AQL 2.5 / 4.0If the major defective found is 5 and minor defective found is 7 the total garments is "Acceptable". If the defective exceed (Above 5 major and 7 Minor), the total garments is Reject / Re-check.
AQL CHART
Category of inspection
FRI
(Final Random inspection)
Sample size level
Normal II
of shipment quantity AQL max.
Lot size
1.0
1.5
2.5
4.0
6.5
51-90
*13
+0
8
0
20
1
13
1
13
2
91-150
13
0
32
1
20
1
20
2
20
3
151-280
50
1
32
1
32
2
32
3
32
5
281-500
50
1
50
2
50
3
50
5
50
7
501-1200
80
2
80
3
80
5
80
7
80
10
1201-3200
125
3
125
5
125
7
127
10
125
14
3201-10000
200
5
200
7
200
10
200
14
200
21
10001-35000
315
7
315
10
315
14
315
21
200
21
35001 150000
500
10
500
14
500
21
315
21
200
21
150001 500000
800
4
800
21
500
21
315
21
200
21
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87. AQL max = Acceptable Quality level.
i.e.: maximum number of defective sample.
* = Sample Size, + = AQL number
FINAL INSPECTION REPORT:
An example of inspection by TEX ALLIANCE
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88. MERCHANDIZING:
The ―Merchandizing‖ is known to the persons specially involved in garments trade. The term merchandising has been derived from the merchandise. Merchandise means goods that are brought & sold.
The term Merchandizing may be defined as: Person who merchandising the goods, specifically for exports purposes. Garments merchandising means buying raw materials & accessories, producing garments, maintaining required quality level and exporting the garments within schedule time. From the above definitions, we can say that a person involved in garments merchandising needs a wide range of knowledge & skill to perform his job successfully. The job itself is technical and general as well.
Merchandiser is data bus between buyer & seller:
Merchandiser is he or she, who builds up a relationship with the buyer and acts as a seller. He or she plays a vital role in an organization in a sense that he or she bears more responsibility than other in regards to execution of an order. The responsibility which he bears on the job is as follows:
2. He or she represents as a buyer to a factory.
3. He or she represents as a seller to the buyers.
4. He or she inspects quality as a buyer(from the buyer‘s point of view)
5. He or she negotiates a price for the sellers
6. He or she looks at deal from sellers point of view
7. He or she looks into the business to flourish more in the future
8. He or she tries to offer the deal more competitive without compromising the quality
9. His or her object is to satisfy the buyers to progress more of the future business
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89. 10. His or her aim is to impress the buyer by means of:
Right products, quantities & qualities.
Right time & Honesty.
Function of a merchandiser:
# When an export order is placed to a merchandiser, He or she has to schedule the functions to execute the order perfectly on time. The major functions/steps of a merchandiser: 1. Procuring the garments order. 2. Procuring the raw materials. 3. Production of garments. 4. Shipments of garments. 5. Receiving of payment for garments. The steps are shown as diagrammatically: Page 83

90. Buyer Confirms an order to a Factory
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91. GENERAL SEQUENCE OF MERCHANDISING:
Inquiry
|
Sample development / buyer wants‘ the price
|
Price offer / sample offer
|
Price negotiation
|
Order confirmation
|
PROFORMA invoice (delivery, order details, bank details, quality, unit price)
|
Master L/C opening
|
Fabrics + accessories develop + approval
|
Fabric + accessories booking against L/C by back to back L/C
|
In house of total fabrics & accessories following with supplier for paid
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92. |
After complete the production arrange the shipment corresponds with commercial department
Qualities of a merchandiser:
 Good knowledge about fiber, yarn, fabric, dyeing, printing, finishing, dyes, color fastness, garments production, etc.
 Clear conception of the usual potential quality problems in the garments manufacturing.
 Good knowledge of the usual raw materials inspection systems & garments inspection system
 Knowledge of the quota system used in each of the production countries, duty rates, custom regulation, shipping and banking documentation etc.
 Right consumption knowledge of various goods
 Costing knowledge of raw materials
 Order getting ability
 Sincere& responsible
 Hard worker
Negotiation with buyers:
The most critical work is the procurement of garment export order. Normally garment export order is found from the potential garment importers called garment buyer. Anybody wants to collect garments export order, should be able to convince the buyer. When the buyer is convinced about garment production, garments quality, garments costing and shipment ability of a garments exporter, he or she can think about issuing garments export order.
Without clear confidence among buyer& exporter from both sides, may be a risky business deal. If a garment exporter can continuously deal with only three or four buyer with buyer‘s satisfaction, it will be sufficient enough to run garment production & garment export business smoothly round the year.
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93. A successful negotiation outcome does not generally occur through luck, but by following a clear process. The process reflects the different levels of knowledge of the subject of negotiation, various parties and the way they communicate at various stages in the negotiation. The following is an outline of steps essential to effective negotiation:
COSTING:
Costing of garment is a very necessary and important task. In this factory costing is carried out by the merchandising dept. Firstly, merchandiser contacts with the buyer and collects order. Then he is provided a sample from sample section according to the buyer‘s specification. The sample section also supplies the fabric consumption. Cost of the fabric is determined according to this consumption. Then he or she makes the costing of other raw materials, accessories, trimmings etc. He adds then all the production cost, transport cost, commission (buying house, C & F agent) and profit.
COMMERCIAL:
LC: Letter of Credit- Once the order is confirmed, buyer‘s bank issues a Letter of Credit (LC) to the manufactures Bank. With this LC, manufactures can start procurement of yarn, fabric, accessories etc. necessary for particular order execution.
• If the LC delayed from buyers end, it will impact on the delivery date and merchandisers need to follow this up with buyer to get the LC for on time delivery.
Back to Back L/C: To procure the yarn, fabric and accessories, suppliers need to open another LC for secondary suppliers bank based on the master LC. This secondary suppliers LC is called back to back LC.
Documentation for shipment:
Packing list
U.D
Commercial invoice
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94. Bank account
Bill of Lading
Standard, Measurement spec sheet/Product pack
Standards are provided by the customer and it could get vary from customer to customer. Merchandisers need to study the standard very carefully.
If any issues with any part of customers standard, this need to be share with customer before order confirmation.
Each style will be briefed with a product pack and all necessary information will be mentioned there along with measurement sheet.
Example: If the tolerance limit in measurement specs is too low compare to production feasibility, merchandisers need to inform this to buyer before order confirmation and need to settle down the acceptable tolerance limit by both parties.
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95. UD [Utilization declaration]
 UD-[Utilization declaration] suppliers need to submit master LC, back to back LC, bank certificate, BTMA certificate of yarn, Invoice of the yarn to get the UD from BGMEA/BKMEA. And to get the GSP form A, suppliers need to submit the UD and other necessary documents to EPB.
 This UD is mainly for the yarn procurement to show that the suppliers have procured the yarn for those particular orders.
Bill of lading:
A bill of lading (sometimes referred to as a BOL, B/L) is a document issued by a carrier to a shipper, acknowledging that specified goods have been received on board as cargo for conveyance to a named place for delivery to the consignee who is usually identified. A through bill of lading involves the use of at least two different modes of transport from road, rail, air, and sea. The term derives from the verb ―to lade‖ which means to load a cargo onto a ship or other form of transportation.
COMPLIANCE ISSUE Compliance: Compliance means comply something i.e. yield to the wishes another. The main aim of compliance is to ensuring the all labor rights and facilities according to buyer code of conduct. Different compliance issues which they are obeyed:  Personnel policies  Attendance and leave register card  Recruitment policy  Leave and holiday policy  Their weekly working hour not more than 66 hours including overtime in a week. Page 89

96.  They have the approved manpower list. Health & hygiene:  First aid ensures.  Medicine registers.  Maternity and pregnancy register.  Pure drinking water  Towel for hand dry. Safety:  Safety committee  Firefighting committee  Rescue committee  Broken needle register  Needle detector  Fire alarm & switch  Evacuation plan  Rubber mats to every iron man. Welfare:  Welfare committee  Day care center  Canteen facility Salary and wages:  Fix wages in considering minimum wages which is declared by the government.  Salary and wages given before 7th day of month. Physical security:  They have separate cargo entrance area (receiving and unloading) from the front side.  They do not keep any partially filled/ completed cartons on the floor at the end of any working day. They keep it to finished goods store. Education and training program: They arrange security training program on regular basis for all employee of the factory.
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97. Compliance item: Some example of compliances item are given below:  First aid box  Water paper  Toilet  Wash basin  Complain box  Evacuation plan  Exhaust fan  Emergency exit/light/ light set  Smoke detector  Fire extinguisher  Hose cabinet  Manila rope  Gas musk
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98. Conclusion
Now-a-days Textile field becomes very competitive & the buyer wants 100% quality product. For this reason it is very important to know about the latest technologies in textile sector. To produce a quality product, as a textile engineer I must have a vast knowledge about the production parameters & how to produce a high quality product. To accommodate the theoretical study with technical and practical things industrial training (Internee) is very important. In my training period I have observed that TUSUKA JEANS. TROUSER & PROCESSING LTD. produce high quality garments and fulfill the special requirements from the different types of buyers by following different internationally recommended standard method. In my training period I have learned many things such as different types of machines and their functions, techniques of productions and the management system. In this training period I have also learned how the desired product is made ready for shipment from the starting to the end i.e. from merchandising to the packaging. In this training period I have got an idea about the responsibility of different departments of the factory. So I think this industrial training will help me in future.
END