2. Page 2 of 121
Report
On
INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP
Course Code: Tex -4036
Duration: 6 weeks
RUPA FABRICS LTD.
Kunia, Barobari, Gazipur.
3. Page 3 of 121
Objective
The main object of our training is to gather the practical knowledge on various textile processes related with the industry. During the training period we have tried to meet the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge. As we are the students of wet processing technology so our main concern was about knitting, knit dyeing, knit finishing & quality control of knitted fabrics?. We have also tried to gather knowledge about machine maintenance and various utility services.
4. Page 4 of 121
TABLE OF CONTENT
Chapter No.
Title
page no.
Chapter- 1
Introduction
6-8
Chapter- 2
Project Description
9
Chapter-3
Management System
10-12
Chapter-4
Raw materials
12-15
Chapter-5
Production Planning & Sequence of operation:
16-112
1.Knitting
16-34
2. Batching
35-36
3. Laboratory
37-541
4. Dyeing Section
(Knit Dyeing)
42-57
5. Finishing Section
58-71
6. Garments
72-80
Chapter-6
Quality Assurance System
81-86
Chapter-7
Maintenances
87-90
Chapter-8
Utility Services
91-93
Chapter-9
Safety Management
94
Chapter-10
Store & Inventory Control
94
Chapter-11
Cost Analysis
95
Merchandising &marketing
96
Chapter-12
Social & Environment Information
96-106
.Chapter-113
Conclusion
107-109
6. Page 6 of 121
INTRODUCTION
By means of practical knowledge it’s not possible to apply the theoretical knowledge in the practical field. For any technical education, practical experience is almost equaled important in association with the theoretical knowledge. The industrial attachment is the process, which builds understanding, skills and attitude of the performer, which improves his knowledge in boosting productivity and services. University education provides us vast theoretical knowledge as well as more practical
Attachment, in despite of all these industrial attachment helps us to be familiar with technical support of modern machinery, stillness about various processing stages. It also provides us sufficient practical knowledge about production management, work study, efficiency, industrial management, purchasing, utility and maintenance of machinery and their operation techniques etc. the above mentioned cannot be achieved successfully by means of theoretical knowledge only. This is why it should be accomplished with practical knowledge in which it is based on. Industrial attachment makes us reliable to be accustomed with the industrial atmosphere and improve courage and inspiration to take self responsibility. Textile education can’t be completed without industrial training. Because this industrial training minimizes the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge and make us accustomed to industrial environment. I got an opportunity to complete two-months long industrial training at RUPA FABRICS LTD , which is a 100% export-oriented composite Knit Dyeing Industry. It has well planned & equipped fabric dyeing-finishing and garments units in addition to facilitate knitting and knitwear manufacturing.
7. Page 7 of 121
COMPANY PROFILE
Name : Rupa Fabrics Ltd.
Type : 100% Export Oriented Composite Knit Industry.
Year of establishment : 2010(Dyeing Section)
Investor : Md. Shahidul Islam
Location : Kunia, Barobari, Gazipur.
Certification & awards : ISO 9001:2000.
Production capacity : Knitting: 4 tons/day
Dyeing: 13 ton/day
Sewing: 50,000 pcs/day
Main Production : Basic T-Shirt, Long Sleeve, Sweater,
T-Shirt, Polo Shirt, Pajama, Ladies, Kids
Knitwear& all kinds of knit
Garments & Knit fabrics.
E–mail Address :rupa@citechco.net rupafash@bol-online.com
Website : www.rupagroup.net
Phone : 9292997, 9291704
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History of the project:
After successful operation in Rupa fabrics Ltd, the owner had decided to start a fully information & technology based along with the social accountability and quality controlled modern readymade composite knit garments industry in large scale. In this connection Shahidul Islam had decided in a resolution to start a company in Kunia, Barobari, Gazipur. Right from inception the policy of the company has been to provide total customer satisfaction by offering quality knitwear in time. To meet the commitments of quality and prompt delivery, Rupa fabrics Ltd Decided to integrate the manufacturing process in a planned manner. Over the years the entire process has been integrated by importing sophisticated machinery from world-renowned manufacturers.
Vision & mission of the project
The mission and vision of Rupa fabrics Ltd. is to manufacture and deliver high quality readymade garments (RMG) to its customers. The core objective is to attain and enhance customer satisfaction by providing on time delivery of desired quality readymade garments and also to increase efficiency of workforce.
To attain these objectives, the management of Rupa fabrics Ltd. has decided to adopt the following- To increase awareness regarding customers requirements throughout the organization. By providing training to develop efficiency of the employee. To collect customer’s feedback regularly to know about their conception about their company and to take timely appropriate action. To reduce the percentage of wastage / rejection minimum by 2% per annum’s implement and monitor ISO 9001:2000 quality management system within the organization.
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Man Power Organogram in RUPA FABRICS LTD. Knitting section
Dyeing & Finishing Section
AGM
PM
Store In charge
Knitting Master
Supervisor
Fitter man
Operator
Fitter man
Operator
GM
AGM
PM
SPO
Batch
Incharge
Finishing
Incharge
Lab
Incharge
PO
APO
Supervisor
Sr. Operator
Operator
Astt. Operator
Sewing man
Helper
Turningm/c
Operator
Helper
Sewing man
Squeeze
Operator
Dryer
Operator
Compactor
Operator
Helper
Lab
Technician
Q.C.
Technician
12. Page 12 of 121
Management System:
Buyer sample is send to G.M.
Matching is done by lab in charge.
Sample is prepared by dyeing master.
Sample is send to the buyer for approval.
Approved sample is returned and taken as STD. Sample for bulk production.
Asst. dyeing master gives responsibilities to production officer.
Then production officer, with the supervisors start bulk production.
On line and off line quality check is done by lab in charge and asst. dyeing master.
After dyeing finishing in charge controls the finishing process with the supervision of production officer.
After finishing, the material is checked by dyeing master.
Finally G.M. checks the result with dyeing master and decision is taken for delivery.
Designation & their Responsibilities:
General Manager:
Report to: Reports to the Board of Directors.
Position objective: To direct promote & coordinate the operations of the cooperative in a manner that will optimize the cooperative market share & savings, improve the cooperatives efficiency, help cooperative’s mission & goals making result in outstanding customer service.
Position responsibilities: The General Manager’s responsibilities involve supervision, public relation, marketing, profitability & sales, service, reporting, capital requirements & other duties as assigned by the board of directors.
Dyeing Manager:
Report to: Reports to the General Manager.
Position objective: To direct promote & coordinate the operations of the cooperative in a manner that will optimize the cooperative market share & savings, improve the cooperatives efficiency, help cooperative’s mission & goals making result in outstanding customer service.
13. Page 13 of 121
Position responsibilities: To promote and managing the safety of their
employees and their work environment. Overall supervision of dyeing & finishing section & quality control. The dyeing manager will maintain a positive attitude that promotes team work within the cooperative & a favorable image of the cooperative. Managers also must report failures to follow safety standards by others outside of their departments and take immediate actions to implement controls for situations that are clearly unsafe.
Production Officer:
Report to: Dyeing Manager.
Position objective: To plan execute & follow up the production activities & control the quality production with related activities.
Position responsibilities: Overall supervision of dyeing & finishing, dyes chemicals requisition issue & check, program making, sample checking, color measurement.
15. Page 15 of 121
Raw materials
Raw material is a unique substance in any production oriented textile industry. It plays a vital role in continuous production and for high quality fabric.
Types of Raw Materials:
1. Yarn
2. Fabric
3. Dye stuff
4. Chemical and auxiliaries
Raw Materials Sources:
Cotton Yarn: 1. ARMAN Spinning Mill.
2. RISING Spinning Mill.
3. THERMAX MELANGE Spinning Mill.
4. NZ Spinning Mill.
Polyester Yarn: India
Lycra : Singapore, Indonesia, Korea, Japan
Fabric : 01. RUPA Fabrics Ltd.
02. Cotton Club (BD) Ltd.
Types of fabrics:
Single jersey
Single jersey with lycra
pique
Polo pique.
Single lacoste
Double Lacoste
Fleece
Rib
Rib with lycra
1×1 Rib
2×1 Rib
CVC.
Polyester.
PC.
Different Types of Dyes Used In RUPA FABRICS LTD with Their Brand Name:
16. Page 16 of 121
Reactive Dye
BRAND NAME
COUNTRY NAME
NAME OF DYE STUFF
DY-STAR.
GERMANY
Remazol Blue RR
Remazol Yellow RR
Remazol Deep Black GWF
Remazol Red RR
Remazol Turquoise Blue G
Remazol B/Yellow3GL
Remazol Blue BB new
Remazol Orange RR
Remazol Blue RSPL
Levafix Rubine CA Gran
Levafix Red CA Gran
Levafix Olive CA Gran
Levafix Fast Red CA Gran
Levafix Brillant Red E-4BA Gran
Dianix Navy CC
Dianix Turquoise S-BG
IMPOCOLOR
GERMANY
Imcozin Blue E-NR
Imcozin Blue V-CR 150%
Imcozin Brilliant Red V-F3B
Imcozin Brilliant Yellow V-4GL
Imcozin Yellow E-3R 150%
BENZEMA
SWITZER LAND
Bezaktive Blue S-GLD 150
Bezaktive Yellow S-3R 150
Bezaktive Red S-3B 150
CLARIANT
SWITZER LAND
Drimarine Yellow K-4G Cdg
HUNTSMAN
SWITZER LAND
Terasil Red W-4BS
Terasil Navy W-RS
Novacron Red FN-R-01
Novacron Yellow F-4G
JIHUA
CHINA
Starfix Black B 150%
Starfix Red EP 150%
SUMIFIX
JAPAN
Sumifix Supra Blue E-XF
Sumifix Supra Yellow E-XF
UN COLOR
KOREA
Sunfix Navy Blue
Different Types of Chemicals Used In Rupa Fabrics Ltd With Their Brand Name:
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CHEMICAL NAME
BRAND NAME
COUNTRY NAME
Wetting agent
FELSON NOF
Germany
Levelling agent
N.D.L.S. Con
Switzerland
Anti-creasing agent
Marla KT
Germany
Per Oxide Stabilizer
Kapazon H-53
Germany
CBB
Rucorit Wez
Caustic
Caustic
China
Soda Ash
Soda Ash
Chaina
H2O2
H2O2
Chaina+Korea
Optical Brightening Agent
Uvitex-BMA
Switzerland
Uvitex-BHV
Uvitex-BBT
Syno White 4Bk
Korea
H2O2 Killer
Catazyme 200L
Germany
Acetic Acid
Acetic Acid
India
Sequestering Agent
MS
China
SIRIX 2UD
P cone
India
Enzyme
BIOPOLISH,AVOCEF
China
Cellzyme 335i
India
Electrolyte / Salt
Sodium Sulphate Anhydrose
India
Glubar Salt
Detergent
Marla OLS
Germany
KRCP
Switzerland
Soaping agent
Rukozen-NZA
Germany
Dekol ISN
China
Erapon R
Softener
Nerosoft-JS(an-ionic)
China
Nerosoft-NI(non-ionic)
Kappa Soft BD
Bangladesh
Stabilizer
Sandofix-EC
Germany
Marla PS 100
Disperse Dye
Black EX SF
Yellow K 4GB
Blue KFBL
Crimson-XFT
D-Red-XFT
Orange-HWT
Blue BBL
Orange F-3R
Red KRB
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Production Planning &
Sequence of Operation
Production of the industry describe to the below sequentially given which may expresses the working principle of every operation:
KNITTING SECTION
Knitting:
Knitting is the method of making fabric by transforming continuous strands of yarn into a series of interloping loops, each row of such loops forms the one immediately preceding it.
Flow chart of knitting Section:
Yarn in cone form
Feeding the yarn cone in the creel
Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement and
Tension device.
Knitting
Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting
Inspection
Numbering
Machine Description of Knitting Section:
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No. of m/c
M/C
Dia
M/C
Gauge
No. Of
Feeder
No. Of
Needle
M/C
Type
Brand
Origin
1
30”
24
60
2256
D/J
PAI LUNG
Taiwan
2
38”
24
76
2856
D/J
PAI LUNG
Taiwan
3
34”
24
72
2544
D/J
PAI LUNG
Taiwan
4
32”
24
64
2400
D/J
PAI LUNG
Taiwan
5
42”
24
126
3168
S/J
PAI LUNG
Taiwan
6
38”
24
114
2856
S/J
PAI LUNG
Taiwan
7
38”
24
114
2856
S/J
PAI LUNG
Taiwan
8
36”
24
108
2712
S/J
PAI LUNG
Taiwan
9
36”
24
108
2712
S/J
PAI LUNG
Taiwan
10
32’’
24
64
2400
S/J
PAI LUNG
Taiwan
11
36”
24
108
2712
S/J
PAI LUNG
Taiwan
Flat Bed machine
M/C No : 04
Flat : 54 inch
Feeders No : 06
Gauge : 14
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Image of knitting M/c
Raw materials for knitting:
Type of yarn Count Cotton 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S, 32S, 34S, 40S Polyester 75D, 72D,100D Spandex yarn 20D,40D, 70D Grey Mélange (C-90% V-10%) 24S, 26S PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S CVC 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S
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Image of Knitting action
RUPA FABRIC’S Ltd. produce the following product-
Single jersey-
a. Single Jersey (Plain)
b. Single lacoste
c. Double lacoste
d. Polo pique
Double jersey-
a. 1×1 rib (normal)
b. 1×1 rib (lycra)
c. 2×1 rib .
Flat Bed-
a. Plain collar
b. 3×2 rib.
c. Cuff
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Image of Dust Removal Fan of Knitting M/c
Interlock M/C:
a) Interlock pique
b) Mash fabric
c) Face/Back rib
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Image of Grey GSM setting cylinder
Rib M/C:
a) 1*1 Rib fabric b) 2*2 Rib fabric
Considerable points to produce knitted fabrics:
When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production and quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. Those are as follows-
- Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.
- Finished G.S.M.
- Yarn count
- Types of yarn (combed or carded)
- Diameter of the fabric.
- Stitch length
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Image of needle action with yarn
Operation procedure:
Sample analysis: After receiving an order first step is analysis the fabric. A sample is analysis as per following system.
a) Design analysis:-
Example:
Here,
= Knit loop
= Tuck loop
1 2 3 4 = Miss loop
1 2 1 2
Cam set up:
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1
2
3
4
Needle arrangement: - 1 2 3 4/ 1 2 3 4//
This fabric can by produced by two tuck cam
Optimum cam set up: 1
2
Optimum needle: - 1 2 1 2/ 1 2 1 2//
In BKL most of the fabrics are produced by using three track cam.
The truck cam set up for different fabric that is usually produced in BKL single jersey knitting machine are given below:
S.T.B – PK B – PK
In BKL for double jersey machine two Truck cam are generally used to produce Rib, Interlock Thermal, Mini-Thermal, Waffle, Mini-Waffle etc fabric.
Inter lock
Rib
D D
27. Page 27 of 121
C C
Fabric: Single jersey
NOTATION DIAGRAM
CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
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Image of Cam with Cam box
CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
D
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
C
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
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Image of Cam box
NEEDLE ARRANGMENT
HL
HL
L
LS
11
11
22
22
N.B:
Δ = Knit cam
H =High butt needle
L = Low butt needle
1 = One butt needle
2 = Two butt needle
30. Page 30 of 121
Image of Cam setting to the Cylinder
Fabric: 2 2 Rib
CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
D
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
C
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
Δ
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Image of Knitting M/c
By increasing m/c speed:
Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will be increased but it has to make sure that excess tension is not imposed on yarn because of this high speed.
A. By increasing the number of feeder:
If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time.
B. By using machine of higher gauge:
The more the machine gauge, the more the production is. So by using machine of higher gauge production can be increased.
C. By imposing other developments:
a) Using creel-feeding system.
b) Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of
yarn damage.
c) Using yarn feed control device.
d) Using auto lint removal.
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Image of rolled fabric
Production calculation:
Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency:
Yarncount
RPM No of Feeder No of Needle SL mm
3527.80
. . ( )
Production/shift in meter:
/ 100
. 60 12
/
/min.
Course cm
RPM No of Feeder Efficiency
Course cm
Course
Fabric width in meter:
/ 100
.
/ 100
.
Wales cm
Total no of Needlesused in knitting
Wales cm
Total no of wales
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Some points are needed to maintain for high quality fabric:
a) Brought good quality yarn.
b) Machines are oiled and greased accordingly.
c) G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately.
d) Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month.
e) Grey Fabrics are checked by 4 point grading system
Changing of GSM:
Major control by QAP pulley.
Minor control by stitch length adjustment.
Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley moves towards the positive direction then the G.S.M. is decrease. And in the reverse direction G.S.M will increase.
Other m/c in Knitting Section:
01. Gray Inspection M/c, Brand : UZU fabric inspection machine
02. Electric Balance for Fabric Weight.
03. Electric Balance for GSM check.
04. Compressor 2 pieces
Image yarn insertion
Production Parameter:
Machine Diameter;
Machine rpm (revolution per minute);
No. of feeds or feeders in use;
Machine Gauge;
Count of yarn;
Required time (M/C running time);
Machine running efficiency.
Relationship between knitting parameter:
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Stitch length increase with decrease of GSM.
If stitch length increase then fabric width increase and Wales per inch decrease.
If machine gauge increase then fabric width decrease.
If yarn count increase (courser) then fabric width increase.
If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease but GSM and Wales per inch increase.
for finer gauge, finer count yarn should use.
Considerable points to produce knitted fabrics:
When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production and quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider.
Those are as follows-
- Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.
- Finished G.S.M.
- Yarn count
- Types of yarn (combed or carded)
- Diameter of the fabric.
- Stitch length
- Color depth.
Effect of stitch length on color depth:
If the depth of color of the fabric is high loop length should be higher because in case of fabric with higher loop length is less compact. In dark shade dye take up% is high so GSM is adjusted then. Similarly in case of light shade loop length should be relatively smaller
Factors that should be change in case of fabric design on quality change:
a) Cam setting
b) Set of needle
c) Size of loop shape
Methods of increasing production:
By the following methods the production of knitted fabric can be increased –
A. By increasing m/c speed:
35. Page 35 of 121
Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will be increased but it has to make sure that excess tension is not imposed on yarn because of this high speed.
B. By increasing the number of feeder:
If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time.
C. By using machine of higher gauge:
The more the machine gauge, the more the production is. So by using machine of higher gauge production can be increased.
E. By imposing other developments:
a) Using creel-feeding system.
b) Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn damage.
c) Using yarn feed control device.
d) Using auto lint removal.
Faults &Remedies of knitting fabrics
1. Hole Mark: Causes: Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.
During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.
If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density.
Badly knot or splicing.
Yarn feeder badly set.
Remedies: Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.
Use proper count of yarn.
Correctly set of yarn feeder.
Knot should be given properly.
2. Needle Mark
Causes:
When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.
If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics.
Remedies:
Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.
3. Sinker Mark
Causes:
When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new
36. Page 36 of 121
loop as a result sinker mark comes.
If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.
Remedies:
Sinker should be changed.
4. Star Mark
Causes:
Yarn tension variation during production.
Buckling of the needle latch.
Low G.S.M fabric production.
Remedies:
Maintain same Yarn tension during production.
Use good conditioned needles.
5. Drop Stitches
Causes:
Defective needle.
If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle hook.
Take-down mechanism too loose.
Insufficient yarn tension.
Badly set yarn feeder.
Remedies:
Needle should be straight & well.
Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.
Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.
Yarn tension should be properly.
6. Oil stain
Causes:
When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a
Line.
Remedies:
Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.
Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.
Dear Madam or Sir:
7. Pin hole
Causes:
Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.
Remedies:
Change the needle.
8. Bairre:
A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width wise) stripe(s).
Causes:
37. Page 37 of 121
This fault comes from yarn fault.
If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.
Different lusture, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn.
During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in carded yarn & these fibers have similar characteristics.
In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver.
Remedies:
We can use this fabric in white color.
9. Fly:
Causes:
In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric production.
Remedies:
Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.
By cleaning the floor continuously.
By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.
Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.
10. Yarn contamination
Causes:
If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,
If lot, count mixing occurs.
Remedies:
By avoiding lot, count mixing.
Fault less spinning
Yarn Faults:
Neps.
Slubs.
Yarn count.
Thick/Thin place in yarn.
Hairiness.
Batching
Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics that should be dyed and processed for a Particular lot of a Particular order.
Batch Management:
38. Page 38 of 121
Primarily Batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing Manager. Some time Planning is adjusted according to m/c condition.
Batch process follow-up:
Grey fabric inspection
Batching
Fabric Turning
Storing for dyeing
Purpose of Batch Section:
To receive the grey fabrics roll from knitting section or other source.
To turn out the tubular fabric in its grey stage and to safe the face side of the fabric from any type of friction during the time of dyeing.
To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria-
Order sheet (Receive from buyer)
Dyeing shade (Color or white, light or Dark)
M/c available
Type of fabrics (100% cotton, PC, CVC)
Emergency
To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
To keep records for every previous dyeing.
Criteria of proper batching:
- To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.
- To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time.
- To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade.
- To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.
39. Page 39 of 121
Fabrics Faults Identification:
Hole Mark: Five are acceptable.
Needle Mark: five are acceptable. Visualize on the face side of the fabric.
Sinker Mark: These problems are not acceptable. It is Visualize on the back side of the fabric.
Patta: acceptable for only white color producing.
Star Mark: Five are acceptable.
Thick and thin place.
Lycra out.
Loop hole.
Oil spot.
Drop Stitches
LABORATORY
Lab department: Lab dip is a process by which buyers supplied swatch is matched with the varying dyes percentage in the laboratory with or without help of “DATA COLOR”
40. Page 40 of 121
Lab dip plays an important role in shade matching & and detaching the characteristics of the dyes and chemicals are to be used in the large scale of production so this is an important task before bulk production
Lab Working Procedure:
Lab dip receive
↓
Input id number entry
↓
By reference ←Recipe making→ from data color
↓
Recipe calculation
↓
Pipetting
↓
Fabric weighting & fabric input
↓
Fabric input into dye bath for dyeing
↓
Unloading
↓
Cold wash
↓
Hot wash→ with chemical
↓
Hot wash→ normal water
↓
Acid wash→ normal water
↓
Dryer
↓
Ironing
↓
Shade matching
↓
Shade ok
↓
Lab dip cutting
↓
Submit to buyer
↓
Buyer approval
OK Not OK
Send to floor
.
41. Page 41 of 121
Available Stock Solutions:
Red – 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common)
Yellow – 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common)
Blue - 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common).
Preparation:
To prepare 0.1% Stock solution, it is necessary to mix 0.1 g dye and 100 cc water.
To prepare 0.5% Stock solution, 0.5 g dye stuff is mixed with 100 cc water.
To prepare 1.0% & 2.0% Stock solution similar procedure is followed.
To prepare 10% Stock solution of Soda ash, 10 g Soda is mixed with 100 cc water.
Depth of shade:
Rupa Fabrics Ltd. Produces 0.1% to 5% shade for the goods.
2.0%for deep shade.
1.0%for medium shade.
0.5%for deep shade.
0.1%for light shade.
Usually following calculations are followed :-
Recipe % × Sample Weight
Dye Solution = (cc).
Stock solution %
Recipe % × Liquor)
Salt = (gram per liter).
1000
Recipe % × 100 × Liquor)
42. Page 42 of 121
Soda Solution = (cc).
(1000 × Stock solution %)
SAMPLE CALCULATION FOR 0.5% SHADE
Sample wt. = 5 mg
Material liquor ratio = 1: 10
Total liquor (5 10) = 50 cc
5 0.5%
Dye solution required = ------------------- = 2.5 cc
1 %
50 25
Salt solution required = ------------------- = 6.25 cc
20 10
50 10
Soda ash solution required = ------------------- = 2.5 cc
20 10
Water required {50 - (2.5 + 6.25 + 2.5)} = 38.75 cc
Procedure for100 % cotton fabric:
1. Calculate the recipe.
2. Weight the fabric.
3. Take the beaker keep the fabric into the beaker.
4. Then the dyes, chemicals & required amount of water take in to the beaker by
the digital pipetting.
5. Then weight the salt by the electric balance and add in to the beaker.
6. Then the beaker set in to the lab dyeing machine for dyeing.
7. Start the program for dyeing the whole dyeing time 60 min at 60 °C
temperature. (The dyeing time and temperature depends on which classes of
dyes are used for dyeing.)
43. Page 43 of 121
8. After 30 min add the then add the soda ash. By pipetting.
9. Again run the program next 30 min at the same temperature.
10. Finished the dyeing time then the sample taken from the beaker first
Hot wash & then cold wash.
11. Then acid wash as for neutralization.
12. Then soaping required soap solution 10 min at 90° C temperature.
13. After the fabric again cold.
14. Then dry the lab dip and compare with the standard.
LABORATORY MACHINERIES WITH ITS SPECIFICATION:
Machine Type : Color Fastness to Rubbing (Crook Meter)
Brand : ATLAS
Test Method : ISO 105-C06, ISO105-F09
Machine Type : Spectra Photo meter
Brand : Data Color
Manufacturer : U. S. A
Test Name : Color fastness to Wash (Rota Wash).
Brand : ATLAS
No.of m/c : 01
Test Method : ISO 105-C06, ISO105-D02
Test Name : Color Fastness to Perspiration
Brand : Paramount
Origin : U.K
No.of m/c : 02
Test Method : ISO 105-C06
Test Name :PH (Ph Meter)
Brand :HANNA
Origin :ROMANIA
Lab Dip m/c:
Brad name : Starlet
Origin : U.S.A
44. Page 44 of 121
M/C No : 02
Color Matching Cabinet (Light box):
Light Box no: 02
Brand : Verivide
Origin : U.K
Light Source:
Day Light (D-65)
UV
TL-84
* CWF
Machine Type : Washing M/C.
Brand : SIEMENS
Manufacturer : JARMAN
Machine Type : Weight Balance M/C
Brand : KERN
Dyeing
45. Page 45 of 121
Section
DYEING:
Dyeing is the process of imparting colors to a textile material in loose fiber, yarn,cloth or garment form by treatment with dyes.
General Classification of dye stuff (Dyers Point of view):
Coloring matters
Dyes Pigment
Water soluble Water insoluble Vat Azoic Mineral Mineral
46. Page 46 of 121
Flow Chart For Dyeing:
Grey fabric receive from knitting section
Batching
Select m/c no
Fabric loading
Select production program
Pre treatment
Select recipe for dyeing
Recipe confirm by D.M / S.P.O
Dyeing
Post treatment
Unload
Vat Sulpher Disperse
Direct Acid Basic Reactive Optical whitener
MACHINE DESCRIPTION
DYEING FLOOR
Dyeing Machines:
The RUPA Fabrics Ltd. There are 14dyeing machines. Among them 5 are sample
dyeing machine and 9 are bulk dyeing machine.The description and specifications of
the machine are given below-
Machine Type 01
Name of the machine : Sample Dyeing Machine
Brand Name : Fongs
Manufacturer : Fong’s National Engineering (SHENZHENE) Co. LTD.
Capacity : 10 Kg
47. Page 47 of 121
Hydraulics Test Pressure : 540 KPa
Design pr. : 350 KPa
Design temp. : 1400C
Machine Type 02
Name of the machine : Sample Dyeing Machine
Brand Name : Fongs
Manufacturer : Fong’s National Engineering (SHENZHENE) Co. LTD.
Capacity : 30 Kg
Hydraulics Test Pressure : 540 KPa
Design pr. : 350 KPa
Design temp. : 1400C
Machine Type 03
Name of the machine : Sample Dyeing Machine
Brand Name : Fongs
Manufacturer : Fong’s National Engineering (SHENZHENE) Co. LTD.
Capacity : 10 Kg
Hydraulics Test Pressure : 520 KPa
Design pr. : 350 KPa
Design temp. : 1400C
Machine Type 04
Name of the machine : Sample Dyeing Machine
Brand Name : Fongs
Manufacturer : Fong’s National Engineering (SHENZHENE) Co. LTD.
Capacity : 30 Kg
Hydraulics Test Pressure : 540 KPa
Design pr. : 350 KPa
Design temp. : 1400C
Machine Type 05
Name of the machine : Sample Dyeing Machine (ALLFIT – 1T)
Brand Name : Fongs
Manufacturer : Fong’s National Engineering (SHENZHENE) Co. LTD.
Capacity : 120 Kg
Hydraulics Test Pressure : 840 KPa
Design pr. : 350 KPa
Design temp. : 1400C
48. Page 48 of 121
Machine Type 06
Name of the machine : Winch Dyeing Machine (Innoecology)
Brand Name : Brazzoly
Manufacturer :Italy
Capacity : 1000 Kg
Hydraulics Test Pressure : 250 KPa
Design pr. : 350 KPa
Design temp. : 1400C
Machine Type 07
Name of the machine : Winch Dyeing Machine (ECO -1T)
Brand Name : Fongs
Manufacturer : Fong’s National Engineering (SHENZHENE) Co. LTD.
Capacity : 250 Kg
Hydraulics Test Pressure : 250 KPa
Design pr. : 350 KPa
Design temp. : 1400C
Machine Type 08
Name of the machine : Winch Dyeing Machine (ECO – 2T)
Brand Name : Fongs
Manufacturer : Fong’s National Engineering (SHENZHENE) Co. LTD.
Capacity : 500 Kg
Hydraulics Test Pressure : 1100 KPa (Shell)
Design pr. : 700 KPa (Shell),ATM KPa (tube)
Design temp. : 1700C
Machine Type 09
Name of the machine : Winch Dyeing Machine (ECO -3T)
Brand Name : Fongs
Manufacturer : Fong’s National Engineering (SHENZHENE) Co. LTD.
Capacity : 750 Kg
Hydraulics Test Pressure : 1100 KPa (Shell)
Design pr. : 700 KPa (Shell),
Design temp. : 1700C
Machine Type 10
Name of the machine : Winch Dyeing Machine (ECO -4T)
Brand Name : Fongs
Manufacturer : Fong’s National Engineering (SHENZHENE) Co. LTD.
49. Page 49 of 121
Capacity : 1000 Kg
Hydraulics Test Pressure : 1100 KPa (Shell)
Design pr. : 700 KPa (Shell),
Design temp. : 1700C
Machine Type 11
Name of the machine : Winch Dyeing Machine (ECO -6T)
Brand Name : Fongs
Manufacturer : Fong’s National Engineering (SHENZHENE) Co. LTD.
Capacity : 1500 Kg
Hydraulics Test Pressure : 1100 KPa (Shell)
Design pr. : 700 KPa (Shell),
Design temp. : 1700C
Machine Type 12
Name of the machine : Winch Dyeing Machine (HSJ -1T)
Brand Name : Fongs
Manufacturer : Fong’s National Engineering (SHENZHENE) Co. LTD.
Capacity : 280 Kg
Hydraulics Test Pressure : 1100 KPa (Shell)
Design pr. : 700 KPa (Shell)
Design temp. : 1700
Machine Type 13
Name of the machine : Winch Dyeing Machine (HSJ -2T)
Brand Name : Fongs
Manufacturer : Fong’s National Engineering (SHENZHENE) Co. LTD.
Capacity : 560 Kg
Hydraulics Test Pressure : 1100 KPa (Shell)
Design pr. : 700 KPa (Shell)
Design temp. : 1700C
Machine Type 14
Name of the machine : Winch Dyeing Machine (HSJ -3T)
Brand Name : Fongs
Manufacturer : Fong’s National Engineering (SHENZHENE) Co. LTD.
Capacity : 840 Kg
Hydraulics Test Pressure : 1100 KPa (Shell)
Design pr. : 700 KPa (Shell)
Design temp. : 1700C
50. Page 50 of 121
Image of dyeing machine
Pretreatment Process of SCOURING/ BLEACHING:
Fabric Load
↓
Chemical Dozing
(Detergent+Anticreasing+Stabilizer+Sequstering) at 50 0C (5 min)
↓
Caustic Soda 500C (10min)
↓
H2O2 700C (5min)
↓
Run time at 98 0C (60min)
↓
Cooling at 780C
↓
Scouring sample check
51. Page 51 of 121
↓
Hot Wash 900C (Acetic Acid + H2O2 killer + Sequestering agent) at 900C (10min)
↓
Normal Wash
↓.
Acetic Acid at 550C (10min)
↓
PH check (Acceptable Range 4.5-5.5)
↓
Enzyme at 550C (60min)
↓
Sample Check
Process for COTTON FABRIC DYE:
Fabric Load
↓
Chemical Dozing
(Detergent+Anticreasing+Stabilizer+Sequstering) at 50 0C (5 min)
↓
Caustic Soda 500C (10min)
↓
H2O2 700C (5min)
↓
Run time at 98 0C (60min)
↓
Cooling at 780C
↓
Scouring sample check
↓
Hot Wash 900C (Acetic Acid + H2O2 killer + Sequestering agent) at 900C (10min)
52. Page 52 of 121
↓
Normal Wash
↓.
Acetic Acid at 550C (10min)
↓
PH check (Acceptable Range 4.5-5.5)
↓
Enzyme at 550C (60min)
↓
Sample Check
(If OK)
↓
Levelling Agent at 550C (5min)
↓
Run time 5 min
↓
Salt dosing at 550C (10min)
↓
Run time 5 min
↓
Color dosing at 550C (30min)
↓
Run time 10 min
↓
Salt sample check
↓
Soda dosing at 550C (40min)
↓
Run time 10 min
↓
Temp raise to 600C
↓
Sample check
53. Page 53 of 121
Process for POLEYSTER FABRIC DYE:
Fabric Load
↓
Chemical Dozing
(Detergent+Soda ash) at 90 0C (10 min)
↓
Wash
↓
Acetic Acid
↓
PH check ( range 4.5)
↓
Levelling Agent
↓
Color dosing at 700C (15min)
↓
Run time 5 min
↓
Temp up 1300C (maintain 1.5 C/min)
↓
Run time 40 min
↓
Cooling at 780C (maintain 1.5 C/min)
↓
Color sample check
↓
Bath drain
↓
Reduction (detergent+caustic soda+hydrose) at 900C (100min)
↓
Normal hot wash at 700C (10min)
↓
Acedic acid
↓
54. Page 54 of 121
Wash at 600C (20min)
↓
Fabric unload
Process for VISCOSE FABRIC DYE:
Fabric Load
↓
Chemical Dozing
(Detergent+Soda ash) at 90 0C (20 min)
↓
Cooloing Wash at 70 C
↓
Normal hot wash at 70 0C (10 min)
↓
Acetic Acid
↓
PH check ( range 6)
↓
Levelling Agent at 400C (5 min)
↓
Run time 5 min
↓
Color dosing at 400C (5min)
↓
Run time 5 min
↓
Salt dosing at 40 0C (15 min)
↓
Run time 10 min
↓
Soda dosing at 50 0C (25 min)
↓
55. Page 55 of 121
Run time 30 min
↓
Color steam at 600C (10 min)…..
↓
Color sample check
↓
RSK hot wash at 700C (10 min)
↓
Acedic acid
↓
Wash at 600C (20min)
↓
Fabric unload
Flow chart of Rema Turquoise Color dyeing:
Fabric Loading
Levelling+Anticreasing+Sequestering
Dosing at 60˚c for 5 mins.
↓
Run time at 60˚c for 10 mins.
↓
Dyes stuff dosing at 60˚c for 40 mins.
↓
Run time at 60˚c for 10 min
↓
Half Salt dosing at at 60˚c for 15 mins.
↓
Run time at 60˚c for 10 min
↓
Rest Salt dosing at 60˚c for 15 min
↓
Run time at 60˚c for 10 min
↓.
Temp. Raise to 90˚c (Maintain at at 1.5˚c/min)
56. Page 56 of 121
↓
Run time at 90˚c for 20 mins
↓
Cooling to 60˚c
↓
20% soda dosing at 60˚c for 20 mins.
↓
Run time at 60˚c for 10 mins
↓
Rest Soda dosing at 60˚c for 15 mins
↓
Color steam at 60˚c for 10 mins…..,80˚c for 10 mins……
Flow chart of White fabric dyeing:
Fabric load
↓
Wet Fabric
↓
Drain
↓.
Fill water
↓
Acid
↓
Ph check-(4-4.5)
↓
Enzyme at 60˚c for 60 min
↓
Enzyme hot at 90˚c for 10 min
↓
Scouring & bleaching at 98˚c for 90 min
↓
57. Page 57 of 121
Syno color at 60˚c for 30 min (dosing)
↓.
Runtime time at 98˚c for 20 min
↓
Sample check-
↓
Color out
↓
Color hot wash at 80˚c for 10 min
↓
Acid at 60˚c for 20 min
↓
Softener at 45˚c for 20 min
↓
Rinsing
↓
Unload
↓
Drain
Dyeing Machine:
58. Page 58 of 121
Image of dyeing M/c
Common dyeing faults with their remedies:
Uneven dyeing:
Causes:
- Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching).
- Improper color dosing.
- Using dyes of high fixation property.
- Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
- Lack of control on dyeing m/c
Remedies:
- By ensuring even pretreatment.
- By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
- Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
- Proper controlling of dyeing m/c
Batch to Batch Shade variation:
59. Page 59 of 121
Causes:
- Fluctuation of Temperature.
- Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals.
- Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals.
- Dyes lot variation.
- Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio.
- Improper pretreatment.
Remedies:
- Use standard dyes and chemicals.
- Maintain the same liquor ratio.
- Follow the standard pretreatment procedure.
- Maintain the same dyeing cycle.
- Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the
Shade.
- Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same time
and temperature in the process.
-The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should
check daily.
Roll to roll variation or Meter to Meter variation:
Causes:
- Poor migration property of dyes.
- Improper dyes solubility.
- Hardness of water.
- Faulty m/c speed, etc
Remedies:
- Use standard dyes and chemicals.
- Proper m/c speed.
- Use of soft water
Crease mark:
Causes:
- Poor opening of the fabric rope
- Shock cooling of synthetic material
- If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal
- Due to high speed m/c running
Remedies:
- maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
- Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
- Reducing the m/c load
- Higher liquor ratio
Dye spot:
60. Page 60 of 121
Causes:
- Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath.
- Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath.
Remedies:
- By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals
- By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh
Strainer, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed
Wrinkle mark:
Causes:
- Poor opening of the fabric rope
- Shock cooling of synthetic material
- High temperature entanglement of the fabric
Remedies:
- Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
- Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
- Higher liquor ratio
Softener Mark:
Causes:
- Improper mixing of the Softener.
- Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener.
- Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
FINISHING
Finishing:
The making of a marketable and consumer usable textile is not completed after fabric production dyeing or printing operation. Fabrics usually still need to undergo an additional processing known as finishing, which is the final processing before the fabric is cut into apparel or made into any articles of textiles. Finishing is what improves attractiveness and makes fabrics suitable for their intended end use.
Machine Description for Finishing Section:
Finishing section is consisting of two lines. They are –
A. Tube line
B. Open line
A. The machine that are used for open line are given bellow –
Slitting and Dewatering machine.
Stenter machine
Compactor machine
B. The machines that are used for tube line are given bellow –.
Dewatering machine
Dryer
Compactor machine
61. Page 61 of 121
Process flow Chart for Finishing Section:
Finishing
Open Finish Tube Finish
Slitting and Dewatering Dewatering
Stentering Drying
Compacting Soft setting
↓
Inspection Compacting
Delivery Inspection
Delivery
62. Page 62 of 121
DEWATERING MACHINE: (M/C Specification)
Working principle :
After completing the dyeing process from the dyeing m/c then the fabrics are
Ready for de-watering. In de-watering m/c tubular fabrics are mainly processed. There is a magnetic sensor which scene the twist of the fabric and its direction and turn the fabric in opposite direction to remove twist automatically. Here dewatering is performed De-watering is the process to remove the water from the fabric completely by squeezing and it is done by the padder. A suitable expander is used before the fabric is passed through the nip of the padders, which expands the fabric flat wise and adjust the width.
The expander width is adjusted as S/J- 20%, PK-25%, Int.-35%, Lacoste-40% wider than the required width. There is a pair of rubber coated padder, where water is removed from fabric when passed through the nip of it.
Normally squeezer contain single or double padders where,
One for removing water and
Other for applying finishing chemicals such as softener.
But this finishing is done only for the tubular fabric. Open widths knitted fabrics are applied finishing treatment later in stenter.
Here present the compressor which given compress air to form ballooning before passing through the padder. This balloon remove crease mark but not form the maximum balloon otherwise shrinkage increase.
In feed & out feed traverses which present in albatross control the following functions by over feeding system.
Machine name : Dewatering
Brand name : CORINO
Country : ITALY
Power(max) :26kw
63. Page 63 of 121
Function:
Reduce water content.
Apply chemicals.
Apply over feed to give some compaction.
Open the fabric from the rope form.
Width wise stretch the fabric.
Plait the fabric.
To control the crease mark of the fabric.
To control the length of the fabric
Operational parameter:
Speed: As much as possible (40-60 m/min). Higher the GSM lower the speed.
Over feed: As required. Higher the GSM higher the over feed.
Padder pressure: 1-1.5 bar as required. Higher the GSM lower the padder pressure.
Width: Fabric width is adjusted as per required width.
Different parts of dewatering m/c:
N.B: Helot contains two baths. One for padder bath and another for softener bath where softener given 1 g/l. The softener bath capacity is 80 liters.
Maintenance during operation: Proper balloon form by compressor air other wise crease mark appears.
Padder contract point adjusts perfectly according to the fabric construction otherwise accurate water will not remove.
Albatros must be clean every one or two hours later.
N.B: This Data’s are varied depending upon the Gray G.S.M and Finished G.S.M and also on the dia of the fabric. All this parameters are suitable for G.G.S.M range 140~160 to get Finish G.S.M 170~185 without Lycra Fabric. All This data’s are practiced in mills which may varied factory to factory.
DRYER MACHINE: (M/C Specification)
Fuel combustion chamber:
Fuel- Natural gas
Fuel pressure-7.2m bar
Capacity-300kw
Voltage-240/400v
Frequency-50Hz
64. Page 64 of 121
Image of dryer
Working principle of dryer:
After de-watering then the fabric through the dryer.
The main function of the dryer is given below,
To dry the fabric.
To control the overfeed system.
To control the vibration which increase the G.S.M.
This machine contains two chambers. Two mesh endless conveyors are placed lengthwise to the chamber named conveyor net and filter net, each chamber contain a burner, which supply hot air .This hot air is guided through the ducting
line by suction fan .There are nozzles placed in between filter net and conveyor net. When the fabric pass on the conveyor net, hot air is supplied to the wet fabric to dry it. There are exhaust fan which such the wet air and deliver to the atmosphere through the ducting line.
The speed of the dryer depends on the temperature of the m/c & the G.S.M of the fabric. If the m/c temp.is high then m/c speed also high and the m/c temp. is low then m/c speed also low . The vibration speed of the m/c for heavy fabric is 730 m/min and normal fabric is 480 m/min.
65. Page 65 of 121
The temp.is different chambers according to the shade of the fabric –
Shade
Chamber-1
Chamber-2
Light
1200c
1300c
Medium
1350c
1400c
Deep
1500c
1700c
Operating parameters:-
Temperature:-Set the temperature between 1200c -1300c for white and 1500c -1700c for color fabric. GSM temperature Or, moisture content temperature
Set the over feed up to 10~20% or as required to get finish G.S.M.
Set the speed as much as possible (6~20m/min). GSM speed
Special feature of Steam dryer:
Steam dryer (two chambers).
Vibration occurs in heating zone.
Process air pressure switch present.
Maximum temp. Increase up to 1700c.
Steam control switch present.
Two burners present.
Two conveyor belts are present.
N.B: For Polyamide: Temp range is 1100C~ 1150C.Speed range16~18: Overfeed range- 5%. This Data’s are varied depending upon the Gray G.S.M and Finished G.S.M and also on the dia of the fabric. All this parameters are suitable for G.G.S.M range 140~160 to get Finish G.S.M 170~185 without Lycra Fabric.
Following tings are also considered incase of Dryer machine:
If fabric is redder than the standard one, then reduce the temperature.
If fabric is more Yellowier than the standard one, then increase the temperature.
If fabric is more Bluer than the standard one, then increase the temperature.
All this data’s are practiced in mills which may vary factory to factory.
COMPACTOR MACHINE: (M/C Specification )
Tube Compactor:
Machine name – NavisTube Tex
Brand name –PAK-NIT
Country – U.S.A
Manufacturing Year – 2009
66. Page 66 of 121
Working principle:-
The main object of compactor is to make the fabric surface smooth, to control the residual shrinkage, G.S.M and if required fabric width also. To control the residual shrinkage the fabric is previously shrinkage artificially by gathering of loops of knitted fabric and it is set by heat and pressure. In tube compactor, the dried tubular knitted fabric is face to steam when it passed through the Teflon coated conveyor belt. When a cotton fabric absorbs water, it swells and shrinks (particularly in length direction) because the absorbed water allows the cellulose chains to move relative stain free position. Then the fabric is passed through the
Expander. This m/c contains two compaction units to compact both side of the tubular fabric. Each unit contains a hot rotating cylinder, blanket which rotate in contact with the cylinder and Teflon cover .while passing the expander roller, the fabric is over feeded. The fabric is compacted with the pressure of blanket and Teflon cover while passing through the hot cylinder .Due to compaction stitch length is reduced. Then the fabric is passed through the counting device .Before packing, the fabric is inspected carefully.
Operational parameter:-
-Set the temperature at 110-1390C (as required)
Set the overfeed % as required; to increase GSM, overfeed need to increase to a certain limit.
Function:
Shrinkage control
GSM control
Width control
Special feature of Santex –ag Compactor:
Operating system is computerized.
Steam bar present which soften the fabric for compacting.
In compacting zone, edge & retard roller, compacting shoe and steel plates are present.
A pair of pulley present for fabric dia control.
Fabric G.S.M, shrinkage and dia control.
Following things are also considered incase of compacting machine:
If fabric is less Reddish than the standard one, then increase the temperature, reduce steam.
If fabric is less yellowish than the standard one, then increase the temperature, without steam.
67. Page 67 of 121
If fabric is less Bluish than the standard one, then reduce the
temperature, increase steam.
N.B: Overfeed Steam G.S.M
Overfeed Steam Stretch G.S.M
Teflon speed (+) – More compaction
Teflon speed (-) – Less compaction, G.S.M because overfeed is less.
N.B:
To remove twisting the tube fabric may be heat set before compacting.
For Viscose with Lycra more overfeed required.
All this data’s are practiced in mills which may vary factory to factory.
Open Compactor:
Function:
To control shrinkage.
To control width.
To control GSM.
To smooth fabric.
Heat seating of fabric for Lycra.
Important parts
- Over feed roller.
- Expander.
- Blanket(2)
-
Operational parameter:
-Set the temperature at 120 °C (as required)
-Set the speed as much as possible (15-25 m/min).GSM m/c speed.
Machine name – Open compactor
Brand name – FERRARO
Country – Italy
Manufacturing Year – 2009
68. Page 68 of 121
-Set the overfeed % as required; to increase GSM, overfeed need to increase to a certain limit
Image of open compactor
SLITTING AND DE-WATER MACHINE: (M/C Specification)
PASSAGE DIAGRAM OF CORINO SLITTING MACHINE:
Brand name-EMC
Country- Italy
Year of manufacturing-2009
Velocity maximum-90m/min
69. Page 69 of 121
Working principle:
The slitting m/c has 4 units - initial squeezer, de-twisting, slitter and padder. After dyeing completed and falling of water from fabric the fabric is fed in slitting m/c. So it is necessary to remove some water initially for the case of further processing in this m/c. The initial squeezer does this work. The de-twisting unit removes twists that may present in tubular rope form fabric. This unit has 3 de-twisting rollers, one rotation drum and 2 feeler rollers with sensors. By these rollers it detects twist in fabric and removes by rotating rope fabric in opposite direction. Before slitting there is a blower which blows air to open the tubular fabric & makes it easy to pass over cigger. The cigger can be extended in circumference and opens the tubular fabric in full circumference. Slitting is done by using open mark detecting golden eye by around knife. Then the fabric passes through the padder where washing or chemical treatment is done. Squeezer is used to remove 60-70% of water. After removing water width is controlled by stretcher and fabric is delivered by folding device.
Operational parameter:-
Set the padder pressure as required (3-7bar)
Set the speed as much as possible (30-80m/min).
Function of the Machine:
Used to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing
To slit the tube fabric by the knife for opening of the fabric and ready for stentering
Delivered fabric in crease free state
Before squeezing balloon is formed with the help of compressed air passing by a nozzle or air sprayer
It can control the diameter of fabric and GSM and shrinkage by over feeding mechanism
STENTER MACHINE: (M/C Specification)
Brand name - EMC
Country of origin -TURKEY
Manufacturing date-: 2009
Maximum Speed - 100m/min
Chamber – 7
70. Page 70 of 121
Working Principle:
Stenter Machine is generally used to finish the open fabric. This stenter machine consists of six chambers; each contains two burners, two blowers, two ducting line, nozzles and suction fan attach with the suction line. The burner produces hot flue gases which guided though the ducting line by the help of blower. There are nozzles placed above and bellow the rail. When the fabric passed through the rail, then hot air is sprayed to the above and bellows the fabric with the help of nozzle. The hot air is circulating in the chamber and the moisture in the fabric is evaporated, which leave the chamber with the help of suction fan through the ducting line. Temperature of each chamber can control automatically by controlling the intensity of burner. Generally lower temperature is maintained the first and last chamber then other chambers.
The speed of the fabric is maintained according to the moisture content of the fabric. After passing the fabrics to all the chambers, the fabric is collected for compaction.
The performance of the stentering range depends on proper introduction of the cloth into the machine. The finer the fabric is being processed, the greater the significance of the correct, crease free and fault free fabric introduction. In stenter m/c the fabric first passed through different rollers including weft straightening device, uncurling device for proper feeding of the fabric into the machine. Then it passed through the selvedge detector which detect the selvedge and adjust the rail for proper gripping the fabric in the pin arrangement. This stenter m/c consists of both pin and clip arrangement. The fabric first grip by pin and gust before entering the chamber, pin are locked by clip arrangement. To maintain proper dimension of the fabric, length wise overfeed and width wise tension is given to the fabric.
Important parts:
- Burner - Suction Fan
- Exhaust air fan - Nozzle
- Over feed roller. - Chain arrangement
Function:
- Drying
- Shrinkage control
- Heat setting
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- Width control
- Finishing chemical application.
- Loop control
- Moisture control, etc.
Fig:Stenter Machine
Different sections of Stenter Machine:
A. Padder Section:
In the padder section the fabric is treated with chemicals specially with softener and acid in two tanks. Each chemical tanks contains-
FOR POLYESTER: Arristan PSR (Softener) - 10kg
+ Acetic Acid (acid) – 200gm 100 liter water
or
Aqua IC (Softener) – 10 kg
+ Acetic Acid (acid) – 200gm 100 liter water
FOR COTTON: (COLOR):- Gemsol ASEM 20P - 10 kg
Reaknitt –FF - 7 kg 100 liter water
MgCl2 - 3 kg
Acetic Acid - 200gm
FOR COTTON: (WHITE):- Tubengal SMF - 10 kg
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Arristan 64 - 3 kg
MgCl2 - 3 kg 100 liter water
Acetic Acid - 200g
B. Weft Straightner:
The main function of Weft Straightner is to control the bowing & Skewnesss of the fabric.
C. Width Setting Chamber:
This Chamber control the width of the fabric by clip of 10 pin.
D. Heating Chamber:
This chamber controls the shrinkage and the G.S.M of fabric.
Temperature Range: Cotton-- 1500C~1700C.
Polyester- 1650C ~ 1850C.
With Lycra - 1750C ~ 1900C.
E. Cooling Chamber:
This chamber cooled the hot fabric before reach to delivery zone.
F. Exhaust Motor:
This specific part used to exit the steam produced in the chambers and also exit the extra temperature from the machine.
G. Delivery Zone:
This zone delivered the fabric in a folded form. In this zone the fabric has to
Pass through several rollers in order to prevent the formation of crease mark in the finished fabric.
Parameters Used For Different Constructed Fabric :
For Polyester Fabric:
Fabric Type
Overfeed %
Temperature0C
Speed (m/min)
Stretch (%) Inch
Light
Color
Deep
Color
Depend on fabric G.S.M
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Single Jersey
5 % to 10%
1750C
1550C
14~15
Single Lacoste
45 % to 50%
1750C
1600C
14~15
Depend on fabric G.S.M
Polo Pique
45 % to 50%
1700C
1600C
18~20
Depend on fabric G.S.M
Interlock
0 % to 15%
1800C
1650C
16~18
Depend on fabric G.S.M
For Cotton Fabric:
Fabric Type
Overfeed %
Temperature0C
Speed (m/min)
Stretch (%) Inch
Light
Color
Deep
Color
Single Jersey
60 % to 75%
1650C
1600C
15~17
3~4
Single Lacoste
60 % to 70%
1650C
1600C
14~15
2.5~3.5
Polo Pique
60% to 65%
1650C
1600C
14~15
2~3
Interlock
60 % to 70%
1700C
1550C
12~14
2
Rib
60 % to 70%
1650C
1500C
12~14
2
N.B: All this data’s are suitable for this machine only. All this parameters are suitable for. Grey G.S.M range 140~160 to get Finished G.S.M 170~185 without Lycra Fabric
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N.B: If fabric is less Redder than the standard one, then increase the temperature, reduce steam.
If fabric is less Yellowier than the standard one, then increase the temperature, without steam.
If fabric is less Bluer than the standard one, then reduce the temperature, increase steam.
N.B: Polyester rib fabric is finished in tube form. All this data’s are practiced in mills which may vary with the change of fabric type. The quality assurance department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform quality of the material; in process and various stages of its manufacturing.
GARMENTS
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Image of a Garments M/c The garment production processing steps and techniques involved in the manufacturing garments for the large scale of production in industrial basis for business purposes is called garments manufacturing technology. Garments Manufacturing Process: Stepwise garments manufacturing sequence on Rupa Fabrics Ltd is given below: Design / Sketch Pattern Design Sample Making
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Production Pattern Grading Marker Making Spreading Cutting Sorting/Bundling Sewing/Assembling Inspection Pressing/ Finishing Final Inspection Packing
This is the Basic Production Flowchart of a Garment. In advance some of the process can be added or removed.
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Image of Piping Ribbon
Image of Neck Rib by over lock M/c
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Image of servicing ribbon
Image of servicing by over lock M/c
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Image of Piping by Over lock M/c
Image of Swing Operation
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Image of Servicing
Image Body Attaching
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Image Neck Joining
Image of attaching mobilen tap
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Image of Piping by feed of the M/c
Image piping by over lock M/c
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Image Sleeve Joining
Image of Button Attaching
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Quality Assurance System
Quality Control: Mainly this factory follows ISO Standard. But testing Standard depends on buyer requirements.
List of Equipments:
Computer
Light box
Electric Heater
Sample Dyeing M/C
Electrical Balance
pH meter
G S M Cutter
Washing M/ C
Shrinkage & Spirality measurement instrument
Quality Assurance Procedure: Quality assurance Procedure may be divided two major Parts:
1. Online quality Control
2. Offline System Control
Objects of quality control:
Research.
Selection of raw materials.
Process control.
Process development.
Product testing.
Specification test
Scope of Quality Control, Quality Assurance and Testing:
Testing Lab
Machine-Auditing System
A good Training System
Technical Expertise
On Line test:
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G S M of the fabric
Exact Diameter and Width
Grey Fabric Inspection
Shade Check
Bias and Bowing
Visual Appearance (Enzyme Performance)
Off Line Test:
All the off line tests for finished fabrics can be grouped as follows –
Physical Test and
Chemical Test
Physical Test:
Finished Fabric Dia
G S M of Fabric
Rubbing Fastness
Pilling Test
Diameter and Width
Light Fastness test
Course Per inch
Wales per inch
Finished Fabric dia: In Knit, dyeing finishing, finished diameter is Very important factor. It should be kept as the buyer requirements. Simply a measuring tape measures it. Finished diameter is controlled at compacting m/c.
G S M Test: G S M is the most important factor. There is a G S M Cutter. The Sample cut by this weighted in the electronic balance. The reading (gm) from the balance multiplied by 100 to get Value of G S M.
Rubbing Fastness test:
Purpose: The fastness test to rubbing is used on a Variety of fabrics to evaluate the transfer of surface from the test fabric when it applied surface friction or rubbed against a rough surface.
Rubbing fastness test is determined by Crock meter. The test fabric is clamped in the plate of the crock meter. A standard fabric is used for rubbing the test sample. `0 cycles are given manually by a handle. Then the standard fabric is assessed with the help of the grey scale. The scale is graded from 1 to 5, being the Poorest and 5 being and 5 being the best.
Pilling Test: Generally, pilling test is applicable for fabric with synthetic fabric. This test is carried out in pilling box. A Sample of 10 cm x 10 cm is sewn round a rubber tube. Then the tube in the Pilling box and the door of it is closed. Then the meter is set for 14400 cycles. After the cycle is completed, the fabric is assessed by a special grey scale. The grey scale is provided Pilling box.
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Light fastness test:
Purpose: Light fastness is the test design to evaluate the laundering fastness test of dyeing, Pigment which re to be made in comparison of result obtained on many test pieces treated under light.
Method: ISO
Apparatus:
1. Light fastness tester & blue scale
2. scale
3. scissor
4. hard paper
5. 11cm X 4.5 cm
Procedure: At first, we took the blue woolen cloth & test sample. The blue woolen clothes were dyed with acid blue, 104,109 etc. Then we cut the woolen cloth & sample according to template. The blue woolen cloth is cut to make standard & sample is cut to test light fastness. Then we put the holder of woolen cloth and sample in the set of machine and set the time, which was 24 hrs. After completing the process we get the slandered test result. Then we compared with the standard rating.
Standard
Rating
8
Fast
7
Fast
6
Average
5
Average
4
Average
3
Average
2
Not fast
1
Not fast
Result: The test result of light fastness test is equivalent to the class of standard 6.So we can say that the color fastness of dyed fabric is average.
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Chemical Test:
Shrinkage and Spirality or Twisting
Fastness to wash
Fastness to Perspiration
PH test
Wash fastness Test:
Purpose: The resistant of color of my dyed or printed material to washing is known as Wash fastness.
The test fabric is sewn with multifibre such that two multifibre strip remain at the both side of the test fabric. Then they are washed with the following recipe:
Liquor Ratio: 1:50
5 gm fabric + 250 cc water + 4 g/l detergent + 1 g/l sodium perborate +10Steel balls.
Washes with: 40º c x 30 min
Then the multifibre is detached from the test fabric. It is dried and wash fastness is assessed by grey scale.
Color Fastness to Perspiration:
Purpose: To assess the degree of change of shade or cross staining due to Perspiration.
Method: ISO
Reagent: Acidic Solution:
L Histadine monohydrochloride monohydrate 0.5 g/l
NaCl 5g/l
Sodium Di– Hydrogen Orthophosphate dehydrate 2.2 g/l
Reagent: Alkaline Solution:
L Histadine monohydrochloride monohydrate 0.5 g/l
NaCl 5g/l
Di – Sodium Orthophosphate dehydrate 2.5 g/l
Temp 37º C
Time 4hr
Multifibre 4cm
Water 1000ml
Test Specimen: Fabric (4x 10) cm
Procedure: (Alkaline Perspiration)
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Keep the specimen in contact with S.D.C multifibre stripe of (4x10) cm
Allow the Specimen to soak for 4hr min
Place the specimen glass slide and lightly scrap of with a glass rod.
Place the specimen indicator for hrs at 37º C. Then remove from incubator
Open out keep sometime in open air.
Repeat the same process with another specimen using the acid solution.
Assessment: Assess the change in color of each specimen and the staining of the multifibre strip using the grey scale.
Report: Record the change in color of each specimen and & the staining of the individual components of the multifibre adjacent fabric separately for both the acid alkaline test.
PH Check:
Purpose: To fulfill the buyer requirements to keep the pH of the fabric as Per standard.
Method: ISO
Procedure:
Take many Pieces of 10 gm sample
Take 250ml of distilled water (pH – 5.5 to 7.5) in Conical Flask.
Shake them for 10 min in normal temperature.
Temp:95 º C
Standard pH range for colored fabric 6 to 8
Standard pH range for colored fabric 5 to 8.
Shrinkage and Spirality Test: Shrinkage and Spirality both are very important for
Control the quality of fabric.
Buyer’s requirements:
Template size: 50cm & 50cm
Shrinkage: length wise--- 5%
Width wise----5%
Spirality: Left -------- 5%
Right -------- 5%
Procedure:
At first take two ply of fabric & put the template (50cm) on to the fabric. The template has 8 holes. Both length & width wise the template holes can measure 50 cm at 3 places.
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Then we mark the 8 holes by permanent marker & also at the edges of the template.
Then sewn the fabric & it is given to the washing m/c for run at 60°C for 60minutes
with water. After that dry the sample & then measure the fabric
Spin speed --- 500rpm
Drum speed--500rpm
Calculation:
Shrinkage Test:
Lengthwise:
After wash – Before wash
= ----------------------------------×100
Before wash
Width wise:
After wash – Before wash
= ----------------------------------×100
Before wash
Spirality test:
=
Length(width for H&M)
2
Left side Right side
× 100 %
Quality Control: Mainly this factory follows ISO Standard. But testing Standard
depends on buyer requirements.
Remarks: Quality Control is the most important department in every Textile industry.
It is strongly recommended that the Quality should be maintained as exactly the
buyer’s requirements.
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MAINTENANCE
Maintenance:
The act which is done to Keep the factory plan equipments machine tools etc. in an optimum working condition, minimize the break down of m/c's to improve Productivity of existing m/c tools and avoid sinking of additional capacity and to Prolong the useful life of the factory plant & machinery is called Maintenance.
Objectives of Maintenance:
To Keep the factory Plants, equipments, Machine tools in an optimum working condition.
To ensure specified accuracy to product and time schedule of delivery to customer.
To keep the downtime of Machines to the minimum thus to have control over the production Program.
To Keep the Production cycle within the stipulated range.
Preventive Maintenance:
In Rupa Fabrics Ltd the Preventive Maintenance is a predetermined routine activity to ensure on tome inspection or checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to Production break downs or harmful depreciation.
Break down Maintenance:
Maintenance
Preventive Maintenance
Mechanical Maintenance
Electrical Maintenance
Break down Maintenance
Electrical Maintenance
Mechanical Maintenance
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In this case, repairs made after the equipment is out of order and it can not perform its normal functions.
Rupa Fabrics Ltd. follow the above two types Maintenance.
Maintenance Tools & Equipments and their functions:
Combination tools (Spanner)
Function: Tightening & Loosening of Nuts & bolts.
Socket Ratchet set
Function: Tightening of Nuts & bolts.
Slide Range
Function: Tightening & Loosening of Nuts & bolts
Pliers
Function: Tightening & Loosening of Nuts & bolts
Pipe threat Cutting Tools
Function: To Cut the threat in Pipe.
Bearing Puller
Function: To assist the Opening of bearing from shaft.
Pipe Range
Function: Tightening & Loosening of Pipe Joint
Pipe Cutting Tools
Function: For Pipe Cutting.
Hole Punch
Function: Punching the hole.
Divider
Function: For circle marking on metal & wood
Easy Opener
Function: To open the broken head bolt
Heavy Scissor
Function: Cutting of gasket & steel sheet
.
Oil Can
Function: Oiling of moving Parts.
Drill M/C and Drill bit.
Function: For Drilling.
Grease Gum.
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Function: For greasing of moving Parts of M/C
Girding M/C
Function: For grinding & Cutting of mild steel.
Welding M/C
Function: For welding & Cutting.
File
Function: For Smoothing the Surface.
Hammer
Function: For Scaling & right angling.
Hacksaw blade.
Function: For metal Cutting.
Handsaw (wood)
Function: For wood Cutting.
Grinding Stone.
Function: For smooth finishing
Grinding Paste
.Function: For easy Cutting of metal
Maintenance Procedure:
Normally Preventive Maintenance is done here. During Maintenance Procedure following Point should be checked:
Maintenance: Mechanical
Machine: Dyeing M/C
Serial
Item need to be checked & Serviced
1
Creasing the winch bearing
2
Complete cleaning of Machine
3
Cleaning of drain Valves, replace scales if required
4
Check air supply filters, regulators and auto drain seals
5
Clean filters element and blow out
6
Greasing of unloading roller bearings
7
Checking of oil level and bolts of unloading roller gearbox
8
Checking of unloading roller coupling and packing
9
Checking and cleaning of main vessel level indicator
10
Check the oil level of Pump bearing and refill if required
11
Check the function of heat and cool modulating valves
12
Check all belts and belt tension
Maintenance: Electrical
Machine : Dyeing
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Serial
Item needed to be checked and serviced
1
Check & Clean fluff and dirt at all motor fan covers
2
Check all motors
3
Check Main Panels boards
4
Check Panels Cooling fan & clean it filter
5
Check all circuit breaker , magnetic contractors and relays
6
Check Main Pump inverter and its Cooling fan
7
Check Current setting of all circuit breaker & motor over Loads
8
Visual Checking of all Power & Control & Cables
9
Check all Pressure switches
10
Check Calibration of Main vessel
11
Check DC drive of kneel motors
12
Check Calibration of all additional tank
13
Check all Pneumatic solenoids
14
Check Calibration of Heating / Cooling
15
Check setting & operation of lid safety switches
16
Check all emergency switches
16
Check all indicating Lamps
17
Check all On / Off switches
18
Check all Signal isolators
19
Check Key Pad & display of Controller
20
Check Proximity Switches
Remarks: When I was trainee of Rupa Fabrics Ltd. then I saw that the Maintenance staffs and overhead of Maintenance department were skilled enough and efficient.
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Utility Service
Utility Facilities Available:
Utility Source Steam Boiler Gas TITAS Compressed air Compressor Electricity PDB & Generator Temp.Control AC chiller
Capacity and Other Technical Details:
Power (Electricity):
Generator house is the main Power Producing Plant of Rupa Fabrics Ltd. there are two Generators in Generators house. Specifications of two Generators are given below:
Specification of Generator
Image of Gas Generator
Boiler
Equipment Name : Gas generator
Nos. : 02
Manufacturer : Waukesha Power Systems
Model : UHP 7100GSID
Volts : 415/24 hr
RPM : 1000
Generator : 02
Type : Diesel Generator
Brand Name : Perkins
Origin : India
Model No : 350 – E
Rated Power : 350 KV
Maximum Current : 274 KV
Engine R P M : 1500
Volt : 400
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Boiler: Steam generator or boiler is usually a closed vessel made of steel. There is a boilers in Rupa Fabrics Ltd.
Function: Boiler function is to the heat produced by the combustion of fuel (Gas) to water and ultimately to generator steam. The steam produced may be supplied in wet processing department for –
Heating cylinder dryer
Steaming during dyeing
Objects: For supplying steam
Types of steam:
Wet steam
Dry saturated steam, and
Superheated steam.
Specification of Boiler:
Pretreatment of the boiler water:
Boiler feed water needs special standard. Any deviation from the required standard may result in scale formation, which eventually reduces the efficiency of the boiler. This ultimately affects the cost of steam generation and makes the production cost high. To maintain the required standard of the water, there should be some means to pretreatment that the boiler feed water. To protect scale formation of boiler, NELCO is used as chemical in water feed tank. 200 gm NELCO is injected per 12 hrs. In Rupa Fabrics Ltd. there are water softeners that act before the water enters the boiler.
Boiler No : 01
Brand Name : COCHRAN
Origin : Scotland
Type : Fire tube boiler
Max Heat Output : 5678kw
Pressure : 11 bar
Temperature : 188º C
Fuel : Natural Gas
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Safety Management:
Fire removal devices are attached into the wall of every floor. Working or using principles are attached with it. There are some hoses pipe attached long building.
Image of fire distinguisher
Every floor of this factory contains first aid box where there are some direction given. There are two well trained person are working in each floor.
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Store & Inventory Cost
Inventory is the stock of goods. It is a vital part of business. It protect against stock outs. The type of inventory carried in this factory as follows-
Gray fabric : Own knitted or imported
Dyes and chemicals : Local or Imported
Spare parts : Local or Imported
Packing materials : Local or Imported
Finished fabrics : Good or Rejected
Policy of store keeping: Normally first come first out policy can maintain in the company. Some case supposes according to needs of the company decide their opinion according to buyers wants.
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Cost Analysis
Cost analysis is the important feature of our garments production. Its starts from yarn producing period. It’s include with yarn dyeing, knitting, dyeing, garments manufacturing cost, transportation cost, personnel cost. Then we are service a production of a company.
There are some points are include of a garments production. These are given below:
1. Name of Buyer
2. Style no.
3. Fabrication
4. Gsm
5. Full Description of item
6. Yarn Price
7. Knitting charge per unit
8. Dyeing per unit
9. Process loss (During Dyeing)
10. Measurement consumption element
T-shirt/Polo Shirt:
Body Length
Chest/bottom width which more wide is the accept
Sleeve length
Pant:
o Total length/out seam
o Half thigh
Costing rule of a garments which are giving below:
Rules of Measurement of a T-shirt/polo shirt:
{Body length + Sleeve + 10 × (Chest + 4) × 2 × Gsm} ⁄ 10,000 ⁄ 1000 × Process loss%
Rules of Measurement of a Pan/trouser:
Total length + 10 × (Thigh + 4) × 4 × Gsm / 10,000 / 1,000 × 12 × Process %
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Merchandising & Marketing
There are two types of merchandising can be run the Rupa FabricsLtd. These are given as below:
1. Production Merchandising
2. Cost Analysis Merchandising
Production Merchandising:
In this section merchandiser are works to take order and after completion of ordered goods they arrived to the buyer.
At first they can get invitation notice from buyer. Buyer can sent notice by e-mail, Fax, meeting place. After invitation merchandiser are meets with buyer. Those are deciding their own agreement. There are some protocols held at the meeting. At this time buyer give a sample to the company’s merchandiser. According to agreement of buyers merchandisers are send the sample to the cost merchandiser to cost analysis. According to sample satisfaction they can take order hugely for bulk production.
Cost Merchandising:
When garments take a sample cost analysis can be done for sampling by cost merchandiser. Cost merchandisers are costing for a piece of garments. Then garments decide to bulk production according to garments piece of buyer.
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Social & Environment information
Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP):
Introduction:
ETP stands for “Effluent Treatment Plant”. Textile industries, particularly the dyeing component produce wastewater, otherwise known as effluent, as a by-product of their production. This effluent contains several pollutants, which can be removed with the help of an ETP.
The outputs from an ETP are normally “clean” water. Effluents from dye houses need to be treated to produce an effluent that confirms to Bangladesh environmental standards.
• The outputs from an ETP are normally “clean” water. Effluents from dye houses need to be treated to produce an effluent that confirms to Bangladesh environmental standards.
•
• Now I will try to mention some information about of an ETP which is used in the Rupa knit composite ltd. In Esquire knit composite, conventional ETP is used.
• The volume of ETP is 110 m3/day
Process Flow chart of Biological Effluent Treatment Plant:
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Function of different Unit of Biological Effluent Treatment Plant (E T P):
Screening unit: It works like a filter. By filtering waste water, it removes threads, pieces of fabrics, small metal pieces etc. In this unit a rotating brush is used for clean the pores if screen. The brush rotates periodically.
Storage and Equalization tank:
Waste Water
Lifting Pump Shump
Storage & Homogenizing tank
Sedimentation Tank
Return Sludge pump sump
Sludge Thickener
Screening
Neutralization Tank
De-colorant
Dosing
Land Filter Press
Polyelectrolyte Dosing
Biological Oxidation Tank
Distributor
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In this unit hot liquid waste to kept cool. Different waste water from varies process is stored and makes a homogeneous mixture by mixing different concentration of waste water.
The purpose of equalization for industrial treatment facilities are:
To help adequate pH control.
To minimize the chemical requirements necessary for neutralization 03. To prevent high concentrations of toxic materials from entering the biological treatment plant
Neutralization of waste water is performed by dosing 98% H2SO4 as required to control the PH Of waste water PH range 6.5 to 7.5.
It distributes the water to the biological oxidation tank. Continuous aeration is supplied here. Antifoam is dosed here to control the foaming in the oxidation tank.
Biological oxidation tank: It distributes the water to the biological oxidation tank. Continuous aeration is supplied here. Antifoam is dosed here to control the foaming in the oxidation tank. It is the heat of E T P. The entire harmful chemicals are damaged here by breaking their bonds. This is done by bacteria. To ensure the proper function work and growth of bacteria, few conditions must be maintained.
Primary clarifier: A primary treatment is intended for removal of floating and settles able materials i.e. suspended solids and chemical organic matter. Primary treatment consists of the following treatments; A. Coagulation - to coagulate the suspended solid to coagulate
• FeSO4 B. Flocculation - to flocculate by coagulants
• Polyelectrolyte C.Neutralization- to adjust the pH between 6.5 to 8.5 D.Sedimentation- to precipitate small suspended solids.
• All the above processes contribute to removal of substantial amount of all the polluting parameters.
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• The following chemicals are used in the primary clarifier. Namely:
01. Lime
02. Ferrous sulphate
03. Ferric Sulphate
04. Alum
05. Poly-electrolyte.
Settling tank / Sedimentation Basin:
A tank or basin in which waste water is held for a period of time, during which the heavier solids settle to the bottom and the lighter material will floats to the water surface. In this tank sludge is immersed and the harmless water is discharge to ponds, Land, river etc.
Secondary clarifier: Secondary treatment is carried out to removal biodegradable organic matters which include removal of BOD and COD & decomposition of organic matter. Biological treatment can be aerobic and anaerobic.
Sludge Thickener:
Sludge taken here from clarifier. Polyelectrolyte is dosed coagulate the sludge. After one hour of
Polyelectrolyte dosing aeration is stopped and fresh water discharge to drain when sludge is taken. The thickened sludge is transferred to the sludge thickener bed.
Sludge Thickener bed:
Here sludge is dried which is used as good fertilizer as well as fuel of brick field. Sludge is dried under the sunlight.
Required Chemical of Biological E T P:
H2SO4:
Function: Neutralize the waste water controlling the PH. It is auto dispensed in the neutralization tank.
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Polyelectrolyte:
Function: Used for sedimentation / sludge coagulation and also killing bacteria.
De-colorant:
Function: Used for removing color. It is used auto / manually in the sedimentation feeding tank.
Sodium Hypochlorite:
Function: It is used to kill the harmful bacteria. It is used in the biological oxidation tank.
Product Quality Checked:
o Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD)
o Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD)
o Total suspended solids
o Total dissolved solids
o Color
o pH etc.
o
Remarks: Waste water from processing industries e g. Dyeing , Printing , Finishing and washing causes great harmful effect on our environmental, As a result agricultural land loses its fertility, natural water becomes polluted aquatic life is destructive and crops are damages.
So, it is important to control ETP plan.
Water Treatment Plant
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Introduction:
In a textile processing plant, water is a vital raw material not only for the boilers supplying steam for heating and drying purpose, but also for the all wet process such as scouring, bleaching, dyeing, printing and finishing. Water with a high degree of purity is rarely obtainable from natural source. Supplies of water may be broadly classified into three groups-
1. Surface water
2. Subsoil water
3. Deep well water
In knit concern limited deep well water is used for wet processing units because water from deep wells is collected from a considerable depth below the ground. Such water is generally free from organic matters due to filtration and bacterial action. The mineral content, however, may be very high because of prolonged contact with several layers of rocks and soil.
Hardness of water: the presence of salts of calcium or magnesium in water is responsible hardness of water and leads to the formation of insoluble precipitates with soap. These may deposit on the goods, thereby assisting soiling and even impairing handle of the cloth. Usually they are not deposited evenly and is one of the causes if poor leveling in subsequent dyeing or from complexes resulting in dulling of shades.
Two types of hardness may be distinguished-
1. Temporary hardness
2. Permanent hardness
Temporary hardness arises from bicarbonates and can be removed simply by boiling when the bicarbonates precipitate as carbonates.
Ca (HCO3)2 CaCO3 + H2O + CO2
It is a contributory factor in the formation of scales in boilers, which is a deposit, amongst other things, of calcium carbonate and magnesium hydroxide, the latter is a product of magnesium carbonate.
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MgCO3 Mg (OH) 3 + CO2
Permanent hardness is associated with sulphates and chlorides of calcium and magnesium. These are highly soluble expulsion of dissolved gases makes no difference in their solubility. These require chemical treatment for their removal. Most waters contain both temporary and permanent hardness, but the proportion of the two varies.
Measurement:
It is possible to measure the level of hard water by obtaining a free water testing kit. These are supplied by most water softening companies. There are several different scales used to describe the hardness of water in different contexts.
Parts per million (ppm) Usually defined as one milligram of calcium carbonate(CaCO3) per liter of water (the definition used below)
grains/gallon (gpg) Defined as 1 grain (64.8 mg) of calcium carbonate per U.S gallon(3.79 liters), or 17.118 ppm
mmol/L (millimoles per liter) One millimole of calcium (either Ca2+ or CaCO3) per liter of water corresponds to a hardness of 100.09 ppm or 5.608 dGH since the molar mass of calcium carbonate is 100.09 g/mol.
Degrees of General Hardness (dGH). One degree of General Hardness is defined as 10 milligrams of calcium oxide per litre of water, which is the same as one German degree (17.848 ppm).
Various obsolete "degrees":
o Clark degrees (°Clark)/English degrees (°E) One degree Clark is defined as one grain(64.8 mg) of calcium carbonate per Imperial gallon (4.55 liters) of water, equivalent to 14.254 ppm.
o German degrees (Deutsche Härte, °dH) One degree German is defined as 10 milligrams of Calcium oxide per
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litre of water. This is equivalent to 17.848 milligrams of calcium
carbonate per litre of water, or 17.848 ppm.
o French degrees (°F) One degree French is defined as 10 milligrams of calcium carbonate per litre of water, equivalent to 10 ppm.
o American degrees one degree American is defined as one milligram of calcium carbonate per litre of water, equivalent to 1 ppm.
Because it is the precise mixture of minerals dissolved in the water, together with the water's pH and temperature, that determines the behaviour of the hardness, a single- number scale does not adequately describe hardness. Descriptions of hardness correspond roughly with ranges of mineral concentrations:
Methods of water softening: There are three ways in which hardness is removed on industrial scale-
Lime- soda process
Base exchange process
Demineralization process
Very soft: 0-70 ppm, 0-4 dGH
Soft: 70-140 ppm, 4-8 dGH
Slightly hard: 140-210 ppm, 8-12 dGH
Moderately hard: 210-320 ppm, 12-18 dGH
Hard: 320-530 ppm, 18-30 dGH
Very hard >530 ppm, >30 dGH
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In the primitive lime-soda process, hydrated lime and sodium carbonate are added to precipitate calcium and magnesium ions as compounds of low solubility. The method is less effective and produces a large amount of sludge. The pH of water also changes during treatment. The method is not useful particularly for the wet processing industry.
Both base-exchange and demineralization process are based on exchange of ions by natural products, zeolites,(Na2O)x(Al2O3)y(SiO2)z(H2O)n or synthetic ion exchange complexes. In demineralization process, two subsequent exchange process is used, one for the anions and another for the cations In WTP of Rupa fabric’sLTD base exchange process is used. In base-exchange reaction with hard water may be represented as follows:
Ca(HCO3)2 + Na2Z CaZ + 2NaHCO3 CaSO4 + Na2SO4 CaZ + Na2SO4
MgCl2 + Na2Z MgZ + 2NaCl
These reaction virtually go to completion and after hard water has percolated through a bed-exchange substance, generally presenting granular from (sieved to a particle size around 1-2 mm in diameter in case of zeolite), the water emerges with a hardness of 0.2 degree or even less.
Regeneration: However the base-exchange capacity is limited and will eventually become exhausted. Fortunately the process is reversible and the bed can be regenerated by passage of a concentrated salt solution.
CaZ + 2NaCl CaCl2 + NaZ
The calcium (or magnesium) chloride and residual sodium chloride are wasted away, and the regenerated sodium zeolite compound can be used again. The regeneration can be repeated for a large number of times until the granules break down into powder.
Advantages:
. It yields water zero hardness.
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. It occupies little space.
. There are no sludge to be deposited off.
. The process is very convenient.
Hardness test: Preparation of reagents-
1. Dissolve properly 1 gram Erichrome Black T indicator in 250 ml methanol.
2. 1 M Ethylene Diamine tetra acetic acid Disodium salt.
- Dissolve properly 262 gram of Ethylene Diamine tetra acetic acid Disodium salt into 500 ml of distilled water.
TEST: (In Rupa fabric’s LTD)
- At first 10 ml of softened water taken in a beaker.
- Ammonium buffer (1-2ml) solution & Erichrome Black T indicator (1-2 drops) added into it respectively.
- Then prepared EDTA solution drops into it until the color turns from pink to blue.
- Number of EDTA drop measures the hardness of softened water. For example if 1 drop is required for color change hardness counted as 10 PPM and similarly for two drops it will be 20 PPM. We have found, raw water hardness- 340 PPM And, soft water hardness- 20 PPM.
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Conclusion
Findings
At the end of our industrial training we can say that we have successfully completed our training at KNIT CONCERN Ltd. Every textile student should do their training attentively and regularly because it minimizes the gap between our theoretical and practical knowledge. By this industrial training we have gathered the practical knowledge about different production process, machinery maintenance, industrial management and the environment of the industry, which will help us in our job life. The KNIT CONCERN Ltd. management helped us a lot about our inquiry.
Limitations of the report:
Because of secrecy act, the data on costing and marketing activities have not been supplied.
We had a very limited time. In spite of our willing to study more it was not possible to do so.
Some points in different chapters are not included as these were not available.
It is not possible to hold the whole thing of a textile industry in such a small frame as this report. So, try our hard to summarize all the information that we are provided.
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There are some suggestions from us within our limited knowledge
SOME SUGGESTIONS:
Knitting production needs to increase as well as technical persons need to be employed.
More skilled labor should be used in a project and the overall efficiency will increase.
Dyeing floor should keep always neat and clean. It kept wet after unloading the fabric from the dyeing machine specially, for Athena. Water must be swept time to time.
During the transport of the fabric and during the loading of the m/c, fabrics get soiled due to their drawing over the floor. This makes the fabric/part of the fabric dirty. It may require more scouring/bleaching agent or may create stain.
Due to the pressure of higher production some times machine operators do not maintain accurate time according to the actual process so that less quality product is produced and may reject. So our suggestion is to increase machine and reduce the pressure on the operator.
Should increase understanding between the top level personal and floor level personal.
Finishing section need to be enlarged well as more technical persons need to be employed there?
The m/c stoppage time should be analyzed and minimized. The maintenance should be carried out when the m/c is out of action (Wherever possible) and routine maintenance should be carried out regularly.
In knitting and finishing section every workers should use mask to make protect them from fly. Otherwise the exhaust air system should be more effective.
Workers are not interested to wear their gown & hand gloves.
There is shortage of proper light in the dyeing and finishing floor, specially, when smoke is produced from dryer and stenter. Proper lighting should be provided in the floor.
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In Laboratory, only one sample dyeing machine is used. The rest two are
out of order. So, if this activate one is in problem then the lab dip process may be hampered. So, another lab dip dyeing machine may be purchase to reduce the load of current one.
The person at the top level of a department must take good care of the trainees & he should provide all kinds of support to them.