1. 3rd season of country’s first ever competition for textile, garment &
fashion design students.
Development of Denim effect
on
knitted fabric
Prepared by:
Md. Salim Azad Didar
TTH ID: SEU-10
Department of Textile Engineering
SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY
Mobile: 01671412254
Email: salim_didar16@hotmail.com

2. The growth paradox
Courtesy: Bangladesh Textile Today

3. Growth in Knit & Woven Exports
Courtesy: Bangladesh Textile Today

4. How Far are we?
X

7. About Denim
• The story of jeans begins in the mid19th century simultaneously in two
European cities: Nîmes in France, where
the fabric itself was created, the socalled “Serge de Nîmes” which led to the
name “denim”.
• The classical denim is a heavy fabric
made from 100% cotton and woven
from coarse indigo dyed warp and grey
undyed weft yarn.
• The traditional denim is hard- wearing,
high density fabrics with a high mass
per unit area and a 3/1 or 2/1- twill
weave and 1/1 chambray construction.

8. Comfortable
Risky
Adventurous
Relaxing
Glamorous
Attractive
Aggressive Smart Casual Dynamic
Energetic
Fashionable
Universal
LIFESTYLE

9. World Market
Analysis

10. World Market Analysis
• The world market for denim jeans is projected to exceed
$65 billion by the year 2015.
• This is primarily driven by a rapid rise in the number of
customers purchasing denim jeans that offer better fit,
superior style, durable quality, and an affordable price tag.
• Denim is the most preferred clothing of today’s youth and
accounts about 3% of total world fabric production.
• Conventional woven denim is not as soft in texture as other
knit fabrics and so applications of denim in fashion design
is limited.
• The immense numbers of almost two billion pairs of jeans
are produced each year, claiming about 10 percent of the
worldwide cotton harvest

11. Denim in Bangladesh
• Bangladesh has come up as the third most important
exporter of denim apparel to US after Mexico and China and
second highest to EU after China.
• Bangladesh is also one of the cheapest production centers
for apparel around the world.
• In Bangladesh the market for denims is dominated only by
jeans wear. Therefore we need to focus on fashionable
elements on denim fabric.
• This lead to the idea of creating denim effect on knitted
fabric.

13. Woven fabric
Knit Fabric

14. Why knit Denim
•
•
•
•
•
•
Value addition
Softness
Stretch ability
Comfort
Pliability
Breathability

15. Knitted denim creating new business opportunities
Recent survey on children’s denim products showed that
• comfort,
• softness and easy care,
Parents and Children
• lightweight and
• fabric quality of the attributes.
Knitted denim fabric with its
• delicate structure,
• clear lines,
• soft, breathable comfort,
• playing quality thin features is the ultimate solution putting
both fashion and comfort in balance.

16. With the varieties of knitted denim continues to expand,
knit denim can be used as
•Absorbent,
•Antibacterial
•Health Care Purposes, as well as in
• T Shirts,
•Children's Clothing,
•Sleepwear,
•Underwear,
•Sportswear,
•Casual Wear,
•Fashion, Etc.

17. Woven Denim Production Process Flow Chart
• Cotton → Spinning mills → Yarn → Dying & sizing factories
→ Weaving → Denim fabric → Finishing → Cut and sew →
Garment washing factories → Quality inspection &
Packaging→ Wholesale markets Retailers → Consumers
Rope Dyeing
Weaving

19. Flow Chart of knit denim
Yarn
Yarn
Indigo dyeing of
yarn
Yarn Dyeing
Beams are created
knitting
Converted to Indigo
cheese
Finishing
Reactive dye process
Knitting
Finishing
Indigo dye process

20. Comparison between woven and knitted denims
Woven
Knitted
Rigid
Highly extensible
Easy to tear
Difficult to tear
Gets Crease And Wrinkled easily
Highly Crease resistant
Stiffer
Limb
Air Permeability is Less
Air Permeability is More

21. Merits of knitted denim
The knitted denim offers the following advantages in comparison
with its woven counterpart:
 The comfort ability of knit denim garments is better than woven
denim garments.
 It mold and move easily with body movement.
 Its stretch ability is good.
 It resists wrinkles.
 Knit fabrics are soft and drape well.
 Air Permeability is more in knit fabrics
 Most important perhaps is that knits relate well to contemporary
life-styles.

22. Popular Denim Brands & buyers

23. Knit Denim products

24. Products
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Stretch denim
Capris
Jumpers
Vest
Leggings
Woman shorts
Skirts
Denim blouse
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Pajamas
Denim Skinny jeans
Jacket
Denim cardigan
Denim Shirt
T shirt
Polo Shirt
Children jeans

29. Methodology

30. Yarn Details
• Yarn Type
: 100% cotton combed
yarn, ring spun
• Yarn count
: 24/1
• Yarn origin
: India “Shankar”
• CSP
: 2420
• IPI
: 29.8
• CV%
: 7.0
• TPI
: 17.74
• Type of twist
: Z twist
• M/C brand for producing yarn
: Rieter

31. Figure: Yarn package
Photo Courtesy: Akij Textile Mills Ltd.

32. Yarn Dyeing
Photo Courtesy: Knit Concern yarn dyeing Ltd.

33. Yarn Dyeing Machine Specification
Machine type
: Sample Yarn Dyeing Machine
Brand
: Fongs
Origin
: China
Yarn quantity given for dyeing
: 6.4 kg
Yarn quantity received after dyeing
: 6.18 kg

34. Flow Chart of yarn Dyeing
Grey yarn received
Soft winding
Batching
Yarn Dyeing in Package
form
Hydro extractor
Dryer
Rewinding
Packing
Delivery

35. Yarn Dyeing Recipe
•
•
•
•
•
Total Weight of Yarn:
Liquor ratio:
No. of cone:
Yarn Type:
Dye color:
6.4 Kg
1:10
8
24/1 Ne
Navy blue
Dyeing(Dyes and Chemicals):
• Dekol-SN:
1.5 g/L
• Triplex-2146:
0.3 g/L
• Parma. NF:
0.25 g/L
• Rema. 4% Red RGB : 2.024 g/L
• Rema. 4% Navy RGB : 3.76 g/L
• Glauber salt:
80 g/L
• Soda:
5 g/L
• Caustic:
2 g/L
• Temperature:
90 ◦C
• Time:
40 min
• PH:
6.00

36. YARN DYEING
Sample Yarn Dyeing Machine
Hydro extractor

37. YARN DYEING
Radio Frequency Dryer
Rewinding
Photo Courtesy : knit concern yarn Dyeing Ltd.

38. Knitting

39. Knitting Methods
Yarn Type: 100% cotton combed yarn, ring spun
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Yarn count
CSP
IPI
CV
TPI
Dyed yarn : 6.18 kg;
Grey yarn : 6 kg;
Lycra
: 40 D;
: 24/1 Ne
:2420
:29.8
:7.0
: 17.74
No. of cones = 51
No. of cones = 48
No. of cones = 48

40. Knitting Machine specification
• Machine type
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Brand
Model
Cylinder Diameter
Needle gauge
Number of feeder
Number of needle
Rotation
: Single jersey Circular
knitting machine
: Well Run
: SHS-90
: 32”
: 24 G
: 96
: 2412
: Anticlockwise

41. Cleaning before Installation
Cleaning of CAMs
Cleaning of cylinders

42. Sinker CAM & Sinker Arrangement
Figure : Sinker placement
Figure: Sinker CAM
Figure: Placement of Sinker CAM

43. Needle Setup
Figure : Needle Setup

44. CAM Setup
Figure: CAM setup

45. Yarn Setup
Figure : Yarn Feeding

46. Lycra Attachment & Stitch Length Setup
Figure : Lycra Attachment
Figure : Stitch Length Setting

47. Maintaining Tension
Figure : Tension of the Yarn maintained
Take Down
Figure : Fabric Takedown

48. Inspection
Figure :Fabric Inspection
Photo Courtesy: Shohan knit Composite

49. Details On Produced Fabrics
N.B.: B= Blue Yarn; W= White Yarn

50. N.B.: B= Blue Yarn; W= White Yarn

51. Data Analysis
Experimental Data on Knit Denim
Experimental Data for Woven Denim

52. Visual Comparison Of Knit and woven Denim
Tuck Denim
Knit Denim
Woven Denim

53. Shrinkage

54. Spirality

55. Color fastness to wash

56. GSM before wash

57. GSM after wash

58. Fabric production cost:
24/1 Ne 100% cotton combed yarn price
Cost of 100 Kg of yarn = 4.5x100
=$4.5 per Kg
= $450
Yarn Dyeing cost
Process loss
Actual yarn dyed
Yarn dyeing cost for 96 kg
= $2.5 per Kg
= 4%
= 96 Kg
=$240
Knitting cost
Process loss
Actual Fabric to be produced
Knitting cost for 93kg yarn
= $0.31 per Kg
= 7%
= 93kg
=$28.83
Total Cost= $450 + 240+28.83
=$718.83
Total cost to produce 1 kg of Knit Denim
= $7.73 per kg

59. Further developments
1. Knitting with indigo dyed yarn of proper flexibility in cone
form
2. Fading effect on reactive dyed yarn by advanced garments
washing technology
3. Creating options for cost minimization by knitting with
rotor yarn, polyester etc.
4. Creating new designs using other knitting machineries.
And more….

60. Conclusion
• To earn more= To invest more
• Adding value to our product is the ultimate solution to
boost and sustain in the future
• The two fabrics that got developed during this research are
softer and comfortable as well as less complicated to be
produced.
• Knit denim is the fabric of the future, a future that we must
understand and adapt so as to survive in this competitive
market.

61. Message
• Value Addition
• Technical textile
• Nanotechnology
• Non woven
• Plasma Technology
• Composite material
“I Believe”

62. Acknowledgement
• Md. Mahamudul Islam, Lecturer
• Prof. Fakhrul Hasan Murad, Chairman, Department of Textile
Engineering, Southeast University
• Prof. A.N.M Ahmedullah,
• Prof. Dr. Shah Mohammad Fatah –Ur- Rahman
Shohan Knit
Composite
Knit Concern Yarn Dyeing Ltd.
Akij Textile mills Ltd.

63. Thank
You…

64. QUESTIONS