www.systemic-design.net

1. 1RSD 2017 Marion REAL
Research-action applied to the design of a
flourishing community dedicated to sustainable
fashion in the Nouvelle Aquitaine region.
RSD Conference
The Oslo School of Architecture and Design
Marion REAL – m.real@estia.fr
Iban LIZARRALDE

2. Iban is specialized in systemics and
engineering design and works on the
management of innovation through different
approaches. Familiar with eco-innovation and
creativity tools, he completes his research
perimeter with new sustainable business
models and convivial approaches.
Iban LIZARRALDE
Marion REAL
With a strong background in user-centered
design, ergonomics & human factor, Marion
recently conducted a PhD in the field of eco-
innovation. Now, specialized in the field of
sustainable fashion and apparel business,
she is working on the recovery of clothing
and the design of supply-chains built around
natural fibers, recycled clothes and local
products.
Degrowth community
New Business Model (NBM)
Flourishing First Explorers
Design society
• Collaborations
• Strong affinities
• Involvement
in the network
2RSD 2017 Marion REAL

3. > Research questions
> Research action context and
methodology
Research action
And framework
Circular Fashion Systems
In local complexity
Case- study :
Nouvelle Aquitaine
> Fashion in transitions
> A convergent vision
of cosmopolitan localism for
systemic design researchers
> Rich Picture of the region
> Case-study comparison
Index
DISCUSSION,
FEEDBACKS
And PERSPECTIVES
3
Research-action applied to the design of a flourishing community
dedicated to sustainable fashion in the Nouvelle Aquitaine region.
RSD 2017 Marion REAL

4. Circular Fashion Systems
In local complexity
Clothing industry in transitions
Global Changes
Local transitions
Fashion system as a « process of production and consumption of garments/clothes »
Ethical fashion forum, labels like “Made In”, Oekotex
Gots or Fairtrade, circular awards,
Fashion Revolution movement, European Technology
Platform for the Future of Textiles and Clothing directives,
European research projects (Trash2Cash, Resynthex, Fibersort)
4RSD 2017 Marion REAL

5. RSD 2017 Marion REAL
Circular Fashion Systems
In local complexity
Quagliana’ BM archetype The TED’s tens Slow fashion
Materials / Resources Material sourcing Minimize waste
Local sourcing
Reduction of materials
Networks
People awareness/
autonomy
Pro-active consumer
Sufficiency / Reducing
the need to consume
Autonomy and
consumers need
Emotional design for long lifetime uses Activism
Consumer as co-
producer in supply
chain
Process/ production
Fair supply chains and zero waste
patterning
Ethical production
Worker rights and
quality of life
Re-scaling production & Re-localization
Preservation of
traditional skills
External stakeholders Government pressures & aids Not specified
Circular & smart &
functional business models
Closing loop, reusing, repair service and
remanufacturing
Circularity
Not specified
Multifunctional
design
Explore clean/better
technologies,
Dematerialization
Systems and services
development
Planet / Environmental
impact
Reduction of CO2 emission of distributors
Reduce chemical
impacts, energy and
water
Reduction of materials
• Quagliana, F., 2013. Le business model durable dans l’industrie du
textile. XXII Conférence Int. Manag. Strat. Clermont Ferrand.
• Earley, R. et al (2016). The Textile Toolbox: New Design Thinking,
Materials and Processes for Sustainable Fashion Textiles: Full
Research Report. MISTRA:Sweden.
• Fletcher, K. 2008. Sustainable Fashion and Textiles, Design Journeys,
Earthscan, London.
Global Changes
Local transitions
Designers
viewpoints
5
Local transitions ?

6. Circular Fashion Systems
In local complexity
• Cosmopolitan localism by Ezio Manzini
“a globalization based on interconnected localities, where many important decisions are made
locally by the people directly concerned, and more importantly, where for each step of the process
of production and consumption, much of the decision-making, know-how and economic value
remains in the hands, minds and pockets of the local communities”.
• Systemic design by Luigi Bistagnino
“Systemic design is a discipline that has its roots in cybernetics and the complexity of systems and it
regards the study of industrial and agricultural processes with an eye to transforming the output of
a process in a chain mechanism whose goal is the total elimination of manufacturing waste.”
A convergent vision of cosmopolitan localism
for systemic design researchers
• To reach strong sustainability, some authors advocating the necessity to both focus on a smaller territorial
framework and to define systems that are in line with the values of environmental and social justice.
>> Bioregionalism (Georgescu-Roegen, 1971), conviviality (Illich, 1973) or sufficiency (Schumacher, 1973)
6RSD 2017 Marion REAL

7. Research action
And Framework
Designing (circular fashion) systems in a cosmopolitan localism perspective involves the
creation of conditions at different scales to help the emergence and the development of
active and strongly sustainable communities.
This rises some questions from design and management research perspective:
1) How to support the design for local value creation (Tyl et al., 2015) in small-scale territories?
2) What is the role of regions (Lizarralde et al, 2014), intermediary organizations (Howell, 2006)
(Agogue, 2012), social entrepreneurs and citizens in such transitions?
3) What kind of technologies and business models can foster the dynamism of a cosmopolitan localism ?
Questions from design research perspective
7RSD 2017 Marion REAL

8. Research action
And framework
Context and methodology
Setting up the
context
Holistic / Rich picture
of the territory
Comparative study
of local fashion sub-systems
*INTERREG EUROPE Retrace project
dedicated to apply systemic design
into regions
*The construction of a solidarity textile
group for Nouvelle Aquitaine created
in 2016.
*Local entrepreneurship initiatives.
• Co-working space O.H
• Creative reuse center
• Hemp production project
• Semi-industrial upcycling project
Four projects
1 post-hoc grid of analysis
• Paths of creation
• Territory scales
• Materials / Resources (type and collection)
• Processes & Design & Technologies
• Revenue model & financial investment & needs
• Juridical forms/governance model
• People awareness/autonomy/ Cultural dimension
• Planet
An heterogen level of immersion for researcher
Collective action aimed to
endeavor the development of
activities around the valorization
of used textiles and old clothing
in local places
8RSD 2017 Marion REAL

9. Case- study :
Nouvelle Aquitaine
Holistic / Rich Picture
References:
Directory of repair stakeholders: www.dechets-aquitaine.fr/reparacteurs
Regional Nouvelle Aquitaine Platform : RECITA- recita.org
Data collected from the solidarity textile cluster flyers
Holistic diagnosis – Nouvelle Aquitaine, step 3 of the Retrace project. (available on request)
9RSD 2017 Marion REAL

10. RSD 2017 Marion REAL
Case- study :
Nouvelle Aquitaine
Holistic / Case-study comparison
C1 – Co-working C2 – Semi-industrial upcycling C3 – Creative reuse center C4- Hemp production
Paths of creation
2012 – Cooperation between
independent sewers in a house
2014 – From furniture to multi-material
industrial upcycling center
2015 – From reuse to self-learning and
upcycling center
2016 – Local Hemp production with a
multi-application perspectives
Territory scales
City of Cambo +
Basque country
Regional collection + production in Cap Breton
- National selling via platform
All in South Basque Country
69 723 habitants
Production in LANDES
International commerce via online
website
Materials / Resources Donation of used clothes
Service provision with companies/eco-
organisms/waste centers
Donations of different materials
Individuals/Waste centers/companies
Local culture of hemp field.
Conventional seeds
Processes
Design
Technologies
Individual creations
Collective shops
Reused cutting and sewing machines
Design // Collection // Standardization //
production //selling Modular and eco-design
Scissors & semi-industrial crusher
1 local
First collection process and weekly
workshops
Donation of machines/ low cost machines: 3
sewing machines
Mutualisation of maker spaces
Cultivation, cleaning, sorting
Production for textile products in
Romania
Hemp scarificator
Revenue model
financial investment &
needs
Monthly second-hand shops
Creators shops /Market selling
Designer’ rent
Training
Membership fees
2 social jobs
Access to a low rent by cityhall
Service provider : collection, reuse and
training
High price products
Franchise models
More than 15 social jobs
Regional funds
Free space and market
Membership fees
Selling products Free or low prices for
reusing and fair/ethical/medium prices for
upcycled products.
2 Social jobs
Regional/European funds
Selling hemp products strategy pricing
according to industry (food or
clothing)
Juridical
forms/governance
model
Association
Independent brands for local sewing.
n.a
Association
Perspective of creation of a new commercial
structure with external shareholders.
Strong leadership/social entrepreneurship
Association
Future cooperative “SCIC”
Open/direct democratic value
Company SAS “Chanvre de
l’Atlantique”
Brand: Nunti Sunya
People awareness/
autonomy
Integration in local events/territorial
animation
Schools / Accessible courses /
Sharing tools & experiences
Value creation / training path/reinsertion for
social employee.
Training addressed to professional/customers.
Intervention in N.A networks
No citizen access
Local networks
Autonomy by sharing freely knowledge and
products
Accessible learning
Ambassador of hemp virtue // Hemp
community
Invested in Anti-Fashion movement
Planet
+ Improvement of LCA in uses and
end of life stage.
+ Working with fabric scraps
+ Short-loop transports
- No imposed design practices.
148 tons of wastes collected in 2015. (50%
upcycled + 50% recycled in eco-
organisms/waster centers)
Eco-design value : functional design
Potential of reuse of 7% of local waste
presented in waste centers for textile
products.
+ No herbicides, fungicides and
insecticides are needed to grow
industrial hemp. It Favors insect
pollinators
+ 11 times less water than cotton T-shirt
Donation vs
Purchasing
Village, life
area,
region
Craft vs
industrial
Dependance
on social
funding
Diversification
of revenues
Access to
citizen and
openess vs
profitabiliy
Managing
environmental
values and
critical
thinking 10

11. > Research questions
> Research action context and
methodology
Research action
And framework
Circular Fashion Systems
In local complexity
Case- study :
Nouvelle Aquitaine
> Fashion in transitions
> A convergent vision
of cosmopolitan localism for
systemic design researchers
> Rich Picture of the region
> Case-study comparison
Index
DISCUSSION,
FEEDBACKS
And PERSPECTIVES
11
Research-action applied to the design of a flourishing community
dedicated to sustainable fashion in the Nouvelle Aquitaine region.
RSD 2017 Marion REAL

12. FEEDBACKS and
PERSPECTIVES
Systemic view of local fashion challenges
Level of automatization
Empowerment in sustainable behaviors
REGIONAL
POLICIES
CONVIVIAL
TECHNOLOGIES
SOCIAL
DIMENSIONS
Textile and fashion local system
TEXTILE INTERMEDIARY
ORGANIZATIONS
Resources and knowledge
Emergence and synergies
Immersive cooperatives
Mutualisation platforms
Open and eco-design
Worker conditions
Participative Management
Extended responsibility for all stakeholders
Access to abandoned and local places
Local and transparent governance
12RSD 2017 Marion REAL

13. Resources, materials
and products
Caracterisation
Workshops and
prototyping
Networks and business
model innovation
• Material
(type, quantity, quality)
• Tools and equipment
(sewing and cutting tools)
• Territorial and social context
• Free repair and upcycling
Workshops
• Co-Creation of upcycled
capsule
• Design session aroud
natural and local output
• Use of Eco-design tools
• PSS, renting models
• Cooperative governance
• Financing aids
Perspectives for Local Fashion Systems FEEDBACKS and
PERSPECTIVES
• Recommendations in
regional action plans for
Circular Economy via
RETRACE
• Animation of local
upcycling projects
• Supervision of students via
the ESTIA chair for
innovative textile materials
• Research for funding /
collaborative projects /
Inspiration
13
> Transforming the Nouvelle Aquitaine collective action in a textile intermediary organisation ?
RSD 2017 Marion REAL

14. Dissemination
7 Field visit
40 good practices
7 inspiring videos
1 Book • Go on our website
(www.interregeurope.eu/retrace/)
• See all videos of Field Visit in Youtube
channel or daily data in #Retrace
@interregeurope
 Three works to disseminate and improve :
• Conviviality tool (Lizarralde, I., & Tyl, B. (2017). A framework for the integration of the conviviality
concept in the design process. Journal of Cleaner Production.
• MIRAS (marionreal.wix.com/mirasen) Real, M. (2015). Accompagner la maturation des concepts au sein des
processus d’éco-innovation: proposition de la méthode MIRAS, pour aider à surmonter les fixations collectives et
explorer les réseaux de parties prenantes (Doctoral dissertation, Université de Bordeaux).
• Annual Projectic’s book and information of the community :
14RSD 2017 Marion REAL

15. Réferences
Agogué, M. (2012). Modéliser l’effet des biais cognitifs sur les dynamiques industrielles: Innovation orpheline et architecte de l’inconnu.
Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Mines de Paris.
Bistagnino L. (2011). Design Sistemico. Progettare la sostenibilità produttiva e ambientale. Slow Food® Editoresrl © 2011, Bra, Italy.
Earley, R. et al (2016). The Textile Toolbox: New Design Thinking, Materials and Processes for Sustainable Fashion Textiles: Full Research
Report. MISTRA:Sweden.
Fletcher, K. 2008. Sustainable Fashion and Textiles, Design Journeys, Earthscan, London.
Georgescu-Roegen, N. (1971). The law of entropy and the economic process. Harvard University Press. Cambridge, MA, USA.
Howells, J., (2006). Intermediation and the role of intermediaries in innovation. Res. Policy 35, 715–728.
Illich. I. 1973. Tools for Conviviality. Calder & Boyars, London.
Lizarralde, I., Tyl, B., & Bonvoisin, J. (2014). Socially Responsible Regions: a Localism Business Model to enhance eco-innovation. In ISPIM
Conference Proceedings (p. 1). The International Society for Professional Innovation Management (ISPIM).
Lizarralde, I., & Tyl, B. (2017). A framework for the integration of the conviviality concept in the design process. Journal of Cleaner
Production.
Manzini, E. (2013). Resilient systems and cosmopolitan localism—The emerging scenario of the small, local, open and connected
space. Economy of Sufficiency. Wuppertal Special, 48.
Real, M. (2015). Accompagner la maturation des concepts au sein des processus d’éco-innovation: proposition de la méthode MIRAS,
pour aider à surmonter les fixations collectives et explorer les réseaux de parties prenantes (Doctoral dissertation, Université de Bordeaux).
Tyl, B., Lizarralde, I., & Allais, R. (2015). Local value creation and eco-design: A new paradigm. Procedia CIRP, 30, 155-160.
15RSD 2017 Marion REAL

16. Research-action applied to the design of a
flourishing community dedicated to sustainable
fashion in the Nouvelle Aquitaine region.
RSD Conference
The Oslo School of Architecture and Design
Marion REAL – m.real@estia.fr
Iban LIZARRALDE
THANKS
Any notes
and questions ?
16RSD 2017 Marion REAL