This document provides an overview of cosmetics including: 1. A brief history of cosmetics from ancient Egypt to modern regulations. 2. Classification of raw materials used in cosmetics such as preservatives, colors, emollients, and hydrating substances. 3. Descriptions of common raw materials including their functions, chemical classes, and uses in cosmetic formulations.

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2. CONTENTS
Introduction
History of cosmetics
 Raw materials and their classification
References

3. II NNTTRROODDUUCCTTII OONN
 word derived from Greek KKOOSSMM TTIIKKOOSS means ‘having the
power,arrange,skilled in decorating.
 AAccccoorrddiinngg ttoo FFDDAA--
Articles intended to be rubbed , poured,
sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into ,or otherwise applied to the
human body, for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or
altering the appearance

4. TThhee BBeeggiinnnniinngg ooff
CCoossmmeett iiccss
 The first archaeological evidence of
cosmetics is found in Ancient Egypt
in the year 4000 B.C.
 Ancient Greeks, Romans and
Egyptians used cosmetics out of
mercury ,white lead, and myrrh

5. 1155TTHH --1166TTHH CCEENNTTUURRYY
 Italy and France became the chief centers of cosmetic manufacturing
 France begin to create new fragrances and cosmetics by blending ingredients

6. 1199TTHH CCEENNTTUURRYY
 Cosmetic deodorant was invented in 1888, by an unknown inventor from
Philadelphia.
 France develop chemical processes to replace fragrances made by natural method
 Zinc oxide widely used as facial powder- replaced mixtures of lead and copper
a

7. CCoossmmeett iicc rreegguullaatt iioonn 77
Voluntry guidelines
In the 1930s manufactures employed chemists in quality control
&development laboratories .
In 1940 British govt start licensing toiletry &cosmetic factories.
The perfumery manufactures association was formed in 1945
Consumerism
Grew in 1960s &1970s in USA and in UK &rest of Europe.

8. CCLLAASSSSIIFFIICCAATTIIOONN OOFF CCOOSSMMEETTIICCSS
Cosmetics
Skin hair nail hygienic
Powder compact creams lotions colorants
Face powder
Astringent
Body powder
lotion
Compact
powder
Prickling heat
powder Cold cream
Vanishing cream
All purpose
cream
Cleansing cream
Emollient cream
Foundation
cream
Lipstick
Hair remover
Depilator
Epilator
Shaving creams
Hair wave ppn
Hair dressing
Hair conditioner
Shampoo
Hair dyes, lotions
Eye lash (mascara)
Eye brow pencil
Eye lid inside
Nail lacquers
Lacquers remover
Nail polish
Cuticle remover
Dental Bath
Powder
Paste
Dentifrices
Lotion
Mouth
washes
Bath
soap

9. RAW MATERIALS:
1) Antibacterial agents and preservatives
2) Colorants
3) Skin feel agents
4) Hydrating substances
5) Ceramides and lipids
6) Moisturizers
7) Thickners

10. RAW MATERIALS
8) Uv filters
9) Skin whitening: ellagic acid
10) Skin whitening: new hydroquinone combination
11) Alpha hydroxy acids
12) Surfactants
13) Anti-irritants for surfactant based products

11. RAW MATERIALS
14) Seawater salts
15) Silicones-A key ingredient in cosmetic and toiletry
formulations
16) Antioxidants
17) Dexpanthenol
18) Hair conditioners

12. RAW MATERIALS
1.ANTI BACTERIAL AND PRESERVATIVES:
 The term “antibacterial agent” is largely used to qualify
chemical agents, which are included in cosmetics or
household products to provide them. . .
I. Bactericidal or bacteriostatic activity
II.To protect the product by providing a preservative
efficacy against micro-organisms.

13. RAW MATERIALS
ANTIBACTERIALS AND PRESERVATIVES:
Historically, the first antibacterial products developed
were skin wash products such as soap bars, derived from
deodorant soap bar.
 The purpose was not only to clean the skin but also to
reduce its microbial flora.

14. RAW MATERIALS
TOPICAL ANTIMICROBIAL PRODUCTS:
Triclocarboan (TCC) Most
antibacterial soap bar contains TCC as the active
ingredient.
Formaldehyde In the past,
antibacterial soap bars were prepared with formaldehyde.
These were very effective for hospital use, but the use of
formaldehyde declined due to toxicity reasons.

15. RAW MATERIALS
TOPICAL ANTIMICROBIAL PRODUCTS:
 Triclosan
Currently a max of 1%of the liquid soaps are formulated
with triclosan.
Safety of the regular use of TCC and triclosan were
extensivly discussed by FDA.

16. RAW MATERIALS
TOPICAL ANTIMICROBIAL PRODUCTS:
 The FDA prepared a final monograph in 1994 in which
topical antimicrobial products were classified in three
categories:
1.Antiseptic hand wash or health care personnel hand wash.
2.Patient preoperative skin preparation.
3.Surgical hand scrub.

17. Most commonly used
preservatives
Preservative
Activity
name
spectrum
Compatible
with
Inactivated
by
Optimum
PH
Parabens: esters of
benzoic acid
Fungi, gram
positive
cationic Anionic,
nonionic,
proteins
<7
Imidazolydinil urea Broad, weak
against fungi
Anionic, nonionic,
cationic,
proteins
4-9

18. Preservative
name
Activity
spectrum
Compatible
with
Inactivated by Optimum PH
Diazolydinil urea
isothiazolones
broad Anionic,
nonionic, cationic
Bleach, high PH 4-8
formaldehyde broad Anionic,
nonionic, cationic
T>60 C 4-9
Hydantoin
benzalkonium Cl
Gram positive,
gram negative,
weak against olds
Nonionic,
cationic
Anionic, proteins,
soaps
4-9
2-bromo-2-
nitropropane 1,3-
diol
broad Anionic,
nonionic, cationic
Heat, high PH,
cysteine,
aluminium
<6

19. RAW MATERIALS
2.WATER:
 It is the most widely used raw materials in the
manufacture of cosmetics.
 Water is used as a solvent for many ingredients of
cosmetics.

20. RAW MATERIALS
3.COLORANTS:
The use of coloring agents for decorative purpose is one
of the earliest cultural accomplishments of humankind.
The dramatic boom in the development of color industry
led to numerous new colorants and pigments
Inorganic pigments are used in large quantities

21. RAW MATERIALS
3. COLORANTS:
In coloring decorative cosmetics several products are of
vital ipmortance:
e.g titanium dioxide is most important white pigment
Iron oxides and iron hydroxides for the colors yellow,red
and black,ultramarine especially in blue and
violet,prussian blue,coal black.

22. RAW MATERIALS
3.COLORANTS:
By combining iron oxides with titanium dioxide various
brown tones can be created in makeup and toning creams
The most significant colorant is composed of the organic
colorants and pigments
Mainly these are
azo,triarylmethane,anthraquinone,xanthene or
phthalocyanine colorants and pigments

23. RAW MATERIALS
CLASSIFICATION OF COLORANTS:
 Based on its solubilty there are three classes
1.Colorants that are soluble in the medium being
colored(usually water or oil soluble)
2.Pigments and colour lakes that are not soluble in the
medium being colored
3.Water dispersible colorants

24. RAW MATERIALS
Although there are approximately 160 approved cosmetic
colorants ,but only a limited number of them are really
used

25. RAW MATERIALS
COLORANT GROUPS:
 WATER SOLUBLE COLORANTS:
Creams,soap,toothpaste gel,mouthwash,bath
products
 OIL SOLUBLE COLORANTS:
Oil products and soap
 PIGMENTS:
Makeup powder,lipstick,soap,toothpaste

26. RAW MATERIALS
COLORANT GROUPS:
COLOR LAKES:
Eye makeup,lipstick
WATER DISPERSIBLE PIGMENTS:
Soap

27. RAW MATERIALS
4.SKIN FEEL AGENTS:
Substances conferring sensorial properties to a skin care
product,triggering pleasant perception during application
onto the skin and after use
It includes:
lipophillic materials,silicones,water soluble
polymeric substances and their cationic derivatives

28. RAW MATERIALS
CFTA CLASSIFICATION:
CFTA divides skin conditioning agents into various
groups e.g
emollients,occlusive materials and miscellanous
substances including cationic macromolecules and
surfactants

29. RAW MATERIALS
EMOLLIENTS:
Cosmetic ingredients which help to maintain the
soft,smooth and pliable apperance of the skin
Obtained from natural origin or by chemical synthesis

30. RAW MATERIALS
EMOLIENT CLASSIFICATION:
1: polar substances(esters and triglycerides)
2:non polar substances(paraffins and iso paraffins)
As a class they comprise lipids,oils and their
derivatives,fatty acid esters,lanolin derivatives and
silicones.

31. RAW MATERIALS
LIPOPHILLIC EMOLLIENTS AND OCCULUSIVES:
They comprise vegetable oils ,triglycerides,mineral
oil,natural or synthetic waxes,fatty acid esters,lanolin oil
and its derivatives
Commonly used in liquid skin cleansing products

32. RAW MATERIALS
HYDROPHLLIC LIPIDS:
Preferred for foaming skin cleansing preprations
It includes ethoxylated glycerides,low ethoxylates
triglycerides,ethoxylated mono and di
glycerides,propoxylated fatty alcohols

33. RAW MATERIALS
LANOLIN:
Extracted from sheep wool grease
Complex mixtures of esters of high molecular weight
lanolin alcohols and lanolin fattyacids
Free lanolin alcohols ,acids and lanolin hydrocarbons are
minor
75 mole ethoxylated lanolin is recommended as skin
conditioner in soaps and liqiud cleansing products

34. RAW MATERIALS
WAXES:
Some common waxes used in cosmetics are beeswax,
candelilla, carnauba, polyethylene, and paraffin
Commonly used in lip balms and sticks, waxes function
as structuring agents, giving the stick enough rigidity to
stand up on its own, as well as barrier properties

35. RAW MATERIALS
WAXES:
Often waxes are combined with compatible oils to
achieve the desired softness.
Waxes are particularly useful in hand creams and mascara
emulsions for their thickening and waterproofing
properties.

36. RAW MATERIALS
SOFT PARAFFIN:
Soft paraffin – mixture of hydrocarbon obtained from
petroleum
Two types- yellow and white soft paraffin
Emollient in nature
 Hydrophobic in nature –produce occlusive film which
prevents water loss from skin

37. RAW MATERIALS
LECITHIN:
Natural mixture of polar and neutral lipids
It softens,nourishes the skin and provides a non greasy
long lasting skin feel and quality(creaminess,richness and
slipperiness)

38. RAW MATERIALS
SILICONE DERIVATIVES:
Mainly used in body cleansing products
It includes:
Dimethicones(used in liquid cleansers)
Cyclomethicone(dry emollients)

39. RAW MATERIALS
HUMECTANTS:
Cosmetic ingredients intended to increase the water
content of top layers of skin
Examples includes Glycerine,propylene
glycol,sorbitol,xylitol
Ethoxylated methyl glucose,lactic acid,sodium lactate
Conditioning humectants i.e chitosan

40. RAW MATERIALS
6.HYDRATING SUBSTANCES:
They are used in cosmetic products to retard moisture loss
from the product during use and to increase the moisture
content in material
Function is generally perfomed by humectants and
hygroscopic substances
Target areas are dry hair and dry skin

41. RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL CLASSES OF HYDRATING
SUBSTANCES:
 They include:
butylene glycol
glycerine
lactic acid
propylene glycol
sorbitol
urea
panthenol

42. RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING
SUBSTANCES
1. BUTYLENE GLYCOL:
Used as humectant in topical products
Oftenly used in hair sprays and setting lotions
Alcohol retards loss of aromas and preserves
cosmetics

43. RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING
SUBSTANCES
2.GLYCERINE:
 Used as
solvent,plasticizer,sweetner,lubricant and preservative
 20-25% conc are used in moisturizers for treatment of
dry skin conditions

44. RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING
SUBSTANCES
3.LACTIC ACID:
 It has been used in topical preparations because of
its buffering properties and water binding capacity
 It is also used for the treatment of dandruff,
keratosis,dry skin and acne
 Also to improve the clinical appearance of skin

45. RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING
SUBSTANCES
4.PANTHENOL:
 It is an alcohol which is converted in tissues to D-pantothenic
acid(Vitamin B5),a component of coenzyme
A in the body
 It is widely used in cosmetic industry for its
moisturizing and soothing properties
 It is found in topical treatment for rhinitis,skin repair
and sunburn.

46. RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING
SUBSTANCES
5.PROPYLENE GLYCOL:
 It is widely used in cosmetic manufacturing as
a solvent and vehicle
 It has been tried in treatment of number of skin
disorders including ichthyosis and seborrheic dermatitis
 Useful for treatment of skin irritation and
sensitization reactions

47. RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING
SUBSTANCES
6.PROTEINS:
 Proteins and aminoacids used for cosmetics are
based on natural sources
 Collegen is the traditional protein used in
cosmetics
 But their inclusion in cosmetics may require
stronger preservatives

48. RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING
SUBSTANCES
7.SORBITOL:
 It occurs naturally in fruits.
 It is used as sweetner in toothpastes.
 Sorbitol, glucose, and other sugars are also
commonly used to hydrate the skin.

49. RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING
SUBSTANCES
8.UREA:
It is used as 10% cream for the treatment of
ichthyosis and hyperkeratotic skin disorders
and in lower concentrations for the treatment of dry skin

50. RAW MATERIALS
7.CERAMIDES AND LIPIDS:
The majority of emollients used in personal care and
beauty items are fats and oils, also called lipids.
 Many of the major cosmetic companies are moving
away from animal-based materials to renewable
vegetable-based materials.
Cocunut oil and palm kernel oil are often used.

51. RAW MATERIALS
7.CERAMDES AND LIPIDS:
Petroleum-based emollients such as petroleum jelly and
mineral oil are found in many formulations.
Silicone oils such as cyclomethicone, dimethicone are
often added to increase slip and emolliency.
 Long-chain alcohols, also called fatty alcohols, are useful
as emollients and emulsion stablizers.

52. RAW MATERIALS
8.MOISTURIZERS:
Moisturizers are generally polar materials that are
hygroscopic in nature they hold onto water
Glycerin is a very cost-effective ingredient used to help
reduce TEWL.
Aloe contains a mixture of polysaccharides,
carbohydrates, and minerals, is an excellent moisturizer

53. RAW MATERIALS
9.THICKNERS:
By incorporating enough wax into a thin lotion, a thick
cream can be formed. Many thickeners are polymers e.g
cellulose and carbopol.
Carrageenan, pectin, and locust bean gum are all
examples of cosmetic thickeners.

54. RAW MATERIALS
10.ACTIVE INGREDIENTS:
Materials that work physiologically within the skin or aid
in protecting the skin are called active ingredients.
Fruit acids are an example of an active material. Also
called alpha hydroxyacids.
They have the ability to penetrate the skin.
Thousands of cosmetic actives are used to affect the skin
in a variety of ways.

55. RAW MATERIALS
10.ACTIVE NGREDIENTS:
Some active materials are added to skin treatments to
protect the skin from the environment. Dimethicone and
petrolatum are examples of skin protectants.
Salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide are important
ingredients because of their anti-acne activity.

56. RAW MATERIALS
11.SUNSCREENS:
Sunscreens are a class of compounds that protect the skin
from ultraviolet radiation.
Octyl methoxycinnamate, octyl salycilate, titanium
dioxide and avobenzone are some important topical
sunscreens.
They can be classified depending upon the wavelengths
they absorb.

57. RAW MATERIALS
11.SUNSCREENS:
Benzophenone 4, a water-soluble UV filter, is commonly
used to protect the color of cosmetic products.

58. RAW MATERIALS
12.PRESERVATIVES:
Most cosmetic products require the addition of
preservative to prevent microbial contamination and
rancidity.
Parabens and ester of parabenzoic acid are the most
commonly used because of their effectiveness against
gram-positive bacteria.
Phenoxyethanol is used to protect against gram negative
strains.

59. RAW MATERIALS
12.PRESERVATIVES:
Antioxidants such as tocopherol (vitamin E) are also
added to prevent oxidation of sensitive ingredients as well
as protect the skin from free-radical damage.

60. RAW MATERIALS
CLASSIFICATION OF PRESERVATIVES:
Based on the chemical nature preservatives are classified as
follows:
1.ORGANIC ACIDS:
Benzoic acid,formic acid,salicylic acid,P-hydroxy
benzoic acid.
2.ALCOHOLS:
Ethyl alcohol,isopropyl alcohol,chlorobutanol

61. RAW MATERIALS
CLASSIFICATION OF PRESERVATIVES:
3.ALDEHYDES:
Formaldehyde,cinnamic aldehyde
4.PHENOLIC COMPOUNDS:
Cresol, P-Choloro m-cresol phenol

62. RREEFFEERREENNCCEESS
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_cosmetics
http://www.cyonic-nemeton.com/Cosmetics.html
http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/history.php
Cosmetics and Perfumes, Egypt, 10,000 BCE by Mindy Cohen, 1999
A History of Fragrance ©1995 Kathi Keville and Mindy Green
A Hand book of cosmetics by B.M.Mithal & R.N.Sharma
Poucher’s perfumes, Cometics and Soaps 10th edition