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1. Fashion in History: A Global Look
Tutor: Giorgio Riello
Week 20
Tueday 2 March 2010
Subcultures: Zoots to
Chays

3. Dick Hebrige, Subculture: The Meaning of Style (London
and New York, 1977), pp. 47-70: ch. 4. HC 1411.H3
(Also available as e-book).
David Muggleton, Inside Subculture: The Postmodern
Meaning of Style (Oxford, 2000), pp. 131-155: ch. 7
‘Resistance, Incorporation and Authenticity’. HD
5800.M8
Ted Polhemus, ‘Trickle Down, Bubble Up’, in Linda
Welters and Abby Lillethun (eds.), The Fashion Reader
(Oxford, 2007), pp. 327-331.

4. Skinhead wearing
Fred Perry
Scene from the
Film This is
England, 2007

6. 2. Subcultures from the 1930s to the 1980s

7. "a killer-diller coat with a
drape shape, reet pleats
and shoulders padded like
a lunatic's cell.“
Malcolm X

9. Teddy Boys 1962

10. Rockers 1964

11. Mods in Brighton 1964
Sixties fashion Mod Rockers Newcastle
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqbS7pxsTj8&feature=related

12. Students’
Protests in
1968

14. Woodstock festival, 15-18 August 1969

17. Amnesia’s members in 1976

18. Skinheads – Suedheads
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xd_GcDz7UQc

20. Quentin Crisp (1908-99),
author of The Naked Civil
Servant (1968)

21. Village People in the late 1970s 1980 thriller, Cruising
starring Al Pacino

22. Frankie goes to Hollywood and ‘Relax’
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPLrXFw76Qg&feature=related

23. Gay subcultures became
mainstream: The 2007
Cincinnati Gay Pride and the
cover of the gay magazine
Attitude

24. 3. Subcultures, Styles and Fashion

25. David Muggleton, Inside Subculture: The Postmodern Meaning of Style
(Oxford, 2000), pp. 131-155: ch. 7 ‘Resistance, Incorporation and
Authenticity’. HD 5800.M8

26. “If you see someone who, it just looks like they’ve just gone
out and spent two hundred pounds in London on the right
punk gear and someone’s put the safety pins through it for
them and someone’s put the studs on for ‘em and that, that’s
not right, is it? What’s the fun of that?”
Cit. in David Muggleton, Inside Subculture: Postmodern
Meaning of Style (2000), p. 145.

30. Sex Pistols - bill grundy tv show
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p25SdQEnhHI

31. 4. Subcultures and Fashion:
Theoretical Implications

32. Paul Blumberg, The Decline and Fall of the Status Symbol:
Some Thoughts on Status in a Post-industrial Society’,
Social Problems, 21, No. 4 (1974), pp. 480-498.

33. Cybermod

34. New Age Glam

35. Mohican Punk

36. Grafiti

37. Pervs and Trannies

38. Barbaric Dolls

39. Fetish

40. Chavs hitting Burberry in the pocket
http://search.bbc.co.uk/cgi-bin/search/results.pl?tab=av&q=chavs&scope=all

41. Tainted Love
1964 Gloria Jones
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSehtaY6k1U
1980 Soft Cell
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3fCFkl-BFU
2001 Marilyn Manson
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQuKo3SevVA
2005 Pussycat dolls
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w37thYX6aYM