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science smell fashion
biofeedback
scent interventions
to complement orthodox
treatments for chronic mental illness 
Jenny Tillotson PhD RCA FRSA
Churchill Fellow
2
Smell is *untapped* sense – personal – cannot switch it off
Using smell to keep the balance
Winston Churchill Travel Fellowship
Establish a new QS project through smell communication & olfactory tracking (e‐nose)
Personal CRUSADE: design behaviour change to benefit me:
1. Academic
2. Designer
3. Mother
4. Wife
5. Entrepreneur  ‐ exploit wearable technology and smell
Informed by 
• Living with and managing long‐term mental health condition (bipolar 20+ years)
• At times leaves me MUTE and unable to communicate
(Ironic? Fashion is a form of expression and communication) 
• STIGMA around  illness = social isolation
1
Use technology to break 
down issues . . . 
Induce positive states
Reduce the risk of a bipolar 
relapse via the use of 
evidence‐based scents
Sensory Fashion
stress management tools 
It will be more human ‐ closer to the 
needs of the people in terms of their  
wellbeing, not "well showing“ 
1980
”Fashion will change dramatically in the coming years
Inspiration . . . Sci‐fi fashion
Keep it green (balance): prevent triggers!
Manage Mood Swing
Complement taking meds
Bipolar I     Bipolar II 
What Drives Me?
Motivation to 
PREVENT  SLEEP & STRESS TRIGGERS
Is it 25‐50‐75% ? 
(both parents with the 
bipolar gene)
Invent a simple but effective way to manage a better life
– reduce stress / improve sleep / increase confidence 
New Scentsory Platform
• Build a customised ‘scent bubble’ 
NEAR THE NOSE!
• Find a calming method to reduce: 
• Stress (cortisol) = chaos, havoc, trauma
• Performance anxiety
• torrent of SWEAT
• Insomnia
• Loss of memory
Immediate Goal
‘UBIK’ 
UBIK (Philip K.Dick)  mystical bubble projection sprayed to 
stabilise a nightmare – reality‐in‐a‐can
Inspiration . . .  Sci‐fi ‐ ‘bubbles of reality’
Brave New World ‘scent organ’
1. wearable technology + fashion = 
jewellery, smart clothing
2. ‘Controlled miniaturisation’,  MEMS, IoT, 
nano, lab‐on‐a‐chip, biometric sensors
3. smell  communication, how this affects 
the brain, mood, feelings and senses
Creative Convergence of
eScent® platform technology
OLFACTORY NERVEOLFACTORY NERVE
Ancient Art of Perfumery + Emerging Technologies 
Build tools:
17th century: 
French:
alcohol‐based
Dry skin
3000 BC: 
Ancient Egypt: 
‘fragrant wax cones’
Messy  / Sticky
Perfumed Past to the Fragrant Future
21st century
eScent®
Computer‐controlled scent output
eScent®
Aromachology
the study of aroma and effects this fragrance have on human psychology and behaviour
Fashion: Smart Second Skin
Exhibitions  ‐ Science |  Art  Festivals  ‐ Catwalk Shows  ‐ Conferences  ‐ Debates  ‐ Installations – prototypes 
eScent®: wearable wireless device 
Scent By A Wireless Web 
Dispenser where frequency & type of scent delivery (“scent bubble”) is flexible & determined by the user
eScent: Sensing Smell tool 
1. Track Mood + Sleep 
2. eScent releases counteractive scents to relieve 
tension when stress levels exceed threshold
3. Select which aroma for me??
4. How does this make a difference?
5. EMPOWER!
Offers social and therapeutic value in a desirable fashion context
Real‐time Biofeedback Scent Interventions
Slim Barrett, London
Smell The Colour Of The Rainbow
Collaboration with Philips Stress & Sleep businesses on “Meaningful” innovations 
‐ demonstrated the benefits of scent on demand in ‘emotional products’ 
Colour + Scent
Sleep 1 – good sleep hygiene
Fismer KL, Pilkington K. Lavender and sleep: A systematic review of the evidence. European Journal of Integrative Medicine 2012;4:e436‐e447
Clinical evidence on the properties of lavender critically reviewed – a sense of relaxation
(caused by a release of serotonin)
Sleep 2 – wake‐up rise + shine
Citrus – stimulating, energising
Jasmine – sense of wellbeing 
Peppermint – invigorating 
Clinical evidence on the properties of citrus to reduce anxiety 
What did I learn . . .
• Olfactory tools taught me to re‐communicate and boost self confidence =
empowerment!
• Body odour holds much info about our emotional lives.
• Tracking emotional smells and learning early warning body signals (prodromal 
symptoms in mood disorders)
• Chronic social anxiety from increased cortisol levels in sweat can be treated 
with anxiolytic aromas i.e. sweet orange to create an immediate calming effect
• By using own personal experiences I am guiding new research projects . . . 
• Start new Fashion Communication projects and commercialise eScent.
reduce stress levels:  
neroli, citrus
increase alertness /energy 
peppermint
More relaxation, yoga, 
improve quality of sleep: 
lavender 
Personal quest to prevent relapse / stay focused
Endorsement from USA Psychiatric Community 
Fashion element + 
“De‐stigmatising”– PRODROME intervention:
– learn signs
– send feedback
Monitor little
cognitive shifts 
before bigger 
shifts appear
PRODROME “warning” Scent Interventions 
• Loss of confidence
• Irritable
• Insomniac
• Angry
• Anxious
• Drowsy
• Worried
• Tearful 
Build your own therapeutic rainbow:  peaceful > relax > energise > de‐stress > relief > calm 
rosemary
tarragon
A
B
C
lavender
new mown grass
tyme
D
E
F
G
geranium
sandalwood
basil
The scentOrgan was playing a
delightfully refreshing
Herbal Capriccio
rippling arpeggios of thyme
and lavender, of rosemary,
basil, myrtle, tarragon . . .
. . . a series of daring modulations
through the spice keys into
ambergris; and a slow return
through sandalwood,
camphor, cedar and . . .
new mown hay
‘Smart Second Skin’ Tailored To Fit Mood & Physiology
In tune with your body ‐ become accustomed to your OWN programmable palette of 
scents (rainbow)  ‐ changing over time . . Automatic access to wide range of scents
‘Scent Bubble’ – the science works!
Non invasive, localised ‘scent bubble’
– rate of scent diffusion and detection threshold calculated from composition of perfume ‘notes’ 
Develop eScent App  for wearable ‘scent bubble’
e‐Nose
®
Less 
stress
SET GOALS              TRACK MOOD             TRACK SLEEP        TRACK SMELL WATCH SELF
IMPROVE
Many other different applications, tools . . . 
Memory recall ‐ dementia
CBT Cyber tool – impact behavioural change
Curb  / enhance appetite . . . 
Learning, entertainment, etc
Diagnosing disease . . . eScent® 
BENEFITS
Wellness – recovery – action – plan ‐ new ways of living 
Thank you!
“Sensing Smell” 
breakout session
j.tillotson@csm.arts.ac.uk
@scentsory
Thank you!
j.tilotson@csm.arts.ac.ulk
@scentsory

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Jenny Tillotson: Science, Smell, Fashion