3. •Baluchar Sari is a type of sari, a garment worn by women
across India and Bangladesh.
This particular type of sari originated in Bengal and is
known for depictions of mythological scenes on the pallu of
the sari.
It is mainly produced in Murshidabad and producing one
sari takes approximately one week or more.
The fabric of Baluchari saree is very fine and transparent
mostly made of Murshidabad silk used with a soft drape
4. Two hundred years ago Baluchari was
used to be practised in a small village
called Baluchar.
The first Nawab of Bengal, Murshid Quli
Khan patronized this rich weaving
tradition and brought this craft to
Baluchar village in Murshidabad district
of West Bengal, from where it got the
name Baluchari.
The master weavers were provided with
cultivable land and ponds by Nawabs in
exchange of the exquisite weaves.
Murshid Quli Khan
5. • Dubraj Das was the last known weaver of the Baluchar
village, who died in 1903. He used to sign his saris like an
artist’s artworks, a rare phenomenon by any artisan. The
saris signed by him are still being found and procured.
•. After a flood in the Ganga river and the
subsequent submerging of the village, the
industry moved to Bishnupur village in
Bankura district.
•The sari industry prospered in Bishnupur,
Bankura during the reign of the Malla
dynasty.[
•But this flourishing trend later declined,
specially during British rule, due to political
and financial reasons and the weavers were
compelled to give up the profession.
Cont...
6. Cont…
• In 1956, Subho Thakur, a famous artist himself took to
revive this weaving tradition.
• He invited a master weaver named Akshay Das to the
Regional design center, and trained him in the
technique of Jacquard weaving.
• They both studied the Baluchari saris procured from
the family collection of Rabindranath Tagore.
• Akshay then worked tirelessly to own his skills and
train the other artisans of Bishnupur., the town re-
emerged as a weaving center for the famous Baluchari
silk saris.
7. • A Master Weaver, almost takes 20-25 days to complete
weaving a Baluchari Saree with exquisite design.
• Surprisingly, creation of its intricate designs with high
demand in the fashion world called for technical
intervention for easing out the production mechanism.
• The latest development in weaving technique of Baluchari
saree inspired scientists of Central Mechanical Engineering
Research Institute, Durgapur to develop a machine to
reduce the time of Baluchari saree weaving with an
attractive finish.
8. Cont...
• The innovated machine is called Jaquard Card
Punching Machine which can be operated for weaving
of computerized designs also.
• This machine will help a Master Weaver to complete
weaving of an exclusive Baluchari Saree within 10-12
days and will facilitate replacing of traditional motifs
and theme with an attractive and latest concept.
• The machine is likely to cost Rs. 1.5 to 2.0 lakhs if
commercially manufactured.
• NABARD has also taken up Baluchari as part of its plan
to promote traditional crafts of Bengal like Terra Cotta
and Bell Metal work.
9. •Cultivation of cocoons:-
•Processing of yarns:-
•The artisans of Bishnupur now source mulberry silk from
Bangalore and Mysore,
• It is first boiled in soda and soap mixture and then dyed in
acidic colors.
•The yarn is then transferred to small beams called ‘Sisaban’
and bigger beams called ‘Dhal’.
•While weaving, the artisan attaches these beams on the
loom and starts weaving.
•Motifmaking:-
• Making of the motifs for 'pallavs' and other part of
Baluchari is in itself an intricate process.
10. Cont...
Weaving:- After jacquard loom
has been introduced, weaving
of a Baluchari saree takes five
to six days to get completed.
Two weavers work on it on
shifting basis.
The design is drawn on a graph
paper, it is coloured and punching
is done using cards. After
punching, these cards are sewed in
order and fixed in the jacquard
11. The saris woven in Baluchari tradition are characterized by elaborate
motifs on border and ‘Pallu’.
Traditionally, scenes from religious epics and courtly ceremonies constituted the
motifs in Baluchari weaves.
The artisans also started accommodating Persian miniatures and images of
sculpture and paintings from temples or monuments in the weaves.
In 1957, Sri Das introduced Ajanta Eldora cave paintings as motifs on
Baluchari saris.
The weaving duration of one such sari is around 15-18 weeks; the process
involves expensive raw material and labor intensive technique.
12. • Baluchari saris today often have
depictions from scenes of
Mahabharat and Ramayana.
• During the Mughal and British
eras, they had a square design
in the pallu with paisley motifs
in them, and depicted scenes
from the lives of the Nawab of
Bengal .
13. • based on the threads used in
weaving the patterns:
• Baluchari: The most common balucharis
have threads in 1 or 2 colours to weave the
entire pattern
• Baluchari (meenakari): Sometimes,
balucharis have threads in 1-2 colours along
with attractive meenakari work in another
colour that further brightens the pattern
• Swarnachari (baluchari in gold): The most
gorgeous balucharis are woven with gold
coloured threads (sometimes interspersed
with a bit of silver) that illuminate the
14. • These saris were mostly worn by women from
upper class and Zamindar households in
Bengal during festive occasions and weddings.
15. • With the changing time, the baluchari saree gets a
make over & a touch of eco-friendliness in terms of the
used yarns & colours.
• Cotton Kapas is spun with fibres of banana plants and
bamboo shoots and the dyes are extracts of fruits,
flowers, leaves, and vegetables such as pomegranate,
jamun, neem fruits and leaves,, turmeric, marigold
flowers, mangoes and others.
• The organic baluchari cotton sarees were displayed in
the sari fair organised by Rang Mahal, a forum of
weavers from Nadia district in West Bengal.
16. • The Baluchari saree was one of the award winners for
the main weaving styles amongst thirty four National
Awards for the years 2009 & 2010 present by the Hon.
President Pranab Mukherjee
• Baluchari Saree of Bankura is also being showcased at
the India International Trade Fair organised at New
Delhi.
• The pavilion of West Bengal,has prominently displayed
those products of handicrafts and handloom sector
which have been recognised for their unique nature
keeping the theme "Skilling India" in view.