Textile internship report

1
Department of Textile Engineering
INTERNSHIP REPORT
(Industrial Attachment at Crystal Composite Ltd.)
Supervised by:
Md. Ramij Howlader
Lecturer
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology
By
Noorul Islam Saiful
ID: 132-071-0-155
Batch: 132 TE-2
September 2017

2
Declaration
I, Noorul Islam Saiful, hereby declare that the presented report of internship titled
“Industrial Training” is uniquely prepared by me after the completion of 6th weeks work at
Crystal Composite Ltd. in Khejur Bagan, Saver.
I also confirm that, the report is only prepared for my academic requirement not for any other
purpose. It might not be used with the interest of opposite party of the corporation.
…………………………….
Noorul Islam Saiful
ID- 132-071-0-155
B.Sc. in Textile Engineering
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology

3
Letter of Transmittal
Date: October 2017
To
Md Ramij Howlader
Lecturer
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT)
Uttara, Dhaka- 1230
Sub: Submission of Internship report.
Dear Sir,
With due respect, I’m the students of Textile Engineering, BGMEA University of Fashion &
Technology (BUFT) have successfully completed my industrial training program. In this
stage I’m submitting my internship report on ‘‘Crystal Composite Ltd.’’ as part of my B.
Sc. In Textile Engineering Requirement that bears three credit hours. I’m submitting this
report for my academic purpose only.
I therefore, hope that you would be kind enough to evaluate this dissertation with my valued
suggestion.
Sincerely yours
………………………
Noorul Islam Saiful
ID: 132-071-0-155

4
Acronyms
FOB- Free On Board
CAD- Computer Aided Design
CAM- Computer Aided Manufacturing
GM- General Manager
AGM- Assistant General Manager
CVC- Chief Value Cotton
PC- Polyester Cotton
GSM- Gram Per Square Meter
SMV- Standard Minute Value
SAM- Standard Allowed Minute
CPM- Cost Per Minute
GSD- General Sewing Data
UCL- Upper Control Limit
LCL- Lower Control Limit

5
TABLE OF CONTENTS
TOPICS Page No.
Introduction 1
Acknowledgement 2
Objectives 3
Scope of the study 4
Methodology 5
Executive summery 6
Factory Profile 7
CHAPTER ONE 10-26
Knitting
1. Organogram of Knitting Section
2. Definition of Knitting
3. Classification of Knitting
4. Knitting Structure
5. Warp and Weft Knitting
6. Knitting Variables
7. Different Parts Circular Knitting Machine
8. Classification of Knitting Section
9. Circular Knitting Section
10. Specification of Circular Knitting Machine in Crystal
Composite Ltd.
11. Process Flow Chart of Circular Knitting Section in Crystal
Composite Ltd
12. Information about Yarn Source
13. Types of fabric produced
14. Methods of increasing production
15. Fabric Faults , Causes, Remedies
16. Different Fabric GSM and Their Yearn Count
17. Quality Assurance System of Knitting Division
18. Fabric Inspection system

6
CHAPTER TWO 27-29
Batching
1. Batching
2. Object of Batching
3. Grey Fabric Inspection
4. Grading Procedure
5. Machineries in Batch Section
CHAPTER THREE 30-38
Dyeing
1. Organogram of Dyeing Section
2. Process definition
3. Knit Fabric Dyeing Operation Sequence
4. Machine Description of Dyeing Section
5. Dye & Chemical Used in Crystal Composite Ltd.
6. Different Dyeing processes
7. Processes with Respective Chemicals
CHAPTER FOUR 39-42
Finishing
1. Organogram of Finishing Section
2. Finishing Definition
3. Flow Chart of Finishing ( Tube Fabric )
4. Types of Finishing
5. Objects of Finishing
6. Machine Description of Finishing Section
CHAPTER FIVE 43-91
Garments
1. Organogram Garments Section
2. Sampling
o Sample Making Process Flow Chart
o Modular Production System
o Different Types of Sample and Definition
3. Garments Pattern
o Pattern Definition
o Steps of Pattern Making
o Block Pattern Making Method

7
o Computerized Pattern Making
4. Marker Making
o Introduction
o Types Marker Making
o Preparations of Marker Making
o Manual & Computerized Method
5. Fabric Spreading
o Definition
o Types of Fabric Spreading
o Objects of Fabric Spreading
o Method of Fabric Spreading
o Requirements of Spreading Process
6. Fabric cutting
o Organogram of Cutting Section
o Process Sequence of Fabric Cutting
o Requirements of The Cutting Process
o Methods of Fabric Cutting
o Fabric Consumption for T-shirt
7. Sewing
o Sewing Definition
o Types of Sewing Machine
o Production System
o Garments Manufacturing Process Flow Chart
o Parts of Sewing Machine & Their Function
o Sewing Machine Name & Specification
o Sewing Problems Causes & Remedies
o Various Defect in Garments
8. Garments finishing
o Process Flow Chart
o Finishing Definition
o Pressing
o Finishing Machine & Tools
o Spot Removing

8
9. IE & production planning
o Concept of IE
o Role of Industrial Engineer
o Industrial Engineering Work Process & Discussed
o What is Production Plan?
o Important of Production Plan
o Costing for Knitted T-shirt
o Some Formula for Industrial Engineer
o Operational Bulletin of a T-shirt
CHAPTER SIX 92-94
Conclusion
1. Conclusion
2. References

9
INTRODUCTION
Crystal Composite Ltd. is one of the country’s leading knit composite factories. It is a 100%
export oriented composite knit textile unit with the commitment to cater the global needs of
21st century for knit & casual clothing. The project has employed the state-of-art technology
in its every piece of investments. Aiming at the context of the changing global demand
pattern, international environment on trade specially the withdrawal of quota system and GSP
and the availability of craftsmanship in the country, the project has encompassed the knitting,
dyeing and processing of fabrics and ready-made garments production to be available from
one stop service.
The project ensures sampling to supply of finished ready-made garments all from one source,
ensuring in time delivery & complying quality. The machines &equipment setup for this
project are procured from world class brand, names that are renowned for their high quality,
product integrity & dependable production.
The manpower engaged in this project to carry out the day to day business is all highly
skilled, purely professional, vastly experienced. The unique combination of organized
managerial and technical term in one hand and latest, advanced and balanced technology on
the other hand made the project one of the top to be referred in this field in the country.
Crystal Composite Ltd. is committed not only to deliver world class product but also to
quality assurance, price affordability & social accountability.
Considering all the above features to learn about the technology of textile manufacture as
well as management & maintenance, Crystal Composite Ltd. was surely a good choice. I
feel very lucky to complete our industrial attachment here.

10
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
First of all, our gratefulness goes to Almighty Allah who gave us strength and ability to
Complete the industrial training and prepare this report; may your name be exalted,
Honored and glorified
Now I wish to take this excellent opportunity to thank a lot of people who have assisted and
inspired me in the completion of my training period.
Md. Ramij Howlader my supervisor, to whom i am extremely indebted for his tremendous
support and guidance throughout my training period. Being working with him I have not only
earned valuable knowledge but was also inspired by his innovativeness which helped enrich
my experience to a greater extent. His ideas and way of working was truly remarkable.
I also express my gratitude to Prof. Dr. Ayub Nabi Khan, Pro vc, And Prof. Dr. Abu Bakkar
Siddiqe, Head, Department of Textile Engineering, for his support and continuous guidance
through my long journey in BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology and the industrial
internship.
I would like to thanks the management of the Crystal Composite Ltd. for giving me the
opportunity to do the industrial training successfully and also their valuable suggestion. My
deepest appreciation goes to Nahid Hasan, Knit Dyeing Marketing Manager, Crystal
Composite Ltd. for his permission to conduct our industrial training without which it would
be uncompleted. The generous support is greatly appreciated. Also like to thanks executives,
senior executives and other officials of Crystal Composite Ltd. for helping me to complete
industrial training successfully. My gratitude also goes to the employees of Crystal
Composite Ltd. for their sincere co-operation, support and valuable advices.
Last but not least, thanks go to my precious family for their never ending love and inspire at
every stages of my life. Without their continuous I realize that I would not be a person I am
right now.

11
OBJECTIVES
a) To expose students to Engineering experience and knowledge. This is required in
industry, where those are not taught in the lecture rooms.
b) To get a feel of the work environment.
c) To apply the engineering knowledge taught in the lecture rooms in real industrial
situations.

12
SCOPE OF THE REPORT
The study is mainly concerned with the effectiveness of Apparel Manufacturing Technology
of Crystal Composite Ltd. Overviews of the operation& production process of the Crystal
Composite Ltd. is also covered in the report. This is a descriptive study and the respondents
are the whole staffs and executive of Crystal Composite Ltd. Working area will be factory of
Crystal Composite Ltd for preparing the report.

13
METHODOLOGY
To prepare the report used both primary and secondary data. The primary data were collected
from the officials of Crystal Composite Ltd. regarding the procedures of operation &
production.
For working in operation & production department for about two months gave a clear notion
about the activities done in that department. Working with other departments as well as
discussion with the staff of those departments provides a lot of primary information.
Secondary data were gathered from the annual reports, relevant published books.
In specific sense, the sources of information:
Primary Sources;
Personal observation
Discussion with the employees
Work in different departments
Secondary Sources:
Published Documents & internet

14
EXECUTIVE SUMMERY
Textile industry plays a very crucial role in the export scenario of Bangladesh. Textile
manufacturers produce the raw fabric that is eventually used in producing final garments.
There are many fabric manufacturers in Bangladesh, producing many different types of
fabrics. In context of 100% export oriented factory named Crystal Composite Ltd. is like a
shining star in the sky.
Crystal Composite Ltd. started its operation in 1993 and now it challenges the old and big
Composite factory of Bangladesh. All the big foreign buyers including GEMO, OLIMPIAS
SPA, KATAG AG, NORMA, LERROS, LA RADOUTE, EVER LAST, ELLOS, V & D etc.
have over-booked the monthly capacity of Crystal Composite Ltd. in such manner that
Crystal Composite Ltd. Now can not even possess any scope of taking orders from the local
buyers.
Such embellishment has occurred only because of maintaining good quality and ultimately
keeping the buyers satisfied from all respects. This is what I wanted to study, there lationship
between product quality and customer satisfaction of Crystal Composite Ltd. In order to
accomplish this job, I have analyzed the market and industry scenario, current condition of
Crystal Composite Ltd.
Finally, I have concluded with saying that the product quality of Crystal Composite Ltd. is
the main reason for its customer satisfaction. Over here, product quality doesn’t mean the
fabric quality only. It contains the over product, price, promotion, delivery, service, and
commitment quality of Crystal Composite Ltd. and its human resources.

15
FACTORY PROFILE
Name : Crystal Composite Ltd.
Status : Private Limited Company
Type : 100% Export oriented composite knit dyeing industry
Factory Location : Khejur Bagan, Ashulia, Savar, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Size of Factory : 60000 Sft. (Garments Factory), 40000 Sft. (Knitting & Dyeing),
40,000 Sft. (Printing).
Head Office : Road no # 8/B, House no# 17, Nikunja # 1, Khilkhet Dhaka
Bangladesh.
Product Mix : Auto stripe, Single jersey, Lycra single jersey.
Lycra rib (1x1, 2 x 2 etc.), Stripe Rib.
Lacoste (Single & Double), Fleece,Teery, Interlock.
Collar & Cuff.
And also mélange (grey, ash).
Total Man power : Two Thousand (2000)
Production Capacity:
The production capacity of Crystal Composite Ltd. are given below-
 Knitting: 5 ton/day
 Dyeing: 8 ton/day
 Finishing:8 ton/day
 Garments: 40,000 pieces per day (approx.)
 Printing: 60000 to 100000 pcs/day.
The production capacity of Crystal Composite Ltd. is an approximate idea, it may vary.

16
History of the Project Development:
Crystal Composite Ltd.started their business by some Dyeing m/c in 1993. Then at the end of
2006 they started their Fabric processing plant and after that gradually they expanded their
garments section and print shop.
Different Departments:
 Merchandizing & Marketing
 Design & Development
 Knitting Section:
a) Knitting
b) Grey inspection (Circular & Flat)
c) Store
 Dyeing Section:
a) grey inspection
b) batching section
c) dye house
 Dyeing Finishing Section
 Lab & Quality Assurance
 Print Shop:
a) Sample section
b) Production section
 Garments Section:
a) product development
b) sample section
c) spreading and cutting section
d) sewing section
e) finishing section
 Utility Section:
a) Compressor
b) Boiler
c) Generator

17
 Maintenance Section:
a) Electrical
b) Mechanical
 Supporting Department:
a) Admin, HR & Compliance
b) Training & Organizational Development
c) Purchase & Commercial
d) Store & Inventory
e) Finance & Accounts
Major Customers:
a) GEMO
b) LA RADUOTE
c) KATAG AG
d) LERROS
e) NORMA
f) V & D
g) OLIMPIAS SPA
h) EVER LAST
i) ELLOS
Physical Infrastructures:
The mill is built in such a way that there is possibility for further expansion of the mill. The
structure such as mill, office buildings, record rooms, guardrooms & dining room etc. are
made of solid hard concrete & brick mtls. The whole area is surrounded by safety brick wall
.The main set up for rn/c’s are built of corrugated iron & iron sheet, transparent hard plastics
with enough ventilation & scope for passing light & air.
Remarks:
Crystal Composite Ltd. is a profitable project and contributes the economy of our country.

19
KNITTING SECTION
Organogram of Knitting section:

20
Knitting:
Knitting is a technique to turn thread or yarn into a piece of cloth. Knitted fabric consists of
horizontal parallel courses of yarn which is different from woven cloth. The courses of
threads or yarn are joined to each other by interlocking loops in which a short loop of one
course of yarn or thread is wrapped over the another course.
Figure: Knitting
Definition:
Knitting is a process of fabric forming by the intermeshing the loops of yarns. When one loop
is drawn through another, loops are formed in horizontal or vertical direction.
Classification of Knitting:
Knitting
Warp Knitting Weft Knitting
Circular Knitting Flat Knitting
Single Jersey Double Jersey

21
Weft knitting:
Weft Knitting is a method of forming a fabric in which the loops are made in horizontal way
from a single yarn and intermeshing of loops take place in a circular or flat form on across
wise basis.
Figure: Weft knitting
Warp Knitting:
Warp Knitting is a method of forming a fabric in which the loops are made in vertical way
along the length of the fabric from each warp yarns and intermeshing of loops take place in a
flat form of length wise basis.
Figure: Warp knitting
Knitting Structure:
Course:
 The series of loops those are connected horizontally, continuously are called as
course.
 The horizontal row of loops that are made by adjacent needles in the same knitting
cycle.

22
Wales:
 The series of loops that intermeshes vertically are known as Wales.
 Vertical column of loops that are made from same needle in successive knitting cycle.
Knitted stitch:
The knitted stitch is the basic unit of intermeshing. It usually consists of three or more
intermeshed needle loops.
Stitch length:
The length of yarn required to produce a complete knitted loop ( Needle loop and sinker loop)
is known as stitch length or loop length.
Knitting Variables:
o Yarn Count
o Yarn Twist
o Spinning System
o Yarn Ply
o Stitch Length
o Yarn Tension
o Take Down Tension
o Machine Gauge

23
Different parts of circular knitting machine:
Creel: Creel is a part of a knitting machine. Hear yarn package are store and ready to feed
in the machine
VDQ pulley: It is a very important part of the machine. It controls the quality of the product.
Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley moves
towards the positive directive then the G.S.M. is decrease. And in the reverse direction G.S.M
will increase.
Pulley belt: It controls the rotation of the MPF wheel.
Brush: Its clean the pulley belt.
Tension disk: It confront the tension of the supply yarn.
Inlet and outlet stop motion: It is an important parts of the machine. It stops the machine
instantly when a yarn is break.
Yarn guide: Its help the yarn to feed in the feeder.
MPF Wheel: Its control the speed of the MPF. Pulley belt gives motion to the wheel.
Feeder ring: It is a ring. Where all feeders are pleased together.
Feeder: Feeder is help yarn to feed in to the machine.
Needle: It is a principal element of the knitting machine. Its help the yarn to create a loop.
And by this way fabric are produce. Prior to yarn feeding the needle is raised to clear the old
loop from the hook, and received the new loop above it on needle stem. The new loop is then
enclosed in the needle hook as the needle starts to descend.
Needle track: Where all needle is placed together in a decent design.
Sinker: It is most important element of the machine. Its help to loop forming, knocking over
and holding down the loop.
Sinker ring: Sinker ring is a ring. Where all sinkers are pleased together.
Cam box: Where the cam are set horizontally.

24
Cam: Cam is device s which converts the rotary machine drive in to a suitable reciprocating
action for the needles and other elements.
Lycra Attachment: Lycra is placed hear. And feeding to the machine.
Lycra stop motion: It is one kind of stop motion to stop the machine when the lycra is break.
Cylinder: Needle track are situated hear.
Cylinder Balancer: It helps the cylinder to set in a proper alignment.
Screen: It is a digital screen. Which show the all machine information and we can give
command to the machine.
Automatic oiler: Its give the machine oil all the time properly and automatically.
Power Switch: To give the power to the machine.
ON/OFF Switch: help the m/c to start and stop.
Manual drive: To drive the machine manually.
Machine motherboard: All the Electronic parts are placed hear.
Classification of Knitting Section:
The knitting section of Crystal Composite Ltd (Knitting Unit) is divided into two parts
although all the machines are placed into the same floor. The sections are-
1. Circular Knitting Section
2. Flat Bed Knitting Section
Circular Knitting Section:
Circular knitting machine is widely used throughout the knitting industry to produce fabric.
This machine can be built in almost any reasonable diameter and the small diameter of up to
five, which are used for wear.
Machine for outerwear and under wear may vary from 12 inch to 60 inch in diameter
according to manufactures requirement. This machine can be used either as fabric or for
making garments completely with fancy stitch.

25
Latch needles are commonly employed in all modern circular machines because of their
simple action and also their ability to process more types of yarns.
Plain circular machine uses only one sets of needles, circular rib machine uses two sets of
needles i.e. Cylinder needle and Dial needle, the interlock circular knitting m/c also uses two
sets of needles by needles are long and short respectively for both dial and cylinder, that is
why multiple design and thick fabric can be produce with that machine. That machine is also
called double Jersey machine.
Figure: Circular Knitting Machine

26
Circular knitting m/c Specification:
M/C No. Specification Model No. Brand Origin m/c Type
38 38’’ / 24G × 80F LTU/ 84A-A LISKY Taiwan Rib
40 40’’ / 18G × 144F - LISKY Taiwan Rib
42 42’’ / 24G × 126F - LISKY Taiwan Rib
26 26’’ / 24G × 78F SMS-SJ4/3 SMART Taiwan S/J
32 32’’ / 24G × 96F SMD-SJ4/3 SMART Taiwan S/J
36 36’’ / 24G × 108F SMD-SJ4/6 SMART Taiwan S/J
44 44’’ / 18G × 88F SMD-C4R2 SMART Taiwan Rib
88 88’’ / 24G × 240F SMS-SJ4/6 SMART Taiwan S/J
Process Circular Knitting Section in Crystal composite Ltd.
Sample Fabric
Design analysis
Machine Selection
Machine Setting for the Required Design
Knitting of the Fabric
Conform Required Quality

27
Withdraw the Rolled Fabric and Weighting
Inspection
Delivery
Source of Yarn:
 Local: 90-100%
 India, China & other Countries: 10%
SI. No. Manufacturer Country
1. The Delta Spinning Mills Bangladesh
2. RMT Textile Mills Ltd. Bangladesh
3. Prime Textile Ltd. Bangladesh
4. Mosharaf Textile Ltd. Bangladesh
5. J.K.C Cotton Bangladesh
6. Alhaj Karim Textile Ltd. Bangladesh
7. Mother Textile Ltd Bangladesh
8. Israq Cotton Mills Ltd. Bangladesh
9. CRC Textile Ltd. Bangladesh
10. Polyester USA
Types of yarn uses in Crystal Composite Ltd:
1. Cotton
2. Polyester
3. Viscose
4. Polyester/cotton
5. Polyester/viscose
6. Slub yarn
7. CVC

28
8. Lycra
9. Cotton/viscose etc.
Types of knitted fabric Produced by Circular knitting m/c:
1. S/l jersey
2. Rib
3. Interlock
4. Fleece
5. Terry
6. S/l Lacoste
7. Mash
8. Waffle
9. Mini Waffle
10. Double pique
11. Diagonal pique
12. Special pique
13. s/l jersey stripe
Types of fabric parts produced by flat knitting m/c:
1. Collar
2. Cuff
3. Bottom
Methods of increasing production:
By the following methods the production of knitted fabric can be increased –
1. By increasing m/c speed:
Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will be
increased. But it has to make sure that excess tension is not imposed on yarn because of this
high speed.
2. By increasing the number of feeder:

29
If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number of
courses will be increased in one revolution at a time.
3. By using machine of higher gauge:
The more the machine gauge, the more the production is. So by using machine of higher
gauge production can be increased.
4. By imposing automation in the m/c:
a) Quick starting & stopping for efficient driving system.
b) Automatic m/c lubrication system for smoother operation.
c) Photo electric fabric fault detector.
5. By imposing other developments:
a) Using creel-feeding system.
b) Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn
damage.
c) Using yarn feed control device.
Faults and their causes in knitting:
Hole mark:
Causes:
 Buckling of the needle latch
 Buckling the sinker
 Higher G.S.M
 Badly knot or splicing
 Yarn feeder badly set
Remedies:

30
 Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.
 Use proper count of yarn.
 Correctly set of yarn feeder.
 Knot should be given properly.
Star mark:
Causes:
 Yarn tension variation during production.
 Buckling of the needle latch.
 Low G.S.M fabric production.
Remedies:
 Maintain same Yarn tension during production.
 Use good conditioned needles.
Oil spot/Grease spot:
Causes:
 Excess oil/Grease use.
 Jamming of needle & sinker.
Remedies:
 Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance
Patta:
Causes:
 This fault comes from yarn fault.
 If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.
 Different lusture, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn.
 In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver.
Remedies:
 We can use this fabric in white color

31
Needle mark:
Causes:
 Faulty needle use in the m/c.
 If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics.
Remedies:
 Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.
Sinker mark:
Causes:
 Faulty sinker use in the m/c.
 If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.
Remedies:
 Sinker should be changed.
Fabric Shrinkage:
Causes:
 Yarn twist
 Twist Shrinkage
 Knitting tension.
 Fabric G.S.M.
 G.S.M. Shrinkage
Different fabric GSM and their yarn count:
S/J without lycra
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
110 – 120 40 S
– 36 S
120 – 130 36 S
– 32 S
130 – 140 32 S
– 28 S
140 – 150 28 S
150 – 160 26 S

32
170 – 210 24 S
Rib without lycra
180 – 190 36 S
– 32 S
190 – 200 30 S
200 – 215 28 S
215 – 230 26 S
230 – 250 24 S
250 – 300 24 S
Interlock without lycra
200 – 220 34 S
220 – 230 32 S
230 – 250 30 S
250 – 300 26 S
Lacoste without lycra
180 – 190 30 S
190 – 210 28 S
210 – 230 26 S
230 – 250 26 S
Lycra Rib or Lycra S/J –
180 – 190 34 S
190 – 210 32 S

33
210 – 220 30 S
220 – 240 28 S
240 – 250 26 S
Quality assurance system of knitting division:
Some points are needed to maintain for high quality fabric:
2) Brought good quality yarn.
3) Machines are oiled and greased accordingly.
4) G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately
5) Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month.
6) Grey Fabrics are checked by 4 point grading system.
Four (4)- point fabric inspection system:
Table:
Size of Defect Penalty Points
Length of defects in fabric (either length or width)
Defects up to 3 inches 1
Defects > 3 inches < 6 inches 2
Defects > 6 inches < 9 inches 3
Defects > 9 inches 4
Holes and openings(largest dimension)
1 inch or less 2
Over 1 inch 4

34
Calculation of total points per yards:
In 4 point system fabric quality is evaluated by unit points/100 sq. yds.
Points / 100 sq. yd. = (Total points in roll * 36 * 100)/ (Fabric length in yards * Fabric width
in inches)
Normally fabric roll containing 40 points per 100 square yard are acceptable.
Four (4) -Point system for knitting fault inspection:
Knitting fault Point
Slub 1
Any hole 4
Needle/Sinker line 4
Needle breakage(up to 10) 4
Press off 4
Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination up to 3″ in length 1
Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination above 9″ in length 4

36
Batching:
Batching is the receiving section of grey fabric and sending section of grey fabric to the
dyeing section which will dye. Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics which should
be dyed and processed for a particular lot of a particular order.
Objectives of batching:
 To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.
 Turn the grey fabric if require.
 To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria
 Order sheet (Received from buyer)
 Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)
 M/C capacity
 M/C available
 Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC)
 Emergency
 To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
 To keep records for every previous dyeing
Grey fabric inspection:
The inspection and grading of fabric quality is one of the important functions of Quality
Control in the grey or finished state, the grading of fabric is a difficult task, taking two
primary considerations: as the frequency of effects and the seriousness of defects. The
grading has two primary functions: First, to classify the fabrics according to standard
qualities based on the end-use and costumer demands and second, to supply information as to
the qualities actually being produced. The Knitted fabric can be classified into three levels of
quality, each one have a number of points for defects as follows.

37
The First quality level 40 points per 100 Linear Yards.
The Second quality level (40 – 80) points per 100 Linear Yards.
The Third quality level 80 points or more per 100 Linear Yards.
Grading procedure:
a) All open defects or major defects counted with 4 points per defect.
b) Surface defects over 9 inch length counted with 4 points per defect.
c) Surface defects 6 to 9 inches length counted with 3 points per defect.
d) Surface defects 3 to 6 inches length counted with 2 points per defect.
e) Surface defects up to 3 inches length counted with 1 point per defect.
f) Running defects, such as tucks, needle lines, barre, crack marks, are judgment defects
Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics which should be dyed and processed for a
particular lot of a particular order.
M/C in batch section:
No. of M/c: 01
Machine name: Air turning machine
Origin: KOREA
No. of M/c: 02
Machine Name: Air turning m/c
Origin: Local

39
DYEING SECTION
Organogram of Dyeing Section:
GM
Manager
Assistant Manager
Senior Production Officer
Shift In charge
Assistant Shift In charge
Senior Supervisor
Helper
Operator
Supervisor
Assistant Production Officer
Production Officer

40
Dyeing:
Textile coloration is a combination of some series processes such as scouring bleaching,
dyeing & after treatment which can be carried out at different stages of fiber processing in
different forms like staple, yarn, fabric (rope, open width, piece or garments). Piece (batch)
dyeing is carried out open-width or rope form in depending on rn/c type, product type & end
uses. Usually this type of materials is dyed in exhaust dyeing method in a single dyeing m/c
with different structure. Knit fabrics dyeing in batch process is very common in Winch
Dyeing m/c. In Crystal Composite Ltd. We are quite well-known that, actually Winch m/c
used here for knit dyeing.
Sequence of Operation for Knit Fabric Dyeing:
Knitted fabric ( Received from knitting )
↓
Batching
↓
Fabric turning
↓
Loading to the m/c
↓
Pre-treatment (Scouring & Bleaching)
↓
Dyeing
↓
Hot wash/ wash off & fixing
↓
Softening
Pre-treatment
(Scouring, Bleaching, Enzyming)
Lab sample dyeing
Sample sent to buyer
Received approved swatch
Approved recipe

41
↓
Fabric unload
M/C Description of Dyeing Section:
M/C No. Brand Origin Capacity Temp. Range
2 Fongs China 25 kg Up to 1400
C
3 Alkan China 1000kg Up to 1000
C
4 Atmospheric China 200kg Up to 1000
C
5 Atmospheric China 400kg Up to 1000
C
6 Atmospheric China 400 kg Up to 1000
C
7 Atmospheric China 600 kg Up to 1000
C
8 AH CHO1 Hongkong 500 kg Up to 1400
C
C
C
11 Bangla 10 kg Up to 950
C
12 Bangla 8 kg Up to 950
C
Dye & chemical used in Crystal Composite Ltd.:
Aids Chemicals Name
General Chemicals
Soda Ash
Caustic

42
H2O2
Hydrose
Antifoam-39
Gluber Salt (anhydrous)
Acid
H2S04
Acetic Acid
Formic Acid
Oxalic Acid
Cationic Softener
Alcamine CWS
Sun Soflon-21
Non-ionic (White)
Sun Soflon-A300
Sup amine FPs
Anti-crease
Texport GL-500
Texport D-900
Ciba Fluid C
Wetting Agent
Invading DA
Sun Morl CK-1
Sandoclean PCLF
Fixing
Neofix R-250(FDR)
Cibatex ECO
Buffer
Ammonium Sulphide
Cibatex AB-45

43
Soaping Agent
Alcosper AD
Lipotol PS-60
Sadopur RSK
Sequestering
Invatex CS
Neocrystal BGS
Sirrix 2UD
Leveling
Cibacel BDC
Neocrystal 200B
Drimagin E2R
Lyoprint RG
Setamal BL
Enzyme
Bio-Polish EC
Bio-Polish AL
Tinozyme 44L
Stabilizer
Stabilizer Sifa
NeoratePH-100
Brightener
Siba White
Uvitex BHV
Uvitex BBT
Naka white

44
Dyeing process with recipe:
Light Color Process (100% Cotton)
Processes with Respective Chemicals:
A) Machine Wash:
Hydrose (2g/l)+Caustic(2g/l)+Foaming Agent(.5 g/l)
Machine Washed
A. Acid (.7 g/l)
M/C Neutralized
Fabric Type Single Jersey Lycra
Color Rose
Fabric Weight 990
Material : Liquor 1:10
Water 10000 Lt.
30min at 90O
C
20min at 70O
C

45
B) Demineralization:
Detergent (1 g/l)
Sequestering Agent (.5 g/l)
Anti-creasing Agent (.5 g/l)
C) Scouring & Bleaching:
Detergent (1 g/l)
Sequestering Agent (.5 g/l)
Stabilizer (.8 g/l)
Caustic (3 g/l)
H2O2 (3 g/l)
D) Neutralization (Scouring & Bleaching):
H2O2 Killer (.8 g/l)
A. Acid (1 g/l)
E) Enzyme Wash:
A. Acid (1 g/l)
Enzyme (1%)
20min at 80O
C
60min at 98O
C
20min at 80O
C
55min at 50O
C, PH
=4.5

46
F) Dyeing:
Leveling Agent (1 g/l)
A. Acid ( .2 g/l)
Dyes (According to Shade %)
G. Salt (According to Shade %)
Soda Ash (According to Shade %)
G) Neutralization (Dyeing):
A. Acid (1 g/l)
H) Soaping:
Soaping Agent (.5 g/l)
I) Fixing & Softening:
Fixing Agent (.5 g/l)
A. Acid (.5 g/l)
Softener (1.5 g/l)
60min at 60O
C,
10min at 40-50O
C,
20min at 70-80O
C,
15min at 40O
C,

47
Bath Drain
Chapter – 04
Dyeing Finishing
20min at 40O
C,

48
FINISHING SECTION
Organogram of Finishing Section:
Deputy Manager
Assistant Manager
Senior Production Officer
In charge
Assistant In charge
Senior Supervisor
Senior Operator
Assistant Supervisor
Supervisor
Assistant Production Officer
Production Officer
Operator
Manager

49
Finishing:
Textile finishing, in a restricted sense, is the term used for a series of processes to which all
bleached, dyed, printed and certain grey fabrics are subjected before they are put on the
market. In fact, finishing includes the final treatment of every kind of fabric made from every
kind of fiber. After dyeing of knit fabric it's required to finish. During dyeing all knit fabrics
are dyed in tubular form. According to buyer's requirement knit fabrics are finished in open
form or tubular form.
Flow Chart of Finishing (Tube Fabric):
Squeezing
↓
Drying
↓
Compacting &
Inspection
↓
Folding & Packing
↓
Bailing
↓
Delivery
Types of finishing:
1) Chemical finishing:
Turning ( If required )

50
• Chemical reaction of auxiliaries with fibers.
• Application of the handle modifying products / additives.
2) Mechanical finishing:
• Mechanical treatment with machines.
Objects:
• Improving the appearance - Luster, whiteness, etc.
• Improving the feel, which depends on the handle of the mater GMS and its softness,
suppleness, fullness etc. .
• Wearing qualities, non - soiling, anti-crease, anti-shrink, comfort, etc.
• GMS properties required for particular uses - water - proofing, flame -proofing, etc.
• Covering of the faults in the original cloth.
• Increasing the weight of the cloth.
Machine description of finishing section:
Sl.
No
Machinery No. of
machine
Brand Origin
1 Corino squeezer 02 Corino Italy
2 Tensionless dryer 01 Dongnam Korea
3 Hand turning m/c 02
4 Tube Compactor 01 Tubetex USA
5 GSM Cutter 01

52
Organogram of Garments Section:
General Manager
Assistant General
Manager
Cutting
Production
manager
Deputy
Production
Manager
Sewing
Finishing-3
Deputy
Production
Manager
Floor - C Floor - DFloor - B Floor - EFloor - A
Deputy
Production
Manager
Deputy
Production
Manager
Deputy
Production
Manager
Production
Officer
Production
Officer
Finishing
Finishing-1 Finishing-2
Cutting - 3Cutting - 2Cutting - 1
Production
Officer
Production
Officer
Asst. Production
Officer
Production
Officer
Production
In charge
Production
Officer

53
SAMPLING
Sample making process Flow Chart:
Order Shit
pattern
Cutting
Print/Embroidery
Sewing
Finishing
Modular Production System:
In ‘Modular production system’ sewing operators are work as a team. Neither they sew
complete garment nor do they sew only single operation. Multi skilled operators form a group
and each of the team members do multiple operations. In modular system, operators help
each other to finish the garment quickly and team is fully responsible for quality and
production. In modular, always team performance is measured instead of individual operator
performance. This system is very successful where quick response is needed.

54
Different Types of Sample with definition:
Development Sample: Which sample make by available fabric & accessories and send to
buyer to collect order from the buyer that is called development sample.
Fit sample: Medium or large size have to send buyer for checking fits of dummy that is
called fit sample.
Pr-production sample (PP Sample): which sample make by actual fabric & accessories and
send to buyer for final approval to start production.
Lab test: Which sample make by actual fabric & accessories and send to local laboratory
(Buyer Nominated) to check fabric structure such as-GSM, Color fastness, Rubbing,
Shrinkage, printing,& embroidery.
Size set sample: send to local buying house all size sample made by according to order, style
& color& get them approved from buying house.
Counter sample: To reserve with pattern for future order from buyer that is called counter
sample.
Production sample: First production garment will be send buyer for buyer satisfaction.
Shipment sample: according to the buyer requirement like accessories, ploy bag, tag etc is
been made and kept ready to ship the before dispatched.

55
GARMENTS PATTERN
Pattern:
An ornamental design or decorative element is in a fabric. Pattern may be produced either by
the construction of the fabric or applying designs, by other means. On the other words, it is a
hard paper which is made by following all specification of each and individual components.
Steps of pattern making:
Patterns are made in two steps-
1. Block pattern or basic block
2. Working or garments pattern
Block pattern:
Block pattern or basic block indicates the original pattern. Block Pattern is made based on the
specific and standard body measurement without any design or style. It is produced according
to exact dimension of body for different age group and gender.
Block pattern making methods:
Flat method: In this method, different parts of garments, specially major parts are made by
technical drawing. In the technical drawing, proportion of different parts of a garment is
considered. This pattern can be made by both manual and computerized method.
Modeling: It is primary and first method and widely used in garment industry. Block is made
with standard body measurement of mannequin. This block is called toile. Toile is worn on
the mannequin and adjusted the pattern necessarily. Then Toile is worn out from the body
and individual parts of Toile are drawn on hard paper.
Type of Software use in Pattern & marker making:
1. Gmini .
2. Garber.
3. Optix .

56
Computerized pattern making:
At most large manufacturers, patterns are made on a computer with computer aided design
(CAD) systems, the pattern maker manipulating small graphic patterns on the computer
screen with a hand-held control device. Geometry drives can make an infinite number of
changes to the shapes and sizes the pattern including creating new design lines or adding
pleats, fullness, and seam allowances .To allow pattern makers to make patterns manually on
a computer, another system has been developed allowing the pattern maker to work life size
on a sensitized table with traditional tools and stylis that is attached to the table and the
computer.
The stylis picks up the lines drawn on the table and shows them on the screen. Changes can
also be made directly on the screen. In both cases, patterns are immediately available for
other operations such as grading and marker making .The essential features of this technology
are pattern design and pattern generation systems.
Pattern design system the pattern maker inputs to the system all the block patterns in current
use and with the aid of the computer can construct garment patterns from them.Pattern
generation system when the pattern components for the top cloth have been developed on the
computer via pattern design system. The pattern generation programmer automatically
generates the pattern for auxiliary components such as linings and foibles.

57
MARKER MAKING
Introduction:
It is a process of cutting arrangement during large quantity of garments production. During
marker making, pattern of garment parts drawn on a big paper considering fabric width,
garments size ration, fabric fault and cutting table width, length etc. It is mentionable that
bulk quantities of garment cannot be cut without marker and marker efficiency is depending
on what already explained.
Types of marker: There are four kinds of marker such as:
a. Shading marker,
b. Non shading marker,
c. Group marker,
d. one /two way marker.
Preparations of Marker Making:
Before the marker making, some preparatory processes would be followed. In Divine
Textiles Limited these processes are followed strictly:
 Marking Grain Line: Before marker making, the grain line of pattern and fabric
must be marked.
 Fabric Measurement: Before marker planning, the fabric must be measured
carefully. Because, marker width is relevant to the minimum fabric width.
 Fabric Faults: Fabric faults would be also under consideration. In a fabric roll,
where any faults found, that points must be avoided for quality production and to
least the fabric wastage.
 Cutting Table: Marker planner should consider the cutting table length before
making marker. Marker length must be less than the cutting table length.
There are two methods usually used for marker making in apparel industry.
1. Manual method.
2. Computerized method.

58
Manual method:
This is the oldest, traditional and typically used method for marker making in garments
industry. In this processes all pattern pieces made by pattern maker manually and after that
fabric need to spread on cutting table and set up all pattern pieces directly onto the fabric
layer. Then mark by chalk, pencil or pen. Production cost and fabric lose more than
computerized method but output is nothing than expectation. This process needs more time,
practice and experience but efficiency and accuracy is not satisfactory.
Figure: Manual method
Computerized method:
Generally this process marker has to be drawn on a marker paper. All the desired pattern
pieces amalgamate by computer and print out through a thin marker paper. Then the marker
paper placed on fabric layer and used for fabric cutting. During marker making, fabric length
and width, cutting table size must be taken under consideration to minimize the wastage.
Computerized Marker paper directly set up on fabric layer. Fabric need to cut
according to marking.
Figure: Computerized method

59
The merits and demerits of computerized method are given bellow comparing with the
manual method.
Advantages:
1. To accurate for sharp corners & circular patterns with notch.
2. Diminish wastage of fabric.
3. Low production cost.
4. Low labor cost.
5. Less time consumption.
6. Marker can be prepared quickly than manual method.
7. Marker can be kept long time in computerized system with high security.
8. Neat and clean working environment than manual method.
9. Though Initial investment is high but long time rate of return.
10. More appropriate for huge range production than the manual method.
11. Marker effectiveness and accuracy is higher than manual.
12. If required, marker could be print out and can send the marker to buyer along with the
sample for their review.
13. Grading of the pattern could be done automatically.
Figure: Computerized Marker
Disadvantages:
1. More skilled efficient operator is needed than manual.
2. Primary investment is higher than manual.
3. Need much money and technical support for maintenance.

60
FABRIC SPREADING
Spreading:
Spreading means the smooth laying out of the fabric in superimposed layers of specific
length. The cutting marker paper is laid in the top of the fabric layers. The number of the lay
depends on the thickness of the fabric and the height of the knife.
Type of spreading:
1. Flat spreading
2. Stepped spreading
Objects:
 To place the number of plies of fabric to the length of the marker plan correctly
aligned as to length and width and without tension.
 To cut garments in bulk and saving in fabric through the use of multi garment marker
plans and the saving in cutting time per garment that result from cutting many plies at
a time.
Methods of fabric spreading:
1. Manual method
i. By hand
ii. By hook
iii. Spreading truck with the help of operator
2. Mechanical method
i. Semi-automatic
ii. Full automatic
By hand: Fabric roll is spreaded on the table by two or three laborers according to the length
and width of marker. This spreading process a little slow and not so much finished and
quality full.

61
Semi-automatic: Spreading machine is run on the rails which are placed at two side of fabric
spreading table surface and operated by motor. Spreading machine is run from one side to the
other side of table by using electrical & mechanical motion and fabric is spreaded to make
lay.
Figure: Semi-automatic spreading machine (kuris)
Advantages of semi-automatic spreading:
 The maximum fabric width which can be handled is normally 2m although extra wide
machines are capable of handling up to 3m.
 Auto ply cutting device
 Auto ply counting arrangements
 Auto fabric tensioning device
 Auto fabric leveling device
 Fabric fault detector
 Maximum weight of the fabric can be 80kg to 675kg
 Maximum height of the spread is 25cm
 Auto loading & unloading device

62
Disadvantages of semi-automatic spreading:
 More time required
 High labor cost
 It can’t be possible to make desire spreading technique by this machine
 There is no sensor in the spreading head
 Any kind of fabric can’t be spreaded
Full automatic: This is the improvement of semi-automatic machine. There are so many
advantages of this machine to make fabric lay because this machine is operated by controlling
with the help of robot and micro processor.
Requirements of Spreading Process:
1. Alignment of plies in both length and width direction- length and width of fabric
must be at least equal to marker length and width.
2. Elimination of fabric defects/flaws- any faults identified on the incoming fabrics
will be tagged and will be avoided.
3. Correct ply direction (especially for asymmetrically printed fabrics)- all faces up,
all faces down, face to face etc.
4. Correct ply tension- ply tension must be uniform and as much less as possible.
5. Avoidance of distortion in the spread during cutting- polythene sheets are used
under the bottom ply to resist friction of the bottom ply with the base plate of the
knife.
6. Fabrics must be flat and free from any crinkle & crease- these cause defect in
garments due to variation in dimension.
7. Checks and stripes should be matched.

63
FABRIC CUTTING
Organogram of cutting section:
Supper-vice
Process Sequence in Cutting Room:
Marker Making
↓
Fabric Spreading
↓
Placing Marker Paper on to the Lay
↓
Fabric Cutting
↓
Numbering
↓
100% checking & Parts Replacing if needed.
↓
Shorting & Bundling
↓
Sewing/Assembling
Cutting manager
Cutting officer
In-charge

64
Fabric Relaxation: When the fabric comes from the dyeing and finishing, the fabric remains
a slightly hot. In dryer, stenter and compactor heat is applied on fabric. So moisture is
removed from the fabric and it is not in actual condition. But if we keep the fabric in normal
temperature and pressure for a certain time, the fabric absorbs moisture from the atmosphere
and regains its original nature. This process is called fabric relaxation.
Relaxation Period: Fabric relaxation is performed for a certain period. This time is varied
from fabric to fabric. But the minimum time of relaxation is twelve (12) hours. This time also
may vary according to the buyer’s recommendation.
Cutting: The definition of cutting is very complex. In garments industries fabric is cut from
lay and spreading with accuracy and properly which is termed as fabric cutting. Marker
outline is used to cut the fabric cutting.
Requirements of the Cutting Process:
1. Precision of cut- It depends on:
 Methods of cutting employed.
 Marker planning- distance between two pattern pieces.
 Marker marking- correct marking by pen/pencil.
 Condition of cutting equipment- machine, blade etc.
 Skill and motivation of the operator.
2. Clean edge- Free from fraying.
3. Infused edge- High temperature produced during cutting can fuse fabric edges by melting
or burning. Infused edges can be ensured by taking the following measures:
 Well sharpened blade.
 Use of anti-fusion (heat absorbent) paper.
 Spraying silicon lubricants on the blade.
 Less cutting speed.
 Reducing the height of the lay.
4. Support of the lay- using a polyethylene sheet or nylon bristle under the bottom ply
5. Consistent cutting- all plies should be of same dimension.

65
Methods of fabric cutting:
1. Manual
o Hand Operated Scissor
2. Manually operated power knife
o Straight knife of Cutting
o Round Knife Cutting
o Band Knife Cutting
o Die Cutting
o Notcher
o Drill
3. Computerized
o Knife
o Laser
o Water Jet
o Air jet
o Plasma Torch
Features of Hand Scissors:
 It is the first & oldest machine for fabric cutting.
 Very Easy to operate.
 Manual grinding is required.
 This is used for cutting one or two plies of fabric.
 Good for fancy cutting.
 Most of the fabrics can be cut by scissor.
 Most cheep machine.
 Easy to handle and transfer.
 Can be cut the fabric accurately by proper Care.
 Most suitable for Tailoring & Household purpose.
 It needs more time to cut the fabric & for this contains high cost.

66
Figure: Hand operated scissor
Features of Straight Knife:
 The main parts of this machine are straight knife, electric motor, handle, grinder, base
plate, stand/ knife holder, lubricating unit, wheel etc.
 Could be used to cut higher depth of fabric.
 Knife height is 10 cm to 33 cm.
 Knife stroke is 2.5 cm to 4.5 cm.
 Motor r.p.m. is 3000 to 4000.
 Auto grinder is used.
 Auto lubricating unit works for this machine.
 Different types of knife edge are used for cutting different objects. Such as, straight
edge, wave edge, sew edge & serrated edge.
 A Handle for the cutter to direct the Knife.
 Knife guard is attached to the front of the knife.
 Sharp & heavy corners can be cut.
 Maximum 70% of knife height is used for fabric lay.
 Wheels are under the base plate to move the machine smoothly.
 Machine weight is around 12-15 kg.
 Knife cut the fabric very fast due to high speed of motor. That increases the risk of
fabric damage.

67
Figure: Straight knife cutting machine
Advantages of Straight Knife:
 A large number of fabric lays can be cut by the machine due to high length of knife &
r.p.m. of the motor. So, productivity is high.
 Automatic grinding.
 Automatically lubrication.
 Comparatively cheep.
 Can be moved easily by wheel.
 Suitable for straight line & curve line.
 Can be cut high curve line than round knife.
 Fabric can be cut from any angle.
Disadvantages of Straight Knife:
 High speed of the machine causes high risk of damage.
 Faulty knife could damage fabric layer.
 Motor weight creates knife deflection which may be creates faulty pieces.
 Risk is high for physical damage of operator.
 Knife required to replace.

68
Features of computer control knife cutting:
 This method provides the most accurate possible cutting at high speed.
 Marker is not necessary to cut fabric.
 Cutting knife is oval shapped, very hard.
 This machine is a cam system and work through CAD system.
Figure: Computer controlled cutting machine
Advantages of computer controlled knife cutting:
 Very fast fabric cutting;
 Very accurate cutting;
 Cutting speed could be varied;
 Cutting knife could be rotated and moved at any angle;
 Suitable for large scale production;
 Can be connected with computerized marker making;
 Fabric is compressed by vacuum facilitates cutting;
 Cutting defect is negligible;
 No possibility of blade deflection;
 Blade sharpening is attached;
 Possibility of accident is lower;
 No need of marker;
 Lower labor cost;
 6 to 8 times faster cutting.

69
Disadvantages of computer controlled knife cutting:
 Initial investment cost is very high;
 Maintenance cost is also very high;
 Skilled operator is needed.
Excess cutting Percentage: 5%
Cutting fault: Short Quantity
Fabric Consumption for Knitted T-shirt:
Suppose,
Wastage (Cutting and Sewing- 10%, 15% etc.)
Length = 70 cm
½ Chest = 60 cm/dia
Sleeve length = 25 cm
Arm hole width = 40 cm
GSM = 145
= [( Back length + Sleeve length) × ½ Chest ×2×GSM×12] / 107
= [{(70 + 5) + (25 + 5)} × 60 ×2×145×12] / 107
= 2.28 kg + 7 %
= 2.28 kg + 0.159
= 2.439 kg/doz [Neck and sleeve are made rib so add 0.10]
Fabric consumption in kg =

70
SEWING SECTION
Sewing:
Joining the fabric by the use of needle & thread is called sewing. Sewing section is the
biggest section in a garment industry. It is a universal & widely used method of joining
fabric. The main purpose of sewing is to produce seam.
Sewing machines types: According to the operating system, there are two types of sewing
machine available.
1. Hand Operated Sewing Machine- This is the simplest form of sewing machine
which is operated by hand. A detachable handle provided to the flywheel is used to
operate the machine. This machine is generally suitable for domestic purpose because
it does not help in speeding up the work.
2. Electrically operated Sewing Machine- This is the fastest sewing machine. One
needs practice to handle it. In an electric machine the balance wheel comes to motion
by a belt, which is attached to an electric motor.
List of Sewing Machine: List of sewing machine is given below –
1. Lock stitch/Plain/Regular sewing machine
2. Chain stitch machine
3. Double chain stitch machine
4. Single Needle Lockstitch
5. Double/Two Needle Lock Stitch
6. Over lock
7. Safety stitch overlock machine
8. Flat lock machine
9. Button Hole Sewing Machine
10. Blind Stitch Sewing Machine
11. Automatic Blind Stitch Sewing Machine
12. Feed of the arm Machine
13. Fabric Rags Tearing Machine
14. Multi Needle Chain Stitch

71
15. Button Attaching Machine
16. Digital Sewing Machne
17. Bar Tack Sewing Machine
Production System:
Progressive Bundle System:
In Progressive bundle system, each operator does different operations of a garment. All
sewing machines needed to make the garment are laid in a line. Cut parts are fed in a bundle
form. When an operator receives a bundle of cut components, she opens the bundle and does
her operation (job) for all pieces of the bundle. After completing her job she moves the
bundle to the next operator who is doing next operation. Numbers of people are involved in
sewing a single garment. Major benefits of this system are – as operators do only single or
limited operation, their performances increases. Secondly, product consistency can be
maintained garment to garment. Most of the export oriented garment manufacturers adopted
progressive bundle system as a main production system.
Section Production System:
This system is similar to the progressive bundle system. But the difference is that, instead of
one line, work is divided into sections. Machines of similar operations are clubbed together
instead of spreading over in all lines. For example, when a man’s formal shirt is being made
in a section layout – collars, cuffs and sleeves are in the preparatory sections and then send to
the assembly section. This system is popular to improve line balancing and utilization of
human resources.

72
Buyer: J&J
ITEM: Basic V Neck
Line No: 6
Process Machine Oparator
R.SHLD JOIN OVER LOCK 01
NK.PIPING FLAT LOCK 01
NK INNER TUCK PLAIN 01
L.SHLD JOIN OVER LOCK 01
V TUCK PLAIN 01
SIZE LEVELING
ATTATCH
PLAIN 01
NK.OUTTER TUCK PLAIN 01
SLEVE JOIN OVER LOCK 03
SIDE SEAM OVER LOCK 03
SLEVE HEM FLAT LOCK 02
BOTTOM HEM FLAT LOCK 02

73
Garment manufacturing process flow chart (major processes):

74
Parts of a Sewing Machine & their function:
1. Spool pin: It is fitted on top of the arm to hold the reel.
2. Thread guide: It holds the thread in position from the spool to the needle.
3. Tension disc: The two concave discs put together with the convex sides facing each
other. The thread passes between the two. The tension of the thread is adjusted by a
spring and nut which increases or decreases pressure
4. Take up lever: It is a lever fitted to the body of the arm. Its up and down motion
feeds the thread to the needle and tightens the loop formed by the shuttle.
5. Needle bar: This is a steel rod to hold the needle at one end with the help of a clamp.
Its main function is to give motion to the needle.
6. Bobbin case: This moves into position to catch the top thread and form the stitch as
the needle is lowered into the bobbin chamber.
7. Presser foot: It is fixed to the presser bar to hold the cloth firmly in position when
lowered.
8. Presser foot lifter: A lever attached to the presser bar for raising and lowering the
presser foot.
9. Stitch regulator: This controls the length of the stitch.
10. Bobbin winder: A simple mechanism used for winding thread on the bobbin.
11. Fly Wheel: When this is made to revolve, it works the mechanism of the motion
12. Clutch or Thumb Screw: This is in the center of the fly wheel and it engages and
disengages the stitching mechanism.
Figure: Parts of sewing machine

75
13. Slide Plate: A rectangular plate, which facilitates the removal of the bobbin case
without lifting the machine.
14. Needle Plate or Throat Plate: A semi-circular disc with a hole to allow the needle to
pass through it.
15. Feed dog: This consists of a set of teeth fitted below the needle plate. It helps to move
the cloth forward while sewing.
16. Face plate: A cover which on removal gives access to the oiling points on the needle
bar, presser bar and take-up lever.
17. Spool pin for bobbin winding: Spool of thread is placed on this at the time of bobbin
winding.

76
Sewing machine Name & Specification:
Single needle Lockstitch Machine:
Specifications Name Specifications Value
Product Category Sewing
Machine Category Lock Stitch Machine
Product Name Lock Stitch Machine
Product Model According to Manufacturer
Product Class New
Origin China/India/Others
Brand/ Manufacturer Name of Manufacturer
Agent in Bangladesh No/Yes
Power 380v
Temperature Normal
Certification SGS/Others
Production Capacity NA
Figure: Lockstitch Machine

77
Double needle Lockstitch Machine:
Machine Category Double needle sewing
Product Name Double Needle Sewing Machine
Product Model According to manufacturer
Product Class New
Brand/ Manufacturer According to manufacturer
Power 380v
Temperature Normal
Group Lock stitch
Stitch per minute 4000-4500
Needle name DP X 5
Thread per inch 5”
No of needle 2
No of Bobbin 2
Seam class Super imposed
Figure: Lockstitch Machine

78
Juki over-lock sewing machine:
Figure: Juki over-lock sewing machine
Machine Specifications:
Stitch Type Safety Stitching
Stitch Style 516
Max. Sewing Speed 7,000 Stitches per Minute
Stitch Length 1.5~4mm
Overedging width (mm) 3.2, 4.0, 4.8, 6.4
Differential Ratio for Gathering 1:2 (max. 1:4)
Differential Ratio for Stretching 1:0.7 (max. 1:0.6)
Needle Bar Stroke 24.5mm
Inclination Angle of the Needle 20°
Needle DCx27 (excluding some subclass model)
Max. Lift of the Presser Foot 7mm (excluding some subclass model)
Max. Presser Foot Pressure 63.7N (6.5kgf)
Weight of Machine Head 28kg
Lubrication Automatic
Lubricating Oil Juki Machine Oil 18 (equivalent to ISO VG18)

79
Flat bed Sewing Machine:
Figure: Flatbed sewing machine
Brand : JUKI
Model : MFD 47605U
Type : Flat or Cylinder bed
Group : Chain stitch
Needle no : 3
Needle name: UY-128
Needle size: 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 21
SPM : 2500-6000
TPI : 25-35
Description Should be error free.

80
Button Hole Machine:
Figure: Button Hole Machine
Machine Category Sewing Machine
Product Name Button Hole sewing machine
Product Model According to manufacturer
Product Class New
Brand/ Manufacturer Brother sewing machine
Power 380v
Temperature Normal
Group Lock stitch or chain stitch
Stitch per minute 1500
Needle size 9,11,14,16,18,20,21
Thread per inch 4-5”
Stitch class 300/100
No of Bobbin 1
No of needle 1

81
Button Attaching Machine:
Figure: Button attaching machine
Product Category Sewing Machine
Machine Category Button stitching Machine
Product Name Button Attaching
Product Model According to
ManufacturerProduct Class New
Brand/ Manufacturer Juki
Power 380v
Temperature Normal
Group Lock stitch
Stitch per minute 1200-1500
Needle size 9,11,14,18,21
Thread per inch Per pressure 54

82
Bar Tack Machine:
Figure: Bar Tack Machine
 Beautiful sewing and easy to adjust sewing functions
 Stable sewing quality with Digital Tension
 Overwhelmingly superior productivity with the world's fastest cycle time
 High energy saving
Specifications:
Usage Max. sewing
area
Max. sewing
speed
Stitch length Max. No. of
stitches
Foundation
garments
Knitted
materials
Medium
materials
Heavy
materials
40x30mm 3,200sti/min 0.05-12.7mm 5,000stitches/pattern

83
Sewing problems causes and remedies:
1) Slipped stitch: Missing of interloping or interlacing between top and bottom threads.
Causes:
 Looper or hook and needle are not properly placed.
 Irregular thread tension.
 Needle deflection.
 Needle threads loop size too small.
Remedies:
 Proper placement of needle and looper or hook.
 Accurate tension maintaining.
 Needle can be changed.
2) Staggered stitch: Stitch is not parallel produced by needle.
Causes:
 Needle deflection.
 Due to wrong needle point.
 Defected motion of feed dog.
 Wrong adjustment of needle and thread size.
Remedies:
 Increase needle size.
 Needle size and thread size to be altered.
 Motion of feed dog to be adjusted.
3) Unbalance Stitch: Improper interlacement of threads especially in lock stitch machine.
Causes:
 Wrong tension of sewing thread.
 Used wrong thread path.
 Snagging of needle with bobbing case.

84
Remedies:
 Setting of proper tension to the sewing threads.
 Use of right thread path.
 Bobbin case to be smooth.
4) Variable stitch density: Number of stitch per unit length is not equal.
Causes:
 Improper unwinding of thread from package during sewing.
 Twisting of needle thread in the bottom of thread package.
 Snarling of thread before tension disk.
 Use of broken check spring.
 Fraying of thread in the needle.
Remedies:
 The position of thread guide must be 2.5 times higher than the position of thread
package.
 Foam pad must be used to the bottom of thread package.
 Winding of more threads in the thread guide.
 Check spring need to be changed.
 Finer threads must be used or to be used heavy needle.
5) Frequent thread breakage: Thread breaking frequently during sewing.
Causes:
 More tension to the bobbin threads or more rotating of bobbin.
 Wrong fitting of bobbin case.
Remedies:
 Proper winding of threads on to the bobbin.
 The tension must be adjusted to the bobbin threads.
 Checking out the damaging case.

85
6) Seam puckers:
Causes:
 Variable or uneven stretch on fabric plies.
 Fabric dimensional instability.
 Extension of sewing thread.
 Sewing threads shrinkage.
 Fabric construction
 Mismatched patterns.
Remedies:
 Proper feed mechanism should be used with equal ply stretch.
 Fabric shrinkage property must be almost equal.
 Using less tension to the thread.
 Fabric and sewing thread shrinkage% should be equal.
 By reducing stitch density for heavy fabric.
 Pattern should be matched properly.
7) Damage of fabrics on seam line: Fabrics or threads are damaged along the seam line
during sewing.
Causes:
 Mechanical damage.
 Needle heating damage.
Remedies:
 By using perfect size and shape of needle and needle point.
 By testing sew ability before sewing fabrics.
 By flowing cool air on the needle during sewing.
 By using lubricant to the needle and fabrics to the sewing line.

86
Various defects in garments:
1. Broken buttons
2. Broken snaps
3. Broken stitching
4. Defective snaps
5. Different shades within the same garment
6. Dropped stitches
7. Exposed notches
8. Exposed raw edges
9. Fabric defects
10. Inoperative zipper
11. Loose / hanging sewing threads
12. Misaligned buttons and holes
13. Missing buttons
14. Needle cuts / chews
15. Open seams
16. Pulled / loose yarn
17. Stain
18. Unfinished buttonhole
19. Zipper too short

88
Finishing:
Garment finishing is very important because buyers satisfaction depends on it. Garments
finishing means, mainly applies of pressing, folding & packing of garments.
Pressing:
Pressing is a finishing process done by a cloth to heat and pressure with or without steam to
remove creases and to impart a flat appearance to the cloth or garments. In garment industries
pressing is also called ironing. After completing pressing the garments have to be folded.
Thread Sucker machine:
Figure: Thread Sucker machine
Features: UZ-12N
 Effectively remove all loose threads and waste particles on the cloths.
 Keep all loose threads in the filter & easy to clean the filter.
 Facilitate the packing job.
 Reduce manpower and save time.
 Automatic shut off when cloth slip into the machine.
 Approximate working capacity 650 pcs/hour.
Specification:
Power Supply 380V./3Ph./50-60Hz.
Motor 3 Hp.
Input size 15x53x120 cm.
Packing size 85x160x195 cm.
Net weight 250kgs.

89
Garments ironing temperature: 50 ͦ C
T shirt =100 pec (1 hour)
Polo shirt=90-80 pec (1 hour)
Finishing machine & tools:
 Bodies dummy
 Boiler
 Button attached machine
 Carton staple machine (P.P Brand)
 Compressor
 Final inspection table
 Iron cap
 Measurement tape
 Plastic staple attached
 Scissor
 Snap button attached machine
 Spray gun ( For spot remove)
 Steam iron (For pressing or Ironing)
 Tag gun
 Thread sucker
 Trimmer
 Vacuum table
 Weight scale
Spot removing:
I. Oil spot remove by lifter
II. Dirt spot remove by thinner
III. Color or print spot remove by BTS

90
IE & PRODUCTION PLANNING
Concept of IE:
The garment manufacturing and exporting industry is facing heavy challenges due to various
factors including global competition, production costs increase, less productivity/efficiency,
labor attrition, etc. the basic fact that our country has immense strength in human resources
itself is the motivating aspect to feel for such an analysis. For overcoming those challenges
need industrial engineering knowledge.
Industrial engineers (IEs) are responsible for designing integrated systems of people,
machines, material, energy, and information. Industrial engineers figure out how to do things
better. They engineer processes and systems that improve quality and productivity. They
work to eliminate waste of time, money, materials, energy, and other resources. This is why
more and more companies are hiring industrial engineers and then promoting them into
management positions.
Role of Industrial Engineer in Garment Industry:
Each executive/supervisor has eight areas of responsibility that need to be managed.
1. Safety
2. Line balancing
3. Quality – operation control
4. Training – how to train new employees
5. Operator output – maintains high output and improves abilities of those with low output.
6. Loss control – minimize off-standard loss
7. Waste control – in materials, supplies and machinery
8. Standard conditions – in the workplace, in sewing method, in the machines
Industrial Engineering (IE) = Production ↑Cost ↓ Proper use of all elements ↑ Efficiency ↑
Profit ↑

91
Industrial engineering work process:
All the above processes are discussed in the below table:
SL No. Process Procedure
01 Negotiation with
garments merchandiser
It is the very first work of an industrial engineer. Here,
he should vastly discussed with garments merchandiser
about the in-coming garments product.
02 Garments analysis Confirmed garments product is clearly analyzed here
by industrial engineer. It helps to complete rest of the
processes very easily.
03 Make P.P meeting Here, P.P meeting should be organized if all the
required fabrics, trimmings and accessories are in
housed and take all the pre-cautions for the up-coming
garments production.
04 Production target Production target should set here according to factory
capacity. It helps to respect the shipment date.

92
05 Set machine layout Machine layout is set here according to total processes
needed to complete a garment item.
06 Line setting In this process, actual line setting should be done to
utilize the garment workers properly. If it takes more
time in line setting then garments production will be
decreased.
07 Line balancing To minimize the number of work stations, cycle time,
line balancing is done here. Its a very important process
to achieve desired production target.
08 Continuous production
meeting
Production meeting should be done here at regular
interval. If any problem will arise during garments
production, should take necessary actions to solve that.
09 Collecting production
data
Production data should be collected here for preparing
production report.
10 Preparing production
report
Here, total garments production report has prepared to
analysis about the whole production.
11 Production report
analysis
Garments production report is analyzed here from
different points of view.
12 Report submit to factory
manager
Finally garments production report have to submit into
the factory manager.
What is a production plan?
A production plan is that portion of intermediate-range business plan that manufacturing /
operations department is responsible for developing. The plan states in general terms the total
amount of output that the manufacturing department is responsible to produce for each period
in the planning horizon.
The output is usually expressed in terms of pesos or other units of measurement (e.g. tons,
liters, kgs.) or units of the aggregate product (this refers to the weighted average of all the
products in your company). The production plan is the authorization of your manufacturing
department to produce the items at a rate consistent with company’s overall corporate plan.

93
This production plan needs to be translated into a master production schedule so as to
schedule the items for completion promptly, according to promised delivery dates; to avoid
the overloading or under loading of the production facility; and so that production capacity is
efficiently utilized and low production costs result.
Why is it important to have a carefully developed production plan?
Production planning is one of the planning functions that a firm needs to perform to meet the
needs of its customers. It is a medium-range planning activity that follows long-range
planning in P/OM such as process planning and strategic capacity planning. Firms need to
have an aggregate planning or production planning strategy to ensure that there is sufficient
capacity to meet the demand forecast and to determine the best plan to meet this demand.
A carefully developed production plan will allow company to meet the following objectives:
• Minimize costs / maximize profits
• Maximize customer service
• Minimize inventory investment
• Minimize changes in production rates
• Minimize changes in work-force levels
• Maximize the utilization of plant and equipment
What are the inputs to the production planning process?
To be able to perform the aggregate planning process, the following information should be
available to this production planning team. These data include the following:
• Materials / purchasing Information
• Operations / manufacturing Information
• Engineering / process Designs
• Sales, marketing and distribution Information

94
• Financial and accounting information
• Human resources information
How do address the demand fluctuations?
There are three basic production planning strategies that the company can choose from to
address demand fluctuations. These are the (1) Chase Demand strategy, (2) Level Production
strategy, and the (3) Mixed Strategy.
Strategy Description
Demand Chase
Strategy
Matches the production rate to the order or demand rate through the
hiring and firing of employees as the order rate varies
Level Production
Strategy
Maintains a stable workforce working at a constant production rate
with the shortages and surpluses being absorbed by any of the
following: • Changing the inventory levels • Allow order backlogs
(commit to the customer that you will deliver the product (s) at a
much later date) • Employ marketing strategies (e.g. promotional
activities)
Mixed Strategy The strategies here could include combination of any of the
following: • Having a stable workforce but employ variable work
hours (e.g., increase no. of shifts, flexible work schedules or
overtime) • Subcontracting / outsourcing Changing inventory levels
Costing for knitted T-Shirt:
Example:
Suppose,
The buyer “VF Asia Ltd. ” provided you the following measurement chart of a knitted printed
T-Shirt order by mentioning the order quantity and fabric GSM.
1. Fabric is 100% cotton single jersey, and fabric GSM is 140
2. Order quantity is 15000pc.

95
Then calculate the garments costing (on FOB) per pcs for the order.
Elements Actual Allowance Measurement with Allowance
Body Length 85cm 6cm 91cm
Sleeve Length 50cm 6cm 56cm
1/2 Chest Width 70cm 6cm 76cm
Solution:
Given that,
Fabric GSM- 140,
Body length with allowance- 91cm
Sleeve length with allowance – 56cm
½ Chest widths with allowance – 76cm
Let,
Yarn Price per kg- $4.00
Knitting and Washing Cost per kg- $1.20
Dyeing Cost per kg- $2.00
Printing Cost per dozen- $5.00
Accessories Cost per dozen- $2.00
Now, we have to calculate the fabric consumption for the above order.
Fabric Consumption:
All the measurements are applied in the following formula-
Fabric consumption per dozen, (All measurement in cm),

96
= 3.754 + 10% (in kg)
= 4.13kg per dozen.
So, grey fabrics needed per dozen garments are 4.13kg.
As yarn price per kg is $4.00 then, grey fabric cost per dozen is (4.13kg × $4.00) = $16.52
After, adding all the fabric processing cost (Knitting+ Washing Cost, Dyeing Cost) with grey
fabrics cost, actual fabric cost will be determined.
So,
Actual fabric cost = Total Grey fabric cost + {{(knitting cost + washing cost) + dyeing cost}
× 4.13kg] per dozen
= $16.52 + {($1.20 + $2.00) ×4.13} per dozen
= $29.74 per dozen.
So, actual fabric cost per dozen is………. $29.74 ………………………… (A)
Printing Cost per dozen……………………… $5.00 ………………….…. (B)
Accessories Cost per dozen……………….…$ 2.00 ……………….……… (C)
Cost of making (CM)……………………………. $5.00 …………………… (D)
Commercial cost …………………………………. $0.50 …………………. (E)
Others cost …………………………………………. $0.30 ………………… (F)
Now, by adding A, B, C, D, E and F, we will get the total FOB cost of the garments per
dozen.
Total FOB cost per dozen = (A +B + C + D+ E + F)
= $ (29.74 + 5.00 + 2.00 + 5.00 + 0.50 + 0.30)
= $42.54 per dozen.
So, total FOB cost per dozen stands at-$42.54
In buying house costing, profit% for the buying house (here-15%) should be added with total
FOB cost per dozen.

97
So,
Total FOB cost per dozen with profit% stands at ($42.54 + 15%) = $48.92
Now, total FOB cost per pcs is ($48.92 / 12) = $4.08
So, in the view of buying house costing (FOB) per pcs garment is $4.08
Some formula for Industrial engineering:
1. Line Labor Productivity:
2. Line Machine Productivity:
3. Line Efficiency:
4. Theoretical Manpower:
5. Target:
6. Standard Pitch Time
(S.P.T) = Basic Pitch Time (B.P.T) + Allowances (%)
7. GSD
GSD = (Man power * Work hour) / Target
8. SMV
SMV = Basic time + (Basic time * Allowance)
9. Basic time
Basic time = Observed time * Rating

98
10. Observed time
Observed time = Total Cycle time / No of cycle
11. Rating
Rating = (Observed Rating * Standard rating) / Standard rating
12. Earn minute
Earn minute = No of Pc’s (Production) * Garments SMV
13. Available minute
Available minute = Work hour * Manpower
14. Organization Efficiency
Organization Efficiency = (Basic pis time / Bottle neck time) * 100
15. Basic pis time (BPT)
Basic pis time = Total GMT SMV / Total Manpower
16. UCL
UCL = Basic pis time / Organization Efficiency
17. LCL
LCL = 2 * Basic pis time – UCL
18. Capacity
Capacity = 60 / Capacity time in minute
19. Capacity Achievable
Capacity Achievable = Capacity * Balance
20. Daily output
Daily output = Work hour / SMV
21. Factory capacity
Factory capacity = (Work hour / SMV) * Total worker * Working day * Efficiency
22. CPM
CPM = (Total overhead cost of the month / No of SMV earners Work minutes) *Efficiency
23. Required no of operator
Required no of operator = Target daily output / Daily output per operator

99
24. Efficiency
Efficiency = (Earn minute * Available minute) * 100
Operational Bulletin of a T-shirt:

101
CONCLUSION
Two months of industrial attachment at the Crystal Composite Ltd was a part of the B.Sc. in
textile technology course. The eight weeks of the training period were segmented &
scheduled to a systematic routine. I have got the impression that it is one of the most modern
export oriented knit composite factories in Bangladesh. Though it was established only a few
years ago, it has earned very good reputation for its quality products, over many other export
oriented textile mills.
This training gives me actual picture about man, machine, materials, methods and market. I
have earned the direct knowledge about the raw materials, actual running condition of the
machines, working technologies, production follow-ups and the administration.
This mill is a well-planned with enough expansion facilities. The working condition & the
relation between employer & worker is wonderful.
I am enough fortunate to get an opportunity of having a training in this factory. During the
training period I received cordial association and co-operation from the authority & found all
man, machines & materials in appreciable working condition.

102
References:
1. http://www.crystalgroupbd.com/about.html
2. Factory Profile
3. Garments Manufacturing Technology (Book)
4. http://textilelearner.blogspot.in/2013/02/parts-of-circular-knitting-machine-and.html
5. http://textilefashionstudy.com/four-point-systems-for-knit-fabric-quality-measurement/
6. http://garmentstech.com/causes-and-remedies-of-various-knitting-faults/
7. http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/09/garment-production-systems.html
8. http://apparelbrief.wordpress.com/2012/05/16/different-type-of-sample-with-defination/
9. http://www.textileschool.com/articles/627/types-of-pattern-making-in-garment-
manufacturing#sthash.8vKkAzcE.dpuf
10. http://www.goldnfiber.com/2013/01/methods-of-marker-making_19.html
11. http://textilecalculation.blogspot.com/2014/11/some-important-formula-for-
industrial.html
12. http://www.smetoolkit.org/smetoolkit/en/content/en/907/Preparing-Your-Production-Plan

Textile internship report

Empfohlen

Empfohlen

Weitere ähnliche Inhalte

Was ist angesagt?

Was ist angesagt? (20)

Ähnlich wie Textile internship report

Ähnlich wie Textile internship report (20)

Kürzlich hochgeladen

Kürzlich hochgeladen (20)

Textile internship report