fashion merchandising

1. 12th
September 2014
Nimisha Karnani & Sai Nikam
MFM | Semester One
Fashion Merchandising:
Women Western Wear

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Introduction:
According to research report, "Indian Women Wear Market Forecast to 2015", with increasing
personal disposable income and rising number of working women, the Indian women wear market
is witnessing rapid growth from past few years and this trend is expected to continue in future as
well. As per our analysis, the western women wear market in India is anticipated to grow at a CAGR
of around 11% during 2013-2015.
The industry is witnessing several changes as the consumer behaviour, preference and lifestyle of
Indian women is changing. The increasing influence of western culture and rising female working
class are fuelling the robust growth of the women's western wear market. This is the reason why
growth of western wear is more than that of ethnic wear.
.
The share of organized market is still very less as compared to unorganized market, although it is
gradually increasing. With the organized retail industry booming in India and concept of online
retailing is catching pace, expansion strategies adopted by companies will definitely give a new
direction to the women's apparel industry. The share of rural market has also started increasing, as
rural people have started spending more on apparels. The western wear market can be broadly
categorised into denim, t-shirts, shirts and trousers.

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Evolution of the western women’s fashion:
The 20th century ushered in new rules garnering female fashion. With two world wars and the
women’s liberation movement, the most drastic changes in women’s dress were witnessed in this
century. The year 1912 saw a less defined waistline in women’s attire and from 1914 to 1918
hemlines were raised to conserve material for the war effort. Once raised, hems couldn’t be
lowered, and by the end of the First World War women’s clothing drew attention to the body
beneath it. Ankles and calves were exposed and the shorter skirts of flappers became an icon of the
Roaring Twenties.
By the early 1930s, formal wear as well as footwear became more illuminating. Due to the nature
of more revealing ceremonial shoes, grooming and polishing of toenails became a regular part of
hygiene for women. By this time, the covering of women’s hands in public became obsolete as well.
By the 1940s, the US involvement in the Second World War would allow yet another rise of the
hemline. Once again, they could not be lowered once the war was over; therefore the 1950s saw
women’s fashion just below the knee.
Being a volatile time in American social history, '60s women’s fashion were no exception to the rule.
Hemlines were again raised, and swimsuits became even more revealing than in the previous
decade. Dresses were taken above the knee for the first time in Western history, giving women the
freedom to dress as they had never been able to before.
This history of western female dress has been centuries in the making. While the 16th to 19th
centuries did see a great deal of trend in women’s dress, little change was made in the overall form.
The 20th century would change all that; with two World Wars and Women’s Liberation, fashion
made its most drastic changes ever seen.

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Merchandise mix
Dresses Cocktail Dress
Day Dress
Formal Gown
Little Black Dress
Maxi Dress
Mini Dress
Sheath Dress
Shirt Dress
Wedding Dress
Wrap Dress
Coats & Jackets Anorak
Blazers
Boleros
Capes & Ponchos
Denim Jackets
Down & Snow Jackets
Fleece Jackets
Fur Coats
Leather & Suede Jackets
Over Coats
Trench Coats
Tweed Jackets
Varsity Jackets
Vests
One Pieces Jumpsuits & Rompers
Leotards & Unitards
Overalls

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Shirts & Tops Camisoles & Tank Tops
Polo Shirt
Shirts & Blouses
Sports Jerseys
Sweaters & Cardigans
Sweatshirts
T Shirts
Skirts A Line Skirt
Fishtail Skirt
Fit & Flare Skirt
Flare Skirt
Mini Skirt
Pencil Skirt
Pleated Skirt
Tub Skirt
Tulip Skirt
Pants Cargo Pants
Corduroy & Velvet Pants
Dress Pants
Jeans
Khaki & Chino Pants
Leather & Suede Pants
Leggings
Linen Pants
Shorts Bermuda Shorts
Cargo Shorts
Cut off Shorts
Short Shorts

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Latest trend in women’s western wear:
Economic independence of women:
A study on trends in women’s western apparel market in India has pointed out that more and more
women are leaving the comfort of their homes and stepping into the corporate world, the demand
for western wear is increasing. Increasing women in the workforce, and the growing economic
independence of women, the demand for women’s western wear is at an all-time high. This trend
is expected to continue as more women enter into the workforce or aspire to follow the lifestyle of
working women.
Transition from traditional wear to western wear:
A clear trend is being witnessed among working women taking to dresses and western formal
wear in a big way. Similarly, women in metros and mini metros are leaving traditional saris and
salmar kameez and moving towards dresses, formal suits, and business attire. Women in India
increasingly want to dress like their global counterparts. Today, all strata of women from metros
to small towns and across all age groups are freely taking to western wear.
Influence from the west:
Another trend is the changing socio-economic norms and western influence in the society.
Changing socio-economic factors, increasing aspirations and exposure to international fashions
along with the influence of Bollywood, which often dictates what many women would like to wear.
Exposure to styles and trends build the desire, and changing social norms facilitate the conversion
of aspiration to actual action.
Globalization:
Globalization, exposure to international trends through different sources such as social media
websites like: instagram, pinterest, tumblr, facebook, etc, electronic media, growing retail sector
are aiding the segment grow. Latest trends, innovation in style and designs and visual
merchandising are some of the growth drivers for this segment. Increasing fashion consciousness
among women coupled with western influence has helped the segment evolve into a lucrative
market. This opens up a big opportunity for brand play with several international brands stepping
in which has helped in boosting the segment.
Future Outlook
The future of women’s western wear is bright. So far, western wear for women was restricted to
the metros. However, it’s spreading to remote location like villages. Besides western wear brands
are in a crossover mode adding a local touch to their portfolio, many are catching up with emerging
Indo-western trend.

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Price range
The women’s western wear segment of the apparel industry has a wide range of products spread
across various price points. The following points are a broad classification of their price range and
the merchandise they carry:
Budget or mass market
The low end of the apparel spectrum with clothes that retail at relatively low price points. Often
casual wear such as jeans and T-shirts falls into this category. The “mass market” segment received
its name because it serves the “masses” (has a large consumer base). Forever 21 is a perfect
example for this category.
Contemporary
Conforming to modern or current ideas in style, fashion, design, etc. contemporary - More of a
fashion-forward look, than just a specific price point. This classification is often aimed at women in
their '20s and early '30s who are looking for trendy and modern apparel, but at an affordable (at
least compared to designer) price. It represents street wear and trendy fashion conscience
merchandise, at below Bridge pricing. This is possibly one of the fastest growing pricing categories
in the industry. Zara is the best example for this category.
Bridge
A "bridge" between better and designer, this category is often for career separates and dresses in
finer fabrics. Bridge products have the look of designer products but are made from less expensive
fabrics. Examples are Lauren by Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan's DKNY line and Emmanuel Ungaro's
Emmanuel line.
Designer
Designer products cater to the high priced prestige or luxury market. True designer collections
often sell at a rather steep price point (meaning; expensive). The fabrics, construction, detailing
and trimming are usually superior to other ready-to-wear items. Examples of designer clothing are
Gucci, Prada, Versace, Balenciaga, Marc Jacobs and Alexander McQueen.
Haute Couture and Made-to-Measure
Haute Couture is limited to syndicate members producing made to measure pieces. If a fashion
designer is not a syndicate member, they are not technically an Haute Couturier designer. Made-
to-Measure is clothing that is manufactured specifically for one person. It is cut & sewn specifically
for their body dimensions. This is the absolute upper-end of the market. Chanel Couture is an
example of an haute couture label.

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Retailing
The distinct trends in the macroeconomic scenario, the favourable demographic dividend, retail
specific policies, and consumer buying behaviour, have triggered a transformation in the fashion
retail market which is also reflected in the changes undergone by the Indian retail industry. These
take the form of modernization and corporatization of retail businesses, the evolution of alternative
retail landscapes, the customization of product portfolios to address the specific needs of various
consumer segments, the increasing success of private labels, and the growing focus on business
efficiency.
Store-based retailers
Mom & POP store
Represent the small, individually owned and operated retail outlet. In many cases these are family-
run businesses catering to the local community often with a high level of service but relatively small
product selection..
Department stores.
A department store is a large-scale retail unit that carries a wide and in-depth assortment of
merchandise that is classified into section divisions by product type and brand name. While
department stores originated in downtown areas of major cities in the nineteenth century, with the
advent of car travel and suburban flight, they came to be located in regional. Merchandise quality,
pricing, and customer service (sales help, credit card, and delivery) range from average to quite
high. Two types of department store are commonly noted:
Full-line department stores such as Macy's and Marshall Field's carry both hard goods (such as
furniture, housewares, and home electronics) and soft goods (apparel, accessories, and bedding).
Except for Sears, most full-line department stores no longer offer major appliances.
Specialized department stores or limited-line department stores restrict their inventories rather
than carry full lines. For example, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, and Nordstrom focus on
apparel and wearable accessories and may not carry lines such as furniture and home electronics.
Other merchants emphasize jewelry and home furnishings, such as Fortunoff.
Category killers.
Also known as category specialist, category killers combine attributes of both specialty stores and
discount stores because they feature a great breadth of assortment in one classification of
merchandise (e.g., toys, electronics) and low prices. Because of the large volume of merchandise
they require from suppliers, category killers can use their buying power to negotiate for low prices.
Category killers provide consumers a warehouse environment. Few sales people are available for
assistance.

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Specialty stores.
Specialty stores, also called limited-line stores, focus on selling one line of
merchandise (such as jewelry) or serving one particular market (for
example, maternity apparel). Specialty stores offer a narrow but deep
assortment in the chosen category and tailor selection of products to a
defined market segment. Specialty stores also feature a high level of
customer service with knowledgeable sales personnel and customer
service policies and intimate store size and atmosphere. Some specialty
stores target affluent consumers with high price and upscale
merchandise, whereas others target price-conscious consumers with
discount merchandise. Few of the well-known specialty stores are GAP
brands, which includes Gap, Banana Republic, and Old Navy and Limited
brands, which includes The Limited, Henri Bendel, Intimate Brands, Lane
Bryant, Lerner New York, Limited Too, Structure, and Express
Gap store in New York City.
Specialty stores such as the vertically-integrated Gap limit their line to one area of merchandise.
Discount stores.
Discount stores offer customers broad assortments of merchandise, limited services, and low
prices. Discount stores are also referred to full-line discount stores or discount department stores.
For their commonly recognizable huge retail format, discount stores are also referred to as big box
retailers. The biggest discount stores include Wal-Mart, Target and Kmart.
Due to intense competition from category killers, the trends for discount stores are to create
attractive shopping environments, to provide consumers branded merchandise (such as Levi
Strauss in Wal-Mart) or to develop licensing agreements (for example, Isaac Mizrahi in Target).
Off-price stores.
Off-price stores offer an inconsistent assortment of fashion-oriented and brand-name products at
low prices and limited customer services. The leading off-price retailers are T.J. Maxx and Marshalls
(both owned by TJX), Ross Stores, and Burlington Coat Factory. Most merchandise is purchased
opportunistically from manufactures or from other retailers late in a selling season in exchange for
low prices. This merchandise might be end-of-season excess inventory, unpopular styles and colors,
returned merchandise, or irregulars. Due to this opportunistic buying practice, consumers cannot
expect consistent offerings of merchandise. However, off-price stores appeal to budget and
fashion-conscious consumers.
Outlet stores.
Outlet stores are retailing units owned by manufacturers or by retailers that sell their leftover, low-
quality, discontinued, irregular, out-of-season, or over-stock merchandise at prices less than full
retail prices of their regular stores. Manufacturer-owned outlet stores are frequently referred to as
factory outlets. Even popular designers such as DKNY, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, and Gucci use
outlet stores to dispose of leftover items. However, most outlets also have product made especially
for them—which is not just unwanted merchandise but low-quality product produced specially for
that market.

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Boutiques.
A boutique is a small store that concentrates on a specific and narrow market niche and features
top of-the-line merchandise. "Boutique" is a French term for little shop; the term was first used for
small stores run by Paris couturiers. Boutique retailers include many top designers, such as Donna
Karan, Calvin Klein, and Ralph Lauren. Boutiques offer high-priced, fashion-oriented merchandise
and attract customers who want more sophisticated and individualized products than mass-
produced goods. Boutiques cater to narrow, well-defined customer segments that usually consist
of affluent men and women. Key to a boutique's attraction is its personal one-to-one service. Many
designers are building flagship stores in their home country as well as in foreign markets.
Flea Market:
Flea market is a type of bazaar that rents space to people who want to sell or barter merchandise.
Used goods, low quality items, and high quality items at low prices are commonplace.
Non-store Retail Channels
Non-store retailers utilize their retail mix in environments that are not store-based. The major
appeal of non-store retailers is the convenience of shopping: shopping anytime and anywhere.
Three major types of non-store retailers include catalogue retailers, electronic retailers (e-tailing),
and television home-shopping retailers.
Catalogue retailers.
Catalogue retailers promote products by mailing merchandise directly to a target market and
process sales transactions using the mail, telephone, or fax, or Internet. Many catalogue retailers
embrace the Internet. When customers are mailed a catalogue from the retailer, they either can
order products by telephone or mail, or through the retailer's Web site. According to Catalogue
Age (2001), the most popular cataloguers recognized by consumers include J.C. Penny, Land's End,
L.L. Bean, and Sears.
Television home-shopping retailers.
Television home-shopping retailers use a program to promote and demonstrate their merchandise
and process transaction over the telephone or Internet or through the mail. The two biggest home
shopping retailers are QVC ("Quality, Value, and Convenience") and HSN (Home Shopping Network).
E-retailers.
The fastest-growing form of non-store retailing is electronic retailing (e-tailing). Electronic retailers
interact with customers and provide products or services for sale using the Internet. During the last
five years of the 1990s, electronic retailing had a rapid growth. Few of the well-known E-retailers
are Amazon, E-bay, Flipkart.

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Reference
www.bergfashionlibrary.com
www.apparelresource.com
www.fiber2fashion.com
http://www.fashionunited.in/news/fashion/indian-women-crossover-to-western-wear-
070820135854
http://www.apparelsearch.com/terms/A/apparel_industry_price_point_definitions.html
https://suite.io/lisa-cucciniello/17a327g