Perfume

1. PERFUME
TRAINING

2. GENERAL

3. What Is
a Fragrance?
A combination obtained through bringing together
raw materials or simple notes. The harmony of such a
combination depends on the balance and olfactory
intensity of each note.
Composed of three moments in its life: top/head
notes, middle/heart notes, and bottom/base notes
that are created with knowledge of:
Evaporation process & Intended use of perfumery.
Top
Notes
Middle
Notes
Base
Notes

4. Top
Notes
Create the first impression, give initial sparks and
make an impact. Top notes are made up of lighter
molecules that evaporate the fastest.
Typical Ingredients: citrus notes, aromatic/herbal notes,
green notes, spicy notes.

5. Middle Notes
Middle notes add character. They follow the top notes and serve as a transition to the base notes.
Typical Ingredients: floral notes, fruity notes, spicy notes, green notes, aromatic/herbal notes.

6. Base notes support Top & Middle notes. They
evaporate the slowest, and have the strongest
long-lasting power, thus, determining much of the
character of a fragrance.
Ingredients: amber notes, woody notes, sweet
notes, musk notes, leather notes.
Base Notes

7. Raw Materials
Perfumery uses a very large range of raw materials (about 1500 different ones at
least), They can be divided by their origin:
ANIMAL
ambergris, musk,
castoreum, civet, etc
VEGETABLES
petals, flowers, rhizomes,
roots, wood, bark, grass,
leaves, fruits, seeds, pods,
beans, gums, resins, algae, etc
SYNTHETIC
petroleum (mineral origin),
turpentine or basic raw
materials of chemical industry:
coumarin, aldehyde, hedione,
vanillin, etc

8. Raw Materials
Carrot Seed Oil
Great perfumers are good at thinking outside the box,
focusing on scent and utilizing seemingly odd ingredients
to make amazing fragrances.

9. Olfactory
Families
Olfactory families allow individual perfumes to be
classified according to their key olfactory
characteristics.
They are created either by grouping together raw
materials (like flowers, woods, aromatics or citric
fruits) or by taking inspiration from traditional
accords (oriental or chypre, for example).

10. Olfactory Families - Traditional
Single Floral
Family
Dominated by
the scent from
one particular
flower
Floral Bouquet
Family
Combination of
several flowers
Amber/Oriental
Family
A mixture of
warmth and
sensuality
Woody
Family
Hot, dry and
elegant
masculine chords
Leather
Family
Midline between
masculine &
feminine, sharp &
characteristic aroma
Fougere
Family
Herbs, spices,
masculine and
aromatic scent
Chypre
Family
Characterized as
strong, spicy and
powdery

11. Olfactory Families – Modern
Bright Floral
Family
Combining the
traditional single
floral & floral
bouquet type
Green
Family
A lighter and more
modern kind of smell
than chypre family,
freshness is its
signature
Aquatic
Family
Bright, fresh and
natural touch
Citrus
Family
Clean and
freshening
Fruity
Family
Greedy and
sweet notes, very
playful
Gourmand
Family
Scents with “edible”
or “dessert” like
qualities

12. Natural perfume is a fragrance derived
completely from minimally processed natural
materials, containing only pure essential oil. It
doesn’t last for a very long time, but it’s 100%
biodegradable.
Natural
Perfume

13. Synthetic
Perfume
Synthetic perfumes are artificial
compounds / materials that contain
Synthetic + Natural scent ingredients +
Alcohol + Water. It lasts a lot longer than
natural perfumes, but it uses non-
renewable energy sources, so it’s more
aggressive to the environment.

14. Synthetic Perfume
Ingredients:
Are They Bad?

15. A bit of perfume math: 4 tons of
roses = 1.600.000 rose blossoms =
1 kg of rose oil.
Did You
Know?
Many synthetic ingredients are created as alternatives to
natural ingredients due to high costs (ie. iris),
overharvesting (ie. sandalwood), or regulation.
Ingredients are restricted or banned if they are in the
allergens list (ie. oakmoss), or because obtaining them
causes harm to natural species (ie. musk).
Synthetic materials allow perfumers to expand their
palettes, reinventing naturally occurring smells, and
creating entirely new smells.

16. TECHNICAL

17. Production
Process
Raw Material Essential Oils Pouring Blending Packing Quality Control

18. Raw Material
Essential oils & synthetic compounds
(named A, B, C, D in this diagram) are
stored horizontally in drums on shelves

19. Essential Oil
Pouring
We produce a mixture of essential oils
based on our own developed formulas
expressed as a quantity percentage.
Eg: Formula 325
Ingredient A= 20% Ingredient C=
45%
Ingredient B= 15% Ingredient D=
20%

20. Blending
Once all ingredients are in the inox tank, we
proceed to blend them until the mix is
homogeneous.

21. Packing
We pack the resulting oil blends back in drums
or other Chemarome packaging options. Now, it
is ready to be shipped to our client.

22. Quality Control
We set up Quality Procedures based on ISO 9001
that ensure that our products and services comply
with a defined set of quality criteria and meet the
customer requirements.

23. Fragrance Storage
Fragrance compounds in perfumes will degrade or break down if
improperly stored in the presence of:
1) Heat 3) Oxygen
2) Light 4) Extraneous Organic Materials
The shelf life of a fragrance in an un-opened drum is about 2 years.

24. Formula
Structure
Adapting formulas to different applications
is something very common in the perfumery
industry.
To ensure an optimum result, we must adapt
the formula structure (top, body and base)
to the final application.
A Fragrance for Dishwashing Liquid
Does not need to be long lasting
because customers do not want to
have their lunch on scented dishes.
That is the reason why the top note is
the main one, followed by the body
note and with a nearly inexistent base.
A Fragrance for Fabric Softener
Consumers these days want their laundry
to smell fresh and clean not only when they
are first taken from the wash, but for weeks
afterwards. That is the reason why base
notes are dosed significantly in fragrances
for Fabric softener.

25. Formula Structure
Personal Care
EDT Body Milk Shower Gel
25%
25%
50%
15%
Covering Effect
30%
Sniff
55%
Substantivity
10%
Covering Effect
40%
50%

26. Formula Structure
Household
Multipurpose/Disinfectant Dishwashing LiquidEDT
25%
25%
50%
30%
Covering Effect
Air Freshening
25%
Sniff
45%
Long Lasting
35%
Covering Effect
60%
5%
Fixation

27. Fabric Softener
15%
25%
60%
Multipurpose/
Disinfectants
30%
25%
45%
Candles
20%
30%
50%
Body Milk
15%
30%
55%
EDT
25%
25%
50%
Electric Air
Freshener
65%
10%
25%
Detergent
15%
25%
60%
Shower Gel
10%
40%
50%
Mikados
35%
55%
10%
Dishwashing Liquid
35%
60%
5%
Formula
Structure

28. Fragrance
Dosage
Applications Dosage
Perfume 18-25%
Eau de Perfume 12-22%
Eau de Toilette 8-15%
Bath Products 0.5-5%
Body Wash 0.3-1%
Shampoo 0.3-1%
Applications Dosage
Creams 0.2-0.5%
Emulsions 0.1-1%
Detergents 0.1-1%
Fabric Softeners 0.1-1%
Soaps 0.5-3%

29. MARKETING

30. What We Do
Olfactory Beauty Field

31. i
Fine Fragrances Personal Care Products
Shower gel, Shampoo,
Deodorant, Cream
Products Application
Fine Fragrances & Personal Care Products
Western Fragrances &
Oriental Fragrances

32. Detergents & Floor Cleaners
Products Application
Home Care Applications
Air Fresheners, Candles & Bakhoor

33. Paints, Glue & Lubricants
Products Application
Industrial Applications