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the first user-generated fashion magazine




i like
   my
stYle              Quarterly

Cyril Duval
      (username: itemidem)
    from New York




  Sophisticated Summer looks
Thought-Provoking Swimwear
          Dating Rules Updated
Au/Be/De/Es/Fr/Gr/It/Nl/Port Cont: € 9.00
CH 13.50 SF UK: £8.50                       Plus:
                                   05       users of ilikemystyle.net on John Galliano, Maurizio Cattelan,
                                                                                            1
                                            Terence koh, Vivienne Westwood, Nicolas Jaar, Wolfgang Tillmans,
4 191858 909006                             the recent collections and their wildest nights
Mash
                                                                          up




                                                              Breaking down the
                                                                 Wall of the Unknown
                                                              Arley Marks / username: amarksa from Providence
                                                              and Andrew Fladeboe / username: fladeboe from
                                                              New York describe a night in the woods of Conneticut.

                                                              We weren’t even supposed to know where that Uzi was
                                                              kept, let alone take it out of its secret drawer in the master
                                                              bedroom of the house that I was the caretaker of. The desert
                                                              Gallibaya I’m wearing was picked up on a cruise down the
                                                              Nile I took the previous year with my out-of-town host. I
                                                              was attracted to this garment named the Gallibaya, Dishda-
                                                              sha or Thawb – which is a common style all over Egypt. It
                                                              really changed the way that I viewed many of the general-
                                                              ized Arabian images that kept popping up on the television
                                                              and in the newspapers – pictures of bearded, burly looking
                                                              men wearing dresses and holding massive machine guns
                                                              while standing in the backs of pickup trucks. Appreciating
                                                              their elements of style softened the distance between us. I
                                                              am not quite sure why it felt like it was a good idea to dress
                                                              up and act out this scenario in the woods of Connecticut.
                                                              In retrospect, it might have been because I felt so removed
                                                              from the reality of the situation in the Middle East and
                                                              wanted to personalize or embody it somehow. This was our
                                                              collective’s way of breaking down the wall of the unknown
                                                              between the culture that had been positioned as “the enemy”
                                                              and our own.
                                                                      P.S. Farewell to one of the worlds most amazing and
                                                              mythical creatures, the now deceased Zeke. R.I.P.
This image was created by Amarksa, an experimental business
collaboration between Arley Marks and his sister, Annabeth
Marks. Arley is currently traveling around Asia to look at
television factories and electronic waste dumps.
You can see more of that here www.autopsia-tv.blogspot.com.


                                                                                                         13
Mash                                                                                        Fashion
                                                up


                                                                                                             HigH PRiest in his owN tribe
                                                                                           Joshua lieberman / username: joshua from New York on a fashion designer
                                                                                           who cheekily interprets American history in his latest collection.

                                                                                                   Architect-turned-provocateur, Siki Im, gleamed as New York Fashion Week’s mens-
                                                                                                   wear sleeper-hit. Just on his fifth show, it’s time he received a proper introduction.
                                                                                                   “Silent Thunderbird Prayer” was neither meticulously sewn nor subtle. Nor were the
                                                                                                   crowded spectators disappointed. Siki instead brought to the fore his mastery of refer-
                                                                                                   ential aesthetics, hinting at identities collapsing over time. As the lights dimmed, the
                                                                                                   accompanying American Indian drummer and vocalist began a loud and seductive an-
                                                                                                   cient chant (Pure Moods). A draping black suit with cropped pants and feather-adorned
                                                                                                   ten-gallon hat emerged on a model wearing leather-tied braids. Merging “natives” and
                                                                                                   “cowboys,” the show began as a reflection on American empire. As neon Mohawks
                                                                                                   replaced shoddy braids, tight jeans replaced draping garments. Siki’s tribe became at
                                                                                                   once Margaret Thatcher’s punks and Queen Anne’s Iroquois, with a smart, cheeky rev-
                                                                                                   erence for tribes relegated to textbooks and street corners, Siki Im is quickly proving
                                                                                                   himself High Priest in his own tribe. sikiim.com




                                                                                                                   At once Magaret
                                                                                                                   Thatcher’s punks
                                                                                                                  and Queen Anne’s
                                                                                                                   Iroquois: images
                                                                                                                from Siki Im’s Fall/
                                                                                                                  Winter 2011 show.

Ayzit Bostan,
“Passport” (limited
edition of 42)




         Flagged!
     eva Munz / username: evvaa from New York on a silk fanzine.

Behind the rather austere title Filed Under hides an artsy gem of a project.
Annahita Kamali and Florian Böhm created a kind of an analog fanzine. It is printed
on 100%silk and every limited piece features work by an artist, architect, designer,
scientist, or photographer. The project launches on April first. We particularly fell in
love with designer Ayzit Bostan’s Turkish passport. Every month, two or three new
objects will be published. Check it out: filedunder.net

                                                                                                                                                                        17
MaSh
                                          up




         Dressing
       Room Piracy
    Spring/Summer 2011
   Featuring users of ilikemystyle.net from New York,
Istanbul and Kopenhagen trying the looks of the season.
 Special guest: MarzIa aloISI (username: marzia) , a
  stylist and a feminist who refuses to wear high heels.
When we told her that snapping those pictures in dress-
ing rooms is only semi-legal, she was instantly hooked.
       (To be continued in the next issue. Feel free to send your piracy pictures
                            to magazine@ilikemystyle.net)




                                                                top: Marzia Aloisi (username:
                                                                marzia) wears golden leather
                                                                zip-up jacket and black
                                                                pleated polyester skirt by
                                                                Miu Miu.
                                                                left: Marzia wears black
                                                                leather bra and belt, polka dot
                                                                silk shirt, and white pleated
                                                                cotton skirt by Comme des
                                                                Garçons.
                                                                opposite page: Marzia wears
                                                                snakeskin bolero and black
                                                                leather high-waisted skirt by
                                                                Azzedine Alaïa.


                                                                                                  25
Fashion




             Splish-
             splaSh!      Nothing comes between
                          me and my swimwear.
                          Users of ilikemystyle.net
                          (and some awesome
                          models) present new
                          looks to get wet in.
                          Photography GraNt
                          CorNett (username: gc),
                          styling James Valeri,
                          (username: jamesvaleri).




JaNet Cho
username: janetscho
wears a vintage black
one-piece swimsuit from
What Comes Around
Goes Around, NYC.


                                                35
Fashion   Splish-
                                      splaSh!




Brian Gallardo
username: whiteboy176
wears bright orange
trunks by Calvin Klein
and Ilikemystyle T-shirt.


                                                41
Splish-
                            splaSh!




artem
shCherbakov
username: artem
wears women’s
flared black swimsuit
trunks by Y-3.
hair: Keiko Hamaguchi
at De Facto
make up: Kristin Gallegos
at Community
styling assistants: Colby
Kelly and Marzia Aloisi


                                      51
Fashion




                            blogger’s
                            delight          Fashion bloggers have
                                          conquered the front rows at
                                          fashion shows but they still
                                         travel light and cheap. Here’s
                                          the photo diary of Dustin
                                           Hanke (username: dustin)
                                         and his friends during Berlin
                                                  Fashion week.
                                                                 The blogger apartment.
                                                            Time: January 18th to January 24th
                                                              Place: Friedrichstrasse, Berlin
                                                                       Inhabitants:
                                                   Josephine Meng, username: josey, summerlisten.com
                                            Cailin Klohk, username: cailin, birdsofafeatherblog.blogspot.com
                                                  Dustin Hanke, username: dustin, shiggersonstreet.com
                                             Oliver Milczarek, username: olivewonder, fashionwhisper.com
                                                     Tim Schmelzer, cometothewildside.blogspot.com
                                                     Julius Leon Salvenmoser, www.youngvanity.com
                                                             Jennifer Zengel, jen-gossip.com

We got to Berlin on
January 18th with           Josephine wears a
                            sweater by Weekday,

loads of baggage and        shorts by Topshop,
                            and shoes by Urban

excitement. We started      Outfitters.
                            Cailin wears a

taking photos right away.   self-made shirt.
                            Dustin wears boots

the wind machine            and hooded jacket
                            by Virginblak

was obligatory.             and black jeans
                            by Cheap Monday.


                                                                                                          53
blogger’s
                         delight




Cailin wears a sweat-
er, skirt, and belt by
Nam Nguyen and
shoes by Topshop.
opposite page: Oliver
wears jeans by Cheap
Monday and vintage
shoes, jacket, and
undershirt.


                                     63
Fashion   blogger’s
                             delight




after long days running
from show to show
we got home, gave each
other foot rubs, and
went off into the night.
these are my favorite
pictures.

                                         65
FaShion




                                                                                       personal
                                                                                       previews
                                                                                        Fashion in summer offers tons
                                                                                        of options, from highly conceptual,
                                                                                        radically eclectic, to next to
                                                                                        nothing. Users of ilikemystyle.net
                                                                                        show their favorite looks for
Violeta Vollmer / username: vivoart from Windhoek
                                                                                        the upcoming season.
Here is my vision of summer style 2011. My partner, Wilfried Vollmer, took the two
photos in December. The left one is in our backyard in Windhoek. The one on the
right was shot in the Great Namib Desert, where we lived for three years. I designed
all the clothes and jewelery myself. vivoart-design.com


                                                                                                                  69
FaShion                                                                                  personal
                                                                                                                                previews




                                                                                           Frida wannerberger / username: featurette from London/Lund/Lausanne
GuglielMo caStelli / username: skydoll from Turin
                                                                                           The Weekdayosaurs. It’s the lookbook of a girl who seems like she’s wearing the
There’s Eva (from Ilikemystyle Quareterly) in the right corner, Adriano (also from         same signature look every day, with a slight variations. The variations may not
the magazine) in the white dress, and me in a green dress. I see the three of us play-     be expressed in her clothes, but her moods and feelings change. Sometimes she’s
ing on swings. We’re all characters from a novel by Virginia Woolf clad in delicate        wearing the Outofcontextosaur’s hat. It says: “Today I feel extremely out of context
Prada dresses. Lady Miuccia’s SS 2011 collection is one of the most beautiful she          and don’t feel like I belong with you guys.” It helps remind her that she’s herself,
has ever created. I’m addicted to her styles. Every season I have to illustrate at least   no matter who she’s with or what city she’s in or what she’s wearing. This image is
one Prada outfit. Here it’s three happy-go-lucky muses: careless, lighthearted, and        a photoshopped collage of drawings, I use eveything from markers and crayons to
sublimely dressed! castelliguglielmo.blogspot.com                                          rainbow pens. fridawannerberger.blogspot.com


                                                                                                                                                                    73
FaShion                                                                     personal
                                                                            previews

          Mai KuMoji
          username: maishion from berlin

          I’m wearing a black hat and a white ‘Run-
          ning Wings’ T-shirt by H&M. The raccoon’s
          tail by H&M is an important SS11 item.
          The high-waisted 80s shorts by Topshop are
          also a must-have for the season.
          maishion.blogspot.com


                                                                                  Marcus Luft
          Mai-Linh alice Huynh                         username: tooposhtopush from Hamburg
          username: addiction from Munich
                                                             My favorite look? My new surgeon’s
          I need the sun and this vintage/selfmade           gown-inspired Prada sweater with an
          mint green dress is just so perfect for         uncomfortable collar. I ‘ve been hearing
          SS11! Model/styling/make-up/photogra-             the phrase, “when are we moving into
          phy (via timer!) by Mai-Linh Alice Huynh.           the theater, Doc?” quite often lately.
          iheartalice.blogspot.com                                       tooposhtopush.twoday.net




                                                                                                       Giancarlo cruz
                                                                                                       username: giancinephile
                                                                                                       from Manila
                                                                                                       White has once again been
                                                                                                       a major gesture in the SS11
                                                                                                       collections. These past few
                                                                                                       days, I’ve been obsessed
                                                                                                       with this white blazer and
                                                                                                       combining it with more neu-
                                                                                                       tral tones. I wanted a pal-
                                                                                                       pable lightness and easiness.
                                                                                                       Légèreté!!! The double-
                                                                                                       breasted blazer here is by
                                                                                                       Topman and the trousers are
                                                                                                       by Zegna Sport. The shirt is
                                                                                                       by Hugo Boss and the shoes
                                                                                                       are by Opening Ceremony.
                                                                                                       giancinephile.typepad.com


                                                                                                                79
FaShion




                                 hellocharles
                                  Don’t be confused; swapping
                                       is the new shopping.
                                   These Williamsburg ladies
                                  surrounding Molly STene
                                    (username: hellocharles) break
                                     roommate boundaries to
                                     create Maison Brooklyn.
                                     Photographer Alexey
                                   yurenev (username: alexey)
                                       steals candid shots of
                                          their exchanges.
                                      read the joint literary
                                        efforts on page 233.



Amelia Muir (username: meow)
wears bra by Forever 21.
Kobi Loehr (username:
rascalmclane) wears raincoat
from Goodwill, Florida.
Molly Stene (username:
hellocharles) wears dress from
Catholic Consignments, CA.


                                                               83
FaShion   hellocharles




Kobi wears skirt by
Holloween Adventure
Shop, New York, shirt
by Tucker, and raincoat
from Goodwill, Florida.
Molly wears bathing
suit by age 7.


                                                   85
FaShion




                                             for
                                             Sale
                                              Shop assistants are a
                                              blessing in disguise:
                                              they’ll deplete your bank
                                              account, and they’ll
                                              make you look stunning.
                                              Users of ilikmystyle.net
                                              introduce six retail
                                              authorities and their
                                              picks of the season.


Pojjana Junsuvun, sales assistant at Club
21 in Bangkok, recommends stilettos by
Balmain: “They were not love-at-first
sight, but the second I put them on I felt
a stunning transformation. They will win
over your heart, especially when paired
with a low-key, basic dress.”


                                                                 95
FaShion                                                for
                                                                                                           Sale




                                                                                               1       2




    1                                                         2




                                                                                                                                    5




                                                                                       3           4


                          3


                                                                                                                  Munich
Bangkok                                                   4
                                                                                                                  Store: Schwittenberg, Hildegardstrasse 2,
                                                                                                                  schwittenberg.com
                                                                                                                  Correspondent: Christopher Romberg
                                                                                                                  (username: rombocombo)
Store: Club 21, 494 Ploenchit Road,                                                                               Salesperson: Audrey Marcie
erawanbangkok.com
Correspondent: Thanawat Chotronnaphat                                                                             1 Dress by Acne: “Snakeprint can be a blessing
(username: kenfever)                                                                                                or a curse. This one is a true blessing.”
Salesperson: Pojjana Junsuvun, nickname: Poj                                                                      2 Leather Top by Ayzit Bostan: “I love Ayzit
                                                                                                                    Bostan for her pure and ingenious design.
1   Dress by Lanvin: “Its lively, vibrant color will                                                                This top is ingeniously sexy.”
    brighten your days.”                                                                                          3 Shirt by Hope: “I got this for my boyfriend.
2   Skirt by Balmain: “It doesn’t look like leather                                                                 He looks irresistibly cute when he wears it.”
    at first glance, but it really is made of leather.                                                            4 Peep Toes by Martin Margiela: “The amaz-
    I love its chic design, plus a bit of gangster                                                                  ing construction (half the heel is hidden in
                                                                  photos: rombocombo




    feel.”                                                                                                          leather) makes your stiletto walk look twice
3   Poj wears bracelets of independent design.                                                                      as cool as Kylie’s.”
4   Bag by Lanvin: “Cheerful, lovely, and fun                                                                     5 Dress by WoodWood: “The perfect promise
    with interesting material.”                                                                                     for a great summer. By the way, I’ll spend
5   T-Shirt by MQ: “I love the original skull print.                                                                mine in the South of France.”
                                                          5                                6
    Here the flower gives it a sweet edge.”                                                                       6 Audrey Marcie wears a dress by A.P.C.



                                                                                                                                              97
StOries



                                         “I’m all for
                                         a healthy, active,
                                         and interesting
                                         sex life.”
                                         Khadeja Wilkinson,
                                         username: nylonmoron




“I’d love a
relationship.
But not a
complicated one.”
Kalan Briggs,
username: itsKalan




                        blind
Kalan wears blue
stripe shirt by BDG
for Urban Outfitters,
511 twill pants by
Levi’s, thunder grey
suede hightops by
Supra, digital dial
watch, and backpack
                        Dates
                        Where does a Romanian
                        man find a girl? Is being gay
by Fossil.
                        in Singapore a challenge?
opposite page:
Khadeja wears a         Who’s paying, kissing,
black bandeau body-
suit by American        screwing up on the first
Apparel under a faux
leather jacket by       date? Users of ilikemystyle.net
Stitches with makeup
by MAC. Her perfume     talk about the reality and the
of choice is Hot
Couture by Givenchy.    potential of their love lifes.
                                                         107
StOries                                                                                                  blind
                                                                                                                                                    dates

                                                                                                     your “me” time. I’m totally of the mindset         love my bike! That reminds me. I haven’t
                                                                                                     that “me”- time is important. Have you             checked out your pictures yet. But how do
                                                                                                     ever tried dating somewhat long distance?          you feel about sending photos to someone
                                                                                                     I find that you get your “me”-time, plus           you’re talking to?
                                                                                                     the time you spend together is sweeter.          Khadeja: What kind of photos? Casual
    Toronto vs. dallas:                                                                            Kalan: I haven’t. Have you?                          photos are no big deal... I’ve definitely

ToronTo boys have                                                                                  Khadeja: Sure. Conveniently, my ex-boy-
                                                                                                     friend was studying in a university town
                                                                                                                                                        sent boyfriends more interesting birthday
                                                                                                                                                        presents when they’re far away, spontane-
Freudian mOmmy iSsues                                                                                a three-hour bus ride from me. So I saw            ous surprises are always nice. By the same
                                                                                                     him every other weekend, spontaneous               token, as a female, I totally appreciate
By Khadeja WIlKInSOn (username: nylonmoron) from Toronto                                             visits during the week, breaks, and over           getting them back. What about you, huh?
and Kalan BRIggS (username: itskalan) from dallas                                                    the summer. It was pretty perfect.                 Ever sent photos?
                                                                                                   Kalan: That sounds amazing.                        Kalan: Maybe it’s just different over here.
Khadeja: Hey!                                     ier what with such busy schedules. Hon-          Khadeja: The relationship stayed in that             I love photos in general. I’m just really
Kalan: How’s it going?                            estly, the most success I’ve had meeting           exciting “getting-to-know-you” phase for           picky about my face sometimes. Yeah, I
Khadeja: Pretty well, enjoying a Monday           people has been online. Go figure? What            a while and I was never distracted from            pretty much keep a camera on me at all
  without class, haha. And yourself?              about you?                                         school. It was wonderful. It was a treat           times.
Kalan: Lucky you! I’m at work.                  Kalan: For some reason I don’t have much             when I got to see him, instead of wanting        Khadeja: I used to do photography; I al-
Khadeja: Oh? Where do you work?                   luck meeting people online. Usually I              to get away. I recommend it, but I mean,           ways have cameras around, too. Although
Kalan: I work for Fossil. What about you?         meet people as friends of friends and we           you also have to take into consideration           I much prefer film to digital, film is...pric-
  And you’re in college?                          just start to hang out. I’ve noticed lately I      trust issues, right? Because being far apart       ey, hahaha.
Khadeja: University! I’m at the University        like to have a lot of time to myself to relax,     can give full opportunity for cheating and       Kalan: Awesome! I got my degree in pho-
  of Toronto, studying astrophysics. It’s im-     read a book, or watch some shows, and              you never know...                                  tography. And I just made the switch to
  possible to date within school, haha.           that doesn’t sit too well with most ladies.      Kalan: Yes definitely. Trust seems to be hard        film this year. I carry a Lomo LC-A+ at
Kalan: Haha. How old are you?                   Khadeja: Haha, leaving them feeling un-              to maintain even in a close relationship!          all times now and I use digital as a back
Khadeja: Well I just turned 21.                   wanted and alone? Do you think you’re            Khadeja: What’s the scene like in Dallas?            up. I’m in love with the quality that film
Kalan: That’s pretty exciting. Why is it          seeing girls who are just slightly too high        Do all the trendy kids know and date each          produces. You just can’t fake it.
  hard to date at your university?                maintenance?                                       other? It’s like that in Toronto. Everyone       Khadeja: It’s so true. I was definitely
Khadeja: The issue is the demographic that      Kalan: I guess you could say that. It leaves         graduates high-school within the same              lucky, I went to an art high school. What
  apply to science: nerdy, socially awkward,      me feeling like a bad person. I tend to            five years. And it becomes this crazy city-        do you think about dating other people in
  dorky - and not really in the endearing         keep away from dating for the moment.              wide thing where you can’t hook up with            the art scene?
  way - and I don’t quite fit in.                 Not saying I wouldn’t like to, though.             anyone without everyone knowing and              Kalan: I think it could be fun. I have yet to
Kalan: Gotcha, that makes sense. But there        Maybe the girls I find most attractive are         that person having dated three of your             date someone who’s also into art. My last
  has to be a few people who have your in-        too much maintenance for me. I’d like to           friends. It’s terrible and makes trust very        girlfriend was much more into sports.
  terest right?                                   think I’m a pretty simple person.                  complicated.                                     Khadeja: I do the same! My boyfriends are
Khadeja: Not that I’ve discovered. I find       Khadeja: I feel like that’s the motto of           Kalan: I wouldn’t say we have many trendy            all jocks. And the only artsy guy I dated,
  I’m more attracted to the TAs and the           most boys I know, haha.                            people. Oops. But we are home of the TV            was secretly artsy and openly a jock, ha!
  profs than anything, haha.                    Kalan: Haha. Hey! I’d love a relationship.           show called Cheaters. That can’t be good.        Kalan: Wow, a closet artist. That’s too fun-
Kalan: Nice. Older people can be quite at-        But not a complicated one. An honest one.        Khadeja: Haha. I know, I was surprised               ny. What was your longest relationship?
  tractive. What would be your ideal way to       I feel like I have to second-guess what            when I saw your photos, and then saw you         Khadeja: The closet artist, actually. We
  meet someone?                                   girls really mean when they say some-              were from Texas! You fit right in with the         dated for about two years, and he was
Khadeja: I don’t know really. I would love        thing. And that’s no fun.                          west end Toronto kids and all their trendy         from Vancouver.
  to meet someone through school, which         Khadeja: I don’t think you should have to            attire, especially with a bike.                  Kalan: Nice, what happened with that?
  would make seeing that person much eas-         feel like a bad person just because you like     Kalan: Thanks, you’re too kind. Oh how I           Khadeja: Well. He was too old for me. My

                                                                                                                                                                                  109
StOries                                        blind
                                                                dates


                                                                        “all these way
                                                                        too perfect
                                                                        boys... I prefer
                                                                        them with
                                                                        natural defects.”
                                                                        margaux Salgado,
                                                                        username: mllemargaux




                                      Margaux wears a
                                      flower print skirt by
                                      Hurwundeki, t-shirt
                                      by Sud Express, candy
                                      apple pumps by Marc
                                      by Marc Jacob, silver
                                      necklace by Dior,
                                      self-designed pearl
                                      necklace, Everlong
                                      mascara and Touche
                                      Éclat by Yves Saint
                                      Laurent, face powder

“Romanian                             by Georgia Benefit
                                      and eyeliner by Isa-

girls don’t have                      Dora. Her perfume of
                                      choice is Viva la Juicy

that Victorian                        by Juicy Couture.
                                      opposite page:
approach to sex.”                     Mihaela wears black
                                      leopard t-shirt by
mihaela joe, username: ThingsWelove   Stella McCartney.


                                                                                    117
stories




                                                                         The real
                                                                         Cyril                       French artist,
                                                                                                     Cyril Duval
                                                                                                     (username: itemidem),
                                                                                                     takes appropriation
                                                                                                     art very seriously:
                                                                                                     it’s carefully
                                                                                                     composed and
                                                                                                     hysterically executed.




                                                                           photo: Keetja Allard
                                                                                                     JoaChim Bessing
                                                                                                     (username: jbessing)
                                                                                                     takes a peek into
In 2007 Cyril went to Art Basel Miami for the first time. He was                                     his ubiquitious,
invited on a one-day press trip (i.e. private plane) in the Turks &
Caicos to visit a soon-to-open (never happened!), starchitect-                                       ever-expanding
designed, 6 star private island resort for billionaires. Perpetually
                                                                                                     travelogue/lookbook.




                                                                           photo: Megumi Matsubara
traveling with funny props from Japan (here faux braces, moustache
and a vocoder microphone), he also scored a caterpillar inflatable –
the same one Jeff Koons used in his Popeye series according to Jean
Pigozzi, the notorious art collector who was also present on the trip.
opposite page: This is the first installment of a genre Cyril created
with his Tokyo clique. They call it “advertisement pantomime.”
Here he is mimicking a notorious Japanese actor drinking beer.


                                                                                                                      125
stories



   I saw Cyril for the first time in three weeks at
   the opening night of Pierrot Lunaire – a rather
   obscure opera composed by Arnold Schoenberg,
   directed by Bruce LaBruce and costume de-
   signed by Zaldy, who’s designed for Lady Gaga
   as well as the late Michael Jackson – scanning
   the crowded foyer of the old but beautiful the-
   atre Hebbel am Ufer on a very very cold night
   in Berlin. I recognized his mother first. He had
   sent an email to a selective group of friends that
   morning stating that his mother would appear
   clad in white from head to toe. The email, how-
   ever, lacked any mention of his own outfit. The
   slim, moustachioed guy wearing Le Corbusier-
   style glasses in a black Christian Dior suit and
   a very wide, checkered shirt – also in white and
   black – was definitely him. I recognized him
   by the shoes. They were golden Louis Vuitton
   lace-ups. He wore that very pair the first time we
   met, also in Berlin, only a year ago (the defining
   moment of the night made it into the “Remem-
   ber How You Lost It”-spread of Ilikemystyle
   Quarterly’s second issue). Since then, I’ve seen
   Cyril a few thousand times, to give a rough es-
   timate. On Facebook. And he rarely looks the
   same twice.
           That night, I could decipher his appear-
   ance as a result of his function within Mr. La-
   Bruce’s production team. The theater’s brochure
   listed him as Art Director under his nom de




   This is self-explanatory. Cyril shot this in his first
   apartment in Tokyo, it was quite simple!
   opposite page: Some people relate Cyril to “appro-
   priation art.” But he believes it’s better to embrace
   his consistant body of references. He claims that
                                                            photo: Paul Sepuya




   he doesn’t steal or appropriate, rather he evokes
   and sometimes comments on. “Nazi Milk” is an
   image originally created by the art collective
   General Idea, one of his central references. Cyril
   isn’t interested in novelty at all cost; he just grabs
   the ingredients he needs wherever he finds them.


                                                                                 127
stories                          The real
                                                                                                          Cyril


                        plume, Item Idem. So the round, dark rimmed
                        glasses made sense. As soon as the curtain was
                        lifted, it was very clear that the stage was de-
                        signed mainly in stark reference to German
                        Expressionist black and white movies à la The
                        Cabinet of Dr. Caligari, and that Cyril’s black
                        and white outfit paid homage to that period.
                                 I’d like not to refer to that tiny, exquisite
                        animal with the beautiful, roll-out tongue and
                        intriguing, cone-shaped eyes that has the unique
                        capacity of adapting its look to whatever surface
                        it’s placed upon. That would be too obvious,
                        plus it would be missing the point. Cyril did not
                        wear the suit, moustache, shirt, and glasses to
                        disappear. He wore this outfit to complement the
                        general mood of the occasion.
                                 When the German designers, Bless,
                        asked him to run their Berlin showroom for a
                        month (running it literally meant living there,
photo: Hiroshi Manaka




                                                                                   photo: Mote Sinabel




                                                                                                         This is the first poodle Cyril ever worked with. Here
                                                                                                         the canine teaches him some Warholian battle strategies
                                                                                                         in his first Tokyo space, Carniche Courage.
photo: Simon Castets




                                                                                                         opposite page top: Cyril modeling as an architect for a
                                                                                                         fashion story he directed for Tokion Magazine.
                                                                                                         opposite page bottom: Bernhard Willhelm gave him
                                                                                                         this samurai armor, which he wore at the opening of
                                                                                                         the 2009 Venice Biennial.


                                                                                                                                             129
StOries




Delirious
 Phnom
  Penh
 The capital emboies the brief
     period in history when
 Cambodia was all love, hope,
       dreams and songs.
 Eva Munz (username: evvaa)
   on the visionary modernist
architect, vann MOlyvann.
   How a nation’s dreams get
       built – and buried.




      The Theatre Bassac shortly before it was
       torn down in 2008. It lies near a branch
      of the Mekong River. Molyvann designed
             it to look like a steam boat.


                                                  141
Delirious
              Phnom
               Penh




          Molyvann’s public
   housing project was shaped like
a friendly waving hand. Today it feels
more like the heart of darkness and is
           engulfed in trash.




                                         155
stories



That night I understood
that friends are more
important and they last
forever. I saw Rome
in a different way.
Eleonora Carisi / username: joujou from Turin
                                 more on page 160




                                                    Remember
                                                    where you
                                                    lost it
                                                    This issue’s verdict: successful
                                                    party nights require good
                                                    company and excellent music
                                                    but lead to surprisingly little
                                                    sex. Users of ilikemystyle.net on
                                                    their nocturnal adventures.
                                                                                    157
stories                       REmember
                              where
                              You LoSt it




                   In Disco God
          by
                       WE Trust
               MaTina TRiantafillou / username: matan from Athens

                        Skull Bar, Athens, Greece at the Yes it Does
                   Where?
                             Sure it Does Party (Yid Sid).
               What were they wearing? There wasn’t a dress code.
           What were you wearing? A Beverly Hills T-shirt, hot pants, my
              new custom made black low-cut boots with metal studs,
            Diamond by Armani perfume, makeup by Korres, and Estée
                                Lauder silver jewelry.
          What was special about that night? Every Yid Sid Party is special
                  because of the guests and the music they curate.
           Soundtrack? Anthony and The Camp – “What I Like” (Totally
                               addicted to this track!).
             Other people? People I didn’t know, but wanted to meet.
                                Transportation? Taxi.
                          Drink/Stimulation? Lots of rum!
                              Highlight? Lots of flirting!
              Sex? Well I didn’t have sex with the one I wanted, but…
           Sleep? I slept from six in the morning till two in the afternoon.




                                                                  163
stories                                    REmember
                                           where
                                           You LoSt it




                       I Quit SMoking,
                by
                          noT DAncing
                     Fatima Poblador / username: fatz96 from Manila

               Where?   32nd Street in Manila at The Fort for FLUXXE Thursdays.
                         Who were the most important people? Everyone!
                              Topics? Got there too drunk to even talk!
          What were you wearing? A vintage, lace bolero, a black belt with floral print,
            and bleached jeans by Mango. I wore a fragrance by Tommy Hilfiger and
                         some cosmetics my sister sent me from the States.
              What was special? FLUXXE! – a party that used to be every Thursday.
                            Too bad it only happens occasionally now.
           Soundtrack? I was so drunk that night that I honestly can’t recall any special
          song that stuck in my head. The DJs usually play “Paris feat. Au Revoir Sim-
                 one (Aeroplane remix)” by Friendly Fires, “Paris is Burning” by
          Ladyhawke, “Special” by Mew, Rosin Murphy, MGMT, and a lot of 80’s punk
           rock and pop. Well, yeah you get the picture. The tracks played at FLUXXE
                             aren’t the usual club songs here in Manila.
            Other people? Models, DJs, local fashion designers, foreigners, lovely gay
           friends, indie chicks, artists. Dancing, talking, exchanging numbers, getting
                               drunk and probably doing some coke?!
                         Transportation? Took a cab with a friend, I think.
            Drink/Stimulation? Lots of alcohol and Valium. Marlboro Lights (but I’ve
                                        quit smoking by now).
               Highlight? Me dancing on top of the speakers and not giving a fuck!




                                                                              173
KUltur
                                                                     kriTik




                                 directions
                                                           artDoes fashion rip off
                                                              art? Are artists just
                                                              designers in bad
                                                              outfits? The similarities
                                                              and differences between
                                                              the two worlds generate
                                                              intrigue. Users of
                                                              ilikemystyle.net meet
                                                              and interact with
                                                              some masterpieces.

                            Cheating StatUe from Berlin
                            JanA Galinowski / username: missjana

                       Here I’m enacting a One-Minute-Sculpture at the Kunstbau Lenbachhaus in Munich in 2010.
                       It was an installation by the artist, Erwin Wurm. Apart from static sculptures, like the car in the
                       background, there were two platforms. One had two chairs with which the visitors themselves
                       could become sculptures for one minute. Wurm gave instructions on how to hold the chairs. It
                       felt stupid, but was still a lot of fun. I had not seen anything by Erwin Wurm before. Generally I
                       am not very interested in sculpture or performance art – but I like the idea of art that doesn’t take
Jana wears jeans and   itself too seriously. I also like art that does not keep the spectators at a distance, which is why I
cardigan by H&M,
shirt by COS, and
                       happily stepped on the platform to pose with the chair. Maybe I cheated a bit, as I couldn’t hold
sneakers by Adidas.    the pose for an entire minute.

                                                                                                        177
KUltur
                                             kriTik




                     HAil to the Sheep
               SeleNe Mauvis / username: selene from Geneva

This picture was taken the evening before a presentation at art school. I was trying to figure out
how to present this sheep so I placed it on the ladder. As a commentary about fashion, I decided
to do a tribute to the sheep. It gives us wool and also leather for jackets. The sheep is a really
cool ‘animal god.’ I love it! That night, I dreamed I was in a field with a lot of sheep and as I
stood in front of the sun, they thought I was their god.




    The Artist aS A Pampered PeT
         Mark Jan Krayenhoff van de Leur / username: MKNYC from New York

I was walking down 8th Avenue in Chelsea, New York, when a young woman approached me
and introduced herself as Tracey Mancenido, half of the photographer couple, Tribble and Man-
cenido. She asked if I was interested in having my photograph taken. I took her card and looked
at their website, liked what I saw, and agreed to do it.
         I always enjoy having my portrait taken because I get to see different sides of myself.
I think I know what I look like – I see myself in the mirror every morning – but I always see
something different when someone photographs me.
         They wanted to photograph me in my home, so they came over to my apartment with
                                                                                                                                photo: Tribble & Mancenido




their lights and equipment and set to work. In the background you see a large painting titled “P
                                                                                                     photo: Tribble&Mancenido




is for Poodle.” It’s a self-portrait of my husband, AA Bronson, and his two former partners in
                                                                                                                                                             Mark wears customized
the art collective, General Idea, dressed as poodles. They chose the image of the poodle to il-                                                              jeans by artist, Erik
lustrate how they saw the place of the artist in contemporary society – as pampered, decorative                                                              Hanson, shirt by Comme
                                                                                                                                                             des Garçons, and sits
pets who exist at the mercy of collectors and patrons. “Those who live to please must please to                                                              on a Wink chair by
live,” they declared.                                                                                                                                        Toshiyuki Kita.


                                                                                                                                                                 179
KUltur                                                                                        art
                                             kriTik                                                                                directiOns




The MArtyrdom of Jean-Charles Cornay
 etienne DesCloux / username: etienne from Berlin

Danh Vo, L’artiste et le décorateur, Galerie Daniel Buchholz, Cologne, 28 May - 22 August 2010
There are three distinct works of art in this photo.
        I. An ottoman made of mahogany with maple intarsia, upholstered in Pompeian red
moiré, from Berlin 1825.
        II. A painting by an unknown Vietnamese artist depicting the martyrdom of Jean-Charles
Cornay, who was cut into pieces on 20 September 1837, entitled “Martyre du Bienheureux
Charles Cornay, M.E.P., coupé en morceaux au Tonkin, le 20 Septembre 1837.” It’s from the
collection of the Missions-Étrangère, Paris, printed on silk chiffon.
        III. White glazed tiles, each screen printed with a plant detail in red (RAL 3200 & Pan-
tone warm-red-c). The prints are from a list of flowers discovered by the French missionary,
Jean-André Soulié, in southern China and Tibet: Aconitum souliei, inflorescence portion; Lilium
souliei, outer and inner tepel; Anemone coelestina var. souliei, flowering plant; Rosa soulieana,
fruit; Aconitum souliei, cauline leaf; Anemone coelestina, basal leaf; Anemone coelestina, car-
pel; Luzula rufescens, flowering plant; Anconitum souliei, upper cauline leaf; Anemone coeles-
tina, basal leaf; Anemone coelestina, flowering plant; Rosa soulieana, fruiting branch; Lilium
souliei, distal portion of flowering plant; Nepeta souliei, flowering plant; Rosa soulieana, flow-
ering branch; Cerasus fruticosa, fruiting branch; Cerasus tomentosa var. souliei, fruiting branch.
In 1905, a conflict arose between Tibet and China. Caught by the Tibetan monks at Batang while
trying to escape, Soulié was tortured for fifteen days and then shot.
                                                                                                     Etienne wears pleated
        IV. Through the door is a bathroom imagined in consultation with the architect Etienne       pants by BLESS N°23
Descloux PE-P.                                                                                       and desert boots by Clarks.


                                                                                                                                                 181
kulturkritik




                                                                                                      clOSe-
         DiStraction from MOtherhood
                                                                   HellOdeeder
                                                                        from Huntington Beach
                                                                                                        upS
                                                                                                       Style reflects the
                                                                                                       person it belongs
                  by   Mark Holgate                                                                    to, but how does it
Of course, the first thought when you see this image is: Has anyone alerted social services yet?!
                                                                                                       hold up under a
It’s the depiction of motherhood that interests me here, not so much Hellodeeder’s look, which         magnifying glass?
is as insistently 1970s as anything Giorgio Moroder recorded back in the day, very appropri-           Industry authorities
ate given that the plunge front white dress and dusky pink-beige satin sandals are very Donna
[Summer, not Karan] in her Munich/Ariola years. That said, I do love the eyebrows; circumflex
                                                                                                       review the users
punctuation between the round oversized glasses and the turban-like head wrap. But in the end,         of ilikemystyle.net .
it’s the kid that stays in the mind with this picture. Even in its amateurish way, it evokes a kind
of Helmut Newton-like DISTRACTION FROM the act of motherhood – it’s the creation of a
hot new look that holds the attention, not the result of procreation – and it slyly gives a nod to
modern celebrity mothers, who accumulate kids the way movie stars used to collect diamonds.
It’s a whole other interpretation of Madonna and child.

                       Mark Holgate is the Fashion News Director at Vogue


                                                                                                                               195
Stories




    In
   Purgatory                        Bella lieBerBerg
                                    (username: bellalieb)
                                    started shooting green
                                    rooms to capture the
                                    environment where
                                    musicians chill before,
                                    and party after their
                                    concerts; where
                                    they warm up their
                                    voices, entertain their
                                    groupies, and relax or
                                    excite themselves by
Bryan Ferry
Berlin, Tempodrom                   any means necessary.
12:02am                             lyrics, voices, and
It’s a luxurious green room
for this legend. I grew up with
                                    melodies are her
“More Than This” and “Let’s
Stick Together,” and when I
                                    inspiration. every
saw his room, it felt so perfect.
The furnishings were all deep
                                    room sings a song.
red for a man, a lover, a genius.
Even so, he didn’t spend that
much time backstage and disap-
peared right after the show.


                                                        203
Stories




          The Frattelies
          Berlin, Kesselhaus
          03:21am
          I had to wait a long time until
          they went on, but it was a great
          show. I love the intimate size of
          the venue, Kesselhaus. You can
          really connect with the artists
          on stage. It’s an “entry stage”
          for smaller bands. You may
          meet them in a couple years in
          a far-off stratosphere, without
          empty bags of chips in their
          undersized green room.


                       205
KUltur
                             kriTik




School
ofii:Fashion
vol. dries van noten
                  What to read, watch,
                  grow, and wear to become
                  a bulletproof style expert.
                  AdriAno SAcK (username:
                  Adriano) talks with Belgian
                  fashion designer drieS
                  vAn noTen about his
                  vast list of references.


Detail from Dries Van
Noten’s Fall/Winter 2011
collection.
All photos except for
the portrait taken by
Sonny Vandefelde


                                           213
KUltur
                                                kriTik




                                  Dries Van Noten in his
                                  studio in Antwerp.




Dries Van Noten’s F/W 2011 Women’s Collection was presented in Paris at the Hotel de Ville
in one of those gigantic, lushly decorated halls the city offers in abundance. The show began
with some electronic grumbling, the echo of iconic guitar chords and, later, David Bowie sing-
ing about being a temporary hero. The original 1977 track had been remixed, amplifying the
pureness and drama of Bowie’s youthful voice. After his show – rich in patterns, colors, fabrics;
spirited, yet focused – Mr. Van Noten, a 52 year-old gentleman, rubbed elbows while his partner
and their dog stood by. The atmosphere was decidedly un-hysterical.
        When I sat down with him the next day in his Paris office, he was friendly and attentive,
emoting a polite dash of let’s-get-this-over-with. The sales seem to be going nicely, the re-
views have been mixed, he acknowledged: “It’s easier to start with the next collection if people
weren’t too excited about the previous one. Otherwise the expectations get bigger and bigger,
which can be a bit scary.” A major catalyst of the Belgian design wave in 1988 — along with
Ann Demeulemeester, Walter von Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs, Dirk van Saene, and Marina
Yee – Mr. Van Noten had his moments, both brilliant and moderate. Never selling his name, he
has stayed true to his vision and established his individual interpretation of chic. That is, when
fashion made its most recent switch from minimalism to wealth (in color, vibrancy, emotion),
he seemed to have anticipated it all along.
        But, for being a legend he’s rather relaxed.



Art
● Francis Bacon ● Russian Constructivists ● Jef Verheyen ● Rubens ● Van Eyck ● the
Flemish masters ● Bronzino

Your runways have always been in conversation with the work of artists, most notably the Belgian fluxus
painter, Jef Verheyen. What other art do you draw from?
       I look at things and translate them into garments and fabrics and patterns. I saw a Fran-
       cis Bacon exhibition in London. The sheer amount of works was overwhelming. I was
THe Words                                                                                           4 LiFe changers




4 LiFe changers
encounters with, impressions of,
                                                                                                     Italian and has a hoarse voice, like he has happily lived outside law for quite some time. We
                                                                                                     were ordering a lukewarm red soup, when Patti Smith came in. Tangled hair, funny coat, sneak-
                                                                                                     ers, jeans, mostly black, nothing from this century. The hair fell into her face like on the album
                                                                                                     cover of Wave. I felt my heart beating. Since I meet stars professionally all the time, usually the
performances by...                                                                                   opposite happens when I see them: I get drugged with fatigue. Recently in Rome I asked Javier
                                                                                                     Bardem if the beach was the best location to pick up girls and his PR person threw me out. I
... Yves saint LAurent                                                                               never had a poster of Patti up on the wall, but when I am in need of a name for a heroine in my
         by   cordula reyer / username: cordula from Los Angeles                                     books, I always want to call them Patti. Now, after Franzen’s unforgettable Patty Berglund, I
                                                                                                     can’t – obviously. I whispered to my friend that it was Patti Smith. We conducted a mock con-
Following the advice of my friend Helmut Lang, and since I was trying hard to impress him, I         versation while she waited for her food. Take out vegan pizza! Any minute she would be gone.
ran around Paris trying get booked at another fashion show.                                          I wanted to tell her so badly that... I couldn’t think of anything to say. She was looking in her
         I wore his Demel dress to all of my castings: black with a turtleneck, long sleeves, knee   pocket for change. “The time is now! The time is now.” I was fifteen and hated my parents for
length; it had some pleats around the shoulders and from the waist down. It was cotton jersey,       being nice when I was listening to Horses. Why should I tell her that? She left the restaurant.
sexy, and comfortable. I wore it for weeks – hand-washing and blow-drying it at night so I could     I was disappointed. Why did she have to buy lunch on Thanksgiving? Why wasn’t she served
wear it again the next day. The dress got plenty of compliments, but I didn’t book another show.     like the greatest rock singer she is apart from my friend Kelly Britton? It had looked as if she
It was truly frustrating. My last casting was for Yves Saint Laurent. While waiting to go in, my     was cold. My friend acted as if he understood. I did not care what he was thinking. Suddenly the
model friend whispered, “If you don’t wear red lipstick, they wont even look at you.”                door opened and she came back. She must have forgotten something. My friend said something
         I smeared some on without looking in a mirror and entered the sacred YSL halls. YSL         but I couldn’t hear him. I turned around, went over to her and heard my own voice: “I love your
was a big deal. Everyone wanted to do the show and suddenly I got so nervous, I could barely         music. I have always loved it. I am so grateful. Please never stop making music.” She looked
move my neck. It felt like I was entering another world. Red curtains, red velvet sofas, mirrors,    like Franzen’s Patty, like someone’s unremarkable mom. And then she smiled. “Thank you!”
flowers in heavy crystal vases, and a French bulldog snoring on the red carpet. Beautiful, kind
ladies with red lipstick bustling around. Now it was my turn. Lulu de la Falaise came to talk to
me and look at my photographs. She impressed me with her elegance and curiosity and made me          ... Kenny scharf
feel at ease with her natural warmth and kindness. After a few minutes, she disappeared through               by   Joshua LieBerman / username: joshua from new York
a door, telling me to wait. She returned with a man in a white work coat, whom she had to drag
out to see me.                                                                                       Growing old sucks. Or at least that’s what I thought until I met Kenny Scharf who – now in his
         It was Monsieur Saint Laurent. He was so shy he could barely look at me. When he            early fifties – still parties just as hard as anyone else at Le Bain. For me, Kenny’s work has al-
finally did, he came closer, kissed me on the neck and whispered: comme vous etes belles. That       ways evoked the memory of his post-pop partner-in-crime, and my favorite artist, Keith Haring,
season, I did two shows. One for Helmut Lang, a friend, and the other for the kindest man I ever     who died twenty years ago; the association had always been a morbid, depressing one. I was
met: Mister Yves Saint Laurent.                                                                      startled to see him on the dance floor, camouflaged in a sea of youthful excitation, but then it
                                                                                                     clicked: no matter how old you get and no matter how many losses you experience, life is simply
                                                                                                     too short to ever stop partying your ass off.
... patti smiTh                                                                                              Earlier that night, I was sharing some wine with Maria (username: urbanviking). We
         by   Kristin rübesamen / username: Kristinberlin from Berlin                                ranted on and on about the pains and responsibilities of being 21 in New York. We insincerely
                                                                                                     swore off hangovers and long nights, and decided we both need to ‘act our age,’ which sup-
It was last Thanksgiving in New York. The streets were deserted. Most people were on the plane       posedly means no more recklessness (unless its for work). We finished the bottle and I, al-
or train or already with their families on the sofa, watching TV, waiting to eat and honoring the    ready betraying our pact, suggested we go to a friend’s photography opening in Williamsburg.
Indians. It’s easy to feel like an alien on Thanksgiving if you are not American. Even if you are    Maria, more committed to healthy living than I, said she needed to get a solid night’s sleep.
American for that matter. I remember spending one Thanksgiving with my little daughters and          I went alone.
an Italo-American family in the projects at the river. After every course we took the elevator               The long opening moved quickly thanks to the open bar. By the end, the lights were
down to the parking lot to smoke.                                                                    dimmed and someone’s iPod was plugged in. All the young artists were dancing while the art
        That Thanksgiving, we were lucky that we found a restaurant that was open: Sal An-           collectors left, scandalized by the irreverent turn the once-quiet opening had taken. Thinking
thony’s Live Raw Organic Kitchen on 17th Street between Broadway and Irving Place. Sal is            ahead to my next day’s responsibilities, I decided to call it quits and headed for the door when

                                                                                                                                                                                    237
THe Words                                                                                                Time
                                                                                                                                                    Travelling
                                                                                                                                                    Japan




Time                                                                                                           worn over wheeled plimsolls.
                                                                                                             ● Rounded corners were preferred to squared ones, except on windows.



Travelling
                                                                                                             ● Robots were deliberately being made with a less human form factor in order to avoid
                                                                                                               frightening their owners by being too lifelike.
                                                                                                             ● Cars resembling perspex bubbles were, thanks to cunning indentations, horizontally


Japan
When we learned of scottish singer, writer, and
                                                                                                               stackable when a suitable locomotive was available.
                                                                                                             ● The fountain pen had made a return at the prestigious executive end of the market.
                                                                                                             ● Famous architects were being employed to design iconic kennels and cat baskets.
                                                                                                             ● All materials used in consumer products received a biodegradability rating from the
performer, Momus’ imminent release of his “book
                                                                                                               government.
of Japans,” we instantly tried to get our hands on
                                                                                                             ● A new elasticated fabric resembling silk had replaced cotton.
it. 12 idiot time travellers crawl into a calving cow
                                                                                                             ● Jeans had finally been consigned to the museum.
to see the island’s future. We’re hooked.
                                                                                                              Interesting though this list is, Sekunda eventually intervenes and asks Moore to widen
            by   Momus                                                                                the scope of his questioning to other subjects than design. Thanks to this, it’s established that in
                                                                                                      2080 no more manufacturing industry existed in Japan. The days of car- and ship-building were
        48                                                                                            long gone. Most people now either worked in the sex industry or in advertising.
Say that you gatecrashed a planning meeting in 2013, 2033, 2053 or some other year in which                   Advertising was controlled by Dentsu, whose headquarters were a tower in Ginza a
the most sacred inner sanctum of the Ise Shrine—the building housing its ancient imperial             thousand metres tall. Despite its great height, the Dentsu tower was one of the few buildings to
treasures of mirrors, swords and jewels—was scheduled to be demolished and rebuilt. Say you           survive the earthquake.
were present at a priestly planning committee referendum on a surprising proposal to rebuild                  Advertising, by 2080, had come down off the hoardings and gigantic video screens of
the sanctum in a radical new style. Say that you incurred the emperor’s gratitude by casting the      yore. It was now so interwoven with the fabric of everyday life that you could never be sure,
deciding vote against this innovative structure, and were consequently invited on the imperial        having a conversation with someone, whether he was performing a “sitcom” (situation com-
747—an understated aircraft marked on each side with a single chrysanthemum and a red sun—            mercial) or simply talking about the rainy weather and the consequent need to carry an umbrella.
to Arlanda Airport near Stockholm, where the emperor (an ichthyologist known for his research         Advertising execs and creatives were like the Stasi of East Germany; mingled into every crowd,
into the taxonomy of gobies) was shown around the Bergius Botanic Garden, had lunch with the          equipped with a million pairs of lips, eyes and ears in the form of family, friends and neighbours.
Swedish Prime Minister at the Ministry for Foreign Affairs, visited the Royal Swedish Academy                 If life in 2080s Japan wasn’t a “sitcom”, it was a porn film, a 3D webcam. You could nev-
of Sciences, then saw the exhibition “From Linnaeus to DNA” at the Swedish Museum of Natural          er be sure that an innocent gaze or an inconsequential conversation wasn’t going to be charged
History. Say that the following day the emperor attended an anniversary commemoration of Carl         to your credit card as a sexual transaction. Even a trivial chat with your wife or daughter could
Linnaeus at Uppsala University, met with Japanese and Swedish students and researchers, then          end up being billed to your cellphone as porn. Everything was metered, the idiot Malcolm
banqueted at Uppsala Castle. Say that you finally fell out with your new friend when, chatting in     Moore tells us.
the banquet hall over pear and walnut pancakes topped with fresh cream, you mistakenly identi-                There is some consternation amongst the more Fabian experts at this, but free market
fied a caecilian salamander as a newt, then compounded the gaffe by referring to both as “lizards”.   enthusiast Declan Singleton speaks up for the system.
                                                                                                              In the words of the old song, he says, free your mind and your ass will follow.
        49                                                                                                    Why should we consider it better to slave away in an admin job at a car company than
Slot, interrogating the idiot Malcolm Moore about the earthquake, has established that in 2080,       to make an honest living chatting with your husband and then billing him for the pleasure? The
amongst other things:                                                                                 tendency, over history, is for advanced societies to monetize more and more dimensions of ev-
        ● There was a vogue for bubble-shaped bow-fronted windows.                                    eryday life. We must look, from the perspective of the future, barbaric for excluding so much
        ● The colours mustard and magenta were taboo for everything except horizontally               of our so-called personal lives from commercialisation. All the evidence suggests that bringing
           striped configurations.                                                                    things into the money system makes them answer more closely to our needs, makes them more
        ● Toothpaste tubes tended to feature sans serif typefaces, in the case that romanji was       efficient and more equitably regulable. The hidden hand of rational self-interest makes it so.
           used.                                                                                              Some Fabian flicks an ink-soaked pellet of scrunched paper at the back of Singleton’s
        ● Ladies were leaning towards a seasonal interest in kimonos with padded shoulders,           head. Ink begins to drip slowly down the curved pink surface like a bead of black blood.

                                                                                                                                                                                      247
THe Words                                                                                          ping ponG review



       ping ponG review:                                                                              magically frost when you’re getting undressed, and weird polit-propaganda and other random


strawberry                                                                                            imagery flicker over unevenly scattered monitors. The staff is so polite and precise with such
                                                                                                      immaculate complexions that you want to touch them and see whether it’s genuine. I’m sure



Frizz Forever
                                                                                                      they speak exclusively in haikus. Sayonara, E

                                                                                                      On Tue, 8 Mar 2011 19:10:33 -0500, Adriano Sack wrote:
An e-mail conversation about John Galliano, Victoria                                                          Hello Eva,
Beckham, Grace coddington, the animosity to lace vs.                                                          Sounds enchanting, but you’re touching a very sensitive point in my CV, cause I’ve nev-
the fear of silk, and the blessings of a repressed sexuality.                                         er been to Japan. My little stopover was comme-il-faut: I saw Grace Coddington’s mane at Café
                                                                                                      Flore, almost bought tie-dyed Dries van Noten jeans, and discussed John Galliano. These are the
              by eva Munz / username: evvaa from new York                                             theories: 1. A person who has undergone too much plastic surgery and Botox suffers from emo-
              and Adriano sack / username: adriano from Berlin                                        tional congestion or a light form of Tourette’s syndrome. Since the face ceases to express any
                                                                                                      emotion, victims of this disorder are prone to outbursts. 2. He was burnt out, sales were poor,
On Tue, Mar 3, 2011 at 02:50 Eva Munz wrote:
                                                                                                      Haider Ackermann will replace him. 3. The whole thing at La Perle was staged. Bernard Ar-
        Dear Adriano,                                                                                 nault, the CEO of LVMH, hired the tourists who filmed Galliano’s rants. What’s your take on it?
        You have no idea how jealous I am that you’re going to Paris tomorrow. The shows!                     Seeing him sitting alone in a bar, getting drunk, losing it, while filmed by giggling by-
Spring! Unpasteurized cheese! Walking a catwalk in front of strangers would give me a heart           standers made me sad. I’m not a huge fan of his work, but I admire the pureness of his vision
attack, though. Nevertheless, I had a total fashion epiphany during New York Fashion Week.            and his willingness to make a fool of himself – aesthetically. A spread in Libération showed a
Cathy Horyn said that this was one of the lamer ones (of course she relayed her verdict more          series of his aftershow appearances (the bullfighter, the astronaut, etc.). I prefer that to the faux
subtly than that). I was totally into the experience. The 3D tangibility of a show, the bad breath    modesty of most of his colleagues who only wave shyly in their understated outfits.
of fellow journalists as they gasp at a particularly smart seam dancing in the spotlights around an           On my flight to New York, I watched the unwatchable King’s Speech and read the sur-
alabaster thigh is something unparalleled. Grace Coddington’s fabulous strawberry frizz whis-         prisingly fun new issue of Pop. “I get a massive buzz out of being completely plugged into the
pering in the front row at Calvin Klein was definitely worth braving every humiliation I experi-      world,” is one of Sir Elton John’s declarations, which I found to be self-indulgent and charm-
enced on the sidelines (don’t ask!). I can’t wait to hear about your adventures with Bless and his    ing. And since I saw him wearing the Prada banana scarf, I keep loitering around their store on
Highness Dries van Noten. By the way, I know I may be annoying you with my obsession with             Prince Street. Should I get it? Yours, Adriano
Colonel Qaddafi, but I found one of his famously extravagant outfits that was most certainly
                                                                                                      On Mar 9, 2011, at 11:24 AM, Eva Munz wrote:
inspired by the Belgian designer. Will send you pictures! Lots of love, E
                                                                                                              Bonjour Adriano,
On Wed, 2 Mar 2011 06:00:29 +0100, Adriano Sack wrote:
                                                                                                              Galliano – the lone pirate. I believe both the Tourette’s syndrome theory and the planted
        Right now the magical journey into the heart of glamour means sitting in a Berlin cab at      tourist version you offered. I also don’t really care. I think his personal style was as appalling as
5.55 AM with eurotechno blasting, hoping not to miss my plane. I’m preparing for my interview         the designs he did, soiling the good name of Christian Dior. And I find the idea of the sensitive,
with Dries. First question: I bought last seasons fabulous army shirt one size too small because      lonely, misunderstood, introvert designer such a boring cliché. Is the fall of Galliano going to be
the right size was sold out. Now I feel like a German wurst every time I wear it, beginners mis-      this year’s Alexander McQueen, the tragic fashion moment of the year? Really? Yikes!
take or real dedication? Love. A                                                                              While the people on the streets and information superhighways of the Middle East sin-
                                                                                                      gle-handedly perform regime changes at a scale and speed Condi Rice could only have dreamt
On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 5:55 PM, Eva Munz wrote:
                                                                                                      about, I find it surprising that an alcoholic designer making anti-Semitic remarks causes the
        Dear Adriano,                                                                                 whole world to gasp.
        The magical journey into the heart of glamour today means sitting in the office with a                I really wonder what it must be like to live in Israel right now – how the new Arab world
sledgehammer pounding outside. One thing is clear: it’s spring. And this season does it’s job         appears from inside that little country. It must be a feeling of lightheadedness, fear, wooziness,
even without cherry blossoms scenting the New York air. Still, I wish I were in Tokyo right           sleepless nights, light nausea, and surreal anticipation. A little bit like being in love. (wink)
now. I could walk through Yoyogi Koen Park to the Meji Shrine, make an offering, and wish                     I think the banana-scarf is an absolute must-have! It will give your outfit a sexy Jose-
for the gods to decide on matters of the heart. Afterwards, I would walk down Omotesando and          phine Baker spin without having to show too much skin.
spend the afternoon in Rem Koolhaas’ Prada flagship store, where the glass dressing room doors                Adieu, E

                                                                                                                                                                                       253
Back
   stage*
    Outfits and moments from the
   Fall/Winter 2011 shows. A style
inventory by Australian photographer
      SOnny VAndeVelde.
  Photos, looks, collections, models,
   and attitudes reviewed by some
 in-the-know users of ilikemystyle.net .




   *This section looks behind the scenes – where life and style really take off.


                                                                         257
Back
                                            Stage


The Fashion Critics Become one of the Ilikemystyle
Any thoughts about the global style circuit?
Quarterly’s critics and write shamelessly biased, pinpointedly precise,
and radically entertaining reviews for the next issue’s Backstage section.




            Gospava Todoro-         Clark Parkin,           James Valeri,
            vic, username:          username: clark         username:
            gospavaya from          from Jachenau is        jamesvaleri from
            Belgrade studies        a journalist and        new york is the
            jewelry design in       stylist. He merges      Fashion director
            Florence (her blog:     maximalism with         of Ilikemystyle
            Ramen Philosophy).      Alpine elements.        Quarterly.




           Josephine Meng,          emily Segal,            Martin Cho,
           username: josey          username:               username: bucnam
           from eisenach is         RIPyourself from        from new york is
           a fashion blogger        new york is a           a fashion designer.
           (summerlisten.com).      cultural critic. She    He writes for maga-
           She will move to         works for nadine        zines and works for
           Berlin soon.             Johnson PR.             Marc Jacobs.




                                                                                                  He’s the essence of a Muglerette,
            Sofija Gujina,          Ronnie Cheung,          Silke Wichert,                        dedicated to total body transformation.
            username: debaser       username: ronnieech     username: silkscreen                  And he’s the end of fashion. But as Mugler’s
            from Manchester         from Australia is       from Berlin is                        new creative director, nicola Formichetti,
            is the girl behind      keeping a yet-          a journalist and                      said: “It’s not so much about the clothes.”
            the fabulous blog       unpublished fashion     founder of the                                        username: clark
            jean-sol-partre.        diary (coming out       website style-
            tumblr.com.             soon).                  proofed.com.
                                                                                                      Anything Gaga wears is going to
                                                                                                      become popular anway. I’m not interested.
                                                              Mugler, Nicola Formichetti, Paris            username: ronnieech

                                                                                                                                                  259
Back
                                  Stage




  Regardless of how badly I want a pair of
  Jeremy Scott wings, that plastic bag top has to go.
                  username: ronnieech


These manic-panic rave Barbies are
ghastly, hauting me like apparitions
from some debaser acid trip.
      username:
                digi
                  Manga glamourama with Ziggy Stardust.
                  Great couple.
                        username: jamesvaleri

   I think Jeremy Scott should do
   Castelbajac. Or vice-versa.
   Or they should just join forces.
          username: clark



                                                        Jeremy Scott, New York


                                                            265
Ilikemystyle quarterly issue 5 short
Ilikemystyle quarterly issue 5 short

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Ilikemystyle quarterly issue 5 short

  • 1. the first user-generated fashion magazine i like my stYle Quarterly Cyril Duval (username: itemidem) from New York Sophisticated Summer looks Thought-Provoking Swimwear Dating Rules Updated Au/Be/De/Es/Fr/Gr/It/Nl/Port Cont: € 9.00 CH 13.50 SF UK: £8.50 Plus: 05 users of ilikemystyle.net on John Galliano, Maurizio Cattelan, 1 Terence koh, Vivienne Westwood, Nicolas Jaar, Wolfgang Tillmans, 4 191858 909006 the recent collections and their wildest nights
  • 2. Mash up Breaking down the Wall of the Unknown Arley Marks / username: amarksa from Providence and Andrew Fladeboe / username: fladeboe from New York describe a night in the woods of Conneticut. We weren’t even supposed to know where that Uzi was kept, let alone take it out of its secret drawer in the master bedroom of the house that I was the caretaker of. The desert Gallibaya I’m wearing was picked up on a cruise down the Nile I took the previous year with my out-of-town host. I was attracted to this garment named the Gallibaya, Dishda- sha or Thawb – which is a common style all over Egypt. It really changed the way that I viewed many of the general- ized Arabian images that kept popping up on the television and in the newspapers – pictures of bearded, burly looking men wearing dresses and holding massive machine guns while standing in the backs of pickup trucks. Appreciating their elements of style softened the distance between us. I am not quite sure why it felt like it was a good idea to dress up and act out this scenario in the woods of Connecticut. In retrospect, it might have been because I felt so removed from the reality of the situation in the Middle East and wanted to personalize or embody it somehow. This was our collective’s way of breaking down the wall of the unknown between the culture that had been positioned as “the enemy” and our own. P.S. Farewell to one of the worlds most amazing and mythical creatures, the now deceased Zeke. R.I.P. This image was created by Amarksa, an experimental business collaboration between Arley Marks and his sister, Annabeth Marks. Arley is currently traveling around Asia to look at television factories and electronic waste dumps. You can see more of that here www.autopsia-tv.blogspot.com. 13
  • 3. Mash Fashion up HigH PRiest in his owN tribe Joshua lieberman / username: joshua from New York on a fashion designer who cheekily interprets American history in his latest collection. Architect-turned-provocateur, Siki Im, gleamed as New York Fashion Week’s mens- wear sleeper-hit. Just on his fifth show, it’s time he received a proper introduction. “Silent Thunderbird Prayer” was neither meticulously sewn nor subtle. Nor were the crowded spectators disappointed. Siki instead brought to the fore his mastery of refer- ential aesthetics, hinting at identities collapsing over time. As the lights dimmed, the accompanying American Indian drummer and vocalist began a loud and seductive an- cient chant (Pure Moods). A draping black suit with cropped pants and feather-adorned ten-gallon hat emerged on a model wearing leather-tied braids. Merging “natives” and “cowboys,” the show began as a reflection on American empire. As neon Mohawks replaced shoddy braids, tight jeans replaced draping garments. Siki’s tribe became at once Margaret Thatcher’s punks and Queen Anne’s Iroquois, with a smart, cheeky rev- erence for tribes relegated to textbooks and street corners, Siki Im is quickly proving himself High Priest in his own tribe. sikiim.com At once Magaret Thatcher’s punks and Queen Anne’s Iroquois: images from Siki Im’s Fall/ Winter 2011 show. Ayzit Bostan, “Passport” (limited edition of 42) Flagged! eva Munz / username: evvaa from New York on a silk fanzine. Behind the rather austere title Filed Under hides an artsy gem of a project. Annahita Kamali and Florian Böhm created a kind of an analog fanzine. It is printed on 100%silk and every limited piece features work by an artist, architect, designer, scientist, or photographer. The project launches on April first. We particularly fell in love with designer Ayzit Bostan’s Turkish passport. Every month, two or three new objects will be published. Check it out: filedunder.net 17
  • 4. MaSh up Dressing Room Piracy Spring/Summer 2011 Featuring users of ilikemystyle.net from New York, Istanbul and Kopenhagen trying the looks of the season. Special guest: MarzIa aloISI (username: marzia) , a stylist and a feminist who refuses to wear high heels. When we told her that snapping those pictures in dress- ing rooms is only semi-legal, she was instantly hooked. (To be continued in the next issue. Feel free to send your piracy pictures to magazine@ilikemystyle.net) top: Marzia Aloisi (username: marzia) wears golden leather zip-up jacket and black pleated polyester skirt by Miu Miu. left: Marzia wears black leather bra and belt, polka dot silk shirt, and white pleated cotton skirt by Comme des Garçons. opposite page: Marzia wears snakeskin bolero and black leather high-waisted skirt by Azzedine Alaïa. 25
  • 5. Fashion Splish- splaSh! Nothing comes between me and my swimwear. Users of ilikemystyle.net (and some awesome models) present new looks to get wet in. Photography GraNt CorNett (username: gc), styling James Valeri, (username: jamesvaleri). JaNet Cho username: janetscho wears a vintage black one-piece swimsuit from What Comes Around Goes Around, NYC. 35
  • 6. Fashion Splish- splaSh! Brian Gallardo username: whiteboy176 wears bright orange trunks by Calvin Klein and Ilikemystyle T-shirt. 41
  • 7. Splish- splaSh! artem shCherbakov username: artem wears women’s flared black swimsuit trunks by Y-3. hair: Keiko Hamaguchi at De Facto make up: Kristin Gallegos at Community styling assistants: Colby Kelly and Marzia Aloisi 51
  • 8. Fashion blogger’s delight Fashion bloggers have conquered the front rows at fashion shows but they still travel light and cheap. Here’s the photo diary of Dustin Hanke (username: dustin) and his friends during Berlin Fashion week. The blogger apartment. Time: January 18th to January 24th Place: Friedrichstrasse, Berlin Inhabitants: Josephine Meng, username: josey, summerlisten.com Cailin Klohk, username: cailin, birdsofafeatherblog.blogspot.com Dustin Hanke, username: dustin, shiggersonstreet.com Oliver Milczarek, username: olivewonder, fashionwhisper.com Tim Schmelzer, cometothewildside.blogspot.com Julius Leon Salvenmoser, www.youngvanity.com Jennifer Zengel, jen-gossip.com We got to Berlin on January 18th with Josephine wears a sweater by Weekday, loads of baggage and shorts by Topshop, and shoes by Urban excitement. We started Outfitters. Cailin wears a taking photos right away. self-made shirt. Dustin wears boots the wind machine and hooded jacket by Virginblak was obligatory. and black jeans by Cheap Monday. 53
  • 9. blogger’s delight Cailin wears a sweat- er, skirt, and belt by Nam Nguyen and shoes by Topshop. opposite page: Oliver wears jeans by Cheap Monday and vintage shoes, jacket, and undershirt. 63
  • 10. Fashion blogger’s delight after long days running from show to show we got home, gave each other foot rubs, and went off into the night. these are my favorite pictures. 65
  • 11. FaShion personal previews Fashion in summer offers tons of options, from highly conceptual, radically eclectic, to next to nothing. Users of ilikemystyle.net show their favorite looks for Violeta Vollmer / username: vivoart from Windhoek the upcoming season. Here is my vision of summer style 2011. My partner, Wilfried Vollmer, took the two photos in December. The left one is in our backyard in Windhoek. The one on the right was shot in the Great Namib Desert, where we lived for three years. I designed all the clothes and jewelery myself. vivoart-design.com 69
  • 12. FaShion personal previews Frida wannerberger / username: featurette from London/Lund/Lausanne GuglielMo caStelli / username: skydoll from Turin The Weekdayosaurs. It’s the lookbook of a girl who seems like she’s wearing the There’s Eva (from Ilikemystyle Quareterly) in the right corner, Adriano (also from same signature look every day, with a slight variations. The variations may not the magazine) in the white dress, and me in a green dress. I see the three of us play- be expressed in her clothes, but her moods and feelings change. Sometimes she’s ing on swings. We’re all characters from a novel by Virginia Woolf clad in delicate wearing the Outofcontextosaur’s hat. It says: “Today I feel extremely out of context Prada dresses. Lady Miuccia’s SS 2011 collection is one of the most beautiful she and don’t feel like I belong with you guys.” It helps remind her that she’s herself, has ever created. I’m addicted to her styles. Every season I have to illustrate at least no matter who she’s with or what city she’s in or what she’s wearing. This image is one Prada outfit. Here it’s three happy-go-lucky muses: careless, lighthearted, and a photoshopped collage of drawings, I use eveything from markers and crayons to sublimely dressed! castelliguglielmo.blogspot.com rainbow pens. fridawannerberger.blogspot.com 73
  • 13. FaShion personal previews Mai KuMoji username: maishion from berlin I’m wearing a black hat and a white ‘Run- ning Wings’ T-shirt by H&M. The raccoon’s tail by H&M is an important SS11 item. The high-waisted 80s shorts by Topshop are also a must-have for the season. maishion.blogspot.com Marcus Luft Mai-Linh alice Huynh username: tooposhtopush from Hamburg username: addiction from Munich My favorite look? My new surgeon’s I need the sun and this vintage/selfmade gown-inspired Prada sweater with an mint green dress is just so perfect for uncomfortable collar. I ‘ve been hearing SS11! Model/styling/make-up/photogra- the phrase, “when are we moving into phy (via timer!) by Mai-Linh Alice Huynh. the theater, Doc?” quite often lately. iheartalice.blogspot.com tooposhtopush.twoday.net Giancarlo cruz username: giancinephile from Manila White has once again been a major gesture in the SS11 collections. These past few days, I’ve been obsessed with this white blazer and combining it with more neu- tral tones. I wanted a pal- pable lightness and easiness. Légèreté!!! The double- breasted blazer here is by Topman and the trousers are by Zegna Sport. The shirt is by Hugo Boss and the shoes are by Opening Ceremony. giancinephile.typepad.com 79
  • 14. FaShion hellocharles Don’t be confused; swapping is the new shopping. These Williamsburg ladies surrounding Molly STene (username: hellocharles) break roommate boundaries to create Maison Brooklyn. Photographer Alexey yurenev (username: alexey) steals candid shots of their exchanges. read the joint literary efforts on page 233. Amelia Muir (username: meow) wears bra by Forever 21. Kobi Loehr (username: rascalmclane) wears raincoat from Goodwill, Florida. Molly Stene (username: hellocharles) wears dress from Catholic Consignments, CA. 83
  • 15. FaShion hellocharles Kobi wears skirt by Holloween Adventure Shop, New York, shirt by Tucker, and raincoat from Goodwill, Florida. Molly wears bathing suit by age 7. 85
  • 16. FaShion for Sale Shop assistants are a blessing in disguise: they’ll deplete your bank account, and they’ll make you look stunning. Users of ilikmystyle.net introduce six retail authorities and their picks of the season. Pojjana Junsuvun, sales assistant at Club 21 in Bangkok, recommends stilettos by Balmain: “They were not love-at-first sight, but the second I put them on I felt a stunning transformation. They will win over your heart, especially when paired with a low-key, basic dress.” 95
  • 17. FaShion for Sale 1 2 1 2 5 3 4 3 Munich Bangkok 4 Store: Schwittenberg, Hildegardstrasse 2, schwittenberg.com Correspondent: Christopher Romberg (username: rombocombo) Store: Club 21, 494 Ploenchit Road, Salesperson: Audrey Marcie erawanbangkok.com Correspondent: Thanawat Chotronnaphat 1 Dress by Acne: “Snakeprint can be a blessing (username: kenfever) or a curse. This one is a true blessing.” Salesperson: Pojjana Junsuvun, nickname: Poj 2 Leather Top by Ayzit Bostan: “I love Ayzit Bostan for her pure and ingenious design. 1 Dress by Lanvin: “Its lively, vibrant color will This top is ingeniously sexy.” brighten your days.” 3 Shirt by Hope: “I got this for my boyfriend. 2 Skirt by Balmain: “It doesn’t look like leather He looks irresistibly cute when he wears it.” at first glance, but it really is made of leather. 4 Peep Toes by Martin Margiela: “The amaz- I love its chic design, plus a bit of gangster ing construction (half the heel is hidden in photos: rombocombo feel.” leather) makes your stiletto walk look twice 3 Poj wears bracelets of independent design. as cool as Kylie’s.” 4 Bag by Lanvin: “Cheerful, lovely, and fun 5 Dress by WoodWood: “The perfect promise with interesting material.” for a great summer. By the way, I’ll spend 5 T-Shirt by MQ: “I love the original skull print. mine in the South of France.” 5 6 Here the flower gives it a sweet edge.” 6 Audrey Marcie wears a dress by A.P.C. 97
  • 18. StOries “I’m all for a healthy, active, and interesting sex life.” Khadeja Wilkinson, username: nylonmoron “I’d love a relationship. But not a complicated one.” Kalan Briggs, username: itsKalan blind Kalan wears blue stripe shirt by BDG for Urban Outfitters, 511 twill pants by Levi’s, thunder grey suede hightops by Supra, digital dial watch, and backpack Dates Where does a Romanian man find a girl? Is being gay by Fossil. in Singapore a challenge? opposite page: Khadeja wears a Who’s paying, kissing, black bandeau body- suit by American screwing up on the first Apparel under a faux leather jacket by date? Users of ilikemystyle.net Stitches with makeup by MAC. Her perfume talk about the reality and the of choice is Hot Couture by Givenchy. potential of their love lifes. 107
  • 19. StOries blind dates your “me” time. I’m totally of the mindset love my bike! That reminds me. I haven’t that “me”- time is important. Have you checked out your pictures yet. But how do ever tried dating somewhat long distance? you feel about sending photos to someone I find that you get your “me”-time, plus you’re talking to? the time you spend together is sweeter. Khadeja: What kind of photos? Casual Toronto vs. dallas: Kalan: I haven’t. Have you? photos are no big deal... I’ve definitely ToronTo boys have Khadeja: Sure. Conveniently, my ex-boy- friend was studying in a university town sent boyfriends more interesting birthday presents when they’re far away, spontane- Freudian mOmmy iSsues a three-hour bus ride from me. So I saw ous surprises are always nice. By the same him every other weekend, spontaneous token, as a female, I totally appreciate By Khadeja WIlKInSOn (username: nylonmoron) from Toronto visits during the week, breaks, and over getting them back. What about you, huh? and Kalan BRIggS (username: itskalan) from dallas the summer. It was pretty perfect. Ever sent photos? Kalan: That sounds amazing. Kalan: Maybe it’s just different over here. Khadeja: Hey! ier what with such busy schedules. Hon- Khadeja: The relationship stayed in that I love photos in general. I’m just really Kalan: How’s it going? estly, the most success I’ve had meeting exciting “getting-to-know-you” phase for picky about my face sometimes. Yeah, I Khadeja: Pretty well, enjoying a Monday people has been online. Go figure? What a while and I was never distracted from pretty much keep a camera on me at all without class, haha. And yourself? about you? school. It was wonderful. It was a treat times. Kalan: Lucky you! I’m at work. Kalan: For some reason I don’t have much when I got to see him, instead of wanting Khadeja: I used to do photography; I al- Khadeja: Oh? Where do you work? luck meeting people online. Usually I to get away. I recommend it, but I mean, ways have cameras around, too. Although Kalan: I work for Fossil. What about you? meet people as friends of friends and we you also have to take into consideration I much prefer film to digital, film is...pric- And you’re in college? just start to hang out. I’ve noticed lately I trust issues, right? Because being far apart ey, hahaha. Khadeja: University! I’m at the University like to have a lot of time to myself to relax, can give full opportunity for cheating and Kalan: Awesome! I got my degree in pho- of Toronto, studying astrophysics. It’s im- read a book, or watch some shows, and you never know... tography. And I just made the switch to possible to date within school, haha. that doesn’t sit too well with most ladies. Kalan: Yes definitely. Trust seems to be hard film this year. I carry a Lomo LC-A+ at Kalan: Haha. How old are you? Khadeja: Haha, leaving them feeling un- to maintain even in a close relationship! all times now and I use digital as a back Khadeja: Well I just turned 21. wanted and alone? Do you think you’re Khadeja: What’s the scene like in Dallas? up. I’m in love with the quality that film Kalan: That’s pretty exciting. Why is it seeing girls who are just slightly too high Do all the trendy kids know and date each produces. You just can’t fake it. hard to date at your university? maintenance? other? It’s like that in Toronto. Everyone Khadeja: It’s so true. I was definitely Khadeja: The issue is the demographic that Kalan: I guess you could say that. It leaves graduates high-school within the same lucky, I went to an art high school. What apply to science: nerdy, socially awkward, me feeling like a bad person. I tend to five years. And it becomes this crazy city- do you think about dating other people in dorky - and not really in the endearing keep away from dating for the moment. wide thing where you can’t hook up with the art scene? way - and I don’t quite fit in. Not saying I wouldn’t like to, though. anyone without everyone knowing and Kalan: I think it could be fun. I have yet to Kalan: Gotcha, that makes sense. But there Maybe the girls I find most attractive are that person having dated three of your date someone who’s also into art. My last has to be a few people who have your in- too much maintenance for me. I’d like to friends. It’s terrible and makes trust very girlfriend was much more into sports. terest right? think I’m a pretty simple person. complicated. Khadeja: I do the same! My boyfriends are Khadeja: Not that I’ve discovered. I find Khadeja: I feel like that’s the motto of Kalan: I wouldn’t say we have many trendy all jocks. And the only artsy guy I dated, I’m more attracted to the TAs and the most boys I know, haha. people. Oops. But we are home of the TV was secretly artsy and openly a jock, ha! profs than anything, haha. Kalan: Haha. Hey! I’d love a relationship. show called Cheaters. That can’t be good. Kalan: Wow, a closet artist. That’s too fun- Kalan: Nice. Older people can be quite at- But not a complicated one. An honest one. Khadeja: Haha. I know, I was surprised ny. What was your longest relationship? tractive. What would be your ideal way to I feel like I have to second-guess what when I saw your photos, and then saw you Khadeja: The closet artist, actually. We meet someone? girls really mean when they say some- were from Texas! You fit right in with the dated for about two years, and he was Khadeja: I don’t know really. I would love thing. And that’s no fun. west end Toronto kids and all their trendy from Vancouver. to meet someone through school, which Khadeja: I don’t think you should have to attire, especially with a bike. Kalan: Nice, what happened with that? would make seeing that person much eas- feel like a bad person just because you like Kalan: Thanks, you’re too kind. Oh how I Khadeja: Well. He was too old for me. My 109
  • 20. StOries blind dates “all these way too perfect boys... I prefer them with natural defects.” margaux Salgado, username: mllemargaux Margaux wears a flower print skirt by Hurwundeki, t-shirt by Sud Express, candy apple pumps by Marc by Marc Jacob, silver necklace by Dior, self-designed pearl necklace, Everlong mascara and Touche Éclat by Yves Saint Laurent, face powder “Romanian by Georgia Benefit and eyeliner by Isa- girls don’t have Dora. Her perfume of choice is Viva la Juicy that Victorian by Juicy Couture. opposite page: approach to sex.” Mihaela wears black leopard t-shirt by mihaela joe, username: ThingsWelove Stella McCartney. 117
  • 21. stories The real Cyril French artist, Cyril Duval (username: itemidem), takes appropriation art very seriously: it’s carefully composed and hysterically executed. photo: Keetja Allard JoaChim Bessing (username: jbessing) takes a peek into In 2007 Cyril went to Art Basel Miami for the first time. He was his ubiquitious, invited on a one-day press trip (i.e. private plane) in the Turks & Caicos to visit a soon-to-open (never happened!), starchitect- ever-expanding designed, 6 star private island resort for billionaires. Perpetually travelogue/lookbook. photo: Megumi Matsubara traveling with funny props from Japan (here faux braces, moustache and a vocoder microphone), he also scored a caterpillar inflatable – the same one Jeff Koons used in his Popeye series according to Jean Pigozzi, the notorious art collector who was also present on the trip. opposite page: This is the first installment of a genre Cyril created with his Tokyo clique. They call it “advertisement pantomime.” Here he is mimicking a notorious Japanese actor drinking beer. 125
  • 22. stories I saw Cyril for the first time in three weeks at the opening night of Pierrot Lunaire – a rather obscure opera composed by Arnold Schoenberg, directed by Bruce LaBruce and costume de- signed by Zaldy, who’s designed for Lady Gaga as well as the late Michael Jackson – scanning the crowded foyer of the old but beautiful the- atre Hebbel am Ufer on a very very cold night in Berlin. I recognized his mother first. He had sent an email to a selective group of friends that morning stating that his mother would appear clad in white from head to toe. The email, how- ever, lacked any mention of his own outfit. The slim, moustachioed guy wearing Le Corbusier- style glasses in a black Christian Dior suit and a very wide, checkered shirt – also in white and black – was definitely him. I recognized him by the shoes. They were golden Louis Vuitton lace-ups. He wore that very pair the first time we met, also in Berlin, only a year ago (the defining moment of the night made it into the “Remem- ber How You Lost It”-spread of Ilikemystyle Quarterly’s second issue). Since then, I’ve seen Cyril a few thousand times, to give a rough es- timate. On Facebook. And he rarely looks the same twice. That night, I could decipher his appear- ance as a result of his function within Mr. La- Bruce’s production team. The theater’s brochure listed him as Art Director under his nom de This is self-explanatory. Cyril shot this in his first apartment in Tokyo, it was quite simple! opposite page: Some people relate Cyril to “appro- priation art.” But he believes it’s better to embrace his consistant body of references. He claims that photo: Paul Sepuya he doesn’t steal or appropriate, rather he evokes and sometimes comments on. “Nazi Milk” is an image originally created by the art collective General Idea, one of his central references. Cyril isn’t interested in novelty at all cost; he just grabs the ingredients he needs wherever he finds them. 127
  • 23. stories The real Cyril plume, Item Idem. So the round, dark rimmed glasses made sense. As soon as the curtain was lifted, it was very clear that the stage was de- signed mainly in stark reference to German Expressionist black and white movies à la The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari, and that Cyril’s black and white outfit paid homage to that period. I’d like not to refer to that tiny, exquisite animal with the beautiful, roll-out tongue and intriguing, cone-shaped eyes that has the unique capacity of adapting its look to whatever surface it’s placed upon. That would be too obvious, plus it would be missing the point. Cyril did not wear the suit, moustache, shirt, and glasses to disappear. He wore this outfit to complement the general mood of the occasion. When the German designers, Bless, asked him to run their Berlin showroom for a month (running it literally meant living there, photo: Hiroshi Manaka photo: Mote Sinabel This is the first poodle Cyril ever worked with. Here the canine teaches him some Warholian battle strategies in his first Tokyo space, Carniche Courage. photo: Simon Castets opposite page top: Cyril modeling as an architect for a fashion story he directed for Tokion Magazine. opposite page bottom: Bernhard Willhelm gave him this samurai armor, which he wore at the opening of the 2009 Venice Biennial. 129
  • 24. StOries Delirious Phnom Penh The capital emboies the brief period in history when Cambodia was all love, hope, dreams and songs. Eva Munz (username: evvaa) on the visionary modernist architect, vann MOlyvann. How a nation’s dreams get built – and buried. The Theatre Bassac shortly before it was torn down in 2008. It lies near a branch of the Mekong River. Molyvann designed it to look like a steam boat. 141
  • 25. Delirious Phnom Penh Molyvann’s public housing project was shaped like a friendly waving hand. Today it feels more like the heart of darkness and is engulfed in trash. 155
  • 26. stories That night I understood that friends are more important and they last forever. I saw Rome in a different way. Eleonora Carisi / username: joujou from Turin more on page 160 Remember where you lost it This issue’s verdict: successful party nights require good company and excellent music but lead to surprisingly little sex. Users of ilikemystyle.net on their nocturnal adventures. 157
  • 27. stories REmember where You LoSt it In Disco God by WE Trust MaTina TRiantafillou / username: matan from Athens Skull Bar, Athens, Greece at the Yes it Does Where? Sure it Does Party (Yid Sid). What were they wearing? There wasn’t a dress code. What were you wearing? A Beverly Hills T-shirt, hot pants, my new custom made black low-cut boots with metal studs, Diamond by Armani perfume, makeup by Korres, and Estée Lauder silver jewelry. What was special about that night? Every Yid Sid Party is special because of the guests and the music they curate. Soundtrack? Anthony and The Camp – “What I Like” (Totally addicted to this track!). Other people? People I didn’t know, but wanted to meet. Transportation? Taxi. Drink/Stimulation? Lots of rum! Highlight? Lots of flirting! Sex? Well I didn’t have sex with the one I wanted, but… Sleep? I slept from six in the morning till two in the afternoon. 163
  • 28. stories REmember where You LoSt it I Quit SMoking, by noT DAncing Fatima Poblador / username: fatz96 from Manila Where? 32nd Street in Manila at The Fort for FLUXXE Thursdays. Who were the most important people? Everyone! Topics? Got there too drunk to even talk! What were you wearing? A vintage, lace bolero, a black belt with floral print, and bleached jeans by Mango. I wore a fragrance by Tommy Hilfiger and some cosmetics my sister sent me from the States. What was special? FLUXXE! – a party that used to be every Thursday. Too bad it only happens occasionally now. Soundtrack? I was so drunk that night that I honestly can’t recall any special song that stuck in my head. The DJs usually play “Paris feat. Au Revoir Sim- one (Aeroplane remix)” by Friendly Fires, “Paris is Burning” by Ladyhawke, “Special” by Mew, Rosin Murphy, MGMT, and a lot of 80’s punk rock and pop. Well, yeah you get the picture. The tracks played at FLUXXE aren’t the usual club songs here in Manila. Other people? Models, DJs, local fashion designers, foreigners, lovely gay friends, indie chicks, artists. Dancing, talking, exchanging numbers, getting drunk and probably doing some coke?! Transportation? Took a cab with a friend, I think. Drink/Stimulation? Lots of alcohol and Valium. Marlboro Lights (but I’ve quit smoking by now). Highlight? Me dancing on top of the speakers and not giving a fuck! 173
  • 29. KUltur kriTik directions artDoes fashion rip off art? Are artists just designers in bad outfits? The similarities and differences between the two worlds generate intrigue. Users of ilikemystyle.net meet and interact with some masterpieces. Cheating StatUe from Berlin JanA Galinowski / username: missjana Here I’m enacting a One-Minute-Sculpture at the Kunstbau Lenbachhaus in Munich in 2010. It was an installation by the artist, Erwin Wurm. Apart from static sculptures, like the car in the background, there were two platforms. One had two chairs with which the visitors themselves could become sculptures for one minute. Wurm gave instructions on how to hold the chairs. It felt stupid, but was still a lot of fun. I had not seen anything by Erwin Wurm before. Generally I am not very interested in sculpture or performance art – but I like the idea of art that doesn’t take Jana wears jeans and itself too seriously. I also like art that does not keep the spectators at a distance, which is why I cardigan by H&M, shirt by COS, and happily stepped on the platform to pose with the chair. Maybe I cheated a bit, as I couldn’t hold sneakers by Adidas. the pose for an entire minute. 177
  • 30. KUltur kriTik HAil to the Sheep SeleNe Mauvis / username: selene from Geneva This picture was taken the evening before a presentation at art school. I was trying to figure out how to present this sheep so I placed it on the ladder. As a commentary about fashion, I decided to do a tribute to the sheep. It gives us wool and also leather for jackets. The sheep is a really cool ‘animal god.’ I love it! That night, I dreamed I was in a field with a lot of sheep and as I stood in front of the sun, they thought I was their god. The Artist aS A Pampered PeT Mark Jan Krayenhoff van de Leur / username: MKNYC from New York I was walking down 8th Avenue in Chelsea, New York, when a young woman approached me and introduced herself as Tracey Mancenido, half of the photographer couple, Tribble and Man- cenido. She asked if I was interested in having my photograph taken. I took her card and looked at their website, liked what I saw, and agreed to do it. I always enjoy having my portrait taken because I get to see different sides of myself. I think I know what I look like – I see myself in the mirror every morning – but I always see something different when someone photographs me. They wanted to photograph me in my home, so they came over to my apartment with photo: Tribble & Mancenido their lights and equipment and set to work. In the background you see a large painting titled “P photo: Tribble&Mancenido is for Poodle.” It’s a self-portrait of my husband, AA Bronson, and his two former partners in Mark wears customized the art collective, General Idea, dressed as poodles. They chose the image of the poodle to il- jeans by artist, Erik lustrate how they saw the place of the artist in contemporary society – as pampered, decorative Hanson, shirt by Comme des Garçons, and sits pets who exist at the mercy of collectors and patrons. “Those who live to please must please to on a Wink chair by live,” they declared. Toshiyuki Kita. 179
  • 31. KUltur art kriTik directiOns The MArtyrdom of Jean-Charles Cornay etienne DesCloux / username: etienne from Berlin Danh Vo, L’artiste et le décorateur, Galerie Daniel Buchholz, Cologne, 28 May - 22 August 2010 There are three distinct works of art in this photo. I. An ottoman made of mahogany with maple intarsia, upholstered in Pompeian red moiré, from Berlin 1825. II. A painting by an unknown Vietnamese artist depicting the martyrdom of Jean-Charles Cornay, who was cut into pieces on 20 September 1837, entitled “Martyre du Bienheureux Charles Cornay, M.E.P., coupé en morceaux au Tonkin, le 20 Septembre 1837.” It’s from the collection of the Missions-Étrangère, Paris, printed on silk chiffon. III. White glazed tiles, each screen printed with a plant detail in red (RAL 3200 & Pan- tone warm-red-c). The prints are from a list of flowers discovered by the French missionary, Jean-André Soulié, in southern China and Tibet: Aconitum souliei, inflorescence portion; Lilium souliei, outer and inner tepel; Anemone coelestina var. souliei, flowering plant; Rosa soulieana, fruit; Aconitum souliei, cauline leaf; Anemone coelestina, basal leaf; Anemone coelestina, car- pel; Luzula rufescens, flowering plant; Anconitum souliei, upper cauline leaf; Anemone coeles- tina, basal leaf; Anemone coelestina, flowering plant; Rosa soulieana, fruiting branch; Lilium souliei, distal portion of flowering plant; Nepeta souliei, flowering plant; Rosa soulieana, flow- ering branch; Cerasus fruticosa, fruiting branch; Cerasus tomentosa var. souliei, fruiting branch. In 1905, a conflict arose between Tibet and China. Caught by the Tibetan monks at Batang while trying to escape, Soulié was tortured for fifteen days and then shot. Etienne wears pleated IV. Through the door is a bathroom imagined in consultation with the architect Etienne pants by BLESS N°23 Descloux PE-P. and desert boots by Clarks. 181
  • 32. kulturkritik clOSe- DiStraction from MOtherhood HellOdeeder from Huntington Beach upS Style reflects the person it belongs by Mark Holgate to, but how does it Of course, the first thought when you see this image is: Has anyone alerted social services yet?! hold up under a It’s the depiction of motherhood that interests me here, not so much Hellodeeder’s look, which magnifying glass? is as insistently 1970s as anything Giorgio Moroder recorded back in the day, very appropri- Industry authorities ate given that the plunge front white dress and dusky pink-beige satin sandals are very Donna [Summer, not Karan] in her Munich/Ariola years. That said, I do love the eyebrows; circumflex review the users punctuation between the round oversized glasses and the turban-like head wrap. But in the end, of ilikemystyle.net . it’s the kid that stays in the mind with this picture. Even in its amateurish way, it evokes a kind of Helmut Newton-like DISTRACTION FROM the act of motherhood – it’s the creation of a hot new look that holds the attention, not the result of procreation – and it slyly gives a nod to modern celebrity mothers, who accumulate kids the way movie stars used to collect diamonds. It’s a whole other interpretation of Madonna and child. Mark Holgate is the Fashion News Director at Vogue 195
  • 33. Stories In Purgatory Bella lieBerBerg (username: bellalieb) started shooting green rooms to capture the environment where musicians chill before, and party after their concerts; where they warm up their voices, entertain their groupies, and relax or excite themselves by Bryan Ferry Berlin, Tempodrom any means necessary. 12:02am lyrics, voices, and It’s a luxurious green room for this legend. I grew up with melodies are her “More Than This” and “Let’s Stick Together,” and when I inspiration. every saw his room, it felt so perfect. The furnishings were all deep room sings a song. red for a man, a lover, a genius. Even so, he didn’t spend that much time backstage and disap- peared right after the show. 203
  • 34. Stories The Frattelies Berlin, Kesselhaus 03:21am I had to wait a long time until they went on, but it was a great show. I love the intimate size of the venue, Kesselhaus. You can really connect with the artists on stage. It’s an “entry stage” for smaller bands. You may meet them in a couple years in a far-off stratosphere, without empty bags of chips in their undersized green room. 205
  • 35. KUltur kriTik School ofii:Fashion vol. dries van noten What to read, watch, grow, and wear to become a bulletproof style expert. AdriAno SAcK (username: Adriano) talks with Belgian fashion designer drieS vAn noTen about his vast list of references. Detail from Dries Van Noten’s Fall/Winter 2011 collection. All photos except for the portrait taken by Sonny Vandefelde 213
  • 36. KUltur kriTik Dries Van Noten in his studio in Antwerp. Dries Van Noten’s F/W 2011 Women’s Collection was presented in Paris at the Hotel de Ville in one of those gigantic, lushly decorated halls the city offers in abundance. The show began with some electronic grumbling, the echo of iconic guitar chords and, later, David Bowie sing- ing about being a temporary hero. The original 1977 track had been remixed, amplifying the pureness and drama of Bowie’s youthful voice. After his show – rich in patterns, colors, fabrics; spirited, yet focused – Mr. Van Noten, a 52 year-old gentleman, rubbed elbows while his partner and their dog stood by. The atmosphere was decidedly un-hysterical. When I sat down with him the next day in his Paris office, he was friendly and attentive, emoting a polite dash of let’s-get-this-over-with. The sales seem to be going nicely, the re- views have been mixed, he acknowledged: “It’s easier to start with the next collection if people weren’t too excited about the previous one. Otherwise the expectations get bigger and bigger, which can be a bit scary.” A major catalyst of the Belgian design wave in 1988 — along with Ann Demeulemeester, Walter von Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs, Dirk van Saene, and Marina Yee – Mr. Van Noten had his moments, both brilliant and moderate. Never selling his name, he has stayed true to his vision and established his individual interpretation of chic. That is, when fashion made its most recent switch from minimalism to wealth (in color, vibrancy, emotion), he seemed to have anticipated it all along. But, for being a legend he’s rather relaxed. Art ● Francis Bacon ● Russian Constructivists ● Jef Verheyen ● Rubens ● Van Eyck ● the Flemish masters ● Bronzino Your runways have always been in conversation with the work of artists, most notably the Belgian fluxus painter, Jef Verheyen. What other art do you draw from? I look at things and translate them into garments and fabrics and patterns. I saw a Fran- cis Bacon exhibition in London. The sheer amount of works was overwhelming. I was
  • 37. THe Words 4 LiFe changers 4 LiFe changers encounters with, impressions of, Italian and has a hoarse voice, like he has happily lived outside law for quite some time. We were ordering a lukewarm red soup, when Patti Smith came in. Tangled hair, funny coat, sneak- ers, jeans, mostly black, nothing from this century. The hair fell into her face like on the album cover of Wave. I felt my heart beating. Since I meet stars professionally all the time, usually the performances by... opposite happens when I see them: I get drugged with fatigue. Recently in Rome I asked Javier Bardem if the beach was the best location to pick up girls and his PR person threw me out. I ... Yves saint LAurent never had a poster of Patti up on the wall, but when I am in need of a name for a heroine in my by cordula reyer / username: cordula from Los Angeles books, I always want to call them Patti. Now, after Franzen’s unforgettable Patty Berglund, I can’t – obviously. I whispered to my friend that it was Patti Smith. We conducted a mock con- Following the advice of my friend Helmut Lang, and since I was trying hard to impress him, I versation while she waited for her food. Take out vegan pizza! Any minute she would be gone. ran around Paris trying get booked at another fashion show. I wanted to tell her so badly that... I couldn’t think of anything to say. She was looking in her I wore his Demel dress to all of my castings: black with a turtleneck, long sleeves, knee pocket for change. “The time is now! The time is now.” I was fifteen and hated my parents for length; it had some pleats around the shoulders and from the waist down. It was cotton jersey, being nice when I was listening to Horses. Why should I tell her that? She left the restaurant. sexy, and comfortable. I wore it for weeks – hand-washing and blow-drying it at night so I could I was disappointed. Why did she have to buy lunch on Thanksgiving? Why wasn’t she served wear it again the next day. The dress got plenty of compliments, but I didn’t book another show. like the greatest rock singer she is apart from my friend Kelly Britton? It had looked as if she It was truly frustrating. My last casting was for Yves Saint Laurent. While waiting to go in, my was cold. My friend acted as if he understood. I did not care what he was thinking. Suddenly the model friend whispered, “If you don’t wear red lipstick, they wont even look at you.” door opened and she came back. She must have forgotten something. My friend said something I smeared some on without looking in a mirror and entered the sacred YSL halls. YSL but I couldn’t hear him. I turned around, went over to her and heard my own voice: “I love your was a big deal. Everyone wanted to do the show and suddenly I got so nervous, I could barely music. I have always loved it. I am so grateful. Please never stop making music.” She looked move my neck. It felt like I was entering another world. Red curtains, red velvet sofas, mirrors, like Franzen’s Patty, like someone’s unremarkable mom. And then she smiled. “Thank you!” flowers in heavy crystal vases, and a French bulldog snoring on the red carpet. Beautiful, kind ladies with red lipstick bustling around. Now it was my turn. Lulu de la Falaise came to talk to me and look at my photographs. She impressed me with her elegance and curiosity and made me ... Kenny scharf feel at ease with her natural warmth and kindness. After a few minutes, she disappeared through by Joshua LieBerman / username: joshua from new York a door, telling me to wait. She returned with a man in a white work coat, whom she had to drag out to see me. Growing old sucks. Or at least that’s what I thought until I met Kenny Scharf who – now in his It was Monsieur Saint Laurent. He was so shy he could barely look at me. When he early fifties – still parties just as hard as anyone else at Le Bain. For me, Kenny’s work has al- finally did, he came closer, kissed me on the neck and whispered: comme vous etes belles. That ways evoked the memory of his post-pop partner-in-crime, and my favorite artist, Keith Haring, season, I did two shows. One for Helmut Lang, a friend, and the other for the kindest man I ever who died twenty years ago; the association had always been a morbid, depressing one. I was met: Mister Yves Saint Laurent. startled to see him on the dance floor, camouflaged in a sea of youthful excitation, but then it clicked: no matter how old you get and no matter how many losses you experience, life is simply too short to ever stop partying your ass off. ... patti smiTh Earlier that night, I was sharing some wine with Maria (username: urbanviking). We by Kristin rübesamen / username: Kristinberlin from Berlin ranted on and on about the pains and responsibilities of being 21 in New York. We insincerely swore off hangovers and long nights, and decided we both need to ‘act our age,’ which sup- It was last Thanksgiving in New York. The streets were deserted. Most people were on the plane posedly means no more recklessness (unless its for work). We finished the bottle and I, al- or train or already with their families on the sofa, watching TV, waiting to eat and honoring the ready betraying our pact, suggested we go to a friend’s photography opening in Williamsburg. Indians. It’s easy to feel like an alien on Thanksgiving if you are not American. Even if you are Maria, more committed to healthy living than I, said she needed to get a solid night’s sleep. American for that matter. I remember spending one Thanksgiving with my little daughters and I went alone. an Italo-American family in the projects at the river. After every course we took the elevator The long opening moved quickly thanks to the open bar. By the end, the lights were down to the parking lot to smoke. dimmed and someone’s iPod was plugged in. All the young artists were dancing while the art That Thanksgiving, we were lucky that we found a restaurant that was open: Sal An- collectors left, scandalized by the irreverent turn the once-quiet opening had taken. Thinking thony’s Live Raw Organic Kitchen on 17th Street between Broadway and Irving Place. Sal is ahead to my next day’s responsibilities, I decided to call it quits and headed for the door when 237
  • 38. THe Words Time Travelling Japan Time worn over wheeled plimsolls. ● Rounded corners were preferred to squared ones, except on windows. Travelling ● Robots were deliberately being made with a less human form factor in order to avoid frightening their owners by being too lifelike. ● Cars resembling perspex bubbles were, thanks to cunning indentations, horizontally Japan When we learned of scottish singer, writer, and stackable when a suitable locomotive was available. ● The fountain pen had made a return at the prestigious executive end of the market. ● Famous architects were being employed to design iconic kennels and cat baskets. ● All materials used in consumer products received a biodegradability rating from the performer, Momus’ imminent release of his “book government. of Japans,” we instantly tried to get our hands on ● A new elasticated fabric resembling silk had replaced cotton. it. 12 idiot time travellers crawl into a calving cow ● Jeans had finally been consigned to the museum. to see the island’s future. We’re hooked. Interesting though this list is, Sekunda eventually intervenes and asks Moore to widen by Momus the scope of his questioning to other subjects than design. Thanks to this, it’s established that in 2080 no more manufacturing industry existed in Japan. The days of car- and ship-building were 48 long gone. Most people now either worked in the sex industry or in advertising. Say that you gatecrashed a planning meeting in 2013, 2033, 2053 or some other year in which Advertising was controlled by Dentsu, whose headquarters were a tower in Ginza a the most sacred inner sanctum of the Ise Shrine—the building housing its ancient imperial thousand metres tall. Despite its great height, the Dentsu tower was one of the few buildings to treasures of mirrors, swords and jewels—was scheduled to be demolished and rebuilt. Say you survive the earthquake. were present at a priestly planning committee referendum on a surprising proposal to rebuild Advertising, by 2080, had come down off the hoardings and gigantic video screens of the sanctum in a radical new style. Say that you incurred the emperor’s gratitude by casting the yore. It was now so interwoven with the fabric of everyday life that you could never be sure, deciding vote against this innovative structure, and were consequently invited on the imperial having a conversation with someone, whether he was performing a “sitcom” (situation com- 747—an understated aircraft marked on each side with a single chrysanthemum and a red sun— mercial) or simply talking about the rainy weather and the consequent need to carry an umbrella. to Arlanda Airport near Stockholm, where the emperor (an ichthyologist known for his research Advertising execs and creatives were like the Stasi of East Germany; mingled into every crowd, into the taxonomy of gobies) was shown around the Bergius Botanic Garden, had lunch with the equipped with a million pairs of lips, eyes and ears in the form of family, friends and neighbours. Swedish Prime Minister at the Ministry for Foreign Affairs, visited the Royal Swedish Academy If life in 2080s Japan wasn’t a “sitcom”, it was a porn film, a 3D webcam. You could nev- of Sciences, then saw the exhibition “From Linnaeus to DNA” at the Swedish Museum of Natural er be sure that an innocent gaze or an inconsequential conversation wasn’t going to be charged History. Say that the following day the emperor attended an anniversary commemoration of Carl to your credit card as a sexual transaction. Even a trivial chat with your wife or daughter could Linnaeus at Uppsala University, met with Japanese and Swedish students and researchers, then end up being billed to your cellphone as porn. Everything was metered, the idiot Malcolm banqueted at Uppsala Castle. Say that you finally fell out with your new friend when, chatting in Moore tells us. the banquet hall over pear and walnut pancakes topped with fresh cream, you mistakenly identi- There is some consternation amongst the more Fabian experts at this, but free market fied a caecilian salamander as a newt, then compounded the gaffe by referring to both as “lizards”. enthusiast Declan Singleton speaks up for the system. In the words of the old song, he says, free your mind and your ass will follow. 49 Why should we consider it better to slave away in an admin job at a car company than Slot, interrogating the idiot Malcolm Moore about the earthquake, has established that in 2080, to make an honest living chatting with your husband and then billing him for the pleasure? The amongst other things: tendency, over history, is for advanced societies to monetize more and more dimensions of ev- ● There was a vogue for bubble-shaped bow-fronted windows. eryday life. We must look, from the perspective of the future, barbaric for excluding so much ● The colours mustard and magenta were taboo for everything except horizontally of our so-called personal lives from commercialisation. All the evidence suggests that bringing striped configurations. things into the money system makes them answer more closely to our needs, makes them more ● Toothpaste tubes tended to feature sans serif typefaces, in the case that romanji was efficient and more equitably regulable. The hidden hand of rational self-interest makes it so. used. Some Fabian flicks an ink-soaked pellet of scrunched paper at the back of Singleton’s ● Ladies were leaning towards a seasonal interest in kimonos with padded shoulders, head. Ink begins to drip slowly down the curved pink surface like a bead of black blood. 247
  • 39. THe Words ping ponG review ping ponG review: magically frost when you’re getting undressed, and weird polit-propaganda and other random strawberry imagery flicker over unevenly scattered monitors. The staff is so polite and precise with such immaculate complexions that you want to touch them and see whether it’s genuine. I’m sure Frizz Forever they speak exclusively in haikus. Sayonara, E On Tue, 8 Mar 2011 19:10:33 -0500, Adriano Sack wrote: An e-mail conversation about John Galliano, Victoria Hello Eva, Beckham, Grace coddington, the animosity to lace vs. Sounds enchanting, but you’re touching a very sensitive point in my CV, cause I’ve nev- the fear of silk, and the blessings of a repressed sexuality. er been to Japan. My little stopover was comme-il-faut: I saw Grace Coddington’s mane at Café Flore, almost bought tie-dyed Dries van Noten jeans, and discussed John Galliano. These are the by eva Munz / username: evvaa from new York theories: 1. A person who has undergone too much plastic surgery and Botox suffers from emo- and Adriano sack / username: adriano from Berlin tional congestion or a light form of Tourette’s syndrome. Since the face ceases to express any emotion, victims of this disorder are prone to outbursts. 2. He was burnt out, sales were poor, On Tue, Mar 3, 2011 at 02:50 Eva Munz wrote: Haider Ackermann will replace him. 3. The whole thing at La Perle was staged. Bernard Ar- Dear Adriano, nault, the CEO of LVMH, hired the tourists who filmed Galliano’s rants. What’s your take on it? You have no idea how jealous I am that you’re going to Paris tomorrow. The shows! Seeing him sitting alone in a bar, getting drunk, losing it, while filmed by giggling by- Spring! Unpasteurized cheese! Walking a catwalk in front of strangers would give me a heart standers made me sad. I’m not a huge fan of his work, but I admire the pureness of his vision attack, though. Nevertheless, I had a total fashion epiphany during New York Fashion Week. and his willingness to make a fool of himself – aesthetically. A spread in Libération showed a Cathy Horyn said that this was one of the lamer ones (of course she relayed her verdict more series of his aftershow appearances (the bullfighter, the astronaut, etc.). I prefer that to the faux subtly than that). I was totally into the experience. The 3D tangibility of a show, the bad breath modesty of most of his colleagues who only wave shyly in their understated outfits. of fellow journalists as they gasp at a particularly smart seam dancing in the spotlights around an On my flight to New York, I watched the unwatchable King’s Speech and read the sur- alabaster thigh is something unparalleled. Grace Coddington’s fabulous strawberry frizz whis- prisingly fun new issue of Pop. “I get a massive buzz out of being completely plugged into the pering in the front row at Calvin Klein was definitely worth braving every humiliation I experi- world,” is one of Sir Elton John’s declarations, which I found to be self-indulgent and charm- enced on the sidelines (don’t ask!). I can’t wait to hear about your adventures with Bless and his ing. And since I saw him wearing the Prada banana scarf, I keep loitering around their store on Highness Dries van Noten. By the way, I know I may be annoying you with my obsession with Prince Street. Should I get it? Yours, Adriano Colonel Qaddafi, but I found one of his famously extravagant outfits that was most certainly On Mar 9, 2011, at 11:24 AM, Eva Munz wrote: inspired by the Belgian designer. Will send you pictures! Lots of love, E Bonjour Adriano, On Wed, 2 Mar 2011 06:00:29 +0100, Adriano Sack wrote: Galliano – the lone pirate. I believe both the Tourette’s syndrome theory and the planted Right now the magical journey into the heart of glamour means sitting in a Berlin cab at tourist version you offered. I also don’t really care. I think his personal style was as appalling as 5.55 AM with eurotechno blasting, hoping not to miss my plane. I’m preparing for my interview the designs he did, soiling the good name of Christian Dior. And I find the idea of the sensitive, with Dries. First question: I bought last seasons fabulous army shirt one size too small because lonely, misunderstood, introvert designer such a boring cliché. Is the fall of Galliano going to be the right size was sold out. Now I feel like a German wurst every time I wear it, beginners mis- this year’s Alexander McQueen, the tragic fashion moment of the year? Really? Yikes! take or real dedication? Love. A While the people on the streets and information superhighways of the Middle East sin- gle-handedly perform regime changes at a scale and speed Condi Rice could only have dreamt On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 5:55 PM, Eva Munz wrote: about, I find it surprising that an alcoholic designer making anti-Semitic remarks causes the Dear Adriano, whole world to gasp. The magical journey into the heart of glamour today means sitting in the office with a I really wonder what it must be like to live in Israel right now – how the new Arab world sledgehammer pounding outside. One thing is clear: it’s spring. And this season does it’s job appears from inside that little country. It must be a feeling of lightheadedness, fear, wooziness, even without cherry blossoms scenting the New York air. Still, I wish I were in Tokyo right sleepless nights, light nausea, and surreal anticipation. A little bit like being in love. (wink) now. I could walk through Yoyogi Koen Park to the Meji Shrine, make an offering, and wish I think the banana-scarf is an absolute must-have! It will give your outfit a sexy Jose- for the gods to decide on matters of the heart. Afterwards, I would walk down Omotesando and phine Baker spin without having to show too much skin. spend the afternoon in Rem Koolhaas’ Prada flagship store, where the glass dressing room doors Adieu, E 253
  • 40. Back stage* Outfits and moments from the Fall/Winter 2011 shows. A style inventory by Australian photographer SOnny VAndeVelde. Photos, looks, collections, models, and attitudes reviewed by some in-the-know users of ilikemystyle.net . *This section looks behind the scenes – where life and style really take off. 257
  • 41. Back Stage The Fashion Critics Become one of the Ilikemystyle Any thoughts about the global style circuit? Quarterly’s critics and write shamelessly biased, pinpointedly precise, and radically entertaining reviews for the next issue’s Backstage section. Gospava Todoro- Clark Parkin, James Valeri, vic, username: username: clark username: gospavaya from from Jachenau is jamesvaleri from Belgrade studies a journalist and new york is the jewelry design in stylist. He merges Fashion director Florence (her blog: maximalism with of Ilikemystyle Ramen Philosophy). Alpine elements. Quarterly. Josephine Meng, emily Segal, Martin Cho, username: josey username: username: bucnam from eisenach is RIPyourself from from new york is a fashion blogger new york is a a fashion designer. (summerlisten.com). cultural critic. She He writes for maga- She will move to works for nadine zines and works for Berlin soon. Johnson PR. Marc Jacobs. He’s the essence of a Muglerette, Sofija Gujina, Ronnie Cheung, Silke Wichert, dedicated to total body transformation. username: debaser username: ronnieech username: silkscreen And he’s the end of fashion. But as Mugler’s from Manchester from Australia is from Berlin is new creative director, nicola Formichetti, is the girl behind keeping a yet- a journalist and said: “It’s not so much about the clothes.” the fabulous blog unpublished fashion founder of the username: clark jean-sol-partre. diary (coming out website style- tumblr.com. soon). proofed.com. Anything Gaga wears is going to become popular anway. I’m not interested. Mugler, Nicola Formichetti, Paris username: ronnieech 259
  • 42. Back Stage Regardless of how badly I want a pair of Jeremy Scott wings, that plastic bag top has to go. username: ronnieech These manic-panic rave Barbies are ghastly, hauting me like apparitions from some debaser acid trip. username: digi Manga glamourama with Ziggy Stardust. Great couple. username: jamesvaleri I think Jeremy Scott should do Castelbajac. Or vice-versa. Or they should just join forces. username: clark Jeremy Scott, New York 265