www.la-residence-hue.com Read more about La Residence Hotel & Spa Hue and its restaurant in this feature here!

1. Words Muriel Amable Photographs Muriel Amable, The Nam Hai & La Residence Recipe & photograph The Nam Hai
Kitchen
of
VietnamEating my way through foodie paradise in Central Vietnam
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2. B
ack in my university days,
whenever my parents sensed
school was getting too much
for me to handle, they would
suggest that I visit my sister who works
in Vietnam. I suppose it was a blessing
in disguise that I didn’t get an internship
during my second year, as it led me to
having one of the best summer breaks
I’ve ever had.
“Chao anh, lam on can mot xe taxi
Mai Linh. Em thich di tram xe buyt di
Dalat. Cam on Anh.” As briefed by my
sister during our Skype conversation the
night before, I showed this in writing
to a security guard as I exited Ho Chi
Minh City’s Tan Son Nhat International
Airport. The man directed me towards
the direction of taxi touts I was told to
ignore; they edged closer but thankfully
I spotted a white taxi with the green
Mai Linh label I looked up on Google.
I quickly approached the uniformed
dispatcher and handed him the paper.
His furrowed eyebrows eased as he read
it and gestured for me to wait.
Several thousand dong and a
harrowing taxi ride later, I finally arrived
at the bus station. Wandering around
the backpackers’ district, I spotted locals
tucking into a bowl of noodles at the end
of the street.
It was in that
shop, with
my very first
bowl of pho,
that my love
affair with
Vietnamese
cuisine began. As cheesy as it may
sound, it was truly love at first slurp.
However, it wasn’t until my fifth visit
that I managed to explore and discover
the nuanced, understated beauty of
Central Vietnam: Danang’s long stretch
of pristine beach, Hoi An’s colonial
charm and Hue’s imperial history – it
instantly became my favourite part of
Vietnam. Don’t even get me started
on the food. According to our guide in
Hue’s Citadel, it was commonplace for
emperors to have numerous concubines;
we were told the late Emperor Minh
Manh had over 500 ladies fighting
for his attention!
You’re probably
wondering why I’m
sharing such an
extraneous fact, but
you see, there were
a number of ways
for the concubines
to "win" the emperor’s attention and
time, one of which was whipping up a
new dish. So if one were to compare the
number of dishes by region, the North
and the South’s combined would pale
in comparison with the specialties that
originated from Central Vietnam.
" ... the North and the
South’s combined would
pale in comparison with the
specialties that originated
from Central Vietnam. "
A SNEAK
PEEK INTO
HUE’S
KITCHEN
Huyen Anh
What I like about small eateries in
Vietnam is that even though they
only make a dish or two, they do them
really, really well. Take Huyen Anh
for an instance, which specialises in
grilled pork. I’ve been fortunate enough
to be introduced to this place by my
new friend Lan, probably the nicest
Vietnamese person I’ve ever met. If you
have trouble finding this restaurant, let
your nose lead the way and follow the
saliva-inducing aromas wafting down
the street.
The grilled pork can be enjoyed
two ways: wrapped in fresh rice paper
with vegetables (banh uot) or with
rice noodles, herbs and a lip-smacking
peanut sauce (bun thit nuong). Lan
shared that locals often order the grilled
pork by itself as it pairs well with beer.
The place only opens till 7pm or until
the items are sold out, so be sure to
head here for lunch instead so you don't
leave disappointed.
52/1 Kim Long. Tel: 84/54-352-5655
Le Parfum
Here’s one that does not close too
early and will not disappoint. This
exquisite restaurant set within Hue’s La
Residence Hotel & Spa prides itself in
using the very best of Vietnam’s fresh
and vibrant produce combined with top
quality imported specialty ingredients.
La Parfum dishes out both European
and contemporary Vietnamese dishes,
including stomach-friendly versions of
grilled pork rice noodles (VND 200,000/
S$12, bun thit heo nuong) and generously
filled Vietnamese deep fried pork or
prawn spring rolls (VND185,000/S$11),
available during lunch. Take note that
the salad portions are huge and will
more than qualify to be a main; we liked
the grilled chicken breast salad with
sautéed apple curry (VND255,000/S$15).
Take your meal outside to the lovely
courtyard, if weather permits.
As the hotel takes on a more
entrancing demeanour after sunset,
the menu also sees a dainty transition
into the dinner selection, with Western
and Vietnamese cuisines divided into
sections for easier reference. Leave it to
the chefs and opt for the La Residence
Special Dégustation Menu, perfect
for the uninitiated and for those
who love surprises (and good wine),
VND3,950,000/S$233 for two, inclusive
of wine pairing.
Level 1, La Résidence Hôtel & Spa, 5 Le
Loi Street, Hue City. Tel: 84/54-3837-475
www.la-residence-hue.com/restaurants-
bars/le-parfum
Daily, 6 to 10am, 11:30am to 11pm
Cau Truong Tien
(Truong Tien Bridge)
Banh Mi
If craving for a late night snack, head
to the Truong Tien bridge for dirt
cheap banh mis. For only VND7,000
(S$0.50), you’ll get a baguette filled
with sweet pork slices, minced meat,
paté, herbs, cucumber slices and chilli.
Other toppings such as Cowhead
cheese and sausage can be added on,
but the regular banh mi had more
than enough filling for us.
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3. Ba Le Well
It’s no secret that for the real taste of any
cuisine, one must go where the locals
eat. After spending the first half of the
day exploring Hindu temple ruins in
My Son – another UNESCO World
Heritage Site in Central Vietnam, we
were getting hungry. On our way back,
we asked our tour guide to share with
us his favourite places to eat in Hoi
An. We settled on Ba Le Well as his
recommendation came with a special
clause: “If it’s not nice, don’t pay and give
me a call.”
A plate of grilled pork (thit nuong)
coated in sesame seeds came with rice
paper, a basket of herbs and vegetables,
several bowls of delicious peanut sauce,
A TASTE
OF HOI AN
sweet chilli plus another bowl of pickled
cabbage, carrots and cucumber. While
everyone was busy trying to squeeze
as many items in their customised
thit nuong rolls, another plate of the
most addictive deep fried spring rolls
(ram cuon) arrived. I’ve had better rice
pancakes (banh xeo) before, but if you
like it eggy, then Ba Le Well’s version
might just tickle your fancy.
The servers will fill your table with
items, but you only have to pay for
what you consume – we spent about
VND100,000 (S$6) for two. Needless to
say, there was no need to call the guide,
as this nondescript eatery, tucked in a
lane off the main road, is a keeper. Try
to get seats outside so you can watch
the mountain of spring rolls form and
observe how bahn xeos are made.
45/51 Tran Hung Dao St., Hoi An Town.
Tel: 84/510-3864-443
The Cargo Club
Restaurant and
Hoi An Patisserie
After strolling around the quaint ancient
town of Hoi An after lunch, retreat from
the stifling heat and head to The Cargo
Club Restaurant and Hoi An Patisserie
by the river. To be honest, it was the big
cake display that caught my attention.
And when I found out that they served
iced Vietnamese coffee, plenty of cakes
and offered free Wi-Fi, I was sold.
Unfortunately the chocolate louver
(VND42,000, S$2.50) cake I was talked
into trying did not impress me; a
little too much mousse for my liking.
Instead, what I really liked was my
friend’s lemongrass coconut ice cream
(VND25,000, S$1.50); it was like a creamy
blanket of refreshing tropical flavours on
the palate. I can’t speak much about the
Western and Vietnamese fare they have
to offer, but all I know is I can eat this ice
cream in this colonial building all day –
a good book, optional.
107/109 Nguyen Thai Hoc Hoi An.
Tel: 54/510-3911-227
www.restaurant-hoian.com
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4. After a long day of gallivanting
around Hoi An, one of the best places
to wind down and have a decadent meal
(and a massage) is still at The Nam Hai.
There are two restaurants here: The
Beach Restaurant serves traditional
Vietnamese after sunset and The
Restaurant for authentic grilled Indian
and familiar Western favourites. If you
can’t decide, the staff will be more than
happy to arrange your order from the
other restaurant and bring it to your
table. We also had the opportunity to
visit the resort’s expansive organic
garden from which fresh herbs and
vegetables are harvested and used
across all the kitchens in the resort.
The Beach Restaurant
Situated by the palm fringed pool with
a view of the ocean and an endless
horizon, The Beach Restaurant is where
you can feast on the freshest seafood,
grills and traditional Vietnamese fare,
and be serenaded by traditional music.
It is one of my favourite places to have
a romantic meal with a loved one or
with a bunch of foodie friends.
You should try at least one salad
here (or make one, see recipe for lotus
La Residence Hotel
& Spa
Formerly the governor’s residence in
the 1920s, Hue City’s La Residence
Hotel & Spa sits on the banks of the
Perfume River overlooking the Citadel
and the river. Great efforts have been
taken to preserve the charm, comfort
and atmosphere of a classic colonial
villa in all of the boutique hotel’s rooms
and suites. The hotel is located in the
very centre of the city and is only 10
minutes away by taxi from the Citadel
(15 minutes by cyclo). Other amenities
include a salt water outdoor swimming
pool, pool bar, art gallery, the award
winning Le Spa, as well as cooking
classes and tailor made tour packages.
5 Le Loi Street, Hue City
Tel: 85/543-837-475
www.la-residence-hue.com
ACCOMMODATION
The Nam Hai
Designed with serenity in mind,
The Nam Hai is the epitome of paradise
set amid the picturesque landscape of
the East Sea with an unspoilt stretch
of white sand beach. The resort offers
60 luxurious villas and 40 pool villas
with landscaped gardens and stunning
views of Hoi An Beach. Look forward
to impeccable hospitality and service,
plentiful gastronomic options and a most
relaxing massage at The Spa at The Nam
Hai’s tranquil spa. Other recreational
facilities include a health club by the
basketball and tennis courts, three
expansive pools and a kids activity villa.
The resort is located 30 minutes away
from Danang Airport and 10 minutes
from Hoi An town (complimentary
shuttle buses are available).
The Nam Hai, Hamlet 1, Dien Duong
Village, Dien Ban District, Quang Nam
Province. Tel: 84/510-394-0000
www.thenamhai.com
root salad on p96), I can’t decide whether
I prefer the green papaya salad or
the banana flower salad – both were
delicious. Don’t miss Hoi An’s specialty,
cau lau, a bowl of steaming rice noodle
soup with chillies and a most succulent
and flavourful pork, and also try the
steamed fish in banana leaf with lotus
seed and herbs – a great way to sample
the freshest fish caught by the resort’s
fishermen neighbours.
If you’re here before sunset, The
Beach Restaurant is your comfort food
haven; think moreish pizzas and juicy
burgers, perfect after a stroll or a dip in
the Ha My beach right in front of it.
The Nam Hai, Hamlet 1, Dien Duong
Village, Dien Ban District, Quang Nam
Province. Tel: 84/510-394-0000
Daily, 11am-5:30pm, 6 to 11pm
(except Mondays)
The Restaurant
The Restaurant is The Nam Hai’s
signature dining room – elegant with
high ceilings, and overlooking the
water gardens and the East Sea. The
Restaurant’s Eastern and Western buffet
spread for breakfast is so extensive, it’s
got your lunch covered too. Opt for the
shaded wooden shacks outdoors so you
can stretch your legs on your way to the
buffet spread and perhaps give serious
thought to that last round of pain au
chocolats and Danish pastries.
Come nightfall, the restaurant
transforms into a lustrous and dimly lit
room, and the buffet line is superseded
for an open kitchen. If craving for Indian
cuisine, the lamb shank vindaloo,
butter chicken and garlic naan here
should solve that instantly. To me,
the char-grilled rib eye steak, cooked
to perfection, was the highlight of
the night. Leave some space for the
lemongrass and whole milk panna cotta,
served with mango salad and lemon
grass jam, for the perfect ending.
The tipple thirsty would also be glad
to know that the restaurant's wine cellar
boasts one of the largest collections in
Vietnam with over 6000 new and old
world wines.
The Nam Hai, Hamlet 1, Dien Duong
Village, Dien Ban District, Quang Nam
Province. Tel: 84/510-394-0000
Daily, 7-10:30am, 6-10pm
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5. GETTINGTHERE
SilkAirrecentlyintroduced
additionalflightstoDanang
andnowfliessixtimesweekly
flightsonMondays,Tuesdays,
Wednesdays,Fridays,Saturdays
andSundays.All-inreturnfares
onSilkAirfromS$408,check
silkair.comforpromofares.
GettingAround
ComparedtoHanoiandHoChi
Minh’straffic,CentralVietnam’s
isabreeze.HoiAncanbe
exploredonfootonceyou’re
inthecitycentre.Ifyourhotel
isnotinthevicinity,checkfor
complimentarytransport.
Alternatively,requestfora
meteredtaxifromthehotel;
flagdownfaresaverageat
VND10,000(S$0.60).InHue,
charteredtransportationwould
beabetterwaytogettothe
sights,butmeteredtaxiscan
easilybearranged.
Currency
Itishelpfultotravelwithamix
ofVietnamesedongandUS
dollars.Mostshopsandcafes
acceptbothcurrencies.
10,000VND=S$0.60,RM1.50
andUS$0.50
Climate
ThebesttimetovisitCentral
VietnamisfromJanuaryto
August,soastoavoidthe
wetmonsoonmonths.That
said,there’snorulingoutthe
occasionalshower.◆
Lotus root salad
with prawns, red
chilli & ginger
Serves 4 ● Prep 20min + 3hrs
soaking ● No Cook
100ml vinegar
1 tbsp sugar
480g lotus root, cleaned and sliced
120g prawns, peeled, deveined
and steamed
20g red chillies, julienned
20g coriander, chopped
80g carrots, julienned
20g ginger, julienned
40g onion, thinly sliced
fried shallots, for garnishing
roasted peanuts, for garnishing
For the sauce
20g fish sauce
80g lime juice
8g sugar
1 ) Combine the vinegar and sugar. Soak
the sliced lotus roots in the mixture for
at least 3 hrs.
2 ) Combine the ingredients for the
sauce, stirring until the sugar is
dissolved. Set aside.
3 ) Remove the lotus slices, squeezing
them dry in your palm. Discard the juice.
Arrange the slices in a salad bowl.
4 ) Add all the remaining ingredients,
except the shallots and peanuts, into the
bowl and toss gently to combine.
5 ) Drizzle over the sauce and adjust
seasoning to taste with salt and pepper.
6 ) Garnish with fried shallots and
roasted peanuts, and then serve
immediately.
TipAddgrilledporkslicesfora
Vietnamesetouch.
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