pattern making

1. TERMINOLOGIES in TERMS of PATTERNMAKING
• APEX: The point of a Dart. Also called Vanishing point in
draping.
• BLOCKING: Pulling or stretching the muslin to produce a
perfectly perpendicular cross grain to the length grain.
• BODICE: The portion of the garment generally from the
shoulder to the waist.
• BUST LINE: The line around the fullest part of the bust.
• CROSS MARKS: Markings along seam lines and pattern
intersection used for matching garment parts.
• DRAPING: A three-dimensional method of developing a
pattern by applying and fitting muslin on a dress form.
• DRAFTING: A two-dimensional method of developing a
drawing of a garment on pattern paper; based on
measurements.

2. • EASE: Extra measurement allowed for movement.
• FLAT PATTERN: A pattern developed through the manipulation of drafted
block/sloper.
• FLAT SKETCH: Technical sketch of a garment in two dimensions with all seam,
dart, design detail and style lines clearly.
• HIP LINE: A line, parallel to the floor, that indicates the fullest measurements
below the waist.
• JOG: The line that is obtained when a dart is closed and a tracing wheel is run
along the dart intake.
• NOTCHES: Pattern indicators that aid in the matching of seams. Double
notches are used on back patterns to differentiate the front from the back. It
generally indicates the following-
a) Seam allowance. b) Tucks at edges
c) Gather control. d) Dart legs.
e) Identification of front (one notch) and back (two notches).
f) Identification of joining parts.
• PUNCH/ CIRCLES : Indicates following-
a) Dart point b) Tucks c) Buttonholes/ buttons
d) Pocket placement e) Applique placement

3. • PIVOT METHOD: The block/sloper is rotated, from a marked
position towards a designated guideline during pattern
development.
• SEAM ALLOWENCE: The margin that runs around the edges of the
pattern. it is the extra fabric allowed in order to sew garment pieces
together. It protects the stitches from fraying.
Common Seam allowances:
¼”: Enclosed seams: Facing, Collar, Cuffs
½”: Side seam, Shoulder seam, Princess seam
¾”: Centre Back seam
1”: Seams for fittings, Hemlines
• SLASH and SPREAD: The method used to introduce fullness into an
area of a pattern.
• SLOPER: The master pattern obtained through draping or drafting
methods.
• TRUEING: Drawing in seam lines once the muslin is marked and
taken off the dress form during Draping.
• WAISTLINE: The narrow area of the torso. It is the dividing line
between the bodice and the skirt.

4. PATTERN SYMBOLS
LENGTH GRAIN CROSS GRAIN
CENTER BACK
LENGTH GRAIN
CUT ON FOLD
CROSS MARK NOTCHES
SIDE SEAM NUMBERS OF PIECES
CUT IN FABRIC
SHIFTING
LINES
CENTER FRONT
CF CB SS
CUT
CUT 2
1 _ _ _ _ _ _
1/2”
With SCISSORS
With NOTCHER

5. LABELLING of A PATTERN
1. GRAIN LINE: Always draw grain line
through the length of each pattern
piece.
2. PATTERN PART: Identify by name (for example front or back
bodice, sleeve, collar, pocket etc).
3. STYLE NUMBER: Identify number used to code the pattern set.
4. PATTERN SIZE: Record specific size on each pattern.
5. NUMBER OF PIECES: Identify number of total pieces of
patterns for that particular style.
6. CUT SYMBOL: To identify the number of pieces cut in fabric; of
that particular part of pattern piece (e.g. CUT ).1

6. DRAFTING THE SKIRT FROM MEASUREMENT
Measuring the Dress Form:
C.F. Length:
Measure from
Waist tape to the
desired length at
C.F.
Waist to Hip
level: Measure
8” down from
waist tape at
C.F. Place a pin
at that point.
Hip Circumference: Pin the
tape around dress form
keeping it level with floor.
The distance from waist line
to the hip line at the C.B. will
be less than 8”.
Waist
Circumference:
Measure around
the narrowest
area of the dress
form.
1/2 the Hip: Measure the C.F.
to C.B. on the taped line.