Babc burgundy seminar_slide_share_2015

BURGUNDY
FROM NORTH TO SOUTH
with:
William Fèvre, Bouchard Père & Fils,
and Villa Ponciago

PARIS
Beaune
Lyon
Chablis
CHABLIS REGION
CÔTE DE NUITS
CÔTE
DE BEAUNE
CÔTE
CHALONNAISE
CÔTE
MÂCONNAISE
Dijon
Chablis
Beaune
Burgundy and its five vineyards
Burgundy
BURGUNDY
• Continental Climate
• Northern Latitude
• High rainfall
• Susceptible to hailstorms
2

Burgundy
THE MONKS
6th century: Grégoire de Tours (538-594), bishop and historian,
compared the quality of the wines from the slopes to the west of
Dijon to Falernum (a wine famous in Antiquity).
7th century: Emergence of the monasteries.
8th century: Charlemagne encouraged the establishment of the
monasteries through gifts of vineyards, resulting in the emergence
of state-of-the-art viticultural work.
12th century: The cistercian monks were searching for perfection:
beginning of the construction of the Clos de Vougeot and its winery,
the most modern in the world.
THE POWERFUL
14th century: The Dukes of Burgundy put fear into the kings of
France and the princes of Europe, the wines of Beaune were served
at the official court dinners.
1395: Ordinance of Philippe le Hardi which banished the Gamay
grape variety from the Beaune region in favour of Pinot Noir, and
which prohibited the use of manures prejudicial to the quality of the
wines.
15th century: first official recognition of viticultural Burgundy:
1416: Decree of King Charles VI "The wines called Wines of
Burgundy are those produced above the Pont de Sens, as well as
those in the Pays de l'Auxerrois and the Pays de Beaune."
THE OBSERVERS
16th century: Olivier de Serres - agronomist (1539-1619): notes in
1660 that "the climate, soil and grape variety are the foundation of
the vineyard".
18th century: Abbot Tainturier in 1763, then Dom Denise,
demonstrated the role of the natural milieu and terroir.
Dismantling of the Clos following the French Revolution.
Emergence in the 19th century of a commercial bourgeoisie that
developed the wine trade in France and abroad, relying on the
reputation of certain established named parcels.
1831 with Doctor Morelot,
1855 with Doctor Lavalle:
birth of the wine hierarchy as a result of their observations.
1861: First official classification of the wines from every region of
the Côte-d'Or.
Gradual setting up of the appellations contrôlées during the 1930s -
the continuation of this long work of observation.
THIS SYSTEM IS STILL IN
PLACE TODAY
BURGUNDY
3

Burgundy
TODAY
2015: Burgundy (Côte d’Or) named a UNESCO World Heritage site.
2013: Burgundy suffers a string of low yielding vintages: 2010-2013.
2011: New appellation Coteaux Bourguignons announced, includes entire
region (with Beaujolais) allows for wines to be made from 1 or more of any of
the authorized varieties: Aligoté, Chardonnay, Melon, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris for
whites; for reds, the principal varieties are Gamay, Pinot Noir.
2010: One of smallest harvests on record since 1997, also one of the highest
quality.
BURGUNDY
4

A proliferation of terroirs
Originality of the vineyard
Terroirs exist thanks to the
combination of several natural and
human elements in a given
geographical location
A TERROIR
= AN APPELLATION
= A WINE
CLIMATE
VINE SOIL
NATURE
TOPOGRAPHYMAN
BURGUNDY
5

Competitive Set
THE TERROIR : THE LAND IN BURGUNDY
6

THE TERROIR : THE PLACE IN BURGUNDY
7

CLAY, FOR STRUCTURE AND POWER.
LIMESTONE, FOR FINESSE AND ELEGANCE.
8

CHABLIS: WILLIAM FÈVRE
History of the vineyards
• The history of wine-making in Chablis goes back to 865 AD with the
development of vineyards by the monks of Saint-Martin-de-Tours on
slopes facing the Serein River that cuts through that village.
• At that time and for the centuries that followed, the Chablis wine trade
grew substantially thanks to the waterways that made it possible to
supply Paris from Auxerre.
• With the French Revolution, estates changed hands but remained
successful, and the total vineyard surface area reached 38,000 hectares.
• The end of the 19th century saw the coming of phylloxera in 1887, which
wreaked havoc and reduced the vineyards to almost nothing.
• It was only at the beginning of the 1950s, when the Chablis vineyard
surface area was less than 400 hectares, that Chablis wine production
took off again with the growth of mechanization and setting up of anti-
frost systems (another plague for the wines of the region).
• The current productive vineyard surface area is 4,580 hectares.
9

Appellations
CHABLIS
GRAND CRU
CHABLIS
PREMIER CRU
CHABLIS
PETIT CHABLIS
CHABLIS
10

Originality of vineyards
- A semi-continental climactic zone marked by strong
temperature fluctuations
- the marriage between Chardonnay, (one of the most
noble of all grape varieties), and the Kimmeridgian subsoil,
• Kimmeridgian : thin marly limestone containing shellfish
fossils (esp. exogyra virgula)
• Soil : mixture of the weathered sub-soil and fragments of
Portlandian hard limestone
• A unique formation perfectly suited to the Chardonnay
grape
• Marl brings power and fruit and the limestone, finesse
and minerality
11

Viticulture & Vinfication
- Vines mostly trained to double Guyot.
- There is some mechanical harvesting (not at WILLIAM FÈVRE).
- Vinfication is predominantly stainless steel, generally less oaked
than Cote d’Or wines. The proportion of oak use generally
increases as you move up the quality spectrum.
-Chablis musts have to be fermented in the commune of Chablis
only.
-Wines Produced in Chablis AC:
• St. Bris (Sauvignon Blanc)
• Irancy (red)
• Petit Chablis
• Chablis
• Chablis Premier Cru
• Chablis Grand Cru
13

• Founded in 1959 by William Fèvre, the estate was purchased by Maisons &
Domaines Henriot in 1998.
• 51 hectares of William Fèvre’s estate has been farmed organically since
2006, with the balance 27ha of new vineyards acquired in early 2015
undergoing organic conversion.
• William Fèvre owns 15.9 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards and the largest
array of Grands Crus (15.2 hectares) vineyards in Chablis.
14

15
• Located on “historical” terroirs, dating from before the extension of the vineyard areas
that occurred in the 1970’s, the William Fèvre Domaine is at the very heart of the
Chablis vineyards.
• The Grands Crus are the pinnacle of Chablis production. Spread out over only 100
hectares, from a single hillside, there are 7 Grands Crus: Les Clos, Les Preuses,
Vaudésir, Valmur, Bougros, Grenouilles and Blanchot. William Fèvre produces these
seven Chablis Grands Crus that illustrate all the Domaine’s know-how, with purity,
intensity, and aromatic delicacy.
15

16
TASTING CHABLIS: WILLIAM FÈVRE
Appellation: AC Chablis Premier Cru
Fermentation: pressing of the grapes in a pneumatic press, settling of the
juice. Alcoholic fermentation : 40 to 50% in 4 to 5 years old French oak barrels,
the remainder in small stainless steel vats.
Ageing: aging on fines lees. 40 % in 4 to 5 years old French oak barrels, the
remainder in small stainless steel vats until racking in February. Further aging
in stainless steel vats until bottling.
Appellation: AC Chablis Grand Cru
Fermentation: pressing of the grapes in a pneumatic press, settling of the
juice. Alcoholic fermentation: 50 to 60% in 4 to 5 years old French oak barrels,
the remainder in small stainless steel vats.
Ageing: aging on fines lees. 60 % in 4 to 5 years old French oak barrels, the
remainder in small stainless steel vats until racking in March. Further aging in
stainless steel vats until bottling.

17
An economically divided vineyard
Over the generations and successive inheritances, the domaines were increasingly
divided up. Today several owners share the same appellation.
LE MONTRACHET
8 hectares = 14 owners
Bouchard Père & Fils owns 0,89 ha (11% of the total appellation surface)
BURGUNDY

18
CÔTE D’OR: BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS
VITICULTURE & VINIFICATION:
• Pinot Noir & Chardonnay used almost exclusively;
Gamay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris for Passetoutgrains
and Coteaux Bourguignons (very small quantities).
• Clonal selection of Pinot Noir is especially important,
single Guyot training is most common, mechanical
harvesting is quite rare.
• Whole bunch press can used in part, depending on
vintage (reds only), fermentation often in open top
vats for about 14-21 days depending on the producer.
Ageing always in French oak, typically for 11-24
months, with Grand Crus seeing the longest oak
ageing.
• New oak often used for Grand Crus and riper vintages,
proportions are linked to producer style, Côte de
Beaune whites can be barrel-fermented – premier and
grand crus often are.

19
CÔTE DE NUITS: BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS
• The vines of the Côte de Nuits and
Hautes Côtes de Nuits stretch over
20km from north to south. This
area is the center for the region’s
red Grands Crus.
• Between Dijon and Corgoloin, the
wines grow along a narrow strip of
hillside that is around 20km long
and in parts, just 200 meters wide.
• Protected from the worst of the
rain by the escarpment, hail is a
frequent problem.
• Soils are limestone base with a
mixed soil containing a high
proportion of marl.

20
Côte d'Or: Nord - Côte de Nuits
GRANDS CRUS
PREMIERS CRUS
VILLAGE
APPELLATIONS
REGIONAL
APPELLATIONS FIXIN
GEVREY CHAMBERTIN
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY
PREMEAUX-PRISSEY
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES
VOSNE-ROMANEE
,
VOUGEOT
MOREY-SAINT-DENIS
MARSANNAY-
LA-CÔTE
Essentially red wines:
n Structured and tannic
(Gevrey-Chambertin, Nuits-Saint-Georges)
Ageing potential: Very good
n Distinguished and elegant
(Vosne-Romanée, Chambolle-Musigny)
BURGUNDY

21
CÔTE DE NUITS: BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS
KEY VILLAGES:
 Gevrey Chambertin: Musclar, pruny, firm, spicy, dark
garnet color
• Key Grands Crus: (9 total) Chambertin,
Chambertin-Clos de Bèze, Charmes-Chambertin,
Chapelle-Chambertin, Griotte-Chambertin, Mazis-
Chambertin
 Chambolle Musigny: perfumed, delicate, roses, violets
• Grands Crus: (2 total) Le Musigny, Les Bonnes Mares
 Vosne Romanée: opulent, elegant, violets, cream, iron fist
in velvet glove
• Key Grands Crus: (6 total) Romanée-Conti, La
Romanée, La Tâche, Richebourg, Romanée-Saint-
Vivant
 Nuits St. Georges: earthy, tannic, meaty, muscular, black
cherry, chocolate
• No Grands Crus

22
TASTING THE CÔTE DE NUITS:
BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS
Appellation: AC Gevrey Chambertin
Fermentation: The grapes are 66% de-stemmed, pre-
fermentation maceration for 3 days, then extractive
maceration during 2 and a half weeks with punching-down.
Total vatting time 17 days.
Ageing: In French oak (Allier 33%, Nevers 33%, Vosges 34%)
with 32% new, the rest second and third use.

BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS: THE
DOMAINE
23
• Bouchard Père & Fils are the largest landowners in the Côte d’Or with over
130 hectares of vineyards, 12 of them are Grands Crus and 74 Premiers
Crus.
• Founded in 1731 by Michel Bouchard in Volnay, the firm was acquired by
the Henriot family in 1995; who have undertaken significant investments
in viticulture and vinification.
• Headquartered in the Château de Beaune, a 15th century former fortress
where today millions of bottles rest in the cellars, including a rare
collection of pre-phylloxera wines.
• The entire domaine is farmed sustainably, with a growing portion farmed
organically with an eye to convert the whole domaine in the future.

BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS: THE DOMAINE
24
• 10 grands crus for a total surface of 12 hectares:
• The smallest: Bâtard-Montrachet (white grand cru)
• The largest: Le Corton (red grand cru)
• 28 premiers crus for a total surface of 74 hectares:
• The smallest: Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers (red
premier cru)
• The largest: Savigny-Lès-Beaune Les Lavières (red
premier cru)
• 44 hectares in village and regional appellations.
• The total surface of the domaine consists of 130 hectares in
the heart of the Côte-d'Or: 130 parcels spread out in 580
sub-parcels located in 17 different villages. The estate is
about 45% farmed organically, with the goal to increase
organic farming across the entire domaine.
The Story of Montrachet
The Seigneur of Montrachet
set off on a crusade,
entrusting his virgin
daughter to his favorite
Chevalier (knight).
In his absence, what
happened, happened, and a
child was born illegitimately.
On his return from the
Crusades, the Seigneur
discovered this Bâtard
(bastard), who started to cry
when he saw him. The
Seigneur then said: “Criots-
Bâtard!” (The bastard
cries!).
But he was a good man, and
welcomed the child into the
family with these words:
“Bienvenues-Bâtard-
Montrachet” (Welcome,
Bastard of Montrachet).

25
CÔTE DE BEAUNE: BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS
• Between Ladoix-Serrigny and the hillsides of the
Maranges, the Côte de Beaune winegrowing region
covers 20km from north to south.
• Facing the morning sun, these vineyards are never
more than a few hundred meters wide.
• Around the town of Beaune, the vineyards are
mainly planted with Pinot Noir, although the
Chardonnay grape produces a few marvels on the
Corton hill. From Meursault onwards, the
Chardonnay grape dominates.
• Limestone based soil with fragmented limestone
often found in white wine vineyards.
• Only 1 red Grand Cru exists, but this is the land of
superlative whites and top-performing premier
crus reds.

26
Côte d'Or: Sud - Côte de Beaune
GRANDS CRUS
PREMIERS CRUS
VILLAGE
APPELLATIONS
REGIONAL
APPELLATIONS
CHASSAGNE –
MONTRACHET
BEAUNE
PULIGNY –
MONTRACHET
MEURSAULT
MONTHELIE
,VOLNAY
POMMARD
CHOREY-
LES-BEAUNE
LADOIX-
SERRIGNY
PERNAND
VERGELESSES
ALOXE-
CORTON
SAVIGNY-
LES-BEAUNE
AUXEY-
DURESSES
SAINT-ROMAIN
SAINT-AUBIN
SANTENAY
DEZIZE-
LES-MARANGES
SAMPIGNY-
LES-MARANGES
CHEILLY-
LES-MARANGES
Red wines :
n Fine and elegant (Beaune, Savigny-Lès-Beaune,
Volnay)
Ageing potential: Good
n Full-bodied and powerful (Pommard,
Aloxe-Corton)
White wines:
n Round and mellow (Meursault)
n Powerful and racy (Chassagne-Montrachet,
Puligny-Montrachet, Aloxe-Corton)
Ageing potential: Very Good
Production in the Côte d'Or : 2/3 red wines, 1/3 white wines
BURGUNDY

27
WHITE KEY VILLAGES:
 Puligny Montrachet: crisp acid, marked minerality, zesty,
focused, lean
• Grands Crus: (4 total) Montrachet, Bienvenues-
Bâtard-Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet and
Chevalier-Montrachet
 Chassagne Montrachet: sits in between fatter Meursault
and leaner Puligny Montrachet – earthy, broad-
shouldered
• Grands Crus: (3 total) Montrachet, Bâtard-
Montrachet and Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet
 Meursault: fat texture, full-bodied, nutty (almonds,
marzipan), buttery
• No Grands Crus, Key Premier Crus: (19 total)
Charmes, Perrières, Genevrières, Les Gouttes d’Or

28
TASTING THE CÔTE DE BEAUNE WHITES:
Appellation: AC Meursault
Fermentation: Cold settled after 24 hours, the must starts
fermentation in thermo-regulated tanks. One week after
beginning alcoholic fermentation placed into oak barrels for
the end of fermentation.
Ageing: In French oak (Allier 60%, Nevers 40%) with 10% new,
the rest second and third use.
Appellation: AC Puligny Montrachet
Ageing: In French oak (Allier 50%, Nevers 50%) with 12% new,
the rest second and third use.

29
RED KEY VILLAGES:
 Pommard: outlier in the Côte de Beaune with clay soils,
fat, muscular
• Key Premier Crus: (27 total) Les Rugiens, Les
Épenots, Les Pézerolles
 Aloxe Corton: savory, meaty, perfumed, dark color
• Grands Crus: (1 total) Le Corton
 Volnay: aromatically intense, fragrant, elegant, perfumed
• Key Premier Crus: (30 total) Clos de la Barre, Les
Caillerets, Clos des Chênes, Volnay-Santenots
 Savigny les Beaune: strawberry scented, delicate, elegant
• Key Premier Crus (22 total): Les Vergelesses, Les
Lavières, Les Marconnets

30
TASTING THE CÔTE DE BEAUNE REDS:
Appellation: AC Beaune Premier Cru
Fermentation: The grapes are 80% de-stemmed, pre-fermentation
maceration for 3-4 days, then extractive maceration during 3 weeks
with punching-down. Total vatting time 15 days.
Ageing: In French oak (Allier 20% + Troncais 25% Nevers 35% + Vosges
20%) with 25% new, the rest second and third use.
Appellation: AC Pommard Premier Cru
maceration for 3-4 days, then extractive maceration during 3 weeks
with punching-down. Total vatting time 17 days.
Ageing: In French oak (Allier, Nevers, Vosges) with 35% new, the rest
second and third use.
Appellation: AC Le Corton Grand Cru
maceration for 4 days , then extractive maceration for 3 weeks with
punching-down, total vatting 11 days.
Ageing: In French oak (Allier 30%, Nevers 30%, Vosges 40%) with 45%
new, the rest second and third use.

31
Côte Chalonnaise
PREMIERS CRUS
VILLAGE
APPELLATIONS
REGIONAL
APPELLATIONS
BOUZERON
RULLY
MERCUREY
GIVRY
MONTAGNY
Essentially red wines:
n Fruity and full-bodied
(Mercurey, Givry)
Some white wines:
n Rich and perfumed (Rully, Montagny)
Ageing potential: To drink young
BURGUNDY

32
THE CÔTE CHALONNAISE:
• A bit warmer than the Côte-d'Or, vineyards are mostly at
higher altitudes, ripening is a bit later.
• Soil is fragmented limestone and marl, hilly outcroppings.
• Single Guyot training with some machine harvesting,
vinification is similar to the Côte-d'Or, but new oak is rarely
used.
• Wines are lighter in style than in the Côte-d'Or, more light-
weight and less textured.
• Premier Cru vineyards are: Rully, Montagny and Mercurey.
Wines produced in the Côte Chalonnaise
include:
• Generic and sparkling Burgundy
• Bourgogne Aligoté-Bouzeron
• Rully – white and red
• Givry, mostly red
• Montagny – white only

33
Mâconnais
CHARDONNAY
SOLUTRE-POUILLY
,
FUISSE
,
LOCHE
,
VINZELLES
SAINT-VERAN
,
MÂCON VILLAGES
MÂCON (BLANC-ROUGE-ROSÉ)
POUILLY-FUISSÉ
POUILLY-VINZELLES
POUILLY-LOCHÉ
SAINT-VÉRAN
Essentially white wines:
n Supple, fresh and perfumed
(Mâcon-Villages, Pouilly-Fuissé)
Some red wines:
n Fruity and straightforward
(Mâcon rouge)
BURGUNDY

34
THE MÂCONNAIS: BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS
• Significantly warmer (especially in summer) than the Côte-
d'Or.
• Small, rolling hills based on limestone. Red wines are
produced where the soil has more sand and clay.
• Single Guyot training or Taille à queue du Mâconnais (cane
lopped around a semi-circle).
• Most wines are vinified and aged in stainless steel, however
Pouilly-Fuissé is often aged in oak, with a good portion new .
• There are no Premier Cru Vineyards.
• Wines are mostly whites, mostly un-oaked, crisp, light and
fresh. Reds are very light.
Wines produced in the Mâconnais include:
• Mâcon, Mâcon-Superiéur
• Mâcon-Villages, Mâcon+ Village Name
• St.-Véran
• Pouilly-Vinzelles, Pouilly-Louché,
Pouilly-Fuissé

35
TASTING THE MÂCONNAIS:
Appellation: AC Pouilly-Fuissé
Ageing: In 10-15% French oak (a portion of which is new
depending on the profile of the vintage) the remainder in
stainless steel, for 9-10 months.

37
BEAUJOLAIS: VILLA PONCIAGO
• The warmest region in Burgundy – hot summers, cool winters.
• Composed largely of granite hills, some patches of chalky clay
(white wine production), Southern Beaujolais is flat and sandy.
• Some single Guyot, traditional bush-trained vines (gobelet) still
common. Hand harvesting dominates. Gamay for reds,
Chardonnay for whites.
• Vinification has traditionally been carbonic maceration, short
maceration often in inert oak, early bottling. Today, move
towards Burgundian winemaking, less carbonic maceration,
whole cluster press, longer vatting and ageing.
Wines produced in Beaujolais:
• Beaujolais, Beaujolais Superiéur
• Beaujolais Villages
• Cru Beaujolais
• Beaujolais Blanc & Beaujolais Rosé

38
Cru Beaujolais
Fleurie is one of the ten « Crus » in the Beaujolais region and has
always enjoyed a special reputation
More than ten centuries of history
• Vines have existed in Beaujolais at least since the Roman era
• Crus recognised by INAO in 1936
• For some crus, « climats » indexed
The Crus
Crus : terroir located on slopes with rocky
soil
• Fleurie: « feminine » violets, finesse,
one of the longest lived
• Moulin-à-Vent: high tannnins, one of
the longest lived
• Brouilly: brooding, dense
• Côte de Brouilly: structured, elegant
• St. Amour: intensely red-fruited
• Chénas: minerally, light
• Juliénas: red cherries, cassis-like with
age
• Chiroubles: delicate, light
• Régnié: full-bodied, red currants
• Morgon: dense, firm, minerally

39
VILLA PONCIAGO
Villa Ponciago is an homage to ten centuries of cultivating the vine
in Fleurie. Villa Ponciago is the estate’s first known name, in Latin,
when the property was donated to the Abbaye de Cluny in the
year 949 AD.
Purchased by the Henriot family in 2008, the estate is 49 hectares
situated on some of the best terroirs in Fleurie.
Gamay produced in a Burgundian style with no carbonic
maceration used.
Terroir driven wines from the Fleurie Cru, all finesse and elegance,
sublimated by the silky texture of oak maturing in aged casks.
Delicious wines.

40
TASTING BEAUJOLAIS: VILLA PONCIAGO
Appellation: AC Fleurie
Fermentation: 100% de-stemmed to remove Gamay’s green stalks.
Cold maceration (pre-fermentation), then a long fermentation (8-12
days) to allow the terroir aromas to emerge.
Ageing: Depending on the vintage, 20-30% aged in used French oak
casks (1-4 years old), the remainder is aged for 5 months in small tanks
to preserve freshness.
Appellation: AC Fleurie
Fermentation: 100% de-stemmed to remove Gamay’s green stalks.
Cold maceration (pre-fermentation), then a long fermentation (10-15
days) to allow the terroir aromas to emerge.
Ageing: Depending on the vintage, 40%-60% aged in used French oak
barrels (1-4 years old), 10% in new oak demi-muids (400 l), the
remainder is matured for 6-8 months in small tanks to preserve
freshness.

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