Edi Guide Winter 2009

1. Edinburgh

2. Queen Street York Place
Frederick St
Castle Street
Hanover Street
Charlotte SQ St.Andrew SQ
George Street
Rose Street
Princes Street
North Bridge
Scott´s
Monument
Lothian Road
Carnival
Edinburgh Castle
Sotuh Bridge
Royal Mile
George IV Bridge
Johnston TCE
Grassmarket
Cowgate
Edinburgh
City Centre
CONTENT
Itineraries 1
„We´re are having a barrie time“ 10
Eating and Whisky and more
„What´s on tonite?“ 20
clubs and cinema and more
History and Culture 26
galleries and tartan and more

3. NOTES

4. Edinburgh is the most desirable city to live in the
UK. At least, according to a 2009 YouGov poll.
Edinburgh came out top for its atmosphere and
positive reputation.
We, the authors of this guide, can approve these
results.
“Auld Reekie” is indeed a wonderful place to visit.
There’s the Castle, the Scott Monument, Arthur’s
Seat ... yes, we talk about them, too. But beyond
those mainstream sights we leave the trampled
tourist paths and try to create an alternative gui-
de to Scotland’s capital.
If you only have one or two days to stay our
itineraries will help you spend them efficiently.
Edinburgh is a rather pricy town, in general. But
the are spots which offer cheap food, clothing or
other items. Your wallet will thank you for taking
our advice. Then, of course, there’s the whisky.
You can’t leave Scotland without having tasted the
best brands. Luckily, we have sorted out the the
bad ones, so that you don’t have to.
Finally, you’ll encounter people, attractions and
stories you won’t find in any other tourist gui-
de. For Edinburgh in all its grandeur is yet to be
discovered.
your City Travel Review Team

5. In the following (text) we would like to suggest you three
totally different options how to spend your days in char-
ming Edinburgh in the most efficient, yet affordable way.
It is up to you to choose between: a very touristy and
therefore historic, massive and impressive day – a rather
alternative, picturesque and unique day or a pretty artis-
tic, educating and entertaining day. However, in the end
it needs to be said that – as different as they might seem
– each day in some way includes all the above mentioned
adjectives.
Itineraries
In Scotland´s varied
and inspiring Capital –
Edinburgh - creativity
and individuality is
written in rather big
letters. Maybe that is
why became known
for famous writers
(like Sir Walter Scott
and Robert Louis
Stevenson), artists,
philosophers (like David
Hume), scientists and
economics (like Adam
Smith).
Exploring Edinburgh´s
Old and New Town
includes a lot of walking.
But thanks to closes, wynds and significant
historic buildings a walk is not just a walk –
it is rather an experience and discovery. You
soon feel at home and protected in this friendly
and curious area. However, public transportation
is more than unnecessary to discover this place,
which seems to be neither a town nor a city –
but this exactly is what creates Edinburgh´s
unique character. Although it kept its small,
familiar flair and although this is the place
where all the traditional, tiny specialized shops
and their chatty salesperson still exist, it offers
everything a human´s city heart might desire as
well.
It is now your time to be an explorer and to
discover Edinburgh on your own, inspired by
our itineraries.
Have fun!
1

6. Tour
is ty Iti
nera
ry
d as a World
A visit to Edinburgh – inscribe
1995 – would
Heritage Site by UNESCO in
not actively visi-
not be complete if you have
d the treasure
ted, experienced and absorbe
all your senses
– chest of historic gems with
Royal Mile.
that are at your disposal: the
a of Edinburgh.
The most typical touristy are
to provide you
Yes – although we would like
anti-touristy
with the most alternative and
s to offer, we
tips and places Edinburgh ha
the chance to
also feel the need to offer you
ic Old Town,
experience Edinburgh´s histor
touristy attrac-
and with it its indispensable
tions.
of the fact
You might want to be aware
l notice
that today surely everyone wil
is no shame
that you are a tourist, which
t most of the
at all. Not that surprising tha
on your route
people you are going to see
re is no
today are tourists, too. So the
day to
need to hide – today is YOUR
day to
free the tourist in you – YOUR
er the
explore one souvenirshop aft
ingly
other and YOUR day to stunn
stop and stare with your head
s impressive
t thrown back so to see thi
building in front of you.
2

7. To start this extraordinary day you climb up the four floors of the Scott´s
Monument, which is situated in the heart of Princes Street. Hopefully it
is a sunny day so that you have a clear overallview of Edinburgh in its full
pride – the Monument´s four different viewpoints serve you with exclusive
and accurate windy views to the North Sea, up Princes Street, down Princes
Street with Carlton Hill & the Balmoral Hotel´s Big Ben – like clock in the
background, and of course an excellent view of the Old Town and its Castle.
Due to the fact that there are two other excellent viewpoints like Carlton
Hill and Arthur´s Seat – which are, by the way, for free – you might not
want to spend £3 on Scott´s Monument. Nevertheless it is higly recommen-
ded, unless you are either afraid of heights, fat or claustrophobic. However,
if you like cosy, dark spiral stair cases that lead you up the way – and force
you to squeeze yourself past the descending strangers – it is worth the
unique view.
After getting
the first impr
the Royal M ession of th
ile – approx e day from
one and on imately a m above you ne
ly pedestrian ile long, part ed to head
tartans, scot zone in Edin ly still pretty to
tish scarves, burgh. For royal and th
used by tour Kilts, Shortbr those of yo e
ist as souven ead or othe u who are in
paradise - in irs for the lo r Scottish sp to
cluding high ved ones w ecialities -
buy ordinary class cashm ho stayed at
touristy thin ere shops as home: this
For the rest gs. well as afford is
of you it mig able shops to
guess abou ht be satisfyi
t the other´ ng enough
tourist. Ther s supply an to go in one
efore you pa d move on of the stores
front of the ss the Hea to fulfill thei ,
Church and rt of Midlo r task as a
spit right in thian to yo proper
the only plac the middle of ur left, righ
Afterw e in Scotlan it. Indeed, th t in
a d where you
donke rds the ne are asked to
spit in public
is probably
is
y ridin xt att .
but u g a ho ractio
nfortu rse – n wait
in the nately actua s
p th lly this just aroun
inbetw ast so tha ere were is the dt
een lo t it no m statue he corner
ts of p w loo ade some of an –a
ks a b a
arking
spots it disp rchitectica admiral,
. laced l mist
and is akes
banis
hed
3

8. As you are already next to the Church it is worth paying attention to
it and to go in for a few minutes and – hopefully on a sunny day – to
watch the reflections of the imressive stained glass windows.
However, the most important information about the Royal Mile is that
it connects the Edinburgh Castle in the North with the Holyrood Pa-
lace and the new, controversial Scotish Parliament in the South.
Surely, there are some people who like to see the castle from inside
– who like to see the room where Mary, Queen of Scots gave birth to
her son James, the future King of Scotland and England – who like to
see the Stone of Destiny as well as the Scottish Crown Jewels, called
the Honours of Scotland,. Nevertheless this takes about 2 hours, so
that probably some of you are satisfied with a picture of each on a
flyer and spend their time in a maybe more fun and exciting place –
the Camera Obscura right below the Castle.
As the touristy
day moves on
Unsurprisingly, you will surely
the Royal Mile feel the need
dinner and of offers you a w to get somethi
course beer or ide variety of pl ng to eat.
and less known whisky. So ther aces to have lu
as well as smal e are lots of tr nch, coffee,
cused coffee sh ler sandwich sh aditional pubs,
ops, which offe ops offering go inexpensive
Starbucks and r you soups-of od food, young-
Subway. All in -the-day, as w people fo-
lunchbreak. Ho all you indeed ell as maintream
wever, as we ar have more than shops like
Scottish Haggi e on our tourist one option to
s with Neeps an ic route its appr spend your
cal, is having fa d Tatties in one opriate to have
st food á la Sc of the local pu a propper
otland: deep fri bs. Cheaper, bu
ed Fish&Chips. t still typi-
After having lunch it is time to take a walk to the graveyard. “Why go to a graveyard?“, you might
wonder. But this is not just any graveyard. It is THE graveyard. The graveyard where you can
find the most haunted Mausoleum in Edinburgh and even more important: the graveyard
including Greyfriar Bobby´s Grave! The grave itself is worshipped with a few pale-coloured
plastic flowers and rain-soaked cuddle toys. You might not have heard of “Bobby, the
Terrier“ who, after the death of his owner, used to come to his grave for the rest of his
live, 14 years, to still take care of him. Just around the corner Edinburgh dedicated
Bobby a statue, which now ist the most photographed statue in Edinburgh – so
feel free to unpack you camera and take the 100.000th Bobby-picture to update
your photogallery.
4

9. Regardless of any age, you surely have heard of J.K.Rowling, the author of “Harry
Potter“. If you go down Southbridge it is hard to miss the red building to your left,
called: “The Elephant House“, which is the place where Rowling got inspired to write
her stories about young Wizards attending school in an old, mysterious Castle called
Hogwarts. That is why this Café is also called “The birthplace of Harry Potter“.
Hopefully this sounds interesting enough to you to go in. You might wonder why ele-
phants inspired today´s second richest woman in Scotland (on a list right below the
Queen) to write such an anti-elephanitc story. That is because it was not the cafe´s –
still present - elephants that inspired her, but the unique, undisturbed and incredible
viewpoint of the Castle, situated on the remnants of a volcano formed 340 milllion
years ago. This looks impressively dangerous but still secure, with the graveyard in
front of it – leading the observers view up the hill.
After this impressive break it is hard to be surprised by anythin
t of the picturesque. Neverth g more
Stepping ou you eless you should give it a try and therefore visit the
Gallery´s building “National Gallery of Scotland“, which is on Princes Street
fall out Scott´s Monument. Depending on how – near the
will literaryly interested you are in Scotland´s
erman“ pretigious national collection, including European art from
into the “G the 16th until
market, 19th centuries and early Italian and Dutch paintings up to 1530, this
Christmas
mes you tour takes from half an hour to 2 hours. If your feet already hurt and
which welco
warming you feel the need to sit down you can also use the IT-Gallery and ex-
with a hot, plore the collections using a new, modern and innovative
Glühwein, Crepes, cho- computer. touch-screen
laced ap ples
colate-g
balls and The chances of taking your tourist tour on a Tuesday are approximately 1 to
or marzipan 7. If it is a Tuesday, you should end the day with a Ceileidh Dance Course
grilled pota toes – just at Grass Market, accompanied by live Folkmusic (including a Fiddle, Drums
christm as
as a good ee to
and surely an Accordeon) This is an introduction into the Scottish Folkdance,
shou ld do. Feel fr mostly attended by groups, couples, friends, singles and above all tourists as
ild in you well as locals. Especially if you forgot to bring a partner along with you, the
satisfy the ch of old, renovated church crowded with people of the average age of 23 might -
on one
with a ride Mary-
in the beginning - rather evokes the impression of a “SingleMarket or Speed
the
the horses of
dating“. However, there are lots of group dances that get even the stiffest and
nquer most moody person to laugh, dance, clap their hands, be happy and forget
G o-Round or co all their doubts of dancing in front of strangers – because actually you dance
your fear with them. Moreover it is not the normal, traditional standard dance or disco
-of- hights dance which you might imagine, it is much more a running, interaction and
in a circling each other around, with the purpose to shout out loud full of happi-
ride ness and to have a jolly-good time. And beyond any doubt: it is hardly that
easy to laugh and have a good time with a lot of open-minded people in a
in th e
good mood. And if you still not feel the need to dance – you can also just sit
Ferris down, have a beer, watch from the first floor and reflect the day. GT
wheel. 5

10. Alternative Itinerary
This is the day to enjoy breathtaking views and to
walk the hidden path in order to explore unique
places.
Start your day with a typical Scottish breakfast which
usualy includes toast, an egg, sausage, beans and black
pudding (just so that it is not mistaken with tasty chocola-
te pudding - better described as: blood-sausage). Mostly
it is called (among tourists): Hangover-Breakfast. The
fact that the Scotsman likes to eat this kind of breakfast
quite often, leaves no doubt why Scotland is the the num-
ber one on the list of the country with the highest rate of
heart-attacks.
A pretty good place to have breakfast would be „The Mit-
re“, which is a huge pub on Royal Mile, where breakfast
starts at £4,50. But there are several other places to get
traditional breakfast on the Royal Mile as well, such as
„The Crag and Tail“. This is a more modern, plain styled
restaurant where breakfast starts at £5,95.
After having such a filling breakfast it is a good idea to
go for a nice walk, which leads you down Royal Mile,
along the new Scottish Parliament, established in
2001, and the Holyrood Palace, opposite to it. Your
walk takes you further to Arthur´s Seat – the hill
which is so close to town but whose nature still preser-
ves such a lovely, mystical and magical atmosphere as
if wandering around the Hobbit´s Landscape.
The further you go the longer, steeper and more ex-
hausting gets the hill – but keeping in mind the reward
of the view you are going to get it is absolutely worth
the effort.
After this succesful hike you are allowed to proudly
rest on top of Arthur´s Seat and to take a few or ma-
ybe a lot of pictures.
6

11. As usually going down a hill is much easier and faster,
you soon arrive at the end of Royal Mile again. Do you
have the flavour of warm, creamy and homemade
soup, tasty like your mother used to cook it for you, in
mind? This means it is time to head to delightful “Hula“
at Grassmarket. In a warm, orange-toned atmosphere
they welcome you with warming, homemade food such
as bagels or soups. For the ones who instead feel the
need to be spoilt with a hot chocolate or a strong whis-
key, the Grassmarket offers a variety of inexpensive,
cosy pubs.
You might have already noticed that Grassmarket
looks a bit different compared to all the other places
Edinburgh offered you so far. Congratulations! You just
discovered one of Scotland´s most exciting and unique
area. Surrounded by Victoria Street (once Edinburgh´s
most illegal area), Cowgate and Candlemaker Row and
its well preserved architecture from 1700, this area
leaves you stunned by an occasionally creepy, weird
and alternative selection of shops. Here, in he heart
of the Old Town, vintage shops (like Armstrong, having
celebrity fans like Kaiser Chiefs and Franz Ferdinand)
are nestled next to joke shops, exclusive Scottish de-
sign shops, gothic and corset as well as hat specialists,
trendy shops as well as old-fashioned or science fiction
oriented book stores and comic stores.
7

12. To move on with this impressive day, a visit to the Dean
Gallery or the Gallery of Modern Art right next to it
would be appropriate. Despite the Galleries themselves,
which are on Belford Road, the walk to get there is pretty
amazing, too. First of all you get a pretty good impression
of Edinburgh´s less touristy area and maybe get inspired
by some cafés or pubs you pass. Secondly, walking along
feels like being one of the students you pass on your way
– going home to your cosy apartment on the third floor
with its beautiful view of the park right behind the house.
Why not fantasise how the flat right below the roof of the
house with these many, lovely chimneys looks like. How
would it be to live in there?
It is now time to lay back entirely relaxed and carefree
while nipping on a warming cup of hot chocolate.
Urbanangel Café offers everyone his own private space-
whether you want to read, chat or just have a second on
your own to feel like an angel - in a modern, clean and
sober, yet lovely heartwarming atmosphere. Not to forget,
that this is the place to get the best chocolate brownies in
town.
To end this day you could attend a pubquiz, which is pretty
famous among the local people and is usually held by dif-
ferent pubs on a fixed day of the week. On Monday´s for
instance “The Bailies“ is full of young, curious locals who
hope to be able to answer the quizmaster´s questions on
anything - from celebrities to politics and geography, while
enjoying good company and a few beers. Surely you some-
times just have to guess the answer, therefore you can get
extrapoints for extraordinarily funny answers. Feel free so
shout and cheer like a real Scotsman! GT

13. ra ry
I tine
ar ty
sh ort-
The
Art Galleries
in the Dundas Street
Mc Naughton´s
Start your day with several Book Shop
small and different art coll- on Leith Walk
ections, all side by side.
Find some old beautiful
books here - for 2nd Hand
prices!
Filmhouse
Calton Hill
Enjoy the view and relax. on Lothian Road
Go for a film in this unique
independent cinema.
The Bowery
on Roxborrow Place
Listen to live music and
have a beer in the evening.

14. PUB
„We´re having
a barrie time!“
10

15. Eating and drinking in
the land of the brave
Scotland’s cuisine is not really known as a gourmet’s cuisine. Due to limited sun-
shine and a lot of wind and rain during the year there is not a wide range of native
products growing naturally in Scotland. Root crops such as carrots or potatoes are
plentiful whereas fruits and other types of vegetables are largely imported from
countries with a warmer climate. After having spent three weeks in Scotland just
eating traditional food you may put on some weight. Nevertheless, some Scottish
food is better than its reputation.
What Scotsmen eat for breakfast
Scots don’t shirk breakfast. Traditional breakfast includes, of course, por-
ridge. This mixture of oats and water can be delicious if you are a fan of
gruel. In fact, porridge was the main diet for generations of Scots in former
times. Traditionalists of the older generation swear that the only way to eat
it is just with water and a dash of salt. Nowadays, it is mostly mixed with
cream, fruit, butter or even whisky to give it a hint of the exotic. People visit-
ing Scotland for the first time are generally amazed by cooked breakfast but
it is not popular with everyone.
If you enjoy a traditional breakfast you have to make your way through the
mixture of egg, sausage, bacon, chips, toast, mushrooms, baked beans and
black pudding. In contrast to this, if you are into common continental break-
fast you will also find this anywhere.
What to eat for a quick lunch
After having a rich breakfast you may not feel
like having lunch. Nevertheless, if you are in
the mood of eating further there are a lot of
nice pubs and restaurants to pop in. Lunch
tends to be taken quickly or on the hop. For
lunch people mainly have a snack like a soup,
a pie or a sandwich.
Going out for dinner
Being surrounded by so many deep oceans, fish
still make up an important part of the Scottish
food. In Scotland they have a variety of excellent
native fish, such as smoked salmon, herring and
haddock. Venison and deer are popular with gour-
mets too. Available all year, venison has a strong,
distinctive taste. There is plenty of wild game to
choose from, such as rabbit, duck, partridge or
pigeon. People focus much more on dinner than on
lunch as dinner is the actual main meal of the day.
11

16. Fish and chips:
Fish and chips is a popular take-away food
in Scotland therefore you definitely have
to try it once. It consists of deep-fried fish
(traditionally cod, haddock or flounder)
in batter or bread crumbs with deep-fried
chipped potatoes.
Scottish dessert:
It seems that Scottish people have a sweet
tooth because there are a lot of delicious but
extremely sweet desserts. The most famous
one is probably fudge, a small toffee bar si-
milar to caramel, mainly made of sugar and
butter. After a visit in the Fudge House you get
a sugar shock for sure! If you are into sweet
staff you will be satisfied with having some
cheesecake, Dundee cake, shortbread or dou-
ghnut... there is enough for everyone.
If you visit Edinburgh try
Pies: these typical Scottish dishes:
Pies are simply pieces of meat in gravy encased
with crusty pastry. These pies are filled with
minced meat and onions. Often, the meat is
replaced by innards. According to the traditi-
on mutton meat is used but nowadays beef is Haggis with tatties and neeps:
more commonly used. There are different types Haggis is Scotland’s national dish. It even
of pies, such as fish pie, chicken pie, mince pie comes up first in people’s minds when
or steak pie. they think about Scotland. In the distant
past when times were hard, haggis was a
creative way of using up what is left over.
It is offal with oats, spices, and pepper.
Ingredients are stuffed into a sheep’s sto-
mach to be baked and served up with tat-
ties and neeps. Despite the fact that this
all sounds awful, haggis is surprisingly
tasty. As Scottish people more and more
have become vegetarians they have in-
vented vegetarian Haggis. It is a popular
alternative to the old blood and guts way.
12

17. After strolling around Edinburgh in search of nice places to
appease one’s appetite or hunger here are some sugges-
tions of locations to go to:
Crag and Tail (Restaurant) Gourmet Burger Kitchen (Restaurant)
503 Lawnmarket, Royal Mile, 137 George Street EH2 4JY
Edinburgh, EH1 2PH British and Irish franchise but tasty burgers at
Small but modern, friendly internati- reasonable prices, huge portions, also offers
onal staff, offer typical Scottish food, exotic burgers (e.g. Avocado burger, Jamaican
good place to enjoy rich Scottish burger), contemporary interior design, lounge
music, nice alternative to pubs and touristy
breakfast but also a place to be in the
places for business people as well as students.
evenings.
Wannaburger (Restaurant) Susie’s Wholefood Diner (Vegetari-
217 High Street an restaurant)
Edinburgh, EH1 1PE 51 West Nicolson Street, Newington
At first glance it seems to be a mainstream Edinburgh EH8 9DB
fast food restaurant but it is probably one Specialises in organic vegetarian meals,
of the best places to enjoy a big delicious relaxed atmosphere, chilled out staff,
burger in Edinburgh, very friendly staff,
students’ area, ideal for low budget.
easy-going and young atmosphere.
Halfway House (Pub) Black Medicine Coffee Co.
24 Fleshmarket Close, 2 Nicolson Street Edinburgh, EH8 8DH
Edinburgh, EH1 1BX Cosy and casual atmosphere, non conventi-
The smallest pub in Edinburgh, winner onal place, meeting point for young people
of the award for pub of the year 2009, and students, friendly staff, independent pri-
vate run coffee shop, wide range of teas and
hidden in the heart of Edinburgh’s Old
fresh smoothies, broad range of food ranging
Town, tiny but warmly welcoming you, from chocolate fudge cake and cookies to cia-
they specialise in ales/beers. batta melts and soups.
Jekyll & Hide Pub (Pub) L’alba D’oro (Fish’n’chips)
112 Hanover Street 5-7 Henderson Row, New Town
Edinburgh, Midlothian EH2 1DR Edinburgh, EH3 5DH
A bit dark but pretty individual place,
toilets are hidden behind a bookcase, Probably best chippy in Edinburgh,
unique character, chatty and delight- take-away and delivery.
ful staff, regular comedy nights.
13

18. The Underground Café (coffee) The Kenilworth (Pub)
34 Elder Street 152-154 Rose Street
Edinburgh, EH1 3DX Edinburgh, EH2 3JD, United Kingdom
Welcoming atmosphere, cosy seats,
Small venue but cosy and friendly place, friendly staff, huge portions,
ideal for having a chat and get some delicious meals, also reasonably priced
coffee, tea or snack. typical Scottish breakfast.
Biddy Mulligans (Pub) Royal Mile Tavern (Pub)
96 Grassmarket Edinburgh, EH1 2JR 127 High Street Edinburgh EH1 1SG
Old-fashioned style, very rustic and Discounts for backpackers who are
Scottish, ideal for typical Pub feeling staying in a hostel, lovely staff, friendly
when enjoying a beer. Delicious and warmly welcoming atmosphere, young
reasonably priced meals for lunch, e.g. people’s meeting point, live music play-
soup with bread, a place where you find ing current rock songs, nice place for
locals drinking a beer with a good friend
Bannerman’s (Pub) The Canny Man (Pub)
212 Cowgate/Niddry Street Edinburgh, 237 Morning Side Road
EH1 1NQ EH10 4 QU
Historic pub, a bit hidden below South Bridge, mee- Outside the city centre but worth going there,
ting point for students and backpackers, sometimes alternative style, individual pub full of nooks,
crowded but very lively, live new alternative music staffed with antique and junk, pub with the
(Folk, Rock, Indie, Punk, Metal), Karaoke, student widest range of whiskies in the city, famous
discounts, not a place to go for just a quiet drink, it
for delicious food, if they don’t want you to
is a place to get drunk and get to know new people.
enter you won’t enter.
UR
14

19. Well, if you are hungry right now after reading all this staff about food and
meals in Scotland there is just one thing to be recommended to you: have a
look at the following table as it might help you to find your way through the
Scottish gourmet jungle:
angus beef Gourmet beef from Scottish Angus cow
banger and mash sausage with mashed potatoes
bashed neeps mashed beetroot/turnip
black pudding blood sausage
cock-a-leekie chicken soup with leek
cullen skink fish soup with smoked fish
haggis sheep stomach filled with sheep’s innards, oat and onions
ham & haddy smoked haddock topped with ham and cheese
hugga-muggie fish-haggis served in fish stomach
kipper hot smoked bloater/red herring
mince minced meat with onions and gravy
scotch broth vegetable soup with grain from pearl barley
stovies purée from potatoes and onions
white pudding fried or roasted white sausage, sometimes for vegetarians
bannock flat oat bread either sweet or spicy
black bun traditional fruit cake for Hogmanay (= New Year’s Eve)
clootie dumpling typical Christmas cake with raisins and cinnamon
fudge soft butter toffee
scone little sweet cake made of flour and butter
(cheese) oatcake cookie made of oat (with cheese)
shortbread biscuits made of short pastry with a lot of butter; butter coo-
kies
chippy fish and chips
porridge boiled oats with water/milk
turnips type of vegetable, a root
dundee cake extremely sweet and heavy cake
gaelic coffee Irish coffee with scotch whisky
hotch potch soup with lamb and vegetables
neeps beetroot/turnip
pie filled pâté
venison meat from deer
tatties potatoes
toddy whisky with hot water and sugar (when someone’s got a cold)
15

20. Let´s have a dram!
You have never drunk whisky? What
would be a visit to Scotland without ha-
ving tasted a nice glass of whisky?
Well, you probably know Jack Daniel’s mixed In order to add a subtle nuance, quality
with Coke, but guys, this is not what we are Scotch whiskies are often aged in used
talking about here! True whisky is produ- casks from Bourbon production. Scotch
ced where men wear kilts, where cows are whiskies are divided into five main regions
hairy and sheep’s innards are considered a namely Highland, Lowland, Islay, Speyside
country’s favourite meal. (Tip: visit Dufftown!) and Campbeltown. The
No other beverage is so intimately connec- natural water in each region contributes to
ted to the spirit of a nation. The word for the taste of a whisky.
whisky itself has its root in the old Gaelic t Whisky has established itself as an affordable
erm for water, uisge. Uisge beatha means luxury with a trend for drinking less but bet-
the water of life in Gaelic. Outside Scotland ter. Scotland continues to set the pace when
you order a glass of whisky… but if you want it comes to wonderful whisky. Industry figu-
to do this in a Scottish way then you order res prove that shipments of whisky abroad
a dram! are up despite economic recession. Scotsmen
Whisky is a delicious but strong alcoholic be- can proudly present their Scotch whisky ex-
verage distilled from fermented grain mash. port quota which already represents 20% of
Different grains are used for different vari- Scotland’s manufactured exports. One of the
eties, including barley, malted barley, rye, great joys when it comes to whisky is disco-
malted rye, wheat and maize. While the vering an unfamiliar distillery and finding it
market is dominated by blends, the most produces wonderful single malts. If you do
highly prized of Scotch whiskies are the not have the opportunity to do so just take
single malts which are made of one type of a look at the list below with suggestions of
grain. Whiskies mature in wooden casks what types of whisky one could start with on
which are generally made of oak. a whisky experience.
Here are some affordable Scottish Single Malt whiskies that can be recommended. They are
mainly light and delicate ones, therefore also suitable for the Ladies ;)
Name Age Taste Produc-
tion
Aberlour 10 very soft, dry, fresh and fruity aroma from apples and pears, Speyside
sweet toffee note, hint of marzipan (honey and nuts), smooth
and creamy finishing
Dalwhinnie 15 Aromatic nose with hints of peat, sweet, hint of honey and Highland
vanilla, with a bit citrus fruit flavour, long intense finish which
starts sweet but gets to peat and malt
Glenfarclas 10 fruity, hints of dried fruit, cinnamon and vanilla, a wee oily, Speyside
smokiness combined with sherry sweetness, long smooth and
spicy finish
Glenlivet 12 Aromatic, flowery, clean and simple though some spice, notes Speyside
of vanilla, slightly sweet, long but mild and warming finish
Macallan 15 matured in sherry and bourbon oak, smooth and light, the Speyside
Fine Oak aroma has a hint of rose and cinnamon, the finishing tastes
like chocolate with hints of orange and raisins, lingering
Some other very delicious and aromatic ones that you should try are, for instance, Mortlach, Macallan,
Glenfiddich, Edradour and Balvenie... well, the reason why the whiskies mentioned above are mainly
from the Speyside or the Highlands is simply because Scots say the magic that makes their whiskies
better than anyone else’s is in the water from their Highland rivers!
16

21. If you want to immerse yourself into the delicate world of whisky, you
should consider some things in order to enjoy the full cheer and not
to make a fool of yourself. Just follow some easy instructions and you
will learn how to become a whisky expert ;)
Lesson 1
How to prepare for a whisky tasting:
a) The smaller the glass the better
b) Use water to mix with the whisky or
drink between the whiskies.
This will enrich the taste, or bouquet as
the professionals call it.
c) Concentrate on smell (nose), palate
(taste) and finish (after-taste) and finally
overall impression
d) If you want to eat something with it
have some crackers or oat-
cakes
Lesson 2
How to taste a whisky:
a) Swill the whisky around in the glass (but take care you do not
spill it!)
b) Put the glass just below your nose, smell it (but don’t take a
breath too deep!) and describe what you smell – Is it fruit, vanilla,
caramel? Is it fishy or smoky?
c) Taste a wee bit and let it rest some seconds in your mouth. It
can be soft or sharp, spicy or nutty, fruity or smoky.
d) Finally swallow it. It can have a long or short aftertaste, gentle
and fruity or sharp and spicy. UR+PO
17
Edradour Whiskey Distillery

22. The widest range of whiskies to buy can probably be found at Peckhams
(Peckham & Rye, 155-159 Bruntsfield Place, Edinburgh, EH10 4DG, Uni-
ted Kingdom, +44 131 228 2888) or in one of those specialised whisky
retailers in the city of Edinburgh. So just pop in one of the following:
Cadenhead Royal Mile
The Whisky Shop
Whisky Shop Whiskies
28 Victoria Street
172 Canongate 379 High Street
Edinburgh
Edinburgh Edinburgh EH1
EH1 2JW
EH8 8DF 1PW
+44 (0)131 225
+44 (0)131 556 +44 (0) 131 225
4666
5864 3383
18

23. The Forest
My old wooden table is decorated with a beer
bottle which serves as a vase for a yellow
rose.While using the free WiFi I observe this
girl sitting near me. She is getting a red cat
out of her huge bag and starts to put colour-
ful ribbons around the animal’s neck. The cat,
feeling that her natural appearance is going
to be significantly manipulated, escapes and
hides behind an armchair. Crazy. But the
people in here are crazy – crazy and young
and artistic and open-minded. Meet the direct
gateway to the friendly alternative milieu of
Edinburgh:The Forest Café. Its offerings cover
far more than a fine selection of tea, coffee,
soups and wraps – you can also attend film
screenings, live music, poetry or language
courses. Everything is for free.
So it is not only a meeting point for
creative people but also a place for crea-
tivity itself which is impressively under-
lined by the mixed, partly old-fashioned
and inspiring interior.
The Forest is exclusively run by volun-
teers from all over Europe and they
spread an enjoyable international am-
bience. One of those is now helping to
catch the cat. Crazy café. WK
bring your own alcohol from the
supermarket and enjoy it here -
no problem
19

24. 20 What´s on tonite?

25. CAMEO V
Generally, when a cinema is tagged as the favourite in the
whole world by no less a figure than Quentin Tarantino, it
is time for the owner to pop the corks, as he should be set
for life . However, the cinema in question is not the most
profitable Art House venue in Edinburgh. With the Film-
house just some 300 feet a way, The Cameo has found
a worthy rival in the battle for the favour of the capital’s
cinéasts. Curtain up for the competition between one of
the oldest movie theatres and arguably the most important
cinema in Scotland!
Programme
On one big screen (253 seats), and two smaller screens
(75 and 66 seats) mainly alternative new-releases, but
also foreign-language films as well as classic re-issues
and documentaries are shown. Q&A screenings with
guests from the film industry take place on occasion.
The Double Bill on Sundays gives one the opportunity
to see two related films at the price of one. Every week
there is a different foreign-language film to be seen du-
ring the European matinee.
Interiors Eating and Drinking Prices
The main auditorium BEFORE 5PM: full price £5.50,
evokes reminiscences After having seen a Programme
concessions £4.20
AFTER 5PM: full price £6.50,
of the past through its terrific movie, a visit
concessions £4.90
highly elegant Edwardi- to the Café-bar is a
an style, which has been must. Have a coffee in MO: full price £4.50, concessions
largely unchanged since a relaxing atmosphe- £4.20
the inception in 1914. re, listen to the golden WED FIRST SCREENING:
The sensation alone of 20s music and see £1.50 for concessions holders
sitting in the cosy seats WEEKENDS: full price £6.50,
if you can name the
concessions £4.90
and enjoying the feeling numerous actors and
of being in an abso- directors on the walls! Concessions available for
lutely unique place is students, children under 15,
worthwhile. claimants, senior citizens
21

26. Filmhouse
Programme
Next to the latest international arthouse releases, the Filmhouse offers a
wide variety from the history of world cinema. The films that are shown on
one big screen (280 seats) and two smaller screens (97 and 72 seats) are
thoughtfully compiled into different seasons, such as “Totally Tati” or “The
Best of Czech Cinema”.
As this cinema is able to screen 70mm, it sometimes offers screenings of
silent movies, which are accompanied live by a piano. Whoever experiences
cinema at its origins in this way, can consider himself lucky!
On the second Sunday of every month the film buffs compete in an extreme-
ly tricky quiz, which makes even experts sweat. Participation in groups up to
8, starting at 9am. It is however recommended to get there early in order to
get a seat.
Interiors Eating and Drinking Prices
The interior design is BEFORE 5PM: full price
kept simple, yet prac- After having bought your ticket, £4.90, concessions £3.30
you will notice there is something AFTER 5PM: full price
tical. When entering £6.50, concessions £4.90.
missing. Yes, the Filmhouse
the Lobby, one’s sight does not sell any popcorn or
first falls on a collec- sweets, and as is turns out, this FR: BARGAIN MATINEES:
tion of outstanding is quite convenient. One can fully full price £3.60, concessi-
DVDs, which can be concentrate on the film and not ons £2.10
purchased. In front of be bothered by the eating noises
of a neighbour. Nevertheless, Concessions available
the screen in the main for students, school
one can have a reasonably priced
auditorium, there is a meal or a drink afterwards. The pupils, children under 15,
stage, which is perfect café-bar is also a good place to claimants, senior citizens,
for Q&A screenings. chat to other film-lovers. disability or invalidity
status
CONCLUSION
It is difficult to decide which cinema is better – in the end it all
comes down to each individual’s personal taste. The real winner in
the rivalry between the Cameo and the Filmhouse, though, are the
movie-goers of Edinburgh: The fact that the programme directors
seldom show a film which the other cinema is already showing,
makes Edinburgh’s range of films so uniquely diverse. ES
22

27. You’re in for a
wild and varied mix if you
choose to chew the Bubblegum on
Saturdays. Since the The Hive tries
to appeal to as many people as possible,
you’re likely to meet both heavily made-up
girls in short skirts and high heels and more
alternative-styled folks. An open-minded
attitude is therefore necessary. You can go
mental to the usual floor-fillers and as soon as
they play that tune that you’ve just heard too
many times, you can head over to the second
dance-floor and rock out to your favourite
indie song. The atmosphere in these spacious
underground vaults is perfect for party-
people from 18 to 22.
11:00-3:00am -
free entry before 11:30
Go through
the dirtiest, darkest and shadiest
underground passage of Edinburgh. Don’t
let yourself be put off by the smell of you-
don’t-want-to-know-what. Follow the narrow
back-alley, turn right and climb a couple of
steep steps. Et voilà, you made it - A bright
sign tells you your destination: the grv.
Unlike the ugly path you had to pass, the
small club you’re about to enter seems very
clean with its light-coloured wood and the
stoney walls. You may order a beer, have
a seat and ponder about the reason why
someone put so many things as peculiar as
a sewing machine or the little dog from “Toy
Story” into the cupboard behind the bar –
or you can discover unknown, young bands
just before their breakthrough! ES 23

28. Pub crawl If you have ever dreamed of getting to know as
many pubs of Edinburgh as possible – and you
just have one day to do so – you need to go on a so-called pub
crawl: one of the most popular evening activities of Edinburgh.
In general, it seems that a Scotsman somehow feels
the need to get drunk pretty fast and early. This is
due to the fact that pubs mainly close pretty early,
which means around 1 am. Consequently, pubs are
already full and crowded around 7 pm. While wan-
dering through the crowded streets full of bag-car-
rying customers in haste time seems more precious
because of shops closing their doors at 6 pm. Time
travelling begins when passing extrovert, young,
fancy-clothed students and when short skirted, high
heels wearing, laughing girls
cross your way – ready to
party. For some tourists this
might be a pretty new and
unusual experience – but
don´t worry – although it
might seem like it is already
somewhat after 11 pm your
watch truly is set at the right
time, and it really is just 7
pm, and yes: these loud,
eccentric, joking and laughing
drunken people ARE definitely
drunk. Lucky the one who
gets to know the Scotsmen on a Friday! This is the day to ob-
serve suited Businessmen drinking lots of pints of beer during
their lunch break with the purpose to get drunk in order to be
prepared for the evening. The purpose of a pub crawl – next to
getting drunk – is to spend the night in as many pubs as possible. Unsurprisingly, each
pub has its own flair and its own party-attendees so that you see and (if you want to)
talk to a big variety of younger as well as older people partying, all of them in a good
mood and willing to share a drink with you. There are crowded and busy pubs as well
as more chilling and cosy pubs. Traditional, old-fashioned as well as modern and plain
pubs. Smaller as well as bigger ones - younger as well as older ones - loud as well as
calmer ones. Moreover, there are the ones which are more trendy and the ones which
are rather alternative. There are the ones which offer live music (whether it is Jazz,
Rock, Indie or Folk) and there are the ones with a Jukebox, a DJ or a CD. And last but
not least there are the ones with Karaoke (mostly on Friday night e.g. Rose Street,
Waterloo Place)! You see – all in all it is pretty unlikely for anybody to get bored while
being on a pub crawl in Edinburgh. However, sometimes it indeed happens that one of
the group members is not satisfied with the choice of current pub and therefore wants
to move on. In this case this person should be tolerant and fair enough to wait until
the group moves on, which will happen – depending on how fast the group drinks their
beer or whisky - quite soon. Keep in mind that there are tons of other pubs waiting
to be explored by you!
24

29. Rule °1: Start your tour early and don´t feel bad about it! Keep in
mind that it might end early as well and pubs are closing early.(1 am)
Rule°3 for one drink.
:
is alrea Be tolerant an Rule °2: Just stay
dy wait d fair –
ing for you do
Rule you! It not like
°4: K will not this pu
sham eep a be long b? The
until yo n
e to
miss n eye u get th ext one
them on pubs ere...
beca i
use y n the bas
ou ju e
st ha ment! It
ve no w
t rec ould be s
ognis u
ed th ch a
em.
Rule °5: Be aware of the fact that dairy shops are not allowed to sell
alcohol after 10 pm.
r interests –
us group with simila
Rule °6: Try to crawl in a homogeno mind: there is a
re fun! And keep in
that is a lot easier and surely mo
interest.
Rule ° pub for everyone´s
7:
standin Do not expec
g at the tt
bar nex o get a seat a
t to an t
old Sco the table – be
tsman. satisfie
d with
Rule °8: There are pubs with live
music, pubs with a dance floor in
the back and there are clubs to go
afterwards as well.
Rule °9: Clubs mostly do not charge you an entrance-fee
before 11 pm.
Rule°10: Do no hesitate checkin
g out royal and expensive look
like The Dome on George Stre ing buildings
et - these might be pretty cheap
pubs to go.
Good places to crawl around: Along Royal Mile – Southbridge – Rose Street – Geor-
ge Street (the place where Prince Harry and Prince William go to Party)
You can also attend an organized pub crawl (=£10) which is not just for those of you
who travel on their own but for all the ones who want to be part of a big group. On
the one hand you will crawl in a group of different tourists from all over the world
and with different interests, and on the other hand it is guaranteed that all of them
have the same aim: to get to know new people, to have a good and fun time, and
of course: to get drunk.
Another important fact to mention is that standing at the bar between lots of Scots-
men does not allow you to hold the most serious conversation. But who wants to
hold a serious conversation, anyway? GT 25

30. History and Culture
26

31. Between Innovation
Scottish Parliament
“We have a building which is more than a building.”
Edwin Morgan
The first quality I have in mind when I think of lost more lives than any other nation.
Scottish people is their strongly expressed pri- While war was raging remote from home,
de in being Scottish. But what does that mean Scottish husbands, sons and fathers were
for them- being Scottish? Maybe, besides the sacrificing their lives while woman worked al-
richness of tradition and culture, it is related most everywhere. This caused a fundamental
to the fact that the last 100 years have turned change in established social structures.
Scottish society topsy-turvy. An approach. Industry (originally dominated by coal, steel
and heavy engineering) experienced weigh-
Because of the improvement of shipbuilding tily transformations. These sectors, which
through new technologies and practices, fishing once had been so strong, now needed state
was revolutionised in the 20th century so that support. Heavy industry was replaced by the
Scotland became one of Europe’s most impor- service sector, as well as by knowledge eco-
tant exporters of sea food. As potentially one nomy and the light high-tech industry in the
of the richest countries in renewable resources 1970s. The closure of Ravenscraig Steel Works
and the one that gains its energy entirely from in 1992 was a symbol for the end of Scotland
natural resources (such as coal, oil and gas), as a heavy industrial nation. The change in the
Scotland is well prepared for the future and the textile industry was not less enormous. Where-
financial sector is sympathetic towards Scot- as previously one in eight people was working
land, since it had started growing very quickly in the textile industries the manifold products
in the 1970s, as well.This development might were nearly reduced to tartan and cashmere.
support the fallacy that Scotland had weathe- Together with the reduction of products, wor-
red the storms of war very easily but the in- kers had to leave the factories. Fewer working
heritances of the 19th century were hard to hours in the 20s were the result of globalisa-
carry. tion and mechanisation, and subsequently a
Not only because of the huge political, econo- lack of working places. People filled their free
mical and social changes, which led Scotland time easily using the options modification, car
the way to its today’s place in the world, the ownership and cheap holidays, which in the
lives of most Scots were deeply touched by 1960s found their way into society. They be-
World War I and II. Proportionally, Scotland gan to travel around while Scotland, however,
27

32. and Tradition
be used to add authority to
went on being the most the engrained wish of gaining political
favourite place for taking holidays. independence and acknowledgement on the
part of England.
“The Sick man of Europe”, that is what Scotland Having conquered so many barriers on the
was called and not without any good reason. way to finding their national identity, the
Poverty, sub-standard living conditions and life words“There shall be a Scottish Parliament.”,
expectancy lower than in the Gaza Strip marked written down in the Scotland Act of 1998,
the 20th century. Poor housing and health as sounded greatly releasing to the Scottish peo-
well as unemployment was tackled by creating ple. The labour government under Tony Blair
new towns and programmes of slum-clearance. promised reform. On 11th of October, 1997
After the Second World War competing markets a referendum was held to decide whether a
(in prices and goods) reduced smaller busines- Scottish Parliament should be established and
ses to rubble and in times of the Internet a glo- about its ability to vary taxation. Unsurprisin-
bal market for Scottish products was created. gly the majority of Scots answered both ques-
A growing multiculturalism, votes for woman (es- tions with yes.
tablished in 1918), their involvement in politics Finally, on 1st of July, 1999, the first Scottish
plus the new-found voice of the working class Parliament met for the first time since the
during the wars -of which the evolution of the union in 1707, full of ambiguity to start work
labour-movement in Britain was an indication - as this had happened very seldom in history.
made social life more colourful and innovative.
Notwithstanding these great changes, new-
Dealing with ordinary life was a daily occur- ly acquired improvements in society and
rence until the 1970s, when people found time the well-deserved pride on being Scottish, it
to question the loyalty to the Anglo-Scottish should not be forgotten that serious problems
Union. still do exist, such as social deprivation and
Therefore the foundation of the National Party poor health. Finding a solution must be the
in 1934 (still a minority group) was a sign of re- ultimate goal for the future which is fast ap-
covery from the gaping wounds inflicted by war. proaching. LJ
Regained power and growing self-consciousness
could now
28

33. Godavia
9 West Port
In the front area those of you with fat
purses can find interesting creations
of young designers. In order to fill the
leaks of your shopping bags the rest of
you can rummage in the back room of
Godavia.
The mentality of giving and a corporate feeling seem to be traditionally
deep-seated in Scottish peoples′ minds, not allowing to expect any
thing as a reward for it. Therefore you can find lots of charity
and vintage shops all over Edinburgh. Here are the very
special ones. LJ
2nd Hand Shops
Armstrong
and Sons′at Grassmarket 83
Opening Armstrong’s door is like diving into another Barnardo′s Vintage
world feeling captured by a nearly absurd mixture Store
of eccentric, alternative and traditional styles. Huge 116 West Bow
ruffled skirts and dresses are enthroning above your
head, interrupted by lustres draped with pearl neck- Being most friendly wel-
laces and other affectionate details, such as old music
comed by the shop assis-
boxes, commodes and extraordinary crazy figurines.
tant you can launch into a
You cannot stop browsing, here is a lot of everything!
If you want to feel like a real lady (century is selecta-
variety of clothing, enjoy-
ble), are looking for a stylish everyday-outfit, or want ing a cosy living-room-
to costume yourself, you need to come here. atmosphere at Barnardo′s
personal and intimate little
store. Run riot in trying out
totally different styles!
29

34. Herman Brown
Concrete Wardrobe West Port
50a Broughton Street You did not yet find the perfect
dress for tonight? Hard to belie-
Are you looking for something re- ve! But do not worry, you might
ally special manufactured, individual not have a problem in finding a
of high quality for decorating your stylish one here.
home or yourself?
In this shop you can get it – for less
money than you might think.
Prices start from £2.00.
Nonetheless, you have to invest
another 20 - £80 in order to acquire
their beautiful clothes. But that is
worth it!
Joey Ds
50b Broughton Street
Wearing Joey Ds visiona
ry accessories you will stand
out everywhere. Boots and hats rede-
signed into handbags seem to be their
speciality. However, this creativity has
its price and the clothes are less un-
conventional.
30

35. Culture Mainland of north England, a multitu
“Sir Walter Scott’s land of brown heath and de of islands separated by the sea-
shaggy wood, land of mountain and the flood” this is Scotland.
This country is open, uninhabited and
one of the last wildernesses in Europe. Remarkable to be full of contrasts,
dominated by its landscape and its weather Scotland is a good mix
of old and new.
After some three hundred years of political union with England, the Scots
voted to have their own parliament in 1997.
The elected assembly is now sitting in Edinburgh. In times of political as well
as cultural renaissance the Scots are faced with the challenge of redefining
themselves. This important step brings hope and greater dynamics for the
future to the country and its people. Scotland may remain part of Great Bri-
tain but it has always been a country apart.
And indeed the land and the people are in some ways truly different.
About 80 percent of the population live and work in Edinburgh, Glasgow and
between those two big cities.
In the older days South Scotland was the centre for the textile industry but
in our days people are increasingly moving to the big cities for work.
Edinburgh and Glasgow “the principal cities” couldn’t be more different:
Edinburgh, with its incredible charm and stone facades everywhere and
much more compact than Glasgow and, on the other hand, Glasgow, one of
the greatest cities of the colonial empire turned into a modern metropolis.
The Scotland in common travel guides with old castles and romance means
little to the majority of Scots who live in modern urban areas. Much of the
big shipping and fishing industries of Scotland ´s proud industrial past
have, gone anyway.
A country is defined by its people.
Scots continue to enjoy a good reputation around the world. Many of the
stereotypes about Scotland and the Scots contradict the modern reality.
Compared to the English, Scottish people seem more relaxed and optimis-
tic. They are also open and friendly to everyone.
This is particularly evident in the countryside, where it is rude not to take
time to chat to people coming across your way. When, staying in Scotland
you are immediately impressed by the wealth of history that virtually co-
mes out everywhere in the country’s different districts. Edinburgh, with its
granite terraces and churches is only one example of this wealth. It feels
like the city has a story to tell on every
31

36. street corner, where you come across. This link to ancient times attracts visitors from
all over the world.
So history plays an important part in attracting visitors to Scotland.
For many people the image of Scotland ‘s heritage, is packed in a big “tartan pa-
ckage “and can bought in any tourist shop along the Royal Mile in Edinburgh.”
For anyone interested in Scotland and its people it is not easy to understand the cul-
ture and defining a national character is complicated.
The Scots are mostly portrayed, as being open- hearted and generous, courageous,
mean and dour, high- sprited and cynical- all at the same time. Part of the difficulty
lies in the fact, that not all Scots can be seen as one unified „ type“.
Scots come together to celebrate a national festival but are also divided by class and
geography. Whether buying something in a shop or just asking for the way, it is easy
to slip into a conversation with the locals.
The image of the Scots not being best friends with the English Neighbours is an
enduring one and that Scots are proud people is beyond, the doubt.
Traditions that are unique to Scotland have
often survived the country’s past. The best
known is Hogmanay.
Originally an old Celtic festival to ward off evil
spirits with huge bonfires, Hogmanay is now a
massive party held in the New Year.
Another Tradition comes here…
PO
32

37. s
Tarta n Time
nd ‘s
are Scotla
g of the tartan
the wearin
clans and ing symbols.
ion of the ur g peop
le.
The tradit most end h youn ighland
lly wit , funerals, H
specia ings
in vo gue, e t wedd t.
hd ress is , is worn a r a pub nigh e city.
The
nal Scottis k, the tartan st fo er of th
Traditio ’s trademar times ju n every corn
d some to ether t
o
Sco tland y ga mes an Tartan almos en tog
t Rugb u can find sa nd wov
balls, a rgh yo yal Mil
e.
d yarn
bu the Ro rent coloure from.
In Edin ous spot is e choose
am up of diff tte rns to fami-
most f made duct. tive pa ed for
rtan is icoloured pro ber of distinc been reserv rt of th
e
The ta a mult um ave tant pa ion comes
prod uce mber has a n ific tartans h en an impor t
lan me century spec tans have be inspira nd.
Each c of the tla
e 17 th the tar wher e much olour in Sco ting to
S ince th r clan s. But and this is ood c
give g nically, it is only fit ur
es o son ts that n. Tech er or y
o
ly nam s, in any sea ld plan e r moth
Hig hland re a lot of o es deep gre ither on you on’t worry.
here a le, giv me, e d ent
from. T le for examp a clan surna cestry, ays inv
yrt e im clan an o you can alw ile walking
The m ou hav an t cla ns s y wh
an if y ever if you c cent inventio you are luck
we ar tart ow re re t. If
side. H terns a n as kil
father’s ys most pat t typical wor .
aring it th a kilt. e-
da os n we re a lif
In our an is m can see me n undernea they a
n.Tart u ac h, but s Mac-
w
your o Edinburgh yo g is ever wo 00 Pounds e
r such a
ames, eople,
hrough ys that noth cost around
in 3 clans n e tribes of p
t
sa ey et he old we r ame,
Legend ’t cheap. Th till hav e clans ingle family n attle.
e n t Scots s ampbell. Th as nd c
Kilts ar stment. Mos nald or C under Highla
ve do o gether ps and
time in acduff, Mac iving t their own cro e
M land. L , as th
gregor, y blood and est, living of ighbour clan.
f entury
b d e he 18th c
bonded e entirely mo ck by their n rvived into t
r a u
t hey we ey got att nomy only s oll ectors.
ften th uto d tax c
Very o em of local a and kings an at-
s t
This sy s had no law
s , the p
t Andrew indepen-
Highla
nd lises S uggle of
symbo tr
a Sa ltire. It bol for the s
is called sa sym flies in
Flag: otland used a . - also
g of Sc s been 14th century e Union Jack PO
The fla otland. It ha of the - th
ron o f Sc dle gdoms
he mid ed Kin
since t g of the Unit here
dence y, so go t
The na .
tiona l fla
be expla ined easil
d d, cannot
Scotlan
yered a s Scotlan
self.
hat is so multila discover for your
A country t and
33

38. Dean Gallery
and
Gallery of Modern Art
Fog. Leafless trees. Large grey fields of grass. No buildings.
Just a 10 minute walk from Haymarket but you feel like in
a tale of Edgar Ellen Poe. The sound of cars almost silent
somewhere behind me while I am following the path. In the
distance there is a yellow blurry light – like burning letters.
Light to letters, letters to words. Through the thick fog I
read: “There will be no miracles here”. A provoking phrase
that emphasises the interest to explore the huge monumen-
tal building that emerges in front of me.
The Dean Gallery is close to the Gallery of Modern Art and
both are rich and manifold residences of controversial art.
One room and four grey squares on the walls. Coloured
metal plates combined to make an odd sculpture. A crus-
hed violin caught in a cube of glass. Confusing seemingly
senseless film footage. Picasso. Warhol. Dada.
Pseudo art? Genius? Trash? Beautiful?
Even if you do not favour modern art – you will always ask
questions and it always evokes at least some kind of opinion
in you. You decide about the truth of the phrase mentioned
above.
Go for it, it´s free.
WK
34

39. The Really Terrible Orchestra
When really bad turns out to be really
good – and successful
The Really Terrible Orchestra of Edinburgh is the
last refuge for hopeless musicians
With some last shrieks and awkward noises the pie-
ce which is supposed to be Scott Joplin’s “The En-
tertainer” fades out. Were the American composer
around tonight, he probably wouldn’t be too enter-
tained. The four dozen men and women rehearsing
at the Robertson Music Centre in Edinburgh’s West-
end are a really terrible orchestra.
At least, they have the decency to call themselves
The Really Terrible Orchestra (RTO).
It doesn’t require its members to have any musical skills. Just buy an instrument and join! The
Edinburgh based troupe is home to all those who have never managed to play properly, the “last
refuge for the musically disadvantaged”, as current chairwoman Pippa Lockhart puts it. Some
members are just here for the fun, others take it more seriously and want to improve. Most of
them played an instrument as a child, but stopped at some point. Then, after a few years or even
decades, they found it in the attic, blew off the dust and joined the RTO. But some have never
even had any musical experience whatsoever. Take, for example, Dorothy Leeming. “I asked our
conductor if I could join if taking some lessons before.” To which he replied: ”Forget the lessons,
just come”. And he made Dorothy learning 1st double bass immediately. Conductor Richard Ne-
ville Towle, actually Sir Richard Neville Towle – there are still rumours if and why he has been
knighted – stands in front of the musical crescent, swings his arms heavily and puts great effort
into instructing the musicians. But hardly anyone seems to take notice. Most members are too
occupied with the contrarieties of their instruments. Mr Neville Towle is the only professional mu-
sician around here and has been hired by businessman Peter Stevenson and novelist Alexander
McCall Smith who founded the RTO in 1995.
“It started out of envy for our children play-
ing in school orchestras”, Mr Stevenson re-
calls. The two wanted that for themselves,
but were way too bad for real orchestras.
And so the RTO was born. Soon after they
had their first concert at the Edinburgh
Fringe. Yes, they have public appearan-
ces. And quite succesful at that. They pro-
mise bad music, and they deliver reliably.
So far, the RTO has had concerts in Lon-
don and New York, all of which were sold
out. Which is puzzling, especially for for-
eigners. Why do people pay to attend aw-
ful performances? Out of schadenfreude?
For the same reasons they watch horror
movies? The horror of music, if you will?
Music critics from German television to the New York
Times have wondered about the phenomenon. In a
strange sense of irony, the RTO has a music critic in
35

40. its ranks, as well. By day, Susan Nickalls reviews bad musical performances for the
“Scotsman”, by night, she gives, well, bad musical performances. Her colleagues at the
newspaper find her hobby “quite funny”. “It’s really eccentric, really British”, says Felici-
tas MacFie, the self-announced “quota German” of the RTO. “You couldn’t do something
like that in Germany.” Mrs MacFie doesn’t consider herself to be a really terrible musician,
having had lessons for several years. But as a hotel owner and mother of six, she doesn’t
have the time to practise. “Besides, I feel welcome around here.” Probably everybody
does. The relaxed atmosphere within the RTO puts a stark contrast to the tenseness and
competitiveness of ordinary orchestras. Rehearsals are as often interrupted by sudden
laughter as by the conductor.
Before each concert, both the audience and the musicians receive a glass of wine, “be-
cause it’s more fun then”, Mrs Lockhart smiles. At times, there would also be audience
participation of some sort, or a guest speaker would recite verses between the songs.
“People come to see a variety show”, Mr Stevenson sums up.
press photo
Not all pieces tonight are actually terrible. The longer they perform, the better they seem to
become. So does the RTO undermine the basis for its success by too much rehearsing? Will
it have to be rebranded as the “Quite Decent Orchestra”? Chances for that aren’t high. The
orchestra as a whole has probably improved 20 percent since the beginning, Mr Stevenson fi-
gures, starting from a very low level. “So there isn’t any risk that we might become too good
one day.” MB
The RTO regularly performs at the Edinburgh Fringe
Festival in August. For further information see website
www.thereallyterribleorchestra.com
36

41. Forgotten Son of Edinburgh
Economist John Law became the richest man in
the world – but died a pauper
Edinburgh usually celebrates its most eminent sons and
daughters. Economist Adam Smith, for example, has a sta-
tue erected in his honour on Royal Mile and his face on the
Scottish 20 pound note. For some reason they seem to have
skipped on his colleague John Law. “John Who?” Even most
natives of the city reply with astonishment if you ask them
about this early 18th century figure. Which is quite asto-
nishing, too, since John Law was only the inventor of modern
paper money, saved post-Louis XIV France from bankruptcy,
controlled commerce for a great part of North America and
rose to be the richest man in the world, maybe the richest
man of all time, but wound up a pauper and dying alone and
despised in a Venice hotel.
But first things first: Born in Edinburgh in Wilson had been the son of an influential fa-
1671 as the eldest son of the goldsmith and mily and Law was imprisoned again. Howe-
banker William Law, young John grew up at ver, he was able to flee with the help of some
Lauriston Castle, a 16th century Edwardian friends and escape to Amsterdam, where he
mansion in Silverknowles near the Firth of learned banking as a more practical approach.
Forth which today is open to tourists. The Upon returning to Scotland around 1700, Law
boy turned out to be brilliant at mathematics engaged in debates surrounding the Union
and economics, but also knew how to enjoy with England and proposed his plans to The
life. “Beau Law”, as the tall and handsome Scottish Parliament (see box). They were re-
lad was called by his friends, had a love for jected and in 1707 Law had to flee again. Due
the ladies and for gambling. For a great part to the Union the sentence against him became
of his life he would make ends meet by se- valid in Scotland, as well. He toured Europe
parating other people from their fortunes along with his lover Catherine Segnieur and
at a card game called Pharao. At first, not their two children. Catherine was at the time
very successful. Squandering his late father’s still married to another man. “I’m not marri-
inheritance, he had to be bailed out by his ed, but my wife is”, John Law would joke.
mother. After several other rejections he got his chan-
At the age of 20, John Law moved to Lon- ce in France which had been ruined by the
don in order to study mathematics, econo- late “Sun King” Louis XIV’s wars and opulent
mics and political economy. But at night, he lifestyle. The new regent gave a way for Law’s
went on with the hobbies mentioned above. banking project and appointed him Controller
His charm and fine manners soon got him in General of Finances. As such he founded the
touch with the higher circles of society, both Banque Royale which succeeded in reducing
male and female. Not everybody was quite most of the state’s debts and made many
fond of that. On April 9th 1694, Law fought reforms benefitting the common man. The
a duel with a certain Edward Wilson over the thankful regent granted Law the commerce
affections of a woman. Being an excellent monopoly for France’s overseas territories in
fencer Law killed his opponent on the spot. Northern America, Lousiana. Had Law died
He was found guilty of murder and sentenced at this point he might have been considered
to death just three days after the incident. a national hero in France.But his ruin was
Later the accusation was reduced to mans- about to come. Law founded the West Indian
laughter and the sentence commuted to a Company whose shares were affordable for
fine. But his victim’s brother appealed. peasants and servants, as well.
37