Myths and realities

1. “Greener Chemistry for Personal
Care”
York 22nd June 2010
David Elliott -Facilitator

2. A definition
• “Green chemistry, also known as
sustainable chemistry, is the design of
chemical products and processes that
reduce or eliminate the use or generation
of hazardous substances. Green
chemistry applies across the life cycle of a
chemical product, including its design,
manufacture, and use.”
• Source – EPA.

3. Myths and realities
• Need to balance effectiveness/safety.
• Sustainability.
• Mass market – volume.
• Regulatory issues – how many
preservatives are allowed?
• Market drivers. Market trends e.g. Turbo
Beauty/Nu Natural.
• Market power.
• EFSA.

4. Some concerns
• Parabens: preservatives linked to cancer
& skin allergies
• - Petrochemicals: artificially fragrance &
colour products
• Formaldehydes: preservative linked to
asthma &headaches
• - Sodium Laureth Sulphate / Sodium
Lauryl Sulphate:foaming agents known to
cause skin irritations

5. Further concerns
• Mineral oils like silicones linked to
premature ageing and headaches
• - Aluminium salts in deodorants linked to
Alzheimer's disease
• - Phthalates believed to cause hormone
disruption & asthma

6. Research
“An appropriately
designed
cosmetic regimen
can improve facial
wrinkle
appearance
comparably with
the benchmark
prescription
treatment, with
improved
tolerability”

7. Food/drink with beauty
enhancing claims
• Asia leads
• Ex Mintel

8. Supplements with beauty
enhancing claims -Mintel

9. Beauty/food/supplement top
beauty claims-Mintel

10. Product Formulation
• Cyclopentasiloxane, aqua (water, eau), butylene glycol, Dimethicone
crosspolymer, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glycerine, Arabinogalactan, Sodium
ascorbyl phosphate, Magnesium sulphate, Dimethicone copolyol,
Phenoxyethanol, Sodium PCA, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, Hexyl
laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 isosterarate, Retinyl palmitate, Medicago sativa
(Alfalfa) extract, Methylparaben, Propylene glycol, Lupinus albus seed
extract, Butylparaben, Ethyparaben, Carbomer, Propylparaben,
Isobtylparaben, Polysorbate 20, Panax ginseng root extract, Morus alba leaf
extract, Tocopherol, Palmityl ologopeptide, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide -7.
• Hint – a phenomenally successful product!

11. No 7
• A winner!

12. Salcura

13. Aqua, Aqua Minerale/Brine, Maris Sal
(Dead Sea Minerals), Glycerine, Melaleuca
Alternifolia, Hippophaes Rhamnoides,
Leptospermum Scoparium, Santalum
Spicatum, Melaleuca Ericafolia,
Leptospermum Petersonii, Lavendula
Augustifolia, Rosmarinus Officinalis,
Triticum Vulgare, Aloe Barbadensis,
Helianthus Annus.

14. Mass market response?

15. Typical ingredients
• Collagen.
• Co-Q10.
• Grapeseed extract.
• Lutein.
• Lycopene.
• Omegas.
• Vitamins A,C, E.
• Zinc.

16. The Future?
• Vegetable ingredients – super fruits done
to death? Sea buckthorn?
• Durian husks – anti-cellulite?
• Rhodiola? Siberian ginseng? Pycnogenol?
• Oat/cereal based ingredients?
• Will a major global brand ever go fully
natural?
• Marine bioactives? Milk proteins?
• Mushroom extracts?

17. The Yorkshire & Humber Picture

18. Where have we come from?
Objective
“Facilitate the formation of partnerships which
enhance the profitability and competitiveness of
members of the personal care supply chain
(opportunity brokerage!)”
• Momentum still continues to increase – new Companies becoming
engaged all the time! Core activity is the development of new
business opportunities in the UK and Overseas.
• 10 meetings & 5 newsletters (more to come)

19. Where are we now?
• New identity/new framework
(Funded by Yorkshire Forward
managed by YCF).
• This combination is leading to
new openings and an
increasing range of
opportunities.
• Examples include International
collaboration, a wider network,
possibilities of R&D with the
University sector and an
engagement with Croda,
Boots,Reckitt Benckiser, SSL
etc via Open Innovation.

20. Events in 2010
• Numerous UK/export
opportunities flagged to
Companies.
• Major event in Leeds over 100
delegates/overseas speaker.
• Visit to In-Cosmetics 2010 –
7839 visitors. Numerous
contacts some of which have
already led to meetings.
• Activities on behalf of
Universities/Lectures/Links
with Canada/France/Singapore
well established.
• Increasing involvement in
Open Innovation.
• Developing new collaborative
models.

21. Where do we plan to go?
• More events • More formal
• More contacts structure
• More intense • Bigger menu
interventions • Another large
event.