3. ABSTRACT
Seam slippage is one of the most objectionable faults
in case of woven garments and it degrades the product
quality and hampers the brand image of the manufacturer
very badly.
Hence it is very essential to analyse various factors
influencing seam slippage or seam slippage strength for
woven garment and it is also essential to establish
mathematical relationship or co-relation regression between
seam slippage strength and various processing parameters.
Also the mechanical and structural properties of the
woven fabric play an important role in occurrence of seam
slippage in garment.
Therefore it is essential to analyse the influence various
structural properties of the fabric on seam slippage keeping
the other sewing parameters unchanged.
4.
In our present research work fabric sample
are different G.S.M.,cover factor,thickness value
are used and stitched sample are formed using
super imposed seam on single needle lock stitch
machine keeping the embroidery thread , needle
number ,thread tension unchanged, followed by
testing of seam slippage strength for all those
stitch samples.
Mathematical relationship and graphical
analysis are carried out to measure the
dependency and co-relation between seam
slippage strength and the structural parameters
of woven fabric.
5. 2. INTRODUCTION
1. introduction to SEam
A seam is the join where two or more layers of fabrics
are held together with stiches
The noun definition according to the online dictionary:
– 1. Its the 'line' that is formed by sewing together
pieces of cloth.
– 2. Its the stitches used to make such a line.
9. 2. INTRODUCTION TO SEAM SLIPPAGE
Seam slippage is the pulling away or separation of the fabric at
the seam, causing gaps or holes to develop. It involves warp and
weft threads pulling apart, but not yarn breakage.
Seam slippage occurs when the density of the fabrics or
the construction is low, less warp and weft per inch.
Sometimes seam slippage occurs when the finished chemical,
like resin or silicon is added on the surface of the fabric. This
makes the fabric yarns to be more slippery and also reduces
the tensile strength of the fabric.
10. 3. FACTORS AFFECTING TO SEAM SLIPPAGE
Many factors are identified which have direct or
indirect influences on seam slippage like fabric
density (picks per inch and ends per inch), shrinkage
of the fabric, SPI or stitch density, weight of the
fabric, rpm of the machine, GSM of the fabric ,
cover factor of the fabric etc.
Seam slippage occurs on woven fabric, when yarns
slide together along other yarns or a line of
stitching.
Seam slippage occurs with a low stitch count,
insufficient tension on threads, or improper stitch
and seam selection
11.
Slippage will more likely to occur in fabrics
that have filament yarns, low counts and
unbalanced weave.
Seam slippage may also be affected by stitch
type and size, tension, seam type and size, thread
used for sewing and excessive use of fabric
lubricant.
Some yarns are highly twisted, smooth, and
slippery making them more prone to slippage.
12.
Sizing applied in manufacturing sometimes
help stabilize the
fabric, but may be adversely
affected by moisture and perspiration. Breakup of
the sizing will occur during the agitation
necessary for dry cleaning.
Seams may be sewn or constructed
improperly with insufficient stitches per inch.
Very shallow seam allowances may have been
used. Strain on the fabric at the seams will allow
slippage to take place.
If the item is an extremely tight fit, excessive
stress and strain occurs during wear.
13. 2. LITERATURE REVIEW
1). According to Ms. Anita a Desai [02 ], this paper represents the Seam
•
strength and Seam slippage of fabrics. Different types of stitches and different
types of sewing thread s and their affect, construction on the above mentioned
properties have also been reviewed.
The five major contributors to seam strength include:–
–
–
–
–
•
•
1. Fabric type and weight.
2. Thread type and size.
3. Stitch and seam construction.
4. Stitches per inch.
5. Stitch balance.
Below is one formula that was developed for estimating the seam strength on
woven fabrics.
SPI* Thread Strength* 1.5 = Estimated seam strength (for lockstitch 301).
14. Seam slippage also depends upon different force like breaking force of
rupture, a minimum elongation, or both are required to determine the sewn seam
slippage, or seam integrity of a fabric for a specified end use.
•
So a thorough knowledge of different types of stitches, analyze the different
parameters of sewing thread and also different types of sewing threads and their
affect o is required for the garment manufacturing process. Also this paper reviews
about thread construction, twist, application, size and other parameters.
2).
According to Bharani M., Shiyamaladevi P.S.S. and Mahendra Gowda
R.V [03], In the present work, the quality of fabric samples was controlled, now the
garment longevity depends on the seam parameters like various factors such as
seam strength, seam slippage, seam puckering and yarn severance.
•
In the present work, fabrics of different blend proportions i.e., cotton and
was prepared with different woven structures like plain, twill, satin. These fabrics
were treated with fabric softener like silicone.
• The fabric samples of plain weave were found to have greater seam performance
than the twill and satin. Various other factors influencing the seam strength and
seam slippage are also discussed in detail. The final observation table as per there
is as furnished below :-
15. Table no. :- 1
Cotton-Plain Fabric Seam Slippage (6.0mm seam opening)
Breaking Load at 6.0 mm opening (Kgf)
Sl. No.
Warp
Seam Opening(mm)
Weft
Weft
Warp
With
Finish
Without
Finish
With
Finish
Without
Finish
With
Finish
Without
Finish
With
Finish
Without
Finish
1
9.2
8.1
19.9
19.3
6
6
1.3
3.7
2
8.5
8.2
20
19.4
6
6
3.2
2.6
3
8.6
8.2
19.8
19.5
6
6
1.9
5.4
Mean
8.8
8.2
19.9
19.4
6
6
2.1
3.9
16. 3). According to( Behera, 1997b; Kothari, 1999), Seam slippage is expressed as the
transverse ratio of seam strength to fabric strength including the ratio of
elongation of fabric to the ratio of elongation at the seam. Any movements of
warp & weft yarns away from a seam line under transverse stresses exacerbate the
potential slippage.
4). According to (Behera et al., 1997a; Behera & Sharma, 1998; Tarafdar et al.,
2005; Gurada, 2008) have suggested measuring seam slippage according to the
ASTM 1683-04 standard for evaluation of seam quality. In this standard, the force
required for slippage of 0.6mm of seam has been determined.
The measurement of seam slippage from the ASTM 1683-04 standard is well
established as an international standard and most apparel industries follow this
method to evaluate seam slippage.
22. Table for calculation of exponential equation for GSM(x1) vs. Seam slippage
strength(y0)
The exponential equation is Y0=abX1
Taking logarithm of both the sides with base 10
log Y0 = log a + (x1)log b
ASSUMING log Y0 = Y , log a = A , log b = B , we have Y =BX1 + A
X12
X1
Y0
Y=logY0
Y*X1
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
73.90
64.60
217.60
104.60
274.00
64.30
129.45
4.85
4.07
5.97
4.28
7.80
3.95
4.70
0.6857
0.6096
0.7757
0.6314
0.8921
0.5966
0.6721
5461.21
50.6763
4173.16
39.3798
47349.76 168.7992
10941.16
66.0490
75076
244.4339
4134.49
38.3612
16757.3025 87.0031
8
TOTAL
240.90
1169.35
7.19
0.8567
5.7200
58032.81
221925.89
206.3860
901.0885
As per description the equations
according to fitting normal curve by least
square method are
8A + 1169.35B = 5.7200
1169.35A + 221925.89B = 901.0885
By solving this above two equation
we get,
Y0=1.54*1.003X1------------(1.2)
23. Table for calculation of exponential equation for GSM(x1) vs. Seam slippage
strength(y0)
The exponential equation is Y0=aX1b
Taking logarithm of both the sides with base 10
log Y0 = log a + blogX1
Assuming log Y0 = Y , log a = A , logX1 = X , we have Y =BX + A
Using fitting exponential curve we get the following table
SL. No.
X1
Y0
X=logX1
Y=logY0
X2
Y*X
1
73.90
4.85
1.87
0.6857
3.491832037
1.2814
2
64.60
4.07
1.81
0.6096
3.276941769
1.1035
3
217.60
5.97
2.34
0.7757
5.464649091
1.8134
4
104.60
4.28
2.02
0.6314
4.078508225
1.2752
5
274.00
7.80
2.44
0.8921
5.942627807
2.1747
As per description the
equations according to fitting
normal curve by least square
method are
8A + 16.78B = 5.7200
16.78A + 35.66B = 12.1871
6
64.30
3.95
1.81
0.5966
3.269626923
1.0788
7
129.45
4.70
2.11
0.6721
4.46097509
1.4195
8
240.90
7.19
2.38
0.8567
5.673146542
2.0406
16.78
5.7200
35.66
12.1871
TOTAL
By solving this above two
equation we get
Y0=0.75*X12.51------------(1.3)
25. Table for calculation of exponential equation for cover factor(x2) vs.
Seam slippage strength(y0)
The exponential equation is y0=abx2
Taking logarithm of both the sides with base 10
Log Y0 = log a + (x2)logb
Assuming log Y0 = Y , log a = A , log b = B , we have Y =BX2 + A
X2
Y0
Y=logY0
X22
Y*X2
1
20.56
4.85
0.6857
422.58889
14.0968
2
18.46
4.07
0.6096
340.79331
11.2535
3
18.83
5.97
0.7757
354.38686
14.6033
4
20.96
4.28
0.6314
439.41126
13.2364
8A + 154.80B = 5.7200
5
21.55
7.80
0.8921
464.55984
19.2279
154.80A + 3062.66B = 112.3232
6
12.97
3.95
0.5966
168.19675
7.7373
7
18.23
4.70
0.6721
332.17438
12.2494
8
23.25
7.19
0.8567
540.54837
19.9187
TOTAL
154.80
5.7200
3062.66
112.3232
As per description the equations
according to fitting normal curve by least
square method are
By solving this above two equation
we get,
Y0=1.76*1.06X2------------(2.2)
26. Table for calculation of exponential equation for cover factor(x2) vs. Seam
slippage strength(y0)
Using fitting exponential curve we get the following table
The exponential equation is y0=ax2b
Taking logarithm of both the sides with base 10
Log y0 = log a + blogx2
Assuming log y0 = y , log a = a , logx2 = x , we have y =bx + a
SL. No.
X2
Y0
X=logX2
Y=logY0
X2
Y*X
1
20.56
4.85
1.31
0.6857
1.723861
0.9004
2
18.46
4.07
1.27
0.6096
1.603378
0.7719
3
18.83
5.97
1.27
0.7757
1.624959
0.9889
4
20.96
4.28
1.32
0.6314
1.746192
0.8344
As per description the equations
according to fitting normal curve
by least square method are
8A + 10.25B = 5.7200
5
21.55
7.80
1.33
0.8921
1.778278
1.1896
6
12.97
3.95
1.11
0.5966
1.238566
0.6640
7
18.23
4.70
1.26
0.6721
1.589322
0.8473
8
23.25
7.19
1.37
0.8567
1.867096
1.1706
10.25
5.7200
13.17
7.3671
10.25A + 13.17B = 7.3671
TOTAL
By solving this above two
equation we get
Y0=0.27*X210------------(2.3)
28. Table for calculation of exponential equation constants (series 1) for
thickness(x3) vs. Seam slippage strength(y0)
The exponential equation is y0=abx3
Taking logarithm of both the sides with base 10
Log y0 = log a + (x3)logb
Assuming log y0 = y , log a = a , log b = b , we have y =bx3 + a
X3
Y0
Y=logY0
X32
Y*X3
1
0.12
4.85
0.6857
0.013225
0.0789
2
0.11
4.07
0.6096
0.0121
0.0671
3
0.36
5.97
0.7757
0.126025
0.2754
4
0.16
4.28
0.6314
0.0256
0.1010
8A + 1.87B = 5.7200
5
0.37
7.80
0.8921
0.133225
0.3256
1.87A +0.5527 B = 1.4268
6
0.09
3.95
0.5966
0.007225
0.0507
7
0.30
4.70
0.6721
0.087025
0.1983
8
0.39
7.19
0.8567
0.148225
0.3298
TOTAL
1.87
5.7200
0.5527
1.4268
As per description the equations
according to fitting normal curve by least
square method are
By solving this above two equation
we get,
Y0=3.42*5.96X3------------(3.2)
29. Table for calculation of exponential equation constants (series 1) for
thickness(x3) vs. Seam slippage strength(y0)
Using fitting exponential curve we get the following table
The exponential equation is y0=ax3b
Taking logarithm of both the sides with base 10
Log y0 = log a + blogx3
Assuming log y0 = y , log a = a , logx3 = x , we have y =bx + a
SL. No.
X3
Y0
X=logX3
Y=logY0
X2
Y*X
1
0.12
4.85
-0.94
0.6857
0.882289
-0.6441
2
0.11
4.07
-0.96
0.6096
0.918928
-0.5844
3
0.36
5.97
-0.45
0.7757
0.202295
-0.3489
4
0.16
4.28
-0.80
0.6314
0.633425
-0.5026
As per description the equations
according to fitting normal curve
by least square method are
8A -5.6B = 5.7200
5
0.37
7.80
-0.44
0.8921
0.191588
-0.3905
6
0.09
3.95
-1.07
0.5966
1.146144
-0.6387
7
0.30
4.70
-0.53
0.6721
0.281089
-0.3563
8
0.39
7.19
-0.41
0.8567
0.171843
-0.3551
-5.60
5.7200
4.43
-3.8206
5.6A - 4.43B = 3.8206
TOTAL
By solving this above two
equation we get
Y0=9.27X32.29------------(3.3)
31. Table for calculation of exponential equation constants (series 1) for
(GSM*cover factor) (x1*x2) vs. Seam slippage strength(y0)
The exponential equation is y0=abxgc
Taking logarithm of both the sides with base 10
Log y0 = log a + (xgc)logb
Assuming log y0 = y , log a = a , log b = b , we have y =bxgc + a
XGC
Y0
Y=logY0
XGC2
Y*XGC
1
1519.16
4.85
0.6857
2307847.106
1041.7514
2
1192.55
4.07
0.6096
1422175.503
726.9718
3
4096.36
5.97
0.7757
16780165.25
3177.6766
8A + 23700.48B = 5.7200
4
2192.64
4.28
0.6314
4807670.17
1384.5289
23700.48A + 97826420.8B = 18480.9773
5
5905.70
7.80
0.8921
34877292.49
5268.4431
6
833.91
3.95
0.5966
695405.8881
497.5083
7
2359.31
4.70
0.6721
5566343.676
1585.6872
8
5600.85
7.19
0.8567
31369520.72
4798.4100
TOTAL
23700.48
5.7200
97826420.80
18480.9773
As per description the equations
according to fitting normal curve by least
square method are
By solving this above two equation
we get,
Y0=3.67*1.0001XGC------------(4.2)
32. Table for calculation of exponential equation constants (series 1) for
(GSM*cover factor) (x1*x2) vs. Seam slippage strength(y0)
Using fitting exponential curve we get the following table
The exponential equation is y0=axgcb
Taking logarithm of both the sides with base 10
Log y0 = log a + blogxgc
Assuming log y0 = y , log a = a , logxgc = x , we have y =bx + a
SL. No.
XGC
Y0
X=logXGC
Y=logY0
X2
Y*X
1
1519.16 4.85
3.18
0.6857
10.1226
2.1818
2
1192.55 4.07
3.08
0.6096
9.464708
1.8754
3
4096.36 5.97
3.61
0.7757
13.04942
2.8023
4
2192.64 4.28
3.34
0.6314
11.16206
As per description the equations
according to fitting normal curve
by least square method are
2.1096
8A + 27.02B = 5.7200
5
5905.70 7.80
3.77
0.8921
14.22249
3.3643
6
833.91
3.95
2.92
0.5966
8.532937
1.7427
7
2359.31 4.70
3.37
0.6721
11.37568
2.2668
8
5600.85 7.19
3.75
0.8567
14.04941
3.2112
27.02
5.7200
91.98
19.5542
27.02A + 91.98B = 19.5542
TOTAL
By solving this above two
equation we get
Y0=0.37XGC2.19------------(4.3)
34. Table for calculation of exponential equation constants (series 1) for
(GSM*thickness)(x1*x3) vs. Seam slippage strength(y0)
The exponential equation is y0=abxgt
Taking logarithm of both the sides with base 10
Log Y0 = log a + (xgt)logb
ASSUMING log Y0 = Y , log a = A , log b = B , we have Y =BXGT + A
XGT
Y0
Y=logY0
XGT2
Y*XGT
1
8.50
4.85
0.6857
72.233001
5.8281
2
7.11
4.07
0.6096
50.495236
4.3318
3
77.25
5.97
0.7757
5967.2535
59.9237
8A + 346B = 5.7200
4
16.74
4.28
0.6314
280.093696
10.5678
346A + 26462.28B = 278.2560
5
100.01
7.80
0.8921
10002.0001
89.2184
6
5.47
3.95
0.5966
29.877156
3.2610
7
38.19
4.70
0.6721
1458.32334
25.6661
8
92.75
7.19
0.8567
8602.00601
79.4590
TOTAL
346.00
5.7200
26462.28
278.2560
As per description the equations
according to fitting normal curve by least
square method are
By solving this above two equation we
get,
Y0=3.97*1.006XGT------------(5.2)
35. Table for calculation of exponential equation for (GSM*thickness) (x1*x3) vs.
Seam slippage strength(y0)
Using fitting exponential curve we get the following table
The exponential equation is y0=axgtb
Taking logarithm of both the sides with base 10
Log y0 = log a + blogxgt
Assuming log y0 = y , log a = a , logxgt = x , we have y =bx + a
SL. No.
XGT
Y0
X=logXGT
Y=logY0
X2
Y*X
1
8.50
4.85
0.93
0.6857
0.863724562
0.6373
2
7.11
4.07
0.85
0.6096
0.725265487
0.5191
3
77.25
5.97
1.89
0.7757
3.564118246
1.4645
4
16.74
4.28
1.22
0.6314
1.497323403
0.7727
As per description the equations
according to fitting normal curve
by least square method are
8A + 11.18B = 5.7200
5
100.01
7.80
2.00
0.8921
4.000173711
1.7842
6
5.47
3.95
0.74
0.5966
0.544156479
0.4401
7
38.19
4.70
1.58
0.6721
2.502492761
1.0632
8
92.75
7.19
1.97
0.8567
3.870268782
1.6854
11.18
5.7200
17.57
8.3666
11.18A + 17.57B = 8.3666
TOTAL
By solving this above two
equation we get
Y0=2.83*XGT1.54------------(5.3)
37. 8. CONCLUSION
Seam slippage is a commonly occurred fault that degrades the
quality & reduce commercial value of the garment.so it is essential
to define seam slippage accurately as a function of different
parameters.
In the present project work seam slippage strength is analyzed
as a function of different fabric parameter so that seam slippage
can be controlled by changing fabric parameter accordingly. In the
present study the fabric parameters i.e. GSM, cover factor,
thickness are considered as the input parameters.
GSM :- in our observation & analysis we found an excellent
correlation between seam slippage strength with GSM with a value
of 0.956 (table no:- 6) which tells that fabric with higher GSM
gives higher seam slippage strength .It is explained by the fact that
fabric with higher GSM have more compactness & hence generates
higher degree of frictional force.
38. Cover factor: - in case of cover factor we found poor correlation with
value 0.33(table no: - 7) with seam slippage strength which indicates
that the influence of cover factor as an individual parameter. But the
product of GSM & cover factor shows a nice cc with value 0.97 (table
no: - 9) which indicates these two parameters must be used in
combination.
Thickness :- in case of thickness we found nice correlation with
value 0.86( table no:- 8) with seam slippage strength which indicates
that the thicker fabric shows higher seam slippage strength mostly
due to higher surface contact & frictional cohesion with the sewing
thread. We also got an excellent cc with value 0.95(table no: - 10)
between (GSM*thickness) & seam slippage strength.
39. In our present study it is highlighted that significance of fabric GSM on
seam slippage strength is most prominent one compare to cover factor,
thickness. Several empirical equations are developed for the prediction
of seam slippage strength. The equation no. 4.1 can be used for further
progress in this research since this equation is based upon maximum
correlation.
Further work:1. Our further plan is to make a multiple regression analysis taking all
the input i.e. GSM, cover factor, thickness & develop an empirical
equation taking seam slippage strength as a function of GSM, cover
factor, thickness.
2. It is plan to evaluate the prediction capacities of all those equation
derived by taking some sample and calculation of standard error.
3. Our plan is to develop a computer program me algorithm based
upon the most suitable empirical relationship for prediction of seam
slippage strength.
40. 9. REFERENCE
•
1: Multiple Regression
Link:- http://cameron.econ.ucdavis.edu/excel/ex01access.html
• 2: Effect of stitches SPI & sewing threads on minimizing seam slippage on fabrics.
By: Anita A Desai.
• Link: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/technology-industryarticle/practical-solutions-to-seam-puckering.asp
• 3:- Characterization of Seam Strength and Seam Slippage on Cotton fabric with
woven Structures and Finish.
By:- Bharani M., Shiyamaladevi P.S.S. and Mahendra Gowda R.V. on Research
Journal of Engineering Sciences Vol. 1(2), 41-50, August (2012)
Link:- www.isca.in/IJES/Archive/v1i2/6.ISCA-JEngS-2012-046.pdf
• 4:- According to (Sumit Mandal, Degree of Master of Philosophy under The Hong
Kong Polytechnic University)
Link:- http://cameron.econ.ucdavis.edu/excel/ex01access.html