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PHOTOGRAPHY 
COMPOSITIONS
Rule of Thirds 
Imagine that your image is divided into 
9 equal segments by 2 vertical and 2 
horizontal lines. The rule of thirds says 
that you should position the most 
important elements in your scene along 
these lines, or at the points where they 
intersect.
Balance 
Placing your main subject off-center, as 
with the rule of thirds, creates a more 
interesting photo, but it can leave a void in 
the scene which can make it feel empty. You 
should balance the "weight" of your subject 
by including another object of lesser 
importance to fill the space.
Leading Lines 
When we look at a photo our eye is naturally drawn along 
lines. By thinking about how you place lines in your 
composition, you can affect the way we view the image, pulling 
us into the picture, towards the subject, or on a journey 
"through" the scene. There are many different types of line - 
straight, diagonal, curvy, zigzag, radial etc - and each can be 
used to enhance our photo's composition.
Symmetry and Patterns 
We are surrounded by symmetry and patterns, both natural 
and man-made., They can make for very eye-catching 
compositions, particularly in situations where they are not 
expected. Another great way to use them is to break the 
symmetry or pattern in some way, introducing tension and a 
focal point to the scene.
Viewpoint 
Before photographing your subject, take time to 
think about where you will shoot it from. Our 
viewpoint has a massive impact on the 
composition of our photo, and as a result it can 
greatly affect the message that the shot conveys. 
Rather than just shooting from eye level, 
consider photographing from high above, down 
at ground level, from the side, from the back, 
from a long way away, from very close up, and so
Background 
How many times have you taken what you thought 
would be a great shot, only to find that the final image 
lacks impact because the subject blends into a busy 
background? The human eye is excellent at 
distinguishing between different elements in a scene, 
whereas a camera has a tendency to flatten the 
foreground and background, and this can often ruin an 
otherwise great photo. Thankfully this problem is 
usually easy to overcome at the time of shooting - look 
around for a plain and unobtrusive background and 
compose your shot so that it doesn't distract or detract
Don’t just concentrate on your subject – 
look at what’s happening in the 
background, too. This ties in with 
simplifying the scene and filling the frame. 
You can’t usually exclude the background 
completely, of course, but you can control it.
Depth 
Because photography is a two-dimensional medium, 
we have to choose our composition carefully to conveys 
the sense of depth that was present in the actual 
scene. You can create depth in a photo by including 
objects in the foreground, middle ground and 
background. Another useful composition technique is 
overlapping, where you deliberately partially obscure 
one object with another. The human eye naturally 
recognises these layers and mentally separates them 
out, creating an image with more depth.
Framing 
The world is full of objects which make perfect 
natural frames, such as trees, archways and 
holes. By placing these around the edge of the 
composition you help to isolate the main subject 
from the outside world. The result is a more 
focused image which draws your eye naturally to 
the main point of interest.
Cropping 
Often a photo will lack impact because the main 
subject is so small it becomes lost among the 
clutter of its surroundings. By cropping tight 
around the subject you eliminate the 
background "noise", ensuring the subject gets 
the viewer's undivided attention.
Experimentation 
With the dawn of the digital age in photography 
we no longer have to worry about film 
processing costs or running out of shots. As a 
result, experimenting with our photos' 
composition has become a real possibility; we 
can fire off tons of shots and delete the 
unwanted ones later at absolutely no extra cost. 
Take advantage of this fact and experiment with 
your composition - you never know whether an 
idea will work until you try it.
Use diagonals 
Horizontal lines lend a static, calm feel to a 
picture, while vertical ones often suggest 
permanence and stability. To introduce a 
feeling of drama, movement or uncertainty, 
look for diagonal lines instead.
Simplify the scene 
When you look at a scene with your naked eye, your 
brain quickly picks out subjects of interest. But the 
camera doesn’t discriminate – it captures everything 
in front of it, which can lead to a cluttered, messy 
picture with no clear focal point. 
What you need to do is choose your subject, then select 
a focal length or camera viewpoint that makes it the 
centre of attention in the frame. You can’t always keep 
other objects out of the picture, so try to keep them in 
the background or make them part of the story. 
Silhouettes, textures and patterns are all devices that 
work quite well in simple compositions.
Portrait composition
01: Wide shot
• Wide shots throw up more variables than close-ups, offering 
both a challenge and an opportunity to capture your subject 
in an environment that perhaps reflects their work or 
personality. 
• As a rule, position subjects on a third. Use lines, shapes and 
frames to lead the eye around the image, and scan the edges 
of the frame before you take your shot to check for any 
distractions. 
• Try out different angles and camera heights too: by crouching 
down or standing on a chair, for example, you can make your 
subject or the background look markedly different.
02: Top half
Cropping a subject at the waist or chest allows 
for a tighter composition that brings two of a 
portrait’s most important elements to the fore: 
eyes and hands. 
With this approach there’s usually a 50/50 split 
between subject and background. 
Try to find an uncluttered background and use a 
wide aperture to throw it out of focus. When 
positioning the head in the frame, one of the 
most effective compositional skills you can learn 
is also one of the simplest: don’t place subjects in 
the centre. Think about posing too: here the 
arms lead towards the subject’s eyes.
03: Head and shoulders
• Amateur portraits often suffer from ‘dead-space 
syndrome’, because the photographer hasn’t filled the 
frame by cropping in tight on the subject’s face. 
• For a successful head and shoulders portrait, fill the 
frame with the face, and aim to place the eyes on the 
top third. 
• Don’t worry about including the top of the head, 
portraits often look stronger with a dynamic crop into 
the forehead. 
• Also use a long lens: facial features will be 
compressed and thus more flattering, the background 
will be thrown out of focus, and you won’t have to 
crowd your subject.
04: Tight close-up
Extreme close-ups focus entirely on the face, so 
they’re ideal if you want to convey a mood or 
feeling. For great close-ups, crop in tight on the 
face (or even another body part) and exclude the 
background entirely. 
Use hair to frame the face, and think about the 
position and look of the eyes in the image. You 
can go for a piercing stare or take a more subtle 
approach and ask your subject to look down. 
Focusing also becomes more crucial: focus 
precisely on the eyes, and if necessary select the 
focusing point manually.
hank you...

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Photography Compositions

  • 2. Rule of Thirds Imagine that your image is divided into 9 equal segments by 2 vertical and 2 horizontal lines. The rule of thirds says that you should position the most important elements in your scene along these lines, or at the points where they intersect.
  • 3.
  • 4. Balance Placing your main subject off-center, as with the rule of thirds, creates a more interesting photo, but it can leave a void in the scene which can make it feel empty. You should balance the "weight" of your subject by including another object of lesser importance to fill the space.
  • 5.
  • 6. Leading Lines When we look at a photo our eye is naturally drawn along lines. By thinking about how you place lines in your composition, you can affect the way we view the image, pulling us into the picture, towards the subject, or on a journey "through" the scene. There are many different types of line - straight, diagonal, curvy, zigzag, radial etc - and each can be used to enhance our photo's composition.
  • 7.
  • 8.
  • 9.
  • 10. Symmetry and Patterns We are surrounded by symmetry and patterns, both natural and man-made., They can make for very eye-catching compositions, particularly in situations where they are not expected. Another great way to use them is to break the symmetry or pattern in some way, introducing tension and a focal point to the scene.
  • 11.
  • 12. Viewpoint Before photographing your subject, take time to think about where you will shoot it from. Our viewpoint has a massive impact on the composition of our photo, and as a result it can greatly affect the message that the shot conveys. Rather than just shooting from eye level, consider photographing from high above, down at ground level, from the side, from the back, from a long way away, from very close up, and so
  • 13.
  • 14. Background How many times have you taken what you thought would be a great shot, only to find that the final image lacks impact because the subject blends into a busy background? The human eye is excellent at distinguishing between different elements in a scene, whereas a camera has a tendency to flatten the foreground and background, and this can often ruin an otherwise great photo. Thankfully this problem is usually easy to overcome at the time of shooting - look around for a plain and unobtrusive background and compose your shot so that it doesn't distract or detract
  • 15.
  • 16.
  • 17.
  • 18. Don’t just concentrate on your subject – look at what’s happening in the background, too. This ties in with simplifying the scene and filling the frame. You can’t usually exclude the background completely, of course, but you can control it.
  • 19. Depth Because photography is a two-dimensional medium, we have to choose our composition carefully to conveys the sense of depth that was present in the actual scene. You can create depth in a photo by including objects in the foreground, middle ground and background. Another useful composition technique is overlapping, where you deliberately partially obscure one object with another. The human eye naturally recognises these layers and mentally separates them out, creating an image with more depth.
  • 20.
  • 21. Framing The world is full of objects which make perfect natural frames, such as trees, archways and holes. By placing these around the edge of the composition you help to isolate the main subject from the outside world. The result is a more focused image which draws your eye naturally to the main point of interest.
  • 22.
  • 23. Cropping Often a photo will lack impact because the main subject is so small it becomes lost among the clutter of its surroundings. By cropping tight around the subject you eliminate the background "noise", ensuring the subject gets the viewer's undivided attention.
  • 24.
  • 25. Experimentation With the dawn of the digital age in photography we no longer have to worry about film processing costs or running out of shots. As a result, experimenting with our photos' composition has become a real possibility; we can fire off tons of shots and delete the unwanted ones later at absolutely no extra cost. Take advantage of this fact and experiment with your composition - you never know whether an idea will work until you try it.
  • 26.
  • 27. Use diagonals Horizontal lines lend a static, calm feel to a picture, while vertical ones often suggest permanence and stability. To introduce a feeling of drama, movement or uncertainty, look for diagonal lines instead.
  • 28.
  • 29.
  • 30. Simplify the scene When you look at a scene with your naked eye, your brain quickly picks out subjects of interest. But the camera doesn’t discriminate – it captures everything in front of it, which can lead to a cluttered, messy picture with no clear focal point. What you need to do is choose your subject, then select a focal length or camera viewpoint that makes it the centre of attention in the frame. You can’t always keep other objects out of the picture, so try to keep them in the background or make them part of the story. Silhouettes, textures and patterns are all devices that work quite well in simple compositions.
  • 31.
  • 32.
  • 35. • Wide shots throw up more variables than close-ups, offering both a challenge and an opportunity to capture your subject in an environment that perhaps reflects their work or personality. • As a rule, position subjects on a third. Use lines, shapes and frames to lead the eye around the image, and scan the edges of the frame before you take your shot to check for any distractions. • Try out different angles and camera heights too: by crouching down or standing on a chair, for example, you can make your subject or the background look markedly different.
  • 37. Cropping a subject at the waist or chest allows for a tighter composition that brings two of a portrait’s most important elements to the fore: eyes and hands. With this approach there’s usually a 50/50 split between subject and background. Try to find an uncluttered background and use a wide aperture to throw it out of focus. When positioning the head in the frame, one of the most effective compositional skills you can learn is also one of the simplest: don’t place subjects in the centre. Think about posing too: here the arms lead towards the subject’s eyes.
  • 38. 03: Head and shoulders
  • 39. • Amateur portraits often suffer from ‘dead-space syndrome’, because the photographer hasn’t filled the frame by cropping in tight on the subject’s face. • For a successful head and shoulders portrait, fill the frame with the face, and aim to place the eyes on the top third. • Don’t worry about including the top of the head, portraits often look stronger with a dynamic crop into the forehead. • Also use a long lens: facial features will be compressed and thus more flattering, the background will be thrown out of focus, and you won’t have to crowd your subject.
  • 41. Extreme close-ups focus entirely on the face, so they’re ideal if you want to convey a mood or feeling. For great close-ups, crop in tight on the face (or even another body part) and exclude the background entirely. Use hair to frame the face, and think about the position and look of the eyes in the image. You can go for a piercing stare or take a more subtle approach and ask your subject to look down. Focusing also becomes more crucial: focus precisely on the eyes, and if necessary select the focusing point manually.