Soap is made through a chemical reaction between oils/fats and lye. This reaction, called saponification, converts the oils/fats into soap and glycerin. Homemade soap has benefits over store-bought varieties such as containing glycerin and being free of harsh detergents. Lye is dangerous if mishandled but can be used safely with proper precautions like gloves, goggles and slowly mixing it with water. Soap can be made through blending the ingredients, which speeds up the trace stage compared to stirring by hand. The blended soap mixture is then poured into molds to harden.

1. SOAP

2. HOW TO PREPARE SOAP
By
Prof . AJAL A. J
Head of Academics

3. HOW IS SOAP MADE?
 Because soap is made by this
reaction, the reaction is sometimes
called “saponification”
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fuu1ZCg5byg
• Soaps are made by a chemical reaction between fats/oils and
sodium hydroxide (“lye”).
• Chemical Reaction:
Fat or Oil + NaOH  Soap + Glycerol
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZ8wE
c53c8c
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GeE8n
7J1dEQ

5. BACK TO SCIENCE 10…
 Recall that when you mix an acid and a base, a salt
results:
Acid + Base  Salt + Water
 This is actually how soap is made.
 Oils and fats (also called triglycerides) are acids
 Sodium hydroxide (lye) is written NaOH and is a
base
 Soap is a salt that results when the two react
 Interestingly, we use soap to cleanse grease and
oils from our skin, but soap is made from grease &
oils!
This is a reminder that when a chemical reaction
occurs, completely different substances are created!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZ8wEc53c8c

6. THE STRUCTURE OF SOAP
• You start with a fat
molecule, which
contains:
• H – hydrogen
• C – carbon
• O – oxygen
• Fat molecules are also
called “triglycerides”.
They have three
identical arms, which is
where the “tri” comes
from
A fat molecule (a.k.a. a triglyceride)
• The various fats & oils that can be used in soapmaking
all have this basic structure.

7. Saponification Reaction:
ACID BASE SALT
Fat or Oil + NaOH  Soap + Glycerol
(Triglyceride) (lye or
sodium hydroxide)
CH2 – OH
CH – OH
CH2 – OH
+  +

8. THINGS TO BE AWARE OF BEFORE MAKING SOAP:
LYE
Lye (NaOH) is a key ingredient in the
production of soap. Through a
chemical reaction it converts oils and
fats to what we know as soap. Lye is
in drain openers (Drano, etc.)
because it can clear clogs by
converting greasy buildups into
something that can be rinsed away.
Lye is a strong base and is corrosive. It
can burn you, blind you, and kill you if
ingested. Lye should be handled with
care, like you would handle drain
cleaner, bleach or pool chemicals.

9. Working with lye:
1. Wear long gloves and goggles.
2. Be aware that your clothes can get wrecked if splashed with lye.
3. In making soap, you will have to mix lye and water. Never pour water into
lye. Always pour lye into water (s l o w l y). If you pour water onto lye it
can cause a violent reaction.
4. Always pour, stir, and handle lye gently, to avoid splashing and spilling.
5. Always know where your lye is, to keep it from being mistaken for
something else (e.g., water, which is also used in soapmaking).
6. Have a “lye sink”, where stuff that contacted lye will be washed. Then
people will know not to use that sink except with gloves.
7. Wash utensils/bowls that came in contact with lye soon after using, so it
will not be touched/used mistakenly by someone else.
8. Do not touch utensils/bowls from others’ areas or use clear liquids that may
not be yours. You may be unknowingly coming into contact with lye!
9. Do not inhale lye fumes. Work outside or use a fume hood.

10. THINGS TO BE AWARE OF BEFORE MAKING SOAP:
THERE ARE MANY OILS TO CHOOSE
FROM
 Different fats or oils produce soap with different qualities.
 Examples:

11. THINGS TO BE AWARE OF BEFORE MAKING SOAP:
TRACE
 When mixing your fats with the lye-water mixture to make soap, it is
important not to overmix or undermix. The trick is to STOP mixing at
the moment of “trace.”
 Watch this video:
http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/coldprocesssoapmaking/g/glosstrac
e.htm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tu_sWoHULtY

12. SOAP – INGREDIENTS
Oil or Fats - Almost any natural oil or animal fat can be
turned into soap.
Lye (NaOH - Sodium Hydroxide) - The ingredient that
converts the oil or fat to soap.
Water - Preferably distilled water or bottled water.
Minerals in hard tap water aren't good for
soapmaking.
Essential and Fragrance Oils - These are not required,
but can add a nice fragrance to your soap.
Soap Colorants – To color the soap.
Other additives - Oatmeal, spices, herbs etc. can also be
added to add texture or for exfoliation.

13. OTHER MATERIALS
MOLDS:
• A wooden or cardboard box lined with saran wrap
• Candy molds
• A PVC pipe capped on one end (spray the inside with
PAM, pour the solution into the pipe, let it set, and
then uncap and push out the soap).
• Silicone bakeware
• Lego!
• Yogurt containers, plastic containers, ice cream
containers, tupperware, pringles boxes, etc.
BLENDER:
• Soap can be stirred by hand, but can take a really long
time for the chemical reaction to happen
• It is much easier to use a stick blender or actual
blender. It only takes seconds or minutes to reach
trace.

14. Soap - Introduction
How Soap is made
Soap is made by mixing lye and water with fats or oil. Through a complex
chemical reaction lye which is also called sodium hydroxide (a base) converts
Fats or Oil (an acid) to soap. This process is called saponification.
How Soap Cleans
Soap cleans by acting as an agent between water and dirt. Soap allows the
water to wet the surface that is being cleaned better. In addition, soap grabs dirt
and connects it to the water. Soap basically grabs dirt or grease and allows
water in to wash it away. This may be an over simplification of the process but it
is accurate.
Soap does more than just clean. The soap you make using this online guide will
contain at least 25% pure glycerin. Glycerin draws moisture to the skin, soothing
and lubricating its cells. Most soap sold in stores has had its glycerin removed
and sold back to the consumer in other skin care products. Also, most store
soaps are actually petrochemical-based detergents, which are good cleansers
but are harsh on the skin.

15. Soap – Good Reasons To Make Soap
Here are some of those characteristics as well as some other good reasons to
make your own soap:
• Lye soap is gentle.
• The quality of soap that is made at home can easily surpass store bought soap for
considerably less money.
• With homemade soap you get exactly what you want. You can scent, color or make the
bars all natural if that is your preference.
• Depending on the ingredients used, home made soap bars can easily outlast their
commercial counterparts.
• Lye soaps have a 'creaminess' that just can't be duplicated by any of the soaps you find in
stores. Lye soap is wonderful on your skin. The making of lye soap causes it to produce a
large amount of natural glycerin as a by-product. This is stripped off in commercial bar soap
production and sold for other commercial uses like lotions, but in homemade soaps the
glycerin is left in the soap.
• Lye soap can be used to clean just about everything. . There's nothing you can't use it on.
By the way, ever get engine grease on your hands while working on a car? Give lye soap a
try! Saddle soap is simply lye soap, so it's good for leather too.
• Soapmaking is fun and creative. Bars of custom soap make great gifts for friends and
family.
• If you wish you can produce soap for profit. Soapmaking is a good barter able skill which
can easily be turned into a profitable business.
• Soap making is easy!

16. Soap – Safely Working With Lye (NaOH)
NaOH / Lye is one of the key ingredients in the production of soap. Through a
chemical reaction it converts oils and fats to what we know as soap. Lye is
also one of the key ingredients in drain openers such as Drano and liquid
plumber because of its unique ability to convert greasy buildup into a soluble
substance thus clearing a clogged line. Lye should be handled in the same
way that drains cleaner, bleach or pool chemicals would be handled. If
mishandled it can be a dangerous chemical and can cause harm to you and
others. If handled correctly these kinds of problems can be avoided. There
is no reason why accidents involving lye cannot be completely avoided.
You can substantially reduce your chances of ever having an accident by
remembering three things.
1. Never pour water into lye. Always pour lye into the water. (Slowly) If you
pour water onto lye it can cause a violent reaction.
2. Secondly, be careful not to splash or spill the lye solution.
3. Keep lye out of the reach of children.

17. Soap – Ingredients
Oil or Fats - Almost any natural oil or animal fat can be
turned into soap.
Lye (NaOH - Sodium Hydroxide) - This is the ingredient
that converts the oil or fat to soap.
Water - Preferably distilled water or bottled water.
Minerals in hard tap water aren't good for
soapmaking.
Essential and Fragrance Oils - These are not required,
but can add a nice fragrance to your soap.
Soap Colorants – To color the soap.
Other additives - Oatmeal, spices, herbs etc can also be
added to soap at the trace stage.

18. Soap – Equipments
• Pair of safety goggles and a long sleeve shirt or
coveralls. (Important)
• Pair of Neoprene rubber gloves or dish washing
gloves.
• Half gallon Rubbermaid type pitchers (dishwasher
safe) one for water, one for lye
• Sturdy plastic stirring spoons, one for oils, one for
lye/water mix.
• Glass (not aluminum) candy thermometers.
• Large enameled or stainless pot to melt oils in. (16 qt.
would work). (Do not use aluminum pots, only
stainless steel or enameled.)
• Old blanket, preferably wool. (For insulating molds
after pouring)
• Kitchen food scale or postal scale.
• Saran type food wrap. (For lining molds)
• Molds
• Stick Blender is optional (creates a faster trace) or
Standard Kitchen Blender with lid and Towel

19. Soap – Method
Step one - Prepare your molds. Molds can be anything
from a greased pan to capped PVC pipes or candy
molds. Set up your molds on a flat and level
surface. Grease them with PAM. Make sure you
have enough molds ready to accommodate all of your
soap mix
MOLDS: For molds you can use a wooden or cardboard
box lined with saran wrap, candy molds or even a
PVC pipe capped on one end. If you use a PVC pipe
all you do is spray the inside with PAM, pour the
solution into the pipe, and let it set, and then uncap
and push out the soap. You then can cut it into round
pieces.

20. Soap – Method
Step Two - Measure out your water and lye. Dissolve the
correct amount of lye in cold water (Do not use an
aluminum container. Use stainless steel; enamel
coated steel or a heat resistant glass container like
Pyrex). Do not pour water into the lye. Pour the lye
slowly into the water a little at a time. Stir until
dissolved and let cool. Your previously cold water will
become very HOT in a matter of seconds after stirring
in the lye Allow the lye/water solution to cool to around
43oC. At this point it will be clear.

21. Soap – Method
Step Three - Measure, Mix and Melt Oils and fat and let
cool gradually to around 43oC. If your oils are already
in liquid form such as palm oil, coconut oil, canola oil
or corn oil simply heats them up to around 43oC.
Make sure the pot that the oil is in is large enough to
hold the oil and lye solution with enough room left
over for stirring without splattering. If you wish you
can use a separate container for mixing the oil and
lye. In this case you would pour the warmed oil into
this container prior to step 4.

22. Soap – Method
Step Four - Pour the lye solution into the oil/fat in a thin,
steady, stream with slow, even stirring. Be careful not
to splatter the solution onto yourself or others.
Continue stirring. Depending upon the type of oil you
are using the solution will begin to thicken or trace in
between 15 minutes to 3 hours. If you are using a
slow trace recipe you may want to stir for a few
minutes and then let the solution sit for 10-15 minutes
and then repeat this process until a trace appears. (A
trace is when you can take a spoonful of the soap
solution and pour a stream across the top of the
solution and have it leave a trace)

23. Soap – Method
Step Five - When the solution begins to thicken you can
add any essential oils or fragrances as well as any
other additives that your recipe calls for. (I.e.
Oatmeal, herbs etc...) Stir these ingredients into the
soap mix thoroughly.
Step Six - Pour this mixture into your mold or
molds. After you pour the solution into your mold you
should cover it with a towel to keep the soap from
cooling to fast. This will assist the soap in curing.
Step Seven - Let the soap harden for a day or two and
then pop it out of the mold, cut it and let it age for
about 3 weeks before using it.

24. Soap – Making in Blender
<Best Choice For Faster soap Making>
Although using a blender does not allow for big batches of soap, it has four
major advantages:
1. Blending your soap mix makes for a much shorter time
to the thin trace stage. Instead of 15 - 40 minutes, it
might require only minutes or even seconds.
2. Since liquid fat and oils can be used at room
temperature, no thermometers are required. For solid
fats simply heat them until they are melted.
3. The blender effectively whips the lye water into the fats
producing a much smoother mixture so the chances of
your mix separating are greatly reduced.
4. Your soap bars will be creamier in consistency and
should float due to the air that is whipped into the
solution.

25. Soap – Making in Blender
<Best Choice For Faster soap Making>
Step One - Dissolve the lye in cold water and wait until it
cools and the mixture turns clear.
Step Two - Carefully pour the oil and then the lye/water
solution into the blender. Be careful not to splash or
spill the lye on yourself or others.
Step Three - Lock the blender in position, secure the
cover, place a towel over the top of the blender for
safety, and process at the lowest possible
speed. Make sure you are wearing your goggles
when you process the soap mixture and make sure
the towel is in place to avoid any accidental splashing
of the lye/oil mixture.

26. Stop the blender and check the soap often to watch for
what is called a thin-trace stage. This is when the
soap mixture just begins to thicken. Each time you
stop the blender, wait a few seconds before removing
the cover. Sometimes the soap "burps" when it stops
as trapped air comes to the top. At the thin trace
stage, stop the blender and stir the soap to check for
tracing and to allow bubbles to escape.
Step four - At this point you can add any essential oils,
colorants or fragrances as well as any other
ingredients such as oatmeal or herbs. Blend these in
for a few seconds and then stop the blender.
Step Five - Pour the soap into individual molds. Cover it
with a blanket for insulation. Let the soap set for a day
or two and then after popping it out of the molds cut it
and let it age for at least three weeks.
Soap – Making in Blender
<Best Choice For Faster soap Making>

27. Soap – Making Liquid Hand Soap in a blender
Making liquid soap is no more difficult than making hard
bars. The difference is in the type of lye you use. For hard
bars you use sodium hydroxide. For liquid soap you use
potassium hydroxide also known as Potash or KOH.
Prepare the same way you would regular bar soap in a blender
except use potassium hydroxide instead of sodium hydroxide
and instead of pouring the solution into a mold you pour it into
a plastic container to cure. (The solution will take a little
longer than regular soap to trace since you are using
potassium hydroxide versus sodium hydroxide.) Once in the
container let the mixture cure for two weeks. After two weeks
thin the mix with water until it is about the consistency of hand
soap. At this point you can add any essential oils or
fragrances you desire. You can use a stick or regular blender
for this step also. After it is mixed pour the soap into a pump
jar type container and you are done.

28. Soap – Recipes For Blender Process
Recipe#1
340 g Palm Oil
170 g Coconut oil
50 g Olive oil
122 g KOH - Potassium hydroxide
250 g Water + 10 cc desired fragrance + desired color
<At Room Temperature>
Recipe#2
340 g Soybean oil
80 g Coconut Oil
60 g Palm Oil
60 g Corn Oil
109 g KOH - Potassium hydroxide
230 g Water + 10 cc desired fragrance + desired color
<At Room Temperature>

29. Soap – Recipes For Blender Process
Favorite Castile I
235 g Olive oil
150 g Coconut oil
100 g Palm oil
74 g NaOH – Sodium hydroxide
210 g Water + 10 cc desired fragrance + desired color
<At Room Temperature>
Favorite Castile II
250 Palm oil
140 Coconut oil
100 Corn oil
75.5 g NaOH – Sodium hydroxide
210 g Water + 10 cc desired fragrance + desired color
<At Room Temperature>