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1. IDENTIFICATION OF SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS
BY: MONIKA
TO: NIDHI MA’AM
What is a sustainable material?
Sustainable materials may be sourced from low environmental impact or renewable resources, be more
durable with a longer lifecycle, have a smaller footprint to manufacture or use, or be easier to break
down at end of life. Some can even be human-made materials, designed to help preserve natural
resources.
Why sustainable fashion materials are important?
Reduced Carbon Dioxide and Greenhouse Gas Emissions.
Sustainable clothing uses biodegradable components from natural or recycled fibers. These materials
grow with no pesticide or fertilizer use, consume less energy and water, and employ no chemical
treatment, thus reducing the overall carbon footprint of these brands.

2. IDENTIFICATION OF SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS ARE
• Leather alternatives
• MYLO
Backed by Stella McCartney, Adidas, Gucci-owner Kering and Lululemon, Mylo is an “un-leather” made from
mycelium, or fungi roots. Large sheets of fluffy foam are grown from fungal cells, before going through the
regular tanning process that animal hides undergo. While primarily made from bio-based materials, Mylo is not
completely plastic-free – although it has set a goal of eliminating synthetic content altogether.
• Mirum
Created by Natural Fiber Welding, Mirum is a plastic-free alternative to leather produced from plants and
minerals. According to the company, the material can be endlessly recycled, making it fully circular. Allbirds and
Pangaia are among the first brands to create products from Mirum, while Ralph Lauren are also investors in the
company.
• Piñatex
One of the early alternative leathers to emerge on the market, Piñatex – made from pineapple waste –
has been adopted by a wide range of brands, from H&M to Hugo Boss. At the moment, the vegan leather
also contains a bio-based plastic, PLA, and is finished with a PU coating for durability.

3. • Recycled textiles
• Circulose
Renewcell’s Circulose material is made using 100 per cent discarded clothes. Using renewable energy, the
cotton content from garments is separated out and dissolved into wood pulp, before it’s turned into a
type of viscose. H&M was the first brand to launch a product made out of Circulose in 2020, while Levi’s
created its iconic 501s using the textile earlier this year.
• Bio-based fabrics
• Kintra
Finding a 100 per cent bio-based alternative to synthetics such as polyester and nylon is a crucial step for
the industry moving forward, with Kintra among the new innovations looking to fill that gap. Made using
sugar derived from corn and wheat, the company has partnered with Pangaia to develop and scale a
biodegradable alternative to traditional polyester.
• Carbon-negative materials
• AirCarbon
Excitingly, Newlight Technologies’s AirCarbon material is carbon-negative – meaning it actually
absorbs CO2 from the atmosphere. The leather alternative is created by replicating a process
that happens in nature: marine organisms converting methane and carbon dioxide into a
molecule that can then be melted down. With the company announcing a partnership with
Nike last year, expect to see much more from AirCarbon in the future.

4. Ways of the clothing manufacturing process can be environmentally supported and
how companies are learning to de-risk their development
• Materials
There is an array of eco-friendly materials at the disposal of clothing manufacturers both large and small. Preliminary
focuses tend towards using organic materials that lessen or remove the usage of harmful chemicals, solvents, dyes
and treatment processes. Using recycled materials, whether partially or fully, is also starting to be utilised by most
fashion companies as well. ‘Rapid renewables’ like bamboo are starting to become a notable replacement for cotton
garments. It grows faster, doesn’t require pesticides, absorbs 5x more CO2 than equivalent hardwood trees, and
requires less laundry care.
• Design
Fusing environmentally conscious design and production approaches can help to create a corporate
identity that will increase in salience as environmental issues become more pressing. By creating and
marketing designs that have increased durability, improved functionality and less resource-intensive
production processes, companies can de-risk their development from the pitfalls of fast fashion and
acquire new customers through an emphasis on quality and eco-consciousness. Examples of this could be
ensuring all outsourced materials and design elements are fully recycled or utilising natural dyes that are
less likely to fade and facilitate the disposal Most importantly, communicating the intent behind designs
will help consumers to adapt their thinking towards more long-term purchasing.

5. • Water
Clothing manufacturing processes are infamous for their water usage. Although strides have been made in
using more sustainable materials and production methods to reduce water consumption, the real focus for
companies is to develop processes for recycling their wastewater back into the production process. New York-
based brand DL91961 is a leading example for the fashion industry, having recycled 98% of their wastewater,
892.5 million gallons to be exact, in 2019.
With Waste2Fresh’s approach of catalytic degradation and selective separation and extraction techniques, it
represents a key change in transforming and upscaling solutions to this issue by creating a closed loop cluster
and ensuring a near zero discharge. As an EU-funded project, Waste2Fresh aims to increase resource and water
efficiency by 30% compared to state-of-the-art, across textile and energy intensive operations around the
globe.
• Logistics
It is also the responsibility of clothing companies to make sure that they utilise efficient and
sustainable supply chains and logistics in order to reduce the environmental impact of the products
they make. This can include sourcing materials within the country of production or using the least
damaging mode of transportation to get there. When shipping to the consumer, ensuring that your
packaging is recycled and optimised for space, whilst also using a carbon-neutral delivery partner
will help to ensure a holistic approach in de-risking your development. Danish fashion house
‘Bestseller’ has recently partnered with a carbon-neutral shipping company using biofuel with the
aim to work towards becoming climate positive. Whether by ocean, rail or lorry, there are numerous
logistics providers who have adapted to this model to accommodate the demands of the fashion
industry.

6. • Cradle to Grave
As highlighted, the full lifecycle of a garment needs to be considered even after it has been sold onto the
consumer. Whether offering lifetime repair warranties or buyback schemes in order to recycle/upcycle
old clothes into new seasons, promoting post-purchase routes to environmental friendliness will not only
help to improve your company image but also help to reinforce positive consumer behaviours. Even
ensuring detailed care instructions are given with each product in order to maximise their full potential
lifespan can help to reduce the rapid turnover of clothing. Patagonia exemplifies this approach in its
dedicated approach to longevity, having repaired 56,000 garments this season and produced 64% of their
fabrics from recycled materials.