herbal drugs or phytoconstituents used to improve skin texture and coloration included in the presentation with herbal fairness formulations available in the market

1. HERBAL FAIRNESS
CREAM
PREPARED BY –
ZULI SHINGALA
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2. FAIR AND BEAUTIFUL ??
(EQUAL OR NOT )
 Fairness is considered equal to attractiveness by majority of
the populace.
 Advertisements stating - wanted Fair, Slim and Beautiful
Bride ?
 Making the not so fair person feel that they have to do
something to become fair skinned person.
 Or they lose the chance of finding a suitable groom. This
Psychology has become the trading point of the Fairness
Cream Industry.
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3. SKIN WHITENING / LIGHTENING /
FAIRNESS PRODUCTS
 Skin lightening products refers to the practice of using
substances for lighten skin tone or provide an even skin
complexion by inhibiting the concentration of melanin.
 The colour of the skin may have a major impact on an
individual’s psychological profile.
 There are products available to treat both hypo and hyper
pigmentation.
 India, being a tropical country has predominantly dark-
skinned people.
 Products to enhance “skin fairness” are available as
cosmetic creams in the market and these are advertised
widely.
 Most products are aimed at young women.
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4.  These are usually in the form of creams or gels or lotions.
 WHAT DOES THE FAIRNESS PRODUCTS DO?
 Inhibit the formation of melanin.
 Reduces pigmentation.
 BY-
 destroying Melanocytes.
 Inhibit Tyrosinase activity, thus inhibit the production of
Melanin.
 Affecting the Formation of Tyrosinase.
 When a product claims that its use will result in making the
skin fair, it implies that using it will actually decrease the
natural skin coloration of an individual.
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5. HERBAL / NATURAL INGREDIENTS –
EXTRACTS:
 Licorice
 Saffron
 Aloevera
 Manjistha
 Turmeric
 Cucumber
 Papaya
 Lemon
 Rose
 Tulsi
 Milk
 Sandalwood
 Besan
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6. SYNTHETIC INGREDIENTS THAT HELP IN SKIN
LIGHTENING
 Tretinoin
 Hydroquinone:
 Hydroquinone is a strong inhibitor of melanin production,
can disrupt the synthesis and production of melanin.
 Banned in some countries (e.g. France- from 2001)
because of fears of a cancer risk. Hydroquinone has been
shown to cause leukemia in mice and other animals.
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7.  Arbutin :
 Pure forms of arbutin are considered more potent (alpha-
arbutin, beta-arbutin, and deoxy-arbutin).
 Beta-Arbutin is also known by its more common name of
Bearberry extract.
 Derived from the leaves of bearberry, cranberry, mulberry
blueberry shrubs, and is also present in most types of
It can have melanin-inhibiting properties.
 considered safe alternatives to commonly used de-
pigmenting agents to make the skin fairer.
 There are patents controlling its use for skin lightening.
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8.  Kojic acid :
 Kojic acid is a by-product in the fermentation process of
malting rice for use in the manufacturing of Sake, the
Japanese rice wine.
 Kojic acid is an unstable ingredient in cosmetic
formulations.
 Upon exposure to air or sunlight it can turn brown and
its efficacy.
 Many cosmetic companies use Kojic di-palmitate as an
alternative because it is more stable in formulations. some
controversial research has suggested that Kojic acid may
have carcinogenic properties in large doses.
 It can cause allergic contact dermatitis and skin irritation.
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9.  Azelaic acid :
 Azelaic acid is a component of grains, such as wheat, rye,
and barley.
 It is applied topically in a cream formulation at a 10-20%
concentration.
 Azelaic acid is used to treat acne, but there also is research
showing it to be effective for skin discolorations.
 Vitamin C :
 Vitamin C are considered an effective antioxidant for the
skin and they help to lighten skin.
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10.  Alpha hydroxy acids :
 Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) - primarily in the form of lactic
acid and glycolic acid - are the most researched forms of
AHAs because they have a molecular size that allows
effective penetration into the top layers of skin.
 4% to 15% are not effective for inhibiting melanin
production and will not lighten skin discolorations in that
manner.
 Their benefit is in helping removing unhealthy or abnormal
layers of skin cells (exfoliation) where hyper pigmented
cells can accumulate.
 Alpha hydroxy acid peels (using 50% concentrations or
greater) may remove skin discolorations. Only a qualified
physician should perform these types of facial peels.
 Niacinamide :
 Niacinamide is much safer alternative for skin whitening.
Niacinamide has no adverse side-effects. It promotes acne
reduction, and reduces fine wrinkles.
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11.  Major Constituents of Fairness Cream:
 usually a solid or semi-solid emulsion.
 Oil phase ingredients – base as stearic acid (in most of the
cases), liquid paraffin,cetostearyl alcohol
 Water based ingredients –glycerin,triethanolamine
 Emulsifiers – stearic acid
 Sesquersting agents – Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
 Fairness actives – Synthetic and Natural/herbals
 Preservatives – To preserve the formulations from
microbial attacks and contaminations- methyl and propyl
paraben
 Colouring and Perfumery agents – To keep the
formulation aesthetically appealing and pleasant.
 Other special ingredients –UV protective agents,Anti-
oxidants,Vitamins etc.
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12. preparation
 Generally fairness creams are oil in water (O/W) emulsion
based creams.
 Emulsifier and other oil soluble components (cetyl alcohol,
almond oil) dissolved in oil phase.
 The preservatives and other water soluble components
(methyl paraben, propyl paraben, propylene glycol, and all
herbal extracts) dissolved in the aqueous phase.
 Heat both phase at 75 ˚C.
 After heating, add aqueous phase into oil phase with
continuous stirring.
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13.  What should be the desired qualities of Fairness Cream?
 Pleasant odour and colour
 Must be aesthetically appealing
 Easy to spread, and provide a pleasant feeling during
application
 Easy penetration
 Should be non-oily / non-greasy after application
 Impart skin lightening
 Improve complexion
 Render moisturization
 Impart hydration
 Render nourishment
 Well tolerance
 Non-allergenic
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14. EVALUATION PARAMETERS
 1. pH of cream
 2. viscosity
 3. dye test :
 The scarlet red dye is mixed with the cream.
 Place a drop on a microscopic slide, cover it and examine.
 O/W types of creams shows – disperse globules red over
colourless background.
 4. homogeneity
 5. appearance
 6. washability / removal of cream
 7. Acid value
 8. saponification value
 9. irritancy test
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15. MARKETED PRODUCTS
 1. FAIR AND LOVELY AYURVEDIC CARE
 Kumkumadi oil – skin lightening remedies for dull and dark
complexion.
 Chandan, manjishtha, milk, kesa, wheat germ oil.
 It also provides protection from UV rays.
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16. 2. VICCO TURMERIC SKIN CREAM
 Ingredients :
 Combination of turmeric and sandalwood oil.
 It heals and prevents acne, pimples and blemishes.
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17. 3. Himalaya hebals natural glow kesar face cream
 Contains alfalfa, vitamin E, vitamin B3 and saffron
 Inhibits melanin synthesis
 Saffron helps lighren skin tone and brightens a dull
complexion.
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18. 4. Patanjali saundarya swarn kanti fairness cream
 Contains an advanced blend of purified gold along with a
natural oils, herbs, vitamins and fruit extracts.
 5. roop mantra ayurvedic medicinal cream
 Contains 12 medicinal herbs and fruits includind aloe vera,
apple, carrot, almond, grapes, mulethi, neem and
chandan.
 That makes skin look fair and gives natural glow to skin.
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19. 6. VLCC white and bright glow creme
 Paraben free formula
 Contains carrot seed dry powder extract, aloe vera, grape
extract, liquorice extract and mulberry extract, saffron,
turmeric, cucumber extract and olive oil.
 Brightens the dull and dark skin
 Reduces the appearance of marks, blemishes and
pigmentation.
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20.  REFERENCES
 Fairness cream – consumers association of India
 (www.caiindia.com)
 Natural fairness creams to achieve fair and flawlwss skin
from beautyglimpse.com
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