Saddle fitting

1. National Saddle Centre NZ
Josephine Giles Dancy
Owner, Founder & Master Saddle
Fitter

2. What the horse needs from the saddle
The horse’s primary need is comfort and freedom of movement.
A well fitting saddle minimizes the damage we do to out horses back by riding
him. By distributing our weight as sympathetically as possible on the horse’s
back we increase the horse’s comfort and his ability to preform what we are
asking of him.
To expect a horse to perform kindly and give his best whilst wearing an
“instrument of torture” is not reasonable and we should not be surprised if the
horse reacts towards us in a negative way if we do so.
We will go through some of the signs to look for both physically and behaviour
wise which might indicate that your horse is not as happy as he deserves to be.

3. Signs of an Ill-Fitting Saddle
Ways your horse may tell you that he isn’t comfortable…

4. What is your horse trying to tell you?
Physical Signs
 Soreness
 Reaction to Touch
 Muscle Loss
 Tension in the Back
 Dry spots
 White hairs
Sudden Changes in Behaviour
 Ears back
 Biting
 Kicking
 Threatening
 Dislike of grooming and being tacked
up
 Unusually grumpy behaviour

5. What is your horse trying to tell you?
 Reluctance to go forwards or down hills
 Suddenly refusing to jump, rushing fences or clipping poles.
 Hollowing and working away from the saddle.
 Overly high head carriage or inability to drop head low on long rein. This is
a good test because if he is sore he will be unable to work through his back, therefore being
unable to drop his head.
 Bucking, if it unusual for him to do so.
Under Saddle
These are ways your horse may tell you that he isn’t comfortable:

6. Dry Spots
Dry spots would seem to indicate excess
pressure – these can be caused by a
saddle that is too narrow or too wide
where the balance has not been
corrected, or the incorrect use of back
riser pad in an attempt to “correct” the
balance.
Dry spots tend to occur more often on
horses with poor conformation,
particularly those that are higher behind
than in front (croup high) and are
believed to be the precursor to white
hairs.

7. White Hairs
White hairs are definitely caused by excess
pressure – these can be caused by a saddle
that is too narrow or too wide where the
balance has not been corrected, or the
incorrect use of back riser pad in an attempt
to “correct” the balance. Poor conformation
and excess weight of the rider are often
contributing factors.
The points of the tree and stirrup bar are
often responsible and we see NSC’s e-Bar
doing a great deal to alleviate this pressure.
The angle of the rails in the tree on the
horse’s back is usually responsible for white
hairs along the back as illustrated in the
bottom photograph

8. Muscle Loss
You can see muscle loss in the form of
“hollows”, usually behind the scapula
where the points of the tree and
stirrup bar sit.
Taller horses, where the angles on the
back are greater, are more likely to
suffer from this. The saddle for this
type of horse needs much more
support across the front third. The
shape of the tree and design of the
panel is very important here.
Obtaining the balance of the saddle
and clearance by making the fit
narrower is usually responsible.

9. Viewing the Horse Holistically
With all temperament and behaviour issues
we have also to rule out other bio-
mechanical changes in the horse.
Remember that horses are reactionary in
general – they do not suddenly react badly
unless something bad is happening to
them. If your horse persists to act
uncharacteristically it will almost certainly
be something that is happening to him.
However, behaviour is sometimes just a
memory and once established as a truly
“grumpy” horse, bad behaviour can persist
long after the course of discomfort has
been removed.
A Comfortable, Happy Horse =
Improved Performance

10. Why did he behave like this?
The whole temperament and behaviour issue has to be viewed holistically.
For Example:
Did my horse buck me off because:
1.I hadn’t ridden him for a few days and he had been having a lot of feed?
2. Was it a windy day and he was feeling just a bit too well?
3. Did I pull on his mouth and land too heavily on his back after a fence – was he
showing his displeasure?
4. Could it be his feet or his teeth?
Etc…
Or… Could his saddle be making him uncomfortable?
Have I changed anything; girth or saddle blanket?
Can I detect any soreness?
Has he gained or lost condition?
Have I been asking him to work too hard before he was fit enough?
If any of the latter apply, it is time to get your saddle and your horse assessed .

11. Does your saddle fit?
Unweighted Checks
The Basics

12. Check the Position
The points of the tree should sit
three fingers (2inches/5cm)
behind the scapula.

13. Saddle in Correct Position
Saddle sitting too far forward. The points of the tree are
jamming into the scapula. The balance is lost. Doing this can have
severe implications on the ligaments around and above the
scapula.
Saddle sitting too far back. Balance is lost and weight is being
taken beyond the 18th thoracic vertebrae and into the lumbar
region.
Saddle sitting in the correct position. The points of the tree are 2
inches/5cm behind the scapula, the back of the saddle does not
encroach into the lumbar region and balance is good.

x
x

14. Check the Balance
The cantle of the saddle
should sit about
1inch/2.5cm higher than
the pommel.
The lowest part of the
seat should be parallel to
the ground.

15. Balance
The saddle is sitting in correct balance. The cantle about an
inch above the pommel; the lowest part of the seat sitting
parallel to the ground so the rider’s weight is being taken
most sympathetically on the horse’s back.
This saddle is sitting “cantle low”. The pommel is level or
higher than the cantle causing the rider’s weight to be taken
too far back. This can totally destabilize the saddle and cause
pressure at the back of the saddle and friction throughout. It
may incline the saddle to slip forward.
This saddle in sitting “cantle high”. The cantle is
considerably higher than the pommel causing the rider’s
weight to be taken across the front third of the saddle. This
can cause excessive pressure from the points of the tree &
stirrup bar and friction & concussion at the back of the
saddle.

x
x

16. Check the Clearance
Make sure that there is
sufficient clearance
between the withers and
the arch of the saddle.
It is very important to
check the clearance
throughout the channel of
the saddle not just at the
front.

17. Clearance
Insufficient clearance: Balance lost;
saddle is sitting too close to the horses
wither and spine where all the rider’s
weight will be taken.
Bad choice for this horse.
Too much clearance: Balance lost;
weight taken at the back of the
saddle; front destabilized and saddle
likely to slip forward.
Bad choice for this horse.
Good clearance: good balance.
Good choice for this horse.

x
x

18. Check the Points
When you stand by your
horse’s side the points of
the tree should follow the
contours of the horses
outline, running parallel
with the area behind the
shoulder where they sit.

19. Check the Contact
Feel underneath the
panels to make sure there
is contact throughout the
horses back. Pressure
should be even and note
should be taken of any
light spots or where the
saddle feels heavier.

20. Check the Size
The saddle must be an
appropriate size for both
horse and rider . No
weight should be taken
further back than the
horses 18th thoracic
vertebrae (T18). To check
this, find the last rib and
follow it up to where it
meets the spine – that’s
T18!

21. Check the width of Channel
Measure the horses spine
and then measure the
width of channel.
When correct, you will
have the most
sympathetic weight
bearing surface on the
horse’s back and will have
minimised friction against
the spinous processus.

22. Does your saddle fit?
Weighted Checks
The Basics

23. Check the Panels are Even
Stand behind the horse
and make sure the panels
look even on each side of
the spine and that the
saddle isn’t tipping over to
one side.

24. Check the Stability
When the rider stands in the
stirrups the back of the
saddle should stay in contact
with the horse’s back.
Looking for this stability
when the horse is being
ridden and we have added
the dynamic of horse and
rider movement is one of
the most important checks.

25. Check the Riders Balance
Firstly, you must
check the saddle is in
correct balance and
is in the right place
on the horses back.
The rider should be sitting in the lowest part
of the seat, not tipping forwards or
backwards and in the correct shoulder-hip-
heel line.

26. Balance, Stability & Clearance
Check the Stability: After the saddle has been ridden on for 10
minutes or more get the rider to stand in their stirrups. Check to
make sure the saddle isn’t coming up off the horses back when the
rider is in two point position.
Check the Clearance: After the saddle has been ridden on for 10
minutes or more, get the rider to sit on the seat and check the
clearance at the front of the saddle. You should be able to see
daylight throughout the channel.
Check the Balance: After the saddle has been ridden on for 10
minutes or more, check the balance of the saddle when horse
is standing four square on flat, level ground. The cantle should
be approx. 2.5cm higher than the pommel if a parallel line was
drawn.

27. National Saddle Centre NZ
For more information, visit our website:
www.nationalsaddlecentre.co.nz