Mamta Manwani. ,Fashion Design Second year Diploma Student of Dezyne E'cole College

On
Garment Technology For Fashion Designer
At
Dezyne E’cole College
Submitted Towards
The Partial Fulfillment Of The
Two Year Diploma In Fashion Design
Confirming To NSQF Level 6 Of NSDC
By
Mamta Manwani
106/10,civil Lines ,Ajmer
Tel:0145-2624679
www.dezyneecole.Com
2016-17
Project Report

Civil Lines, Ajmer
www.dezyneecole.com
This Project Of Ms. Mamta Manwani Student Of 2nd Year Advance Diploma In Fashion Design, Confirming To NSQF
Level 6 Of NSDC Has Been Checked And Graded As ______________________________________________________
Thanking You
Principal
[Seal & Signature]

I take this opportunity to express my profound gratitude and deep regards to Dezyne E’cole College for their
exemplary guidance, monitoring and constant encouragement throughout the course of this project.
I also take this opportunity to express a deep sense of gratitude to the mentors of Dezyne E’cole College for their
cardinal support, valuable information and guidance, which helped me in completing this task through various stages.
MAMTA MANWANI
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Under a free enterprise system it is accepted by the business world that money is the name of the game, and the
clothing industry is no exception. There are many factors which can influence profitability, but in normal
circumstances profitability originates to a large extent in the design section. These includes frame work and garment
costing. There is an adage which says that prevention is better than cure, and this is applicable to pattern
modifications of all types. Although in a garment industry pre sales design process follows the process from sample
making to the cost but here I studied first about costing of a garment and then how a sample is being made.
The pattern cutter should try to anticipate the possible problems regarding materials usage and should incorporate
the solutions when preparing the pattern and not when the pattern is being used to prepare a cutting marker.There
is no point in improving materials utilization if the savings made are thrown away by using a zip which is two or three
centimeters larger than the necessary or by using expansive tapes as stay tapes. Garment trimmings have relatively
critical functions in the make up of garments and whilst prize is important, so is performance
It is no exaggeration to say that apart from clothing, the two cornerstones of garment quality are fusing and pressing.
The importance of pressing process should never be underestimated because of its decisive contribution to garment
quality and appeal. Another point in the production process of a garment is sewing. And so there are classes of
seams and stitches are divided under British Standard 3870 Part I & II.
A great deal of responsibility is involved when a completed sample is handed over to the marketing department. By
this action the designer has confirmed that the garment meets all the planned, relevant commercial and technical
criteria, and above all that the quality is precisely what is required. Conditions and the scale of operation have a
great influence on how the sample room operates. In a clothing manufacturing company, the designer plays a pivotal
role in the interchange of information because all garments produced by the company starts their existence in the
design department. And therefore communication and management is supposed to be organized for an expected
outcome in a production unit.
SYNOPSIS

CONTENT
1. GARMENT ENGINEERING INTRODUCTION
Pre-sales Design Room Process
2. COST CONCIOUSNESS
The Designer And Garment Cost
Pattern Cutting And Material Utilization
Garment Trimmings
3. GARMENT TECHNOLOGY
History Of Garment Technology
Sample Cutting
The Principles Of Fusing Technology
The Principles Of Sewing Technology
The Principles Of Pressing Technology
Garment Finishing And Inspection
The Sample Room
4. DESIGN DEPARTMENT OPERATIONS
Communication
Management And Organization

Garment design does not exist in vacuum but is
the end product of a chain of activities which can
be said to start with production of textiles. The
internal chain starts with the marketing
department doing some formal or informal
market research to evaluate what the market
sector served by the company could be looking
for and at what prices.
Marketing and put their heads together and start
formulating the framework of the sample
collection. Fabrics and trimmings are selected
and ordered and the designer starts to prepare
the core designs which will represent the central
theme garments of the collection. Core designs,
when approved, will be the basis for developing
planned groups of variations. The pre-sales
design room process is followed.
GARMENT ENGINEERING : INTRODUCTION
So garment design becomes goal directed planning because apart from developing the appeal factors of each design,
the designer also has to take into account the many technical and commercial factors involved. So when designs have
been approved and materials delivered, the design team has to start becoming very involved with the production of
sample garments.

PRE-SALES DESIGN ROOM PROCESS
MarketingDesign
Indications Of Trends Market Research
Exchange Of Ideas
First Collection Plan
Materials Selection
Material Orders
Receipt Of Materials
Core Designs
Approval Of Core Designs
Production Core Samples
Trial Costing
Approval Of Core Samples Customer Contact
Agents/Reps
Fashion Shows
Extension Of Core Designs
Produce Collection
Final Costing Review Of Collections
Marketing Program
Sales

Cost consciousness is a step towards the
production of the creation by a Fashion Designer.
So all these are influenced by the combination of
two factors: Market specialization and The
average garment concept. This linking provides
the designer with a reasonably accurate basis for
initial cost estimates.
Market specialization is all about the sectors in
which a market is divided which makes a designer
to view a market in a completely different way. For
example, sectors are divided according to garment
types and subsections are primarily based on
prize. And as far as average garment concept is
concerned it is very widely used because of the
production commonalities which exist between
garments of the same type.
COST CONSCIOUSNESS
GARMENT COSTING
The garment costing which is also known as bill of materials includes the garment costing details, the cost of every
item attributable to the production of a particular garment. The sum of these costs plus the profit margin is the selling
price which the company will quote to customers. Whilst each company has its own method of preparing costing,
generally all components of a costing are grouped under four headings: Direct materials, direct labors, factory
overhead (indirect labor + Expenses + indirect materials = 120% of direct labor) and last but not the least General
overhead (45% of all other costs).

The cost sheet shown below is a sample cost sheet. This cost sheet is made using MS Excel with all the formulae
applied to calculate total cost of the garment.
THE COST SHEET

Over the years various researchers have established that approximately 85% of the material purchased are in the
finished garment, with the remainder for one reason or another ending as waste. This figure is called the material
utilization percentage and it is a crucial cost factor in the price of a garment. A pattern cutter cannot personally
prevent excess material usage in cutting room, there are a number of procedures which can be employed to ensure
that the garment pattern makes the minimum possible demands on materials requirements. These procedures are
grouped together under the heading of pattern engineering. The overall objectives of pattern engineering are to
improve the utilization factor of a garment pattern through prudent modifications which do not degrade the design
integrity. A line has to be drawn between the enhancement of materials utilization and maintenance of the design
objectives. Major modifications in a pattern includes front with extended facing, side seam displacement, two piece
inverted pleat and splitting a one piece sleeve.
Seams are important to be considered in the utilization part as many of these ensures the finishing of a garment. The
most important properties of a seam are strength and flexibility. There are three elements of seam, lateral strength,
handling and visual control. There are seams used to stitch hems also. This refers to the turn ups on the lower
extremities of body garments, skirts, trousers and sleeves, etc.
Facings, fusible and lining are also very important part to be considered in material utilization as 0.1” of difference in
cutting can make a big difference in the material utilized.
Last but not the least, computerized cutting, in which bulk work are to be cut by a CAM system, the patterns used for
all materials should have a small modifications made to their external corners in order to slightly reduce cutting time
which is a part of material utilization as time is also to be utilized in a proper way.
COST CONSCIOUSNESS
PATTERN CUTTING AND MATERIAL UTILISATION

MATERIAL UTLIZATION
MAJOR MODIFICATIONS
Original Modified
(A) Front with extended facing
Reduce Increase
(B) Side Seam Displacement
Original Modified Original Modified
(C) Two Piece Inverted Pleat (D) Splitting A One Piece
Sleeve
Material utilisation percentage is a crucial cast
factor in the price of a garment . These
procedures are grouped together under the
heading of pattern engineering.
PATTERN ENGINEERING:
The overall objectives of pattern engineering
are to improve the utilisation factor of a
garment pattern through prudent
modifications which do not degrade the design
integrity.
MAJOR MODIFICATIONS:
These modifications could include seam
displacements slight reductions in flare,
splitting very large components, separate
instead of extended facings, etc. some of the
examples are as following.

MATERIAL UTLIZATION
SEAMS
The most important properties of seams are
strength and flexibility and these are determined
by number of technical factors plus the
characteristics of the fabric and the width of the
seam allowance.
This width combines three important elements:
1. LATERAL STRENGTH: In this context, strength
refers to the ability of the seam the
withstand reasonable pressure at angles to
its length.
2. HANDLING: For operator controlled seaming
there has to be an adequate margin between
the right hand side of the pressure foot and
the edge of the seam being sewn.
3. VISUAL CONTROL: For operator controlled
seaming there has to be an adequate margin
between the right hand side of the pressure
foot and the edge of the seam being sewn.
Sewing
Pressed Open
Seam Width
Pressure Foot
Edge Of
Foot
Margin
Lateral Strength
Handling
Visual
Control

MATERIAL UTLIZATION
SEAMS
LAP FELLED SEAM:
Commonly used for jeans and similarly styled garments, the seam
allowance is determined by the needle gauge of the machine to be
used.
Seam allowance: 1.5 (needle gauge)+ 1 mm
Turned Over
Sewing
Lap Felled Seam
Needle Gauge
EDGES:
These are enclosed seams which are typically used for the edges of
collars, lapels and flaps, etc. For profile or jig-sewing a seam width of
5 mm is used, and for operator controlled edge sewing 6 mm. in both
cases, if the sewing machine also has an edge trimming action, an
additional 2 mm is necessary.

MATERIAL UTLIZATION
SEAMS
TOP STITCHED SEAM:
The two elements which determine the sewing allowances for
these seams are the width of the top stitching and the thickness
of the material.
Margin is the width of top stitching plus 2 or 3 mm.
Top stitch on light weight materials Top stitch on heavy weight materials
Allowance and Assembly
Top Stitch

Hems refers to the turn ups on the lower extremities of body
garments, skirts, trousers and sleeves etc. and the same
consideration apply to both the top clothing and lining.
Different garment types have varying requirements as regards
acceptable hem widths and the general industrial practice is:
Body Garments- Outerwear and light clothing: Garment
hems= 4cm, sleeve hems= 3.5-4cm.
Trousers and skirts- outerwear and light clothing: 3.5cm
Woven blouses and shirt: gross 1.2cm
Cut Knits: cut knits have standard single turn, are overlocked.
Linings:
Sewn Hems: The allowance for sewn lining hems is derived
directly from the hem width of the body lining.
Open Hems: These are mostly used for flared garments.
MATERIAL UTLIZATION
HEMS
Turn in allowance Finished Hem
Turn in allowance Finished Hem
Hem Allowance Finished Hem

For practical purposes, the width of a front facing depends to a
large extent on the direction of the buttonholes in relation to the
front edge. There are 2 standard directions:
1. Vertical: Where the buttonholes are parallel to the front edge.
2. Horizontal: Where the buttonholes are at the right angle to
the front edge.
The details which have to be taken into account when calculating
the width of the lower section:
1. The distance between the eye of the buttonhole and the front
edge is equal to ½ the diameter of the button plus 5-6 mm.
2. The length of the buttonhole is based on the diameter and
thickness of the button.
Label: If a label is position on the neck piece, the width of the neck
piece has to be sufficient to contain the label plus a small margin all
around. Thus the total net width of the neck piece provides the
start of the inside edge line which runs down to the lower section.
A net back piece width of 4cm is sufficient for most purposes.
MATERIAL UTLIZATION
FACING

Linings are also an important cost component and whilst the potential for pattern modifications is limited, there
are some minor procedures which can enhance the utilization of materials.
Skirt Lining: Skirt lining patterns are positioned in cutting markers according to the warp grain line of the material.
Body Lining: Body linings can be modified by displacing the seams and this can be done in 3 different ways:
1. From 0 at the armhole to 3cm at the hem.
2. From 0 at the hem to 3cm at the armhole
3. Displacing the entire length of the side seam up to 3cm in either direction.
MATERIAL UTLIZATION
LINING
Knee Length Lining
Seat Lining

Sleeve Lining: Patterns for sleeve lining allows the simple modifications which are as following:
Joins: Joins in the width of a sleeve lining are necessary in order to prevent excessive waste.
Seam Displacement: In sleeves seam displacement is done in following different ways:
1. Displacing the hind arm seams to increase the width of the top sleeve cuff and decrease that of the under sleeve
or vise versa.
2. Decreasing the head width of the top sleeve and increasing the width of the related section of the under sleeve.
3. Displacing the hind arm seam for their whole length.
MATERIAL UTLIZATION
SLEEVE LINING

Computerized Cutting: Computerized cutting can lead to
excessive material wastage. As the cutting blade of a
computer controlled cutting head cannot turn through a
sharp corner without disturbing a small area of the
surrounding material.
MATERIAL UTLIZATION
COMPUTERIZED CUTTING
Consequently, most CAM
systems use the following
sequence for cutting corners:
1. The first converging line of
corner is cut to its end.
2. The blade is then
automatically lifted out of
the spread and swiveled to
the required angle.
3. It is then plunged back into
the second convergent line
of the corner.
The pattern cutter should try to anticipate the possible
problems regarding materials usage and should
incorporate the solutions when preparing the pattern
and not when the pattern is being used to prepare a
cutting marker. For example, rounding off external
corners of a paper pattern as illustrated.

In total all the trimmings used for a garment can be a substantial cost item and so their selection and use require
careful consideration. There is no point in improving materials utilization if the savings made thrown away by using a
zip which is two or three centimeters longer than necessary or by using expensive tapes as stay tapes. The
professional approach is: sufficient for the intended purpose but no more.
There are two types of garment trimmings: primary and secondary. Primary includes the linings. Garment linings have
functional and consumer appeal objectives. Selecting linings for a garment totally depends on the practicalities.
Secondary trimmings includes closures (buttons, hooks and eyes, hooks and bars, press studs, rivets, zips, Velcro, etc.)
shoulder pads are also included in secondary trimmings.
Garment trimmings have relatively critical functions in the make up of garments and whilst price is important, so is
performance. There are good reasons why some trimmings are seemingly cheap, and their use without prior testing
can sometimes result in an expensive boomerang effect.
COST CONSCIOUSNESS
GARMENT TRIMMINGS

GARMENT TRIMMINGS
LININGS
Garment linings have functional and consumer appeal
objectives. Its fiber types and properties are viscose,
rayon, polyamide, polyester, etc.
Functional Appeal :
Garment linings have a number of functional purposes
besides their main one which is to cover all or part of
the interior surface of a garment. These other functions
include:
1. As linings have a sheer surface, putting on or taking
off a garment is a smooth and simple action.
2. Linings help to preserve the shape of skirts and
trousers made from loosely constructed or stretchy
materials.
3. Garments such as dresses, skirts and trousers,
made from diaphanous materials, sometimes need
cover up areas. Lining does this job well
4. Linings are often used to assist in the formation of
design features on garments.
Consumer Appeal :
An important factor of consumer appeal is to prevent a garment whose inside has an attractive appearance. The
surface and luster properties of the lining have a considerable influences on this, and those properties for linings most
widely used are, taffeta, crepe and satin.

2. Zips: Zips are a continuous form of closure as against buttons
which are intermitted.
GARMENT TRIMMINGS
CLOSURES
3. Velcro: This is one of the trade names for pressure
sensitive tapes which are used in sportswear and children
garments.

4. Hooks And Eyes: This is a relatively
simple closure system which is widely
used for the zip openings and dresses
and blouses made from light weight
materials.
5. Hooks And Bars: These are metal
closures which are used for trousers
and skirt waist bans.
5. Press Studs: These can be made from
plastic or metal and consist of two
working parts, male and female, which
are locked together when subjected to
a slight pressure.
6. Rivets: Whilst these are not closures
parts, they are widely used for
decorative purposes on denim
garments.
GARMENT TRIMMINGS
CLOSURES

Tapes are narrow bands of woven fabric
which are used for the following purposes in
the make up of clothing:
1. Decorative: These can be sewn on
edges with or without turning in the
edges of the tape itself.
2. Stretch Control: A narrow straight pre
positioned tape is used for this purpose
and it is caught into the stitching when
the seam or edge is sewn.
3. Finishing: Bias tapes, cut from the same
lining is used for the half lining of the
garment, are used to neaten and finish
the edges of the visible seams and
hems.
GARMENT TRIMMINGS
TAPES
Flat Tape Double Turned Tape
Bound Edges
Stay Tape On Armhole And Shoulder

Technology has been defined as a technical method of
achieving a practical purpose, but its original Greek root
meaning is the systematic treatment of an art. This latter
meaning is apt for the clothing industry because garment
design is a goal oriented art form which requires technology
to convert it into a finished product.
Clothing technology is a broad based subject because it
combines a number of individual technologies, with each
making a specialized contribution to the production of
clothing. For the designer and pattern cutter, these
technologies can be divided into two groups: NEED TO KNOW
and GOOD TO KNOW.
Clothing technology has a long history which could be said to
have started with the discovery of the needle about 1800 BC.
For many centuries only individual garments were made and
all the operations involved were executed by hand with the
aid of some very primitive tools. The production of clothing
was essentially a domestic industry dominated by local craft
guilds who first appeared in England during the thirteenth
century. It took until the middle of the nineteenth century for
clothing production to start becoming industrialized.
GARMENT TECHNOLOGY
HISTORY OF THE GARMENT TECHNOLOGY

For all practical purpose the sample room is the
research and development department of a clothing
factory, and one of the technical subjects which has to
be examined is cutting. There are four preparatory
processes which have to be carried out before starting
to cut samples, and they deal with, the pattern, grain
lines, pile direction and fabric pattern.
To cut a sample garment, the pattern components have
to be economically arranged, this is called Marker
Planning. There are two principles of marker planning
includes manual planning as well as computer aided
marker planning.
Checks and stripes are called, with good reason,
problem materials because of the many difficulties
involved in their cutting and sewing. There is no single
proven method of cutting these materials because cloth
patterns and garment patterns vary considerably, and
there is always the possibility that the cloth has been
distorted during its finishing process. However, there
are some basic techniques and approaches which can
be used.
GARMENT TECHNOLOGY
SAMPLE CUTTING

Fabric pattern refers to the form of the right side
of the cloth, and has three aspects:
1. One-way : This is where the pattern form
dictates that the garment patterns for every
size in the cutting marker must be positioned
in one direction only. For example, if the
motif on a printed fabric is an upright human
figure then it is preferable that the figures
stand on their feet not on their heads.
2. Two-way : This type of the pattern form has a
definite direction but it is not sufficiently
dominant to warrant one-way only
positioning. In most cases the pattern
components for each size can be positioned
one-up, one down, but this decision has to be
carefully evaluated.
3. Non-directional : This type of pattern form
has no definite directions and, subject to the
pile factor, pattern components for one size
can be positioned in either length direction.
SAMPLE CUTTING
FABRIC PATTERN
Two-Way
One-Way
Non-Directional

The lay(direction), length and density of the protruding
fibers on the surface of the right side of the cloth. The
question regarding pile is to what extent in influences
the positioning of pattern components on the cloth
whilst observing the grain line markings. All fabrics
have a pile factor and for practical purposes they can
be grouped under three headings:
1. One-way : On these fabrics there is a prominent
pile which lays in one direction only. Typical
examples of this type of cloth are, corduroy, velvet
and mohair.
2. Two-way : this type of cloth is one of the most
widely used in the clothing industry because the
pile factor allows for higher utilization than one
way fabrics.
3. No-pile : This refers to materials which have a
vertically negligible pile factor. This enables
components for one size to be positioned in
opposite directions.
SAMPLE CUTTING
PILE DIRECTION
One-way
Two-way
Markers for one-way pile fabric
Markers for two-way pile fabric

SAMPLE CUTTING
MARKER PLANING
To cut a sample garment, the pattern components have to be economically arranged according to their grain lines
and pile direction of the fabric which is to be cut. The regular form of this arrangement is a rectangle with the short
side equivalent to the net width of the fabric and the long side the length required to contain the pattern
components. The drawing of this arrangement is a cutting marker .
Net Width : This is sometimes called the cutable width and both terms refers to the width remaining after the
measurements of the two selvedges have been deducted from the gross width of the fabric.
Net Width
Length

SAMPLE CUTTING
CHECKS AND STRIPES
When planning to make sample garments in checked
or striped materials, the designer has to consider
whether the intended designs are suitable for the
selected materials.
A fabric with a strong pattern is usually the dominant
design feature of a garment and , in effect it is the
fabric which is being sold and not terns should retain
as much of their continuity as possible and not be
broken up by seams, darts, etc. in practical terms this
means that garment pattern for these materials
should contain the minimum number of components
which require matching or symmetry. A garment
design which has a simple assembly will greatly help
to minimize the costs of cutting and sewing.
As majority of garments are symmetrical it follows
that the pattern of a material should be positioned
symmetrically on the garment. The objective of
symmetrical positioning is to make sure that there is a
correspondence of the cloth pattern on opposite sides
of the garment, i.e. front to front, lapel to lapel,
pocket to pocket, etc.
Facing and top collarTop collar and back collar

SAMPLE CUTTING
SAMPLE BODICE OF CHECKS FABRIC
I worked practically with checked fabric to understand the behavior of a fabric of checks. Following are the processes
for making of the garment :
Checking The Checked Fabric Placing Of Paper Pattern With matching Checks On Side Seam
MarkingPattern Cutting

SAMPLE CUTTING
SAMPLE BODICE OF CHECKS FABRIC
Sewing With Matching Check Lines At
Side Seam
Back
Front

Every clothing manufacturer continually attempts to
produce garments with immediate sales appeal.
However, one of the most important materials used
for nearly every item of outerwear has no sales
appeal because it is invisible to the consumer. This
material is the fusible interlining, and they have
became an integral component of garment
construction.
A fusible combines base material thermoplastic
resins and coating. The fusing process produces what
is, in effect, the foundation of a garment and best
result can only be achieved when there is accurate
and continual control of the four processing
components.
There are three types of fusing press machinery,
steam press, flat bed press and conveyor belt press. It
is important to select correct fusible according to the
fabric type and the purpose. The resin used to make
a fusible should match the type of fabric being used
as it could damage the quality of fabric if not used
accordingly.
GARMENT TECHNOLOGY
THE PRINCIPLE OF FUSING TECHNOLOGY

A fusible combines the following three factors in its construction:
1. Base Material : Also called substrate.
2. Thermoplastic Resins : Synthetic resins which melt when subjected to heat and revert to their original solid state
when cooled.
3. Coating : The amount of resin deposited and how it is secured on to the base fabric.
The first figure shows the basic construction of a fusible and the other one illustrates how the resin is disbursed into
the top cloth when the two layers are bonded. The finished bond is referred to as a laminate.
CONSTRUCTION OF FUSIBLES
Fusible
Resin
Substrate
Top Cloth
The Components
The Laminate

The base materials are produced in a produced diversity of woven, knitted and
nonwoven forms, with each type having its own particular applications
according to its intended function non the garment . The materials can be
produced from natural or synthetic fibers or from blends of each of these fibers.
There are following different types of substrates :
1. Woven Substrates : Due to their construction, woven substrates are not
easily distorted by wear or cleaning and they extra large degree of control
on shrinkage and shape retention. Development of twill weaves with fine
warp threads have improved the handle and bulk properties of this type of
base cloth.
2. Knitted Substrates : Knitted substrates provide a degree of elasticity to the
laminate by yielding, together with the top cloth, to body and limb
movements. A big advantage of a weft-insert substrate is that it has a
natural handle whilst being resilient in the warp direction, i.e. around the
body area where it is used. As the knitting process is generally faster than
weaving, these materials are cheaper than woven substrates.
3. Non-woven Substrates : Non-woven substrates are made of a series or
mixture of fibers held together at bond sites. The most commonly used
fibers for general purpose fusible are viscose, polyester, acrylic and nylon.
The three standard web formations are random, parallel and cross- laid.
TYPES OF SUBSTRATES
Woven Substrates
Knitted Substrates
Non-Woven Substrates

TYPES OF RESINS
Resin Type
Fusing System Durability
Relative Cost
Steam Electric Wash Dry Clean
Polyethylene
(low density)
Limited Good Suitable Limited Low
Polyethylene
(high density)
Non
recommen
ded
Good Good Good Medium
Polyamides Good Good Limited Good High
Polyester Good Good Limited Good Medium
Plasticized C.A. Good Good Suitable Suitable Medium
Phenolic Limited Good Limited Suitable Medium

METHODS OF RESIN COATING
There is further scope for varying the properties of an interlining and its effect on the outer fabric of a garment by
varying the application of the resin to the base cloth. The most popular methods used are: scatter coating dry dot
printing paste coating
Scatter Coating : In scatter coating, specifically designed scattering heads are used to provide an even scatter under
automatic control. The resin is then softened in an oven, pressed on to the base cloth and cooled. This is the cheapest
method of making a fusible but the product is neither as uniform nor as flexible as printed coating
Dry Dot Printing : With dry dot printed coating, the powdered resin fills engraved holes on a roller. The base cloth
passes over a heated roller and then against the engraved roller. The powdered resin adheres to the cloth in the form
of dots. Oven heating follows the printing operation to ensure permanent adhesion. The temperature and pressure on
the two rollers is varied for different resin types. Patterns of dots can vary from 3 to 12 dots per centimeter according
to the garment manufacturer’s requirements.
Performed : Others methods of applying resins to base cloths include preformed systems, where a preformed net is
laminated to a base cloth to form precise dot patterns such as are used on top collar fusibles
Scatter Coating Dry Dot Printing Performed

FUSING PROCESS
Regardless of which fusible and machine are used, fusing is controlled by four processing components :
Temperature : This must be high enough to achieve the necessary temperature at the glue line which will change the
dry thermoplastic resin into a partially molten state in order that it will flow. For each resin there is a limited range
within which the correct level of flow is achieved. Too low a temperature gives poor flow and poor subsequent
adhesion. Too high a temperature gives too much flow, resulting in strike-back and strike-through and a reduction of
performance in most respects.
Pressure : The equipment must provide enough consistent pressure to ensure intimate contact between interlining
and outer cloth over the whole surface of the interlining. This ensures correct transfer of heat to the glue line and
correct penetration of resin among the fibres of the outer fabric. Too low a pressure reduces penetration with
consequent low adhesion. Too high a pressure provides excessive penetration of resin resulting in strike-back and
strike-through.
Time : The equipment must give enough time to allow the temperature and pressure to induce melting of the resin
and penetration of the outer fabric in order to produce a satisfactory bond; too much time may result in strike back
and strike-through. It will be appreciated that if a thick fabric and an interlining are put into a heated press in a cool
state, it may be several seconds before the resin reaches the required temperature.
Cooling : Enforced cooling is used so that the fused assemblies can be handled immediately after fusing. Cooling can
be induced by various systems, including water cooled plates, compressed air circulation and vacuum. Rapidly cooling
the fused assemblies 30- 35 degree Celsius makes for a higher level of productivity than if operators have to wait for
the assemblies to cool naturally.

FUSING MACHINERY
Steam press : In this case fusing takes place on presses of the type used
for intermediate and final pressing of made up garments. Temperature at
the glue line is achieved by steam from the head of the press. The resins
that fuse most successfully on a steam press are polyvinyl acetate and the
lower melting range of polyamides, but fusing is not as effective as when
using a dedicated press. A specialized use of a steam press for fusing is in
the positioning and initial attaching of fusible shoulder pads in men’s
jackets.
Flat bed fusing press : It consists of two horizontal metal platens between
which the fabric and interlining laminate are sandwiched. The top platen
is unpadded but the bottom platen has a resilient cover, typically silicone
rubber, though it may be a felt pad. Both platens have an outer cover of
PTFE, which can be cleaned easily to prevent straining and build-up of
resin that would cause garment parts to adhere to the platen.
Conveyor Belt Press : Also called continuous machines. Continuous fusing
presses generally reduce any problems associated with fusing pile fabrics
such as velvet because the duration of pressure on the fabric is short. For
the same reason, though, fabrics prone to heat shrinkage are likely to
shrink more when fused in a continuous press than when held firmly in a
flat bed press.

Although ultrasonic welding and resin bonding systems
have been developed as alternative forms, sewing still
remains the most predominant method of assembling
garments of all types. In every sector of clothing industry,
sewing operations are performed by a great variety of
machines, each of which has the capability for specific
operations on a particular category of garments or
fabrics.
There are many components of sewing, like, needles,
throat plate, presser foot, feet dogs, sewing threads, etc.
Effective sewing can only be achieved when there is an
accurately balanced combination of all types components
involved. It is said that the real strength of a chain is that
of its weakest link, and this also applies to sewing.
Stitches and seams are the basic elements of sewing, and
national and international standards have been
developed for accurately classifying them. These are
basically classified under British Standard 3870 Part1 and
Part2. with all the versatility of highly skilled machine
operators, there is no real substitute for the right
machine for the job.
GARMENT TECHNOLOGY
THE PRINCIPLES OF SEWING TECHNOLOGY

Irrespective of type, all sewing machines function in a similar way and the best
example for illustrating those elements is the regular sewing machine. There
are five basic components of sewing, needle, throat plate, pressure foot, feet
dogs and threads.
1. Needles : The function of sewing machine needle are to form a passage in
the material through which the needle thread can wholly or partially pass
and form a loop which can be picked up by a looper or hook mechanism.
Needles are made in straight or curved forms and their main construction
features are Butt, Shank, Shoulder, Blade, Grooves, Eye, Point, Tip.
2. Throat Plate : The throat plate is a static component which has slots for
the feed dogs, and one or more holes for needles or a slot for sewing-
machines such as zigzag.
3. Pressure Foot : The pressure foot is attached to the pressure bar of the
machine and its two prime purposes are to handle the material securely
and to maintain a slight pressure contact between the material and the
feed dogs.
4. Sewing Threads : Ideally a sewing thread should combine the best
properties of sewability and durability, and whilst there are many threads
available which approach this. Sewing threads for clothing can be divided
into three broad groups, cotton, synthetics and correspond.
COMPONENTS OF THE SEWING MACHINE

F
STITCHES
The basic classes in British Standard 3870 Part 1
are :
Class 100 : These are chain stitches formed from a
needle thread only. There are following three sub-
classes :
Class 101 : One Thread Basting
Class 103 : One Thread Felling for Hemming
Class 104 : One Thread Blind stitch for Hemming.
Class 200 : Originally, hand stitches, these are
mostly formed by single threads passed from one
side of the material to the other with each
successive penetration of the needle. There are
following sub-classes :
Class 202 : Saddle Stitch
Class 205 : Prick Stitch
Class 300 : These are also referred to as lock stitches because the top and under groups of threads are interlaced to
form the stitch. There are following sub-classes :
Class 301 : Two Threads Seams Multiple Plies
Class 304 : Two Thread Zig Zag Stitch, A Stretch Lockstitch
Class 306 : Two Thread Blind Stitch
Class 315 : Two Thread “Three Step Zig Zag”, A Stretch Lockstitch With More Stretch
Stitch Type 301 : Two-thread Lock Stitch

STITCHES
Class 400 : Multi-thread chain stitch uses one or more
needle threads and one or more looper thread stitch. Sub-
classes are as following :
Class 401 : Two Threads Seams Multiple Plies With
Moderate Stretch
Class 404 : Two Thread Topstitching or Seaming With
Stretch
Class 406 : There Threads “ Bottom Cover Stitch , A
Greater Stretch Chain stitch
Class 500 : These are known as over edge stitches
because at least one group of threads covers the edge of
the material. Following are the sub-classes :
Class 501 : One Thread One Needle Over Edge Stitch For Serging/ “Blanket Stitch”
Class 502 : Two Thread One Needle Over Edge Stitch For Serging
Class 503 : Two Thread Over Edge Stitch For Serging With Crossover On Edge Of The Fabric
Class 504 : Multiple (Three Thread) Over Edge Chain Stitch Using Needle Threads And Looper Threads. This is used for
assembling light weight knits and also for finishing hems.
Five Thread Safety Stitch : When the 401 chain stitch and the 504 overlock stitch are sewn simultaneously they form
what is called a five thread sfety stitch where the chain and overlock stiches are not connected. This stitch
combination is widely used to stitch denim and cheaper grade trousers.
Stitch Type 401 : Two-thread Chain Stitch

STITCHES
Mock Safety Stitch : It is formed from four thread
where one or two of the overlock threads interlace
with the needle thread. It is used for Garments of light
weight materials or for linings. It cannot be pressed
open due to its construction.
Class 600 : There are many complex stitch formations
in this class because the stitches can be formed from
three to nine threads and uses up to four needles. Sub-
calsses are as following :
Class 602 : Four Thread Cover Stitch Or Seaming Knits
Class 605 : Five Thread Cover Stitch Or Butt-seams
Class 607 : Six Thread With Cover Stitch Or Butt-seams
Class 700 : This is a single thread lock stitch similar to class 300, which has very limited applications because of its
inherent weakness. Sub-class is as following :
Class 701 : One Thread Typical Uses Lockstitch Tacking
Class 800 : This class covers combinations of two or more stitch classes which are sewn simultaneously, like the five
thread safety stitch. Different variations of this class are used for the assembly of swim wear.
Flat Butted Seam

SEAMS
British Standard 3870:1991 classified seam constructions under eight headings :
Class 1 –
Superimposed
This seam is constructed with a minimum of tw0o components and is
the most widely used seam construction in this class. Among others,
safety stitched and French seams are covered by
SSa Plain seam on dress blouses , trousers
SSe Enclosed seams at edges of collars and cuffs
SSf Straps seam taping or staying
SSk piped seam
SSp Hem or single needle French seam
SSq Sandwitch seams used to set waistbands
SSz Plain seam, busted and top stitch on each side
SSae French seam

SEAMS
Class 2 –
Lapped Seam
The best example of this seam is the lapped seam
construction used for many denim articles and for
certain types of blouses and shirts.
LSa Seam for leather and synthetic
LSc Side seam on betterment dress shirt
LSd Set patch pocket lables etc
LSf Yokes seams, men’s dress shirt

SEAMS
Class 3 –
Bound Seam
Used for constructing a decorative edge binding from
self or other material such as
Bsa Binding on edge with ribbon on leather
BSc Binding on edge with bias binding setting sleeve
placket
BSf Binding an edge with fabric
BSk Binding an edge with welt
BSo Binding an edge with plain fabric

SEAMS
Class 4 – Flat
Seam
In this class the seam edges do not overlap but are
butted together.
FSa Flat seams on sweat shirts and undergarments
Class 5 –
Decorative
Seam
This construction consists of a row or rows of stitches
sewn through one or more piles of fabric.
1 Twin needle stitch with a needle
2 Multi-needle seam
3 Version of pleats
4 Pin tucks

SEAMS
Class 6– Edge
Neatening
This could refer to the overlocked edge of a single ply
or to the single turned overlocked hem of a blouse
1 Typical of the hem on a dress or a pair of trouser in a
woven fabric. And then sewn up invisibly
2 A folding device is used in the construction of the hem
of a skirt or a shirt lining
3 Method of folding an edge that is sometimes used on
the button holes front of the shirt
4

SEAMS
Class 7–
Applied
These are called applied seams because they are used
to apply a decorative material to an edge or seam, such
as the lace edging on a nightdress sleeve.
1 A band of lace attached to the lower edge of a slip
2 Elastic braid on the edge of an undergarment
3 Inserted elastic on the leg of a swim suit
4 The additional item is self fabric plus interlining is
another version of the buttonhole band on a shirt
Class 8
Constructed from one ply of fabric only , this class is
commonly used for belt loops.
1 Construction for belt themselves and two possible
construction
2
3 Its quicker and cheaper construction and a special
machine required to fold the fabric

Pressing can be defined as a process which
changes the geometric fiber structure of the
area being pressed by the controlled application
of heat, steam and pressure. In this sense,
removing a crease from a garment involves the
same change of fiber lay as that required to
open a seam or to press a hem.
The total process of pressing cab be divided into
two groups of operations, under pressing and
top pressing. Regardless of fabric, type of
garment or the machinery and equipment
employed, the majority of pressing operations
have the same components, that is, steam,
pressure, drying and time.
It is no exaggeration to say that apart from
cutting, the two cornerstones of garment quality
are fusing and pressing process give the final
finish and appearance. The importance of
pressing should never be underestimated,
because of its decisive contribution to garment
quality and appeal.
GARMENT TECHNOLOGY
THE PRINCIPLES OF PRESSIGN TECHNOLOGY

Regardless of fabric, type of garment or the machinery and equipment employed, the majority of pressing operations
have the same components.
Steam : The purpose of using pressurized steam is to relax the fiber structure of the fabric and make it pliable enough
to be molded by manipulation and pressure.
Pressure : after steaming, manual or mechanical pressure is used to change the geometric fiber lay of the area being
pressed.
Drying : Following the application of steam and pressure, the area which has undergone these processes has to be
dried and cooled.
Time : the length of the time to which a component or garment is subjected to steaming, pressure and drying is a
combined function of team temperature, garment construction and the physical properties of the fabric.
THE PRINCIPLES OF PRESSIGN TECHNOLOGY
COMPONENTS OF PRESSIGN
Time
Steam Steam Steam

Finishing and inspection are the two major
operations in the manufacture of garments before
they are bagged or boxed and delivered to the
finish good warehouse. In most factories these two
operations are performed by separate
departments.
Finishing covers all the operations required to
complete the garment. This process includes
attaching buttons, sewing, labels, cleaning, final
touches, etc.
Inspection is curtail for sample garments because
apart from design considerations, there are a
number of important factors involved. These
includes fitting quality, measurements, viewing the
garment, quality standards, working methods, etc.
A great deal of responsibility is involved when a
completed sample is handed over to the marketing
department. By this action the designer has
confirmed that the garment meets all the planned,
relevant commercial and technical criteria, and
above all that quality is precisely what is required.
GARMENT TECHNOLOGY
GARMENT FINISHING AND INSPECTION

A sample production contains a large number of
standard operations, new operation are continually
being developed and sometimes these necessitate a
considerable amount of trial and error work.
Producing sample is a sporadic operation which
requires close and active direction by management
in order to achieve the planned objectives.
Unlike a regular production unit which works within
a uniform structure, the sample room operates
under different conditions. The operating conditions
of the sample room are in sharp contrast to those
prevailing in the factory. The personnel and
responsibilities of a sample garment making is relied
upon pattern maker, cutter, sewing machine
operators, special machine operators, pressers,
finishing, quality and training.
The objectives of any production system is to
produce efficiently the planned number of garments
within the allocated time and at the required quality.
Conditions and the scale of operation have a great
influence on how to be maximized.
GARMENT TECHNOLOGY
THE SAMPLE ROOM

The communication of information is an integral part of
the day to day working routine in the design
department. In all instances the accuracy of the
information transmitted is important because there is
no place for guesswork in an organization which wants
to be efficient.
Once the decision has been taken to develop a
particular design, the design will remain only an idea
unless it is translated into a garment. This means a
designer has to prepare a design specification which is a
detailed and precise presentation of the planned design
and technical objectives of the garment.
In a practical sense, the design specification is the
primary planning and control tool for a sample
garment. Without it the people involved with producing
samples have no definite information as to what to do
and how. In the majority of factories, the design
department is not expected to provide accurate and
finalized costing for sample garments, but to collate and
present a reliable basis for the costing clerk to work
from.
DESIGN DEPARTMENT OPERATION
COMMUNICATION

How the design and sample sections are organized
and managed is mainly a question of scale, but
whenever the circumstances the same principles are
applicable and these include management,
organization, planning and control, co-ordination,
personnel, etc.
The extent of managerial activities in the design
department is relative to its size, but whatever size
the department does have to be managed. Some
practical pointers are responsibility and authority,
administration, advancement, training, etc.
The management of design department requires a
large element of technocracy but as this department
becomes larger, the quality of a manager is based
less on technocratic ability and more on the
manager as a person. Management is concerned
with managing people and not with matching the
colours of buttons. A manager lacking industrial
social skills will at best only be capable of performing
some, but not all, of the basic functions of good
management.
DESIGN DEPARTMENT OPERATION
MANAGEMENT AND ORGANIZATION

THANK YOU FOR WATCHING
By Mamta Manwani
Two Year Diploma In Fashion Design
Confirming To NSQF Level 6 Of NSDC

Mamta Manwani. ,Fashion Design Second year Diploma Student of Dezyne E'cole College

Empfohlen

Empfohlen

Weitere ähnliche Inhalte

Was ist angesagt?

Was ist angesagt? (20)

Ähnlich wie Mamta Manwani. ,Fashion Design Second year Diploma Student of Dezyne E'cole College

Ähnlich wie Mamta Manwani. ,Fashion Design Second year Diploma Student of Dezyne E'cole College (20)

Mehr von dezyneecole

Mehr von dezyneecole (20)

Kürzlich hochgeladen

Kürzlich hochgeladen (20)

Mamta Manwani. ,Fashion Design Second year Diploma Student of Dezyne E'cole College