1. Stages of Dyeing: Fiber dyeing,
Yarn dyeing, Package dyeing, Piece dyeing, Cross
dyeing, Union dyeing, Jet dyeing,
Product dyeing.
Objective: To enable you to understand fibre structures, classes
of dyes and process of finishing with colours.
2. Stages of Dyeing
● Application of dye can be done at the spinning, fiber, yarn, fabric or garment
stage.
● Earlier the stage, the better is the penetration, resulting in better fastness.
● The later the stage of colour application, lower is the cost and quicker is the
response to the fashion trends.
● Colours which always stay in vogue (e.g., black, navy blue), can be dyes at spinning
or fiber stage.
● “Fad Colours”, which appear in one season only to make a brief appearance and
then vanish, are safer when dyes at fabric or garment stage.
● There are certain traditional Indian textiles crafts which require yarn dyeing.Such
as Pochampallis of Andhra Pradesh, Patolas and Gharcholas of Gujarat and Ikats of
4. Fiber Dyeing/ Stock Dyeing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAfUIyA2mUI
● Stock dyeing refers to the dyeing of fibers, or stock, before it is spun into
yarn. In this process of dyeing, loose fibers are dyed by circulating the
dye liquor continuously through fibers.
● It is done by putting loose, un-spun fibers into large tanks (kiers)
containing the dye bath, which is less than heated to proper temperature.
● From 500 to 3000 pounds (227 to 1364 kgs.) of fiber are dyed at one
time, and the average is about 1000 pounds (454 kgs.)
● Stock dyeing produce soft, heather like color effects.
● Usually result in excellent penetration of the dye into fiber and evenness
of color throughout.
● It is also known as top dyeing. The term top refers to fibers of wool from
which shorter fibers have been removed. Top is thus the select long
fibers that are used to spin worsted yarn. The top in the form of silver is
dyed and then blended with other color of dyed top to produce desired
blended heather shades.
6. ● There is 10-15% waste of dyed fiber through subsequent
manufacturing of Spinning and Weaving.
● There is strong element of Fashion risk in stock dyeing
because as to the final color of a fabric has to be made at
the earliest stage in its manufacturing.
● Expensive method of dyeing
● Process is time consuming.
● Production is relatively low.
● Excellent penetration of dye in to fiber
● It produces soft, heatherlike colour effect.
● Overall even colour is obtained.
Features of Stock Dyeing:
Tweed
fabric
7. Solution Pigmenting or Dope Dyeing
● This is a method applied for dyeing the
synthetic fibers.
● Dye is added to the solution before it is
extruded through the spinnerets for making
synthetic filaments.
● This gives a colorfast fiber as the pigments
are used which the fastest known colours.
8. Yarn dyeing
● Yarn dyeing, as its name implies is the dyeing of yarns
before they have woven or the knitted into fabrics.
● The main reason for the dyeing of yarn is for the ultimate
production of multi colored designs such as plaids,
stripes, and checks.
● Some typical yarn-dyed fabrics are multi colored gingham,
madras, brocade and multi-colored weft knits.
● Yarn dyeing is also used in special cases for solid-color
fabrics. Yarns may be dyed in different forms such as,
Skeins, Packages and Beams.
● There are four options that exist for colouration at the
yarn stage : tie and dyeing of yarns according to pre-
decided design, beam dyeing, package dyeing and skein
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K-BopSuK_RA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZGsuhM2Gsc
9. Skein Dyeing
● Skein Dyeing consists of immersing large, loosely wound
hands (skeins) of yarns into dye vats that are especially
designed for this purpose.
● Yarns are prepared in skein form and hung on perforated
rods which are placed in dye vessel that pumps the liquor
through the skeins.
● Soft, lofty yarns such as hand knitting yarns are usually
skein dyed.
● Skein dyeing is the most costly yarn-dye method.
● The loose arrangement of the yarn allows for excellent dye
penetration.
● Skein-dyed yarn is used to a considerable extent for
suiting and dress goods.
10.
11. Package Dyeing
● In Package Dyeing, yarn is wound on a small perforated spool
or tube called a package.
● Many spools fit into the dyeing machine in which the flow of
the dye bath alternates from the center to outside, and then
form outside to the center of the package.
● About a pound of the yarn is wound on a small perforated
spool or tubes called as packages.
● Most carded and combed cotton that is used for knitted
outerwear is package-dyed.
● Package dyed yarns do not retain the softness and loftiness
that skein-dyed yarns do.
● The dye has a chance to penetrate to the core of the yarn
similar in stock or fibre dyeing.
● Can be performed larger scale and gives uniform results.
15. Warp Beam Dyeing
● Beam Dyeing is a much larger version of package dyeing.
● An entire warp beam is wound onto a perforated cylinder,
which is then placed in the beam dyeing machine where
the flow of the dye bath alternates as in package dyeing.
● It is used when fabrics are to be woven with dyed warp
yarns.
● Beam dyeing is more economical than skein or package
dyeing.
● This has traditionally been followed for denim fabrics in
which a indigo blue beam dyed warp interlaces with a white
weft. The weave is warp faced twill weave, thus looking
predominantly blue on the face of the fabric and white on
the reverse side.
17. Fabric Dyeing or Piece Dyeing
● In this method, dyeing of cloth is carried out, after it is being woven
or knitted.
● It is the most common method of dyeing. The various methods
used for this type of dyeing include jet dyeing, Jig dyeing, pad
dyeing and beam dyeing.
● Dyeing is carried out in fabric stage, generally to produce single
solid color in the substrate.
● Dyeing constructed fabrics is called piece dyeing.
● The textile manufacturer can dye the whole fabric in batches
according to the fashion demands of the time thus avoiding
wastage and loss.
● The textile manufacturer can dye the whole fabric in batches
according to the fashion demands of the time thus avoiding
wastages and resultantly loss.
18. Methods of Piece Dyeing-
● Beck Dyeing- Fabric is in rope form.
● Jig dyeing- The fabric in jig dyeing is held on rollers at full width rather than in rope.
19. Methods of Piece Dyeing-
● Pad dyeing- Padding is also done while
holding the fabric at full width. The fabric is
passed through a trough having dye in it.
Then it is passed between two heavily rollers
which force the dye into the cloth and
squeeze out the excess dye. Then it is
passed through a heat chamber for letting
the dye to set. After that it is passed through
washer, rinser and dryer for completing the
process.
● Jet dyeing- Fabric is placed in a heated tube
where jets of dye solution are forced through
it at high pressure.
20. Jet Dyeing
● Jet dyeing machines are a very efficient in term of contact between the dye liquor and fabric .
● In this machine both fabric and dye liquor are in continuous movement.
● This improves level of dyeing in shorter dyeing time.
● Fabric is circulated through the dye bath in rope form. The movement of the fabric occurs by
circulating the dye-liquor through a venturi jet.
● Jet dyeing machines are pressurized and dyeing can takes place at high temperature 135-
150°C.
● Jets are builds to be used at low liquor ratios between 10:1 and 5:1 and lower.
● Types of Jet dyeing machine:
1. Overflow Dyeing Machine
2. Soft-flow Dyeing Machine
3. Airflow Dyeing Machine
21.
22. Advantages Jet Dyeing Machine
1. Dyeing time is short compared to beam dyeing.
2. Material to liquor ratio is 1:5 (or) 1:6
3. Production is high compared to beam dyeing machine.
4. Low consumption of water, energy and chemicals.
Disadvantages Jet Dyeing Machine
1. Cloth is dyed in rope form
2. Risk of entanglement
3. Chance for crease formation.
4. High initial investment and maintenance cost is high
23. Cross dyeing
Cross Dyeing: In cross dyeing, a multicolored fabric is
obtained. Fabric containing two or more fibers types is
purposely dyed so that each fiber type or variant accepts a
different type of dye and becomes a different colour. Fabrics
may be composed of-
● Fibers from different generic group,
● Natural and manufactured fibers, or
● Manufactured fibers from the same generic group when one fiber has been
modified to accept dyes from a different dye class. The end product depends
on the fiber arrangement in the fabric.
24. Cross dyeing
● Yarn, fabric or even garment made with two or more generic
fiber types “Blends” having different dyeing qualities is dyed a
single dye bath containing different classes of dyes.
● E.g. If a fabric is made of 67% Polyester and 33 % cotton fibres.
In such case both the fibre requires two different classes of
dyes. And if we choose one colour to dye the polyester fibre (say
Yellow) than any colour other than yellow can be used in the to
dye the cotton, then such type of dyeing is called Cross dyeing.
● If different fibers are blended in the same yarn a Heather-like
effect is obtained.
● The end product depends on the fiber arrangement in the fabric.
It may be check, a plaid, a tweed, a stripe, a muted color, a
heather effect, or some other design.
25. Union Dyeing
● A fabric containing fibers that accept dyes from different classes are dyed by this method,
with a result that the fabric is dyed in a solid colour.
● The fabrics can be either blends of two fibers, such as cotton and polyester – or mixtures in
which the warp yarns are made of one type and filling of another.
● The dyeing process includes one bath or two bath methods. By using the blend in various
ratios or by randomly using different yarns in weaving sequence good designs can be
obtained.
● For example- If a fabric is made of 67% Polyester and 33% of cotton fibres. In such case
both the fibre requires two different class of dyes. And if we choose one colour to dye the
polyester fibre than similar colour must be used in the same intensity to dye the cotton, then
such type of dyeing is called Union dyeing.
● One bath method is cheaper than two bath method but two bath method offers better result
on Polyester/Cotton blends compared to one bath method
26. Product Dyeing/
Garment Dyeing
● Dye when applied to finished products such as apparels and garments, it is called garment
dyeing or product dyeing. This helps the dyer to meet the demands of fashion colours on time
and does not require to stock huge amounts of dyed fabrics.
● This type of dyeing is generally carried out for the garments of non-tailored categories, such as
sweaters, swat shirts, hosiery and panty hoses etc.
● Tailored items like suits or dresses cannot be dyed as garments because the difference in
shrinkage of the various components of the garments will provide the distortion and misshape
the article.
● Garment dyeing is done by, placing suitable number of garments depending on the capacity of
the machine into large nylon net bag. Loosely packed 10-50 bags are then placed in dye bath
and kept agitated by a motor driven paddle.
27. Features of Garment Dyeing:
● Less fashion risk
● Material need not be dyed until shortly before the actual sale of the merchandise
● All fabric used in one garment must come from the same lot of fabric.
● Fabric must be tested for shrinkage before cutting of garments, and must be given
required tolerance to allow for shrinkage so that size will be accurate.
● Thread must be selected carefully and tested to be sure it will accept the dye in the
same way as the fabric.
● Labels, buttons and zippers must be compatible with the garment fabric in terms of
reaction to the dye and shrinkage.
● Many designer use this stage of dyeing as it showcases their signature style and they
have to cater to a limited market.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcPzVSusp34
