Based on a trip to explore Ireland's Wild Atlantic Way, Steve Gillick visited castles, Omey Island (on horseback), Cnoc Suain, the Doolin Cliff Walk, Valentia Island (by car), Slea Head, Sneem and Mizen Head, before turning north to Cork and back to Shannon Airport for the flight home.

1. TRAVEL2IRELAND
Discover the Extraordinary
Issue #1, Spring, 2014
 Castles are built…
 Riding to Omey Island
 Cnoc Suain –The Restful Hill
 The Doolin Cliff Walk
 Secrets of Scenic Slea Head
 The Power of Mizen Head
 Plus Valentia Island, Sneem,
Culinary Finds and more.

2. Map of my route, starting at
Shannon, heading north to
Galway, Recess and Cleggan,
then south to Mizen Head, east to
Cork and north to Newmarket-on-
Fergus and Shannon Airport.
Map courtesy of Tourism Ireland
www.ireland.com/wild-atlantic-way

3. Volume 1, Number 1
April, 2014
Greetings from the Editor-in-Chief
The Wildest that Ireland has to offer Page 3
In our Togetherness, Castles are Built Page 5
Riding to Omey Island: An afternoon in Cleggan Page 11
Cnoc Suain-The Restful Hill Page 13
The Doolin Cliff Walk Page 15
A Visit to Valentia Island Page 19
Secrets of Scenic Slea Head Page 21
Exploring the Knot in Sneem Page 26
The Power of Mizen Head Page 27
The ‘Teardrop’ at Mizen Head Back Cover
Plus: Hotels-Page 4, Foods-Page 18, Street Signs-Page 29
Front Cover Photo: Dingle Harbour, just as the sun is rising
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4. The Wildest that Ireland has to Offer
When I was invited to spend a week in the country by
Tourism Ireland, I was excited to return. In 2009 I flew
into Belfast, explored the Antrim Coast, and then took
a train to Cork, a bus to Ennis and then Galway, and
finally a train to Dublin for our last four days. This
two-week trip left lasting impressions of the scenery,
music, people, food, shopping, walking and well, just
about everything!
On my trip in January 2014, my assignment was to
travel part of the Wild Atlantic Way, a coastal route
that stretches from Belfast, around to Connemara,
south to Mizen Head and on to Kinsale, just south of
Cork. While the entire route is 2500 km, my portion
would explore 1100 km.
It didn’t take me long to understand that the “wild” part
of the route not only referred to the wind and waters of
the Atlantic, but also to the untamed energy of local
entrepreneurs and visionaries along the way who,
working with Tourism Ireland and other government
agencies, made it all happen.
One, out of many highlights of my trip was when I met
Gerard Kennedy, the owner of the Moorings
Guesthouse in the village of Portmagee. As we
chatted over breakfast, he mentioned that he was a
singer in a trad music group. In researching the Wild
Atlantic Way, I found the folk song “Come to the
Brower” which seemed to capture the power of the
ocean so I asked Gerard if he knew the tune. He not
only sang it but allowed me to record it. The tune
stayed with me for the rest of the trip and still creeps
into my mind when I think of ‘wild’ Ireland:
Will you come to the bower o’er the free
boundless ocean
Where the stupendous waves roll in thundering
motion
Where the mermaids are seen and the fierce
tempest gathers
To loved Erin the green, the dear land of our
fathers
Will you come, will you, will you, will you come to
the bower?
As for the “Secrets” of the Wild Atlantic Way, they are
really dreams and aspirations of individuals that add
real value to visitors exploring the coast and nearby
towns. They include:
 Discovering the hillside settlement of Cnoc
Suain, a labour of love of Charlie Troy and
Dearbhaill Standun in Spiddal.
 The estate walk with Noel at Ballynahinch
Castle in Recess.
 Riding an Irish Cobh over the low tide land
bridge to Omey Island with Siobhan of the
Cleggan Riding Stables.
 Chatting and sharing ideas with Pat Sweeney,
the visionary behind the walk from Doolin to
the Cliffs of Moher.
 Conversing with Pat Buckley as he showed me
the history and drama of Slea Head.
 Exploring Valentia Island with Gerard.
 Wandering around Sneem and Kenmare.
 Witnessing the awesome cliffs and waves at
Mizen Head with Stephen O’Sullivan.
 Staying at the elegant Hayfield Manor in Cork
 Crossing ‘Falconry Lesson’ off my ‘must do’ list
during my stay at Dromoland Castle.
Ireland has so much to offer and it’s my pleasure
to show off some of the memories of my travel.
For ideas to match your own dreams, contact
www.tourismireland.com.

5. 1 2
3 4
5
Aside from the two Castles
mentioned, I enjoyed staying at…
1) The House Hotel, Galway
2) Dingle Benners Hotel, Dingle
3) The Moorings Guesthouse,
Portmagee (That’s, Gerard
Kennedy, the owner and folk
singer)
4) The Brook Lane Hotel,
Kenmare
5) The Hayfield Manor, Cork

6. BallynahinchEstate

7. In our togetherness, Castles are built
There’s an Irish proverb that says “Trí na chéile a
thógtar na cáisléain”, meaning “In our
togetherness, castles are built”.
The double meaning of the expression refers to
teamwork and cooperation, as much as it relates to
tourism in Ireland, where the combination of warm
hospitality and amazing castle hotels elevate the
travellers’ experience to a high level of satisfaction,
enjoyment and comfort.
On a recent trip to Ireland I stayed in castles on my
first and last night—a perfect ‘comfort sandwich’.
Each castle had its own unique personality and charm
based on its history, location and the staff who work to
make guest stays—and lifestyle dreams--as
memorable as possible.
After arriving at Shannon Airport, I drove to Recess
for my night at Ballynahinch Castle Hotel and Estate.
I checked into my room and immediately engaged in
some Irish taste bud immersion, first with a crisp
Guinness beer and followed by freshly baked soda
bread, perfectly grilled scallops and tender, moist
baked cod. Then it was time to explore the ambiance
of the Castle: historic rooms, lush furniture and comfy
quiet lounges to relax and reflect.
The Ballynahinch Estate dates to the 16th
Century when the O’Flaherty Clan ruled the area. The castle
itself was built in 1756 by Richard Martin, a Member
of Parliament and later, the founder of the Irish
Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. In
the early 20th
Century, the castle was owned for a
time by Shri Sir Ranjitsinhji (Ranji, for short),
renowned as the Prince of Cricketers in Ireland.
In the drizzle and darkness of the next morning, I met
Noel my walking guide, for a two hour stroll along the
paths, laneways, fields, mazes, rivers, and
extraordinary views of the lake and the 12 Bens
Mountains. We climbed over old gateways, stood on
salmon fishing piers, and visited some of the old
estate cottages. Noel explained the history of the
Connemara area, a name that literally means ‘Hound
or Dog Sons of the Sea’; referring to one of the early
tribes who used the rugged, rocky coastline for
smuggling. He also noted the remnant of a tower on
the far side of the lake; recalling the exploits of Grace
O’Malley, the infamous Pirate Queen who plundered
ships in the area. The tour was fascinating and full of
photographic opportunities.
This article appeared in a different format in
www.travelindustrytoday.com
The Thomas Martin Reading Room, Ballynahinch Castle
The Reception area, Dromoland Castle

8. Top: Ballynahinch Castle, Recess Bottom: The Queen Anne Suite at Dromoland Castle, Newmarket-on-Fergus

9. After a tasty breakfast of grilled kippers and eggs, I
had to depart. For those fortunate to stay longer,
there are many outdoor activities to take in the
country air, including salmon fishing, cycling,
horseback riding, woodcock shooting and, not too
far off at Roundstone Bay on the Atlantic Ocean,
visitors can learn about lobster fishing from one of
the Ballynahinch staff –an activity that is listed as
one of the ‘secrets’ of the coastal drive known as
the Wild Atlantic Way.
For the next five days I visited different towns in the
South West before heading north, past Shannon, to
Newmarket-on-Fergus. On a cool and rainy day, I
entered a gated area where, across a golf course
(full of dedicated golfers), on the far side of the
lake, sat Dromoland Castle. This area was the
ancestral home of the O’Briens who were direct
descendants of Brian Boru, the High King of Ireland
in the 11th
Century. The first castle was built in
1014. A second castle/house appeared in the early
18th
Century and then the structure was rebuilt in
1963 with a castle/hotel design in mind.
The two suits of armour in the reception area
immediately established the theme for the Castle:
regal, luxurious, historical and very friendly. I was
taken up a flight of stairs marked “Private” to the
Queen Anne Suite where I was humbled by the
plush couches, wardrobes, 3 flat-screen
televisions--each welcoming me by name, a king-
size bed with views of the golf course and lake, and
a washroom equal to the size of my living room in
Toronto.
With camera in hand, I wandered around the red
carpeted, picture and portrait-filled corridors of the
Castle. The bar, once the estate library, was warm
and cozy, as was the lounge area. For lunch, I sat
on a six-inch deep couch, sipping a glass of Pinot
Noir and savouring six juicy fat Galway Bay
oysters.
At 3:00 pm, Jim Hennigar walked into the Castle
lobby with Alice, a very curious Harris Hawk,
perched on his arm. My Hawk Walk was about to
begin.
The corridor leading to the dining lounge and the
bar, Dromoland Castle, Newmarket-on-Fergus

10. Jim Hennigar with Alice, on my Hawk Walk
Alice

11. Ignoring the pouring rain, we walked into the woods of the estate and pretty soon I was given
my own thick leather glove and shown the proper way to stand when a Hawk is about to land on
my arm. Using a tiny morsel of meat as a lure, Alice flew from a branch and grabbed my glove
in her talons with an inelegant thump.
The next 90 minutes were a fascinating
introduction to the world of Hawks and
Falcons, their care, characteristics, eating
habits and even some of their history. A
‘Falconet’, for instance, was the name chosen
for a cannon used in the 15th
century. The
musket (gun) was named after the male
sparrow hawk and the Toyota Tercel
(automobile) takes its name from the male
peregrine falcon. Throughout our
conversation and walk, Alice would fly off into
the trees and anxiously await the next piece
of meat so she could swoop in for a bite.
The Hawk Walk ended at a shelter housing a
number of raptors. I was introduced to the
goshawk, various falcons and several owls,
before heading back to the castle to dry off
and warm up. What an amazing way to
spend an afternoon! For the record,
Dromoland Castle also offers golf, fishing,
cycling, clay shooting, archery, croquet,
tennis, horseback riding, and has a fully
appointed spa.
I stayed at some very fine hotels while in Ireland, but
somehow the castle experience stood out as
something special. In a way, I guess it appeals to our
dreams of what it would be like to live in a castle with
attentive service and delicious foods—and then to
actually experience it. Perhaps for some of my
generation, it appeals to the Disney stories we grew up
with; a realization of the Prince and the Pauper and all
the rags-to-riches imagineering to which we are all
exposed from time to time.
In the context of tourism, the theme of togetherness in
building castles (or flying of hawks) unleashes dreams
that many travellers embrace; a perfect complement to
the very idea of travel and the ability to turn dreams
and wishes into reality.

12. Cleggan lies on the Atlantic coast in Connemara, a district
in the central west of Ireland. I drove through the area,
stopping briefly in Barna Village and then visiting the
reconstructed site of Cnoc Suain in Spiddal, before
spending the night at Ballynahinch Castle in Recess. The
next day I drove the short distance to Cleggan.
As if rehearsed, the people that I met in Connemara used
the same words to describe the area. Charlie and
Dearbhaill in Spiddal, Noel at Ballynahinch Castle and
Noreen in Cleggan used almost the exact same words
within the first few minutes or our meeting and
conversation. “People come to Connemara for the
scenery, the fresh air and the peace and quiet”. And one
need only pull over to the side of the road for a photo
stop, to marvel at the mountains, the fields or the lakes
and to appreciate the quiet beauty of the area.
Even though I made several such photo stops between
Recess and Cleggan, it still only took forty minutes or so
to arrive. Cleggan literally means ‘head’ or ‘skull’ and
refers to the shape of the land on which it resides. There
is a main street consisting of restaurants and a few
shops, the entrance to the pier where boats depart for
Galway, and a church, in front of which likes a marker to
commemorate the Cleggan Bay Disaster of 1927 where
25 local fishermen lost their lives when a sudden gale
arose at sea.
I visited Oliver’s Seafood, where Noreen Higgin greeted
me and told me a bit more about the area known for its
fresh air and fresh seafood. I had a bowl of the tasty
chowder…so good and chock full of smoked salmon,
haddock, crab, mussels, white fish and prawns.
Scenery in Cleggan
Village
Oliver’s Seafood in Cleggan
Riding to Omey Island: An Afternoon in Cleggan

13. The Cleggan Riding Stables are just a short
distance away. My ‘guide’ for the afternoon was
Siobhan and once my horseback riding level was
determined (a bit more than beginner, a bit less
than a confident intermediate), I was assigned to
Henry, a very passive Irish Cobh. Equipped with
helmet, and riding boots, I signed the “I think I
know what I’m getting into” waiver, and then we
headed off with Henry and me following Siobhan
and Cathy, her Welsh Cobh.
We clip-clopped on small meandering country
roads past houses and school kids and were
greeted by curious horses, braying donkeys and
gawking cows, and after an hour, came to the
land bridge leading to Omey Island.
At this time of year (mid-January) the tide goes
out at 10:30 am and does not come in again until
11:00 pm. It was now about 1:45 pm and the first
car had just set out on the sea bed to cross over
to the island. During high tide the car would have
been entirely under water. We rode on the firm
sand, trotting a bit through the water with only the
sound the horses hooves and a flutter of wings as
a flock of ducks and some black and white
seagulls cleared a path for us.
Omey Island was the site of a monastery and
settlement dating to the 6th
century and founded
by St. Feichin. The name Omey is derived from
Gaelic and means ‘St. Feichin’s bed or seat’.
We wandered on the beach, through the thick
beds of seaweed and around some boulders but
pretty well stayed near the shoreline, chatting
about tourism and the attraction for many
travellers to experience silence and reflection: just
what a day of horseback riding way off the beaten
track will accomplish.
But all things must come to an end and as the sun
started to set, we slowly headed back to the
stables. I bade farewell to Henry and returned to
my car, ready to exchange the serenity of
Cleggan and the joy of riding to Omey on
horseback, for the Friday night restaurants, pubs
and trad music of Galway.
Horseback riding in Cleggan is listed as one of the
“Secrets of the Wild Atlantic Way”. With Galway
only 90 minutes away, this is a wonderful way to
spend an afternoon: slow, enjoyable, relaxing,
great conversation, lots of photos and of course,
the fresh air.
Noreen Higgin at Oliver’s in Cleggan
Siobhan on Cathy, as we return on the land
bridge from Omey Island to the stables

14. Top: One of the stone cottages dating to 1691 at Cnoc Suain Below: The Visionaries: Charlie Troy and Dearbhaill Standun

15. the tin whistle), traditional dancing, a Gaelic
lesson…or simply walk in the wilderness and
be transported back to the 17th
Century.
Cnoc Suain, pronounced
‘Kunnuk Soo-in’, literally
means ‘restful hill’ in
Gaelic/Irish. Celebrating the
fresh air and the peace and
quiet, Cnoc Suain is a cultural
retreat located in a 17th
century
hill-village amidst 200 acres of
Connemara wilderness. It’s
about a 30 minute drive from
Galway, just outside of the
village of Spiddal. The
thatched-roof cottages, dating back to 1691
were restored, stone-by-stone, and over the last
16 years Charlie Troy and his wife Dearbhaill
Standun have instituted award-winning
programs to re-awaken the knowledge of
Gaelic- Irish culture.
After a tour of the facilities with Charlie,
Dearbhaill invited me to enjoy coffee and
freshly baked scones, as she related that both
she and Charlie have educational backgrounds
that combine, music (Dearbhaill is an
accomplished fiddler), entertainment, botany,
geology (Charlie was a science teacher),
horticulture and storytelling. They dreamed of
creating an educational retreat that would
provide guests with an unforgettable experience
steeped in Gaelic culture.
Visitors can attend day or overnight
programs—as couples, families or groups—to
explore the mystery of the bogs (complete with
tales of the bog men), learn about herbs and
participate in cooking lessons, enjoy literary
evenings, musical adventures (learn to play
The restoration of the stone work and thatching
of the cottages was accomplished with the help
of two Romanian workers who were just
finishing a contract in the area. The cozy
cottages now include modern conveniences
including a kitchenette. This is yet another
“Secret” of the Wild Atlantic Way! For more
information, visit www.cnocsuain.com
Cnoc Suain
The Restful Hill

16. Above: “The Devil’s Hole” where the rough waters blast in and out between the cliffs, as they have done for 300 million years.
Below: Getting up close and personal with the Cliffs for an amazing perspective that only the trail can provide.

17. The Doolin Cliff Walk: Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Walk
Pat Sweeney is the active ingredient in
making the Cliffs come alive
There are several ways to visit the iconic Cliffs of Moher, including coach tours
and car rentals. But the most dramatic, meaningful, visual and experiential way
to visit the Cliffs is to embark on The Doolin Cliff Walk -a 5 ½ km walking trail
that begins at Gus O’Connor’s Pub in the village of Doolin, and ends at the Cliffs
of Moher. And the best way to appreciate the walking trail is to walk it with the
man who is primarily responsible for the trail’s existence: Pat Sweeney.
Pat grew up in the area with his farm house overlooking the Cliffs. Today, the
family B &B, “Doonagore Farmhouse”, named after a 15th
Century Castle that
once dominated the area, reflects Pat’s passionate perspective on the value of
the Cliffs: their history, their meaning and the forces of nature that created them
and changes them on a daily basis. Pat is the first to admit that this trail
constitutes Irelands “Wild Atlantic Walk”.
With Pat’s guidance, he and I walked the mostly gravel trail in January 2014.
He had to convince 38 local farmers to allow the trail to pass through their
property. The trail hugs the top of the Cliffs as they rise to 375 feet and then
higher to 702 feet. We passed by an ancient bridge framing one of the O’Brien
Castles in the background; a site that not too many visitors see, due to the
prominent location of Brien’s Tower, a few kilometers away, at the highest point
on the Cliffs.

18. Pat Sweeney knows every rock, stone, river and fence along the Burren Way (which is the more formal
name for the path), as well as the history of the area. He noted the lines on the rocks 370+ feet below us
and talked about the rock quarry that existed many years before. He indicated a flag stone with a hole lying
near the path and explained that at one point in time it was used as an anchor to lower fishermen down the
cliffs on ropes as well as a basket that was used to collect bird’s eggs. Pat further noted that 30,000 birds,
nest in the cliffs including Atlantic Puffins, hawks, gulls and ravens and that the best way to hear the sounds
of the Cliffs: waves, wind and bird calls, is to embark on the Doolin Cliff Walk.
And on a sadder note, Pat brought me to the spot where a tattered Irish flag was flapping in the wind—a
victim of the major storm that ripped through the area a few days before. The flag was placed as a memorial
to those who came to the Cliffs to wave farewell to their loved ones who were sailing to North America from
nearby Galway. And waving that white sheet of farewell was a heart breaking gesture as their relatives and
friends would most likely never return to Ireland. Pat reminded me that the three colours of the flag carry
with them the proud history of the land: Orange for William of Orange; White for Peace and Green for
Ireland, Erin’s Land.
One of the underlying themes of the walk—which did not take me long to appreciate, is the absolute value of
local knowledge—hearing the stories and the history and learning about nature from someone who grew up
in the area, but is also passionate about passing along the knowledge—not only to his three sons, in Pat’s
case—but to guests that visit the area.
This is a breathtaking, awesome walk with unbelievable scenery. This is one of those “Secrets” of the Wild
Atlantic Way that is a pleasure to discover. Pat noted that his oldest client so far has been 88 years old, so it
is definitely do-able for anyone who loves to walk, photograph, chat, listen to the waves crashing, and get up
close and personal with the rugged beauty of nature. www.doolincliffwalk.com
1 2
3 4
1) Diagonal lines of the old rock quarry by the Cliffs of Moher
2) The Irish flag was ripped apart by a huge storm in January, 2014. It marks the site of the tearful
farewell to those departing from nearby Galway and sailing to North America.
3) One of the river crossings on the Walk 4) The final ascent to the 702 foot level of the Cliffs

19. Culinary Stars 1)Grilled Scallops and 2)Kippers and Eggs at
Ballynahinch Castle 3) Galway Bay Oysters at Seafood@Kirwan’s
Lane, Galway 4)Guinness Beer-served fresh and clean
5)Smoked Salmon and eggs at The House Hotel, Galway
6)A traditional Irish breakfast 7)The breakfast buffet at Dingle
Benners Hotel 8)Murphy’s Beer (my favourite) 9)A wonderful meal
at the Brook Lane Hotel in Kenmare: Roast duck with mashed
potatoes, squash and cabbage. It was so tasty/so amazing.
1 2
3 4 5
7
9
5
6
8

20. Valentia Island, off Portmagee, is linked to the mainland by both a bridge and a ferry service. This was the terminus of the
transatlantic telegraph cable from Newfoundland, completed in 1866. There are walking trails leading to lookouts over the
ocean, picturesque narrow roads, the slate quarry used in the construction of the British Houses of Parliament, a trail of dinosaur
footprints, and the cafes and shops of Knightstown. Nearby is Little Skellig Island with its gannet and puffin populations, and
Skellig Michael, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where a 6th
century monastery is perched 160 meters above sea level.
Valentia Island

21. Scenery on Valentia Island…just follow the signs and the narrow roads.
The Maurice O’Neill bridge connects the island with the tiny fishing village of Portmagee

22. The Secrets of Dingle and Slea Head
Old stone cottages on the Slea Head Drive
Dingle Harbour Some of Dingle’s 52 Pubs

23. After spending a day exploring the Doolin Cliff
Walk, my schedule suggested that I take the
Shannon Ferry from Killimer to Tarbert, and
then continue on to Dingle. However this was
the one day of my trip that the GPS decided to
stop talking to me. So, holding the GPS in my
left hand and the steering wheel in my right
hand, I drove through the darkness of a late
January afternoon, around some pretty hairy
“S” turns and hairpin turns, and eventually
arrived safe and sound in the town of Dingle.
Michael, one of the staff at Dingle Benners
Hotel not only parked my car for me, but figured
out why the GPS had stopped talking. (Was it
something I said to it?) I celebrated with a nice
cold Murphy’s beer, so my day ended on a fairly
positive note.
After a very comfortable night at the hotel and a
great breakfast buffet the next morning, I
wandered through Dingle and down to the
picturesque harbour—just as the sun was
rising— to take in the scenery. This was to be
the theme for the day as I soon discovered
when I met Pat Buckley from Granter Chauffeur
Drive, to explore the Slea Head Drive. I will say
right off that Pat is very personable as well as
serving as a font of knowledge about the area.
It was a pleasure to spend the time with him,
chatting, learning and taking in the incredible
surroundings. Ho hum… yet another amazing
day in Ireland!
The name “Dingle” derives from the Irish
“Daingean Uí Chúis”, which refers to the
Fortress of the Hussey’s, a Flemish family that
came to the area in the 13th
Century. It’s a very
colourful town with craft shops, bakeries and
roughly 52 bars, 10 of which feature trad(itional)
music on various evenings of the week.
From Dingle we drove up to the Connor Pass
Lookout for a view of the countryside and to
learn a bit of the history of the area, before
reversing direction toward Slea Head.
In tourist season, the buses travel counter-
clockwise on the route (see map) and therefore
many visitors travel clockwise to avoid the
congestion. However in January, there were
few tourists, so we followed the counter
clockwise route, slowing down or stopping
whenever we saw something that drew our
attention. Here are just a few examples:
Gaeltacht: (pronounced as ‘Gale Tact’) refers to
a Gaelic Speaking area and on the Slea Head
Drive, there are several such cultural pockets
and lots of signs in both Gaelic and English.
http://www.dingle-peninsula.ie/sleahead.html
Next door to Dingle
Benners Hotel is Foxy
John’s Hardware Bar,
where I dropped in for a
pint.
Pat Buckley, my guide,
later explained that
there are a few such
bars in Ireland that
serve a dual purpose:
“You can buy rat poison
on your right and
Guinness on your left”

24. Above: The St. Brendan Memorial Below: St. Brendan’s departure point on the Slea Head Drive

25. Naomhog: literally, ‘little holy one’, also known as
a Currach, is a traditional wood frame boat
covered in felt or animal skins, and used for local
as well as sea voyages. Speculation is that this
was the type of boat used in the 5th
century when
St. Brendan made his voyage across the Atlantic
to North America.
St. Brendan’s Creek: St. Brendan, the patron
Saint of the Diocese of Kerry is said to have
prayed and fasted for 40 days on nearby Mount
Brendan along with 14 monks, before departing in
535 A.D. from St Brendan Creek, to spread the
Gospel to North America. Tradition holds that it
took 7 years to reach the West. St. Brendan died
in Galway in 578 A.D. The voyage was re-created
by Tim Severin and 4 colleagues in 1976. It took
them 13 months to arrive in Newfoundland,
proving that St. Brendan could very well have
made the trip in a Naumhog.
Gallarus Oratory: This ‘room of prayer” was built
in the 7th
or 8th
century in the shape of an inverted
boat—the only remaining perfect example in
existence.
Louis Mulcahey’s Pottery: One of several
pottery works in the area, Mulcahey still lives on
site. There is a workshop where visitors can “turn
a pot” (I made a rather large sake cup), a studio of
finished works including of impressive Druid
statues, a coffee shop with really tasty food and
friendly staff to answer questions.
Beach, where “Far and Away’ was filmed. The
crashing waves and the wind were the backdrop
for one of the scenes from the 1992 Ron Howard
film starring Nicole Kidman and Tom Cruise.
The Fahan Bee Hive Huts: Possibly dating to the
12th
Century, the five single-family huts (called
Clochan) were interconnected. At one time there
may have been over 400 clochan in the area after
the Norman invaders forced farmers away from
prosperous areas to marginal areas near Dingle.
Pat Buckley explaining about Naomhogs

26. Top: One the panoramic vistas of the Ocean along the Slea Head Drive Bottom: Ogham Stones dating to the 6th
to 9th
Centuries, containing an early medieval alphabet of lines and crosses, used in writing the Old Irish language

27. Sneem is only one of many colourful towns you pass through on the Wild
Atlantic Way. It is situated just west of Waterville (where you can see a tribute
to Charlie Chaplin who vacationed there) and just east of Kenmare—another
pleasant place to spend the evening and enjoy the shops, bars and harbour.
Sneem, in Irish, means ‘the knot’; the theory being that when the Sneem River
meets Kenmare Bay it forms a swirling knot of water. There is a sculpture park
in Sneem, several coffee houses and bars, including Dan Murphy’s (below).
Just park the car beside the park and spend some time wandering around,
relaxing and gazing at the rush of the water.
SNEEM

29. Mizen Head, in the County of Cork, is the
most southwesterly point of Ireland, and noted
for its ultra-dramatic views of the Wild Atlantic
crashing against the cliffs. At the very tip of
the peninsula, there is a lookout, as well as a
weather station, a lighthouse and a signal
station that is now a museum. This is
accessible by 99 steps leading from the
mainland Visitor Centre to the Arched Bridge
that spans some of the wild waves and offers
great photographs.
I was fortunate to meet with Sue Hill who
owns the Heron’s Cove Bed & Breakfast in
Goleen-about 5 km from Mizen Head. As the
Development Officer for Mizen Head, she has
been front and centre in promoting this tourist,
historic, adventure, nature attraction as a
perfect representation of what the Wild
Atlantic Way is all about. Sue arranged for
Stephen O’Sullivan, the Manager and a
former light keeper, to give me a personal tour
of the Visitor Centre, the walkways, the
museum and lookout areas, and I will say that
it was breathtaking!
This was the place where Guglielmo Marconi
set up one of his first telegraph stations, and
this is the ‘teardrop of land’ that was the last
landfall seen by Irish emigrants to North
America. The light of the Fastnet Lighthouse
can be seen for 19 miles. For those sailing
from America to Europe, this was the first
landfall to be seen.
As you wander the sometimes steep trails, it’s
not only the vistas of the sea that mesmerize
but also the wildlife (dolphins, whales, seals,
sharks) and the birdlife (gannets, kittiwakes
and choughs). Displays include life as a light
keeper, shipwrecks, a weather station and the
history of the area.
See also the back cover
The Power of Mizen Head

30. Wandering the Streets in Kenmare and Dingle

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The kabuki influence is emphasized at Aomori’s Warasse
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The Signal Station at Mizen Head