2. In many ways, Alberta, Canada is a lot like texasâso much so that itâs been referred to as the âTexas
of the North.â Albertaâs traditionally known for beef, oil, conservative politics and serious cowboy culture
and like Austin, Albertaâs urban hub, Calgary, is going through a growth spurt: fuelling a crafty culinary
scene, reeling in new residents from across the country and making all of Canada jealous with its current
mayor and social media star, Naheed Nenshi.
Calgary sits where the Canadian prairies meet the massive Rocky Mountains, teasing the city from the horizon.
The clash of landscapes results in big Alberta skies, sparkling clear blue rivers, unpredictable Chinook winds
and all kinds of outdoor adventures. And while the Rockies may seem far away, they can actually be explored
on short day trips from the city. Winter sports fanatics have long flocked to nearby Banff and Lake Louise, but
aside from hosting the 1988 Winter Olympics, Calgaryâs mostly been pigeonholed as just another Canadian city.
And, those who do travel here each year have often come for one big reason: the Calgary Stampede.
For two weeks in July, Calgaryâs Stampede Park morphs into a sea of white cowboy hats and horse trailers for
the annual rodeo show, with its tagline âThe Greatest Outdoor Show on Earth.â But when Stampede packs up
and the hats come off (which they always do, as itâs rare to see them outside of Stampede season), Calgaryâs
sophisticated urban side reappears, with booming nightlife and arts and culture scenes, and refined restaurants
focused on fresh, local ingredients.
Hereâs a look at both sides of Calgary.
4. The Main Draw: The rodeo and chuckwagon races are Stampedeâs main events. Daily
adrenaline-inducing rodeos feature bull riding, saddle bronc, bareback, tie-down
roping, steer wrestling and ladies barrel racing, as well as the fearless rodeo clowns, all
leading up to the final weekendâs showdown. Every evening, the chuckwagon racers
make their rounds, vying for major prize money (more than $1 million total) with the
Showdown Sunday winner receiving a $100,000 CAD prize. The chuckwagon races
are followed by a must-see 90-minute Grandstand variety show, backed by The Young
Canadians, a troupe of musical kids that gives the cast of Glee a run for their money.
This yearâs TransAlta Grandstand Show featured the Atherton Twins (acrobats of
Cirque du Soleil fame), Pole on Globes and the Alberta Ballet. As in Texas, a lot of
things are bigger in Alberta â including the epic fireworks displays that end the night.
The Parties: Sometimes described as âOktoberfest with cowboys,â thereâs no
shortage of beer and rowdy parties under the Nashville North and Cowboys tents, or
inside the jam-packed Cowboys casino and club located on the Stampede grounds
but open year-round. For off-site parties, head to Ranchmanâs Bar, but be prepared
to go early or try your luck with the long lines. Many are turned away throughout
the night. Ranchmanâs front bar is where the wild drinking (and mechanical bull
riding) happens, but thereâs a big dance floor in the back with live country bands,
and every so often, a sea of line dancing and two-stepping. (Everyone in Alberta
seems to know the steps.)
Photos by Stacey McLeod
6. If you have a sweet-and-savoury tooth, try the signature Stilton cheesecake â you wonât
regret it. Briggâs Kitchen + Bar is new to the scene, with a menu headed by Chef
Xavier Lecaze of Top Chef Canada fame. The menuâs full of slow-cooked, shareable
and meaty dishes, including a rich lobster mac nâ cheese ($16) and the over-the-top
48-ounce Tomahawk rib-eye steak ($75), best served family-styles (the cut features all
types of doneness, so it still works for groups with conflicting tastes). Or snack on fresh,
sharable plates at Hotel Artsâ Raw Bar, where you can also lounge poolside.
The Parties: Calgarians love to party, and massive downtown bars like Craft Beer
offer serious tap options, while next door at The National there are big communal
tables, games and the recent addition of bowling lanes. Midday cocktails around the
Hotel Arts pool are always hot. (In more ways than oneâthereâs usually some eye
candy.) For a more casual and local experience, try the low-key Ship & Anchor pub
where locals from all walks congregate for cold pints, or the Hop in Brew Pub,
a downtown hipster bar in an adorable house, with snug little rooms and local
brews.