Export House

1. DEPARTMENTS IN AN EXPORT HOUSE
Designing Department
Merchandising Department
FABRIC AND TRIMS Department(fabric Store And Trims/Accessories Store)
Sampling Department
Cad/Pattern Making Department
Testing Lab Department
Dyeing And Printing Department
IE Department
Embroidery Department
Cutting Department
Stitching Department
Finishing Department
Washing Department
Packing Department
Quality Control And Assurance Department
Export And Accounts Department
HR And Administration Department
Marketing Department

4. DESIGNING DEPARTMENT
Key focus areas in Design perspective:
• Season
• Trends/Forecast
• Stories/Themes
• Fabric
• Colors
• Silhouette

5. DESIGN TEAM
• Creates a range of designs for each season
• Researches on fabrics, sillohuates, colours schemes
predicted for each season
• make mood board, develop range new fabrics,
suppliers, give new design/trend info to respective
merchants
• show the range to all the buyers and export house is
catering to
• Range may be buyer specific or generic
• Only some buying house have a design team

6. DESIGN TEAM
• Designer makes a line sheet - sketch of the
garment, measurements, fabrics and trim
details,
• Technical packages- Teck pack
• Specification sheet- spec sheet
• product Brief sheet
• garment specification sheet

7. TECHNICAL PACKAGE
Contents Of A Tech-pack:
• Sketch of front and back view
• Construction details of all components
• spec sheet
• fabric and trims BOM
• labeling and packaging info
Spec sheet consists:
• Buyer name and label
• Buyer style no
• Description of garment
• Flat sketch of the garment, separate sketches for special details
• Date of issue of Tech pack
• Season for which it is to be sold.

8. • Fabric description - Name/no, content, count, construction, Trims or lining fabric is
applicable.
• Special fabric finish
• fabric swatch and copy of it
• Colors references in the form of swatches or pantone no.
• Sizing - numeric or alphabetical.
• Specs of the medium size to make samples - fro development spec sheet.
• In final approved spec sheet- graded specs of all sizes to be folioed for bulk production
• Spec tolerance for each measurement.
• Detailed garment construction giving all sewing info - seam type, top stitching, SPI in
different parts of the garment.
• BOM- bills of material details of all the trims to be used, article number size of the trim,
colour ad the placement.
• Embellishments - print/emb .artwork, placement and colors can be a hard copy or samples.
• Revisions done in spec sheet/techpack

10. FABRIC AND TRIMS STORES
• Headed by Store Manager
• It is a warehouse where all trims and fabric
are stored, measured/counted and inspected
• Issues fabric and trims to production
department
• Keeps a stock of basic trims which are
generally used in sampling of major buyers
• The entire stock/inventory management is
done in stores

11. Fabric store department
Functions of the fabric store department
 Receive the fabric as per BOM
 Fabric inspection.
 Conduct fabric test (e.g. Shrinkage, color fastness etc.)
 Issue to the production department as per the
requirement

12. Fabric audit procedure
10% random inspection for sampling or
lining or net fabric.
Inspection for production order fabric as per
buyer’s requirement.
Perform GSM cutting.
Perform shrinkage test.
Check the fabric for the bowing or skewing.
Check fabric roll for the defects.
Allocate points to the defects.
Inspections are done to
identify following flaws
•Knitting/Weaving defects
•Printing/dyeing defects
•Needle Run/Dye Streaks
•Skewing/Bowing
•Holes/Needle Chew
•ColorVariation/CenterSelvage

13. General Inspection Procedures
 Fabric inspection is done in suitable and safe
environment with enough ventilation and proper
lighting.
 Fabric passing through the inspection frame must be
between 45 - 60 degree angles to inspector and must be
done on appropriate Cool White light above viewing area.
Back light can be used as and when needed.
 Fabric speed on inspection machine must not be more
than 15 yards per minute.
 All fabric inspection must be done when 80% of good or
lot is received.
 Standard approved bulk dye lot standards for all
approved lots must be available prior to inspection.

14. Fabric Inspection 10-Point Systems
 It was developed in the 1950's. This system assigns
penalty points to each defect, depending on the
length of the defect

15. Fabric Inspection 4-Point Systems
 The 4-Point System, also called the American Apparel
Manufacturers (AAMA) point-grading system for
determining fabric quality, is widely used by producers of
apparel fabrics and is endorsed by the AAMA as well as
the ASQC (American Society or Quality Control).
 The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points
according to the size and significance of the defect. No
more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single
defect. Defect can be in either length or width direction,
the system remains the same. Only major defects are
considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor
defects.
 In this system, one should inspect at least 10 per cent of
the total rolls in the shipment and make sure to select at
least one roll of each colour way.

17. Total defect points per 100 square yards of fabric are calculated
and the acceptance criteria is generally not more than 40
penalty points. Fabric rolls containing more than 40 points are
considered "seconds".
The formula to calculate penalty points per 100 square yards is
given by:
(Total points scored in roll x 36000) : (fabric width in inches x
Total yards inspected)
The following are points for this system:
• No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single
defect.
• The fabric is graded regardless of the end-product.
• This system makes no provision for the probability of minor
defects.
4 point system is most widely used system in apparel industry
as it is easy to teach and learn.

19. Functions of the trims department
To receive incoming material.
To check material for attribute & variables.
To arrange the incoming material in allocated
racks.
To issue trims as per BOM for sampling and
production & other material as per requirement.
To maintain a record of incoming & outgoing
material.

22. SAMPLING
• Make high quality garments to show to buyer
for fitting purpose, within a short duration,
hence there is a need to be highly organised.
• Consists of sampling coordination, pattern
master and highly skilled tailors
• Computerised pattern making and grading
CAD
• Master is also responsible for working out avg
consumption of fabric, trims and lining
• Small area for finishing and packaging

23. Responsibilities of sampling
department
• Getting clarifications about style details from
merchandiser.
• Checking pattern’s workability.
• Preparation of different samples and getting
the buyer’s approval.
• Informing quality related problems,
encountered during preparing samples, to QC.
• Minimizing operations and consumption.
• Work with design and prepare new styles for
trade shows or buyer visit.

24. • Before placing any order to the factory, the buyer
wants to know whether the factory is capable of
producing the styles with the desired quality levels
or not. The samples decide the ability of exporters
to deal with any given style of garment. The buyer
accesses the capability of exporter only with the
help of samples. If the samples are of good Quality
naturally the buyers will be willing to place the
order to factory. The sample section handles four
to five buyers samples at the same time, each style
has four to six varieties of samples to be
dispatched to the buyer.
• This figure really indicates that, it is really a jam
packed section where, there is very limited time
given by buyers for sample submission deadlines.
• The most experienced and well performer
employee engaged in the sample room section.

25. Process Sequence of Garments Sample Making:
Received tech pack from the merchandiser/designer
↓
Pattern making
↓
Fabric cutting
↓
Print or embroidery (if required)
↓
Sewing
↓
Finishing
↓
QC check
↓
Send to the merchandiser/designer back

27. Types of sample prepared
• This is the first sample which is made for any style by most of the buyer.
• Design development is either done by buyer or factory
• The main purpose is to take the decision to proceed with the same line or not.
Design development
• Proto sample is developed at very initial stage and normally order is confirmed to the factory
based on proto sample .
• Proto sample is the rough interpretation of the enquiry done to acquaint the tailors with the style.
• It is usually done on the substitute fabrics, and using accessories, what is available and then
checked on the dress form.
• The buyer may make the necessary changes pertaining to the fit, the drape, the style details etc.
Proto sample
• Fit sample is made and send to conform the fit of the garment on live models or on dummy and
for approval of construction details.
• The fabric used for fit sample production is the actual fabric which is going to be used for bulk
production or sample yardage fabric is used.
Fit sample
• In order to promote the new style in the market normally buyer asks for photo shoot sample.
• Buyer uses this photo for marketing purpose either on catalogue or various media like, print, TV
or websites to see the response of the consumer.
Photo shoot sample
• The main purpose of salesman sample is to collect the order from the retailers.
• In Sales man sample actual accessory, actual fabric is used or sample yardage need to be used.
• This sample also very important stage of sampling as the sales of buyer depends upon this sample
presentation, look, feel of fabric is important.
Sales man / Marketing
/Showroom sample

28. Types of sample prepared
• The main purpose of size set sample is to check the factory's capability to make the
sample in all sizes
• 1-2 samples (or quantity specified by buyer) of each size need to send to buyer.
Size set sample
• The main purpose of GPT is to perform the physical and chemical testing on garment to
ensure the performance of the garment.
• GPT Sample is sent to 3rd party inspection and results are sent to both factory as well as
buyer.
• The tests done on garments are: Shrinkage, Color Fastness, Seam performance etc.
GPT sample (Garment
Performance Test)
• PP sample is considered to be a contract between the buyer and the factory.
• It has to be made in original fabric and trims
• Washing, embroidery and printing should match to actual.
• PP Sample is the standard for production and bulk production garments should be
identical to PP sample.
• The factory can start the production of bulk garment only after the approval of
preproduction sample.
Pre- production sample
• Wash sample is made and submitted to buyer for assessment of feel and handle of fabric
after washing.
Wash sample
• The top of production is sent to the buyer as soon initial pieces are come out of sewing
line.
• In TOP sample Buyer tries to evaluate the actual manufacturing of the style.
• Buyer check whether bulk production is as per submitted sample or not.
TOP sample (Top of
Production)
• Few buyers may ask for the shipment samples which factory needs to pull form the actual
shipment and sent to buyer.
• The main purpose of this sample is to assure buyer about the actual shipment dispatch.
Shipment sample

29. CAD DEPARTMENT

30. • Rreduction in lead times.
• Reduction in labour costs for generating new styles &
modifying existing ones.
• Achieving reductions in fabric utilization.
• Block’s images stored in computer.
• Grading technique replaced by expert system. So
that grading is now in the form of tables and auto
matched.
• Percentage wasted; computed and displayed for
each layout.
• Fabric pattern constraints incorporate in the
program.
• Cutters replaced by CAD/CAM.
• Minimizing operations and consumption.
31

31. CAD SOFTWARES
• TUKA CAD
• LECTRA
• GERBER
• OPTITEX
WORK FLOW:
• Pattern Making
• Pattern Grading
• Marker Making
• 3D virtual Designing

32. PATTERN MAKING

33. PATTERN GRADING

34. Marker Making

35. MARKER
• Marker - is a diagram of a precise
arrangement of pattern pieces for a specific
style and the sizes to be cut from a single
spread.
• Normally the width of a marker is kept
according to the cuttable width of the fabric
and the length of a marker normally depends
on the number and sizes of pattern placed on
a marker. The length also depends on Number
of garments to be produced from a spread lay
And Length of cutting table.

36. 3D virtual Designing

37. PLOTTERS
Modern-day plotters hold a
handful of features that
differentiate them from home
and office printers. They are
mainly much wider than the
normal printer and
incorporate auto cutting and
more cutting-edge print
management tools. The
plotter’s wide format design
facilitates quick, high-
resolution images, printing to
the size of 300 feet long and
some 50 inches wide.

38. PRODUCTION SYSTEM OF SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
Make through system :-
• It is the traditional method of manufacture in which
an operator makes right through one garment at a
time. That is one operator will do all the stages of the
sewing operations of one garment and after
completing it he will go for the next garment.
The advantages of the make through system are:
• Quick throughput time
• Easy to supervisor.
The disadvantages of the make through systems are:
• low productivity
• high labour cost ,only very experienced operator can
be used it is a system only suitable in couture and
sample making

39. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
• This Department is actually manufactures
garments
• Pre production samples are made in
production
• It does layering of fabric, cutting, bundling,
ticketing, machine maintenance, sewing,
finishing and packaging.
• Merchandise time study officer (he calculates
how much time it takes to make a garment)

40. PPC Meetings (production planning and
control)
• this dept. has factory design and pro design engineers
• Headed by Production manager, it scheduled flow and
work
• Immediately after order confirmation and merchant
has to be book machines with PRODUCTION
department by giving them order detail and time of
production based on garment TNA
• This is given in form of am internal PO.
• All merchants issue internal POs to PPC/logistics
• The departments assimilates no of garments to be
made in each week/month, relate it to the capacity
available, allocate machinery accordingly and arrange
for special/extra machinery/ people.

41. SUB DEPARTMENTS ON PRODUCTION FLOOR
• Fabric and trims department
• Cad/Pattern making department
• LAB Testing department
• Industrial Engineering department
• Cutting department/ticketing and bundling
• Stitching department
• Finishing department
• Engineering
• Embroidery department
• Washing department
• quality control department
• quality checking department
• Packing department

42. QUALITY
• Quality department handles all areas related
to quality of garments and inspection
• Any kind of quality problems arising in
shipment are deal with this department
• In some companies, QC may be a part of
production department or it may be a
separate entity.

43. MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
ROLE AND RESPONSIBILITIES OF
MERCHANT

44. Merchandising
• Responsible for all actions in the organisation,
get orders and increase the turnover.
• Find source of supply and order bulk fabric and
trims, sampling, follow-ups, communication,
arrange meetings, quality checks and aim for a
timely shipment.
• Analysing trends, studying past and current sales
working out future strategies
• Costing is very imp and crucial function.
• efficient production
• meet customers delivery requirement.

45. TIPS OF EFFECTIVE MERCHANT
• A Sharp Merchandiser Needs To Be Smart
Negotiator, Coordinator, Team Player.
• Blend In Team
• Work Productively
• Effective Communication- Clear, Precise And Brief
• Delegate Responsibility
• Multi Task
• Priorities Activities Of The Day

46. Merchant must be
• Creative
• Organized
• Detail oriented
• Willing to rake initiative
• Can calculate risks
• Must be inquisitive
• Stand alone merchandising activities are
obsolete, division are seamlessly integrated

47. IMPORTANT POINTS FOR A
MERCHANDISER
• DONOT ASSUME
• BE SPECIFIC
• HAVE WRITTEN PROOF ALWAYS
• THICK SKINNED
• AGGRESSIVE FOLLOW UPS

48. SIX Rights of merchandising
1. RIGHT MERCHANDISE
• Selecting and presenting the right
merchandise in critical
• Each market segment and physical body times
with each segment demand diff silhouettes
• Fabrics & trims should be
compatible/matching
• Assortment must have all types of products
(basic, trendy, seasonal)
• Also correct size, colour and ratio

49. • Right merchandise assortment
Is the no of pieced per sizes per colour for each
style
Right style/colour/sillohuates to fulfil needs &
deserves to customers
Enough stock must be available to meet planned
sales and gives customer assortment for
selection
Adequate turnover of inventory to provide cash
flow

50. 2.Right quantity
• Right assortment - colour/size ratio
• Quantity - demand and supply. Decline phase- obsolete
soon. Hence, demand is less, supply more
• Merchant has to ensure goods are shipped on time,
else discounts/ cancellations
• Maintain shipping quantity and assortment as per PO
• +/- 5% of order qty Further decreases - chargeback for
loss of sales
• Keep track of quantity & inform buyer whenever
applicable

51. 3. Right price
• Price should be high enough to make profit, low to get
business
• Analyse profit - Loss statement & last year sales reports
• Right price of production & components
• Make changes in fabric content/trims
• Price is a function of profit & cost. primary concern of a
manufacture- to get a product at right price.
• Price involves correct estimation of cost of
manufacturing fabric, trims, labour etc.
• Merchants duty arrive at a price which makes
production feasible and product saleable at a profit
accepted by target customer
• Merchants need to be aware of latest trends in fabrics
and trims and their prices.

52. 4. Right time
• Merchant should know the lead time of the fabric
and trims.
• Based on lead times, TNA has to be made by the
merchant on receipt of sampling programme and
bulk order completion.
• If shipment is not in store at the requared time,
will miss the selling season.
• Delayed shipment- orders are discounted. if
shipment is delayed beyond a certain timeline,
cancelled. Retail distribution chain gets disturbed
leading to loss of sales.
• Ensure that most appropriate transportation is
used which does not damage a product.

53. 5. RIGHT QUALITY
• Is the standard acceptable to customers and satisfies the
need of product. It includes reliability, responsiveness,
compliance and compatibility.
• Ensure goods are shipped as per desired quality levels.
Cost of guarantee, discounts, returned goods. Cancelled
offers, loss of sales, debit notes.
• Establish reliability and validity of the company and
product of creating and maintaining standards.
• Quality manual refers to the list of quality standards
/requirement for a buyer/brand. manual will have all the
debits on fit, construction, sewing, finishing and packaging
standards.
• Specification sheet- every style will be reviewed against
the quality manual and spec sheet with production team
to ensure all the quality parameters can be met. If not,
then revised tolerances have to be suggested to buyer.

54. 6. RIGHT PLACE
• right location (delivery)
• placement of the departments within the
store.
• Website catalogue, store or a customer home.
• Trade shows - India and international
• Advertise events.

56. Job responsibilities of a merchant are:
• Communication with buyers in terms of sample
development, approvals, getting new orders.
• Procure order and order confirmation.
• Style costing and price negotiation with buyer/ Price
quoting.
• Making production Time and action calendar - based on
the process flow of an order and indicates who is the
responsible for the task. This helps merchant to execute
an order whether it is on time or behind schedule.
• Calculating consumption of raw materials. Sourcing and
purchasing of raw materials. Preparing Bill of material
and handover it to fabric and trim department - Based on
tech pack (technical sheet), merchant prepares material
requirement sheet for the garment construction.

57. Execution of sourcing trims / accessories - merchants do
follow up with supplier for the raw material.(on time delivery)
Preparing production file - Prepares production file with
details documents, approvals, samples and swatches and
comments on samples from buyer.
Takes approvals of printing, embroidery, trims, fabrics,
artworks and other subcontracting work from the buyer.
Development of bit loom, knit down, print strike-off,
embroidery strike off ,Lab dip and approval of lab dip
Conducting lab tests of fabric, trims, garment.

58. Conduct Preproduction meeting with quality team and
production team. In this meeting merchants discuss style
construction details, production plan, and handover production
file to the production team. One copy of production file is also
made for quality team.
Execution and follow ups with orders whether it is running on
time.
Coordination with buyer or buying house if any clarification is
required during production.
Giving clarification to production and quality team if required
related to style workmanship/trims etc.
Coordinating with buying house QC or 3rd Party QC for
initial/mid and final inspection of shipment.

59. Keeping track of style status and updating the same to top
management and buying house representatives.
Quality control - Ensure quality of samples and finished
products
Ensure on time delivery
Coordination with shipping and documentation department for
forwarding the approved shipment.
Attend buyer’s meeting - to discuss new developments,
correction and changes in on going sampling

60. WORK FLOW
TECH PACK RECEIVE
COSTING
PROTO SAMPLE
PROTO SAMPLE APPROVAL
EMB/ LAB DIP APPROVAL
SALESMAN SAMPLE
1 FIT SAMPLE
1ST FIT COMMENTS
2ND FIT SAMPLE
2ND FIT COMMENTS
FINAL PATTERNS

61. PO RECEIVE
ORDERING BULK FABRIC/TRIMS
BULK FABRIC AND TRIMS IN HOUSE
FABRIC AND TRIMS INSPECTION.
BULK LOTS AND TRIMS SENT FOR APPROVAL
BULK LOT N TRIMS COMMENTS RECVD
TESTING OF FABRIC AND SAMPLES
TEST RESULTS RECEIVED
MARKER MAKING N GRADING
SIZE SET SAMPLES SENT FOR APPROVAL
COMMENTS ON SIZE SETS
REVISED SIZE SETS
REVISED SIZE SET COMMENTS/APPROVAL
CUTTING
EMBROIDERY/ PRINTING

62. PILOT RUN
ONLINE INSPECTION
PPS SENT FOR APPROVAL
PPS COMMENTS/ APPROVAL.
CUTTING START DATE
CUTTING END DATE
EMBROIDERY START
EMBROIDERY END
SEWING START DATE
SEWING FINISH DATE
FINISHING START AND END
PACKAGING START AND END
MIDLINE INSPECTION
FINAL INSPECTION
EX FACTORY
SHIPPING

63. STYLE COSTING
Costing is an actual figure of cost materials and
labour required for producing of the garment.
For costing merchant need: techpack, prototype of
the garment, production pattern to analysed:
material consumption and construction cost,
expenses for cutting, labour, testing, factory
overheads(includes all the daily cost of running the
factory), sales commitions(7% to 10%), manufacturer
profit.
The final cost is plotted on a cost sheet.

64. THE COST SHEET CONSIST OF:
1. Material:- The total amount fabric needed for
the garment is estimated and then multiplied by
the cost per metre to find the total material cost
per garment
2. Trims:- the cost of trims needed for each
garment are multiplied by the number of
garments to be made, gives the cost per
garment.
3. Production:- Pattern Making, Grading, and
Marking, cost divide the No of the garment.

65. • Spreading and Cutting:- The cost for cutting “in
house” labour salary cost multiply by the
number of hours it take to cut the style(whole
slot) and divide by the numbers of unit cut.
• Assembly:- Break down labour cost by each
operation. To figure total cost for a whole
garment by combine the costs of each operation
while assemble the garment.
• Finishing:- Cost must be including to cover final
preparations for shipping.( Washing, tread
cutting, pressing, folding ,packing.)

66. • Freight:- The cost of shipping from the
manufacturer to the buyer. For domestic
shipments, the garments usually trucked. If
the garment are imported, then a percentage
of the air or sea freight cost should be added
to the cost of each garment.
Sea transportation is cheaper and adds less cost
to the garment, but lead time is more.

67. TNA
• Time and Action (TNA) calendar is one of the
most important tools for managing a project. In
garment manufacturing each order is not less
than a project to a merchant. Because, from
order receiving to order completion involve
number of tasks of various duration and
requirement of resources. Few tasks come one
after another and others move at the same
time. Like number of processes, lot of people
are involved to accomplish an order.

68. What is a Time and Action Calendar?
• Normally merchants prepare a plan in a spread
sheet listing down key processes in one column
and planned date of action for each processes is
noted in another. This planning sheet is called
time and action calendar. Once TNA calendar is
made, merchant can easily list down her daily
'to do list' for the day and start doing work one
by one. According to TNA schedule processes
are executed on daily basis to track whether an
order is on track or getting delayed.

69. TIMELINE IDEAS
• Submission desklooms /lab dips /strike offs, -in
- corporate 5-7 working days for buyers
comments/approvals.
• Fit sample - to make factory needs 3-5 days
• buyer need 5-7 days for giving comments n
ensuring revised tech pack.
• Fabric lead time 30-60 days
• Trim lead time 30-45 days, more for imported
trims.

70. garment production time 30-45 days, add more
time if garment is washed/embellished.
Test reports- 5 working days
Goods should be ex factories 3 days before
delivery dates for sea shipments
Sailing time 3 weeks, airing time 2 weeks.

71. LAB TESTING DEPARTMENT
Testing of fabric and garment:
Quality management is the function and process
within an organization to achieve quality of goods and
services for the customer satisfaction. In apparel
manufacturing industry, testing and approvals at
different stages are an important process to produce
the suitable product for the end and to avoid any
problems at the final stages of production. Testing is
basically done in laboratory of the factory and which
are not facilitated in factory lab, may be tested to the
independent out side lab. Some time third party lab is
recommended by the buyer.

72. Buyer also specify about the test method to be follow.
AATCCC andASTM are twoAmerican standarts that are used
in the lab.AATCCC standards are given for color fastness and
dimentional stability.ASTM covers all the physical tests.
IOS is a European standard, which covers the color fastness te
st and the dimensional stability tests.
WORK FLOW:
Testing lab receives the fabric to be tested along with a test requ
est form, this form contains all the details like: buyer name, style,
Sample description, vendor name.Aswatch of fabric (1/2 to 2 m
eter) / garment to be tested.All test should be complete whithin
4-5 working days

73. Different kind of testing of fabric and garment:
1. Color fastness test: There are different kind of fastness in
different condition some of them are as follows:
•Crocking; through this method transfer of color of fabric or
garment is evaluated in dry and wet condition through crocking
machine by using crock cloth and chromatic transference
scale.
•Color fastness to light; this is for evaluation of color fading in
sunlight. How much color would fade in a specified condition of
sunlight?
•Color fastness to laundering; this test is basically for the
evaluation of fabric color loss due to detergent solution and
abrasive action equivalent to five home laundering. Minimum
five wash guarantee is given by all the reputed fashion brand
for their product.

74. •Colorfastness to perspiration; this is for determining
the color loss of fabric through perspiration. Three specimen
of color textile are soaked in simulated acid perspiration
solution and allowed to dry slowly at a slightly elevated
temperature in a circulating air oven for at least six hour.
•Color fastness to water; Dyed, colored or printed
fabrics resistance to water is tested through this method. De-
ionized or distilled water is used for this test method because
natural water is variable in composition at different places.
•Colorfastness to sea water; Swim wear, bath wear
made from colored yarn, dyed fabrics or printed fabrics are
need to be tested for this. Artificial sea (Salted) water is used
for this test method because composition of sea water varies
at different places

75. 2. Construction test:
Construction of fabric is based on yarn standard and
weaving quality. Following two kind of tests are important to
know the construction and characteristics of fabrics;
•Yarn quality and count test;
Measurement of yarn thickness, plies and quality of yarn
spinning and weave, comes under this test.
•Weight test;
Measurement of fabric mass per unit area / weight,
comes under this test.
3. Performance tests:
Dimensional changes in fabrics and snagging
resistance of fabrics come under this test.

76. •Shrinkage / dimensional changes; this is generic
term for changes in length and width of fabric in a
specified condition of wet processing. The changes
are usually expressed in term of percentage
compare to the original fabric. This test is important
to know the dimensional changes of any kind of
fabric while laundering at home in a given
temperature, process and method.
•Snagging resistance of fabrics; snagging is
common feature in woven and knitted fabrics and it
is created when an object pulls, plucks, scratches,
drags the yarns from its normal pattern. Snagging is
of basically three types.
•Pilling resistance; Formation of pills and irregular
surface due to rubbing is measured through this test.

77. Strength and stretch test:
Tear resistance; Average force required to tear the fabric from
a fixed distance.
Seam slippage; Measurement of force required to slip the
seam from fabrics, which are joined together. In this method two
fabrics which are joined together through the stitches are pull in
opposite direction to know the seam stability.
Strength test; Determination of breaking force of woven textile
fabrics in dry and wet both condition while clamping and pulling
the fabrics in opposite direction. Force applied to tear the fabric
is measured in this test.This is also called bursting strength test.
Stretch and growth test; this test is recommended for the
knitted fabrics.In specific condition and specific load, in length
and width wise how much elongation happens in knitted
fabrics.

78. 7.Azo test: Chemical used in dying and printing of fabrics or
sewing threads are as per the European guidelines or not?
Chemicals which are not good for skin must not be used.This
test is very important and mandatory for many European
countries.
8.Accessories tests:Accessories used in apparel such as
metal button, zip, buckle etc also should be tested for nickel
free, toxic free, ferrous or non ferrous metal etc.
9. Subsidiary tests: Tests required to conduct main test, may
call subsidiary test. Following may be considered as
subsidiary test;
•pH test of water or any solution before wet processing.This
is part of main test and before going to make any solution of
chemical, water pH is tested for accuracy.

79. •Color matching test through color matching cabinet.This is
part of main test and use to see the result of color loss after
completion of any test comparison with original fabrics in
different lights. Mainly five standards of lights are
internationally recognized. D65 (day light), CWF, IncA, TL84 /
TL83 and UV light.After doing all the above test this cabinet is
required to match the tested fabrics or garments with original
sample.
Many of the tests, factory can do in-house and can save time
and cost.All the test and approval are not required. Factory
may do the essential and required test as according to buyer
standard or may make own standard of necessary test for
maintaining quality parameter.

80. Based on above tests, following approvals are required
Physical test properties of the fabric:
Fibre composition and construction of fabric should be
evaluated in this approval.
Sample fabric approval:
Approve of bulk fabric in terms of quality, performance
standard, handle and appearance and construction. Fabric
technologist of buyer or internal technologist should approve.
Lab dip approval:
for color shade, handle, construction, appearance, quality and
performance.
Bulk fabric approval for construction, appearance,
performance, and color fastnesses. Based on lab dip approval,
and this approval is from the bulk fabric lot.

81. FINISHING
After assembly, the garments now come
for finishing- a key stage of garment
manufacturing process. Finishing is done
to prepare the final garment according to
the quality standards of the buyer, before
packing it for shipment.

82. GARMENT COMES FROM PRODUCTION
WASHING
THREAD CUTTING
INITIAL CHECKING AND SPOTTING
ALTERATION
REIRONING
FINAL CHECKING
PRESENTATION/FINAL IRONING
MEASUREMENT
SENT FOR PACKING
GARMENT COMES FROM PRODUCTION
PROCESS FLOW OF FINISHING

83. BASIC WORK FLOW
Washing/Dry cleaning- According to the buyer’s
demand or as per garment types. The pieces are
counted and sent for the wash or dry clean program.
Thread trimming- Pieces received from the washing
department or from the assembly line now come for
thread trimming where threads are cut off from the
seams, buttons etc. manually with the help of trimming
scissor.
Spotting- During the assembly, the garment may
acquire stains which must be removed. This is done
either in washing department or they are locally ‘spotted
off’..

84. Objectionable stains like that of chalk are spotted by
means of spotting guns containing mild solvent ( water,
benzene etc.). Harder and stubborn stains (like that of
tobacco, rust, dye, kerosene etc.) are sent to the spott-
ing room where they are cleansed under the spotting
machine. If the spots still don’t go then they are sent
for the dry cleaning
General checking- Now the garment comes for gener
al checking. Here, first the general visual appearance
is studied which includes: shape of the garments; bala
ncing of the parts, colour variations etc. Then any
seaming defects are recognized for example unmade
seams, missed stitches etc. As per requirement the
checked pieces are send for mending to assembly line
.

85. Pressing- Pressing is a shaping the garment with
pressure, with heat and moisture/steam. In case of
knits, this is important but not as needed, as in case
of woven, because knits property are: excellent
recovery, stretch ability and fit. The ironing of the
garments takes place on the steam boards with steam
ironing press.
Measurement and final checking- This is the final
check for garment measurements, appearance, labels,
trims etc. to study the final look and shape. Measurem
ents are done according to the specification sheets
and recordings are made for any variations in the mea
surement chart. This gives an overall idea about the
quality of the garment. Finally, all the garments are
counted recorded and sent to the packing tables.

86. WASHING
Garments pass through various handling
processes, which may make them dirty and
stain, thereby reducing their aesthetic appeal.
To restore this aesthetic value, they are need to
be clean through the process like washing and
dry cleaning. Garments are sent for washing by
the production department as per the buyer’s
requirement. Normally the fabrics are not asked
to go for wash by the buyer. Whether the fabric
department may internally sent it a number of
other reasons.

87. REASONS FOR WASHING
To control uneven shrinkage
To remove bowing
To lighten colour shade
To improve hand
To even out colour shade variations
To remove printing smell
To execute a dyeing program

88. TYPE OF WASHES
Normal Wash
Acid Wash
Garment Wash
Monkey Wash
Enzyme Wash
Emery Balls Wash
Stone Wash
Silicon/ Softener Wash
Sand Wash
Bleach

89. Wet Washing
Process
1. Normal wash or
Detergent wash
2. Pigment wash
3. Enzyme wash
4. Stone wash
5. Bleach wash
6. Enzyme-stone
wash
7. Bleach-stone
wash
8. Acid wash
Dry Wash Process
1. Sand blasting
2. Whisking or
wrinkling
3. Hand scrapping
4. Potassium per
magnet spray (PP
spraying)
5. Destroying

90. Enzyme Washing:
Enzyme is kind of protein that is obtain from bacteria
& fungi. The structure of Enzyme is a biological
polymer and it can be found in every cell. Generally
called as Cellulose & it works on cotton (Cellulose
fiber) only. Enzymes are living organisms which will
attack a specific molecular group.
There are mainly three kind of Cellulose being used
for the washing, Neutral, Acid and Bio polishing
Enzyme. Enzymes are very sensitive with
parameters in washing cycle i.e., pH, Temperature &
time. If any of these parameters are not up to the
mark, result will not be accurate. The reaction of
enzyme can be easily controlled, its biodegradable
products, so they Eco friendly.

91. Stone Washing
In the process of Stone washing, freshly dyed jeans
are loaded into large washing machines and tumbled
with the stones or volcanic rock to achieve a soft
hand and desirable look. Variations in compositions,
hardness, size and shape make these stone
multifunctional. The process is quite expensive and
requires high capital investment. Stone gives the
additional effect of a faded or worn look as it abrades
the surface of the jeans like sandpaper, removing
some dye particles from the surfaces of the yarn.

92. SILICON /SOFTENER WASH:
In case of silicon wash softener and used together, silicon
for surface smoothness and softener for soft of cellulose.
As a result, softness and smoothness of the garment.
BLEACHING WASH:
Bleaching wash means that bleaching chemical is used in
water while washing in a tumble washer. Strict washing
time is a requirement with such kinds of wash. Otherwise
the garment may be over bleached and the color cannot
be reversed.
ACID WASH:
Acid wash is done by using potassium and pumic stone.
At first we have to dip the stone in the potash solution then
slight dry the stone and wash in a garment washing
machine. Finally we will achieve an uneven look on
the garment.

93. DRY CLEANING.
Every garment is not needed the dry
cleaning process. Only those garments,
which have stubborn like that of oil and
rust. Mostly white or light colour
garment are dry cleaned. The solvent
for stain removal used is
Chloromethane, which is specially used
for stain removing in dry cleaning
process.

94. METHODS OF DRYING
The choice for the method of drying depends upon the
dimensional stability of the fabric
Tumble drying-refers to the drying in a machine called
Tumbler.
Drip-drying-refers to drying the garments by directly hanging
them after washing i.e. without hydro. For this kind of drying
the load is removing from the washer just before the water
begins to drain for the final spin cycle. The garments are
removing soaking wet and drip dried.
Line drying-here, the garments after washing undergo for
hydro and then hang for drying.
Flat drying-refers to drying the garment by laying it flat on a
surface. It is usually carried out for highly unstable fabric
material.

95. WASHING MACHINERY
Horizontal washing machine- This machine is being
used for washing garments and fabric rolls. Normal
wash, hard wash, enzyme wash, softener wash,
bleaching before dye. The small capacity horizontal
washing machine is used for sampling department.
Front loading washing machine- All types of wash like
Normal wash, hard wash, enzyme wash, softener wash.
Fabric lots are not washed in this machine.
Hydro- Use to remove excess water after washing. The
garments are spun in drums which rotate at high speed.
This process takes about 3min.
Tumble dryer- This machine evaporates out all the left
over water from the garments making them completely
dry. Tumbling is carried out for about half an hour.

96. PACKAGING
Packing is the last stage where the finished garments
are organized, and packed for the shipment.
The entire process from the way a garment will be
folded to the final labelling of the cartons is has to be
done by the buyer’s specifications. These instructions
are standardized for a particular type of garment and
sent to the merchandiser in form of a packing manual.
The merchandiser forwards it to the packing in-charge
along with a TOP (Top of Production) sample i.e.,
packed with the packing dimensions approved by the
buyer. This is kept as a visual reference for the
packers.

97. PACKING IS DONE IN TWO STAGES:
1.Poly Bag packing
Tacking
Folding
2.Carton packing
PACKING NORMS
Packages are sent under licensing rules for shipment. The rules are
also specified by the individual buyer and are universal for their
respective order. Some of such norms include:
All garments packed in individual poly bags. Poly bag sticker on poly
bags, which may be printed by the factory. Order must be inspected
and audited by the factory 100%. Order must be of first quality, no
repair or ungraded garments should be in license shipments.
Order must be shipped 100% complete otherwise notified.
The packed goods are now ready to be passed through.

98. Types of Apparel Packing or Packaging:
• Packing garment into poly bags
Traditionally garments are packed into poly bags
before placing them into cartons box. Garments
may be packed individually in the poly bags and
the ratio will be specified by the buyer.
1. Single piece packing – single garment is packed
into the poly bag or into a cardboard box.
2. Blister Packing: In blister packing, more than
one garments are packed into a poly bag in a size
and color ratio. Later those poly bags are packed
into a carton box.

99. Garment packing based on folding method:
• Traditionally garments are folded prior to packing. Folding
of garments are done as followings
First garments are folded flat as per specific dimension and
later packed into a poly bag.
• Garments are folded and packed into individual cardboard
box instead of packing into poly bag. Like men’s shirts are
packed in a cardboard box.
• Garments are not folded at all – full garment is packed into
a poly bag in a hanger and placed on the carton.
• Garments are not folded and not packed into an individual
poly bag. Garments are directly placed into carton boxes.
Later in retail shop garment are placed in racks using
hangers.
• Crashed fold – garments like shorts, boxers, cargo pants
crashed folded and items of different colors are packed into
a poly bag.

100. Types of Apparel Packing or Packaging:
1. One size and solid color:
In case of solid size and solid color assortment, apparel carton box will
have only one color and one size of apparel.
2. One size and assorted color:
In case of this assortment, the apparel carton box contains one size of
apparel but all colors.
3. Assorted size and only one color:
In this assortment, the apparel carton box will have all sizes but only one
color.
4. Assorted size and assorted color:
In this assortment, the apparel carton box contains all sizes and all colors
of apparel.
Carton packing may be varying according to Buyer’s requirement.
Carton pack may be:
12pcs/Carton
24pcs/Carton
36pcs/pack

101. Type of Carton for garments packaging
• DEPEND ON PAPER :
1. Khaki Carton Or Brown Carton
2. Duplex Carton
3. Box Carton
• DEPEND ON STITCHING: Gum Pasting Carton.
• DEPEND ON PLY :
1. 3 Ply Carton
2. 5 Ply Carton
3. 7 Ply Carton
• DEPEND ON LINER :
1. Both Side Liner Carton
2. Out Side Liner Carton
• DEPEND ON SIZE :
1. Master Carton
2. Inner Carton

102. Shirt collar Bands/Stripes
Stand up pack
Flat pack

103. ACCOUNTS
• keep records of all Monetary transactions and
makes payment for vendors/suppliers and
employees.

104. ADMINISTRATION
• Time keeping, personnel, custom
documentation, security

105. Garments Buying House

106. Garments Buying House is a very profitable business,
any smart people with less investment can earn
millions of Dollars. Buying house basically is a office
with some testing machine and equipment's, as it is not
directly execute the order. So every Buying house needs
some energetic skilled merchandiser to maintain the
placement of order and execution, some quality
controller (QC) to maintain the products quality some
other officials to do official works. Garment buying
house means, the buying house procures garments
from the manufacturers and exports to other countries
is called garment buying house.

107. Basically Garment Buying houses direct communicate with
buyers of other countries who want to buy garment products.
Then they contact with garment factories who can make
those kinds of products and fulfill buyer’s demand. Like this
they create a contract between these two parties. Sometime
buying houses make their own sample section, so that they
do not have to go to factories for collecting sample and they
can attract customers faster and easily. On the other hand,
they create a show room of their product to attract the buyer.
This house maintain the merchandiser to follow up the
product processing line perfectly and also build a quality
assurance team for checking the actual quality of the product.
Many people say that basic elements of garment buying
house are one decorated room, chair, table, PC/Laptop,
internet connection, telephone and the most important is
skilled merchandiser.

108. FLOW CHART OF BUYING HOUSE:
CONTACT WITH THE BUYER
↓
COMMUNICATE
↓
MEETING
↓
SEND L/C TO THE GARMENT
↓
DEVELOP THE PRODUCT
↓
INSPECTION BY BUYING HOUSE
↓
COMPLETE WORKING PAPER OR DOCUMENT FOR SHIPPING
↓
SEND ONE COPY TO THE BANK ↔ ATTACH ONE COPY WITH THE PRODUCT
↓
SHIPMENT

109. Key Responsibility of a Buying Merchandiser:
As you know above maximum job for a buying merchandiser is
abstract. Factory merchandiser performs the entire task for
production where as buying merchandiser is his shadow to follow the
job. Buying Merchandiser keeps close monitoring on work progress
done by factory merchandiser like:
• lab dip
• fabric booking
• sampling the entire day to day merchandising job.
• Keep aware the entire production unit to meet dead line.
• Keep communication with both factory & customer.
• Get the current issues from both factory & customer & try to find a
good solution.
• He is the only one that keeps & cannot miss any of the submissions
& approval.

110. • Works on TNA.
• Production update & forecast customer if require additional time
for delivery.
• Product Development is very important for a buying merchandiser
to get good new customer.
• Sourcing for production unit, fabric, trims & also for new product.
• Works on price to manage both factory & customer.
• Business & profit assessment.
• Prepare QC file.
• Ensure Quality by close monitoring with quality team.
• If any quality issue arises & if not possible to manage, let the
buyer know the practical situation & try to get the solution.
• Keep contact to commercial & shipping department for shipment
& settle payment issue.
• Keep contact to shipping agent if needed special permission for
goods delivery.

111. WORKING PROCEDURE OF A BUYING HOUSE:
Every organization has its own working procedure. It’s
varies from organization to organization. Buying house work
flow is given below;
• First of all marketing merchandiser contact with a buyer
and collect an order by showing the garments they made
before or directly ask which type of garments buyer
need.
• Then he /she find out the suitable factory for that
specified garments. The factory must be audited.
• Do consumption & costing and bargaining with factory
for cost for the specific product. Finalize cost and send it
to buyer.

112. • Then development merchandiser develops the product send 1st
sample for any correction.
• Usually buyer makes some modification on 1st sample, so 2nd
sample is submitted according to 1st sample comments.
• Then fit sample is made and QC (Quality Controller) check is it
follows the approved 2nd sample .
• Then the gold seal sample is sent for approval which is also
known as buying sample. And if the gold seal sample approved
then the order is confirmed.
• Then production merchandiser starts his work.
• Production merchandiser basically follows up the total
production stage. After getting approval of red seal sample he
has to book the fabric and trims.
• He has to Follow up the fabric and trim arrived in factory in time
or not. After all approval he does production planning meeting
with factory.

113. • QC has to follow the production is running with approved item,
fabric and accessories or not. He helps production merchandiser
by giving all production information.
• QC’s main task is to check all samples sent to buyer, and help
factory people if there any confusion with production.
• Fabric, trims accessories are checked in lab in buying house. It‘s
called in-house test like Bulk fabric hanger, shade variation in
shade continuity, lab dip, fabric quality etc.
• Different types of inspection also done in lab before ex-
factory/shipment.
• After doing ex-factory showing packing list and some commercial
activities buying house receive their commission.
• task is starts with meeting with buyer and ends with collecting
commission from buyer.

114. BUYER INSPECTION SYSTEM IN GARMENTS SECTOR
Buyer Inspection System in garments sector is mainly divided into
three.
Initial Inspection:
It’s very important for Quality Control Department to carry out Initial
Inspection after first bulk cutting of 200 to 500 pieces covering all sizes
& colors. It is time to compare with approved sample & ensure to be
conformance of requirements. It’s very important to get a smooth
production as it’s the time to find out & solve the problems which may
cause during production. A meeting can be held after this Inspection
named First Bulk Review Meeting. See image of First Bulk Review
Meeting below.

116. In-line
Inspection:
This Inspection
is done during
production. It
can be
performed
several times
depending
quantity of
ordered style /
article. See
image below for
Inline
Inspection
Sheet.

117. Final Inspection:
This inspection depends on AQL which means Acceptable Quality
Level. During Inspection, defective goods are categorized as
Critical, Major or Minor according to their defects. One critical
defect can make us failure in result of Inspection.
Critical Defect is one that relates to a safety or legal problem, or a
delivery error which prevents distribution of the product to the
Buyer.
Major defect is one that significantly affects the usefulness or
attractiveness of the product, because it always results in a
customer return and / or an immediate or later complaint.
Minor defect is one which may not always be noticed by the user,
and which doesn’t really affect the usefulness or attractiveness of
the product.

119. Few buyers don’t follow any AQL for their Inspection System.
Instead of AQL, they follow percentage of defective goods in the
Order. If any defect of product exceeds 3%, then the goods will be
rechecked for those defects. uring these inspections, various types of
reports & records are seen & followed such as:
• Quality Risk Assessment Report
• Fabric Visual Inspection Report (4 Point System),
• Fabric Wash Test Report
• Fabrics GSM
• Spirality & Shrinkage Test Report
• Fabric Relaxation Report,
• Lay & Marker Check Report,
• Cut Panel Measurement Report, Process Control Report (7 pieces)
• Q. C. Pass Production Report
• Final Inspection Report by factory QC

120. • Inline Inspection Report by factory QC
• Pre-final Inspection Report
• Pre-production Meeting Record
• Loose Metal Control Register
• Pull Test Record
• Nickel & Ferrous Test Record
• Internal Quality Audit
• Corrective & Preventive Plan
• Monthly Worker Training Program
• Production Reporting & planning
• Shipping Documentation etc.