This document discusses different types of seams used in garment construction. It begins by defining a seam as a method of joining two pieces of fabric together. There are several types of seams that are used for different purposes, including plain seams, double top seams, French seams, flat fell seams, welt seams, lapped seams, and piped and slot seams. Each seam type is described in terms of how it is constructed and what types of fabrics it is best suited for. Seams are an essential element of garment construction as they join fabric pieces together to create finished garments and accessories.

1. S. MAGDOOM SABEEMA
ASSISTANT PROFESSOR
DEPARTMENT OF COSTUME
DESIGN AND FASHION

2.  A seam is a method of binding two or more pieces of
fabric together.
 Seams are an essential element to every garment and
fabric accessory, as they join the material together to
create the item
 Seams are used for hems and to finish necklines and
edges.
 Seams are used to gather fabric and create pleats.

3.  The type of seam to be used on a garment will depend on
various factors.
 There are several different types of seams, they are
 Plain seam
 Single top seam
 Double top seam
 French seam
 Flat fell seam
 Welt seam
 Lapped seam
 Piped and Slot seam

4.  A plain seam defined as any seam that attaches two pieces of
fabric together with the wrong sides facing.
 The wrong side is the side of the fabric that doesn’t face
outward when the garment is completed.
 The stitch length or type of stitch doesn’t matter , as long as it
is one stitch line and it attaches two pieces of fabric.

6.  Stitch a plain seam, press the seam edges to one side and work
a row of machining close to the seam line on the right side
catching the seam allowances.

7.  In this double top seam, two extra lines of stitching is done on
the right side of the garment, one on either side of the seam
line, after the seam allowances are pressed open.

8.  A french seam should only be used on delicate, light weight
fabric.
 It is a neat and durable finish as the raw edges are completely
enclosed.
 The two pieces of materials to be joined are placed together
with wrong sides facing.
 Work a row of stitching 1/8 inch outside the seam line towards
the raw edges.
 After stitching, trim the seam allowances to less than 1/8 inch.
 Press the seam and turn the work so that the right sides are
together.

9.  Crease the first row of stitching so that it is directly on the
edge.
 Pin or tack and stitch along the seam line about 1/8 inch from
the fold.
 In this seam, care should be taken to see that there are no
ravels visible on the right side.

11.  A flat fell seam is an extremely strong closed seam that is
often used for items like jeans.
 It covers the fabric’s raw edges well and keeps the seam flat.

13.  A welt seam is also frequently used for jeans, as it is very
strong, but it is less bulky than the flat felled seam because it
is not enclosed and the raw edge of the fabric is visible.

14.  A lapped seam is typically used with fabrics that don’t fray,
such as leather and fleece.
 For a lapped seam, the right side of the fabric faces up and the
pieces overlap, instead of right or wrong sides together.

15.  Slot seam is a variation of lapped seam and is often used down
the centre front or centre back of skirts, coats and dresses
primarily inverted pleat.
 Cut a strip of fabric of the same length as the seam itself and
having a width more than twicw thw width of the seam
allowance.
 Work a row of tacking down the centre of the strip.
 Take the two parts of the garment to be seamed and fold their
seam allowances to the wrong side.

16.  Now with right side up, place the folded edges over the strip
so that the folds fall exactly on the tacked line of the strip.
 Tack in position close to the folded edges and top stitch
carefully along each side of the seam about ¼ inch from the
centre line. Finally remove all the tacking.
 The backing strip may be of the same fabric as the garment or
a contrasting coloured fabric and may be cut on the bias.