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AUTOMOTIVE
1. 6. Adjustable Wrench
- Has moveable jaw that you adjust to fit nuts
and bolt heads of various sizes.
2. Tighten the jaws against the flats of
the nuts or bolt before applying a
turning force. Adjustable wrenches
are normally used only when
applying relatively light torque.
They are not always as strong as
fixed jaw wrenches and may be
damaged if excessive torque is
apply.
3. 7. Socket Wrench
- Most widely used tools in the shop. They
are like box wrenches except that the head of
socket head or socket is detachable from the
handle.
4. Sockets
1. 12 point socket – allows you to
turn a bolt or nut in tight spots
2. 6 point socket – if a bolt head or
nut has rounded corners or
excessive resistance to turning.
5. 3. 8 point socket – for turning square
heads.
4. Deep socket – reach nuts on bolts
or studs that are too long for the
standard socket to reach.
5. Spark-plug socket – 6 point deep
socket with a rubber insert.
6.
7. Handles
1. Ratchet handle - has a mechanism
that permits free motion in one direction
but lock up in the other
8. 8. Torque Wrench
-Basically a special handle for a socket.
An indicator on the torque wrench
measures the torque or twisting force.
9.
10. 9. Torque-angle Gauge
A. Torque-to-yield bolts – an initial
torque with a torque wrench
B. Torque-angle gauge – accurately
measures the turning angle in
degrees.
11. Removing Frozen Nuts and
Bolts
Sometimes a nut or bolt is frozen.
It will not break loose with
normal turning force. Try
applying penetrating oil around
the threads. Give the penetrating
oil time to soak in.
12. Then try loosening the
fastener again. Tapping lightly
on the nut or bolt with a
hammer may help. Use a
chisel or a nut cracker or
splitter to split off a frozen nut
15. Removing Broken Bolts and
Studs
When a threaded fastener breaks,
approach the problem logically. You
must remove the broken part. Be
patient, and be careful not to create
an even bigger problem.
16. Removal methods to try depend on where
to break occurred on the fastener.
1. BREAK ABOVE SURFACES.
When the break is above the surface, you
may be able to file flats on two sides.
Then use a wrench to back out the
broken part. Sometimes you can cut a
slot in the bolt. Then remove it with a
screwdriver. Another way is to attach
locking pliers to the threads. Then turn
the bolt out.
17. 2. BREAK CLOSE TO SURFACE
If the break is close to the surface,
try removing the bolt with a center
punch. Place the point of the punch
on the bolt, but off center. Then tap
the punch lightly with a hammer. By
moving he punch and tapping it, the
bolt may back out.
18. 3. BREAK BELOW SURFACE
Sometimes the break is near or below
the surface. Try removing the broken
bolt with a bolt or stud extractor.
Center-punch the broken bolt and then
drill it. Use a drill that makes a hole
almost as large as the inside diameter of
the threads. Then use an extractor of the
proper size to remove the bolt.
19. Pullers
-Remove parts assembled with an
interference fit.
Three Basic Types of Pullers
1. Pressure screw
2. Slide hammer
3. Combination
22. 2. Hacksaw
- Is basically an adjustable metal frame
that holds a steel saw blade. The blade
is replaceable and has from 14-32 teeth
per inch.
23. 3. Files
- Used for cutting and shaping metal.
a. Rough or course-cut file – when the
cuts are far apart
b. Smooth or dead-smooth file – when the
cuts are close together
24. c. Single cut File – has a series of sharp
blades
d. Double cut file – has a second series cut
at an angle to the first
25. 4. Punches
- Used to knock out rivets and pins.
- Align parts for assembly
27. 6. Taps and Dies
a. Taps – cut inside threads
b. Dies – cuts outside threads on rods
c. Diestock – holds the die
d. Chamfer or bevel – the rod end so the
die starts easily.
28. TUBE CUTTING, BENDING, AND
FLARING
a. Fuel lines – carries gasoline from the
fuel tank to the engine compartment.
b. Vapor return lines – sends fuel vapor
from the carburetor back to the fuel
tank.
c. Brake lines – and flexible hose carry
brake fluid from the master cylinder to
the brakes at the wheel.
29.
30. POWER TOOLS
- Tools powered by electricity,
compressed air, or hydraulic pressure
SHOP EQUIPMENT
- The shop furnishes some equipment the
technician uses in diagnosis and repair.
32. TYPES OF POWER TOOLS
1. Electric tools – have electric
motors
2. Pneumatic tools – operate by air
3. Hydraulic tools – work because
of pressure on a liquid
33. 1. Electric Tools
a. Electric Drill – has an electric
motor that drives a chuck.
34. CAUTIONS
1. Drill must be properly grounded
through the third blade or ground
terminal in the plug.
2. Do not drag the drill by its cord
3. Keep your hands and clothes
away from the rotating chuck
and drill bit
35. 4. Keep a firm grip on the drill
5. If the bit jams, do not try to
break it free by turning the
drill on and off
6. When you finish with the
drill, disconnect it.
36. b. Drill Press
- Vertical drilling machine powered
by an electric motor
37. c. Grinding Wheel
- Mounts on a bench or pedestal
- Use to sharpen a chisel.
38. CAUTIONS
1. Do not hammer on the grinding
wheel or apply excessive force
against it.
2. Do not grind on the side of the
wheel.
39. 3. Do not adjust the tool rest
while the grinder is running.
4. Watch for sparks.
5. Do not touch the rotating
wheel
6. Adjust the light to see clearly
what you are doing.
40. 7. When grinding a tool, do not
overheat it
8. Always wear eye protection even
if the has an eye shield.
9. Always make sure the safety
guards and shields are in place
and correctly adjusted.
42. e. Cordless Tools
- These include the
cordless soldering gun,
drill and screw driver.
43. 2. Pneumatic Tools
a. Air Compressor and Air-Supply
System
• Air compressor – produces
compressed air
• Air supply system – distributes the
compressed air throughout the shop
44. b. Air tools
– give either rotary or
reciprocating motion.
45. CAUTONS ON OPERATING AIR
TOOLS
1. Air nozzles or blowguns
should have a diffuser.
2. Never use the blowgun to
blow dust off your clothes
and never point it at anyone.
46. 3. Never look into the air
outlet of a pneumonic tool.
4. Never operate an air
hammer without a bit
installed.
5. Never blow-clean brake or
clutch parts.
47. c. Air Hammer
- Produces a reciprocating
motion to drive a
hammering or cutting tool
48. d. Air Impact Wrench
- Produces a high-torque rotary
motion. These pounding or impact
force loosens or tightens nuts and
bolts.
49. CAUTIONS
1. Always use impact sockets of
the correct size. Hand tool
sockets will “pound out” and
may break.
2. Hold the impact wrench so the
socket fits squarely to the nut or
bolt.
50. 3. Once a nut or bolt tightens, never
impact it beyond to additional
one-half turn.
4. Use a torque wrench or torque-
angle gauge for final tightening.
5. Soak rusty nuts or bolts with
penetrating oil before impacting
them.
51. e. Air Drill
- Has an air motor. These makes the
tool lighter than an electric drill.
52. f. Air Ratchet
- Similar to hand-tool ratchets, but
operate faster. Apply less force
than an impact wrench.
53. CARE OF AIR TOOLS
• Never drag around air tool by its
hose.
• Never drop an air tool on the
floor or otherwise abuse a tool.
• When not in use, disconnect the
air tool from the air hose.
54. • Put the tool away in its storage
place.
• Lubricate the air tool everyday
before using it.
• Apply three or four squirts of air
tool into the nipple closest to the
tool.
55. • Then connect the air hose
to the nipple and operate
the tool. This lubricates the
internal parts. It also
flushes out dirt and
moisture.
57. Parts Cleaners
Parts cleaning is so important that
many technicians will not let
anyone else clean the parts they
are working on. It is during the
cleaning process that clues to the
cause of the trouble often show
up
58. Solvent Tank
Remove old gasket and thick deposits on
parts with a putty knife, scraper and wire
brush.
The final cleaning by washing and degreasing
the part in the solvent tank.
59. Spray Washers
Engine blocks and transmission
cases are too large to clean in a
solvent tank. These and other large
parts may be cleaned in a spray
washer
