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fullness in garment ( tuck dart pleats etc)

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Sewing. to make full, as by gathering or pleating. to bring (the cloth) on one side of a seam to a little greater fullness than on the other by gathering or tucking very slightly.

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fullness in garment ( tuck dart pleats etc)

  1. 1. Fullness in garments RAGHUNATHAN.V 16BS10
  2. 2. darts Darts are used to shape fabric to fit the body. They provide fullness to body curves. Sometimes darts are used decoratively to provide a design line and are not used for fitting. It is important to be accurate when fitting, marking, stitching, and pressing darts.
  3. 3. Types of drats • Straight • Curved outwards • Curved inwards • Neckline • Double pointed
  4. 4. Pointed dart Double pointed dart Neckline dart
  5. 5. General rules  Stitch darts from wide to narrow  Threads at the point of the dart must be secured. The method of fastening (backstitch, tying a knot, lockstitch, or working threads back into the stitching) depends on your fabric. • Darts are usually straight and merge into the fabric (slide down the hill, not jump off the cliff).
  6. 6. Sewing • Fold dart in the center on the fold line. Pin baste or hand baste. Usually darts are stitched from the wide end to the narrow end. On a double-pointed dart, start your stitching at the widest part and stitch to each end. Be sure that the last few stitches are on the very edge of the fold of the dart.
  7. 7. tuck A tuck is a stitched fold of fabric. Tucks are primarily used for decoration. However, released tucks may be used for shaping fabric to the body
  8. 8. Types of tuck  Pin Tucks – the small ones (right on the fold of the fabric).
  9. 9.  Spaced Tucks – have spaces between the stitching. .
  10. 10.  Shell Tucks – stitched by hand or by using the sewing machine to blindstitch creating an even design.
  11. 11. • corded Tucks – cords are placed in wrong side and tucks are produced
  12. 12. • Released Tucks – not stitched the entire length of the area. They may be on the right side or wrong side of the fabric.
  13. 13. Cross tuck
  14. 14. standard A well-constructed tuck will: • Provide relaxed but defined fullness. • Be neat in appearance.
  15. 15. How to make a tuck  Mark tucks with the appropriate method for your fabric.  • Remove the pattern. Fold on the designated pattern marks and stitch.
  16. 16. pleat Pleats can also be used to control fullness in a garment design. They may be pressed or unpressed, soft or crisp. When selecting fabric for a pleated design, be sure it has good drape and is resilient. Care should be taken when cutting and marking to see that pleats are on grain to ensure proper hang of the garment
  17. 17. standard Well-constructed pleats will: • Have a smooth, neat appearance on the outside/inside of a garment. • Provide ease for comfort and/or design silhouette.
  18. 18. Types of pleat  Knife or Side – are flat and are turned to one side, usually right to left on the outside of garment. They are used in kilts, skirts, and on shoulders of bodices.  Box – are two straight pleats with folds turned away from each other. They are used in skirts, dresses, shirts, and jackets.
  19. 19. Types of pleat  Inverted – are two straight pleats with folds turned toward each other. They meet in the center and are used primarily in skirts.  Accordion – are narrow pleats at the top and radiate to a wider width at the bottom. They are not stitched down and are used in skirts, sleeve designs, and lingerie
  20. 20. Knife pleat Box pleat Inverted pleat Accordion
  21. 21. Gathers Gathers are visible fullness that is a part of the garment design. They may be functional or decorative. Gathers are used on sleeve caps, sleeve cuffs, waistlines, yokes, and ruffles.
  22. 22. standard Well-constructed gathers will:  Be evenly distributed.  Neatly stitched to the adjourning piece.  Be controlled by one or more lines of stitching
  23. 23. Types of gathers • Gathering by hand • Gathering by machine • Gathering by using elastic
  24. 24. How to Gather • Select the desired method of controlling fullness. • Match pattern markings and seamlines of garment pieces by pinning along stitching line on the side of the fullness. • Between each set of markings, pull on the bobbin thread or cord for fullness. • Distribute evenly using fingernail or pin. Secure long threads by wrapping them around a pin. When sufficient gathering has been achieved, add additional pins (right at the stitching line), as needed
  25. 25. How to Gather • Machine baste on the seamline (gathered side up), removing pins as you come to them. • Check to see that the gathers are evenly distributed as you sew. • Stitch on top of machine basting with a permanent stitch.
  26. 26. shirring Shirring is created by rows of stitching that is gathered. On very lightweight fabrics, it is sometimes called decorative gathering. Shirring is used primarily on bodices and cuffs of garments. When stitching, be sure the rows of machine stitching are even and parallel. The distance between the rows of stitching is your choice.
  27. 27. Types of shrring • cord elastic shirring • waffle shirring • gathered shirring
  28. 28. Cord elastic shirring is done with a zig zag stitch and strong cord elastic in two rows on the wrong side of the fabric. You usually see this done on a sleeve. Waffle shirring is a subset of elastic thread shirring and is created by shirring in one direction, then shirring again at a right angle to the previous shirring to create a sort of checkerboard effect. Finally, gathered shirring is sewn with regular sewing thread in the needle and bobbin; this type of permanent shirring doesn't stretch and is essentially a sub-set of gathering
  29. 29. FRILLS OR RUFFLES • A ruffle is a strip of fabric cut or handled in such a ways as to produce fullness. These are used for the purpose of adding decoration to a garment. Sometimes they are used at the hems of skirts and dresses to add length. To make frills allow at least one and a half times the length of the piece to which the frill will be attached. The width of the frill is usually anything from one inch to 3 inches. The longer side should be cut along the lengthwise grain of the material. The gathered edge of the frill can be concealed in a seam, facing, binding or wide band
  30. 30. godet • These are wedge shaped pieces which are usually set into a skirt so that the wide side of the wedge becomes a part of the hem of the skirt • The godet may be set into a seam of the skirt, or the skirt may be slashed so that the slashed edges form the seams that join into the godet • Panels are cut and godets are stitched between panels
  31. 31. THANK YOU