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THE INTERVIEW: LEWIS HAMILTON




          o you thought the life of a Formula 1 driver was all
          glamour, eh? Whenever I see Lewis Hamilton in the
          newspapers, he’s stepping furtively from a limo (or as
          furtively as it’s possible to do from a luxury vehicle while
dressed head-to-foot in Hugo Boss’s finest), hand and arm raised
in a vain attempt to shield his head from the intruding lenses and
seething flashbulbs of the paparazzi. The accompanying prose
is often curiously anachronistic: pious and censorious, but
breathlessly delivered and with malign glee, like the village
busybody in a Victorian novel. It speaks of glittering parties,
cocktails and canapes, red carpets and velvet ropes – and, of
course, of romantic liaisons.
   Today, though, I’m meeting Lewis in the more down-to-earth
setting of a Winnebago parked at Dunsfold Aerodrome in Surrey,
under slate grey skies and perma-drizzle, where he’s filming an
appearance on the BBC’s Top Gear programme. In one corner
Lewis’s father, Anthony, is chatting to rugby legend Lawrence
Dallaglio. In another, LAT photographer (and regular F1 Racing
contributor) Glenn Dunbar is studying a TV news broadcast, the
present subject of which is a camel that’s been taught to showjump.
Lewis is enthusing to Clare Robertson, his PR minder from
McLaren, about one of the speakers at the Prince’s Trust Future
Investment dinner he attended the night before.
   “He [Mark Johnson, author of a book called Wasted] was just a
normal bloke off the street,” he says. “But he’s been through hell.
I’ve never heard as bad a story as that. Women in the audience
were almost in tears. He was inspirational: he’d been in trouble
since he was a kid, into robbing to fund his drugs habit, living on
the street – he didn’t even have any shoes – until the Princes’ Trust
reached out to him. I was blown away by his story – everyone was.”
   Hamilton Snr and Dallaglio excuse themselves with a cheery
farewell as Lewis’s lunch is brought in: a plate of chicken curry and
rice wrapped in tinfoil, with a side dish on which are perched a
couple of bite-sized onion bhajis. So much for glamour…
   “I’ve been flat-out since the last race, with appearances and
promotional events,” he says, lifting away the foil one corner
at a time and sniffing the plate’s contents suspiciously before
rearranging its contents with a fork. “I had a fitness week with the
team – apart from that there hasn’t been a lot of time for training,
or for relaxing, either. But that goes with the job, doesn’t it?”
   From outside I hear a muted squeal as four skinny, high-profile
tyres yield their tenuous purchase on the slippery runway. In my
peripheral vision, through the window, I see a pale blue Suzuki
Liana whoosh past, engine straining. The driver botches the
upchange, and for a second the engine yelps at its rev limiter –
prompting Lewis to raise an eyebrow and glance out the window –
                          before the higher ratio engages with a crunch.
                          (Behind the wheel is the singer James Blunt,
Hamilton’s assault who, for the benefit of our overseas readers,
on F1 has been            I should explain is taking part in the
like a punch to           programme’s regular ‘Star in a Reasonably
the solar plexus          Priced Car’ challenge, in which studio guests
of all other drivers must set the best time they can in the long-
                          suffering Suzuki.) Soon it will be Lewis’s
                          turn, and I hear it took several months of


                                         January 2008 F1 Racing 31
Design Council                Issue 4
Magazine                      Summer 2008




How a dashboard can
drive down emissions
Or why knowledge equals less power, as a Dott 07 project
shows that allowing householders to be energy-aware
could equate to taking a quarter of all cars off UK roads

Article by Crispin Andrews

Through the roof: our homes   Climate change may be the hot-button issue of the
emit twice as much CO2 per
year as the average car       21st century, but, for many people, the idea of
                              being ‘low carb’ is still more likely to conjure up
                              thoughts of the Atkins diet than a meaningful,
                              sustained effort to reduce energy usage. And yet
                              rethinking the basics of how we approach domestic
                              energy usage has the potential to make a huge
                              difference to the amount of carbon we produce. In
                              fact, it could eclipse the efforts made by the
                              automobile industry or the recycling lobby at
                              a stroke – and for a fraction of the cost.
                                   Housing accounts for around 30% of the UK’s
                              total CO2 emissions, with every household in the
                              UK producing around six tonnes of CO2 each year –
                              twice as much as the average car. New eco-builds
                              that can harness solar, wind or wave power are one
                              way forward, but what about existing housing
                              stock? Short of replacing entire central heating
                              systems and installing cavity wall and loft insulation
                              in every home, what can be done about reducing
                              the carbon emissions of the average household?
                                   Design consultancy live|work believes it has a
                              potentially revelatory solution. Designs of the time
                              (Dott 07), a year-long programme run throughout
                              the north east of England and jointly funded by the
                              Design Council and One North East, explores how
                              design can make a positive difference to lives.
                              Working on the Dott project dubbed Low Carb
                              Lane in Ashington, Northumberland, the live|work
                              team, led by Ben Reason and Alex Webb Allen,
                              designed a product they believe could reduce
                              overall CO2 emissions by up to 15%, simply by
                              showing householders how much energy they use.
Design Council                Issue 4                                                                                   22/23
                            Magazine                      Spring 2008



                            The future of fashion –
                            nanotechnology, shirts that
                            hug and jackets set to stun                                                            London College of Fashion
                                                                                                                   There are two trends in the
                                                                                                                   world today. One is towards
                                                                                                                   chaos and disorder, for
                             Smart clothing has the potential to                                                   example the threat of global


                             revolutionise an industry, says Olivia                                                Mikkael Persson
                                                                                                                   Uptat. Sectet, vel esed
                                                                                                                   etumsan estion ex erostrud
                             Gordon, but will top designers wear it?                                               Avbove, pleated skirt with
                                                                                                                   electroluminescent Avbove,
                                                                                                                   pleated skirt with electrolum.




Imagine your own personal fabrication machine.            on-demand, at a verbal signal from the wearer, by
On waking, you programme in designs for a self-           brushing the fabric or by changing one’s mood.
cooling t-shirt in a colour and texture of your choice,   Instead of buying three skirts, we might buy just
a Chanel jacket with inbuilt computer, Chloé jeans        one that changes colour, size and shape at our whim.
that will remould to your exact shape after a big             But how does an industry built on disposability
lunch, and Jimmy Choo shoes with GPS tracking.            survive such a revolution? Francesca Rosella,
By the time you’re out of the shower, the clothes         creative director of Shoreditch-based smart-fashion
have been fabricated and are waiting in a neat pile.      design company CuteCircuit, has said: “One of my
    This fantasy could be reality by the end of the       obsessions is to see garments coming out three
21st century. 3D fabrication machines already in          dimensionally from a machine. The fashion
development would use nanotechnology to build             industry is really scared that users could take over.
objects atom by atom. Merely shopping for outfits          But there is a business model – you send people
will be rendered so ten minutes ago as a fabrication      your designs and they just print them out at home.”
machine is installed in every home.                           Rosella believes that far from stifling fashion,
    Smart clothing – intelligent garments that            smart clothes will be in tune with the rising global
actually work for us in some way – is not new.            trend against over-consumption, and that a growing
From the invention of the waterproof Mackintosh
in the 1820s to stretchy Lycra in the late 1950s,         ‘The fashion industry is really
successive new technologies have gradually
become taken for granted by fashion designers. In          scared that users might take over,
the last 20 years, we’ve come from Hypercolor t-           but there is a business model’
shirts – which changed colour with heat but rarely
survived a hot washing machine cycle – in the late        number of people would rather spend more on a
1980s, to Marks & Spencer’s 2007 iPod Suit with a         piece of intelligent clothing that has been lovingly
control centre in the lapel. Today, a huge range of       made, locally, by a reputable company, than get
technology is used – although electrical currents or      environmentally unsound bargains.
nanotechnology are typically incorporated into                But we’re nowhere near smart clothes appearing
textiles with metallic yarns, sewn like any others.       routinely on catwalks, let alone at TopShop. Sandy
    Cornell University researchers have designed          Black, professor of fashion and textile design and
self-cleaning garments that protect from colds, flu        technology at the London College of Fashion,
and air pollution (the fabric is impregnated with         stresses that, currently, “the driving force which
tiny antibacterial metallic particles); a US Navy-        pays for the technology is military or medical. At the
financed shirt monitors heart rate and body                sports and wellbeing end, things are beginning to
temperature; C.A.T.S.eye solar-powered trackable          happen, but they’re not fashion. They’re clothing.”
clothing means the wearer will never be lost; the             As the pace of scientific discovery accelerates,
No-Contact jacket sends 80,000 volts into assailants.     fashion designers need to be true futurologists – and
But what’s the next step? And how radically will the      inventors with a firm grasp of the latest technological
clothes of the future change the way we dress?            possibilities when it comes to materials.
    With smart-clothing, trends will be dictated not          No matter how effective the technology,
by fashionistas, but by wearers controlling the way       the design has to be simple, next-to-invisible,
their clothes look and feel. Clothes will transmute       non-gimmicky and function perfectly for fashion
Design Council   Issue 4                                                                                                               66/67
Magazine         Summer 2008

Case study 3                                                                           passport-issuing software was fine-tuned to
                                                                                       make it more productive and a new computerised
                                                                                       processing system installed. To cut waiting times,

The Passport Agency uses                                                               opening hours and appointment availability were
                                                                                       increased; appointment-only counter services,
                                                                                       premium and fast-track services were introduced
service design to stop                                                                 to reduce queues. The agency then beefed up its
                                                                                       project management systems and private-sector

infuriating customers
                                                                                       partnerships and strengthened its risk management
                                                                                       and contingency planning.

                                                                                       Soon, the service was meeting its target of
                               In 1999, at least 500 holidays were cancelled due       answering 90% of calls within 20 seconds.
                               to a crisis at the UK Passport Agency. Applications     Application waiting times fell from a 51-day nadir
                               were taking up to 50 days to process – they were        in 1999 to a six-day average across 2003-2006.
                               supposed to take only five. Panic-stricken travellers    Of 4.2 million calls in 2006-7, fewer than 1%
                               camped outside passport offices – the agency             were met with an engaged tone.
                               spent £16,000 on providing umbrellas for rain-
                               lashed applicants – while around 3.5 million calls      The agency’s next big task is to ensure it tackles
                               went unanswered. The agency’s new computer              identity fraud, that most 21st-century of crimes.
                               system had produced 400,000 fewer passports             With 47 million British passports in circulation, the
                               than expected in its first nine months of operation,     UK is the world’s second biggest passport issuer
                               generating a backlog that ultimately cost the           behind the US. Today, 80% of Brits hold one –
                               government £12.6m, including £161,000 in                whereas fewer than one in four people had one in
                               compensation to irate would-be holidaymakers.           1984. In 2006, the Passport Agency merged with
                                                                                       the Home Office identity cards programme as the
                               Yet in 2006, for the third year running, the agency     Identity and Passport Service (IPS). New measures
                               ranked first for overall customer satisfaction in the    have led to fee increases, concerns about civil
                               CompariSat surveys of public and private sector         liberties and, in some cases, longer waiting periods.
                               organisations, with a 97% approval rate. How did        With the introduction of biometric ‘ePassports’,
                               it achieve such a remarkable turnaround? By             with a secure chip that stores a scan of the holder’s
                               prioritising customer relations and thinking            photo, fees have risen by almost a third – to £66.
                               hard about service design.
                                                                                       The next stage will be a passport holding
                               “There was a big focus on systems redesign, but         fingerprints ,while all applicants’ details, including
                               more importantly on restoring public confidence,”        eye or facial scans, are now being stored on
                               says Bernard Herdan, who took over as chief             government databases. There are massive
                               executive after the crisis. The first stage was          challenges ahead, but the service will be much
                               understanding what went wrong. Crucially, the           better prepared for the worst-case scenario in future.
                               agency had underestimated the impact of the new
                               computer system on productivity – for many staff it
                               had meant a transition from paper to screen.

                               Demand for passports was high, partly due to the        A brief history of the British passport
                               new requirement for children to have their own          1414 First ‘safe documents’ referenced in parliament
                               passports. Once the backlog began, the in-house
                               phone service couldn’t handle the volume of calls.      1641 Date of oldest surviving passport, signed by
                                                                                            King Charles 1
                               As people panicked, the crisis escalated. Britons
                               with up to six months left on their passport joined     1858 Standard, single-page documents issued solely
                               the queue. “We didn’t have proper systems in place           to British nationals
                               to communicate with our customers,” says Herdan.        1914 Passports become a single sheet folded into
                                                                                            eight with a cardboard cover
                               After consulting with customers, and studying best
                                                                                       1920 Passport Service develops and introduces
                               practice in Australia – generally recognised to have         ‘Old Blue’, a 32-page passport with firm cover
                               the best passport service in the world – the Passport
                               Agency published a recovery plan.                       1988 Burgundy-coloured, machine-readable
                                                                                            passports issued, following a European
                                                                                            Community-approved format
                               To gain some immediate respite, calls were
                               outsourced to a 24-hour centre and a user-friendly      2006 Biometric ‘ePassports’, with a secure chip
                               website and system for handling email enquiries              containing a scan of the holder’s photograph
                               was set up. Addressing the crux of the problem, the          and signature, are introduced
NEW YEAR ★ NEW GEAR




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Digital watches        GEAR



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                                                              al
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                                                    et
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                                        –   it’s
                                    hes
                                watc
                            ned
                        shio
                     -fa
                  old
             ke
           ma
       nds
     ha
Many




                                                                                 Pictures Matthew Beedle
“You’re a
              good night
     in one
           man,
Crowe. I think I’m
     going to like you”
         That’s what the late, great
  Richard Harris said when he first met
     Russell Crowe. But what’s Crowe really like?
Best ask someone who’s been his friend for
     18 years. In this Sony Magazine exclusive,
  Editor-at-Large Martyn Palmer takes
                  us out on the road in LA and
     London with the Oscar-winning actor
                   PORTRAIT BY THEO KINGMA/REX FEATURES


                                                          SONYMAGAZINE   43
Armed only with a laptop, a phone and
               an occasional cryptic message to guide
               them, two men embark on a mission –
               it’s the Sony Magazine Challenge…
               Story by Ben Marshall Photos by Grant Fleming




50   SONYMAGAZINE                                              SONYMAGAZINE   51
electric light
    orchestra
            When it comes to
                fashion shoots
         involving neon lights
          and groovy clothes,
           you’re always best
          advised to wheel in
           a couple of good-
            looking pop stars.
        Enter Mima and Jim,
          otherwise known as
          electro art-pop duo
            Kish Mauve. Nice




                         JIM&
                         MIMAwearing Peace
                        and Love T-shirts by
                       Katharine E Hamnett
Who is this
                    glamorous
                    young
                    woman,
                    whose first
                    album was
                    the UK’s
                    fastest-selling
                    debut ever?
                    Story by
                    Ben Marshall




56   SONYMAGAZINE                     SONYMAGAZINE   57
As Ford prepares to offload Britain’s luxury brand, Jaguar bosses
are formulating plans to get it back on top — starting with a new
sports car. Steve Cropley and Julian Rendell report

                                                                    Jaguar F-type




» New models to restore profits by ’09
» Four all-new Jaguars by 2012
» New XK saloon to battle Porsche Panamera




                                                                                    ILLUSTRATION DELUSI
» Sports car ‘most wanted’ by Jag bosses
» Controversial Jag 4x4 crossover plan
You’re looking at
                                                                                 Merc’s sportiest
                                                                                 creation yet —
                                                                                 including the SLR




Black where it belongs
                         Mercedes’ new 500bhp CLK63 Black Series is priced to appeal
                         in the Square Mile, but it works best in the back of beyond, as
                         Jamie Corstorphine finds out over 1000 miles and one wild night
                         PHOTOGRAPHY STUART PRICE




Plenty of interest
in the CLK in the
City, but it longs for
fast, empty roads
WHITE RIOT
         T
Does the new Renaultsport Clio 197 Cup have the magic that
made its predecessor a hot hatch legend? Colin Goodwin
grabs the snow chains and heads to the Alps to find out
PHOTOGRAPHY STUART PRICE
GRAMOPHONE   GRAMOPHONE
GRAMOPHONE   GRAMOPHONE
yers




                                   let’s
                                                                                                 an M
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                                                                                  ogra
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Finger flickin’
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As if we didn’t
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Sony’s PSP
enough, the
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may soon be
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Kate
    Nike
Tracksuit top
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£35
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                                    ave a                    s co     pt
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                               ids h                     ame       g-u
                        hould k                   s or g          n
                   Why s                   ame                 ssi
                                     ard g                  dre
                                 r bo                 t th
                                                          e
                             refe                  rge
                        you p                    o
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                                        don




                                                                                                    original 69
Park larks
For the rules on
the best park
game, google
‘Ultimate
Frisbee’
– for which
you must use a
regulation-sized
flying disc that
holds exactly
three pints of
lager, as many
college teams
have been quick
to appreciate.

Kate
     Nike
Heat halter top
650047
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Urbanstone
Diva jeans
646089
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Dmitri
  Fred Perry
T-shirt
590009
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     Nike
Sportswear
tracksuit top
551015



70 original        original 71
Hot property
Monopoly is the
world’s favourite
board game –
250 million sets
have been sold
since it launched
72 years ago.
A 2005 edition
saw Trafalgar
Square’s value
rise from
the original’s
paltry £240
to a whopping
£2.4m.

Dmitri
 Jack & Jones
Bright tee
597064
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 Jack & Jones
Boxy jeans
644191
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   KSwiss
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110359
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Kate
  Henleys
Hawkins hoodie
530157
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 Golddigga
Bag
700248
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  Henleys
Beacon jeans
646083
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     Nike
Trainers
274183
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74 original         original 75
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MORE THAN A GAME CHESTERFIELD VS MANSFIELD TOWN




Words Nick Harper




“Why did they have to play it today?”          of “Scab, scab, scab”. It’s an hour before kick-    a simple bastardisation of the club’s nickname.
asks one of the many police officers on watch   off and there are groups of police officers          But to those old enough to know better, it’s
by Chesterfield’s Crooked Spire, surrounded     on almost every street corner. Just watching.       much more complex than that.
on all sides by Christmas shoppers. “Why       And waiting. By kick-off – brought forward             Sitting just 12 miles apart, Chesterfield
not leave it till January, when everybody      two hours to reduce the chance of booze-            and Mansfield have been rivals for decades.
would be indoors and out the way?”             fuelled festive fisticuffs – Chesterfield’s         The Spireites joined the Football League
                                               ramshackle old home will have 6,300 people          in 1889, Mansfield in 1931. “Until then,
It’s a good question, one FourFourTwo          – about as many as safety certificates will          Mansfield’s first team usually played our
is unable to answer. For while the fixture      allow – crammed inside, three-quarters of           reserves,” says Chesterfield historian Stuart
machine should be applauded for                 whom will have their eyes fixed firmly on            Basson, “and we pressed hard for their
bringing Chesterfield together                          the Cross Street End’s 1,400 visiting       election to the League.” When that elusive
with near-neighbours Mansfield                             fans: the Stags. Or as the home          election came at the seventh attempt the
on December 22, the long-                                       fans prefer, the Scabs...          rivalry took on extra significance, with
standing tensions between the two                                                                  points as well as local pride now at stake.
sets of fans have been foolishly                                             “Scab, scab, scab,       In truth, neither club has scaled the
overlooked. When Mansfield last                                               scab, scab, scab.”    heights – Mansfield’s elevation to the old
visited, in January 2003, hooligans                                                                Second Division in 1977 is the highest
from both sides clashed before,                                               “Scab, scab, scab,   either has clambered up the ladder, and that
during and after the game,                                                  scab, scab, scab.”     lasted just a single season. The Stags also
and there’s little reason to                                                                       won the Freight Rover Trophy in 1987,
believe they won’t do the                                                  What        this        while Chesterfield can boast of an Anglo-
same again today.                                                    incessant chant lacks in      Scottish Cup win in 1981, plus a heroic run
   Undeterred, we shuffle on                                       lyrical inventiveness it        to the brink of the FA Cup final in 1997.
towards Saltergate, where the                                       more than makes up             Throw in the odd promotion and
home fans are serenading their                                      for in old fashioned bile.     relegation and you’ve covered most of the
bitter rivals with a few throaty rasps                              To the outsider, it’s          significant moments.
he surroundings may not have been        Words Simon Talbot
        familiar, but there was no mistaking
        that grin. January 25 2007, the Stadio
Olimpico in Rome: a Coppa Italia match
between Roma and AC Milan is on the
pitch, but all the attention is focused on
beaming Brazilian in the black overcoat.
A camera crew follows him from the bowels
of the stadium car park, all industrial pipes
and strip lighting, to the stands, where he
picks his way to his seat in the directors’
box, shaking hands, signing autographs and
smiling that famous gap-toothed smile.
   As the front page of Spain’s best selling
newspaper puts it the following morning,
“Ronaldo is happy once again.” Five
injury-hit months in which he has played
just six league matches and scored only two
goals draw to a close; there is hope once
again. Five months during which his
relationship with the coach reached
breaking point, no longer protected by the
unequivocal backing of an indulgent
president, are over.
   So too is Ronaldo’s Real Madrid career.
After four and a half seasons and 100 goals,
he departs the Santiago Bernabeu for the
very last time, joining AC Milan for a fee
of around £10m. “Goodbye Ronaldo,
goodbye galaxy,” runs the front cover of
the sports daily Marca. “Ronaldo leaves,
closing the most luxurious chapter in Real
Madrid’s history.” In Milan, they can hardly
believe their luck; back in Madrid they’re
cursing theirs.
   That’s not all they’re cursing. Covering
the Roma-Milan game for Spanish
television, one Real Madrid-supporting
commentator can barely contain his
Why did you want to             What is life like at




     Musician Abbey Davis, 19
                                be an Army musician?            Kneller Hall?




                                                                Do you enjoy playing in
                                                                a marching band?
                                What was basic training like?




                                                                Beanie hat Carhartt
                                                                T-shirt National Army Museum
                                                                Sweatband Camden Market




50
How are you finding Army life?




Musician Sophie Johnson, 17
                                                                                            What’s it like being




                                                               Musician Rebecca Watts, 24
                              Why did you decide to become                                  an Army musician?
                              an Army musician?




                              What instruments do you play?
                                                                                            You are now playing in
                                                                                            an Army band, aren’t you?




                                                                                            Have you been abroad
                                                                                            with your job yet?




                                                                                            Cap Ecko
                                                                                            Snowboard jacket Carhartt
                                                                                            Snowboard trousers Carhartt
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FACE OF FASHION                                       THE FACE OF FASHION




                  Body talk
                      imbs honed to perfection, striding
                      forward with confidence, Diana
                  quickly adapted her wardrobe after her
                  separation from Charles. When the
                  Princess’s marriage ended so did her
                  commitment to demure hemlines and
                  the flat pumps that had ensured she
                  did not tower over the future king.
                       Previously, the rail-slim Princess
                  had the perfect body to show off
                  clothes; now the clothes were designed
                  to show off her body: tanned, fit and
                  looking sensational in simple shifts       LEFT: WEARING
                                                             VERSACE IN SYDNEY,
                                                             1996. TOP: VERSACE


                  for day and sexy cocktail dresses by       AGAIN, AT A PREMIERE
                                                             IN 1995. ABOVE: THE
                                                             INFAMOUS JOHN


                  night. Her release from ‘the Firm’         GALLIANO-DESIGNED
                                                             DIOR ‘NIGHTDRESS’ –
                                                             SO FLIMSY IT KEPT


                  gave her freedom to explore new            DIANA OFF THE
                                                             DANCEFLOOR WHEN
                                                             SHE WORE IT IN 1997.


                  designers. Versace, whose deliberately
                  provocative style would have been
                  considered unsuitable for a future
                  queen, became a close friend.
THE FACE OF FASHION




      Cultural expressions
      A sartorial approach to foreign travel makes Diana a star everywhere

                     lthough not known for her         Braemar Games. Some a little mischievous,
                     mastery of foreign tongues,       such as her penchant for sailor hats at Naval   BELOW, FROM LEFT:
                     Diana quickly learned how to      events. But all had the clear intention of      INSPECTING NAVAL
                     break down international          winning the hearts of her hosts. Even France    CADETS; MAPLE LEAF
                     barriers. From her first official   fell at her feet when, on her first visit and    INSPIRATION IN
                     walkabout tour, where she won     apparently embarrassed about her schoolgirl     CANADA; DRESSING
      over Wales with a red and green ensemble that    French, she dressed head to toe in Chanel.      CULTURALLY IN
      reflected the Welsh flag, she was a consumate         Local traditions and cultural nuances were   SPAIN, THAILAND
      communicator in the language of clothes.         woven into Diana’s wardrobe. She may not        AND EYGPT.
         Some interpretations were obvious, such as    have had an ‘O’ Level to her name, but in the   RIGHT: FLAG
      tartan and tam o’shanters for Scotland’s         diplomacy of dressing she was a star pupil.     FASHION IN JAPAN
THE FACE OF FASHION




Making a statement
The memorable night Diana let her wardrobe do the talking

                                        n 29 June 1994, Diana
                                        attended a fund-raising
                                        dinner at the Serpentine
                                        Gallery, of which she was
                                        patron. It was the night that
                                        Charles admitted he had
                      been unfaithful to Diana in a television
                      interview with Jonathan Dimbleby. For the
LEFT: THE CHRISTINA   occasion, Diana chose an asymmetric, ruched
STAMBOLIAN            black dress by Christina Stambolian.
CREATION THAT         Stunning. This was strategy dressing at its
BECAME KNOWN AS       boldest and the message it sent out was
THE ‘REVENGE          strong and clear. Diana was in control – and
DRESS’. ABOVE:        using her appearance to tell the world.
CHARLES WITH            Unsurprisingly, Diana and the dress stole
JONATHAN DIMBLEBY     the headlines the next day, relegating
                      Charles’s revelations to second place. Diana
                      had grown to understand the power of
                      clothes – and had shown she wasn’t afraid to
                      use them when she wanted to say something
                                                                        Christina Stambolian,
                      words couldn’t convey.                            designer
Trulli
Scrumptious
The it
                               parade
                                Warning: palpitations, heavy
                                breathing and excessive credit-
                                card use may result from our
                                preview of the new shoes, bags,
                                belts and can’t-do-without buys
                                MAIN PHOTOGRAPHS: Mash
                                FASHION: Carmen Borgonovo




Couture sandal in velvet and
lace, £1,600, Roger Vivier *



                                                              eve 13
office
heroes
Gorgeous, practical,
classic bags that look like
they mean business            £1,290, Roger Vivier *                 £875, Jimmy Choo *                     £935, Burberry *                     £425, Meli Melo




                                                  £1,000, Celine *                        £655, Loewe *8                      £1,120, YSL *




                              £885, Moschino *                          £675, Marni *                       £125, J by Jasper Conran at         £395, Belen Echandia *8
                                                                                                                Debenhams *8




                                                   £695, Luella 8                       £437, Antonio Berardi                   £420, Hogan *




From top: £795, Jimmy
Choo *; £615, Tod’s *;        £480, Longchamp *                      £595, Anya Hindmarch *8                     £360, Cora & Dee                  £630, Juicy Couture
£495, Hogan *



                                                                                                                                                                          eve 15
Around £267, Jean Michel Cazabat   £230, Pedro Garcia *8                       £430, Dior by John Galliano *       Around £437, Sergio Rossi *8
     at Harvey Nichols




                                                                                                                                                       glam
     £325, Patrick Cox *                £215, Nicole Farhi *                        £345, Christian Louboutin *8        £338, Cesare Paciotti 8
                                                                                                                                                         rocks
                                                                                                                                                         The new eveningwear features lace-
                                                                                                                                                         decked toes, unwrap-me bows and
                                                                                                                                                         sexy bejewelled straps. Delicious




     £650, Jimmy Choo *                 £372, Brian Atwood *8                       Around £403, Sergio Rossi *8        £550, Gina *8




                                                                                                                      £25, Marks & Spencer *8


                                                               £137, Felix Rey *8

     £55, Principles 8



                                                                                                                    £405, Christian Louboutin *8




                                                                                                                                                                        Sandals, £375, Brian
                                                                                                                                                                        Atwood *8. Clutch
                                                                                                                                                                        bag, £880, Rodo *8.
                                                                                                                                                                        Brooch, £2,550, H Stern
     £199, LK Bennett *                                    £832, Shana London *8                                         £450, Gina *8


18 eve
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  • 11. THE INTERVIEW: LEWIS HAMILTON o you thought the life of a Formula 1 driver was all glamour, eh? Whenever I see Lewis Hamilton in the newspapers, he’s stepping furtively from a limo (or as furtively as it’s possible to do from a luxury vehicle while dressed head-to-foot in Hugo Boss’s finest), hand and arm raised in a vain attempt to shield his head from the intruding lenses and seething flashbulbs of the paparazzi. The accompanying prose is often curiously anachronistic: pious and censorious, but breathlessly delivered and with malign glee, like the village busybody in a Victorian novel. It speaks of glittering parties, cocktails and canapes, red carpets and velvet ropes – and, of course, of romantic liaisons. Today, though, I’m meeting Lewis in the more down-to-earth setting of a Winnebago parked at Dunsfold Aerodrome in Surrey, under slate grey skies and perma-drizzle, where he’s filming an appearance on the BBC’s Top Gear programme. In one corner Lewis’s father, Anthony, is chatting to rugby legend Lawrence Dallaglio. In another, LAT photographer (and regular F1 Racing contributor) Glenn Dunbar is studying a TV news broadcast, the present subject of which is a camel that’s been taught to showjump. Lewis is enthusing to Clare Robertson, his PR minder from McLaren, about one of the speakers at the Prince’s Trust Future Investment dinner he attended the night before. “He [Mark Johnson, author of a book called Wasted] was just a normal bloke off the street,” he says. “But he’s been through hell. I’ve never heard as bad a story as that. Women in the audience were almost in tears. He was inspirational: he’d been in trouble since he was a kid, into robbing to fund his drugs habit, living on the street – he didn’t even have any shoes – until the Princes’ Trust reached out to him. I was blown away by his story – everyone was.” Hamilton Snr and Dallaglio excuse themselves with a cheery farewell as Lewis’s lunch is brought in: a plate of chicken curry and rice wrapped in tinfoil, with a side dish on which are perched a couple of bite-sized onion bhajis. So much for glamour… “I’ve been flat-out since the last race, with appearances and promotional events,” he says, lifting away the foil one corner at a time and sniffing the plate’s contents suspiciously before rearranging its contents with a fork. “I had a fitness week with the team – apart from that there hasn’t been a lot of time for training, or for relaxing, either. But that goes with the job, doesn’t it?” From outside I hear a muted squeal as four skinny, high-profile tyres yield their tenuous purchase on the slippery runway. In my peripheral vision, through the window, I see a pale blue Suzuki Liana whoosh past, engine straining. The driver botches the upchange, and for a second the engine yelps at its rev limiter – prompting Lewis to raise an eyebrow and glance out the window – before the higher ratio engages with a crunch. (Behind the wheel is the singer James Blunt, Hamilton’s assault who, for the benefit of our overseas readers, on F1 has been I should explain is taking part in the like a punch to programme’s regular ‘Star in a Reasonably the solar plexus Priced Car’ challenge, in which studio guests of all other drivers must set the best time they can in the long- suffering Suzuki.) Soon it will be Lewis’s turn, and I hear it took several months of January 2008 F1 Racing 31
  • 12. Design Council Issue 4 Magazine Summer 2008 How a dashboard can drive down emissions Or why knowledge equals less power, as a Dott 07 project shows that allowing householders to be energy-aware could equate to taking a quarter of all cars off UK roads Article by Crispin Andrews Through the roof: our homes Climate change may be the hot-button issue of the emit twice as much CO2 per year as the average car 21st century, but, for many people, the idea of being ‘low carb’ is still more likely to conjure up thoughts of the Atkins diet than a meaningful, sustained effort to reduce energy usage. And yet rethinking the basics of how we approach domestic energy usage has the potential to make a huge difference to the amount of carbon we produce. In fact, it could eclipse the efforts made by the automobile industry or the recycling lobby at a stroke – and for a fraction of the cost. Housing accounts for around 30% of the UK’s total CO2 emissions, with every household in the UK producing around six tonnes of CO2 each year – twice as much as the average car. New eco-builds that can harness solar, wind or wave power are one way forward, but what about existing housing stock? Short of replacing entire central heating systems and installing cavity wall and loft insulation in every home, what can be done about reducing the carbon emissions of the average household? Design consultancy live|work believes it has a potentially revelatory solution. Designs of the time (Dott 07), a year-long programme run throughout the north east of England and jointly funded by the Design Council and One North East, explores how design can make a positive difference to lives. Working on the Dott project dubbed Low Carb Lane in Ashington, Northumberland, the live|work team, led by Ben Reason and Alex Webb Allen, designed a product they believe could reduce overall CO2 emissions by up to 15%, simply by showing householders how much energy they use.
  • 13. Design Council Issue 4 22/23 Magazine Spring 2008 The future of fashion – nanotechnology, shirts that hug and jackets set to stun London College of Fashion There are two trends in the world today. One is towards chaos and disorder, for Smart clothing has the potential to example the threat of global revolutionise an industry, says Olivia Mikkael Persson Uptat. Sectet, vel esed etumsan estion ex erostrud Gordon, but will top designers wear it? Avbove, pleated skirt with electroluminescent Avbove, pleated skirt with electrolum. Imagine your own personal fabrication machine. on-demand, at a verbal signal from the wearer, by On waking, you programme in designs for a self- brushing the fabric or by changing one’s mood. cooling t-shirt in a colour and texture of your choice, Instead of buying three skirts, we might buy just a Chanel jacket with inbuilt computer, Chloé jeans one that changes colour, size and shape at our whim. that will remould to your exact shape after a big But how does an industry built on disposability lunch, and Jimmy Choo shoes with GPS tracking. survive such a revolution? Francesca Rosella, By the time you’re out of the shower, the clothes creative director of Shoreditch-based smart-fashion have been fabricated and are waiting in a neat pile. design company CuteCircuit, has said: “One of my This fantasy could be reality by the end of the obsessions is to see garments coming out three 21st century. 3D fabrication machines already in dimensionally from a machine. The fashion development would use nanotechnology to build industry is really scared that users could take over. objects atom by atom. Merely shopping for outfits But there is a business model – you send people will be rendered so ten minutes ago as a fabrication your designs and they just print them out at home.” machine is installed in every home. Rosella believes that far from stifling fashion, Smart clothing – intelligent garments that smart clothes will be in tune with the rising global actually work for us in some way – is not new. trend against over-consumption, and that a growing From the invention of the waterproof Mackintosh in the 1820s to stretchy Lycra in the late 1950s, ‘The fashion industry is really successive new technologies have gradually become taken for granted by fashion designers. In scared that users might take over, the last 20 years, we’ve come from Hypercolor t- but there is a business model’ shirts – which changed colour with heat but rarely survived a hot washing machine cycle – in the late number of people would rather spend more on a 1980s, to Marks & Spencer’s 2007 iPod Suit with a piece of intelligent clothing that has been lovingly control centre in the lapel. Today, a huge range of made, locally, by a reputable company, than get technology is used – although electrical currents or environmentally unsound bargains. nanotechnology are typically incorporated into But we’re nowhere near smart clothes appearing textiles with metallic yarns, sewn like any others. routinely on catwalks, let alone at TopShop. Sandy Cornell University researchers have designed Black, professor of fashion and textile design and self-cleaning garments that protect from colds, flu technology at the London College of Fashion, and air pollution (the fabric is impregnated with stresses that, currently, “the driving force which tiny antibacterial metallic particles); a US Navy- pays for the technology is military or medical. At the financed shirt monitors heart rate and body sports and wellbeing end, things are beginning to temperature; C.A.T.S.eye solar-powered trackable happen, but they’re not fashion. They’re clothing.” clothing means the wearer will never be lost; the As the pace of scientific discovery accelerates, No-Contact jacket sends 80,000 volts into assailants. fashion designers need to be true futurologists – and But what’s the next step? And how radically will the inventors with a firm grasp of the latest technological clothes of the future change the way we dress? possibilities when it comes to materials. With smart-clothing, trends will be dictated not No matter how effective the technology, by fashionistas, but by wearers controlling the way the design has to be simple, next-to-invisible, their clothes look and feel. Clothes will transmute non-gimmicky and function perfectly for fashion
  • 14. Design Council Issue 4 66/67 Magazine Summer 2008 Case study 3 passport-issuing software was fine-tuned to make it more productive and a new computerised processing system installed. To cut waiting times, The Passport Agency uses opening hours and appointment availability were increased; appointment-only counter services, premium and fast-track services were introduced service design to stop to reduce queues. The agency then beefed up its project management systems and private-sector infuriating customers partnerships and strengthened its risk management and contingency planning. Soon, the service was meeting its target of In 1999, at least 500 holidays were cancelled due answering 90% of calls within 20 seconds. to a crisis at the UK Passport Agency. Applications Application waiting times fell from a 51-day nadir were taking up to 50 days to process – they were in 1999 to a six-day average across 2003-2006. supposed to take only five. Panic-stricken travellers Of 4.2 million calls in 2006-7, fewer than 1% camped outside passport offices – the agency were met with an engaged tone. spent £16,000 on providing umbrellas for rain- lashed applicants – while around 3.5 million calls The agency’s next big task is to ensure it tackles went unanswered. The agency’s new computer identity fraud, that most 21st-century of crimes. system had produced 400,000 fewer passports With 47 million British passports in circulation, the than expected in its first nine months of operation, UK is the world’s second biggest passport issuer generating a backlog that ultimately cost the behind the US. Today, 80% of Brits hold one – government £12.6m, including £161,000 in whereas fewer than one in four people had one in compensation to irate would-be holidaymakers. 1984. In 2006, the Passport Agency merged with the Home Office identity cards programme as the Yet in 2006, for the third year running, the agency Identity and Passport Service (IPS). New measures ranked first for overall customer satisfaction in the have led to fee increases, concerns about civil CompariSat surveys of public and private sector liberties and, in some cases, longer waiting periods. organisations, with a 97% approval rate. How did With the introduction of biometric ‘ePassports’, it achieve such a remarkable turnaround? By with a secure chip that stores a scan of the holder’s prioritising customer relations and thinking photo, fees have risen by almost a third – to £66. hard about service design. The next stage will be a passport holding “There was a big focus on systems redesign, but fingerprints ,while all applicants’ details, including more importantly on restoring public confidence,” eye or facial scans, are now being stored on says Bernard Herdan, who took over as chief government databases. There are massive executive after the crisis. The first stage was challenges ahead, but the service will be much understanding what went wrong. Crucially, the better prepared for the worst-case scenario in future. agency had underestimated the impact of the new computer system on productivity – for many staff it had meant a transition from paper to screen. Demand for passports was high, partly due to the A brief history of the British passport new requirement for children to have their own 1414 First ‘safe documents’ referenced in parliament passports. Once the backlog began, the in-house phone service couldn’t handle the volume of calls. 1641 Date of oldest surviving passport, signed by King Charles 1 As people panicked, the crisis escalated. Britons with up to six months left on their passport joined 1858 Standard, single-page documents issued solely the queue. “We didn’t have proper systems in place to British nationals to communicate with our customers,” says Herdan. 1914 Passports become a single sheet folded into eight with a cardboard cover After consulting with customers, and studying best 1920 Passport Service develops and introduces practice in Australia – generally recognised to have ‘Old Blue’, a 32-page passport with firm cover the best passport service in the world – the Passport Agency published a recovery plan. 1988 Burgundy-coloured, machine-readable passports issued, following a European Community-approved format To gain some immediate respite, calls were outsourced to a 24-hour centre and a user-friendly 2006 Biometric ‘ePassports’, with a secure chip website and system for handling email enquiries containing a scan of the holder’s photograph was set up. Addressing the crux of the problem, the and signature, are introduced
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  • 20. NEW YEAR ★ NEW GEAR NEW YEAR★ NEW GEAR You v.2007 was a high performance unit, but it’s time for an upgrade. Over the following pages we’re going to tell you exactly what peripherals you’ll need to turn yourself into the person you have the potential to be – and how to make the most of 2008
  • 21. Digital watches GEAR Top to bottom… Junghans Mega 1000 £230 0870 750 2013 Adidas Oddity Candy £50 www.adidas.com/watches Timex Digital Indigo £20 0208 3268 900 Tag Heuer Microtimer £1275 www.tagheuer.com Storm Elexo £90 0870 027 8676 al igit od og et tim – it’s hes watc ned shio -fa old ke ma nds ha Many Pictures Matthew Beedle
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  • 27. “You’re a good night in one man, Crowe. I think I’m going to like you” That’s what the late, great Richard Harris said when he first met Russell Crowe. But what’s Crowe really like? Best ask someone who’s been his friend for 18 years. In this Sony Magazine exclusive, Editor-at-Large Martyn Palmer takes us out on the road in LA and London with the Oscar-winning actor PORTRAIT BY THEO KINGMA/REX FEATURES SONYMAGAZINE 43
  • 28. Armed only with a laptop, a phone and an occasional cryptic message to guide them, two men embark on a mission – it’s the Sony Magazine Challenge… Story by Ben Marshall Photos by Grant Fleming 50 SONYMAGAZINE SONYMAGAZINE 51
  • 29. electric light orchestra When it comes to fashion shoots involving neon lights and groovy clothes, you’re always best advised to wheel in a couple of good- looking pop stars. Enter Mima and Jim, otherwise known as electro art-pop duo Kish Mauve. Nice JIM& MIMAwearing Peace and Love T-shirts by Katharine E Hamnett
  • 30. Who is this glamorous young woman, whose first album was the UK’s fastest-selling debut ever? Story by Ben Marshall 56 SONYMAGAZINE SONYMAGAZINE 57
  • 31. As Ford prepares to offload Britain’s luxury brand, Jaguar bosses are formulating plans to get it back on top — starting with a new sports car. Steve Cropley and Julian Rendell report Jaguar F-type » New models to restore profits by ’09 » Four all-new Jaguars by 2012 » New XK saloon to battle Porsche Panamera ILLUSTRATION DELUSI » Sports car ‘most wanted’ by Jag bosses » Controversial Jag 4x4 crossover plan
  • 32. You’re looking at Merc’s sportiest creation yet — including the SLR Black where it belongs Mercedes’ new 500bhp CLK63 Black Series is priced to appeal in the Square Mile, but it works best in the back of beyond, as Jamie Corstorphine finds out over 1000 miles and one wild night PHOTOGRAPHY STUART PRICE Plenty of interest in the CLK in the City, but it longs for fast, empty roads
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  • 48. WHITE RIOT T Does the new Renaultsport Clio 197 Cup have the magic that made its predecessor a hot hatch legend? Colin Goodwin grabs the snow chains and heads to the Alps to find out PHOTOGRAPHY STUART PRICE
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  • 61. yers let’s an M Adri phy ogra Phot play! Finger flickin’ good As if we didn’t already love Sony’s PSP enough, the rumour is we may soon be able to call our mates on it too! Kate Nike Tracksuit top 551000 r £35 hethe fun? And w oles, ll the ns ave a s co pt oo ids h ame g-u hould k s or g n Why s ame ssi ard g dre r bo t th e refe rge you p o ’t f don original 69
  • 62. Park larks For the rules on the best park game, google ‘Ultimate Frisbee’ – for which you must use a regulation-sized flying disc that holds exactly three pints of lager, as many college teams have been quick to appreciate. Kate Nike Heat halter top 650047 £15 Urbanstone Diva jeans 646089 £50 Dmitri Fred Perry T-shirt 590009 £25 Nike Sportswear tracksuit top 551015 70 original original 71
  • 63. Hot property Monopoly is the world’s favourite board game – 250 million sets have been sold since it launched 72 years ago. A 2005 edition saw Trafalgar Square’s value rise from the original’s paltry £240 to a whopping £2.4m. Dmitri Jack & Jones Bright tee 597064 £13.99 Jack & Jones Boxy jeans 644191 £59.99 KSwiss Davock trainers 110359 £55 Kate Henleys Hawkins hoodie 530157 £50 Golddigga Bag 700248 £20 Henleys Beacon jeans 646083 £65 Nike Trainers 274183 £50 74 original original 75
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  • 89. MORE THAN A GAME CHESTERFIELD VS MANSFIELD TOWN Words Nick Harper “Why did they have to play it today?” of “Scab, scab, scab”. It’s an hour before kick- a simple bastardisation of the club’s nickname. asks one of the many police officers on watch off and there are groups of police officers But to those old enough to know better, it’s by Chesterfield’s Crooked Spire, surrounded on almost every street corner. Just watching. much more complex than that. on all sides by Christmas shoppers. “Why And waiting. By kick-off – brought forward Sitting just 12 miles apart, Chesterfield not leave it till January, when everybody two hours to reduce the chance of booze- and Mansfield have been rivals for decades. would be indoors and out the way?” fuelled festive fisticuffs – Chesterfield’s The Spireites joined the Football League ramshackle old home will have 6,300 people in 1889, Mansfield in 1931. “Until then, It’s a good question, one FourFourTwo – about as many as safety certificates will Mansfield’s first team usually played our is unable to answer. For while the fixture allow – crammed inside, three-quarters of reserves,” says Chesterfield historian Stuart machine should be applauded for whom will have their eyes fixed firmly on Basson, “and we pressed hard for their bringing Chesterfield together the Cross Street End’s 1,400 visiting election to the League.” When that elusive with near-neighbours Mansfield fans: the Stags. Or as the home election came at the seventh attempt the on December 22, the long- fans prefer, the Scabs... rivalry took on extra significance, with standing tensions between the two points as well as local pride now at stake. sets of fans have been foolishly “Scab, scab, scab, In truth, neither club has scaled the overlooked. When Mansfield last scab, scab, scab.” heights – Mansfield’s elevation to the old visited, in January 2003, hooligans Second Division in 1977 is the highest from both sides clashed before, “Scab, scab, scab, either has clambered up the ladder, and that during and after the game, scab, scab, scab.” lasted just a single season. The Stags also and there’s little reason to won the Freight Rover Trophy in 1987, believe they won’t do the What this while Chesterfield can boast of an Anglo- same again today. incessant chant lacks in Scottish Cup win in 1981, plus a heroic run Undeterred, we shuffle on lyrical inventiveness it to the brink of the FA Cup final in 1997. towards Saltergate, where the more than makes up Throw in the odd promotion and home fans are serenading their for in old fashioned bile. relegation and you’ve covered most of the bitter rivals with a few throaty rasps To the outsider, it’s significant moments.
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  • 91. he surroundings may not have been Words Simon Talbot familiar, but there was no mistaking that grin. January 25 2007, the Stadio Olimpico in Rome: a Coppa Italia match between Roma and AC Milan is on the pitch, but all the attention is focused on beaming Brazilian in the black overcoat. A camera crew follows him from the bowels of the stadium car park, all industrial pipes and strip lighting, to the stands, where he picks his way to his seat in the directors’ box, shaking hands, signing autographs and smiling that famous gap-toothed smile. As the front page of Spain’s best selling newspaper puts it the following morning, “Ronaldo is happy once again.” Five injury-hit months in which he has played just six league matches and scored only two goals draw to a close; there is hope once again. Five months during which his relationship with the coach reached breaking point, no longer protected by the unequivocal backing of an indulgent president, are over. So too is Ronaldo’s Real Madrid career. After four and a half seasons and 100 goals, he departs the Santiago Bernabeu for the very last time, joining AC Milan for a fee of around £10m. “Goodbye Ronaldo, goodbye galaxy,” runs the front cover of the sports daily Marca. “Ronaldo leaves, closing the most luxurious chapter in Real Madrid’s history.” In Milan, they can hardly believe their luck; back in Madrid they’re cursing theirs. That’s not all they’re cursing. Covering the Roma-Milan game for Spanish television, one Real Madrid-supporting commentator can barely contain his
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  • 94. Why did you want to What is life like at Musician Abbey Davis, 19 be an Army musician? Kneller Hall? Do you enjoy playing in a marching band? What was basic training like? Beanie hat Carhartt T-shirt National Army Museum Sweatband Camden Market 50
  • 95. How are you finding Army life? Musician Sophie Johnson, 17 What’s it like being Musician Rebecca Watts, 24 Why did you decide to become an Army musician? an Army musician? What instruments do you play? You are now playing in an Army band, aren’t you? Have you been abroad with your job yet? Cap Ecko Snowboard jacket Carhartt Snowboard trousers Carhartt
  • 96. PROMOTION HIDEAWAY HOT TOTTIE GLAMOUR SHOT Product (Cat No: WT19618), £xx. Product (Cat No: WT19618), £xx. Product (Cat No: WT19618), £xx. STYLE Shop at home for life’s little (and big) luxuries at Littlewoods DIRECTION Direct. Not just brilliant fashion, but all-round style. Here are some of eve’s fave buys TIME PIECE Product (Cat No: WT19618), £xx. ECO KIDS Product (Cat No: WT19618), £xx. PUMP UP THE VOLUME Product (Cat No: WT19618), £xx. NIGHT LIGHTS Product (Cat No: WT19618), £xx. Siduisl diam venissecte vel il ut lutet, vulputatis aliquat praestie dolore ea adiametue magna CLEAN faccum non utpat MACHINE Product (Cat No: WT19618), £175, Product (Cat No: WT19618), £xx. Brand name. Product (Cat No: WT19618), £145, Brand name. All at Littlewoods Direct GLAMOUR SHOT Product (Cat No: WT19618), £xx. www.littlewoodsdirect.com 08448 222 321
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  • 103. FACE OF FASHION THE FACE OF FASHION Body talk imbs honed to perfection, striding forward with confidence, Diana quickly adapted her wardrobe after her separation from Charles. When the Princess’s marriage ended so did her commitment to demure hemlines and the flat pumps that had ensured she did not tower over the future king. Previously, the rail-slim Princess had the perfect body to show off clothes; now the clothes were designed to show off her body: tanned, fit and looking sensational in simple shifts LEFT: WEARING VERSACE IN SYDNEY, 1996. TOP: VERSACE for day and sexy cocktail dresses by AGAIN, AT A PREMIERE IN 1995. ABOVE: THE INFAMOUS JOHN night. Her release from ‘the Firm’ GALLIANO-DESIGNED DIOR ‘NIGHTDRESS’ – SO FLIMSY IT KEPT gave her freedom to explore new DIANA OFF THE DANCEFLOOR WHEN SHE WORE IT IN 1997. designers. Versace, whose deliberately provocative style would have been considered unsuitable for a future queen, became a close friend.
  • 104. THE FACE OF FASHION Cultural expressions A sartorial approach to foreign travel makes Diana a star everywhere lthough not known for her Braemar Games. Some a little mischievous, mastery of foreign tongues, such as her penchant for sailor hats at Naval BELOW, FROM LEFT: Diana quickly learned how to events. But all had the clear intention of INSPECTING NAVAL break down international winning the hearts of her hosts. Even France CADETS; MAPLE LEAF barriers. From her first official fell at her feet when, on her first visit and INSPIRATION IN walkabout tour, where she won apparently embarrassed about her schoolgirl CANADA; DRESSING over Wales with a red and green ensemble that French, she dressed head to toe in Chanel. CULTURALLY IN reflected the Welsh flag, she was a consumate Local traditions and cultural nuances were SPAIN, THAILAND communicator in the language of clothes. woven into Diana’s wardrobe. She may not AND EYGPT. Some interpretations were obvious, such as have had an ‘O’ Level to her name, but in the RIGHT: FLAG tartan and tam o’shanters for Scotland’s diplomacy of dressing she was a star pupil. FASHION IN JAPAN
  • 105. THE FACE OF FASHION Making a statement The memorable night Diana let her wardrobe do the talking n 29 June 1994, Diana attended a fund-raising dinner at the Serpentine Gallery, of which she was patron. It was the night that Charles admitted he had been unfaithful to Diana in a television interview with Jonathan Dimbleby. For the LEFT: THE CHRISTINA occasion, Diana chose an asymmetric, ruched STAMBOLIAN black dress by Christina Stambolian. CREATION THAT Stunning. This was strategy dressing at its BECAME KNOWN AS boldest and the message it sent out was THE ‘REVENGE strong and clear. Diana was in control – and DRESS’. ABOVE: using her appearance to tell the world. CHARLES WITH Unsurprisingly, Diana and the dress stole JONATHAN DIMBLEBY the headlines the next day, relegating Charles’s revelations to second place. Diana had grown to understand the power of clothes – and had shown she wasn’t afraid to use them when she wanted to say something Christina Stambolian, words couldn’t convey. designer
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  • 116. The it parade Warning: palpitations, heavy breathing and excessive credit- card use may result from our preview of the new shoes, bags, belts and can’t-do-without buys MAIN PHOTOGRAPHS: Mash FASHION: Carmen Borgonovo Couture sandal in velvet and lace, £1,600, Roger Vivier * eve 13
  • 117. office heroes Gorgeous, practical, classic bags that look like they mean business £1,290, Roger Vivier * £875, Jimmy Choo * £935, Burberry * £425, Meli Melo £1,000, Celine * £655, Loewe *8 £1,120, YSL * £885, Moschino * £675, Marni * £125, J by Jasper Conran at £395, Belen Echandia *8 Debenhams *8 £695, Luella 8 £437, Antonio Berardi £420, Hogan * From top: £795, Jimmy Choo *; £615, Tod’s *; £480, Longchamp * £595, Anya Hindmarch *8 £360, Cora & Dee £630, Juicy Couture £495, Hogan * eve 15
  • 118. Around £267, Jean Michel Cazabat £230, Pedro Garcia *8 £430, Dior by John Galliano * Around £437, Sergio Rossi *8 at Harvey Nichols glam £325, Patrick Cox * £215, Nicole Farhi * £345, Christian Louboutin *8 £338, Cesare Paciotti 8 rocks The new eveningwear features lace- decked toes, unwrap-me bows and sexy bejewelled straps. Delicious £650, Jimmy Choo * £372, Brian Atwood *8 Around £403, Sergio Rossi *8 £550, Gina *8 £25, Marks & Spencer *8 £137, Felix Rey *8 £55, Principles 8 £405, Christian Louboutin *8 Sandals, £375, Brian Atwood *8. Clutch bag, £880, Rodo *8. Brooch, £2,550, H Stern £199, LK Bennett * £832, Shana London *8 £450, Gina *8 18 eve
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