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50
KING OF
the grapes
An impressive cast of judges convened for the Global Cabernet Sauvignon
Masters to put 200 wines through their paces. Lucy Shaw presents the results
50-57 Cab Sav masters CYgs_Layout 1 27/06/2014 16:07 Page 50
howlers, thankfully,” quipped Payne.
“Caberent Sauvignon proved that it is
able to deliver value for money. Producers
across the world are stepping up their
game and the hit rate in the competition
was very good,” added Hugo Rose MW
of the Wine Investment Association.
In terms of individual countries, judges
praised Chile for its ability to deliver
reliable and consistently high-quality
Cabernet at an affordable price point.
“You can find fantastic value in Chile,
which has a lot to recommend it,” said
Payne. “The consistency of the Chilean
Cabs was a big surprise for me – the
wines offered dark fruit and a creamy
texture,” commented Vanessa
Cinti, head sommelier of
Wolfgang Puck’s debut London
restaurant Cut at 45 Park Lane.
While the US put in a consistent
performance, it was Australia,
and most notably Coonawarra,
that got our judges’ pulses
racing, with the inherent
elegance of the wines from the
Southern Australian region
setting them apart. Australia also
led the way in the gold medal
tally, scooping five golds and a
51
In a crowded wine competition arena,
the drinks business Global Cabernet
Sauvignon Masters stands out for its
assessment of wines purely by grape
variety rather than region. Divided
only by price bracket and, for ease of
judging, whether the style was oaked
or unoaked, the blind tasting format
allowed wines to be assessed without
prejudice about their country of
origin. The wines were scored out of
100, with those gaining more than 95
points being awarded the top title of
Master. Those earning more than 90
points were given a gold, those more
than 85 points a silver, and those more
than 80 points a bronze. The wines
were judged by a stellar group of
Masters of Wine on 8 May at Elysée
restaurant in London’s Goodge Street.
cabernet sauvignon masters
4
HAVING RECENTLY cemented its title
as king of the grapes with the news that it
has overtaken Spanish white variety
Airén as the world’s most widely planted
grape, no serious wine competition
would be complete that didn’t put
Cabernet Sauvignon under the
microscope. According to a recent study
form the University of Adelaide, since
1990, Cabernet Sauvignon has more than
doubled its share of hectares under vine,
though many may argue its heartland
remains on Bordeaux’s Left Bank, where
some of the world’s most highly prized
wines are crafted from the grape, which is
used to form the backbone of Bordeaux
blends. However, this thick-skinned
variety can thrive in an array of terroirs
around the world, and can be found
flourishing everywhere from Coonawarra
and Margaret River in Australia to the
Napa Valley in California and Chile’s
Maipo Valley.
The 17th century lovechild of Cabernet
Franc and Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet
Sauvignon is appreciated by grape
growers for its naturally low-yielding,
late-ripening nature and ability to add
structure, colour and power to blends. In
addition, the grape’s naturally high
acidity and tannic structure mean wines
made from Cabernet can be built to last.
Given that it is planted in a plethora of
pockets around the world, there is no
cookie-cutter signature style for Cabernet,
though many boast notes of blackcurrant,
mint, eucalyptus, bell pepper and cedar,
with cherry and olive notes present in
cooler-climate Cabernets, and warmer
Cabs often veering towards the jammier
end of the flavour spectrum.
Building on from the success of both the
Chardonnay Masters and the Pinot Noir
Masters, around 200 wines from nine
countries were submitted to our
inaugural Cabernet Sauvignon Masters,
with judging taking place on 8 May at
Elysée restaurant in central London.
Served blind and assessed without
prejudice about their country of origin,
the wines were arranged according to
their price band as well as style, from low
price to high, and unoaked to oaked, in
order to make the competition as fair as
possible. Judged by a stellar panel of
Masters of Wine, including Sebastian
Payne MW of The Wine Society, Demetri
Walters MW of Berry Bros & Rudd and
Justin Knock MW of Encirc, the wines
were scored out of 100, with those gaining
more than 95 points being awarded the
top title of Master. Those earning more
than 90 points were given a gold, those
more than 85 points a silver, and those
more than 80 points a bronze.
NEW ORDER
The majority of entries for our Cabernet
Sauvignon Masters came from the New
World, with just one wine from Bordeaux
taking part in the competition. While two-
thirds of the wines were single-varietal
Cabernet, the remainder were blends
crafted from at least 75% Cabernet
Sauvignon. During the tasting, the judges
looked for balance, fine tannic structure, a
bright fruit profile and a complex
character, as well as a long finish.
So how did the wines fare? Of the 200
wines that entered, 141 were medal-
winners, with 83 walking away with a
bronze, 41 awarded silver, 14 impressing
enough for a gold and just three scooping
the top accolade of a Master medal.
“Cabernet is one of the great grapes of the
world and you can see why it’s planted
everywhere as it delivers on many
different levels. We haven’t had too many
Cabernet Sauvignon proved
that it is able to deliver value
for money. Producers across
the world are stepping up
their game
About the competition
50-57 Cab Sav masters CYgs_Layout 1 27/06/2014 16:07 Page 51
52
Master for Katnook Founder’s Block
Cabernet Sauvignon 2010. “Both Australia
and Argentina are doing a very good
job with Cabernet Sauvignon and are
offering decent-quality examples for
under £10. You can see the evolution the
countries have undergone in recent years.
The Australian wines were lovely and
fresh with herbal and menthol notes,”
said Cinti.
Hot on Australia’s heels was Chile,
which won four golds, followed by
Argentina, which scooped two golds and
a Master for Pascual Toso Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, with Spain
picking up the third and final Master for
Torres’ Mas La Plana 2010, which has
been made from a 29-hectare vineyard in
the northern Spanish region of Penedès
since 1970. South Africa delivered a solid
performance, earning two gold and three
silver medals, while, somewhat
surprisingly given its strong links to
Cabernet, the US picked up only one gold
medal for Jackson Family Wines
Stonestreet Monument Ridge Cabernet
Sauvignon 2010.
QUESTION OF STYLE
A debate arose around oak, with
a number of judges lamenting
the inability on the part of many
producers to handle it properly.
“While Cabernet has a natural
affinity for oak, a lot of the wines
were smothered and it wasn’t
used judiciously, meaning the
oak owned the wine rather than
the other way around,”
commented Berry Bros & Rudd’s
Walters. Payne of The Wine
Society concurred. “At the end of
You can see the evolution the
countries have undergone in
recent years. The Australian
wines were lovely and fresh
with herbal and menthol notes
cabernet sauvignon masters
Medal winners: blends
Company Wine Vintage Country Medal
Unoaked blends under £10
Viña Canepa Novisimo Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile Bronze
Oaked blends under £10
Constellation Brands Canada Clos du Bois North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 USA Silver
Viña Maipo Vitral Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile Bronze
Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile Bronze
Viña Luis Felipe Edwards Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile Bronze
Constellation Brands Canada The Dreaming Tree Cabernet Sauvignon North Coast 2012 USA Bronze
Viña Canepa Finisimo Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile Bronze
De Bortoli wines DB Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia Bronze
Oaked blends £10-£20
Santa Rita Estates Santa Rita Medalla Real 2010 Chile Gold
Chamlija Wines Chamlija Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Turkey Bronze
Bisquertt Ecos de Rulo, Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile Bronze
Viña Cobos Felino Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina Bronze
Banfi Aska, Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2012 Italy Bronze
Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile Bronze
Ste Michelle Wine Estates Columbia Crest Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA Bronze
Jackson Family Wines Kendall Jackson Vintner's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA Bronze
Viña Maipo Gran Devoción Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah 2011 Chile Bronze
Constellation Brands Canada Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA Bronze
4
50-57 Cab Sav masters CYgs_Layout 1 27/06/2014 16:07 Page 52
54
cabernet sauvignon masters
Medal winners: blends (continued)
Company Wine Vintage Country Medal
Oaked blends £20-£30
Bodegas La Rosa Cientoquince CXV 2011 Argentina Gold
MontGras Properties Montgras Ninquén 2010 Chile Silver
Thompson Estate Thompson Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia Silver
Castello di Amorosa Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA Silver
Jackson Family Wines Kendall Jackson Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA Silver
Ste Michelle Wine Estates Chateau Ste Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2012 USA Bronze
Thompson Estate Thompson Estate Andrea 2010 Australia Bronze
Treasury Wine Estates Beringer Knights Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA Bronze
Oaked blends £30+
Voyager Estate Voyager Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2009 Australia Gold
Ste Michelle Wine Estates Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Artemis Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA Silver
Viña Canepa Magnifcvm 2011 Chile Silver
Errázuriz Don Maximiano 2011 Chile Silver
Jackson Family Wines Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA Silver
Ste Michelle Wine Estates Col Solare 2010 USA Silver
Constellation Brands Canada Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2008 USA Silver
Ste Michelle Wine Estates Chateau Ste Michelle Indian Well Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 USA Bronze
Cono Sur 20 Barrels Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile Bronze
Ste Michelle Wine Estates Château Ste Michelle Cold Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA Bronze
Jackson Family Wines Atalon Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA Bronze
Viña Maipo Protegido 2010 Chile Bronze
Errázuriz Don Maximiano 2010 Chile Bronze
Ste Michelle Wine Estates Columbia Crest Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA Bronze
Jackson Family Wines La Jota Vineyard Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA Bronze
Cobblestone Vineyards Cobblestone Vineyards Reserve Atlas Peak, Napa Valley 2009 USA Bronze
Medal winners: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon (under £10)
Company Wine Vintage Country Medal
Unoaked 100% Cabernet Sauvignon under £10
Rock N Roll Wines AB Kiss Monster Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA Bronze
Blends Wine Estates UK Tomero Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina Bronze
Oaked 100% Cabernet Sauvignon under £10
Bodegas La Rosa Finca La Escondida Reserve 2013 Argentina Gold
Wakefield/Taylors Wines Promised Land Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Australia Gold
Vina Terranoble Terranoble Reserva Terroir Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile Gold
MP Wines Killka Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Argentina Silver
Blaxland Wine Group Barton Steer Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Australia Silver
Viña Mistamar Vistamar Sepia Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile Silver
Barton & Guestier B&G Réserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 France Bronze
MontGras Properties MontGras Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Chile Bronze
Viña Luis Felipe Edwards Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Chile Bronze
Trinchero Family Estates Sutter Home Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 USA Bronze
RPB El Supremo Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina Bronze
Bodegas Pascual Toso Pascual Toso Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Argentina Bronze
Doolhof Wine Estate Signature Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 South Africa Bronze
Rietvallei Wine Estate Rietvallei Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 South Africa Bronze
50-57 Cab Sav masters CYgs_Layout 1 27/06/2014 16:07 Page 54
55
cabernet sauvignon masters
Medal winners: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon (£10-£20)
Company Wine Vintage Country Medal
Katnook Coonawarra Katnook Founder's Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia Master
Bodegas Pascual Toso Pascual Toso Selected/Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Argentina Master
Spier Wines Savanha Naledi Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 South Africa Gold
Viña Terramater Terramater Altum Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Chile Gold
Bodegas Pascual Toso Pascual Toso Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Argentina Silver
KWV KWV The Mentors Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 South Africa Silver
Hedges Family Estate House of Independent Producers, Sagemoor Vineyard, Columbia Valley 2012 USA Silver
Angove Family Winemakers Vineyard Select Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Australia Silver
Viña Siegel Single Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley 2012 Chile Silver
Viña Valdivieso Valdivieso Single Valley Lot Cabernet Sauvignon, Rapel 2012 Chile Silver
McManis FV McManis Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA Silver
Pernod Ricard Jacob's Creek Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra 2012 Australia Silver
Carolina Wine Brands Casablanca Nimbus Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile Silver
Carolina Wine Brands Santa Carolina Reserva de Familia Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile Silver
Viña Morandé Morandé Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile Silver
Santa Rita Estates Nativa Gran Reserva 2011 2011 Chile Silver
Miguel Torres Chile Cordillera Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile Silver
Finca Monteflores Finca Monteflores Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Argentina Silver
Viña Terramater Terramater Limited Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Chile Silver
Namaqua Wines Spencer Bay Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 South Africa Silver
Viña Los Boldos Momentos Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Chile Bronze
Viña Los Boldos Chateau Los Boldos, Cuvée Tradition, Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Chile Bronze
Distell First Cape Special Cuvée Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 South Africa Bronze
Santa Rita Estates Doña Paula Estate 2012 Argentina Bronze
Wakefield/Taylors Wines Jaraman Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Australia Bronze
Viña Pérez Cruz Perez Cruz Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile Bronze
MP Wines Salentein Primus Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina Bronze
El Esteco Serie Finca Notables Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina Bronze
Trinchero Family Estates Menage a Trois Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 USA Bronze
Wakefield/Taylors Wines Wakefield/Taylors Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Australia Bronze
Trinchero Family Estates Napa Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 USA Bronze
Woodstock Wine Estate Woodstock Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Australia Bronze
El Esteco El Esteco Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina Bronze
Trinchero Family Estates Joel Gott Cabernet Sauvignon 815 2012 USA Bronze
Spier Wines Spier 21 Gables Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 South Africa Bronze
Bodega Norton Norton Winemaker Selection Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Argentina Bronze
Trinchero Family Estates Folie a Deux Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA Bronze
Carolina Wine Brands Santa Carolina Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile Bronze
Viña Pérez Cruz Pircas de Liguai Cabernet Sauvignon Single Collection 2011 Chile Bronze
La Motte Wine Estate La Motte Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile Bronze
Viña Valdivieso Valdivieso Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo 2011 Chile Bronze
Diemersfontein Woolworths Founder’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 South Africa Bronze
Casarena Casarena Bodega y Viñedos 2011 Argentina Bronze
Viña Terranoble Terranoble Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile Bronze
Domingo Hermanos Finca De Domingo Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Argentina Bronze
Langmeil Winery Langmeil Blacksmith Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia Bronze
Cederberg Cederberg Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 South Africa Bronze
Domaine Denois Cabernet Sauvignon La Bourdette 2010 France Bronze
Casa Altamira SonVida Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Argentina Bronze
Spain picked up a Master for the Torres Mas La Plana 2010,
which has been made from a 29-hectare vineyard in the northern
Spanish region of Penedès since 1970 4
50-57 Cab Sav masters CYgs_Layout 1 27/06/2014 16:08 Page 55
more rounded and balanced with better
palate weight and structure than the
single varietals,” said Walters, to which
Payne added: “As a single varietal,
Cabernet Sauvignon rarely hits the high
spots – it works better in blends. As a
grape it does fantastically commercially
and is hugely successful; the trick is to
keep the freshness locked in.”
Cinti, meanwhile, was more forgiving of
the single varietals. “Some of them
worked well – I think there is a space for
them in the market. When made well,
Cabernet can more than hold its own as a
single-varietal wine,” she said. db
56
the day, you want to be able to drink the
whole bottle, not just one glass, and some
of the wines messed around with the oak
a little too much and the alcohol levels
were too high, but there is a market for
those styles of wine,” he said.
As to whether Cabernet performs better
in a blend or as a solo act, the judges were
unanimous on the former. “I’m not
certain that Cabernet Sauvignon delivers
varietal character under £10. What you
tend to get is a lot of structure without the
fruit balance. A few of the under-£10
wines worked, but the tannin often
smothered the fruit. The blends were
cabernet sauvignon masters
Medal winners: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon (£20-£30 & £30+)
Company Wine Vintage Country Medal
Oaked 100% Cabernet Sauvignon £20-£30
Cono Sur Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile Gold
Cederberg Cederberg Five Generations Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 South Africa Gold
Bird in Hand Bird in Hand Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia Gold
Treasury Wine Estates Wynns “Black Label” Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Australia Gold
Peirano Estate Vineyards Peirano Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 USA Silver
Bodegas Pascual Toso Pascual Toso Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina Silver
Villa Saletta Villa Saletta Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Italy Silver
Viña Apaltagua Apaltagua Signature 2011 Chile Silver
Le Riche Wines Le Riche Reserve 2010 South Africa Silver
Trinchero Family Estates Trinchero Napa Valley Mario's Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA Silver
Pernod Ricard St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia Silver
Bird in Hand Bird in Hand Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Australia Bronze
El Porvenir de Cafayate Laborum Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina Bronze
Ernie Els Wines Ernie Els Proprietor's Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 South Africa Bronze
Viña Cobos Bramare Lujan de Cuyo Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Argentina Bronze
Miguel Torres Chile Manso de Velasco 2010 Chile Bronze
Gatt Wines Gatt Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Australia Bronze
Gatt Wines Gatt High Eden Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Australia Bronze
Oaked 100% Cabernet Sauvignon £30+
Miguel Torres Mas la Plana 2010 Spain Master
Jackson Family Wines Stonestreet Monument Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA Gold
Treasury Wine Estates Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia Gold
Santa Rita Estates Santa Rita Casa Real 2010 Chile Silver
Wakefield/Taylors Wines St Andrews Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia Silver
Bird in Hand Nest Egg Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia Silver
Wirra Wirra Wirra Wirra Dead Ringer Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Australia Silver
Viña Los Boldos Chateau Los Boldos,Vieilles Vignes, Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile Bronze
Hedges Family Estate Red Mountain, La Haute Cuvée 2012 USA Bronze
South Coast Winery South Coast Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA Bronze
Wakefield/Taylors Wines The Visionary Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia Bronze
Katnook Estate Katnook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Australia Bronze
Ste Michelle Wine Estates Conn Creek Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA Bronze
Santa Rita Estates Carmen Gold Reserva 2010 Chile Bronze
Bird in Hand Nest Egg Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Australia Bronze
Cobblestone Vineyards Cobblestone Vineyards Reserve Atlas Peak, Napa Valley 2007 USA Bronze
When made well,
Cabernet can more
than hold its own as a
single-varietal wine
50-57 Cab Sav masters CYgs_Layout 1 27/06/2014 16:08 Page 56
cabernet sauvignon masters
(L-R): Patrick Schmitt, editor of the drinks business, Hugo Rose MW of the Wine Investment Association, Vanessa Cinti of Cut at 45
Park Lane, Sebastian Payne MW of The Wine Society, Rebecca Palmer of Corney & Barrow, Mark Savage MW of Savage Selection,
Lucy Shaw, deputy editor of the drinks business, Justin Knock MW of Encirc and Demetri Walters MW of Berry Bros & Rudd.
The judges
50-57 Cab Sav masters CYgs_Layout 1 27/06/2014 16:08 Page 57

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Global cabernet sauvignon_masters_results-2014

  • 1. 50 KING OF the grapes An impressive cast of judges convened for the Global Cabernet Sauvignon Masters to put 200 wines through their paces. Lucy Shaw presents the results 50-57 Cab Sav masters CYgs_Layout 1 27/06/2014 16:07 Page 50
  • 2. howlers, thankfully,” quipped Payne. “Caberent Sauvignon proved that it is able to deliver value for money. Producers across the world are stepping up their game and the hit rate in the competition was very good,” added Hugo Rose MW of the Wine Investment Association. In terms of individual countries, judges praised Chile for its ability to deliver reliable and consistently high-quality Cabernet at an affordable price point. “You can find fantastic value in Chile, which has a lot to recommend it,” said Payne. “The consistency of the Chilean Cabs was a big surprise for me – the wines offered dark fruit and a creamy texture,” commented Vanessa Cinti, head sommelier of Wolfgang Puck’s debut London restaurant Cut at 45 Park Lane. While the US put in a consistent performance, it was Australia, and most notably Coonawarra, that got our judges’ pulses racing, with the inherent elegance of the wines from the Southern Australian region setting them apart. Australia also led the way in the gold medal tally, scooping five golds and a 51 In a crowded wine competition arena, the drinks business Global Cabernet Sauvignon Masters stands out for its assessment of wines purely by grape variety rather than region. Divided only by price bracket and, for ease of judging, whether the style was oaked or unoaked, the blind tasting format allowed wines to be assessed without prejudice about their country of origin. The wines were scored out of 100, with those gaining more than 95 points being awarded the top title of Master. Those earning more than 90 points were given a gold, those more than 85 points a silver, and those more than 80 points a bronze. The wines were judged by a stellar group of Masters of Wine on 8 May at Elysée restaurant in London’s Goodge Street. cabernet sauvignon masters 4 HAVING RECENTLY cemented its title as king of the grapes with the news that it has overtaken Spanish white variety Airén as the world’s most widely planted grape, no serious wine competition would be complete that didn’t put Cabernet Sauvignon under the microscope. According to a recent study form the University of Adelaide, since 1990, Cabernet Sauvignon has more than doubled its share of hectares under vine, though many may argue its heartland remains on Bordeaux’s Left Bank, where some of the world’s most highly prized wines are crafted from the grape, which is used to form the backbone of Bordeaux blends. However, this thick-skinned variety can thrive in an array of terroirs around the world, and can be found flourishing everywhere from Coonawarra and Margaret River in Australia to the Napa Valley in California and Chile’s Maipo Valley. The 17th century lovechild of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon is appreciated by grape growers for its naturally low-yielding, late-ripening nature and ability to add structure, colour and power to blends. In addition, the grape’s naturally high acidity and tannic structure mean wines made from Cabernet can be built to last. Given that it is planted in a plethora of pockets around the world, there is no cookie-cutter signature style for Cabernet, though many boast notes of blackcurrant, mint, eucalyptus, bell pepper and cedar, with cherry and olive notes present in cooler-climate Cabernets, and warmer Cabs often veering towards the jammier end of the flavour spectrum. Building on from the success of both the Chardonnay Masters and the Pinot Noir Masters, around 200 wines from nine countries were submitted to our inaugural Cabernet Sauvignon Masters, with judging taking place on 8 May at Elysée restaurant in central London. Served blind and assessed without prejudice about their country of origin, the wines were arranged according to their price band as well as style, from low price to high, and unoaked to oaked, in order to make the competition as fair as possible. Judged by a stellar panel of Masters of Wine, including Sebastian Payne MW of The Wine Society, Demetri Walters MW of Berry Bros & Rudd and Justin Knock MW of Encirc, the wines were scored out of 100, with those gaining more than 95 points being awarded the top title of Master. Those earning more than 90 points were given a gold, those more than 85 points a silver, and those more than 80 points a bronze. NEW ORDER The majority of entries for our Cabernet Sauvignon Masters came from the New World, with just one wine from Bordeaux taking part in the competition. While two- thirds of the wines were single-varietal Cabernet, the remainder were blends crafted from at least 75% Cabernet Sauvignon. During the tasting, the judges looked for balance, fine tannic structure, a bright fruit profile and a complex character, as well as a long finish. So how did the wines fare? Of the 200 wines that entered, 141 were medal- winners, with 83 walking away with a bronze, 41 awarded silver, 14 impressing enough for a gold and just three scooping the top accolade of a Master medal. “Cabernet is one of the great grapes of the world and you can see why it’s planted everywhere as it delivers on many different levels. We haven’t had too many Cabernet Sauvignon proved that it is able to deliver value for money. Producers across the world are stepping up their game About the competition 50-57 Cab Sav masters CYgs_Layout 1 27/06/2014 16:07 Page 51
  • 3. 52 Master for Katnook Founder’s Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2010. “Both Australia and Argentina are doing a very good job with Cabernet Sauvignon and are offering decent-quality examples for under £10. You can see the evolution the countries have undergone in recent years. The Australian wines were lovely and fresh with herbal and menthol notes,” said Cinti. Hot on Australia’s heels was Chile, which won four golds, followed by Argentina, which scooped two golds and a Master for Pascual Toso Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, with Spain picking up the third and final Master for Torres’ Mas La Plana 2010, which has been made from a 29-hectare vineyard in the northern Spanish region of Penedès since 1970. South Africa delivered a solid performance, earning two gold and three silver medals, while, somewhat surprisingly given its strong links to Cabernet, the US picked up only one gold medal for Jackson Family Wines Stonestreet Monument Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon 2010. QUESTION OF STYLE A debate arose around oak, with a number of judges lamenting the inability on the part of many producers to handle it properly. “While Cabernet has a natural affinity for oak, a lot of the wines were smothered and it wasn’t used judiciously, meaning the oak owned the wine rather than the other way around,” commented Berry Bros & Rudd’s Walters. Payne of The Wine Society concurred. “At the end of You can see the evolution the countries have undergone in recent years. The Australian wines were lovely and fresh with herbal and menthol notes cabernet sauvignon masters Medal winners: blends Company Wine Vintage Country Medal Unoaked blends under £10 Viña Canepa Novisimo Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile Bronze Oaked blends under £10 Constellation Brands Canada Clos du Bois North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 USA Silver Viña Maipo Vitral Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile Bronze Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile Bronze Viña Luis Felipe Edwards Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile Bronze Constellation Brands Canada The Dreaming Tree Cabernet Sauvignon North Coast 2012 USA Bronze Viña Canepa Finisimo Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile Bronze De Bortoli wines DB Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia Bronze Oaked blends £10-£20 Santa Rita Estates Santa Rita Medalla Real 2010 Chile Gold Chamlija Wines Chamlija Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Turkey Bronze Bisquertt Ecos de Rulo, Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile Bronze Viña Cobos Felino Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina Bronze Banfi Aska, Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2012 Italy Bronze Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile Bronze Ste Michelle Wine Estates Columbia Crest Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA Bronze Jackson Family Wines Kendall Jackson Vintner's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA Bronze Viña Maipo Gran Devoción Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah 2011 Chile Bronze Constellation Brands Canada Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA Bronze 4 50-57 Cab Sav masters CYgs_Layout 1 27/06/2014 16:07 Page 52
  • 4. 54 cabernet sauvignon masters Medal winners: blends (continued) Company Wine Vintage Country Medal Oaked blends £20-£30 Bodegas La Rosa Cientoquince CXV 2011 Argentina Gold MontGras Properties Montgras Ninquén 2010 Chile Silver Thompson Estate Thompson Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia Silver Castello di Amorosa Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA Silver Jackson Family Wines Kendall Jackson Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA Silver Ste Michelle Wine Estates Chateau Ste Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2012 USA Bronze Thompson Estate Thompson Estate Andrea 2010 Australia Bronze Treasury Wine Estates Beringer Knights Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA Bronze Oaked blends £30+ Voyager Estate Voyager Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2009 Australia Gold Ste Michelle Wine Estates Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Artemis Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA Silver Viña Canepa Magnifcvm 2011 Chile Silver Errázuriz Don Maximiano 2011 Chile Silver Jackson Family Wines Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA Silver Ste Michelle Wine Estates Col Solare 2010 USA Silver Constellation Brands Canada Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2008 USA Silver Ste Michelle Wine Estates Chateau Ste Michelle Indian Well Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 USA Bronze Cono Sur 20 Barrels Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile Bronze Ste Michelle Wine Estates Château Ste Michelle Cold Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA Bronze Jackson Family Wines Atalon Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA Bronze Viña Maipo Protegido 2010 Chile Bronze Errázuriz Don Maximiano 2010 Chile Bronze Ste Michelle Wine Estates Columbia Crest Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA Bronze Jackson Family Wines La Jota Vineyard Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA Bronze Cobblestone Vineyards Cobblestone Vineyards Reserve Atlas Peak, Napa Valley 2009 USA Bronze Medal winners: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon (under £10) Company Wine Vintage Country Medal Unoaked 100% Cabernet Sauvignon under £10 Rock N Roll Wines AB Kiss Monster Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA Bronze Blends Wine Estates UK Tomero Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina Bronze Oaked 100% Cabernet Sauvignon under £10 Bodegas La Rosa Finca La Escondida Reserve 2013 Argentina Gold Wakefield/Taylors Wines Promised Land Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Australia Gold Vina Terranoble Terranoble Reserva Terroir Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile Gold MP Wines Killka Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Argentina Silver Blaxland Wine Group Barton Steer Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Australia Silver Viña Mistamar Vistamar Sepia Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile Silver Barton & Guestier B&G Réserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 France Bronze MontGras Properties MontGras Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Chile Bronze Viña Luis Felipe Edwards Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Chile Bronze Trinchero Family Estates Sutter Home Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 USA Bronze RPB El Supremo Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina Bronze Bodegas Pascual Toso Pascual Toso Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Argentina Bronze Doolhof Wine Estate Signature Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 South Africa Bronze Rietvallei Wine Estate Rietvallei Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 South Africa Bronze 50-57 Cab Sav masters CYgs_Layout 1 27/06/2014 16:07 Page 54
  • 5. 55 cabernet sauvignon masters Medal winners: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon (£10-£20) Company Wine Vintage Country Medal Katnook Coonawarra Katnook Founder's Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia Master Bodegas Pascual Toso Pascual Toso Selected/Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Argentina Master Spier Wines Savanha Naledi Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 South Africa Gold Viña Terramater Terramater Altum Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Chile Gold Bodegas Pascual Toso Pascual Toso Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Argentina Silver KWV KWV The Mentors Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 South Africa Silver Hedges Family Estate House of Independent Producers, Sagemoor Vineyard, Columbia Valley 2012 USA Silver Angove Family Winemakers Vineyard Select Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Australia Silver Viña Siegel Single Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley 2012 Chile Silver Viña Valdivieso Valdivieso Single Valley Lot Cabernet Sauvignon, Rapel 2012 Chile Silver McManis FV McManis Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA Silver Pernod Ricard Jacob's Creek Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra 2012 Australia Silver Carolina Wine Brands Casablanca Nimbus Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile Silver Carolina Wine Brands Santa Carolina Reserva de Familia Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile Silver Viña Morandé Morandé Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile Silver Santa Rita Estates Nativa Gran Reserva 2011 2011 Chile Silver Miguel Torres Chile Cordillera Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile Silver Finca Monteflores Finca Monteflores Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Argentina Silver Viña Terramater Terramater Limited Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Chile Silver Namaqua Wines Spencer Bay Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 South Africa Silver Viña Los Boldos Momentos Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Chile Bronze Viña Los Boldos Chateau Los Boldos, Cuvée Tradition, Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Chile Bronze Distell First Cape Special Cuvée Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 South Africa Bronze Santa Rita Estates Doña Paula Estate 2012 Argentina Bronze Wakefield/Taylors Wines Jaraman Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Australia Bronze Viña Pérez Cruz Perez Cruz Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile Bronze MP Wines Salentein Primus Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina Bronze El Esteco Serie Finca Notables Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina Bronze Trinchero Family Estates Menage a Trois Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 USA Bronze Wakefield/Taylors Wines Wakefield/Taylors Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Australia Bronze Trinchero Family Estates Napa Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 USA Bronze Woodstock Wine Estate Woodstock Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Australia Bronze El Esteco El Esteco Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina Bronze Trinchero Family Estates Joel Gott Cabernet Sauvignon 815 2012 USA Bronze Spier Wines Spier 21 Gables Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 South Africa Bronze Bodega Norton Norton Winemaker Selection Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Argentina Bronze Trinchero Family Estates Folie a Deux Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA Bronze Carolina Wine Brands Santa Carolina Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile Bronze Viña Pérez Cruz Pircas de Liguai Cabernet Sauvignon Single Collection 2011 Chile Bronze La Motte Wine Estate La Motte Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile Bronze Viña Valdivieso Valdivieso Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo 2011 Chile Bronze Diemersfontein Woolworths Founder’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 South Africa Bronze Casarena Casarena Bodega y Viñedos 2011 Argentina Bronze Viña Terranoble Terranoble Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile Bronze Domingo Hermanos Finca De Domingo Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Argentina Bronze Langmeil Winery Langmeil Blacksmith Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia Bronze Cederberg Cederberg Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 South Africa Bronze Domaine Denois Cabernet Sauvignon La Bourdette 2010 France Bronze Casa Altamira SonVida Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Argentina Bronze Spain picked up a Master for the Torres Mas La Plana 2010, which has been made from a 29-hectare vineyard in the northern Spanish region of Penedès since 1970 4 50-57 Cab Sav masters CYgs_Layout 1 27/06/2014 16:08 Page 55
  • 6. more rounded and balanced with better palate weight and structure than the single varietals,” said Walters, to which Payne added: “As a single varietal, Cabernet Sauvignon rarely hits the high spots – it works better in blends. As a grape it does fantastically commercially and is hugely successful; the trick is to keep the freshness locked in.” Cinti, meanwhile, was more forgiving of the single varietals. “Some of them worked well – I think there is a space for them in the market. When made well, Cabernet can more than hold its own as a single-varietal wine,” she said. db 56 the day, you want to be able to drink the whole bottle, not just one glass, and some of the wines messed around with the oak a little too much and the alcohol levels were too high, but there is a market for those styles of wine,” he said. As to whether Cabernet performs better in a blend or as a solo act, the judges were unanimous on the former. “I’m not certain that Cabernet Sauvignon delivers varietal character under £10. What you tend to get is a lot of structure without the fruit balance. A few of the under-£10 wines worked, but the tannin often smothered the fruit. The blends were cabernet sauvignon masters Medal winners: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon (£20-£30 & £30+) Company Wine Vintage Country Medal Oaked 100% Cabernet Sauvignon £20-£30 Cono Sur Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile Gold Cederberg Cederberg Five Generations Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 South Africa Gold Bird in Hand Bird in Hand Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia Gold Treasury Wine Estates Wynns “Black Label” Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Australia Gold Peirano Estate Vineyards Peirano Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 USA Silver Bodegas Pascual Toso Pascual Toso Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina Silver Villa Saletta Villa Saletta Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Italy Silver Viña Apaltagua Apaltagua Signature 2011 Chile Silver Le Riche Wines Le Riche Reserve 2010 South Africa Silver Trinchero Family Estates Trinchero Napa Valley Mario's Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA Silver Pernod Ricard St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia Silver Bird in Hand Bird in Hand Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Australia Bronze El Porvenir de Cafayate Laborum Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina Bronze Ernie Els Wines Ernie Els Proprietor's Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 South Africa Bronze Viña Cobos Bramare Lujan de Cuyo Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Argentina Bronze Miguel Torres Chile Manso de Velasco 2010 Chile Bronze Gatt Wines Gatt Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Australia Bronze Gatt Wines Gatt High Eden Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Australia Bronze Oaked 100% Cabernet Sauvignon £30+ Miguel Torres Mas la Plana 2010 Spain Master Jackson Family Wines Stonestreet Monument Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA Gold Treasury Wine Estates Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia Gold Santa Rita Estates Santa Rita Casa Real 2010 Chile Silver Wakefield/Taylors Wines St Andrews Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia Silver Bird in Hand Nest Egg Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia Silver Wirra Wirra Wirra Wirra Dead Ringer Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Australia Silver Viña Los Boldos Chateau Los Boldos,Vieilles Vignes, Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile Bronze Hedges Family Estate Red Mountain, La Haute Cuvée 2012 USA Bronze South Coast Winery South Coast Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA Bronze Wakefield/Taylors Wines The Visionary Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia Bronze Katnook Estate Katnook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Australia Bronze Ste Michelle Wine Estates Conn Creek Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA Bronze Santa Rita Estates Carmen Gold Reserva 2010 Chile Bronze Bird in Hand Nest Egg Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Australia Bronze Cobblestone Vineyards Cobblestone Vineyards Reserve Atlas Peak, Napa Valley 2007 USA Bronze When made well, Cabernet can more than hold its own as a single-varietal wine 50-57 Cab Sav masters CYgs_Layout 1 27/06/2014 16:08 Page 56
  • 7. cabernet sauvignon masters (L-R): Patrick Schmitt, editor of the drinks business, Hugo Rose MW of the Wine Investment Association, Vanessa Cinti of Cut at 45 Park Lane, Sebastian Payne MW of The Wine Society, Rebecca Palmer of Corney & Barrow, Mark Savage MW of Savage Selection, Lucy Shaw, deputy editor of the drinks business, Justin Knock MW of Encirc and Demetri Walters MW of Berry Bros & Rudd. The judges 50-57 Cab Sav masters CYgs_Layout 1 27/06/2014 16:08 Page 57