This module is for the new comers ....they can understand well the standards of garments...classification of garments...about trims....how to measure...Quality checker role...job description...what is quality...how to control quality...etc

1. Trainer:
M. Aamir
QA Head

2.  Garments are one of the basic needs of the human
beings apart from food and shelter. Garments are also
known as dress, cloth, attire, or apparel. People wear
clothing for functional as well as for social reasons.

3. ◦ Women Wear
 Formal Wear
 Casual Wear
 Sports Wear
 Under Garment

8. ◦ Men’s Wear
 Formal Wear
 Casual Wear
 Sports Wear
 Under Garments

13. ◦ Kids Wear
 New Born Babies
 Infant Wear
 Toddlers Wear
 Under Garments

14.  Baby Just Born

15.  1 month to 1 year babies

16.  1 year to 3 years baby

18. ◦ HPS point
◦ LPS Point
◦ Shoulder
◦ Shoulder Drop
◦ Arm Hole
◦ Sleeve
◦ Chest
◦ Bottom
◦ Band
◦ Yoke

29. ◦ Thread
◦ Labels
◦ Lace
◦ Buttons
◦ Elastic
◦ Hook

36. ◦ Pattern terminology
 A pattern is a reference object for creating garment
parts in a manner such that there is minimum amount
of material wastage, least amount of seam and
stitching operations to facilitate mass production with
increased speed of fabrication.

37.  The process of increasing or decreasing the dimension of
the pattern it specific points according to certain grade
rules of proportional change.

38.  Seam allowance is the area between the edge and the
stitching line on two (or more) pieces of material being
stitched together. Seam Allowances can range from 1/4
inch wide (6.35 mm) to as much as several inch.
Commercial patterns for home sewers have seam
Allowances ranging from 1/4 inch to 5/8 inch.

39. ◦ Fulfilling needs which are defined for the product
◦ Quality is prevention
 Avoid doing things in a wrong way.
◦ Quality is customer satisfaction:
 Think that you are going to use the product, and work
towards making the product useful and satisfying for
you.

40. ◦ Good Eye
◦ Good color perception
◦ Ability to understand and classify defects
◦ Ability to get along with others
◦ Common Sense
◦ Reasonable knowledge of math

41. ◦ Quality is ultimately a question of customer satisfaction.
Good Quality increases- The value of a product or
service, establishes brand name, and builds up good
reputation for the garment exporting company.
◦ All these results to-
 Buyer satisfaction-
 The buyer is the most important person as he pays for the
products. He needs to be happy.
 Job security-
 If the company continues to satisfy the buyer, it will keep
getting orders regularly and the workers’ jobs will be secure.
 High sales-
 Good products sell out fast and profits can be earned.

42.  Measuring Tape
 For taking measurements in garments, generally fiber
made measuring tapes are used which have inch marks on
one side as well centimeter marks on the other side.

43.  For taking measurements in garments, generally fiber
made measuring tapes are used which have inch marks on
one side and inch as well centimeter marks on the other
side. A number of fraction namely; 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2
etc. are used in garment measurements. These fractions
are basically various divisions of the measuring tape in
inches. We can understand fractions by observing the
figure below. The figure indicates the various fractions of
an inch‖ of measurement.

45.  Hold the front of the tape at the point you wish to start the
measurement from, and extend it to the point where you
want to stop.

48.  Length from HPS
 Shoulder Seam to seam
 Chest 1” inch below arm hole
 Bottom edge to edge
 Sleeve Length from arm hole seam to sleeve edge

54. ◦ Responsible for doing inline inspections on all operations /
operators in a day.
◦ Responsible for generating all reports relating to inline
inspection.
◦ Responsible for ensuring that during inline inspection standard
quality specifications for each operation are being met at all the
operation points.
◦ Responsible for communicating any quality discrepancy during
inline inspection to the Quality Assurance Head and bringing the
same to the immediate notice of the Line In charge.

55.  Fabric Testing
◦ Shrinkage
◦ Color bleeding
◦ Rubbing test (wet crocking + dry crocking)
◦ Other Fabric Fault
 LCR
 Contamination
 Skew Ness
 Bowing
 Touching
 Cut Hole

64. ◦ Pattern
◦ Allover/Contineous cutting method
◦ Block/Mirror/Half Repeat Cutting Method
◦ Layering
◦ Tracing
◦ Cutter/shaper
◦ Bundling/Numbering

72. ◦ Trace Paper
◦ Pinning
◦ Placement
◦ Tracing
◦ Emb. Techniques
 Manual/Machine Emb
 Aar/Ari Emb
 Multi Head Emb

77.  Manual/Machine Emb
 Aar/Ari Emb
 Multi Head Emb

81. ◦ Spec Sheet + Original Sample
◦ PP sample with changes
◦ Meeting with tailor head
◦ Inline Inspection

82.  Spec should not be out as this issue frequently coming in cut panels, 1
panel is ok and 2nd is plus or minus like sleeves/slits/shoulders/armhole.
 Neck spec plus is very frequent issue.
 Stitching margin is plus as per required.
 Stitching notch (tukkay/cut points) missing, it should be carefully done on
every operation.
 Due to Fabric Issue cut panel are twisting, so proper press/stretch/ require
avoiding from this.
 Panel/block prints should be cut in center, as most of the articles in this
season are out of center.
 LCR should be manage accordingly, and panels should be cut side to side
or center to center, left, center and right should not be mix.
 Bundles are mixing due to following reasons
◦ Size mixing
◦ Shade mix
◦ Wrong number stickers

83. ◦ Label
◦ Should be in center
◦ Should not be miss
◦ Should not be wrong attach, size and quality wise
◦ Over lock
◦ Should not be miss
◦ Should be neat
◦ Should be on every possible panel
◦ Front neck slit/piping
◦ Should be even on both sides
◦ Should not be overlap
◦ Should not be slant
◦ Inner edge properly finish require with over lock or self folding

84. ◦ Alteration
◦ Stitching alter should be reduce
◦ Blind alter should be reduce
◦ Band
◦ Should not be uneven spec wise
◦ Shape should be accurate
◦ Button loops
◦ Should be equal size wise
◦ Should be according to button size
◦ Loop to loop distance should be equal
◦ Back neck depth
◦ loose thread Trim
◦ group to group working

85.  Improvement require regarding hand basting (Tarpai) as mentioned below
◦ Should be hidden
◦ Stitch (tanka) should be maximum of ½ cm
◦ End Stitch should be lock
◦ Lock Stitch (thoka) Miss
 Improvement require regarding Button Attachment as mentioned below
◦ Should not be loose
◦ Should not be slant
◦ Distance between button to button should be accurate
◦ Gently attach to avoid from puckering
 Improvement require regarding Hook Attachment as mentioned below
◦ Attachment should be neat,
◦ No thick knot req.
◦ No extra thread req.
◦ Placement should be accurate
◦ Both parts should be align

86.  Loose and uncut thread properly trim require
 Cut hole should properly amend (rafoo) req. and pieces should be
separate
 Improvement require regarding alteration as mentioned below
◦ Hand basting (tarpai)
◦ Button alteration
 Improvements regarding label require as mentioned below
◦ Should be in center
◦ Should not be miss
◦ Should not be wrong attach (size and quality wise)
 Improvements regarding wash require as mentioned below
◦ Stain should be remove
◦ Button marking (kahria/chalk) should be remove

111.  Have the proper approach toward operators.
◦ Approach operator with defective garment.
◦ Ask operator kindly to stop the work and pay attention.
◦ Explain defect found and ask if she understands why garment is
defective.
◦ Make sure operator understands why it is defective.
◦ Try to find out why the defect was created or why it was not detected at
the workstation.
◦ Restate the company‘s commitment to quality.
◦ Ask operator to inspect the current bundle for more defective parts and
then repair all parts that are out of tolerance including the one found
by the inspector. This should be done immediately.

112.  Train operators to sew with good quality from the beginning.
 Know quality specifications and tolerances.
 Be consistent in the decisions toward quality.
 Comment on both good and bad quality.
 Be sure to check each operator's work daily. The amount of defects found
should govern the amount of inspections performed. Vary inspection
times and inspection sequence. Check into middle of bundle. Do not
always look at only the top garments.

113.  SPI,s
◦ How to Measure Stitches per inch (SPI)
◦ SPI Recommendations for Woven Garments.
 Sewing Needles
◦ Anatomy Of Needle
◦ Types of Needles
◦ Needle Numbering System
 Sewing Thread
◦ Types of Thread
◦ Thread PLY
◦ Thread Count

114.  SPI – Stitches per Inch is an indicator of quality, strength and
durability. It is also referred to as the stitch density. It is
determined by the amount of fabric that goes under the
needle between penetrations. High SPI means short stitches,
low SPI means long stitches. High SPI are considered low
quality as they are weaker in resistance to abrasion and lets
the fabric spread when stress is applied to the seam.

115.  SPI is measured by counting the number of STITCH found
within one inch. As you can see here, there are approximately
9 SPI sewn in this seam in below picture for better
understanding.

116.  Below is a list of garments and the typical number of
Stitches per Inch recommended for each of them?
 Denim Jeans/Shirts/Skirts 7-8 SPI
 Twill Pant/Shorts 8-10 SPI
 Dress Pant 10-12 SPI
 Dress Shirts 14-20 SPI
 Casual Shirts 10-12 SPI

117. ◦ A sewing needle is a long slim tool with a pointed tip at one
end and a hole or eye at the other.
◦ The earliest needles were made of bone or wood; modern
ones are manufactured from high carbon steel wire and are
nickel- or 18K gold-plated for corrosion resistance.

118.  The key features of a standard machine needle are mentioned
below.

119.  Shank
◦ Top of needle that inserts into machine; most often has round front and
flat back, which seats needle in right position.
 Shaft
◦ Body of needle below shank. Shaft thickness determines needle size.
 Front groove
◦ Slit above needle eye, should be large enough to “cradle” thread for
smooth stitches.
 Point
◦ Needle tip that penetrates fabric to pass thread to bobbin-hook and
form stitch. Shape of point varies among needle types.
 Scarf
◦ Notch at back of needle. A long scarf helps eliminate skipped stitches by
allowing bobbin hook to loop thread easily.
 Eye
◦ Eye Hole in end of needle through which thread passes. Needle size and
type determine size and shape of eye.

120.  Ball Point
 Used for knitted fabrics, these points are thicker and more
rounded at the tip. They shift the yarns and pass through, avoiding
holes and fabric damages.

121.  Sharp Edge/ Universal
 The Sharp Edge/universal needle is both for knit and woven
articles most commonly used in industry and Local.

122.  Wedge Needle
 Used for leather/suede fabric, can cut through materials without
leaving a large hole behind.

123.  There are two number systems associated with sewing machine
needles:
 European System:
 European sizes range from 60 to 120, 60 being a fine needle and
120 being a thick heavy needle.
 American System:
 The American system uses 8 to 19, 8 being a fine needle and 19
being a thick heavy needle.

124.  Sewing Thread
 A long, thin fiber of cotton, nylon, or other fibers used in sewing or
weaving.
 Types of Thread
◦ Polyester
◦ Polyester/Cotton
◦ Nylon
◦ Rayon
◦ Cotton
◦ Wool

125.  Thread PLY
◦ Yarns with many components are twisted together to form ply thread.
Most commonly used are 2, 3 or 4 ply threads.
 Thread Count
◦ 10 Thick
◦ 20
◦ 30
◦ 40
◦ 50
◦ 60
◦ 70
◦ 80
◦ 90
◦ 100 Thin
 Currently in Nishat Linen we are using 50 count, 3 ply, and polyester
cotton (mix) thread.

126. THANK YOU ALL
WISH YOU GOOD LUCK FOR YOUR FUTURE