Organic cotton

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organic cotton
Introductions:
Environment issues; like air, sound, land and water pollution, global worming;
have got utmost importance globally. Since long, developed and industrial
countries have been trying every possible way to control and reduce
environment pollution. For last few years, developing and least developing
countries have showed their interest on environment issues. Control on
environment pollution means control over health hazards, diseases of human
beings, animals, and plants. Finally, safe planet for it’s creatures.
Textile and Clothing (T&C) sector is one of the biggest environment polluters in
industrial sectors. The textile industry is largely based upon the agriculture
system. We get cotton through agriculture system. Cotton is the most important
and extensively used raw material in T&C industry. It (cotton) provides almost
50% of the global fiber requirement. Cotton fibers are processed in textile
industry and eventually we get clothing that we wear.
When cotton is cultivated in traditional/conventional method, it pollutes
environment (soil, water and air pollution, soil erosion) and does harm to the
stakeholders (health risk for farmers, producer and consumers, killing animals
and plants). Because, fertilizers, pesticides, and insecticides are used in
conventional cotton cultivation extensively. According to statistics, the
conventional cotton crops occupies 3% of the world cultivated areas but it
represents 25% of pesticides and 10% of insecticides brought in the world. That
is why; cotton is the most pesticide-dependent crop (after corn and soybean
cultivation) in the world and one of the biggest environment polluters in
agriculture sector. Growing cotton accounts for 2.6% of the world’s yearly water
usage.
It is found that a basic T-shirt made of conventional cotton requires 1/4 pound
of harmful chemicals (pesticide, insecticide, processing chemicals, dyes,

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auxiliaries) while a jeans contains 1/3-pound harmful chemicals. That means if
someone simply wears a jeans and a T-shirt, s/he wears more than half a
pound of chemicals. As per Seasalt (Organic clothing company), as many as
8000 chemicals can be used in the process of turning cotton into a T-shirt. To
grow the fiber for a man’s dress shirt requires 414.5 gallons (1570litre) of
water.
Conventional cotton cultivation is taking toll on our environment and human
health as a whole. But there is one best method to cultivate cotton, which
dramatically delivers best quality cotton while respecting the environment and
human beings- organic agriculture (organic cotton cultivation). OC is grown
using methods and materials that have a low impact on the environment. OC is
also well known as Bio-Cotton. Consumers to buy textile products made of OC
by considering few points like ethical & moral issues (i.e. environment
protection, sustainable development) and consciousness (health hazards).
Disasters brought by Traditional Cotton Cultivation:
The World Health Organization (WHO) estimates that 20,000 deaths occur in
developing countries each from the poisoning by agriculture pesticides used on
crops, of which many, due to their relative toxicity, can be attributed to cotton.
Information disclosed by Soil Association, in Benin in West Africa, 24 people
died due to poisoning from cotton pesticides in 2000. According to Organic
Trade Association (OTA), in 1999, a work crew (a group of people) re-entered a
cotton field about 5 hours after it was treated with tribufos and sodium chlorate
(re-entry should have been prohibited for 24 hours). 7 among them
subsequently sought medical treatment and 5 have had ongoing health
problems.

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What is organic cotton?
Organic cotton is grown using methods and materials that have a low impact on the
environment. Organic production systems replenish and maintain soil fertility, reduce the use of
toxic and persistent pesticides and fertilizers, and build biologically diverse agriculture. Third-
party certification organizations verify that organic producers use only methods and materials
allowed in organic production. Organic cotton is grown without the use of toxic and persistent
pesticides and synthetic fertilizers. In addition, federal regulations prohibit the use of genetically
engineered seed for organic farming. All cotton sold as organic in the United States must meet
strict federal regulations covering how the cotton is grown.
How much organic cotton is grown globally?
According to the 2011 Textile Exchange Organic Cotton Farm & Fiber Report, approximately
151,079 metric tons (MT) of organic cotton (693,900 bales) were grown on 324,577 hectares
(802,047 acres) in 2010-2011. Organic cotton now equals 0.7 percent of global cotton
production.
Organic cotton was grown in 20 countries worldwide in 2010-11, led by India, and including (in
order of rank): Syria, China, Turkey, United States, Tanzania, Egypt, Mali, Kyrgyzstan, Peru,
Pakistan, Uganda, Burkina Faso, Benin, Paraguay, Israel, Tajikistan, Brazil, Nicaragua, and
Senegal. Approximately 219,000 farmers grew the fiber.

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What is the value of the global organic cotton market?
According to a report by Textile Exchange 2010 Global Market Report on Sustainable
Textiles, global sales of organic cotton apparel and home textile products reached an
estimated $5.16 billion in 2010. This reflects a 20 percent increase from the 2009
market. Companies reported significant growth in their organic cotton programs, and
increased adoption of standards. Approximately 219,000 farmers grew the fiber.
How is the apparel industry involved with organic cotton?
Apparel companies are developing programs that either use 100 percent organically
grown cotton, or blend small percentages of organic cotton with conventional cotton in
their products. There are a number of companies driving the expanded use of domestic
and international organic cotton. For a current list of OTA members with products
containing organic fiber.
How fast is the organic fiber market growing?
In 2011, organic fiber sales in the United States grew by 17.1 percent over the previous year, to
reach $708 million, according to the Organic Trade Association’s 2012 Organic Industry Survey.
The future looks promising, with organic fiber products appearing in more mainstream outlets,
led by large and small U.S. textile retailers alike.[2]
History of Organic Farming:
Before 1900’s farming was organic, as the farmers didn’t have knowledge on
chemical and its utilization. But after 1900, chemicals got utilization as urea and
DDT (Dichloro-diphenyl-trichloroethane). Urea is nitrogen-release fertilizer and
DDT is an organochlorine pesticide that has been used as an insecticide in
agriculture and to combat insect vectors of diseases such as malaria and

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typhus. During 1960’s and 1970’s the concept of organic food became a
separate entity to the ‘normal’/conventional food.
According to Datamonitor, a world-leading provider of premium global business
information, the global organic food market was about USD 36.7 billion in 2006,
USD 43.5 billion in 2007 and USD 52 billion in 2008. On average the market
growth of organic food is about 20%.
According to Organic Exchange (OE), a non-profit organization, global OC
apparel and home textile products market was about $3.2 billion in 2008, which
represent a 68% increase from the $1.9 billion market in 2007. It is estimated
$4 billion market in 2009 and a $5.3 billion market in 2010. The amount of OC
farmers grew worldwide in 2007/08 increased 152 percent.
Organic Farming:
According to Agriculture and Rural Development, European Commission,
Organic farming is the form of agriculture that relies on crops rotation, green
manure, compost, biological pest control, and mechanical cultivation, etc., to
maintain soil productivity and control pests, excluding or strictly limiting the use
of synthetic fertilizers and synthetic pesticides, and genetically modified
organisms (GMO).

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Similarly OC means the cotton that is grown without using chemical
fertilizers, pesticides, insecticides, and GMO seeds. In conventional cotton
production GMO seeds are harvested which are treated with fungicides or
insecticides, applies synthetic fertilizers and herbicide, and requires intensive
irrigation. On the contrary, in OC cultivation, untreated seeds are used, instead
of fertilizers, crops rotation are done to build suitable soil, physical efforts are
applied to inhibits weed germination, mixture of chillies, garlic and soap are
used to deter pests without destroying their predators.
According to Hierarchy of Pollution Control, growing OC belongs to the ‘Pollution
Prevention’ (also known as source reduction), which is the act of eliminating the
pollutant before it is generated.
Cotton Production in Bangladesh:
Cotton production in Bangladesh was 7705 tones in fiscal year 2007-08. Next
fiscal year of 2008-09 cotton production increase about 19.5% to 9200 tones. It
is forecasted for the year of 2009-10 cotton production 9500 tones while cotton
consumption in the same year forecasted 669,500tones. It means that
Bangladesh produces only 1.42% of its total demand of cotton.
In the year of 2008-09 total 32,600 hectares areas were harvested for 9200
tones of cotton production in Bangladesh. People Tree, an ecological clothing
label, which is certified by the Soil Association and Fairtrade Foundation, has

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launched a campaign to boost the preparation of cotton grown organically from
0.6 to 10% by 2010.
As a part of promotion of growing OC, People Tree is working to convert
conventional cotton cultivation into OC cultivation. People Tree started pilot
projects at Waster Concern in Bogra district and Swallows in Thanapara. To get
trained agriculturalists in the projects, the organization had sent human
resources to Agrocel in India. These pilot projects have been successful,
resulting good fiber length organic cotton (length same as Indian organic
cotton) production. Bangladesh Cotton Development Board and Mohipur
Agriculture Training Institute (MATI) played active roles as well. Experts’
opinioned Bangladeshi climate is quite suitable to produce OC. Experts
confirmed that cultivating OC is beneficial to our farmers because farmers could
get higher price of organic cotton than that of traditional cotton while organic
cotton production is lower due to no use of fertilizers, pesticides and
insecticides.
Advantages of Organic Cotton:
Fig: Fish Diagram showing advantages of OC

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Developing OC cultivation in Bangladesh through Adoption and
Diffusion Process:
Adoption and Diffusion is well-known process/theory concerning the spread of
new innovation, ideas or technology in a community. Adoption process is,
simply, the acceptation of innovation/ideas and Diffusion is a process by which
the spread of a new idea (innovation) from its source of innovation or creation
to its ultimate users or adopters.
Understanding diffusion and adoption processes are crucial for growing
awareness about OC and its prospects and potential in agriculture society and
for the country. Applying this process is essential in spreading OC concepts and
its stronger acceptance in concern societies. In most cases, success came in
sociology, political science, civics, marketing, management, public health,
communications, economics, education, and technology, by applying this
Adoption and Diffusion Theory.
The acceptance and spread of OC are not up to the mark, as expected by the
global promoters of OC concept. The reasons of the failure can be summarized
as: government’s intervention through subsidized price of high yield seeds,
pesticides and fertilizers while buying organic seed in higher cost; lack of
regular training, motivation, supports from promoters; need for improved policy
and lobbying; lack of effective market communication and costly OC
certification; few vendors for OC; little that has known experimentally about
growing and processing of OC; and, long list of quality and technical issues.
International Organizations for OC Program Development:
International organizations; namely Organic Exchange, Fair Trade Foundation,
Institute for Marketecology (IMO), Soil Association, Oxfam, Control Union
(formerly known ‘SKAL’, EcoCert; have developed new information, tools, and
business models for helping countries/companies develop and implement OC
programs. Well-known agency in the world ‘ECOCERT’ is responsible for

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inspecting its conformity with the following standards: Ecocert Fair Trade
Standards, EC 2092/91 Standards (European Standards), USDA NOP Standards
(American Standards), JAS Standards (Japanese Standards) while another well-
known agency ‘SKAL’/Control Union is responsible for EC 2092/91 standards
and USDA NOP standards. Only fiber certifications are ‘OE 100 Organic
Standard’ and ‘OE Blended Standard’ while full product certification is done
under ‘Global Organic Textile Standard’ (GTOS).
Conclusion:
Organic raised cotton is gradually winning over new ground both on the farm
and in the market places by crossing barriers like awareness, negative
perception, distrust, availability and price. Consumers’ desire for ethical
products is the principal force for offering organic cotton products. I believe that
organic cotton is the best for clothing for environmental and humanitarian
reasons and especially best for a child’s sensitive skin. Wearing non-organic
cotton has not been proven to be directly bad for our health but growing non-
organic cotton has serious impact on environment, and on those who farm the
raw materials. At this moment, organic cotton is considered only for niche
market demand and products, but as the awareness is increasing on
environment protection and therefore for organic cotton, within short time may
capture main market. I believe that government; private sector and producer
associations each have necessary roles to play in promoting and facilitating
cultivation or organic cotton and its marketability. They should develop supply
chain relationship all the way back to the farmers, empower small-scale
farmers, train and educate farmers. They should also create the supply chain of
OC (raw cotton to final cotton products) with ‘Pull Strategy’ while present supply
chain is based on ‘Push Strategy’. It is very easy for Bangladesh to become
100% organic cotton producing country as we cultivate very lower amount of
cotton.[1]

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References:
[1].Bangladesh Cotton and Products Annual (GAIN Report Nr. BG9007)
Article: Eco-labelling Applications in the Textile and Apparel Sector in Turkey by
TuranAtilgan
http://ec.europa.eu/agriculture/organic/home_en
http://www.organicexchange.org/Documents/08_annual.pdf
www.ota.com/organic/environment/cotton_environment.html
www.ota.com
www.imo.ch
www.coral.rose.typepad.com
Rogers, E. M.(2003).Diffusion of innovations.
Organic Exchange. (2008). Organic cotton market
report. www.organicexchange.org
PAN Germany.(2007). Organic cotton—background information.
http://www.pan-germany.net/baumwolle/en/index.htm
[2].https://organiccottonplus.com/pages/learning-center